Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, July 2
2003 Volume 02 : Number 194
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 11:14:04 -0500
From: "John Monnin" <
john.monnin@3si.zzn.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Anyone Burn seals out of brake pistons, & Acell coils and spark
blowout
Anyone burn the piston dust shields and seals off of brake calipers?
Jeremy Gleason and I took an all day High Speed Drivers Education
Class
at Gingerman Raceway.
He got his brakes so hot that the seals burned off of
the brake
caliper pistons and brake fluid started leaking out around the
pistons. He bought a caliper rebuild kit but I doubt that it
includes the pistons since it only cost $30 from Tallahassee.
What are the odds that the pistons are trashed too?
Long story below:
Jeremy was trying to take it easy because he was
running Stillen
Metal Matrix pads. Towards the end of the day he had
used up all of
the friction compound and they had gotten hot enough to melt
the dust
boots off of the brake pistons. I gave Jeremy my used set of
R4 pads
and we hit the track. But this time I deliberately lined up
behind
him so we could compare our track speeds. I followed
Jeremy closely
for 5-10 minutes with no problems it was the end of the day
so I was
braking harder than I normally do. My car had developed a
nasty
spark blowout (even with Acell coils) at boost over 10psi. I was
driving slower on the straights but I was braking later and carrying
more speed through the corners so we were evenly matched. Jeremy
let me pass and I lost him after 2 laps. I thought I had out drove
him until I got the pits and there was a crowd around his smoking
car.
Jeremy pulled the driver's wheel off and brake fluid was leaking out
of
the caliper. It was so hot the brake fluid smoked when it was
falling
through the air. The seals on the caliper pistons had
melted and the brake fluid was leaking out around the
piston. My
car had gotten so hot that My brake fluid had
overflowed the master
cylinder but otherwise my brake look fine. The
biggest difference
between our cars is that I had removed my front dust
shields.
Removing the dust shields really helps to cool the brakes but
It
looks like I really need to make some cooling ducts too.
Now we are both scrambling to get our cars running for NG03, last
year
I don't think either one of us had enough time to clean our cars
ahead of
time last year and it looks like this year will be just as
badƒ¼
My spark blow out problem REALLY ticked me off. I just put
Accell
coils in and the car has been running better, I pulled my front 3
plugs (coppers gapped to .035) and they looked great. SO I am now
going to pull the rear plugs and inspect them and gap them down
to .032
if there is not damage. Something else I noticed. Acell
coils get
REALLY hot compared to stock coils. Overall I am not
impressed with
them. They are ugly (it is impossible to keep the flat
yellow clean) they
are bigger (they hit my radiator hose) and they
did not let me run any more
gap than stock. Why did I bother?
I did the GM coil conversion myself per Al Bautista's webpage. Anybody have
a positive experience with Acell coils?
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Jul 2003 16:22:46 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Install Air/Fuel Meter(s)?
>> but where do I connect the wire(s) to the o2 sensor?
I prefer to tap the wires at the ECU harness connector, as shown on my web
page below.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 11:39:25 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Anyone Burn seals out of brake pistons, & Acell coils and spark
blowout
been there done it got the t-shirt, although it was 1st gen rear brake
calipers both sides
pistons are likely still good. when you rebuild the calipers you can
clean them nicely with scotch brite pads.
have you taken the dust shields off the hubs yet? have you replaced
the splash guard extensions with hardware cloth?
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 10:12:53 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: MSD Ignition Coils WAS: Acell coils and spark blowout
John Monnin wrote:
> My spark blow out problem REALLY ticked me
off. I just put Accell
> coils in and the car has been
running better, I pulled my front 3
> plugs (coppers gapped to .035) and
they looked great. SO I am now
> going to pull the rear plugs and
inspect them and gap them down to
> .032 if there is not damage.
Something else I noticed. Acell coils
> get REALLY hot compared to stock
coils. Overall I am not impressed
> with them. They are ugly (it is
impossible to keep the flat yellow
> clean) they are bigger (they hit my
radiator hose) and they
> did not let me run any more gap than
stock. Why did I bother?
Another option to consider is the MSD coils (P/N 8224). I recently
installed them on my VR-4 and helped with Mike Elliot's installation as
well. Both cars showed significant improvements after the
installation.
Mike went from getting nasty blowout at anything over 12psi with 0.032" (or
maybe 0.034") gap on OEM *platinum* plugs to running 0.041" gaps with no blowout
whatsoever.
I went from running 0.039" (stock NGK plugs) with mild blowout over 14psi
on cold days with water injection turned on to no blowout running up to 15.5psi
with water injection on cold days, still with the 0.039" gap.
I did the installation almost the same as Al's installation (reusing the
stock bracket), except that I mounted them higher to clear the radiator hose and
I made an aluminum backing plate to hold the coils more securely. Also, I
coated the flat-red coil packs with Griot's Garage Engine Gloss (protective
coating for plastics that repels dirt) before installation and they are still
bright red after several weeks and my poking around the engine bay last
weekend.
I have pictures from the installation, but no web page yet (working on
it). I can throw the pics on my website if anyone wants them - e-mail me
privately if so.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 10:32:05 -0600 (MDT)
From: Jim Floyd <
jim_floyd7@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: MSD Ignition Coils WAS: Acell coils and spark blowout
Will you be selling these as a kit ?
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 17:49:54 -0000
From: Kopsick Michael J Contr
WRALC/LJET <
Michael.Kopsick@robins.af.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Door locks gone crazy! HELP ASAP
Does anyone know how to fix this? Thought this list was of
experts...haha seriously I need help on this one!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 12:02:50 -0600
From: "Curtis McConnell" <
Curtis.McConnell@pulte.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Not holding boost/missing in low gears.
I have a Vr-4 Spyder with the mods listed below. Since I've gotten the
15g's the car isn't holding boost. It will hit 1.00 kg/cm2 and drop to around
0.93 kg/cm2 by redline. In first gear it will stutter a little when the boost
hits 1.00. I have done pressure testing and no leaks, I have done learning mode
3 times and reset the ECU.
Anyone have the EVC IV with the same issue? Help please, I want the car
running right when I go to St. Louis.
Curtis McConnell
1995 VR-4 Spyder
Intake
Full exhaust, no
cats
TEC ported 15g's
EVC IV
Krankvents
Blocked EGR
------------------------------
Dear friends,
93VR4 113K miles
spark plugs changed about 1000 miles ago
don't think
I changed the fuel filter 'cause there's a new one in the garage 60K maintenance
done on time idles just fine revs fine with clutch pedal in as soon as you start
to accelerate under load, when boost gauge reads 10mmHg vacuum, starts missing
no obvious intake or vacuum leaks no overheating oil pressure seems fine oil
level normal
Where to start looking?
My first thought was to disconnect the battery for 10 seconds and let the
ECU try to make a new fuel map. Second thought was to go ahead with the 120K
maintenance and see if the timing belt has slipped. Third thought was a
compression check. Fourth thought was to check the ignition coils. The ECU
was replaced last year.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 11:58:06 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: MSD Ignition Coils WAS: Acell coils and spark blowout
By popular request, you can find my pictures here:
Note that this is a temporary page until I have time to do the writeup, so
if you're looking at this in the archives a few months from now, it may not be
at the above URL.
As for whether I will be selling this as a kit, at this point, no.
I'll provide my web page with detailed instructions on how to do it, but, at
least if you want to use the stock bracket, there is a bit of custom work to
do.
Now if I got Bob or someone else to CNC me a complete bracket.... but
then it wouldn't be the super-cheap ($150) coil upgrade anymore :-)
- --Erik
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 14:08:54 -0500
From: "Lim, Yong H SPC"
<
yong.lim@sill.army.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Question about timing belt...(urgent)
Ok, before I say anything, my car is 93 3kgt vr4(I always seem to forget to
say this...)
(*just skim through please*)
Right now, I have my car in a local shop
because the timing belt that I replaced from there came off only a week after
installation. The mechanic there checked it again and told me that the
timing belt(new one) was bad. He was basically saying the new timing belt wasn't
elastic at all and he showed me this by folding the tip of both old and new ones
in half. Sure enough, the new one folded completely in half touching each
other while the old one formed a oval. I don't know anything about the
timing belt so I said ok and told him that I will get a different one since the
new one I got
wasn't OEM.
I ordered my new one from
Tallahassee mitsu dealer but due to my bad luck I guess, the thing didn't ship
for almost two weeks and even worse, I got the wrong part to boot. I got
real mad and called mitsupartsdirect and ordered timing belt with next day
service.
Today, I got it and gave it to the mechanic this
morning. I checked his shop again this afternoon and he's telling me the
same thing with this new OEM belt that he told me with the last one. He's
saying that it's not elastic at all and he's suggesting me now that he would
rather want to put an old one.
Question: What is the initial condition of timing belt? Is it
suppose to be elastic or is it suppose to be loose?
The new OEM belt I got from mitsupartdirect is definitely loose as it touch
each other completely when you try to fold in half near the tip of the
belt.
Any help would be appreciated....thanks
------------------------------
It sounds like I blew the tranny, but all opinions are welcome.
First of all, I wasn't doin' nuttin. Just a brisk drive through the
countryside. The problem may have started two weeks ago at the Corvette Club
autocross, when I missed 3rd on the 2-3 upshift. I fished around, trying to find
a gear, and finally got it into 5th. I never missed a shift before, and wondered
why that one went sour.
Anyway, today it popped out of 2nd, then popped out of 6th, then started
whining, then started vibrating. Power was way down on the motor. It felt like
something was holding it back.
I drove it home slowly, and, as I turned into my driveway it popped out of
1st. I fried the clutch getting it up the hill into my garage in 3rd. It seems
like I have 3rd, 4th, and 5th but that's all. Lotsa smoke and fried clutch smell
came from under the right side of the motor.
The tranny has been leaking fluid for years, ever since Mitsu replaced it
under warranty three years ago. The new tranny started leaking immediately, and
really blows fluid out when I race. I get the fluid topped off on a fairly
regular basis, but have neglected it lately. I suspect it's bone dry.
I assume that it's shot, and will need a replacement from Kormex or
whatever.
Any chance that it's salvageable? You know, like just add some fluid?
Is it possible that it's the clutch?
How do you tell?
Before I take any drastic steps -- such as order a tranny or start taking
the car apart -- any suggestions? Driving it is probably out of the
question.
Since the money tree in the backyard stopped blooming, I may try to fix
this myself. Who has tranny replacement instructions on a web site?
Rich/really slow old poop/94 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 15:38:38 -0500
From: "Nick McDermott" <
eire1274@cox.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Blew tranny, I think
Jeff Lucius posted this link in reference to something else entirely the
other day, but it's proven very valuable to me (installing new clutch and trans
and front driveshafts):
http://www.stealth316.com/2-trany.htm
I'm using it mostly for reassembly instructions, but the removal
instructions look good, too. HAVE A SECOND PERSON WITH SOME MECHANICAL
SKILLS HANDY. I TRIED IT ALONE with no success.
Nick
93 VR-4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 01 Jul 2003 20:57:04 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Not holding boost/missing in low gears.
Curtis,
There is too much missing info here to really say what the problem might
be.
Are you still using the stock fuel system? If not, what injectors and fuel
pump are you using, and what is the voltage at the pump? What airflow signal
conditioner are you using (S-AFC, AFR, ARC2, GM MAF-T, VPC)?
What ignition mods? Have you gapped down the plugs? What kind of plugs
(manufacturer, electrode metal, heat range)? Have you looked at plugs to check
for detonation?
What intake? Just a filter upgrade? Stock MAS still used?
Is the EBC plumbed correctly? To see if the EBC is the problem just pinch
(clamp) or cap the hose(s) that go to the wastegate actuators (clamp the one
coming off the Y-pipe). This way they should never open. Use your right foot to
control boost level. How high does it go (may want to stop at 1 kg/cm2 at high
RPM - less if using stock fuel system)?
The bottom line is the EBC and intake hoses/tubes may be fine. But if you
can't make the power (lack of fuel, lack of spark, excessive timing retard from
detonation, airflow-related fuel cut) then you can't make the boost
either.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 15:37:30 -0600
From: "Curtis McConnell" <
Curtis.McConnell@pulte.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Not holding boost/missing in low gears.
I am running the stock fuel system, stock MAS. The gap is down to .032 on
the same heat range NGK copper plugs (Pete P. gave me the model # but I don't
have it on me) Stock ignition.
I shortened the vacuum lines so I am positive there is no kink. All of the
lines are 5" at the longest.
Curtis McConnell
1995 Vr-4 Spyder
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 15:38:16 -0700
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Need emergency advice on cams!
Hi guys.
I don't know if any of you have been following my saga of the engine
rebuild. It is the all too common timing belt, bent valves, dinged pistons and a
multi-thousand dollar rebuild caused in this case by the timing cover gasket
getting into the timing belt...
Anyhow, here is what I need. Per Matt Monet of Dynamic Racing I decided to
put NA DOHC exhaust cams into my VR4. This moves the power torque up in the RPM
range and gives more power in the latter areas of the RPM range, which is where
I tend to hang when I race. I ordered my cams last winter from some guy, they
came in all pretty and sat in the box till now. I have EVERYTHING else lined up,
FINALLY, and am ready to put the car back together when to my horror I discover
that I was mailed a front exhaust cam and a rear INTAKE cam!!
Not wanting to wait another two+ weeks for the shipping, that's assuming he
even still has the cam I need I asked the local guys about whom might have some
spare cams. One guy does! However, there is a snag. My car is a '92 with the
adjustable CAS, his cams are a '93 with the non-adjustable CAS. As we all know
the intake cams are different, however what I would like to know is whether the
exhaust cams on the '91-92 and the '93+ NA DOHC are the same. This would be a
total rescue of my project. Anyone with solid info on this, please speak
up.
Thanks,
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 22:19:26 -0700
From: "Paul T Kempkes" <
fretless@twcny.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Fw: '94 Stealth tt stereo mods
Friends
I'd like to add a subwoofer amp to my Stealth. Plan A is to tap into
the amp that is under the passenger seat for the low level signal and power. The
Infinity amp, though, has a six poles round plug for the line level input.
It looks like a MIDI or PS/2 plug, but the poles don't line up the same
way. Splicing in with wire cutters seems like a PIA. (Power seems
easy enough.) I'm therefore looking for a "y" connector that splits the
line out signal from the head unit right before it connects to the
amp. Female
at the single end, male at the twin end. Any
ideas? I'd like to avoid using the speaker level outs for a cleaner sound.
Drive Fast, Take Chances, Paul K
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 19:26:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Anthony Tse <
tse1631@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
EGR & EVAP question
Hi: I have a 92VR4 California spec. My car's Check
Engine light keep
comes on every 200-500 miles. I have
to reset the ECU every 2 weeks. The car
runs fine even
with the CE light on. Last week I finally check the
error
code & find out it is the EGR error code. Also,
I notice the EVAP
canister & the hose connect to it
are missing, it was like that when I
brought the car.
At that time I didn't know what it is. The only thing
I
saw is a nipple connected to nothing. I brought the
car to Mits dealer one
time & they couldn't tell
what's missing.
Here are my
questions: What does the EVAP system
do? Can the missing EVAP canister make
the CE light
comes on? Is the EGR a serviceable part? If so, what
can I
use to clean it? I check the wires & hose are
o.k. Why the CE light comes
on after couple hundred
miles, not after I reset the ECU?
Sounds like I have so many questions. Can someone
tell
me the answer or little advise what else to look
for?
Thanks!
Anthony
------------------------------
My tranny blew up.
As I told you, it was a brand new tranny three years ago. It was replaced
under my GM aftermarket warranty, and the Mitsu dealer put in a new Mitsu
tranny, with a 12-month Mitsu warranty.
It immediately started to leak, and I complained to the Mitsu dealer. They
replaced some seal, which did not solve the problem. When that didn't work, they
said that was all they could do.
So, within the warranty period, I complained.
Within the warranty
period, they attempted to fix it.
They didn't fix it, and it continued to
leak.
It ran dry, and blew the trans.
I think I have a case for small claims court.
I want a new tranny for
free.
What's the best course of action?
A strong letter to the dealer, demanding they fix it?
Go to small claims
court, and demand they replace the tranny? Fix it, then take the dealer to small
claims court?
Whaddaya think?
Rich/broken tranny
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 19:37:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Anthony Tse <
tse1631@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Not holding boost/missing in low gears.
Are you still using the stock BOV?
Anthony
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 21:39:58 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: I wanna sue the bastards
You think a new tranny+labor will cost within small claims limits?
Sure it worth a trip to court.
- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff
Mohler
orders@speedtoys.com
Team3S/3Si.org Vendor approved brake discounter; also, parts for Toyota, Audi,
BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo. Where do you buy YOUR brakes? I can
help...asking is free! :) "If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 22:49:21 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: I wanna sue the bastards
Start at the bottom and work your way up. keep records. start
with the dealer, then the manager, then go right to mitsu. I wrote to
Pierre Gagnon and that raised some smoke back at the dealer, got things rolling
for me. BBB is always there, and I'm sure there are others. But in the
meantime, I am sorry, I hate to hear these stories. Best of luck.
Ken
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 19:52:37 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
3S-Racers: I wanna sue the bastards
In California the limit is $5K --- that's about what it would cost. You
have to create a paper trail to support your version of the truth. Give them the
info and get their response in writing if they fail to settle then you can take
them to small claims.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
First, I need help ASAP. Can't skip the NG! I need either the stock oil
cooler lines of maybe an upgraded oil cooler with lines. Does anyone have
oil cooler lines lying around? Does anyone make upgraded oil coolers with
lines?
I blew oil cooler line today. I noticed a small oil puddle in the driveway
after I parked the car in the garage after a short ride. I went back and
noticed oil all over the left front fender well.
I have not been running fender guards for two years. I drove in winter for
only one month last year, but that must have been enough to get one of the
oil lines to rust through. Now the steel line is all rusty and as thin and
soft as if it was made of foil. I need new oil lines or a bolt-on oil
cooler upgrade with lines.
Sorry to hear about your leaky tranny, Rich. Sue the bastards! I hope you
would still make it to the NG and the track event in an Eclipse. I will
bring the track pads for it, if you need them, since it uses the same pads
as the 3000GT NA. We must have been reading the horoscopes about
possibilities of unexpected oil leaks today.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 22:30:54 -0700 (PDT)
From:
dark@non-corporeal.netSubject:
Team3S: Air Filter and Choke point
About a month ago I have begun modification of my car (91 Stealth TT). I
decided to use the usual sites for modification stages (daveblack, team3s,
3si, etc). I put a k&n fipk on the car for my first mod.
Now I am curious, it seems the powerbands have changed. The turbos spool
up at higher rpms, I.E. it seems the old filterbox was designed to choke
the engine thus causing the turbos to spool sooner because more air was
needed.
Is this assessment correct? Am I explaining it properly?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 02:18:48 -0400
From: "Eric Pierce" <
griz600cc@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fw: '94 Stealth tt stereo mods
First question is, are you still using the factory head unit? If not, does
the aftermarket have a sub pre-out? If you are using the factory stereo, the
factory amp has minimal power and you may not even feel the effects of your
subwoofer. Imho, if you are using the factory stereo I'd go with a
crossover.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 07:09:49 -0500
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Fw: '94 Stealth tt stereo mods
I wanted to let everybody know that I am working on reconfiguring the DIN
cable coming out of the Factory head unit to be able to plug it into the
RCA connections on an aftermarket amplifier. I have an Infinity head unit
and amplifier from a '96 or '97 (I can't remember which) in my '91, I did this
conversion a few years back. I'm actually finishing the project
today....SO....If it works, the DIN cable will come out of the back of the
factory head unit and terminate as two pair of RCA type connectors......front
and rear, left and right. I've found that the DIN on these stereo models
take the un-amplified line level signal to the factory amp. The benefit is
that you should be able to keep your factory stereo, which I think LOOKS better
than anything you can buy aftermarket(why do all aftermarket stereos these days
look like they are made for 16 year olds?), and still keep your steering wheel
controls, fader and balance controls, etc
I'll let you all know what the outcome is, and give you my "how I did it"
if the outcome is favorable.
- -Jeff Crabtree
St. Louis, MO
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 2003 13:26:05 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Air Filter and Choke point
>> Is this assessment correct? Am I explaining it properly?
No.
A freer intake (filter, MAS, and intake hose) causes less pressure loss
before the turbo. This results directly in the turbo being able to hit the
target output pressure level (boost level in the plenum) sooner, not
later.
How fast a turbo actually spools, that is, how fast a turbo increases
rotation rate, is determined by the several factors (such as A/R ratio of the
exhaust housing, pressure differential across the exhaust section, and
rotational inertia of the wheels and center housing components, among others)
and not by pressure before the turbo.
You are correct that the stock MAS and filter setup are a "choke point" of
sorts, that result in a 1 to 2 psi pressure drop before the turbo (max flow
levels). Aftermarket setups, like mine for example with a S&B intake filter,
Granatelli 87-mm MAS, and DNP 2-3/8" smooth-bore metal intake pipes, result in
~1 psi pressure drop at 800 cfm flow and ~0.5 psi loss at 500 cfm flow. In
comparison, the stock MAS alone causes a 1 psi pressure drop at 500 cfm.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 2003 13:29:48 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Not holding boost/missing in low gears.
Curtis,
If you are running 15G's with an improved exhaust, yet still using the
stock MAS and fuel system, you could *easily* be experiencing the following
problems when attempting to boost to 14+ psi (1 kg/cm2).
- - inadequate fuel (and possible lean condition - what does your A/f meter
read?) due to using the stock fuel pump, stock injectors, stock fuel pump
electrical circuit, and no airflow signal conditioner.
Your copper NKG plugs at 0.032" gap are probably OK - assuming rest of
ignition is OK.
Your short vacuum lines make no difference at all concerning your
problems.
Reduce boost to 10 psi. Does 10 psi hold steady to redline? How about at 12
psi?
If you want to take full advantage of 15G turbos (I have these also) at
higher than stock boost you must upgrade the fuel system - 550 injectors, Supra
pump (or similar) direct-wired to battery, and one of the following: S-AFC, AFR,
ARC2, GM MAF-T, VPC.
Reduce the boost and let us know what happens.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 02 Jul 2003 13:36:18 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: I wanna sue the bastards
Rich,
I can sympathize with you that Mitsu did not supply a transaxle in good
shape and was unable to fix the problem (what is new there?). And I am glad you
or others were not injured because of the transaxle problem.
However, YOU new the transaxle leaked. YOU new the danger in this. You can
blame Mitsu (or a subset thereof) for being worthless bastards and incompetent
(join the club on this). But, IMHO, because YOU were aware of the problem and
the dangers, because YOU refused to get the problem fixed (regardless of whose
fault it is that the transaxle leaked), it is YOUR fault the transaxle ran out
of fluid.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 09:35:15 -0600
From: "Curtis McConnell" <
Curtis.McConnell@pulte.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Not holding boost/missing in low gears.
Sorry forgot to mention I have the HKS SSBOV
Curtis McConnell
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2003 09:42:05 -0600
From: "Curtis McConnell" <
Curtis.McConnell@pulte.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Not holding boost/missing in low gears.
I've tried turning it down to 10 psi but still have the same problem. At
1.00 my A/F shows the richest it will go and my EGT's never have gone above 1300
F.
Curtis McConnell
1995 Vr-4 Spyder
------------------------------
Guys I've got a primo 94 3k for sale. I have pics and a record of
everything that has been done to it. Is there a way to post it on the 3s
site? Any help would be appreciated.
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#194
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