Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, July 9
2003 Volume 02 : Number 200
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Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 10:58:00 -0400
From: Kopsick Michael J Contr
WRALC/LJET <
Michael.Kopsick@robins.af.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Door Lock Help.....I need advice really bad!
I don't have a remote entry for the car, or if I do I didn't get it when I
bought it. This happens when I use the key, I have to be really fast with
the door handle or it locks before I can open it......its driving me
crazy!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 11:02:23 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Door Lock Help.....I need advice really bad!
Well that raises an interesting point then, because the only other thing
that would -command- the doors to lock/unlock (that I can think of) is the
anti-lock-your-keys-in-the-car algorithm. And it never commands a lock
(only unlock) so what the? I think my second guess would have to go to a
bad switch.
Ken
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 11:07:44 -0400
From: Bill Ma <
BillMa@FLAGCOMM.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Door Lock Help.....I need advice really bad!
I had a similar problem at one time. I ended up unplugging the big
multi-pin connector near the driver side door hinge and cleaning it out. That
cured it for me.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 15:05:21 -0000
From: Kopsick Michael J Contr
WRALC/LJET <
Michael.Kopsick@robins.af.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Door Lock Help.....I need advice really bad!
I want to thank everyone for advice. I'm writing all this down....
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 11:10:56 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Door Lock Help.....I need advice really bad!
Ha! I think Bill is right, yes. I now recall one of my local
members had one pin rust out on his connector, and it was the door lock!
If yours is getting water in there, it could be shorting the lock line to power,
and viola! freaky door locks. Pull that and see what you find, I
think Bill gets the points on this one.
Good luck
Ken
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 11:19:47 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Door Lock Help.....I need advice really bad!
There is an auto door lock relay. It's behind the passenger side
interior trim in the back next to the ABS control unit. There should be
four relays there. The auto door lock relay is the top one on the
right. PN should be MB543647, but I'd double check it with the
dealer. That relay might be bad.
It may also be a problem with the ETACS. The ETACS system will not
allow the door to lock when the key is in the ignition. If you try to lock
it by hand, the computer will force it to unlock. This is opposite of the
problem you are having, but your problem may be symptomatic of a failing
ETACS.
I believe the ETACS unit will set a fault code if there's a
problem there, so you should try to retrieve a fault code from the self
diagnosis connector. Try Jeff's site (stealth316) for more info.
Joe
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 12:02:43 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@spamcop.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 3SX motor mounts(LONG)
Brandon - Good tips and that McMaster catalog does have a ton of
stuff.
As for the bench vise, I was 400 miles from home and had the 3SX mount
(with the pin in the wrong place) for the second week and wanted to stake mine
and fix it so I could send back their mount to them. I was at a friend's
house and he was not at home. He might have had a hydraulic press
somewhere in the basement but I didn't feel like rummaging. Yes the right
tool helps but a vise is just about the right tool for that job - I doubt many
people have a 2-ton floor press in their townhouse.
The replacement mount I got from 3SX had the pin in the center. My
stock mount has it slightly off-center so that was my problem -- I don't know if
that is always like this though.
- --Flash!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 11:40:12 -0500
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 3SX
motor mounts
How big of a problem does this cause? Did you just have to "oomph" it into
position or what? Were all 4 mounts like this?
-b
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 11:43:56 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: You have to see these destroyed brakes!
Damn
:)
- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff
Mohler
orders@speedtoys.com
Team3S/3Si.org Vendor approved brake discounter; also, parts for Toyota, Audi,
BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo. Where do you buy YOUR brakes? I can
help...asking is free! :) "If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 11:46:02 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: You have to see these destroyed brakes!
Doesn't speak at all for what?
How is it that the pad vendor allowed the backing plate to melt?
I'm lost in the comparison really..I think this guy simply overcooked
bigtime to get that much heat in there, or he had dragging calipers/etc.
- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff
Mohler
orders@speedtoys.com
Team3S/3Si.org Vendor approved brake discounter; also, parts for Toyota, Audi,
BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo. Where do you buy YOUR brakes? I can
help...asking is free! :) "If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 12:27:18 -0500
From: "Philip Kennedy" <
pkennedy@sfigroupinc.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Door Lock Help.....I need advice really bad!
Heh, I have that exact same problem, but it seems to
come and go. If ya figure it out I would love to know what the fix is.
Philip K.
94' 3000GT N/A
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 13:28:57 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@spamcop.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 3SX motor mounts
I had to return the mount they sent me since there was no BFH (big
f'ing
hammer) that would get the mount down into position. There are
two 14mm nuts that hold the pin in place and a 17 mm nut that holds the "locator
pin" through the middle of the mount in place. Once both 14mm nuts are
snug then if the hole in the center is off just 1/4" or more there is no way
that pin is going to locate itself in the correct spot. I bet even 1/8"
off will make a difference.
I took pictures of this in case 3SX needed to see why I was returning it
but they graciously agreed and we resolved the situation. I probably have
them in case someone is interested.
I only noticed this on the front corner mount since that is the only one I
requested they send again and stake since mine was originally not staked. They
now sell this mount staked so this should not be a problem for others. I just
happened to have one of the early versions.
- --Flash!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 12:38:04 -0500
From: "Nick McDermott" <
eire1274@cox.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
You have to see these destroyed brakes!
Guys, I have to throw my hat in here.
WTF?!
Look, I'm new to the import scene, but I've done drag and road-course
racing in MUCH larger cars with non-ventilated rotors and "street" pads for
years. My Pontiac, which has seen the most abuse out of me, has the
original (read - placed on the car in December, 1975) one-piston calipers on the
front discs. They've been rebuilt once or twice, but are still stock
brakes.
I've never done anything like this! I cracked a pad once, that's
it.
FYI: the Pontiac is discs front, drums rear, with a 60/40 forward braking
proportioner.
The only way for this to not be driver error is for the car to have been
involved in a
"oh-my-god-i-better-get-stopped-or-i-am-going-to-die-and-take-out-a-doze
n-spectators-too"
braking incident which heated the whole system up very rapidly, otherwise you
know by feel that your poor brakes are cooking.
Nick
93 VR-4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 13:42:26 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Intake Pressurization
This weekend I finally had a chance to conduct the intake pressure test as
shown on Jeff's webpage. I've been meaning to conduct the test after installing
the DNP hard pipes and turbo pipe hits.
At first the pressure was entering the valve covers and bleeding out the
oil cap, so I capped the appropriate lines, etc., and re-pressurized the
lines.
The good news is that I don't believe I have any intake pressure
leaks. However, when I got the pressure up to around 20 psi, the air
started escaping out of the vapor canister. At first I thought it was
passenger side intercooler lines, but then noticed that the air was coming out
of the bottom of the vapor canister (and, of course, smelled like gas!).
Has anyone else experienced this? Is this normal? I didn't have time
to figure out how the air was getting to the vapor canister, so if anyone knows,
please chime in!
Thanks!
Joe
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 11:42:16 -0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: EVAP system (was Intake Pressurization )
As long as we're on the topic, does anyone have a good explanation of how
the pressure/vac lines control the operation of the Evap system? I've
tried to setup the EVAP operation on my AEM EMS based on the diagrams in the
shop manuals, but I haven't gotten a good undertstanding of what pressure/vacuum
on certain lines do to the EVAP valve...
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 15:41:04 -0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Subject: Team3S: Best cheap mod ever - Shift Mounts
I sent the vendor mentioned in the post an email about these bushings, and
here is what he said:
"We only ever work on Eclipses. We never dig into other cars. If you can
send me a pic of your shifter mounting and maybe a dimension of the hole in your
shifter base.
Mike W"
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 14:44:52 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 3SX motor mounts
Check it out... DSM members have been using these mounts for the
longest time, they are tried and true. Do not have doubts.
They are two pieces per mount, one piece on either side. They are
shaped so that they are the proper diameter on the inside of the mount, and
outside the mount, they are large. They all had to be pressed (with a
hydraulic press) in except for one, which was difficult, but done by hand.
The main importance is that when the through bolts are tightened, it is one big
assembly, and nothing can move whatsoever....
Did you look at the link I sent? The whole thing is a tight fit, even
going back into the mount socket on the car. Once the through bolt is in,
its very solid... Solid enough for a 12 second AWD car on stock turbo
:)
- -Cody
------------------------------
Here's the official response from Mitsubishi concerning my transmission*,
as just relayed by my local dealer via email:
AFTER REVIEWING THIS WITH MITSUBISHI I AM SORRY TO INFORM YOU THAT PER
MITSU THEY WILL OFFER NO ASSISTANCE. IF I CAN ASSIST YOU IN ANY MANNER PLEASE
CONTACT ME.
KEITH
I expected as much.
Guess it's lawsuit city.
That new GTO from Pontiac is looking much better to me than a new EVO. At
least GM stands behind its warranty.
We'll discuss this at the NG over a beer or three, then I'll consult with a
local lawyer. Anybody on the list is welcome to weigh in with an opinion on how
to proceed legally from here.
Small claims? Civil court? Federal?
Fix it first, then sue?
Sue
before fixing it?
I will, of course, keep the list updated on what we do and how we do it. If
I am successful, it might open the floodgates of litigation and force the
bastards to take more responsibility for their cars, parts, and dealers.
Rich/slow old poop
*Quick summation: I had the dealer put in a new 6 speed tranny three years
ago, and it leaked immediately. Mitsu tried to fix it under warranty with
band-aids (change fluid, add stop leak, etc.) and when the 12-month warranty was
up they told me "sorry, that's all we can do." I contend that it was a faulty
transmission from the gitgo, and should have been replaced under the original
warranty. It failed after 18,000 miles because it appears to have run dry. It
was maintained regularly.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 19:40:37 -0700
From: "Grd4Spd Racing" <
grd4spdracing@cox.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: You have to see these destroyed brakes!
sounds like the guy needs to learn how to brake (i.e., "use less") thus thy
will go faster.
regards,
terry
"If it doesn't make you go fast, we don't sell it"
Grd4Spd Racing -
www.grd4spd.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2003 20:04:33 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
You have to see these destroyed brakes!
If you read his post on the 3SI.org site you'll see that the failure was to
one pad in rather short notice. My guess was a pad was dragging, causing it
to overheat and fail --- once the pad material was gone it's only a matter
a
corner or two to melt the backing plate.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 21:56:19 +1200
From: "Wayne Thomas" <
waynethomas@quicksilver.net.nz>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Door Lock Help.....I need advice really bad!
I came across this a while back on a different vehicle and it might be the
same thing here.
In the case I dealt with it was simply that the rod
that mechanically connects the actuator to the lock mechanism had come loose and
was only partially moving the actuator.
When the door was
locked/unlocked the actuator would be pushed/pulled only halfway, and as a
result would try to go back to where it started. Since it couldn't it would go
crazy (lock, unlock, lock....) until it finally managed to settle in either the
locked or unlocked position. Could be worth taking the door panel off and
observing the action as the door is locked to see if this is the case.
------------------------------
I work for a Trial Lawyer and may be able to give you
some
important things to discuss with your Lawyer if you
retain one.
1. Most small claims courts only handle issues up to
$4500.00 or
$5000.00, amounts greater than that would go
to a civil court.
2. The Court rules in civil court are often much different
from those
in small claims and I would definitely
recommend legal counsel if you go
this route unless you
are well versed on court procedure and civil
law.
3. In many small claims courts they are only allowing 10%
of the amount
sued to be awarded as attorneys fees, so
there is not as big of a risk if
you loose. However, in
civil court the loser could be forced to pay all of
the
attorneys fees, which could be over $1000.00 on a simple
case- much
more on a complex one. The winner is also often
awarded filing fees and
costs of service.
4. Many attorneys will offer a free consultation- talk to
one.
I hope this is somewhat helpful...
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2003 10:07:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: glenn vrfour <
vr4glenn@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Update on Sue the Bastards
Don't forget to READ your warrantee. It may have a
clause for
binding arbitration.
Glenn
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#200
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