Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, June 20
2003 Volume 02 : Number 184
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 03:58:48 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Apex'i S-AFC II
I've got the S-AFC-II, and it's been a real pain installing it and setting
it up. You were off the list for a while so you missed several discussions
about it within the past several weeks. (Check the Archive page and
download the zip files for May and June Digests. Then unzip in a directory
and use your
Search or Find feature to read the posts. Suggested
search term: "AFC").
The wiring installation for a 1st gen is on our website
(see the FAQ Index Page - it's listed in the Mods Section). It will be
easy to change the one or two pin numbers from the ECU harness diagrams in the
manual to make the instructions work for a 2nd gen 3S.
The main problem is that the unit has not been officially released in the
US by Apex'i, so instruction in English are not easy to come by. I finally
got some from Russ Furman, who (generously!) faxed me all 74 pages(!) of a
translation (of sorts), and I managed to figure out enough of it to do a coarse
set up. But you need a datalogger to make it work effectively and safely
with bigger turbos, etc., (and I needed a dyno, too, and I'm still not
done...). If you understand datalogging (I don't), you might have an
easier time than I did. The S-AFC-II knock readout means nothing, so just
assume that it doesn't read knock on our cars.
[I just read Cody's post before sending this, and unlike his suggestion, I
did
*not* see a relative value that I could use (but with his knowledge of
datalogging, he might). I saw one of those "holy crap" knock counts of 56
at the same time that the AWD dyno said "zero" knock and off-scale rich.
It could be that I don't know what I'm doing, or that Cody can make it work -
both are probably true.]
The S-AFC-II is a great unit..., now that it's installed and close to being
set up. But I wouldn't have bought it if I had known that it was sold
without instructions, and without recommended settings for our cars. Wait
until English instructions are available before you buy it, since these are just
too hard to read and understand. It will not have recommended settings for
our cars - my version didn't...
Good luck,
Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 06:12:36 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Apex'i S-AFC II
Problem here Bob... there are no recommended settings for ANY Car out
there... Apex'i has horrid support online other than "what does what" For
the longest time I had to "assume" how parts worked of the S-AFC I that I have
in my AWD Talon.
As far as instructions go, good luck... You better be REAL good at
"figuring things out" Don't worry Bob, I had the same problems as you when
I first installed my S-AFC. Basically, wiring diagram and a chart of what
does what is all the AFC's come with. No settings, or even baseline
settings.
When setting up the knock monitor on the Apex'i unit, First, you have to
enable it, then you need a datalogger to compare output, and "force"
knock. When knock occurs, either your passenger or you (with someone else
driving) will need to record the frequency value displayed by the S-AFC.
Set the baseline frequency at just below where knock was shown by the
datalogger. From now on, knock counts will be displayed on the AFC.
Anytime the knock sensor hears more "noise" than your baseline, knock will be
displayed on the S-AFC 2. Here's where it gets tricky - the S-AFC2 and the
ECU have different "scales", but in all honesty, we don't care if its 10 or 12
counts, it's too much. You can however distinguish the difference between
small amounts and large amounts of knock, which is really what's most
important.
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 14:16:56 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Apex'i S-AFC II
Yes, I installed one before it was officially released ... sometimes it's
good to be a dealer *lol*.
Installation was quite easily, about the same as with the older one as you
said... no big deal at all. Of course I only need it for fine tuning the
ARC II that was absolutely not tunable after installing 368s and ported
heads, intake, manifolds and, and, and.
Regarding knock, there is much more than you think and what the S-AFC II is
showing is only a part of the knock. You have to filter out the engines
noise first. This noise is changing in its volume that rises with rpm. Even
more, knock sensing must be synchronized with the ignition firing point.
There is a window in each sequence where the knock sensor is read.
Everything else is not knock but noise. What the AFC does is to read the
level of noise at 3000rpm where you say that there is no knock. So every
noise below this level will be ignored. It then simply counts the voltage
pulses above this level during a specific time (don't know this frame) what
is calculated with the rpm reading what then ends in a knock sum.
Using an oscilloscope to analyze will not do the job at all. For this you
must use a spectrum analyzer where the specific sound can be isolated.
The bad thing is that you don't know how much is good, average and bad.
Also is this false knock you are reading or is it real knock you should be
afraid of. It is possible that the volume at 5000 rpm is high and the
knock sensor readout of course different to this. It is just too simple to
be accurate.
The right way to tune it a knock sensor would be a tool that reads the
frequency spectrum when no knock occurs. Then the same readout must be
analyzed when knock occurs. The different level of this specific part of
the spectrum (measured over time) can then be isolated and digitalized.
i.e. if a higher level occurs a counter will be active (as easy as that).
The AFC only listens to the whole spectrum and some other side frequencies
may simply overlay the knock sensor signal.
There you can see the frequency on the y-axis. The higher the plots the
higher the level of the recorded frequency. Check out the "flashes" that
start at 7.6 sec around 6 kHz. They start at around 7khz and go down to
5khz within a very short time. This can be identified as knock or "pings"
(a typical ping starts with a higher frequency) that then can be counted.
No one can see that there are many other sounds and at the end of this one
second plot shows some noise around 6k again. This can be due to the
increased rpm or anything else. In fact in this test, the timing got
advanced and then knock occurred what then again retarded the timing. This
seemed to create the noise (throttle was constant).
Coming to an end, we need a device that limits the frequency range from
5k to 7k using a high grade filter with about 24 db steepness (bandpass).
I'm not yet sure about the interdependency to the rpm signal as the noise
could rise over the bandwidth. I may have to record this noise when I get my
electronics ready (well, I need to cloned before to free up some time). If
we are lucky, then there is no need for rpm compensation at all. Then the
amplitude of the signal can be watched and at a certain level around 7k the
sound will be analyzed for its length and frequency shift. This then can be
identified as real knock and given to the counter.
Back to the AFC if tuned properly, it reads the signal like the picture
shows in the upper part of the screen. One may see the little peaks above
the noise level. Summarize the pos and negative parts of the signal will
double the level (AC to DC converting) and the peaks may become more clear.
Now the AFC II does exactly this. The setting allows to set a specific
level where above this the counter will be triggered. Simple and it works
for the region up after the 8 second mark. But afterwards the noise around
2-4 kHz the noise become increased and the peaks tend to sink in between
them what either means that there is no knock detected or the AFC II thinks
that there is knock because it reads a level that is above the set value.
As you stated correctly in your second post, it may interpret this noise
too.
Anyhow, the S-AFC II comes with this feature "for free" and why not using
it. I detected that my RC injectors are quieter in clicking than the Denso
ones with the AFC II as I did not saw any knock on the logger but I did on
the AFC II monitor.
Reference : Sundahl Bill,
Roger G.
93 & 96 3000GT TT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 07:33:39 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Dunkin" <
dunkin@netcarrier.com>
Subject:
Team3S: OverBoost . . . .
Figured out the engine misfires are because of too
much boost. I'm probably running almost 13psi on hard acceleration.
This is when it misfires. Plugs gapped at stock. I'll probably
lessen up the boost since its hesitating when I step on it.
Darius
1991 VR4
------------------------------
I got some noises coming from my rear at least I
think its the rear. Kind of like the sounds you hear from tires that are
worn out with no tread. The tires are fine and the noises only started
recently. The noise goes away when I turn the wheel. I think its coming
from the rear right. The noise starts at around 20MPH. Kind of a
middle pitched rumbling when moving. It has been slowly getting worse especially
noticed on the highway going straight. Any ideas? I'm about to do a
brake job might as well change the noisy part while I'm at it.
Darius
1991 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 14:44:44 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: OverBoost . . . .
Regap plugs to 0.032 and watch out fuel settings. Set boost to 14 psi and
check the bevaiour again. Also on old cars. wires and coils are getting
weak causing misfires.
At 07:33 19.06.2003 -0500, Dunkin wrote:
> Figured out the engine
misfires are because of too much boost. I'm
> probably running
almost 13psi on hard acceleration. This is when it
>
misfires. Plugs gapped at stock. I'll probably lessen up the boost
> since its hesitating when I step on
it.
>
>
Darius 1991 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 07:44:38 -0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: OverBoost . . . .
Or you could just gap your plugs down to .034 and keep the boost...:)
------------------------------
I had a similar noise from the rear that went away when I turned. It
ended-up being the wheel bearing assembly. You might want to look
there.
Greg Wurst
'95 3000GT VR4
'94 Stealth RT/TT (wife's car)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 08:49:29 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Blowing' smoke - Turbo? Rings?
Not poor design (at least in my opinion) but a weak PCV valve that can
easily be overcome by higher than stock boost pressure levels.
Russ F
CT
93 VR-4 DR 650's and supporting mods
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 15:08:44 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Blowing' smoke - Turbo? Rings?
Time for a set of Crank Vents and getting rid of that weak PCV valve
!
At 08:49 19.06.2003 -0400, Furman, Russell wrote:
>Not poor design
(at least in my opinion) but a weak PCV valve that can
>easily be
overcome by higher than stock boost pressure levels.
>
>Russ
F
>CT
>93 VR-4 DR 650's and supporting mods
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 08:08:45 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Dunkin" <
dunkin@netcarrier.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Isn't overboost not good for engine?
I'm running all stock parts. I really don't
want to put too much stress on my engine if not needed. Question is
running the turbos at 13psi is this going to cause engine damage or wear or can
these cars handle this stress without upgrading certain parts to
aftermarket?
Darius
1991 VR4
------------------------------
I have a small amount of "play" in my steering. That is to say at
dead center I can turn the steering wheel about 5 degrees either direction
before the wheels actually turn. This is very slight but on my NA Stealth
I don't have this issue at all. Could this be the steering rack or tie
rods? I absolutely have no leaks what so ever and the car is otherwise
sound.
Thanks,
Tommy
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 08:33:28 -0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Isn't overboost not good for engine?
Yes, your car "should" be able to handle 13 psi since the stock 2nd gen
cars come stock running 12-12.5psi.
------------------------------
I have the same problem on the wife's Stealth RT/TT. I've checked the
tie rod ends and the steering assembly down to the rack. The ends were
fine with no play in the joint and the steering shaft was turning properly into
the rack. I am assuming my problem is in the rack itself. I just
haven't gotten around to repairing/replacing it. You might want to jack
your front end up and do the same checks. Have someone slowly turn the
wheel back and forth and check the various parts.
Greg Wurst
'95 3000GT VR4
'94 Stealth RT/TT (wife's car)
------------------------------
I know that airbags are supposed to be "serviced" every 10 years or so,
according to the manual. So it's getting to be that time for my '93
Stealth. But does anyone know what the servicing entails, or where to get
it done? Anyone done this on a non-deployed airbag (not that I would
attempt it myself)?
Bob
'93 Stealth
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 10:20:43 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: OverBoost . . . .
Yup, I did that (0.034) and I can run 19psi now (with Alky injection too).
Be advised, plug gapping comes at the expense of fuel mileage!
Ken Stanton
91 Pearl White Stealth TT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 09:36:23 -0500
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Steering Play
<<<<SNIP>>>> I am assuming my problem is in the
rack itself. <<<SNIP>>>
>>> "Williams, Tommy F" <
WilliamsTF@bernstein.com> 06/19/03
09:28AM >>>
I have a small amount of "play" in my steering.
That is to say at dead center I can turn the steering wheel about 5 degrees
either direction before the wheels actually turn. This is very slight but
on my NA Stealth I don't have this issue at all. Could this be the
steering rack or tie rods? I absolutely have no leaks what so ever and the
car is otherwise sound.
- -----------------------------------------
Guys,
After having rebuilt my steering rack, I would say that the problem is NOT
likely to be a mechanical one inside the rack. The reason I say this is
that when you turn you steering wheel, you are turning a gear inside the
rack. The teeth on that gear mesh with a steel bar (hence the term:
rack and pinion)that slides back and forth inside and actuates the tie rods that
push the wheels. (for those that this is old hat to, sorry, but it was all
new to me when I did the rebuild). Wear on these teeth could cause play in
your steering. The reason I say that it is unlikely is that unless you
have a zillion miles on your car or you have run the rack completely dry of
fluid, there is probably little wear on the rack and pinion gear teeth. NOTE I
SAID UNLIKELY, not impossible. SO, I strongly recommend carefully checking
every other component of the system before deciding to pull the rack out of the
car. ESPECIALLY if you have 4WS. It is a BEAR to bleed the
system.
Mine was leaking like a sieve from the outer seals and making a disastrous
mess of the bottom of my car. I decided to purchase mitsu's rebuild
kit(basically a bunch of seals for the rack) for roughly $150 instead of paying
for a new rack from Mitsu or taking my chances with a salvaged one. The rebuild
instructions can be found in your service manual and are moderately difficult to
follow, but if I pulled it off, you can too. I found out later that
AutoZone sells a rebuilt unit for around $240 (including the outer boots on the
tie rods that are about $20 each from
Mitsu) that carries a LIFETIME
warranty. I think, all things considered, I would have gone that route
instead of going to the trouble of rebuilding my own and crossing my fingers
hoping that I did it right.
- -Jeff Crabtree
'91 R/T TT (3SI# 0499)
2K Jeep TJ
Sport
St. Louis, MO
------------------------------
<<SNIP>> After having rebuilt my steering rack, I would say
that the problem is NOT likely to be a mechanical one inside the rack.
<<SNIP>>
I think my problem is in the rack because the wife's Stealth was in an
accident before we bought it (judging by some repair work and damage I noticed),
so I think the teeth might be damaged from the wreck. With my luck, the
teeth on both the bar and gear on the rack are damaged. The bar isn't that
expensive (about $140), but the gear assembly is about $600.
Unfortunately, there's no way I can tell without removing it. If anyone
lives in Southern Ohio and want to experiment with removing the rack on a
Stealth RT/TT let me know! :)
Greg Wurst
'95 3000GT VR4
'94 Stealth RT/TT (wife's car)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 08:18:09 -0700
From: "Ioan Raicu" <
iraicu@cs.wayne.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Apex'i S-AFC II
Could I assume that the baseline readings for where knock occurs will be
about the same across all Stealths and 3000GTs? I have a 94 TT and have no
data-logging capabilities, so I have no way to really get a baseline reading of
where knock starts to happen. Maybe this answer won't really be available
until more people install this unit, configure the knock read out, and then
compare the base line numbers and therefore we will see how close they are to
each other. Thanks again to all who answered. Bob, you were right that I
missed some posts recently (almost a year), but I will definitely check the
archives from the past few weeks for more info on the AFC II.
John Raicu
94 Yellow TT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 10:36:12 -0500
From: "Scott J. Cowan" <
sjc0u812@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: OverBoost . . . .
Boy, if it does, it's not by much. My set up is the same except I'm
down to 0.032 on the plugs and finding only a slight decrease in fuel
economy.
Best,
SJ
> Yup, I did that (0.034) and I can run 19psi now (with Alky injection
> too). Be advised, plug gapping comes at the expense of fuel
mileage!
>
> Ken Stanton
> 91 Pearl White Stealth TT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 17:59:05 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Apex'i S-AFC II
Then maybe everyone takes the wrong settings. The best would be to analyze
the knock sensor by recording the same noises like I explained in the other
post to the list. With this using on a spectrum analyzer we can determine
the right frequency and a base level. BUT, not every car is the same ! Some
have loud lifters, others different injectors and all make noises.
Therefore we can only gather the data from different people that have their
settings based on the proper analysis beforehand (please, no try and
error). But remember that the "louder" an engine (or bad motor mounts or
whatever causes false knock) is the less appropriate will the AFC II
be.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 12:00:44 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 02 sensor voltage = a/f ??
Hello all-
I think we've had this discussion before, but can someone knowledgeable on
this topic close the argument? I have always believed that the 02 is a
'digital' sensor in that you only know 'rich' or 'lean'. However, many
people seem to use this to tune their cars saying that 0.90V is better than
0.88V. I don't want to mislead them into buying a real wideband 02 sensor
if they don't have to, bc that's what I believe is necessary to do the
job.
On that note, does anyone know what the best tool for tuning (off a dyno)
is? =20
Thanks!
Ken Stanton
91 Pearl White Stealth TT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 11:05:34 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Blowing' smoke - Turbo? Rings?
You sure there's a valve..and its not just a simple hole?
That'd be the first turbo car I'll have seen with a 1-way valve..
- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff
Mohler
orders@speedtoys.com
Team3S/3Si.org Vendor approved brake discounter; also, parts for Toyota, Audi,
BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo. Where do you buy YOUR brakes? I can
help...asking is free! :) "If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 12:45:19 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 02 sensor voltage = a/f ??
I am of the opinion based on various dyno results that I have seen
comparing 02 voltages (factory sensors with less than 15K miles) to the a/f that
is displayed by a Horiba 02 sensor (wide band), that stock 02 sensors are NOT
the best way to tune. If someone wanted to use those voltages in
conjunction with data logging of Knock and Timing advance, this would be a
viable option but still not as good as using a wideband and data logging.
Just My .02
Russ F
CT
93 VR-4 DR650's and supporting mods
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 12:01:08 -0500
From: "Nick McDermott" <
eire1274@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: Old
questions and new: spark plugs
First question: has anyone tried using an NGK Plus4 (or equivalent)
alternate profile plug in a higher boost (13+psi) car? I'm curious how the
1st gen 3s cars will react to this. Had good experiences with the Plus4
type plug on a supercharged (8psi) V8, but that's a different critter
altogether.
Secondly, can using a capacitive discharge ignition (like MSD) circumvent
some of the typical high-boost spark issues? I intend to install an MSD
ignition, coils, and wires.
Third, no one seemed to either see or have any info about my question
yesterday, so I'll try again: any word as to how the STOCK ECS type suspension
reacts to lowering approx. 1.5" from a performance/handling viewpoint.
Looking at the non-adjustable Tein green springs offered by the 3sx guys.
Nick
93 VR-4 (on a mission to prove my friends wrong)
------------------------------
If you can't tell front from rear you must be very popular in certain
circles!
How many miles on your car? The rear wheel bearings tend to go south
around 100K miles on our VR4's. These symptoms sound suspicious.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 12:07:28 -0500
From: Jon Paine <
ppainej@attglobal.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 02 sensor voltage = a/f ??
Everything I have ever read on the subject from companies who make O2
sensors indicates that the sensor is basically designed to be a 2-state
device - high output is rich, low output is lean. No particular effort
is made to make the devices follow a particular voltage curve outside
the stoichiometric part of the curve, which in an ideal sensor graphs as
a nearly vertical line from about .3V to about .7V with little or no
change in mixture. ECUs don't care about how accurate the device is
outside that range, so they aren't designed for that. If they were,
they'd be a lot more expensive (i.e. the Honda WB type O2 used in their
lean burn engines), and a lot more sensitive to contamination than they
are.
The actual shape of the high and low curves will vary between sensors
(of the same type) and will drift with age and contaminants.
I've been working on a design for a dual calibratable bar graph display
for use with the stock O2 sensors, to work with the high and low end
curves of the sensor voltages but it will actually have to be calibrated
using a WB O2 sensor after installation to be of any real value. I
believe that the stock sensors, properly matched and calibrated in a
circuit designed specifically to 'expand' the high and low curves while
ignoring the central stoich range, would work as well as a full time WB
sensor. It would however need to be monitored and recalibrated
periodically.
Jon Paine
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 13:08:22 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Old questions and new: spark plugs
ON any forced induction application I would not change the plug design
(i.e. using Bosch 4 electrode plugs) it will only cause the spark to arc out
against the piston not against itself like it supposed to.
Just go with a plug that is one heat range colder or even copper plugs in
the factory heat range if only going to a BPU modification level.
In answer to your other question anything over 1.2 drop on stock struts is
going to cause premature wear due to the fact you are shortening is stroke
length but not increase the default dampening force....
IMHO your best bet for the Teins is to get a set of GAB adjustable
available through both Stillen and Alamo Motor Sports.
Russ F
CT
DR 650's and supporting mods
------------------------------
the consensus of experience and opinion is that 15 psi with all stock parts
poses <no> danger. The biggest danger of overboosting is detonation
from running lean, and the stock fuel pump and injectors can safely keep up with
the demand at WOT and 15 psi (actually more). See Jeff Lucius' website
stealth316.com.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 13:46:54 -0700
From: Steve Hennigar <
garpike@chartermi.net>
Subject:
Team3S: ECU Replacement
A couple of questions that I'm sure many of you have accurate answers for.
1. What should I expect to pay for a new ECU? 2. Must it be
purchased from a dealer, or are there other sources? 3. If there are other
sources, is there one (or ones) recommended by
list people?
It looks like the 92 R/T is in need, but I'll find out for sure
tomorrow. (a "couple of more tests" need to be run)
Thanks in advance,
Steve Hennigar
92 R/T, 92 R/T TT
------------------------------
I bought mine from M&S recycling and had the dealer install it so there
would be no <issues>. It worked well in my 93 VR4 from day
one. That was about two years ago, if my memory serves me. It was
<much> less expensive than one from the dealer. They will give you a
quote over the phone.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 17:54:31 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Blowing' smoke - Turbo? Rings?
If Geoff is asking about our PCV valve (yes, it's really a variable-flow
valve), the beginning of my web page below graphically illustrates the design
and operation of the "one way" PCV valve in all the 6G72 DOHC engines, including
turbo.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 11:58:59 -0600
From: Gabe Simoes <
Gabe92RTTT@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ECU Replacement
I had my ECU repaired at autoecu.com . $275 w/ a lifetime warranty
and free next day shipping. They were able to fix my ECU when AVPRO
couldn't. Definitely give them a shot, they also have a package with a
1 yr warranty for $189 I believe.
Gabe Simoes
1992 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo
- - K&N, EGR BlockOffs, Port & Polished Heads, Ported Manifolds,
Wiseco
Forged Pistons, GTPro 347s, MBC, DN Y-Pipe, TurboXS RFL, Stillen DP,
3SX Crank Pulley, RPS MAX street disk, Tunerstein Data, SAFC, Walbro
255lph, ARM-1, Weight Redux
- - '99 Lifters & 450cc's on the
shelf
------------------------------
I sent a post on this to 3Si a while back, but thought it might shed some
light on the subject ;-). It's kinda long, so rather than post it here, here's a
link.
Jeff W.
------------------------------
Good Luck,
Marven Lamarre
'92 Dodge Stealth
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 18:38:17 -0700
From: "Edward Vinces" <
ed@compros.com>
Subject: Team3S: VR4 on
EBay
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 20:46:59 -0500
From: "Mark X. Herro" <
mxlaw@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Bouncing/ Erratic Idle
For a few weeks now my 3000GT has developed a strange symptom. After
running the car for several minutes, the idle will rev up and down several times
and then top out well above normal. Normal was 300 or 400 rpm. Now it will rev
up and down and level off at between 1200 and 1500 rpm.
It is a strange symptom because it never follows a set pattern. For example
, I drove for 15 minutes yesterday and it never occurred. Then after letting it
sit for 15 minutes ,I drove for about 3 minutes and it started the revving up
and down and idled at 1400rpm. It always takes at least 3 or 4 minutes of
driving before it starts acting up.
The car was at a local mechanic. He said the check engine light is not on
and so he did not run a computer analysis, however, he did say he checked the
idle motor connections and all seemed to be fine. I am not sure if he checked
the motor itself. Other than the strange idle, it runs fine.
Thanks for any advise you may have. Long time reader, first time
inquirer.
MX Herro
1993 3000GTVR4 less than 50000 miles
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Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 22:01:58 -0400
From: George Yin <
gyin@vt.edu>
Subject: Team3S: exhaust
tip
Someone thought it was funny to take one of my stock exhaust tips last
weekend. Does anyone know how much they run for at a the dealer and what
part number that is?
George
94 SL
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 22:19:06 -0400
From: "Gil Gomes" <
gil@3kgt.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: exhaust
tip
I happen to have 4 of them out in my shed. Attached to the OEM
catback...
- -G
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 23:38:18 -0400
From: Ved <
1994TT@comcast.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Problem in pulling the short block out, HELP!!!!
My 94 tt jumped time and I thought that I had to rebuild the heads only but
I found 2 cracked pistons, when I removed the heads. I removed everything
from the engine but I could not get the short block separated from the
transmission. The transfer case is in the way. I was able to remove
the bolts on the top and on the sides of the transmission, going into the block,
but it seems like I missed some bolts on the bottom of the trans. Will I
have to remove the transfer case or will I have to pull the transmission out
with the short block. Anyone done this??? Please let me know what's the
procedure on this and where can I find instructions, pics etc on this PS. I have
the CD manual but it was not detailed enough.
Thanks.........
Ved 94 Yellow TT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 23:43:37 -0400
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Problem in pulling the short block out, HELP!!!!
I've never done this myself, but I remember somebody saying the easiest way
was to drop the transfer case and leave the trans bolted on.
Alex.
'95 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 23:11:45 -0500
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Problem in pulling the short block out, HELP!!!!
Yes, this is an excellent way to install/remove your motor and
tranny. You will need an engine hoist and a load leveler to do it
right. If you're anywhere near St. Louis, I've got both that you may
borrow.
- -Jeff Crabtree
'91 R/T TT (3SI# 0499)
2K Jeep TJ
Sport
St. Louis, MO
- -----Original Message-----
From: Alex Pedenko
<<<SNIP>>>
I remember somebody saying the easiest
way was to drop the
transfer case and leave the trans bolted on.
Alex.
'95 VR4
------------------------------
I searched through the shop manual (electrical).
It tells me where all
the fuse boxes are in the car.
It doesn't tell me which one controls the
cigar lighter, into which I have plugged my radar detector and DSBC. Anybody
know which fuse box and which fuse controls the cigar lighter?
Rich
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#184
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