Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, July 21
2003 Volume 02 : Number 208
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Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 18:33:31 -0700 (PDT)
From:
g2write@newsguy.comSubject: Team3S:
Removing front wheel drive transmission
I am trying to remove the transmission and engine from a '92 stealth, front
wheel drive. Is it easier to remove both at once or one at a time?
Also, am I correct in assuming that I need to pull both front axels? Any
help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Gary
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2003 22:42:16 -0700
From: "Ioan Raicu" <
iraicu@cs.wayne.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: clutch pedal has no pressure
Hello again,
My saga of problems continues, there is something about CA that seems to
cause my car to break down more often than when I am in MI or IL :(
Everything worked fine, I stop at a red light, and when I take off, the
clutch feels weird, as if it is not coming back up as much as it used to after
you release the clutch, but it still worked, and I could get it in gear
normal. I pull in the first parking lot I find (50 yards away), and when I
get in the parking lot, I start pumping the clutch pedal to see if it will
return to normal. About 15 seconds after I started pumping the pedal, I
lost all pressure, completely gone, it feels like there is no pedal at all,
although there is still a spring that causes it to return back to its normal
position. You might also imagine that since I have no more clutch
pressure, I also cannot put the car in gear, none of them. It was dark, so
I could not check too many things, but I did put my hand trying to feel my way
around the clutch pedal, and I found the mechanisms around the pedal to be dirty
of oil.
Most likely, one of the clutch cylinders (master/slave) was leaking, and it
just gave up, but I don't understand how could it happen so drastically and
quick, in a matter of 60 seconds, it went from normal to no pressure at
all. If one of these cylinders is leaking and I fill up the clutch
reservoir with fluid (Motul 600 break fluid), will it work temporarily to at
least drive it to a mechanic, or what can I do to avoid towing the car. Is
this something that is relatively easy to replace? I am not mechanically
inclined, but I have a few tools, and I managed to change my own plugs in 3 1/2
hours, all by myself, and it was the first time I ever did it.
Anything else that anyone can think of that could cause such a failure as
the one I described? Thanks in advance for any help as always.
John Raicu
94 Yellow TT
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 01:34:40 -0500
From: "Nick McDermott" <
eire1274@cox.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
clutch pedal has no pressure
I would imagine that, like most hydraulic systems, the clutch cylinders on
our cars may continue to exhibit "normal" operation while a small amount of
fluid is being lost with each compression... not necessarily enough to
depressurize the system and cause failure. This would have to be a small
leak that could still retain MOST of the pressurized brake fluid.
Once the fluid had exhausted its level, the rebound (depressurizing) would
draw in air, and the next compressions would rapidly get worse and worse as you
blew out the remaining fluid under pressure and drew in more air.
The rear brakes on my Pontiac did this when a fitting on the new brake
master cylinder I had installed wriggled out a touch because I had not torqued
it down properly. I went from great balanced braking one stop to nose
forward and tires squealing in a panicked attempt to avoid a Lexus SUV at the
next, with nary a drop of brake fluid spilled in the engine bay prior to
this. When the problem occurred I popped the hood and fluid was all over
the driver's wheel well. This took place after about 10 minutes of
driving, and the rear reservoir was depleted.
Nick
93 VR-4 (and one old Pontiac everyone's tired of hearing
about)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 08:36:05 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: weird throttle behavior
Happened to me.
------------------------------
I have been trying for two days now to remove the fuel
line from the
fuel pump- or the plate on top of it. I have
tried everything- including
soaking the nut with wd40 and
the sucker will not budge- I am afraid of
damaging the
part that comes off the top of the plate where the fuel
pump is.
My fuel pump makes a load popping noise when I first turn
the ignition
to on. I am making the assumption that it
needs to be replaced. The car will
no longer start either.
Anyone have a suggestion as to how to remove the fuel line
without
breaking something?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 10:22:49 -0400
From: Bill Ma <
BillMa@FLAGCOMM.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Fuel Line- Near Tank
I had the same problem and ended up removing the line further downstream.
If you look under the car on the passenger side you will see another
connection.
Bill
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 10:19:53 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: clutch pedal has no pressure
Geez... get the throttle clear, now this huh. It sounds that you
emptied the reservoir, so you drew in air and it just got worse and worse.
Put some fluid in it will help, but you'll need to bleed it too. That
takes 2 ppl, some tubing and a small bottle (to catch fluid), and a 10mm
wrench. Check Jeff's page for more details on clutch bleeding. I
don't know if you'll get far without doing that. And if there's fluid
leaking onto the pedal, you have a leaky master. $78 with your discount,
and the labor is quite challenging (coming from a pro) so you may want to have
the dealer do it. Good luck keep us posted!
Ken Stanton
91 Pearl White Stealth TT
with 3 week old clutch master
cylinder
------------------------------
WD 40 is not the best penetrating lubricant known to man. You can get
some stuff called "penetrating oil" that is used by machine shops at any Auto
Parts Store. You put that stuff on it and let it sit overnight.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 11:29:28 -0400
From: Bill Ma <
BillMa@FLAGCOMM.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Fuel Line- Near Tank
I use something called PB Blaster. I love it.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 15:50:35 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fuel Line- Near Tank
>> Anyone have a suggestion as to how to remove the fuel line
without
>> breaking something?
As others have mentioned, try a different penetrating oil. I like Kano's
Aerokroil,
http://www.kanolabs.com . It
worked in like 1 minute to loosen the fitting you are referring to on an old NT
fuel pump I have (off the car). Or try the fitting at the other end of the hose
(apply Aerokroil first). Tips on my web page below.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 13:11:13 -0700
From: "Paul T Kempkes" <
fretless@twcny.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: drive shaft, ball joints, control arms.
Friends:
I've got a 94 Stealth TT, need some
information. Symptoms are a mild
clunk noise when you let out the
clutch (unless I'm REAL smooth with the clutch), and on rough pavement the car
wanders sometimes hard left,
sometimes hard right.. Straight as
an arrow on smooth pavement. Here's
what the estimate said:
front lower ball joints + control arms rear bushings loose and worn. front
drive shaft u-joints stiff + front carrier bearings worn.
I've been told that in order to replace the u-joints and carrier bearings,
you have to replace the whole drive shaft. Big money. Is this true,
or can new u-joints be pressed into an old shaft (buy rebuilt, with swap for
the
old core). Also, I've been told that the ball joints can't be
replaced
without replacing the whole control arm w/joints, which comes with
rear bushings. Accurate, or are there other options? What other
questions
should I be asking? Thanks much.
Drive fast, take chances.
Paul Kempkes
------------------------------
How many miles?
The clunk is consistent with a drive shaft u-joint problem, but what about
motor mounts? How old is the clutch? If it was replaced was the flywheel
resurfaced?
The wandering on rough pavement is consistent with ball joint and control
arm bushing problems, but could also be bad front wheel bearings, a common
problem at about 70K-80K miles.
Jim Floyd could comment on the ball joint/control arm bushing thing - I
believe he had this replaced after Heartland Park a couple of years back.
If you don't believe the mechanic, take it to another shop.
You should be able to get a used driveshaft from M&S recycling and
other places, if it comes to that.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 10:58:57 -0700
From: "Mosher, David" <
dmosher@ea.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
drive shaft, ball joints, control arms.
Hey guys,
I also had my drive shaft go south because of the u-joint bearing
failing. I purchased a used drive shaft from M&S but it also had the
same problem. As we are all aware Mitsubishi was careful to design the drive
shaft so that the bearings could not be replaced except for the support
bearings. I like most was shocked to find that they wanted 1300 plus for
the Drive shaft complete! My mechanic suggested that we could drill out
the old bearings and mount universal joints in there place.
We then had to
balance the shaft but no big deal.
So far I have not had any problems with my dive shaft and if I do
it
costs me less than 20 bucks to replace a universal.
Any way just a thought if money is tight; by the way I think it cost me
about 400 dollars to have the mod done to my drive shaft.
David Mosher
92 White Pearl VR4 203K No Mods "and it still puts a
smile on my face".
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 20:03:25 +0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: battery drain / charging system problem
Thanks for all the suggestions. I let the car sit overnight
with the alarm OFF (i.e.-doors unlocked) and the battery still discharged.
Next I started pulling fuses in the engine compartment to see if any would
reduce the current shown on my multimeter. Most had no effect, but when I
pulled the big one in the middle of the left side (BAT 40A), the reading went
down significantly (but not to zero). Then I attacked the ones on an angle
(ABS 60 and ALT 120). They LOOKED the same as the other big ones, but
after prying them out I realized that they were bolted in from underneath
somehow (why?), and I managed to break both of them. Now my meter measures
zero, and I'm completely out of commission (guess I'm gonna have to get the
radio code this time!).
Where can I get fuses like that? I've never seen that type
before. And it looks like a real PITA to get at the bolts holding them in
from the bottom. I'm still hoping the alternator is to blame for both lack of
charging and excessive draw when the car is off (I have one on order along with
the rest of my 60k service parts), though the alternator light on my dash is not
illuminated...
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 15:16:17 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt D" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: drive shaft, ball joints, control arms.
Nice move David. First I've heard of someone breaking through the insanity
on this.
Skyrider
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 15:48:55 -0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Team3S: I want to install a functional wing in the back...
I want to install a functional wing in the back. It must be functional but
not ricey. I have a Stealth and I have seen only 1 or 2 wings that looked more
or less normal on a Stealth. Everything else looked like an adaptation from
another car.
Why I want a wing? It will ensure that I have good traction and some
understeer going at 200 MPH. :-)
I like the factory wing but I don't have a deep emotional attachment
to it. I am tempted to lift the stock wind on longer pedestals to expose it to
the air flow. I just wonder if I would get more downforce or more drag.
:-)
If there is a wing out there that someone knows of that is functional and
looks kinda normal on a Stealth, please let me know.
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 15:50:58 -0400
From: Marc Jaffe <
marc@marcjaffe.com>
Subject: Team3S:
4 out of 6 cylinders shot! 95 VR4 121K miles
Ok I have big problems...
I picked up my car from the body shop after major front end damage...all
new right up to the weld in the fenders over the wheels. They replaced the fuse
box and opened and re-closed who knows what...
Less then 2000 miles later after passing a truck last week and letting the
car slow down thru engine braking instead of an up shift the card died
hard...
4 out of the 6 cylinders are dead and there is extensive damage in both top
and bottom ends...
One of the spark plugs has a bent electrode and they have no clue currently
what caused it without a $1500 teardown..
They think something was sucked in.
What did this? Do you think the body shop left something loose ?
I am not in a position to replace this engine and prior to this allstate
had it at $16K book value.
BTW it is in Westchester, NY if someone wants to make an offer
Thanx Marc
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 13:06:12 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
battery drain / charging system problem
Way to go Jim --- I did the same thing to the ABS fusible link [ as you
know now they're not fuses ]. My ABS pump kept running after I shut the car off.
They are fairly common but you may have to go to the dealer --- my
son-in-law got me one from the Ford dealer where he works.
The ABS
fusible link was easy to replace the bolts were very accessible.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Well, my rear valve cover did not sell on eBay, so I am offering it a last
time to list members.
It was from a 1997 DOHC VR-4 and is really clean. I paid about $35
for this with shipping when I bought the replacement. So I am just looking to
get my money back at this point.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 14:23:47 -0600
From: "Gabe Simoes" <
gabe92rttt@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: I want to install a functional wing in the back...
First off are your FWD or AWD? Either way, a "functional" wing won't
be that functional in either application. Totally pointless in a
FWD. The only functional wings that I know of are the stock VR-4
wings. A veilside wing would be functional I am sure....it better be for
that price.
Gabe
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 16:30:46 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@spamcop.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 4 out of 6 cylinders shot! 95 VR4 121K miles
Marc - the driver for whom I pit crew had this occur to his race car.
All was well through the weekend but pulling it onto the trailer Sunday night
there was some noise (rod knock, etc.). There was foreign matter in the
combustion chamber (hardened gear teeth) which could not have gotten there
automatically. Also, if your car was running for 2,000 miles then it was
not in there or would have caused problems earlier so rule out that they left in
something from the shop.
However, if the engine jumps timing then the interference engine runs the
pistons right into the valves or spark plugs if they are gapped too big or too
long or something. Have a reputable place check the tension on the timing
belt because if that got loose then that starts the vicious cycle.
So I don't think there was a loose thing left in there but would point
toward the timing belt, timing belt tensioner, valve spring, or valve. A
spring could have broke thus letting the valve drop down in but usually one
thing leads to another sometimes. Sorry and best of luck.
- --Flash!
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 13:50:12 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Who made the Line-Out Stereo harness?
I remember seeing someone post here about a month or two ago, that said
they had successfully created a wiring harness mod that gave the stock stereo an
RCA Line-Out.
Whoever that was, please email me off list.
Thanks,
- -Erik
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 13:23:58 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
3S-Racers: I want to install a functional wing in the back...
I think you're going to find that a true race wing looks like a race wing.
If you want an additional 300# of downforce you're going to have to go with the
aluminum/carbon fiber adjustable wing. We also need a splitter on the front so
when you make the wing make sure you make a matching splitter. Without a wind
tunnel it's a little
difficult to determine how effective your wing is. I
saw some Porches in one of the race series that had the wing 3 feet in the air
to get good air flow over the wing --- looked dumb but racer types are looking
for speed.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2003 17:30:19 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt D" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 4 out of 6 cylinders shot! 95 VR4 121K miles
With a bunch of cylinders going at once it seems more likely a timing belt
problem
than FOD. Not something I've thought about, but perhaps the belt
does 'go loose' on hard engine deceleration, which could cause it to skip teeth.
If that becomes the final diagnosis, then it's worth a post back here
to
forewarn others. I use engine braking a lot, and have never given it
a
2nd thought.
Kurt
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#208
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