Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, July 18
2003 Volume 02 : Number 206
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The ROWGs from Cedar Rapids will be running at Midamerica Motorplex in
Council Bluffs, Iowa on Tuesday, August 12.
This is a first class road course, and you get to run all the laps you can
stand for $50.
All you 3000GT/Stealth people in KC, St Louis, Iowa, SD, and similar parts
are invited to join us. We usually have 10-20 cars, divided into two
groups:
rookies and racers. The racers ride with and instruct the rookies. We are
definitely not an organized group, but we have a great time.
You will NEVER in your life ever get to run on a road course like this for
$50. We get there at 9:00 a.m. and have the track all to ourselves until 3:00
p.m., when the locals start showing up. If you can want, you can continue to run
until 9 or 10 pm, when they shut the track down for darkness. You could run 150
laps if you really wanted to.
Our little group consists of about 3-5 3000GT/Stealths, plus a Talon, Z06,
M3, Miata, 2-3 Camaros (including Beluga, the great white whale), S2000, 5.0
Mustang, TT Porsche, 850i BMW, and so on. We caravan over on Monday from Cedar
Rapids, and run on Tuesdays.
Let me know if you are interested. We'll add your name to the email list,
so you'll be kept up to date on the hotel accommodations and so on.
Rich/slow old poop
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Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 07:32:09 +0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: battery drain / charging system problem
Last night I charged the battery and it read 12.8 VDC. This morning
it reads 12.4 VDC. Doesn't the ignition kill nearly all circuits?
That should narrow things down a bit...
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 07:58:45 -0700
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
battery drain / charging system problem
Does your car have an alarm? I don't know how much it drains, but that's
definitely one system that's not killed by the ignition. This is assuming you
charged the battery and put it back into the car. Is that the case?
Alex
'95 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 08:03:34 -0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <
privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: battery drain / charging system problem
Do the red top batteries have a lower full charged state then the old
flooded lead-acid types? Must ALL of the older types read ~13.5 volts or so
fully charged, I've tested hundreds of them.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 16:33:24 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: battery drain / charging system problem
Pete,
What type of batteries are you testing? How are you testing them?
The state of charge of flooded lead-acid batteries is usually determined by
measuring the specific gravity of the electrolyte.
For flooded lead-acid batteries, Bill shows the following states of charge
for various specific gravities (see his "testing" web page).
Charge SpGr volts
100% 1.265 12.65
75% 1.225
12.45
50% 1.190 12.24
25% 1.155 12.06
0% 1.120 11.89
Actually, SLA batteries have a bit larger range than flooded lead-acid
batteries with ~12.84 volts at 100% charge and ~11.58 v at 0% charge
(discharged) - this is open-circuit voltage (OCV) measured after no charge or
load has been placed on the battery for 24 hours.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 13:10:22 -0400
From: Jim Smith <
jhsmith@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Fuse Block Problems
Okay guys, I've got a problem that I've never heard of before. 1992
stealth/SOHC 115000 miles Overall condition of car is 8.5 out of 10 All except
the fuseblock under the dash. I had trouble with the wipers not working, I found
the fuse was loose in
the socket. Reason, the socket has broken on the
inside. There is a
clip the holds the fuse inside under pressure, that
clip has broken off.
I did a temp fix on this Sunday. Wednesday, the fan motor stopped
working. I went to the fuseblock to check for a blown 30 amp fuse and
guess what I found, the exact same thing happened to this fuse too.
However because of the higher current, the fuse was making then breaking
from the socket causing an overheating problem. This started to melt
the fuseblock. I found the problem before this got too serious, but I
don't trust the fuseblock anymore.
Has anyone ever had or seen this problem before?
Secondly, can the fuseblock be replaced without replacing the miles of
wiring/wiring harnesses?
Third, if this can be accomplished, how much of the dash has to be
removed to get the fuseblock out?
Thanks!
Jim Smith
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 14:03:36 -0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Leaking Oil Cooler line. Recall??
Don't know about a recall but I just replaced my both lines that rusted
trough. I got a used oil cooler lines for $25 plus shipping from a guy on
3Si.org who parted out his car.
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 13:15:24 -0500
From: Jon Paine <
ppainej@attglobal.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fuse Block Problems
Someone had problems with a bad connection at a fuse causing melting of
the fuse and/or fuse block. I expect it can happen in any type of blade
contact where the contact may corrode/loosen/get dirty over time.
The fuse block is a completely separate component. All the connections
to it are through conventional push in/snap in connectors. It can't be
disassembled for service though. Take my word for it...
It's removable without removing the dash. Only the lower dash panel has
to be taken out, but you need to be pretty limber (long fingers help).
IIRC, there is only one bolt at the bottom holding it in, the top is
just clipped in place.
All the connectors are keyed and will only go into the proper
location.
Jon
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 11:17:54 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: battery drain / charging system problem
The 12.8 was probably a temporary reading until the battery stabilized at
it's proper voltage of 12.1 to 12.5 (but 11.8 to 12.8 are not necessarily
abnormal readings). Battery *charging* circuits in all 12v (nominal) cars
charge at 14 volts, with a healthy range being between 13.8 and 14.2. (I
think I said this backwards the other day, in haste...). With the engine
running and revving slightly, you should read ~13.8 to 14.2 at the battery
terminals. With the engine off and neg terminal disconnected, you a should
read 12.1 to 12.5. Write down the exact number. Reconnect the terminal,
and if you see a lower voltage, that indicates a battery drain problem which
could be an exposed hot wire or corroded wire draining to ground. (If it's
an infinitesimally slight difference, that's probably just the clock).
---Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 12:26:53 -0700
From: "Andy" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: battery drain / charging system problem
I have just finished with an extensive alarm project so this may
help. With the key out and the car just sitting there, the alarm keeps
current running through a relay that controls the starter solenoid. The
normal amperage through this relay is about 70 milliamps. That is not too
much, but it definitely puts a drain on a good battery. The alarm itself is
usually solid state and draw a lot less than the relay. I did not measure mine
and don't know what it is. My guess is that the alarm and the relay total about
1/10th of an amp. Again, not much, but enough to drain a good battery over the
course of a week or two. Hope this helps.
Andy
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 16:33:27 -0400
From: Mark Frouhar <
mfrouhar@bear.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Leaking Oil Cooler line. Recall??
I haven't found any information suggesting there was a recall on this, not
sure where that DSM guy got his info from. I got the lines in from Mitsu
direct a few days ago and I'm going to tear it down today. The cooler
didn't look suspect so I'm not changing that for the moment.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 19:24:14 -0400
From: "Christopher Gerard" <
c.w.gerard@worldnet.att.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Pwr/Eco switch--Engine affected?
I have a question about the Pwr/Eco switch on my Automatic 91 Stealth DOHC
ES. I once asked the dealership exactly what it did and they said it has
something to do with the throttle. I also saw a site online (I believe it was
the stealth-seneca site) which claimed that it did nothing more than affect the
shift point of the transmission.
The owners manual says "Eco: select this mode for normal driving...your car
will run quietly and smoothly with good fuel economy. Pwr: use this mode when
more engine power is desired such as when driving in mountainous areas, or
passing vehicles at high speed." "Fuel economy will be reduced when the car is
operated in the Power mode." No more details are provided.
From this statement it sounds like more than the transmission is affected.
So I'm left wondering about the technical details of what occurs when switching
from Eco to Pwr, or vice versa. Does the car go to its full 222 HP in Pwr?
I'd love to get this cleared up once and for all.
Thanks,
Chris
91 Stealth ES, S22 body color-Wheat Beige (rare?) (appearance is
silver)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 20:00:24 -0400
From: Roger Lee <
rcleeny@optonline.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Pwr/Eco switch--Engine affected?
"nothing more than affect the shift point of the transmission." is
correct.
I have '94 Stealth and the service manuals which show the different shift
patterns. It "gives you more power" by allowing the engine to rev higher
or by down shifting at higher revs - if that can be described as power.
The shift points in either case are throttle position dependent.
Roger
The Eco/Pwr changes the shift points
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 20:16:44 -0400
From: "Christopher Gerard" <
c.w.gerard@worldnet.att.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Pwr/Eco switch--Engine affected?
Many thanks Roger.
Chris
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 22:05:25 -0400
From: Jim Smith <
jhsmith@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fuse Block Problems
Thanks for the information!!! It appears I will have to shop around
for
a fuseblock.
Anyone know where I can find one?
Thanks Jon for the response!!!
Jim Smith
- --
Blaming the gun for murder, is like blaming the car for hit and
run!
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2003 10:20:59 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Leaking Oil Cooler line. Recall??
I've never heard of a recall on this, but I, too, had to replace
them.
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#206
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