Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, June 24
2003 Volume 02 : Number 188
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Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 18:15:30 -0400
From: Ved <
1994TT@comcast.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Getting a set of Diamond forged pistons for my 94 TT?????
I just came back from a machine shop. I dropped off my block and the
rods and pistons with it. I am getting the block rebored (possibly 93
mm). I am getting a set of Diamond forged pistons, are they good pistons
because they will cost me only $600. My rods still look good and so is the
cranks shaft. The guy in the shop told me that I don't have to replace the rods
and that the crank shaft will have to be cleaned only. Anyone knows anything
about these pistons???? Any thoughts on reusing the stock rods and cranks
shaft???
------------------------------
When I had everything apart to do the timing belt, I painted the upper
timing covers. But for some reason the paint is just chipping off. I
used VHT Brake Caliper paint, mainly because of the high temp
capabilities. Maybe it is not good for plastic.
Anyone know good paint to use on the upper timing covers ?
I had so much fun doing the timing belt, I felt like doing it again.
Just kidding. I did something wrong when I replaced the front oil seal and
not it is leaking. So I get to do it all over again. Hopefully I can
do it without removing the timing belt completely.
------------------------------
Ditto for me on Zymol. I have been using their wax since I got my car
a few years ago and it is absolutely fantastic.
I use the cleaner first, after washing with Zymol Car Wash of course.
The cleaner removes and surface oxidation and any dirt that is left over from
washing. It is actually a decent was in itself.
Then I follow up with their Carbon Wax for the metal parts, and their
Detail Wax for the flexible parts. The Detail Wax has more oils in it to
keep the paint on the flexible parts from cracking.
If you go there, you can even get the car club discount. I set us up
a long time ago with Melissa Dudley and they are great.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 19:33:13 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Help identifying rotors
Not a clue --- I'd be positively amazed if anyone would guarantee against
warping. It's like providing a guarantee on a performance engine --- you have no
idea how it'll be treated. There is no such thing as an iron rotor that will not
warp --- you abuse it and it'll bend.
Jim Berry
====================================================
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 19:37:07 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
paint for upper timing covers
Not likely --- I'm assuming those covers are thermal plastic and as such
are almost impossible to paint. Having just said that I recall a commercial that
claims to be able to paint plastic patio furniture and toys --- don't remember
the name -- one of the big canned spray paint companies ?!?!?!
Jim Berry
==============================================
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 22:02:55 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Checking for boost leaks?
Easy way to do that with the valve stem.... Drill a hole the exact
size of the hole in any common wheel into a flat piece of plastic... Pull
a valve stem through it just like you would a wheel....
(no, I don't know the exact dimensions, but would guess at 3/8")
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 20:07:54 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Getting a set of Diamond forged pistons for my 94 TT?????
IMHO overboring to 93 mm is overkill --- The gains over a .030" overbore
are minimal and it's the maximum you can go. The next rebuild will require a new
block.
Never heard of diamond pistons but there are a lot of companies out there
making forged pistons --- I went with Venolia who makes pistons for NHRA and
others. Price with tool steel pins, locks and rings was about $700.
The crank and rods are both forged and if not damaged are a great
combination. I'd send them to a crank shop for checking plus the rotating
assembly should be balanced. If the crank is turned for any reason it should be
nitrided.
Jim Berry
==============================================
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 22:26:39 -0500
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: paint
for upper timing covers
Yeah, I think it was Krylon. If I remember correctly, they claim that the
paint actually chemically bonds to the plastic or something like that... I
dunno, it's been awhile since I've taken Chemistry, but it's something along
those lines...
-b
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 00:02:01 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Help identifying rotors
finally figured it out, thanks to a fellow 3Si-R member who helped me pick
them out. They're from Raceconcepts. Thanks!
Ken
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 00:23:20 -0500
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Reverse
switch
Ok, I must be an idiot or something, but I sure can't find that elusive
"reverse switch" that's allegedly mounted on the tranny to save my life.
Granted, it was dark outside, and my trusty flashlight isn't quite comparable to
daylight, but still, I didn't see hide nor hair of this "switch". Perhaps
someone managed to take a picture of it? Maybe Jeff L? This would be a great
opportunity to get it on stealth316 if not! haha. Please let me know, I need my
backup lights as I'm getting re-tinted tomorrow and seeing out the backglass at
night will be a bia-bia!! Thanks.
-b
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 09:22:56 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Reverse switch
It ("backup light switch") is a few inches above the fill plug (at least on
W5MG1). Pics are already available on my web page below.
- ---------- Original Message -------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003
00:23:20 -0500
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth (UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
<snip>I sure can't find that elusive "reverse switch" that's
allegedly mounted on the tranny <snip>
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 07:38:43 -0500
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: paint for upper timing covers
Anthony,
I painted mine and the paint it still holding. Here's what I
did.
I started by using a very rough grit sand paper, Like 80 grit or something
on them to rough them up. I tried to be as random as possible while doing
this so that once it was finished, it didn't look like someone had just sanded
them and painted them. NEXT, I used a primer on them, waited for that to
dry, sanded that with a finer grit sandpaper (probably 150) to get rid of most
of the raised areas from the first sanding. After the second sanding, I
used a tack cloth to get rid of dust particles on the surface. For a third time,
I primed, sanded (with emery cloth this time), and used a tack cloth one last
time. FINALLY, I painted with plain old black spray paint, probably Krylon
or Rustoleum.
I knew I'd have an impossible time trying to get paint to stick to plastic,
but I also know that you stand a much better chance if that paint, well, in this
case, primer, has a very rough surface to "grab on" to. You PROBABLY don't
need two coats of primer, but I did it just for the heck of it.
I only painted the TOP covers for the timing belt, since you can't really
see the lower cover unless you really work to see it.
Hope this helps.
- -Jeff
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 12:42:22 -0000
From: Kopsick Michael J Contr
WRALC/LJET <
Michael.Kopsick@robins.af.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: paint for upper timing covers
They now sell paint specifically for plastic...krylon makes it....
------------------------------
Krylon has a new paint out that is suppose to stick to plastic. Hi
temp paint won't stick, ask me how I know. I have seen the Krylon at the
local ACE Hardware store, but I have not tried it out yet. By the way
don't use the local ACE brand paint for anything, it is really watered down and
a mess to use.
Dan Labonte
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 07:43:59 -0700
From: Andy <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Wax Brand Recommendations
I have tried Griotts, and just about every other finish. I even have one
that costs 78 bucks for a small plastic bottle. Nothing works like Zaino. Just
my opinion, but based on years of experimentation. The next best is
Nu-Finish, and it is certainly the easiest to use.
Andy
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 08:35:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: glenn vrfour <
vr4glenn@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Checking for boost leaks?
If you go to a performance shop, they should have
metal valve stems that
are threaded. Drill the hole,
poke it thru, attach nut from other
side.
How do I know? It holds 100psi on my potato cannon
;-)
Glenn
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 11:44:26 -0500
From: Matt Costanza <
mcostanza@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Leak in coolant system + temp gauge
I have a 97 NA. SL. I noticed about a month ago that my coolant level
light was on. I found the coolant containment to be at the low level. I
filled it with water and after another six or several trips in the car,
the coolant level light came on again.
I have filled it up once again and
inspected to see if I can find any
leaks. None were found.
Anyone have any idea how I can troubleshoot this? I don't see any water
leaking from anywhere (hoses, water pump etc). My assumption is I have a
small pinhole leak in my radiator.
One other anomaly I have found is my temp gauge says about one notch
below half way regardless of where my coolant level is or how hard I
drive the car. Even if I put the AC on and drive the car hard, the temp
gauge always stays at one notch below halfway.
Is this normal or do I have a temp gauge that is not working
properly?
Regards,
- --
Matt Costanza
Austin, Tx USA
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 10:01:41 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Leak in coolant system + temp gauge
> I have a 97 NA. SL. I noticed about a month ago that my coolant
level
> light was on. I found the coolant containment to be at the
> low level. I filled it with water and after another six or
several trips
> in the car, the coolant level light came on
again.
> I have filled it up once again and inspected to see if I can find
any
> leaks. None were found.
>
> Anyone have any idea how I
can troubleshoot this?
How many miles are on your car? Two of the three 3000GTs I've owned
developed leaks near the water pump between 50,000 miles and 60,000 miles.
On one of them, the leak was extremely small initially - such that it only
leaked under pressure and it all evaporated by the time I parked the car.
I've also heard of many other 3/Ss with water pump problems. Look under
the engine around where the crank pulley is and see if you see any coolant
residue.
> One other anomaly I have found is my temp gauge says about one
notch
> below half way regardless <...>
>
> Is
this normal or do I have a temp gauge that is not working properly?
Probably normal, assuming it's on the low end when the car is cold and then
rises to that position within a few miles of driving. There's a VERY wide
range of actual coolant temperatures that will make the stock gauge read about 3
o'clock.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 11:01:20 -0600
From: Gabe Simoes <
Gabe92RTTT@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Leak in coolant system + temp gauge
As long as you see your temp gauge rise when the car starts to warm up
I don't think there is a problem with it. If its stuck reading in the
middle when you first start the car after a long sitting, then you
might
have a problem. It shouldn't rise above midway on the gauge
unless you are
awfully low on coolant, then it will shoot up quite
quickly. :)
About the coolant disappearing, maybe your motor was just a little
more
thirsty than you thought? I have filled mine when the light came
on,
and then had to add a little more later on as it made its way
thorough the
entire system.
Gabe Simoes
1992 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo
- - K&N, EGR BlockOffs, Port & Polished Heads, Ported Manifolds,
Wiseco
Forged Pistons, GTPro 347s, MBC, DN Y-Pipe, TurboXS RFL, Stillen DP,
3SX Crank Pulley, RPS MAX street disk, Tunerstein Data, SAFC, Walbro
255lph, ARM-1, Weight Redux
- - '99 Lifters & 450cc's on the
shelf
------------------------------
Check the upper radiator hose where it connects to the thermostat housing.
Look at the housing for evidence of leaks (like corrosion). It may only
leak here when the thermostat is open (operating temperature) and coolant is
flowing through the upper hose. Then it doesn't leave a pool of fluid
under the car.
If there is coolant under the car on the driver's side, suspect the water
pump.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
One way to find small coolant leaks is to wrap all suspected hoses in white
paper towels. Leaks will show up.
Rich
>Anyone have any idea how I can troubleshoot this? I don't see any
water
>leaking from anywhere (hoses, water pump etc). My assumption is I
have a
>small pinhole leak in my radiator.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 12:14:44 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S:
pocketlogger disables ABS... anything else?
My ABS doesn't work anyway. I don't need or want it for AutoX so
that's fine. But does "diagnostic mode" disable or screw with anything
else? Can I leave this thing hooked in all the time?
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 15:20:31 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: pocketlogger disables ABS... anything else?
It only "disables" ABS. Actually, it places it in diagnostic
mode. However, there's a fix for this so you can keep it plugged in all
the time without the ABS light coming on, and without placing the ABS in
diagnostic mode. The "fix" depends on when you bought the pocket
logger. I can't for the life of me recall what the fix is right now
(something about cutting a jumper wire in the harness and connecting a switch to
it). Let me know if you (or anyone else) wants me to hunt down the fix,
and I'll do so.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 12:32:30 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Leak in coolant system + temp gauge
You might want to check the radiator cap (mine was pretty bad - $7 at
autozone), and also fill it up directly through the cap and keep squeezing the
upper hose to get out extra air. I kept filling the overflow tank on mine,
and it kept running hot, like 3/4 on the gauge. The radiator was ice cold
on some spots and would burn your fingers on other spots, so I had it sent in to
this special place that cleans them all out (they said it was 55% blocked
up). Then when everything got put back in, my mechanic noticed a small
leak from the water pump area.... well I had to get the timing belt changed
anyways, also replaced thermostat. Car is a 94 R/T, and I never noticed
any leaks after parking it. I guess the water pump must've been leaking
when it was just started, and then after it heated up it stopped leaking, so
when I parked I never saw any leaks except the condensation from the A/C.
Maybe try taking it out for just like a 1 mile drive, then park it and
check for leaks while it's still cool/warm before it's all the way at operating
temp. My guess is that it's the water pump, they seem to develop leaks
before the radiators do.
- -Erik
94 R/T
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 17:03:48 -0500
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Clutch
problems, big time...
Ok, so I'm coming home from getting my windows tinted today, and I notice
"Hmph, seems to be shifting kinda funny, I must be a little rusty after waiting
so long..." But then I realized what the problem was, my engage point has moved
a considerable amount closer to the floor, like almost on the floor, and there's
a good deal of "mush" in the clutch before it begins to resist my foot. Since
I'm not one who's been into my clutch, or anything transmission related, I have
no idea where to look. Please point me in the right direction, I don't want my
trans to blow up or anything... How much does it cost to replace a clutch
anyways?
-b
P.S. I found my reverse lights switch!
Thanks for the help!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2003 19:26:11 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch problems, big time...
Well, it sounds more hydraulic than mechanical, so I would start with those
parts. The clutch master is in the back right corner under the hood
(standing at the front bumper). It has a small plastic reservoir on the
top, and a silver body below it. Inspect it for any leaks and fluid level.
Also, check up under the dash (inside the car) in the clutch pedal area for any
leaks.
If that provides nothing interesting, you should check the slave which
would be down under the throttle body (back left-center under the hood) directly
on top of the transmission. If you have a TT, give yourself some time to
remove a few air pipes to get a look at it. It has a small rubber boot on
it that goes to the clutch fork of the transmission. Also, have someone
push the clutch pedal for you and watch its movement. I've been told it
should travel 0.5"
Let us know if you find anything interesting, from your description it
sounds hydraulic.
Ken Stanton
91 Pearl White Stealth TT with brand new clutch master
cylinder =)
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#188
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