Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, June 25
2003 Volume 02 : Number 189
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 18:45:08 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Littau <
littau@cs.umn.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Clutch problems, big time...
I had this happen on my 1988 Fiero. I ended up changing out the fluid
in the clutch line. It fixed the problem. I believe the water in the
fluid was being boiled and causing the slave cylinder to fill with steam.
I would start there rather then spending a lot of money for the clutch
cylinders. It might not happen with the 3000GT, but it might be worth
considering. In the Fiero, the slave cylinder is very close to the
exhaust.
david, back to lurking
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 20:30:23 -0400
From: Ved <
1994TT@comcast.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Can I re-use some of the bolts and nuts on the block???
Today I called the Sunrise Mitsubishi in New York and asked them if I have
to replace the connecting rod nuts and those bolts that hold the crank shaft.
The guy in the part department told me that Mitsubishi does not use those bolts
that stretch and that I could even re-use my head bolts. That was kind of
suspicious so I called a Mitsubishi here in Detroit and they told me the same
thing' "Oh, yeah we re-use them all the time." Is this information
true. What do you guys think???
Thanks a lot!!!!!
VEd.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 19:31:39 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Can I re-use some of the bolts and nuts on the block???
OEM rebuild, standard ownership abuse..sure, re-use them.
500Hp applications..dont re-use them.
Its between you and your wallet as to which way you go with this.
- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff
Mohler
orders@speedtoys.com
Team3S/3Si.org Vendor approved brake discounter; also, parts for Toyota, Audi,
BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo. Where do you buy YOUR brakes? I can
help...asking is free! :) "If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 17:47:52 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Can I re-use some of the bolts and nuts on the block???
True information --- The term for non reusable bolts is stretch to yield.
In that case the bolts actually increase in length and do not return to their
original size. Reusable bolts also stretch but are elastic and return to their
original length
when the tension is released. The proper way to tighten
bolts is by measuring
stretch rather than just torquing them.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 20:49:19 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fw: knocking under the passenger side floor board
> > When I hit the breaks there is a single knock under the floor
board
> > of the passenger side. Has anyone experienced this
before?
Possibly a bad control arm bushing. After a while they can get hard
and crack. When pieces of the rubber bushing start falling out, the
control arm end can wiggle around and knock against the mount. I don't
think there are aftermarket bushings available, so factory OEM is the only way
to go.
It could be a number of other things, but that seems most likely to me, and
probably easiest to check/fix.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 20:49:32 -0500
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch
problems, big time...
Ok, problems o' plenty! I've checked the clutch master, which made me
screech in horror, and then I checked the clutch pedal for leaks, to hear myself
saying "eww". The clutch master was not only low, it was goopy!! I've linked to
the pictures here, so what's the prognosis docs? Is my Angelina gonna make it?
(Named after Angelina Jolie for being finicky and psychotic, yet still
hot..)
-b
www.umr.edu/~bwish/pict0017.jpg
is from under the dash
www.umr.edu/~bwish/pict0018.JPG
is in the engine compartment
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 18:54:23 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S: Fw:
knocking under the passenger side floor board
Could be a bad sway bar end link. That's what it was in my
Infiniti. If that's the case, this is also your opportunity to get the
3sxperformance/saner front sway bar installed =)
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
- --------------------->
> When I hit the breaks there is a single knock under the floor board of
> the passenger side. Has anyone experienced this
before?
>
> Courtney '93 ES
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 22:02:17 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch problems, big time...
Ok, well diagnosis positive. What year and model is your car? I
think I saw a clutch booster in that pic, so that would mean TT. You're
going to need to replace the clutch master cylinder, $78 from a dealer with 3Si
25% discount. If you're not mechanically inclined, and I mean inclined, I
would recommend having a dealer do it. I am very experienced on working on
these, and I consider the job about a 9.5 on the difficulty scale. If you
decide to go for it, let me know I just finished it 2 weeks ago and am writing
up a how-to page!
Ken
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 19:33:37 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Clutch problems, big time...
Ken --- what's the big issue ??? I've removed the slave cylinder but never
even looked closely at the master.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 22:47:31 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch problems, big time...
On the TT, you have to 'move' the brake booster to get to the lower nut
holding the master on. Its recessed about 6-8" down the firewall, behind
the brake booster. And there's just absolutely no room to work with all
the A/C lines, the brake stuff, etc etc. But the N/A's are removed by
taking the bolt off from under the dash, so no need to mess with the brake
stuff. We discovered that Brandon's car is N/A, so he gets off easy on this one
;) Take a gander at that lower nut if you have a TT, and use your imagination on
how to get that off - or better yet, back on later =-O
Ken
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 00:06:40 -0400
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch
problems, big time...
Master cylinder rebuild kit is $20something. Includes a new piston with
seals, locking pin, spring, c-clip and on the non turbos, piston rod boot. Much
cheaper option.. since the main thing that leaks/shrinks is the rubber piston
seals. It is not hard to rebuild once you have it out, and cheaper then a whole
new master cylinder. Unless you've got loads of debris and dirt in there, the
cylinder walls will still be smooth, why replace it? The slave cylinder is cheap
enough ($30something) that you can just replace it as a unit.
Omar
92 r/t
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 00:09:47 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch problems, big time...
True, that is an option. Just fyi the reason I went with new is b/c
many ppl told me that the rebuilds often weren't effective.
Ken
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 23:15:12 -0500
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch
problems, big time...
Yeah, the "goop" I referred to was actually more like a mud, with small
particulates in it, so I'm thinking the cylinder itself is probably shot
completely, but it wouldn't be a bad option otherwise... Thanks for all the
input everyone, Team3S is truly a priceless resource!!
-b
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 00:22:32 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch problems, big time...
Glad to hear that you think so too =)
I have 40,000 archived messages
from Team3S, I must search them at least once a week, as well as visit Jeff's
page (
www.stealth316.com). This is
a great family.
Ken
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 00:46:26 -0500
From: "Nick McDermott" <
eire1274@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Passenger side driveshaft, VR-4
Still waiting for the tranny to arrive, but I've run into (hopefully) one
last problem:
The inside (transmission side) portion of the passenger side drive shaft is
missing, from the joint/boot on. Didn't notice before because apparently I
am just too dense. Can anyone make a suggestion other than an OEM
replacement which will cost me $170? Actually, more like $240, because if
I replace the passenger side, I should probably replace the driver side as
well.
I'm discovering that the folks who removed the old transmission really had
not a clue. All parts they took off were kept with the car, but this
portion of the drive shaft is missing, so I must assume it was left in the old
trans.
Nick
93 VR-4 (Will probably be pained Pepto-Bismol pink when all this
is
done)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 02:06:41 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@spamcop.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: will the 4 stock wheels fit in the car?
Thanks, Jim. Here is the proof. This is the way they were
packed when I delivered them to Philip. You will notice that the 4th
mounted tire is between the passenger seat and the rollbar. This was the
only way I found to make room for my wife to ride along. I also had room
for my helmet, shoes, driving suit and toolbag and jumper cables and CD player
and who knows what else. That was a 2.5-ton jack Philip but I did have
four 3-ton jackstands with me and the extinguisher was mounted to the rollbar so
actually didn't take up much room. =) The wheel wasn't in her lap
though but it did push the seat forward a tad - see the second pic (the seat is
leaned forward for the pic so the tire can be seen).
I've packed it many ways (like two tires in the passenger seat, one in the
spare tire well, one in the rear seat or three across the rear seat if it is
removed and one in the spare tire well with the passenger seat remaining free,
etc.). I guess I need to make a simple how-to guide on this.
The third pic shows what Moe might have been explaining and works since
Riyan also has a rear strut tower bar. I think the rear seat was removed
in that third pic and a tire was in the passenger seat but there *is* room on
top of the strut tower bar and tires in the rear seat for the 4th if the
passenger seat needs to be free. This car might have had the spare in it -
not sure.
- --Flash!
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 01:33:28 -0500
From: "Nick McDermott" <
eire1274@cox.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Passenger side driveshaft, VR-4
Ah, I spoke too soon. Went back out to the garage to double check the
misc. parts collection, and got on the creeper and slid under the car
again. Guess what? The passenger side frame member (the one you have
to remove to drop the trans.) is also absent. F'ing great.
Nick
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 07:12:23 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutch problems, big time...
I'd try bleeding the system. Sounds like your slave cylinder might be
going south. Be careful driving it like that because, if the slave
cylinder goes, you won't be shifting at all!
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 07:24:25 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutch problems, big time...
I can't make the pix out too clearly, but it looks like you are WAY low on
fluid, but also need to flush the system. If I were you, I'd fill it up,
bleed out about 1/2 bottle of fluid to flush it out, and then bleed the
system. See if that works. If the fluid is "goopy," then you
probably should remove the slave first, take it apart, clean it up manually, and
then flush and refill.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 07:30:22 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Passenger side driveshaft, VR-4
"Actually like $240." Actually, Nick, don't make that
assumption. The driver's side has a carrier bearing on it. The OEM
costs like $320.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 08:21:52 US/Eastern
From:
ratkins@cfl.rr.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
will the 4 stock wheels fit in the car?
Thanks to one of you guys (Flash?) for the following advice.
My preference (265x35x18 on 18x9 rims) is to remove the butt half of the
back
seat (pops in and out easily), lay down the shoulder half, remove the
spare
tire cover "board" (two screws on each of two hinge assemblies),
remove the
donut spare (seems a bit redundant with 4 full size spares in the
car), put one
wheel in the spare position and three side by side across the
laid down back
seat (I do not have a rear strut bar). I use a sheet to
"wrap" the three
standing tires to keep road rash/dirt off of ceiling and
front seat backs.
This leaves room for a "full size" passenger, helmet, jack, tools, clothes
for
the weekend, cooler, folding chairs and a bunch more stuff. You
just can't
pack in the big American tourister-pullman suitcase!!!!
Every time I pack up
like this it reminds me of the heritage of my
car. When I first got it, it had
the stance of a SUV!!!!!
badbob
'99VR-4
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 07:21:31 -0500
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch
problems, big time...
And these procedures are listed thoroughly in the trusty service
manuals?
-b
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 08:34:17 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@spamcop.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: will the 4 stock wheels fit in the car?
Right, Bob, there are many configurations to packing the car. I've
packed tires this way sometimes as well and it is far easier with the rear seat
removed. With a rollbar in place it really gives peace of mind about a
tire rolling forward at speed to nail the back of the driver's head - the
rollbar prevents and tire from doing so - a bonus of the bar that I had not
thought about before installing it.
However, with the rollbar in place the driver side of the rear seatback can
not lay down fully as it hits a portion of the rollbar (the harness bar portion
on my rollbar) so I have to get a little creative at times.
I have normally packed four 255/45/17 tires+wheels in the car but have also
fit the stock 245/40/18 tires+wheels as well. Don't forget - if you don't
need the passenger seat then either put two wheels there side-by-side. The
265-width ones might be close and might have to ride a bit on the console's edge
preventing you from shifting into 5th/6th/Reverse so try it out before driving
along and needing reverse all of a sudden (ask me how I know).
- --Flash!
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 08:51:51 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutch problems, big time...
I'm not sure how comprehensively it's covered. The slave is pretty
easy to locate. And after reading some of the other responses you got, and
your further descriptions, you probably should just replace it. It's not
all that expensive--like around $30 or so from the local parts store.
Judging also from your description of the "goop," I'm less confident that
this will solve your problem. Having particulates in the fluid is not
good, especially if you see them in the fill tube. But flushing, bleeding,
and filling may cure the problem, and it's the cheapest of the options you
have.
To do the job, remove the battery, battery tray and washer bottle.
You'll be able to see the slave quite clearly. It's right around the
vehicle speed sensor and has what looks like a brake line running to it.
Remove the brake lines, remove two bolts, and the slave comes right out.
Once you've taken the slave out, fill your system up and while you're holding
the brake line in a can to catch fluid, have someone SLOWLY work the clutch
pedal. There will be little, if any, resistance on the clutch pedal, and
you will need to fill the reservoir often, but keep doing that until the
fluid runs clear. Then put your new slave in.
Once you have the slave installed, bleeding it is similar to bleeding
brakes. Have someone push down on the clutch pedal, then open the bleeder,
close the bleeder, and then have your helper let up on the clutch pedal.
After you make sure your reservoir is full, do the procedure again, and again,
and again until you're confident that there's no air in the system.
Oh, and make sure you buy GOOD brake fluid, not the cheap stuff. The
cheap stuff is more apt to collect moisture, which is something you don't
want.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 13:10:44 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch problems, big time...
>> And these procedures are listed thoroughly in the trusty
service
>> manuals?
Yes, for the most part (assuming you are familiar with typical automotive
mechanics procedures and tools).
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 07:27:48 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
will the 4 stock wheels fit in the car?
And that boys and girls, is why I pull a trailer !!!!!
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 07:32:31 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Passenger side driveshaft, VR-4
Check the 3SI.org site --- several guys part out 3S cars and you should be
able to get it much cheaper. The problem with used if course is that you
take a chance on quality.
Jim Berry
================================================
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 07:48:12 -0700
From: Michael Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Team3S:
moisture in exhaust pipe
I'm wondering about moisture in the exhaust pipe at the end. I've watched
vehicles drip water from the tail pipe in the morning when everything is
cool. I'm wondering if it normal to develop moisture and drips during the
heat of the day and after the vehicle has been run for a while and is
hot.
Thanks.
- --------------------------------------------------------------
Michael
A. Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 10:51:03 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@spamcop.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: will the 4 stock wheels fit in the car?
I don't tow a trailer for several reasons: 1. I don't have one, 2. I don't
think a trailer can be towed safely at 80+ mph (like 115 mph) whereas the car
*can* be driven safely at this speed. Sure it weighs a little more but it
is very stable at these speeds.
Also, items can be stolen off of trailers like tools, wheels, etc. but a
car has an alarm and is covered by the insurance policy - maybe a note can be
added to also cover a trailer though.
- --Flash!
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 11:15:54 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch problems, big time...
Thank you Jeff, as always your page is a godsend =)
Brandon, flushing
will not fix your problem, it will only make it worse. What will happen is that
you will put new fresh fluid in there, and it will seep through the
already-existing leaks in your master cylinder. Then you will have clutch
fluid dripping inside your cabin and onto the carpet. Once you see fluid
inside the cabin, this -requires- that you replace the master cylinder.
Mine was not leaking until I did a flush and fill (while doing tranny work) and
caused the clutch master to begin leaking and the clutch pedal to react
poorly. I can't stress enough that the $78 and a bit of time will pay
off.
On the other hand, I do agree that the slave should be inspected at least,
and while you're at this at least pulled apart, and possibly rebuilt. Its
inexpensive and will save you time of doing this again. Check Jeff's page
for info and pictures of what we're talking about,
www.stealth316.com
Later
Ken
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 11:19:42 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: moisture in exhaust pipe
From my studies of vehicle emissions, I learnt that the catalytic converter
'converts' engine byproducts into normal compounds - nitrogen, carbon Dioxide,
and water. So, when the vehicle is cold, the water produced will not be
vaporized as much as when the exhaust is hot, so you will notice it more when
cold.
Similarly, the amount of white smoke/water should be minimal. If
you're seeing excessive of either, it may indicate head gasket or related
coolant problems.
Ken Stanton
91 Pearl White Stealth TT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 11:53:26 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutch problems, big time...
Ken wrote: "Brandon, flushing will not fix your problem, it will only
make it worse. . .I can't stress enough that the $78 and a bit of time will pay
off."
Ken makes some good points, but I'm not sure I agree that flushing
first will place you in any worse position that you are already in. I'd
try flushing first if you're strapped for cash. If you do, and the master
holds pressure, then you've lost nothing. If you do and the master leaks,
then you need to replace the master. If you don't try the flushing first,
you need to buy the master. So you're out nothing by trying flushing
first, except maybe some time and a few drips of brake fluid on your carpeting
if the master decides to blow. If it was me, judging from your
descriptions and the pictures, if I had the time and the cash, I'd probably take
Ken's advice and replace everything. But if your strapped for cash, you
might as well see whether the parts need to be replaced before replacing
them. JMHO.
------------------------------
Help! I'm stewing in my own juice.
92 3000GT SL, 150,000 miles, engine overhaul last winter including race
cams, oversize throttle body, ported & polished heads, and custom exhaust.
It idles fine (although a little fast because of cams) most of the time but when
the A/C is on it dies at stoplights. Is there an adjustment somewhere to
bump the idle up when the compressor is running? Or is there maybe a relay
not working? I have the service manual but can't make any sense out of the AC
section.
TIA
Jim W
92 SL
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 12:37:47 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Stalls at idle with A/C on
You're right, the car should bump up the idle when the A/C is on, so it
sounds that it is no longer doing that. I know in Pocketlogger you can
watch the switch go on and off regarding the a/c idle increase. But there
is a signal that goes from the ETACS (working from memory here) to the ECU that
does so, I tapped into it once. If that signal is not getting through then
there in lies the problem. Does the car idle/run ok otherwise? Do
you have pocketlogger or know anyone who does?
Ken Stanton
91 Pearl White Stealth TT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 11:46:13 -0500
From: "Nick McDermott" <
eire1274@cox.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Passenger side driveshaft, VR-4
Already priced it with a local auto parts store. OEM, remanufactured.
Given I can get a core refund for the driver's side, $240 for the pair.
Nick
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 13:12:15 -0700
From: "Guy, Michael (CS)" <
michael.guy@ngc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: What color is my car?
I keep hearing about a color called Sandstone that is only sprayed on about
218 cars out of all the model years.
I have a Champagne(sp?) colored car. But I don't know the exact paint code.
What color in normal terms is Sandstone?
Thanks,
Mike G.
92 Stealth SOHC
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 20:29:04 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: What color is my car?
On my/Mike's web page below
Mike Reid has extracted production numbers from the CAPS database organized
by color code, year, and model for Stealths. Look in your engine bay on a plate
on the firewall in front of the driver's seat to get the color (paint) code for
your car.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 13:59:06 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: O2
sensor question
I was looking up a number in CAPS for a guy and it only shows one O2 sensor
for the 91 turbo --- corrections anyone ???
At least I only get one part number and a quantity of 1 for the 90/91
build, later build dates show 2 or 4.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 14:04:01 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: O2
sensor question
disregard message --- I just checked again and got both numbers this
time.
Jim
====================================================
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 14:53:59 -0700
From: Tim Hackett <
tim@darksoft.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Stock Alarm not working
I have recently purchased a 95\' Mitsu 3000GT (BASE). It seemed like
the previous owner screwed around with some electrical stuff as he left cables
for audio connected to the battery and throughout the car. I've setup a
aftermarket cdplayer and gotten it to work, but I cannot figure out if the stock
alarm is still in the car and if it is how to get it to work. The keys
have a remote with 2 buttons and a red led. Thanks
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 17:49:22 -0400
From:
Songsay@cs.comSubject: Team3S: power
steering
I have a 92 vr4 and was driving around a corner when I heard a low thump.
Now my power steering fights against me when the car is not moving, or is moving
slow, it has plenty of fluid, nothing is bent, belt is good. Anyone have
experience with difficult steering while stationary or at low parking lot
speed?
songsay
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 16:52:23 -0500
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Part
pricing
I'm sure someone can field this one for me... Does anyone know the going
rate of RT sailpanels, and also the expected price of some 2nd gen 3KGT
sideskirts and doorcaps? For anyone in the STL area, where is the best place to
get parts from? I've tried Kevin Williams at
www.stealth3000gtparts.com, but he
doesn't have any. I get a bit inundated when trying to look at the
junkyards listed on the Team3S site, at which their "inventory search engine"
fails to provide me with anything... Thanks for any help.
-b
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 22:06:08 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Part pricing
Actually Brandon, that's a tough one. Those aren't commonly purchased
parts. You should search parts for sale, such as on 3si.org, and it may take
some time. I also use a website at
www.partznet.com - click the parts catalog on
the left, and select the Mitsu 3000gt. That'll give you an idea at least,
for any part for that matter. I would imagine those parts will be $300-500
from a dealer. Sounds like a project! (and weren't we just having a
discussion about cash??)
Ken
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#189
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