Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, June 21
2003 Volume 02 : Number 185
----------------------------------------------------------------------
FAQ - this is known as "hunting" when the ECU cannot adjust the idle
properly for whatever reason, it defaults to double the normal idle rpm.
Then it tries to reduce the rpm to the proper idle level, over and over
again.
300-400 is way too low for normal curb idle. With the a/c turned OFF, the
idle should be something like 700 +/-50 rpm. Double the normal curb idle
is 1400-1500. With the a/c on, the idle is increased to something like 1000 rpms
(don't quote me - check the service manual).
Easiest thing to do is readjust the curb idle - see the service manual
section 00 on routine maintenance.
Also, check the condition of the hoses in the engine compartment - leaks in
these can cause erratic idle even with a good IDC and TPS.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 10:20:12 -0400
From: "Arthurs Family" <
arthursfam@madbbs.com>
Subject:
Fw: Team3S: Problem in pulling the short block out, HELP!!!!
> I took my engine out by the book, i.e. remove the transfer case
&
> transmission through the bottom then pull engine from the top.
What a
> fun time that was! Thanks to Jeff & others who showed me the
light, we
> replaced engine, trans, & tc from above as a unit after
rebuild! Took
> about 6 hours to remove (by the book) and 15
minutes to drop in (by
> the Jeff). Second the opinion, don't even try
without the load
> leveler!
>
> Same offer to use our
hoist/leveler if you're in the Jamestown, NY
> area.
>
> In
retrospect, the project looked most intimidating when started, but
> was
really quite easy from then on. And the thing is still running
>
after 2000 miles & $2500!!
>
> Best wishes to you on this
"learning experience".
>
> Jon Arthurs
> Jamestown, NY
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 10:19:48 -0400
From: "Arthurs Family" <
arthursfam@madbbs.com>
Subject:
Fw: Team3S: exhaust tip
> Exhaust tips = $37 each (MB857021) or carry around a small
ratchet
> wit a 10mm socket attached...you're bound to find one parked
> somewhere.....
>
> Jon Arthurs
> Jamestown, NY
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 10:53:25 -0400
From: "Williams, Tommy F" <
WilliamsTF@bernstein.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: exhaust tip
Get them tack welded on........ One of mine has flat heat screws in
it and they are not galvanized. Good luck taking one of mine.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 09:06:10 -0600
From: Gabe Simoes <
Gabe92RTTT@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: exhaust tip
Pick one up on 3Si or here used. They usually go for $10 piece or
less.
Gabe Simoes
1992 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo
- - K&N, EGR BlockOffs, Port & Polished Heads, Ported Manifolds,
Wiseco
Forged Pistons, GTPro 347s, MBC, DN Y-Pipe, TurboXS RFL, Stillen DP,
3SX Crank Pulley, RPS MAX street disk, Tunerstein Data, SAFC, Walbro
255lph, ARM-1, Weight Redux
- - '99 Lifters & 450cc's on the
shelf
------------------------------
Anybody know where I can get my hot little hands on one of those European
front mount washer fluid containers? I looked at the one 3SX has and it is
too small for road racing being only 1.5 qts. I would like the 1.5 gallon
type for my Water/Methanol system which I would like to install before
NG'03.
Thanks
Dan Labonte
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 12:04:47 -0400
From:
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.comSubject:
Team3S: re: Front Wheel Bearing Replacement (long)
It was suggested that I should post this rather than a link to it. It's
kinda long, but is based on my experience with this "easy" job ;-)
Enjoy.
For those of you who attempt to replace the front wheel bearings on your TT
or VR4, don't let anyone convince you this is an easy job!!! The front bearings
on the AWD cars are a sealed bearing/hub assembly. This means that you have to
remove the hub from the steering knuckle and replace the entire hub assy. Sounds
easy enough.....unless your car is 10 years old with billions of miles on
it!!!
First of all, after you bruise your knuckles trying to remove the brake
calipers, you'll find that the nuts securing the tie rod end and the lower ball
joint to the knuckle assy will be rusted in place. And if you're lucky, you'll
be able to remove the nuts without the whole joint assy turning in it's socket!
Then you'll bang your thumb a few times with the 12 pound sledge hammer that you
are using to drive in the ball-joint separator tool. Once the joints pop loose,
you'll discover that you've ripped open the grease boots and ruined them, so
it'll only be a matter of time before you have to go back and replace both
joints!
Next, now that the knuckle assy is loose, you'll realize that you haven't
yet loosened the big nut that holds the driveshaft onto the hub. So you have to
re-attach the ball joint and tie-rod end to brace the hub while you apply the
200 ft-lbs of torque required to loosen the nut. Now that your hands are bruised
and bleeding, and you've pulled a muscle in your back, you have to loosen the 4
bolts that hold the hub assy to the back side of the steering knuckle. These
bolts were originally torqued to about 75 ft-lbs, but have now rusted in place
and require about 200 ft-lbs of torque to get them loose! Be prepared to bruise
and scrape your elbow during this process. Once you get these bolts off, and
pulled another muscle in your back, the easy part is finished!
Now you have to remove the old hub assy from the steering knuckle. It's
rusted in place too. So you have to lay on your aching back, reach around behind
the hub, and try and aim at it with your 12-pound hammer, taking care not to
damage the ABS sensor that resides in the knuckle assy. You've also decided that
maybe a little WD40 and some heat from a propane torch might loosen things up a
bit. But your torch runs out of gas and you use up all the WD40, but not before
the torch sets fire to all the WD40 you sprayed on there!
Finally, once the smoke clears, and after continuing to beat the crap
out of the backside of the hub with no results, you decide to remove the entire
hub & knuckle assy from the car so you can take it to a shop and have them
press the hub out for you. But before you can do this, you MUST remove the ABS
sensor, and of course, it's rusted in place too, and you break it off while
trying to pry it out!!! So now that you've got the whole assy out of the car,
you give it one last try and hit it 3 times with the hammer, and the hub pops
right out!
After you assemble the new hub and get everything back together, you
realize that 6 hours have passed already, and you still have to replace the
bearing on the other side! But surprisingly enough, now that you know what to
do, the other side only takes about 45 minutes, and you didn't even have to
remove the knuckle assy from the car!!!
Now that the job's all finished, you ignore the ABS warning light and
take the car for a test drive and notice a scraping sound that you didn't
hear when you turned the wheels by hand. So you crawl back under the car again
and find that you bent the dust shields at some point and they're scraping the
rotors! What are these things for anyway?!?
As the car's running great, and you're patting yourself on the back for
saving yourself all the money that a dealer would have charged, you go to the
store and spend half that money on beer to ease the pain from all your
injuries!!! And eventually you spend the other half on ball joints, tie rod
ends, and a new ABS sensor!
Oh what fun it is to do your own work!!! (But you know you love
it!!!).
------------------------------
On the same topic, does anyone know for sure whether you can disassemble
the hub/bearing unit and replace the bearings?
I have a couple of old ones in the garage that otherwise I will toss.
Chuck
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 17:36:12 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Washer Fluid Container
I bought mine from Roger Gerl (Rtec; Switzerland). It holds almost exactly
1 gallon. I mounted it under a '92 Stealth bumper cover with no problems.
Eventually I will get a web page made about this. :)
Rather than using a mechanical seal where needed I used a relatively new 3M
product called DP-8005.
The tank is polypropylene (SPI Code 5, same as most gallon milk/water jugs)
and there are no glues, epoxies, adhesives or any other sealant that will adhere
to it. Except DP-8005 (I have also used it to glue Teflon to Delrin!).
I purchased a new low-fluid level sensor from Mitsu and installed it in the
predrilled hole already there for it (same sensor as in the washer tank under
the battery tray). I plan to wire it into the washer tank circuit so that the
dash light will turn on if either tank is low.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 10:58:21 -0600 (MDT)
From: Jim Floyd <
jim_floyd7@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Re: Team3S: Washer Fluid Container
Perhaps we should put together a group buy as I would like one as
well.
Jim Floyd
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 11:01:03 -0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Re: Team3S: Washer Fluid Container
I might be interested in a group buy, depending on price...
- - Brian
------------------------------
I don't understand. What's so special about this particular water
tank that nothing in the US will do as a reservoir? Is it just designed to
fit in some special space in the front of the car?
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 18:33:38 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Washer Fluid Container
Look at the pic below
and on Rogers web site
www.rtec.ch . The
tank fits on the bumper reinforcement bar under the front bumper cover. Just
empty space on USA models. The tank is used in Europe for the headlight washers
present on Euro-models.
The nice things are that it takes up no room in the engine bay, holds 1
gallon of fluid, and can be wired up easily for a low-fluid level warning
light.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 11:34:13 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Re: Team3S: Washer Fluid Container
> I don't understand. What's so special about this particular
water
> tank that nothing in the US will do as a reservoir? Is it
just
> designed to fit in some special space in the front of the
car?
It fits under the front bumper cover in [normally] unused space. It
holds just a hair shy of a full gallon and can be easily plumbed into any kind
of water-consuming system (IC sprayers, Brake Sprayers, Water Injection,
etc.).
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 11:43:12 -0700
From: "James Mutton" <
james@playstream.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Washer Fluid Container
I used the 3SX version (radiator overflow) for the Intercooler sprayers on
the car now. I had to fab some mounting system for it, as there was
nothing on the car to mount that one too. It fits nicely but again doesn't
mount to anything (at least not on my 95). I ended up building some little
brackets to hold it in place.
The small version works well for me just because I don't use the sprayers
that often so keeping it full isn't a problem. The low level sensor would
have been nice though. If I had to do it again I'd get the bigger
version.
- -James
95 Green VR4
------------------------------
I know this has got to be a stupid question, but is this tank blocking the
airflow to the radiator?
I've had the bumper cover off my '94 once, but it was 3 years ago.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 18:50:16 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Washer Fluid Container
What Erik and I have forgot to mention is that 1998 and 1999 models use
this space for a coolant overflow tank, freeing up the space in the engine bay.
This USA 1998-1999 coolant tank would be another option.
For comparison.
4.0 qts = "Eurotank"
2.1 qts = front windshield washer tank
2.0 qts =
1998-1999 coolant overflow tank
1.3 qts = rear window washer tank
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 18:56:57 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Washer Fluid Container
No. The airflow goes under the reinforcement bar. The disadvantages I can
see for this tank are 1) it is hard to get to in case of repair (better do it
right first time) and 2) it adds about 9 pounds of weight (when full) way in
front of the center of gravity (minor issue at worst).
Besides the advantages I have mentioned before, it is easy to fill.
:)
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 12:28:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: glenn vrfour <
vr4glenn@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
euro washers [was] Washer Fluid Container
Does anyone have pictures of the European version
headlamp
washers? I'm curious to see what they look
like.
Thanks,
Glenn
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 15:39:21 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
philip@supercar-engineering.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Where's the cigar lighter fuse?
Maybe someone could tell me what to look for. My both power outlets are
toast.
I blew the cigar lighter fuse several times with faulty accessories. Last
time something else blew but the fuse stayed undamaged. I guess I will need
to check all the wiring harnesses there.
I cannot find which fuse is for the power outlet under the stereo, I want
to check it too.
Philip
------------------------------
The local tire/suspension shop that I had originally checked with didn't
offer me that good of a deal. They wanted to charge me $350 for one bearing! And
then they wanted another $100 to install it! So I bought both bearings from
Rockville Mitsu for $125 and installed them myself! However, I did get my
hands dirty....and bloody!
Jeff W.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 17:49:08 -0400
From: "Dennis r. Ninneman" <
dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Redundancy
I don't know that racing applications apply ........... they're really
not trying to make the most HP while staying neighborhood friendly. I
do have to admit, the mush theory re: turbos is accurate. During my
stint at GM Research (a long time ago) they were doing some weird things
with smaller exhausts .......... making more horse than larger. All
about velocity. Pulse timing was only a part of it.
Does anyone have true duals that can comment on hearing/feeling pulses
at the tailpipe at least at idle?
Dennis -==- Philly
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 15:31:00 -0700
From: "Ioan Raicu" <
iraicu@cs.wayne.edu>
Subject: RE:
RE: Team3S: Apex'i S-AFC II
Thank you to all who answered for all the feedback and comments on the
S-AFC II. I suppose I will hold off for now, but it seems that the S-AFC
II is a real interesting toy :) and worth buying.
John Raicu
94 Yellow TT
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 19:05:05 -0400
From: "Dennis r. Ninneman" <
dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Blowing' smoke - Turbo? Rings?
Pressure in the crankcase ................... what's the pressure (PSI)
in this condition? I'm sure this has been measured. What is the
operating crankcase pressure tolerances (1 - 3 PSI; 2 - 5 PSI)? What's
the book say about this? Great info.
Dennis -==- Philly
------------------------------
I may have to replace the pulleys for the A/C belt as one squeals like
crazy all the time. It has done so since I put the belts back on. I
painted the pulleys to get rid of some of the rust, maybe I got some paint in
the bearings or whatever.
If it does not stop squealing I may have to replace it. If I am going
to replace one pulley I may as well replace both.
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks all
------------------------------
I need to top off my A/C system and was wondering if anyone could tell me
what the proper range for refrigerant is ?
The recharge kit I bought just says it should be between 25-44 psi on the
low pressure side. But I wanted to get the specifics for my 1997
VR-4.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 20:29:33 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
part numbers for A/C pulleys
A buddy had the same problem after an engine swap --- much squealing and
carrying on. We thought it was a pulley but he finally just tightened the belt
some
more and the noise stopped. Overtightening is not a good thing but you
might
check the book and see what it recommends for tightening the
belt.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 22:17:49 -0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Re: Team3S: Washer Fluid Container
I too need one for my little water injection project, I was just guna go
with the one 3SX sells, but this sounds like a better idea right? Donald Ashby
'93 3000GT VR-4 (RIP) '92 3000GT VR-4 (Vroom!) "Don't drink and park, accidents
cause people!"
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2003 22:17:23 -0700
From: "Courtney Bennett" <
courtney_b80@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: knocking under the passenger side floor board
When I hit the breaks there is a single knock under the floor board of the
passenger side. Has anyone experienced this before?
Courtney '93 ES
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 09:42:42 +0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: part numbers for A/C pulleys
Alternator-A/C Lower Tensioner Pulley MD630326 ("AC Compressor
Tensioner
Pulley")
- --> MD630326 should be MB630326 which is replaced
by MR360357 $70.85
Alternator-A/C Upper Tensioner Pulley MD161716/MD318474 ("Alternator
Tensioner Pulley")
- --> MD318474 $35.14
*** Team3S, 3SI #0030, GTOUK #155
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System K&N FIPK, Apex'i Super AVC-R Mk1 (1.0
bar @ 64% BADC) Apex'i Turbo Timer, Blitz Super Blow-Off Valve Magnecor spark
plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery Redline synth fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer
& diff= SPHvy) PF cryoed rotors, R4S pads, SS lines w/SBs, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec,
1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph 1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft
torque
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 05:08:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 92 Stealth TT 4 sale
Hi all,
Year : 1992 Dodge Stealth TT
Mint Condition ,garaged and
covered
Vin.No JB3XE74C7NY -- 027476
Twin Turbo , All Wheel
Drive
Mileage : 9000
Color : Mystic Blue Metallic
Interior : Gray
leather
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 17:25:05 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Washer Fluid Container
Sorry guys for not stepping in earlier .. .I was just too busy.
Everything is 100% correct what has been told yet. I just add my 2 cents
and can maybe offer a group buy depending on how many really want one. Shipping
to one person in the US will be much cheaper than shipping one to each
individual :-)
For the tank, it consists of several parts that have to ordered from Japan
directly using the European CAPS. US dealers can't because their ordering system
do not recognise the part numbers. The filler part is extendable so filling it
up is made easily. Also the level sensor Jeff spoke about directly fits into the
hole at the bottom. It is the same part as used in the washer bottle underneath
the battery. Just get one from the salvage yard as it should be the same in all
the Mitsus and Hyundai. It is also interconnected to the level sensor from the
washer tank so one sees when this tank in the bumper gets empty. on the other
side there is room for the headlight washer pump. It is damn expensive because
it is a high pressure pump ... whatever this means *LOL*. I had to close this
hole with epoxy that bounds to PVC and it worked very well. No problems since
years.
Please note, that the bottle may interfere with FMICs that also need to cut
the bumper bar as it sits on it. Another disadvantage is that it is not cooled
when driving as the bumper cover does not let any air to it. Maybe one has an
idea on how to do this. For those with an aftermarket bumper that has slits or
holes there, it is to mention that the bottle becomes visible. It's bare white
and this may not look really great but the water gets cooled. Painting it black
would help in look too.
Now for the pricing. Due to the low US$ currency the part may be expensive.
I'd say about $65 complete with filler parts without shipping. I can check the
right pricing on Monday with Mitsu. I'm not getting any discount from the dealer
when I take 2 or 20 but as said, shipping will be much cheaper when sent in a
big bulk.
If anyone would be interested in getting the package and then sends it out
to the members of the group buy should get in touch with me. Payment should be
done to him then that includes shipping to the individuals. Another option is,
that all who are interested are order it directly over my webpage (I can take
MasterCard and VISA soon) but then shipping may be 25% of the cost of the tank
:-( I will let you know next week when I have the new 2003 prices.
Hope that helps
Roger G.
93 & 96 3000GT TT
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#185
***************************************
