Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, July 7
2003 Volume 02 : Number 198
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 02:39:10 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: paint question
You've already received some good answers, Joe. You might want to
refer to our website too. The article on Detailing is by one of our
members who does this for a living, and the article on Repairing Paint Chips (by
one of his associates), discusses the clearcoat issue. One or both
articles might give you further insights. I've found both pages to be
invaluable. The links are on the FAQ Index Page, under Cosmetics:
www.Team3S.com/FAQ.htm Best,
-
---Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 10:15:41 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Springs & Struts
The first and most important handling mod is to add performance springs,
which stiffen the ride somewhat and lower the car to varying degrees.
These greatly enhance steering precision, and minimize 'diving' in corners and
under braking. Most of us who have aftermarket springs have started with
Eibach ProKit (~$260), which are the 'softest' and lower 1" - 1.25".
Intrax (~$240) are a bit tougher and lower the car up to 1.75". If you do
*really* spirited driving, you might even want to consider Ground Control
coilovers (~$380), which drop the car (variably) up to 2", and are a tad harder
than Intrax, but still a comfortable ride. Be aware that even with only a
1" drop, you will scrape the underside of the front when entering pitched
driveways and parking lots. The minor inconvenience of learning to enter
more slowly solves that problem. The reason that the Vette handled better
is that it comes with stiff springs as stock. In fact, that's one of the
things Vette drivers complain about most is the harsh ride on long trips.
Their stock sway bars are not much stiffer than ours, but the springs are harder
and the car is lowered almost as much as it can go for comfortable(?) street
driving. You can easily make our NT cars a handling match for a stock
Vette simply by adding aftermarket springs.
The only good struts available for our NT cars are stock. (KYBs fit,
but they are junk - even though our stock struts are made by KYB...). Have
the installer check out the struts when putting in the new springs, but it's a
good bet that after 10 years they need to be replaced. If you need to,
replace them with stock struts.
You can also get better handling by going with lower-profile wheels/tires.
"Plus-Sizing" from your stock 16" wheels to 17" wheels makes a noticeable
improvement. (See Cody's Plus-Sizing page on our website - check the FAQ
Index Page under "Wheels, Tires..." for the Link). TireRack says that on
the track, the best size is 17", but many of us have found that 18" rims handle
even better. There are more tire choices in 17", and rubber is cheaper,
though. It's a personal call... Aftermarket wheels range from $150
to $500 each.
If you want to go further with stiffness without any penalty in ride
comfort, add a front tower bar. We felt that cornering was more precise
with the tower bar, but there was more resistance in the steering wheel.
(We started our '94 Stealth NT with Eibachs, then 18" wheels, and a TEC front
tower bar (~$320), and recently upgraded to GCs. The car handles
beautifully for street and
track.) If at this point you want even
*more* stiffness, that means adding a stiffer swaybar. Swaybars can
neutralize a good amount of the understeer that our cars are known for, but some
folks have ended up removing them because of oversteer. The front swaybar
alone might be sufficient on a FWD, but most people appear to upgrade
both. The swaybars are ~$180 for each. This swaybar mod should be
done *after* stiffening the basic suspension components (springs, struts, &
tires), if you are doing really heavy cornering (like on a track). You can
actually get more body roll if the corners are too soft in a diving
turn... But for cornering on the street, they will be just fine. This,
too, is a matter of opinion... Good luck!
Best,
Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2003 14:35:38 -0400
From: "Dennis r. Ninneman" <
dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: paint question
Ditto all that has been said. The showcar set goes a little further
......... they will color sand the last few coats of color, then every
coat of clear that is applied. If the orange peel is not eliminated
prior to the clear, you stand a chance of burning the clear to get rid
of the peel (of course, you have to be good not to burn the
color........ especially on a metallic or metal-flake). The
other
secret is to put a small bar of face soap in the bucket of clean water
you are using for your 1200 grit sand paper. The soap acts a the
lubricant, doesn't hurt the paint ........... assuming you're doing a
reasonable section at a time and you don't let it dry. And if you're
shooting/spotting you own car ........ always shoot it wet not dry.
Saves hours when rubbing it out.
Dennis -==- Philly
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 15:48:23 -0400
From: "Eric Pierce" <
griz600cc@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Springs & Struts
Slow and angled for driveways. Small crack in the front of my car on my
mom's driveway taught me my lesson.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 15:17:43 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Shifter Button on Automatic
1st, car is a '94 R/T with an Auto Tranny(88k mi. on car/tranny). I
noticed that when I took a recent road trip, I had trouble pushing the little
button on top of the auto shifter that lets you go from park to rev. or
drive. I would have to push in the brake pedal about 5-8 times and keep
trying to push the button before it would go down to allow me to shift.
Could this be from an elevation change that my car wasn't used to?
That's the only thing I can think of. I went from normal(1,000ft.) to
the
mountains(7,000-9,000ft.) I was thinking maybe it's a vacuum line
that tells when the brake pedal is pressed in. If it had sat for a while
it wouldn't act up. But parking for an hour or less then getting back in,
it would act up. It's back to normal now, but I wanted to know if it is
something to be concerned about.
Also I just had the transmission fluid flushed about 200 miles before the
trip, they used the +3 type.
Thanks,
- -Erik
'94 R/T
------------------------------
Today, while I was driving, I shifted into 2nd to slow down. And when I
took my foot off the clutch, it didn't spring back. It stuck to the floor. And
the clutch stayed disengaged (or engaged, depending on how you look at it, I
will use disengaged since engaging the clutch is to disconnect the trans from
the engine, in my newbie terms). I was able to get home by getting someone to
push me fast enough for me to get into second gear. But when I press on the
clutch the peddle feels like there is no tension. Just the tension from the
spring itself on the clutch peddle. What could be the problem? Car starts and
such, could this be a major clutch problem? Or something broke between the
trans. and the peddle?
Any input would be help. As I am a newbie, most service centers could
easily screw me.
Thanks
Jason
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2003 21:01:35 -0400
From: Jim Smith <
jhsmith@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Clutch :(
Low fluid in the clutch cylinder, or a bad clutch cylinder, or a leaky
clutch fluid line, or a bad slave cylinder. All at somewhat easy to
fix.
Good Luck!
Jim Smith
- --
Blaming the gun for murder, is like
blaming the car for hit and run!
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 20:34:42 -0500
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch
:(
I would have to agree with Jim on this one, as this same thing pretty much
happened to me. Mine ended up being a nasty clutch master cylinder, and a "f"-ed
up clutch release (slave) cylinder. First thing to do would be to check the
fluid level in the clutch master, it's right next to your brake master, on the
driver's side firewall. If the fluid is low, you would probably want to add some
and see if it stays. If you've got some leaks in your system, it should probably
be made fairly apparent by large puddles after you push in on the clutch. I
would say the best place for leaks would be the high pressure fittings on the
clutch master and the slave (located in the back of the engine compartment,
lower-center, it's got a high pressure line running to it, and it has a push-rod
that pushes on the clutch release fork), or perhaps inside under the dash, but
you should also check that the bleeder nipple on the slave cylinder hasn't
somehow unscrewed itself... If there's no leaking, ! then it would seem
that you've gotta replace your clutch master (~$63) and your clutch release
(~$42), in which case, welcome to the family... =0) FYI, the process isn't
overly hard if you're mechanically inclined and have a manual handy... Well,
that, and you can squeeze into tight little areas like a damn contortionist. =0)
Best of luck.
-b
------------------------------
Master/slave cylinder..PITA, but not too bad.
Also..brakes are a LOT cheaper than clutches. Don't use your
clutch/gearbox as a brake on the street, no need for it.
- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff
Mohler
orders@speedtoys.com
Team3S/3Si.org Vendor approved brake discounter; also, parts for Toyota, Audi,
BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo. Where do you buy YOUR brakes? I can
help...asking is free! :) "If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 20:46:35 -0500
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Clutches
again...
While we're on the subject of clutches again, what's a good way to tell if
your clutch disc needs replacing? Short of dropping the tranny and having a
gander that is... Thanks.
-b
------------------------------
I'll echo that question. I smoked my clutch something ferocious trying to
make it up my hill into the garage in 3rd gear. It emitted smoke and stunk up
the garage for 24 hours. What's the chance it's toast?
What do I look for
when I take it out?
Rich/slow old poop/busted tranny
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 20:48:49 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Clutches again...
Generally speaking the old adage --- if it ain't broke don't fix it --- is
a good rule to follow. If it's not slipping you can get an indication from the
release point. If it's changed or the clutch slips when the pedal is moved a
very small amount you may have an imminent clutch death on your hands.
If you're pulling the trans anyway I'd go with a new disk even if the
clutch is in relatively good shape. I have that problem coming up --- my RPS 6
puck clutch and pressure plate only have about 10 K miles on it but I'll be
pulling the engine and trans so I'll have to decide if I want to go with new
parts or not --- lot's of bucks involved but pulling a trans later is a
PITA.
If the clutch has been removed there are some specs on the clutch and
pressure plate in the manual ---- if it's been glazed it's shot [ I think ]. You
may want to check with a tranny guy to see if you can salvage it.
Jim Berry
===================================================
------------------------------
I have a 92 sohc Stealth with a shift lever that has started to get some
looseness in it lately. How is the best way to get at it to tighten it up? Any
help would be appreciated.
Bryan Goldman
92 sohc
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 06:16:13 -0700
From: "Grd4Spd Racing" <
grd4spdracing@cox.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutches again...
> If the clutch has been removed there are some specs on the clutch
and
> pressure plate in the manual ---- if it's been glazed it's shot [
I
think
> ].
a glazed disk in no longer good.
> You may want to check with a tranny guy to see if you can salvage
it.
purchase a new disk or better yet a new clutch. we offer ACT and Clutch
Masters clutches....Stages 1 thru 5 and even multidisk setups for hardcore
racers....if you are basically stock we also have OEM equivalent kits as
well.
regards,
terry
"If it doesn't make you go fast, we don't sell it"
Grd4Spd Racing -
www.grd4spd.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 06:15:58 -0700
From: "Grd4Spd Racing" <
grd4spdracing@cox.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutch :(
> Today, while I was driving, I shifted into 2nd to slow down. And
when
> I took my foot off the clutch, it didn't spring back. It stuck to
the
> floor.
sounds like you have air in the clutch line and/or you clutch master went
bad.
check the fluid level, top off, then bleed.
if that doesn't do it most likely some thing is broken and/or you need a
new clutch.
try the easy/cheap "fixes" first.
regards,
terry
"If it doesn't make you go fast, we don't sell it"
Grd4Spd Racing -
www.grd4spd.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 06:16:03 -0700
From: "Grd4Spd Racing" <
grd4spdracing@cox.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutches again...
> While we're on the subject of clutches again, what's a good way
to
> tell if your clutch disc needs replacing? Short of dropping the
tranny
> and having a gander that is... Thanks.
if you "smoked" the clutch (nasty smell) there is a very good chance that
you will need to replace the clutch soon...the best way to tell this is that you
revs go up when you depress the accelerator in say 4th or 5th gear....the motor
revs up, but the car doesn't accel accordingly...that's a good way to tell if
you will be needing a new clutch soon....the clutch "slips".
regards,
terry
"If it doesn't make you go fast, we don't sell it"
Grd4Spd Racing -
www.grd4spd.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 06:16:08 -0700
From: "Grd4Spd Racing" <
grd4spdracing@cox.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutches again...
> I'll echo that question. I smoked my clutch something ferocious
trying
> to make it up my hill into the garage in 3rd gear. It emitted
smoke
> and stunk up the garage for 24 hours. What's the chance it's
toast?
a very good chance.
> What do I look for when I take it out?
the friction service will look glazed/overheated....like brake pads that
have been cooked and glazed.
regards,
terry
"If it doesn't make you go fast, we don't sell it"
Grd4Spd Racing -
www.grd4spd.com
------------------------------
I guess I'm the third to agree that it is probably the
Master and or slave
cylinder. I had both go out on my previous
94SL. I did manage to get around
town and to the mechanic by manually
pulling the clutch out with the toe of my
shoe for each gear change,
although I don't recommend it for safety reasons.
I would also have to agree that it is better to stay
away from downshifting
or engine breaking if you can. I have been
doing it for so long that it might
be harder for me to quit than
smoking. As stated before, the master and slave
cylinder are not too
pricey, but Satan will rape you in labor so try and stay
away from the
dealer if possible. It's been a while but I want to say Satan
wanted
around $600 to replace the master and slave cylinder.
Good Luck,
Scott
94 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 10:08:35 -0400
From: "Gene Calarco" <
gac@clifton.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
Fw: Team3S: Loose automatic shift lever
I have the same problem, I have not fixed it yet, however would believe
that it is necessary to disassemble the lower part of the console and top shift
lever to get at the linkage. There only seems to be about 4 p-head screws
holding the console in place but the shifter lever seem to be a bit more tricky
to take apart. I would also welcome some other suggestions, can it be
reached from under the car would be my question?
Eugene
92' DOHC Auto
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2003 10:50:15 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: Team3S:
CHAPOR R/T TURBO Identity Kits
I think someone was inquiring about this a few weeks or months back, so I
thought I'd post it to the site. I have this kit, and it looks
awesome. I stayed with the silver, even though my car is pearl
white.
<<<If you are still the proud owner of a CHAPOR Identity Kit
equipped R/T TURBO; we wanted to let you know that we are clearing out our
inventory of Kits. The kits are available for a limited time until the stock is
exhausted. No more kits will be ordered from the manufacturer once the supply is
gone.
Our web site has been updated, with order information for the remaining
inventory of Identity Kits. In addition to the regular Identity Kit, we have
added a Deluxe Kit with additional graphics, in the event of an accident, just
in case you need to replace a graphic or you are planning on repainting your
car.
So, if you have ever considered having a spare kit on hand, now is the time
and this will be your last opportunity to keep your pedigree's identity
preserved. For more information, please visit the updated CHAPOR Web Site
located at:
http://www.Chapor.com- --
- ----------------------------------------------
Email:
Chapor@Chapor.com Web:
http://www.Chapor.com-
----------------------------------------------
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#198
***************************************