Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, June 28
2003 Volume 02 : Number 191
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 23:23:43 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Towing VR-4
What is the price of piece of mind? The cost of renting a 4-wheel
dolly, maybe? I personally would never take the risk, despite that I agree
with the 4-wheel coasting arguments.
Ken Stanton
91 Pearl White Stealth TT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 23:43:53 -0500
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Towing VR-4, my final word
Yes....my Jeep Wrangler is FOUR WHEEL DRIVE, which is vastly different than
ALL WHEEL DRIVE. I engage the 4wd when I want it and disengage it when I
don't. When it's engaged, there is no "slip" to the differentials.
The wheels are locked, one rotation for one rotation, PERIOD. For this
reason, you should never put the Jeep (or any 4wd with locking differentials)
into 4H or 4L and drive it UNLESS it is on a surface where the tires will
slip(ice, snow, dirt, gravel, wet pavement, etc). Remember that outside
wheels have to go farther around a turn than the inside wheels....if this helps
you to understand this. If the wheel on the inside of the turn can't slip
to make up for the difference in extra rotations that it takes to match the
outside wheel, they bind. This often results in "wheel hop" or worst case
scenario, a broken axle.
Having said that, when the Jeep is in 2WD it is like any other rear wheel
drive vehicle, in that the rear axle is a limited slip differential and the
front axle is (for practical purposes) just an axle with bearings on it, you can
pull it behind a trailer or mobile home with a tow bar or on a tow dolly with no
problems associated with the binding and friction that might occur in a full
time all wheel drive vehicle because the differentials are not limited
slip. I suppose due to the viscous slip differential being more like a
posi-traction system, there is some degree of binding when the wheels travel
around a turn. This binding is probably the reason that they recommend
that all AWD vehicles (Jeep Grand Cherokees, Subaru WRX's, and yes, even 3S's)
are towed "wheels-up" to prevent potential and unnecessary stress on the drive
train specifically the differentials.
And don't forget that our AWD systems have some weird way of distributing
most of the power to the front axles of the car until you really get on it. At
that point(if I remember correctly) it's a 60% to the rear and 40% to the front
kind of deal. How that works...beyond me, but it obviously means that
there's more at work here than just a
simple
MOTOR--->TRANNY--->DIFFERENTIAL--->WHEELS thing going on
here. Hell,
MOTOR--->TRANNY--->DIFFERENTIAL--->I've
had the
drivetrain of my car apart and laid out in pieces in front of me only to put it
back together and have it work properly....AND I STILL DON'T UNDERSTAND HOW IT
WORKS!!!
Coasting, while probably not a good idea, is likely harmless if done a
little at a time, especially since you're not likely doing it while travelling
around sharp turns.
Hope I just helped somebody.....I'm even confused.
- -Jeff Crabtree
'91 R/T TT (3SI #0499)
2K Jeep TJ
SPORT
St. Louis, MO
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 22:38:14 -0700
From: "Ioan Raicu" <
iraicu@cs.wayne.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: smart tire install price
I was just curios if anyone installed a Smart Tire system on their cars?
How much did it cost and where did you do it? If anyone installed one in
the Bay Area CA, I would like to hear from you. Thanks.
John Raicu
94 Yellow TT
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 02:07:23 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: smart tire install price
You talking about the air monitoring system? IIRC, I've seen it
listed about $350 retail... Discount Tire would be more than happy to sell
you a kit and install it for ya!
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 00:16:04 -0700
From: "Ioan Raicu" <
iraicu@cs.wayne.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: smart tire install price
Yeah, I am talking about the tire monitoring system. I received it as
a present for my b-day, so I am just looking to get it installed. I called
America's tire, and they want $150 to install it. I already bought and
installed my tires from them and have the lifetime rotation and balancing, but
apparently this doesn't make any difference and they still want $150. It
sounds like a rip off to me, and honestly, I do not see why I should pay more
than $50~60 for the install. Any thoughts from anyone in regards to how
much is this install really worth?
Thanks again.
John Raicu
94 Yellow TT
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 02:15:16 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: smart tire install price
The cost is all about the std. tire mount/dismount labor..plus a fee for
liability..and its nice to make a few bucks too.
Its NOT hard, but..you gotta tire changer handy?
- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff
Mohler
orders@speedtoys.com
Team3S/3Si.org Vendor approved brake discounter; also, parts for Toyota, Audi,
BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo. Where do you buy YOUR brakes? I can
help...asking is free! :) "If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Need a engine -- anyone have one for sale?
6G72 DOHC NON TURBO W/Cam and
crank sensor.
Steve 1995 3000GT SL
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 03:52:12 -0600
From: "Jim Floyd" <
jim_floyd7@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: smart tire install price
I have it. I bought it so long ago I don't remember the price - over
$200.00 It works great, I love it. With AWD it is hard to tell by how the car
drives if you have a low tire. Mine gives me a warning and an alert if pressure
is dropping slow or fast.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 10:55:52 -0500
From: "Nick McDermott" <
eire1274@cox.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Passenger side driveshaft, VR-4
"OK, is there a difference between the front driveshafts from earlier cars
and newer? I know that there's a difference with the center (rear)
driveshaft, e.g. 18 or 25 spline, but can 91 front driveshafts mate up to a 93
trans?"
Any comments, anyone? Got a seller, but the driveshafts are from a 91
Stealth TT.
Nick
93 VR-4
------------------------------
Just when I thought I knew everything about clutches, mine is doing
something I can't understand. The pedal pressure occasionally becomes very hard.
The tranny shifts fine, it's just difficult to push the pedal. Then after a
dozen or so more shifts, the pressure lightens back up to normal. I checked the
vacuum pipe that goes to the vacuum tank, and also the vacuum hose on the
plenum. They seem fine. The pedal is adjusted properly with enough free play
too. And I would guess that if it's a clutch booster problem, it wouldn't be
intermittent like it is. Do our Master Cylinders have a check-valve in
them that could malfunction and cause the pressure to build up? I've had this
happen before on another car I own, and is the only explanation I can think of.
Any ideas?
Jeff W.
Belleville, MI
'92VR4
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 09:14:49 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S:
somewhat OT: just how fast do race tires wear out?
I have some Goodyear GSCS tires with a treadwear rating of 20 now.
How fast will these wear out? Until I get my new wheels, is it worth
trailering my Stealth to autocross events instead of driving it there? The
AutoX events are about 40 miles away, and the 4-wheels-off-the-ground auto
transport is $50 per day. So I guess the question is... is $50 worth 80
miles of treadwear on the race tires? Sorry to be so green... I'm new to
the race tires game =)
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 11:36:59 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: somewhat OT: just how fast do race tires wear out?
You tell us.
How do you drive?
How aggressive is your alignment?
Does it bother
you that highway use will SERIOUSLY degrade tire performance?
- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff
Mohler
orders@speedtoys.com
Team3S/3Si.org Vendor approved brake discounter; also, parts for Toyota, Audi,
BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo. Where do you buy YOUR brakes? I can
help...asking is free! :) "If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 10:06:54 -0700
From: "Dean Benz" <
dean@benzfamily.us>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: somewhat OT: just how fast do race tires wear out?
On anything but A compound Hoosiers....
No matter how radical your setup, I do not believe driving 80 miles on road
on a set of race tires will eat up $50 worth of life. A single spirited 45
second Autocross lap will eat more tread IMHO.
You do risk the possibility of a puncture or damaging the tread by running
over something so be careful.
I have never taken a hit from the Hoosier Go Fast Crack pipe, so I cannot
comment from experience, but from what I hear, they are very fragile, and the A
compound tires are prone to overheating at sustained speeds.
- ----- Original Message -----
Riyan wrote:
Until I get my new
wheels, is it worth trailering my Stealth to autocross events instead of driving
it there?
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 14:18:39 -0400
From: "Ken Lovell" <
wklovell@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
New Turbos
I thought I saw a post a while back saying that European VR4s came stock
with 13G turbos in them. Is this correct, and if so can I put 13Gs on
without upgrading injectors, fuel pump and adding a fuel controller?
I'm not looking for a killer track car, but would like to add some oomph
and am trying to learn about options.
Thanks,
Ken
'97 VR4
------------------------------
From: Williams, Tommy F [mailto:WilliamsTF@bernstein.com]
Sent: Friday,
June 27, 2003 6:42 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: engine needed
Where are you located? I purchased one in May and know that there are
several still on the shelf..........
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 13:32:24 -0500
From: "Steve" <
denon11@insightbb.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: engine needed
I am located in Danville Illinois 150 miles south of Chicago.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 15:34:18 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt D" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Leak in coolant system + temp gauge
Yep, if you seldom see overheating, and no visual leaks,
its usually the
Rad Cap or water pump.
New cap is cheap, and most likely culprit.
Clean the filler neck well
before installing
the new cap. Turn on heater to full when filling
water.
Kurt
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 21:48:27 +0200
From: "Roger L. Skoglund" <
norbolig@online.no>
Subject: Team3S:
Need Gear Housing for 5-Speed Manual Gearbox, 1993 Mitsubishi 3000GT awd
For a 1993 Mitsubishi 3000 GT awd, with 5-Speed Manual Gear, I need to =
find a Gear Housing. Does anyone of you have that in the garage for sale = ? (of
course, it could also be a none-working complete gearbox, although = I do only
need the Housing).
The 1993 Housing is different from the 1991-92 Model, so it must be a =
1993 for sure (maybe also newer models will fit ?).
Best regards,
Roger=20
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 12:51:37 -0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: AC Leak at passenger's firewall...
As long as I've owned my car, I've had a slow AC leak. The AC system
works fine when I give it a fresh charge of 134a, but after sitting overnight
all the gas leaks out. I've isolated the leak to the lower (larger) of the
two fittings on the passenger side of the firewall.
I replaced the o-ring with a stock o-ring, but the leak persisted. Then I
tried a thicker o-ring of the same size, but the seal was even worse. Now
I'm trying a generic o-ring from Schuck's, along with a bottle of stop-leak in
the AC system. After shutting the car down though, I can still hear a very tiny
leak at the fitting, so I expect all the gas to have escaped by morning.
When I run the AC compressor, a small amount of AC oil (normally clear, but
I've got fluorescent dye in it) collects on the bottom of the lower fitting. It
seems like it's coming from the seal between the hose fitting and the firewall
fitting.
I'm really stumped on this one! Is there anything I can do to make this
o-ring seal better? Has anyone had a similar problem?
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 16:28:46 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt D" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: What color is my car?
It's a medium Grey. With black/brown undertone vs silver.
I like the
color a lot.
Didn't see any listed for stealth, maybe just for 3k cars.
Kurt
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 13:40:49 -0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <
privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: AC Leak at passenger's firewall...
Yeah,
Just the in last three days my system puked PAG on the garage
floor. I thought I had top-end oil leaks but NOOOOO it's AC leakage at the
compressor. Can't spot the leak, don't want to run it with all the oil out and
it's hitting 110 F this weekend. ARGH. anyone ever replace the compressor shaft
seal at home? and I HAD to have a 93 with R12, I repeat, ARGH.
BTW Brian are you sure it's at the fitting joint and the fitting itself
isn't cracked? Ever soap it & watch for bubbles? Is the fittings brass
sealing face smooth? 134a IS corrosive as well as toxic.
Pete Rivenburg
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 13:45:59 -0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: AC Leak at passenger's firewall...
I examined the fitting, and couldn't see any cracks. Haven't soaped
it though - that's a good idea. I didn't see a brass sealing face there at
all - it all looked like aluminum. Maybe that's a problem?
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 15:47:46 -0500
From: "Nick McDermott" <
eire1274@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Driveshaft compatibility
Hey, guys, really need an answer. I've got to find out if the
front
wheel driveshaft assemblies from a 91 Stealth TT are compatible with
my
93 VR-4. Same 5-speed trans, with the usual rear-drive differences,
but
I can't find anything that states whether there's a difference for
the
fronts. This is extremely important; I have an impatient seller
waiting
on me.
Nick
93 VR-4
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 16:53:17 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Driveshaft compatibility
Yes nick the drive shafts are the same, a local guy did a six speed swap
on
his 93 and the axles from his 5Spd worked with the 6Spd.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 14:00:34 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Driveshaft compatibility
Careful boys and girls --- CAPS shows a part number difference for build
dates
9004 to 9205 ---- number MB620104. While 9206 on shows part number
MR165640.
While I have no idea what the difference is they usually don have
separate
part numbers for the hell of it.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 14:55:08 -0700
From: "Rick Pierce" <
RickPierce@pacbell.net>
Subject:
Team3S: WTB 16" 3S Rims
Hi Everyone,
As some of you know I am building up my Plymouth Laser AWD Turbo as my
track
car. It has the stock 16X6" rims and 205/55/16 tires (pretty wide
tire for
a 6" width rim = not acceptable). Supposedly the 16" rims for
a 3S car is a
better match, so I'm wondering if anyone has a set gathering
dust and can
sell them to me cheap. Feel free to email me direct
if you want
RickPierce@PacBell.Net
Rims only as I will be putting race rubber on them, thanks a lot and
we'll
be at Sears Point Tomorrow with Geoff, Nissa, Bob, ET, etc.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 16:15:02 -0700
From: Tim Hackett <
tim@darksoft.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Alarm problem (I think)
I was driving my car, shifting into 2nd applied gas and the engine turned
off. I pushed the car into a parking lot and screwed around for a
while. I don't know much about cars but, I don't think its got anything to
do with the engine. The starter doesn't make any noise when I turn the
key. One thing I have noticed is that the turn signals do not go on except
when I put the hazards on. Most of the electrical system seems to
function. All the lights come on so I know the battery is not dead.
I have never been able to get the alarm to work (nor do I know if its even still
in the car) Any suggestions for a newbie like me?
Thank you,
Tim Hackett
95' Mitsubishi 3000GT (BASE)
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 18:50:31 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: WTB 16" 3S Rims
If ya need any help in the engine department, drop me a line, I've
been
in the DSM thing for a long time, and am finally getting to
seriously
modding mine... Within the next two months, she'll be running
11's, or
I'm scrapping the entire project...
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 18:52:15 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Driveshaft compatibility
Well, look at it this way... the 6 speed came about in '94, so, mid
93
on build dates would be the technical cutoff... My guess is the
earlier
cars were a tad different on the hub side, but I don't know for
sure...
Anything after 9205 should work fine with the 6 spd.
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 17:48:36 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
somewhat OT: just how fast do race tires wear out?
Unless you're running insane amounts of camber the highway trip
isn't
likely to cause that much wear. One issue of course is heat cycling,
the more
heat cycles the harder the rubber. Cops aren't likely to approve
of the
slicks either. I drove from Fontana to home --- about 50 miles ---
on a set
of Hoosiers with no obvious problems.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 18:39:14 -0700
From: "Rick Pierce" <
RickPierce@pacbell.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: WTB 16" 3S Rims
Hi Cody,
Thanks a lot. It looks like Bob Forrest has his 16" setup available -
only
question is he has 245/45/16 is the fit on my first gen DSM (question
only
applies to tires). There is a guy on 3Si that has a set of 16" SL
wheels
and tires with 90% tread (not race rubber) for only $200 so that looks
like
a steal. I found out from Jim Berry the name of the guy who sells
used race
rubber (for over 25 years) and I sent Jim a quick blurb about my
DSM
progress - in case you all are interested, here it is:
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2003 21:01:00 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: WTB 16" 3S Rims
Sounds like you have a pretty good setup going for ya... I'm not
too
keen on the MAF translator setup, but I also know it seems to
work
pretty well... I just use the simple 2g MAS and a S-AFC...
Skip the
3/S fuel pump and go for the Walbro 255HP, I've found them for
$95
including the install kit, and then rewire it (I did)... Also,
key
areas - run 6 or 8 AN line from the pump forward, use the stock
fuel
rail, tapped, then 6 an line to a AFPR (Stock return is ok)... 18
psi
on the 14b turbo is achievable, but it's been found that anything
over
15 psi is really just hot air... To make any better 1/4 mile
passes
with anything more than 15 psi, it takes race gas. The Supra
SMIC is
something I've been considering, but I think I'm gonna go with a
true
FMIC (and a huge one at that)... the Super 20G is on it's way for
the
car, and should be up and running by the end of the month... Before
I
even tackle that, I've got a SS Clutch line and new Poly motor mounts
to
install... (And an EGT gauge)... What do you mean by 3" or 3.75" as
far
as the translator goes??? We all have virtually the same
MAS...
Trust me, I know all about the understeering capabilities of a DSM...
I
don't use mine for corners :) Though, someday I might...
- -Cody
------------------------------
I reset my camber back to where it was before the Corvette Club
autocross.
As you may or may not recall, I have camber plates, so I changed it
from
- -2.5 deg on both sides (/ \) to -5 deg on the right and 0 deg on
the left
(! \). I marked the old settings, and just now put them back. A five
minute
task, thanks to the plates.
However, I had a devil of a time trying to stand up the left front after
I
set the RF to -5 deg. I pried on that strut with a very big prybar, but
it
just did not want to move past 0 deg into positive camber range (\
\).
There was plenty of room left on the camber plate, but it seemed
like
something was working against me, like a tie rod. So I just took it to
0
deg and left it there.
What was happening there? Why wouldn't it adjust to (\ \)?
After I set the car up for roundy-round, the steering wheel position
didn't
change, and the car was just plain wicked on turn in to the left. (In
this
case, "wicked" means good.) On the street, in spite of the
outrageous
camber settings, it drove just fine. It didn't turn right as
nicely as it
turned left, but nothing BAD was happening. Does that mean toe
is not that
critical?
If not, somebody 'splain to me why I can't do this:
1. Get the car aligned with stock camber settings (! !) and an
eighth-out
on toe (+0.125).
2. Drive to the track, with the front tires no
longer up on their inside
edges and wearing like crazy.
3. Whip out my
friendly Allen wrench, crank -5 deg camber into both fronts
(/ \), and
have a wonderful track day.
4. Set the camber back to stock to drive home.
There has to be something wrong with this idea.
Life can't be that
simple.
On the other hand, what are camber plates for, n'est ce pas?
Rich/slow old poop/94 VR4
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#191
***************************************