Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, July 6
2003 Volume 02 : Number 197
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Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 00:06:38 -0600
From: "Jim Floyd" <
jim_floyd7@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Removal of front O2 Sensor
Rob at Lyons Tire probably does.
He has a set of metric taps.
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Date: Sat, 05 Jul 2003 11:30:54 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Removal of front O2 Sensor
>> Any suggestions on the best and easiest way to remove the front o2
>> sensor.
I have some tips on my web page below.
I happened to have the alternator and AC compressor out of the car when I
replaced the front O2 sensor. If you don't mind removing the alternator and AC
condenser then access is easy. Some owners have been able to get to the front O2
sensor from below, leaving the alternator in place.
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Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 20:22:39 -0500
From: "Nick McDermott" <
eire1274@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Clutch release fork
Any recommendation where to get a fork and boot? Local parts stores
don't seem to have this part listed for the 93 VR-4 5-speed. My trans
arrived without these parts.
Nick
93 VR-4
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Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 21:35:13 -0400
From: "Joseph Spainhour" <
spainhou@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Team3S: paint question
Hello all,
This is a little off topic due to the fact that it is about my laser
and not my 3000gt, but it might have relevance as far as paint jobs
go.
My laser has a really cloudy/faded clear coat and I would like to
get at the paint that is underneath. I checked out stealth316.com and used what
Jeff recommended, but it is taking an extremely long time to get down to the
good paint. I was wondering if anyone knows of a way to strip that clear coat
off any faster. I am about at the point that I take sandpaper to it and Hope
that I can smooth it out afterward. Does anyone have any other
suggestions?
Thanks,
Joseph
93 3000GT VR4
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Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 18:52:58 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Clutch release fork
Those are dealer items or maybe Kormex. You could also get a used item from
someone on the 3SI.org site but condition is always an issue with used.
Jim Berry
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Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 18:59:26 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
paint question
Use caution when going through the clear coat --- if you have any type of
metallic or pearl you'll mess up the paint by sanding it. If it's a solid
color you can sand
it down using progressively finer paper finishing with
1200 grit and then buffing
it with various polishing compounds
--- no matter how you look at it it's a batch of work.
Jim Berry
================================================
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Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 21:10:01 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Best cheap mod ever - Shift Mounts
I just did this "mod" to my AWD Talon... It is seriously the best
driver mod ever. Now, instead of having a sloppy shifter, the shifter base
is solid, so, you can actually feel the tranny shifting between gears, and
such. It's an awesome feeling, 1st is always in the exact same spot, as is
all the other gears. There is no slop from gear to gear, and shifts are
easier and cleaner...
Now, I realize the link I gave is for the DSM bushings, and I haven't
looked on my 3000 to see if they are the same, but I will soon... At any
rate, will give you all something to think about...
You can thank me later...
- -Cody
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Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 21:01:11 -0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: paint question
Jim Berry's advice is right on the money Joe. There is no quick way
to correct a faded clearcoat. In two stage paint jobs (base coat, clear
coat, aka bccc) the color coat is sprayed first. It does not shine when
applied and it is not usually buffed. After the color coat is applied the
first coat of clear coat is applied. This is allowed to dry. It can be buffed
but usually is not. Another coat of clear is put on. This too can be
buffed. If you want a third coat then that can be applied. I don't know of
anyone who applies more than three coats of clear in a normal paint job. I
say normal because most cars used on the road are shot with a urethane enamel
and the above is how it is done. Lacquer is another type of application
altogether. Only show car buffs and Rolls Royce use lacquer. It is
very touchy to apply and does not hold up well. It does get a higher
shine, however, and that is why show car owners sometimes use it. Frankly,
I can't see any difference between today's Lacquer and today's urethane
enamel.
Color sanding is described in detail on the Maguiar's Wax website.
The most important thing about color sanding is that you soak the sandpaper for
15 minutes and work on a perfectly clean surface. If there is any dirt on the
surface it will just scratch away at what is already there. It is actually
pretty easy to get a perfectly clean surface. Color sanding is done with
the surface wet so just sponge it off a couple of times before rubbing with the
paper.
Hope all this helps. It is a lot of work. (Ask me how I
know).
A total paint job with everything disassembled will costs about
5-7k. A
Maaco paint job using urethane paint costs 3-4 hundred
depending on whether they are having a sale. With an older car, my choice
would be the Maaco job. I had one put on my old BMW 635csi. It looked
great and lasted for 10 years. On the other hand, I wasn't putting it in
any shows.
Good luck.
Andy
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Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2003 22:16:19 -0600
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad@uswest.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Clutch release fork
The clutch fork is about $65 at the dealer and it would be less from
Tallahassee Mitsubishi. When you say boot, are you talking about the boot
that goes on the shifter?
Rgds
Moe
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Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 00:08:04 -0500
From: "Nick McDermott" <
eire1274@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Clutch release fork
If I am correct, there should be a boot on the release fork itself. I
do not have an illustration to refer to which shows this clearly, and am piecing
together my transaxle install step by step going from what parts I think I am
still missing. Stealth316.com refers to this boot in the instructions for
clutch replacement.
Nick
93 VR-4
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Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 00:54:07 -0600
From: "David Dallmann" <
listsrv@cableone.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Springs & Struts
I bought my (stock) '93 3000GT-SL 5 years ago, and it was the best handling
car I had ever driven or ridden in. Being the only enthusiast I know in my
immediate circle of friends, I don't know if that's all that impressive or
not. The other day, my boss let me take out his (presumably stock) '96
Vette out for a trip. It handled corners SO MUCH better than my car does,
even with the ECS enabled.
My question is -- now that I have 105k miles and 10 years on the car, would
replacing anything in the suspension make a drastic improvement? Opinions
anyone? I assume nothing's been touched on the car other than regular
maintenance before I bought it 5 years ago.
I drive it moderately hard in corners a few times a month, nothing too
serious. I can't tell if the car's handling has deteriorated much over the
5 years I have had it, but I assume it has a bit.
I was thinking that if I looked at replacing shocks / struts, this could
help out? Make it drive 'like new' or close? What should I expect to
pay if this is the recommended approach?
Thanks guys!
- -David Dallmann
Black 1993 3000GT-SL
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Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2003 01:30:09 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Springs & Struts
I think people have seen the most improvement by adding a rear sway bar.
You might want to double up with a strut bar up front, on top of replacing the
struts. I'll be adding both to my car, pending $$$.
- -Erik
'94 R/T
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#197
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