Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, June 19
2003 Volume 02 : Number 183
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 02:24:58 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Front Wheel bearing replacement
Heh, a big press... (need I say more)
Really though... Have fun... remove the entire steering knuckle
assembly, then have the old bearing pressed out, the new in, and
reinstall...
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2003 23:13:56 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Front Wheel bearing replacement
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Pierre Routhier" <
pierre.routhier@look.ca>
>
Hello everyone, anyone could give some hints as to how to remove the
>
front wheels bearings. Thanks Pierre/Pearl White 92 RTTT
-
------------------------------------->
Hey, Pierre,
To do *any* repairs on our cars, it is best to own the repair
manuals. The
manuals are in two books- one for chassis and one for
electrical. Look in the
Team3S FAQ Index Page (Basics Section) for the
URL link to where to buy the
manuals. They are $57 (US) plus shipping
from Chrysler, and they usually
arrive within a few days (maybe it's longer
to Canada). In the meantime, you
can look at the (very rare) 1991 STIM
(Stealth Technical Information Manual),
also on our website, which covers all
1st-generation models from 1991-1993.
Member Jeff Lucius provided the scans
for the STIM from the original Chrysler
document, and you'll find links to
his website that may help you as well. The
STIM may give you some
insights as to what is involved.
Good luck!
- ---Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 04:59:22 -0400
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front
Wheel bearing replacement
Quite easy actually...
But also a little more costly then normal
Cant get just the wheel bearings from the dealer.. they come as part of
a
hub and bearing package, around $70 a piece after 25% discount from a
good
dealer (Conicelli is where I got mine). I don't know of any source
that
sells just the bearings and races, though there may be some. The new
ones
come with wheelstuds already in place, which is nice. To replace the
whole
hub, just remove the caliper and rotor (hopefully not seized to the
hub.)
You will also have to undo the 32mm axle nut. If you don't have access
to
air tools, or come across a stubborn nut, loosen the axle nut with a
long
breaker bar and socket BEFORE jacking up the car or removing the
wheels.
Then undo the 4 bolts on the back of the knuckle that hold the hub in
place,
alternately smack the studs with a hammer or mallet and the hub should
start
inching it's way out. Keep the nuts at the top of the studs if you feel
like
saving the threads from mushrooming. All the new hubs come with bolts
to
thread into the them instead of the hubs being studded.
Omar
92 r/t
------------------------------
I'm assuming the Stealth TT is the same as the 3000GT VR4.
The front wheel bearings and hubs are an integral assembly. You have to
jack the car up, remove the wheels, remove the brake calipers, remove the brake
rotors, and then you have to loosen 4 nuts (or bolts depending on whether the
hubs are the newer version) on the inboard side (backside) of the hub. Oh
yeah, you have to remove a cotter pin (non-reusable) from the nut that keeps the
hub on the axle and loosen the nut. That requires either an electric/air
impact wrench, or you have to remove the hub cap from the wheel and put the
wheel back on, lower the car, and loosen the nut, then raise the car and remove
the wheel again.
The nuts on the backside of the hub is the hardest part - I recommend lots
of penetrating oil and an overnight before trying to remove them. Clearance past
the metal bell shaped hosing on the axle is minimal.
The hub pulls right off the axle. Clean the rust off the splines on the
axle shaft and lubricate the heck out of them with high temp lithium grease
(white chassis grease) before reinstalling.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 09:07:04 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Blowing' smoke - Turbo? Rings?
From the description it sounds like you are developing excessive
crankcase
pressure and when the crank case goes back into vacuum (between
shifts) the
oil and vapors are being sucked out.... Are you running
crank vents????
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 10:36:19 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Blowing' smoke - Turbo? Rings?
Nope, no crank vents... Should I be?
- --Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 13:01:54 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Blowing' smoke - Turbo? Rings?
If they are suggesting a crank vent catch can setup..Id put money into
a
boost controller that doesn't require an Allen-wrench and an empty
street
to set and rely on first.
Vent fumes isn't that BIG of a deal
- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff
Mohler
orders@speedtoys.comTeam3S/3Si.org
Vendor approved brake discounter; also,
parts for Toyota, Audi, BMW,
Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo.
Where do you buy YOUR brakes? I can
help...asking is free! :)
"If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 14:57:20 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt D" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: upgrading fuel system
You'll get pretty marginal gains from this. Maybe 5-10 HP max.
What the NA needs most is more air, then more fuel if needed.
If you
just want power on the street or strip, get nitrous. $600
If you want longer
term power, you'll have to add a supercharger
or a turbo. $3000-$5000.
Plus you'll want exhaust with any of above, another
$500-$700.
Supercharger kits will have fuel upgrades included, a turbo would
definitely require fuel upgrade as well.
I cheated and made a leaf blower ram air. Works well, and cheap, but
only gets about 20 hp max.
Kurt
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 15:03:39 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt D" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: upgrading fuel system
Well, I suppose you could get your heads worked on, get a cam,
and
headers, then you would be able to use the extra fuel. But that is
mucho
dollars. I met a port and polish guy last week at the track. He's
done
lots of eclipses but no 3.0L 3S heads.
He's eager to try if you want, he's in Camarillo, CA.
Kurt
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 12:37:36 -0700
From: Michael Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Team3S:
"Race" rubber
I'm wondering what tires you folks use when you change tires at the track
for HPDE or open track type events. I'm interested in getting a good
balance between wear, cost, and grip. I realize that I probably have to
pick 2 of the 3 criteria, although wear and cost can be related (cheap
tires that wear out quickly may be more expensive than a more expensive
tire that lasts longer).
Thanks.
- --------------------------------------------------------------
Michael
A. Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 12:36:26 -0700
From: "Guy, Michael (CS)" <
michael.guy@ngc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Fuel Gauge
This week as I have noticed on just about any other week, my fuel gauge
when
my tank is full, only reads 3/4's and then maybe a little later it
reads
full. However this week, when it was at 1/4's of a tank, it only took
down
maybe 6 gallons of gas.
Could this be something to do with the fuel pump, or is the gauge
itself
busted?
------------------------------
sounds like the sending unit needs to be replaced..i believe its located
in
the tank
------------------------------
Yokohama AO32R, for six seasons, but I might try some Toyo Proxes R1 (I
think?) next time I have to buy four tires.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 16:00:30 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt D" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
3S-Racers: Re: Team3S: Blowing' smoke - Turbo? Rings?
I would check the PCV valve at least.
Maybe even try to verify you
don't have an oil passage blocked, maybe
retaining
some oil that is
leaking past valve guides?
Do the compression checks for rings and
valves.
If that's good, then it's most likely the turbo.
Kurt
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 12:45:02 -0700
From: "Dean Benz" <
dean@benzfamily.us>
Subject: Team3S:
DMS CoilOvers
I have seen plenty of discussion of JIC, and TEIN, but has anybody tried
the
DMS coilovers.
I ran across them looking for something for my WRX.
Apparently, they were originally designed for our cars, and they
have
separate compression and rebound adjustments!!!
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 16:16:02 -0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 60k svc done-yea, but now A/C not working
Ahhhhhhhhhhhh
Anyone have a gun I can use to shoot myself in the head ?
After all the excellent advice, I decided to check the see if the INFAMOUS,
Compressor Lock Controller to see if it was
disconnected. Son of a
-----, it was disconnected.
I have no idea when I disconnected it. I haven't done anything under
the dash for a long time, so it must have been disconnected
for over a year
and I never knew it.
I did recheck the system pressure, now that everything is running, and it
reads about 25psi with the system on the lowest
temperature. My trusty
A/C recharge kit shows that it may need refrigerant.
Should I recharge ? What should normal pressure be and what is the
procedure for checking ?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 16:19:46 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt D" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: "Race" rubber
My rating, others may
differ
grip cost wear (days)
Hoosier
A 250
6
Kumho B
140 12
Toyo
C 170
16+
Yokos ?BC
?? 16+
My opinion of Hoosier and Yokos is based on hearsay, no
direct
experience.
Just last weekend, a Viper owner told me he thought Hoosier's might get
me 1-2 seconds. That just may be worth it, depending on actual wear on
a
VR4.
Kurt
------------------------------
At 12:37 PM 6/18/2003 -0700, Michael Gerhard wrote:
>I'm wondering
what tires you folks use when you change tires at the track
>for HPDE or
open track type events. I'm interested in getting a good
>balance between
wear, cost, and grip. I realize that I probably have to
>pick 2 of the 3
criteria, although wear and cost can be related (cheap
>tires that wear
out quickly may be more expensive than a more expensive
>tire that lasts
longer).
Yokohama 032R tires last the longest. They wear like iron and are a
pretty
good rain tire because the tread pattern lasts longer. A set will
probably
last a full season (4 DEs plus a few autocrosses). Fairly expensive
at $180
per tire.
Kuhmos don't wear as well, but they stick better. They are probably
good
for 1-2 seconds per lap over the Yokos. You MUST order them shaved
(specify
a light shave, just to knock the shoulder down a little bit) or they
will
chunk the first time out. Been there, done that. They make a shitty
rain
tire, because the tread pattern is gone after the first DE, but that's
why
you take your street tires with you. Also the cheapest, at $130 per tire.
I have run both Yokos and Kuhmos. I am on Kuhmos again because I am on
a
quest, and I need all the help I can get (and afford). If I was just
out
for kicks, I'd run Yokos.
I dunno about Toyos. Left Coasters swear by 'em, but nobody in the
Midwest
reports any experience with them. I am waiting for Chuck Willis to
buy a
set and give us a report.
Hoosiers are the absolute fastest, but you have be a Zillionaire to
run
them. They cost $250 each, can be punctured by looking at them
cross-eyed,
and wear out fast. All the fast cars run Hoosiers. One of my ROWG
buddies
runs Hoosiers on his Z06, and he punctured a brand new one in the
parking
lot of the Goodyear store after they were installed -- running it
from the
store into his transporter 50 ft away. Fortunately, he had a spare.
Your best bet: Yokos. They will take all the abuse you can dish out in
your
first DE season, they will last the longest, and they stick pretty good.
A final observation: I dunno your experience level, but if this is
your
first DE season, you might want to run on street tires. I ran my
whole
first season on a set of Michelin Pilots, and did just fine. Then,
at
season's end, shop around for a new set of street tires, a set of
wheels,
and a set of race tires.
Rich/slow old poop>
------------------------------
I may have to replace the pulleys for the A/C belt as one squeals like
crazy all the time. It has done so since I put the belts
back on.
I painted the pulleys to get rid of some of the rust, maybe I got some paint in
the bearings or whatever.
If it does not stop squealing I may have to replace it. If I am going
to replace one pulley I may as well replace both.
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks all
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 15:22:57 -0500
From: "Nick McDermott" <
eire1274@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Suspension replacement
Does anyone have a suggestion as to a
cheaper-than-dealership
alternative to stock replacements for the ECS shocks
and struts for the
1st gen VR-4. Every parts store hereabouts only
stocks the
non-controllable KYBs, and the big Mitsu dealership here quoted me
$800
for the OEM replacements, which struck me as really high.
Second question, if anyone knows: how does the stock (ECS) system
react
with the Tein sport springs offered on
www.3sxperformance.com? The
drop
appears minimal (1.3" rear to 1.5" front) but I wanted to make
sure
there wouldn't be an issue with bottoming out the struts. I want
to
preserve the ECS feature but am looking at this in terms of
driving
performance rather than ride quality (although opinions here
are
welcomed, too). If the car is lowered, strut and sway bars will
be
installed as well to minimize roll.
This is going to be a shop demo car, but I still want to enjoy it. ;)
Nick
93 VR-4 (no, that vacuum sound is just my wallet)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 13:24:33 -0700
From: "Ioan Raicu" <
iraicu@cs.wayne.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: kill switch ... between MFI relay and fuel pump
A few weeks ago I installed a kill switch (between the MFI Relay and
the
fuel pump) so I could have an extra layer of protection in case
anyone
tries to steal my baby (94 Yellow TT). I seem to have a very
strange
problem. First of all, when I flip the switch to the off
position, my
Apex'i AVC-R looses all power, and of-course the engine will not
start,
since it is not supposed to. Then, when I flip the switch on, I
cannot
start the car right away. I found that if I wait ~30 seconds, it
will
consistently start. The weird part is that the 30 seconds that I
wait
so I can start the car (with the switch in the on position), the
Apex'i
AVC-R's power does not come on. Of course, after the 30 seconds
pass,
the AVC-R's power comes on, and I can start the car normal. As a
small
experiment, I took the switch out of the loop, and everything
works
normal. Also, if I do not flip the switch, between when I turn
off the
engine, and back on, the car starts fine.
I am beginning to think that it is a ground problem, because
otherwise,
I do not see the connection between the AVC-R and the
switch. Could it
be that maybe the switch isn't capable of running the
necessary voltage,
or maybe some capacitors need to be charged in case the
power gets cut
off (like when the switch is turned off)? Anybody else
run into a
similar issue, or does anyone have any ideas on how I could
resolve this
issue? Thanks in advance.
John Raicu
94 Yellow TT
------------------------------
Car fell off the front center jack yesterday at Midamerica Motorplex.
The
jack wheels dug into the asphalt, and over she went. We had one
wheel
partially on, and it broke off one of the wheel studs. Problem is,
the
wheel stud is for a 1/2 in. spacer, and nobody in town carries
anything
that long, or even knows where to get them. One vendor suggested
that the
spacer mfg has the long studs made up special, so they may not be
available
elsewhere.
I can't find the box the spacers came in (I usually save all that
stuff,
too, for such an occasion), so I am not entirely sure of the source.
Some
place in Germany, with a two letter name, like K&N or M&M or
S&M...anybody
have any ideas? Who sells a 1/2 in. spacer for our cars?
Anybody on the
list here a dealer?
In any event, I need a wheel stud that is one-half inch longer than a
stock
Mitsubishi stud (94 VR4), with the following specs:
12mm-1.5 thread
45 mm length + one-half inch
14.38 knurl
diameter.
All ideas welcome.
By the bye, picking up a VR4 that has fallen off its jack and is sitting
on
the lower control arm is no fun. It took two super-low racer jacks to
get
it up high enough to get the front jack out from under. I shudder to
think
of the interesting places we were jacking on.
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 16:57:32 -0400
From: Bill Ma <
BillMa@FLAGCOMM.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Need a l..o..n..g wheel stud
H & R makes wheel spacers and they are from Germany too. I know Options
Auto
Salon sells them
http://www.optauto.com, don't know if they
have the long
ones.
I could probably also get them for you, but if you are in a hurry
these
would be your best option.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 15:41:14 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Starter Fun WAS: Battery Wire Routing (OEM Positive)
First of all, thank you to all who responded (on the list and privately) to
my post about the issues I'm having with my starter...
At this point, I'm guessing I may have overheated something in/on/near the
starter motor.
To recap, I replaced the OEM positive terminal for my battery and was
required to cut off the large black wire connected to it. I then soldered
on a new wire to connect the new battery terminal. I used a soldering iron
and heat gun to heat up the end of the OEM wire so I could melt the
solder. It got quite hot, but not hot enough to melt the insulation on the
wire or anything else visible from the top of the engine bay.
Now, my starter intermittently doesn't work, and it's not isolated to when
the engine is warm/cold or how long it's been since I drove it (as I originally
suspected). Probably 50-70% of the time, it starts right up with no
issues. The rest of the time, I turn the key to "Start" and I hear a
metallic "tink" from the engine bay, the lights on the dash dim slightly, and
some of the idiot lights - like the 4WS light - come on. The dash dimming
and idiot lights are pretty much what I see when the car starts normally.
At that point, the car should start, but it doesn't. The engine is not
turning and the starter is not spinning (I can't hear any whizzing from the
engine bay).
When the car doesn't start, I can get it to start eventually by turning the
key from "On" to "Start" and back over and over. It generally takes
between 5 and 10 tries, but sometimes up to 20 or so. Also, sometimes, if
I just hold the key in the "Start" position for 5 seconds or so, the car will
initially not start, but after those 5 seconds, the starter spins and all is
well.
Based on the above and what others have suggested, I suspect that by
heating the end of the large wire that goes to the starter (and apparently the
solenoid for the starter), I either damaged one of the terminals or something
internal to the starter itself.
I'm not edumakated on all the internal parts of a starter (**** anyone have
a good online reference? ****), but AFAIK, it's a big DC motor, and I know
generally how those work. Could I have trashed some of the windings
so that if the motor stops in a specific position, it won't spin? Or the
same thing on the commutator? I *think* the solenoid is still doing its
job in pulling the pinion gear into the teeth on the ring gear because I hear a
distinct "tink" when I turn the key to "Start". I guess it could be the
high-current switch in the solenoid that actually gets the pinion gear
spinning.
What, if any, of that stuff above could be damaged by heat? I guess I
could find one of those inductive ammeters to check the starter current, and I
can also crawl under the car and check the connections on the starter (at rest
and when trying to operate)... so is it crawling time?
Thanks,
- --Erik
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 16:12:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: glenn vrfour <
vr4glenn@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Starter Fun WAS: Battery Wire Routing (OEM Positive)
This link:
Gives some information on the internals of the 3000gt
starter.
Glenn
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 19:55:50 -0400
From: "Steve Sullivan" <
sully@carolina.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need a l..o..n..g wheel stud
Jegs has a pretty good selection of lugs.. I use Excaliber lugs on my GN
and
they are very long.
Sully
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 20:56:27 -0400
From: "Dennis R. Ninneman" <
dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Redundancy
The concept of 'tuned' exhaust is not new. Timed exhaust pulses
can
aid flow. Bigger is not always better. Has nothing to do
with single
versus (true) dual exhaust. Duals tend to be easier
to 'tune'.
Again, not a new concept.
Dennis -==- Philly
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 17:56:45 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
kill switch ... between MFI relay and fuel pump
There is about a 30 second delay between the time you turn the ignition
switch
off and the car actually cuts power to the electronics. It would
appear you've
run afoul of this condition. You'll notice that you can still
roll up the windows
after the key turned off --- My Apex'i stays on for the
30 seconds then clicks off.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 21:04:01 -0400
From: "Dennis R. Ninneman" <
dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: TANGENT: Team3S: Blowin' smoke - Turbo? Rings?
Point well taken!
Dennis -==- Philly
Ken Stanton wrote:
>Yeah, datalogging seems like a poor-mans tuning tool. You get
some stuff,
>you grunt and poke at it, read it while on the john, and
think about it in
>your sleep. But what does it amount to? I
think we should put up a site
>with everyone's logs, and FULL info on the
cars (mods, track times, running
>condition, fuel economy, etc etc) so
maybe we can digest a bunch and
>compare/contrast and maybe be able to
make some conclusions! I, for one,
>have a car that should run
12.5's but is still 13.5's and this thing is
>mint.. I mean _mint_.
I just dunno......
>
>Ken Stanton
>Fast-azz 91 Pearl White
Stealth TT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 18:05:20 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
"Race" rubber
Yokohama AO32's are great for longevity and pretty good grip --- I use them
on
the street. They are noisy though !!! The Yokos are a good street/track
combo
but I don't think I'd do it for a daily driver that sees 15,000 miles
per year.
I run used Hoosier's or Goodyear GSCS's --- price is about $80 per and as
mentioned they stick like mad but don't last long --- a few weekends,
depending
on the track type. In addition to the tires I have mounting and
balancing costs
to go with the $$ for the tires. The Hoosier/Enkie combo I
have on my car is
about 20# lighter than the stock wheel tire combo per
corner.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 18:07:30 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Redundancy
Tuned or timed exhaust pulses don't exist for a turbocharged car ---
the
turbos chop the pulses into mush --- at least after the turbo.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 21:17:15 -0400
From: "Dennis R. Ninneman" <
dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Blowing' smoke - Turbo? Rings?
Hmmmmm .............. excessive crankcase pressure. Does this
condition
exist out of the factory (poor design)? If yes, why do you
think this
is the case? If no, what happens with use to cause this to
happen?
Dennis -==- Philly
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 21:22:32 -0400
From: "Dennis R. Ninneman" <
dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: "Race" rubber
Please remember ............... in situations like this .............
your mileage may vary. Everyone's 'situation' is different!
Dennis -==- Philly
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 21:40:34 -0400
From: "Dennis R. Ninneman" <
dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Redundancy
Old concept ..........Pressure begins at the outlet of the turbo what do
you do about that. The mush theory is from the 70's.
Dennis -==- Philly
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 22:07:49 -0400
From: "Ken Lovell" <
wklovell@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Starter Fun WAS: Battery Wire Routing (OEM Positive)
This may be way out there, but it could it be the switch on your
clutch
intermittently going bad?
Ken
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 22:21:12 -0400
From: "Lorne Silkes" <
vr4@cwia.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Starter
Fun WAS: Battery Wire Routing (OEM Positive)
I have the same exact problem... My problem seems to have surfaced
after a
turbo install so the battery was probably disconnected...
Wonder if it's a
bad connection near the battery...
Lorne
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 19:36:50 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Redundancy
I haven't done any recent research but I see that CART and others don't
have
the fancy equal length exhaust tubes of the old school. I understand
that
pressure starts at the outlet of the turbo but the concept of standing
pressure
waves in the turbo exhaust doesn't seem realistic. I'd be happy to
do some
reading on the subject if you can point me at a couple of
articles.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 21:43:20 -0700
From: "Ioan Raicu" <
iraicu@cs.wayne.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: kill switch ... between MFI relay and fuel pump
You are correct that it does have something to do with the fact that
it
takes the car abut 30 seconds to cut the power after the ignition
is
turned off. I did the small experiment in which I turned off
the
ignition, about 2 seconds later, the Apex'i AVC-R turned off (as
usual),
30 seconds later, I finally flipped the switch (rather than flipping
it
immediately when I shut off the engine). I then waited a few
minutes
(with the switch flipped to the off position). And then flipped
the
switch to on, and immediately tried to start up the car, and what do
you
know, it started right up.
So my guess is that it remembers that I did not wait those 30
seconds
when I shut off the engine, and it wants to wait the 30
seconds
regardless that it happens at the engine shutoff or at the time I
start
the engine.
Now the question is: is this normal, or did I set up something
wrong
with the kill switch? Any other thoughts on how this could be
fixed?
John Raicu
94 Yellow TT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 22:26:43 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
kill switch ... between MFI relay and fuel pump
My guess is that the ECU starts an internal count down timer and it
ain't
gonna let anything happen until it's done with it's count down. If you
interrupt it, it just resumes the count down when power comes back on.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 23:34:11 -0700
From: "Ioan Raicu" <
iraicu@cs.wayne.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Apex'i S-AFC II
Has anybody installed the new Apex'i S-AFC II? The unit seems to
be
mostly the same as the old one, except that it now has a knock
readout
built in. I was wondering if anyone installed one yet and has
some
feedback on how well the knock readout works, especially in
comparison
with the TMO data-logger? It is my guess that the knock
readout is
taken from the ECU wires just like the RPM, speed, etc... which
means
that it should work with both 1G and 2G 3S and the 94~95
hybrids.
Anybody has any thoughts on this?
John Raicu
94 Yellow TT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 08:42:51 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Apex'i S-AFC II
Yes, the stock knock sensor wire is read by the unit. But it's not worth
much if any as the it doesn't show real knock. It is simply a voltmeter
that counts voltage peaks, nothing else. A true knock sensor should have a
special filer included that finally shows the engine specific knock
parameters.
Compare the unit to the knock monitor from HKS that allows to adjust the
A/F ratio when knock occurs. It is much more expensive but incorporates a
true analoge/digial filtering. Bets thing to monitor knock beside of a
Datalogger.. but $$$
Roger G.
93 & 96 3000GT TT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 05:03:09 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Apex'i S-AFC II
Have you actually used one Roger? I installed the new S-AFC II on
my
brothers Talon a couple weeks ago. Installation, and usage was
almost
identical to the original S-AFC that I have on my car.
The knock sensor readout is much more than a voltmeter. It is
actually
a frequency counter (oscilloscope). It works off the same
basis as (As
far as I can tell) most other knock monitors out there.
There is no
digital signal. It is adjustable to the point where knock
is really
occurring. The real way to adjust the "noise floor" is with
a
datalogger, but once done, it is VERY reliable at listening to the
knock
sensor. Basically, as far as I can tell, the ECU watches the
frequency
feedback from the KS, and at certain "hz" values it will read
back
certain knock sums. S-AFC2 has the same, but you set the actual
limits
(every car is different) and it will display a "relative" knock
sum
which does vary from the ECU's actual output, but is enough to
say
"there is a small amount of knock" or "there is no knock" or "holy
crap,
that's way too much knock." Definitely not a gimmick at
all. But, it
cannot change A/F like the HKS can (I suppose, never even
heard of that
one).
I have actually considered going to one "just because" it has
knock
readout, but there is something else I might consider. I like
having a
"knock" readout at all times. I run the Talon on the "edge" of
knock
all the time, and sometimes the change in weather is enough to make
it
knock a little. I plan on purchasing one of these
http://pocketlogger.com/?page=prod&prod=kb
for that same reason... Real
time knock sum is nice to know...
Should work on 1g 3/S cars too....
Side note to the original question - will work on any car with
a
standard design knock sensor, yes, even OBD-2 cars have KS's too,
you
just can't log the values from any known source... (My brothers
Talon
was a '97 model and was definitely OBD-2)
- -Cody
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#183
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