Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, June 13
2003 Volume 02 : Number 178
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 17:02:45 -0600
From: Chip Greenberg <
chipg@pvtnetworks.net>
Subject:
Team3S: KYB struts
Hi Folks, it's time to replace the rear struts in my 92 Stealth TR
tt.
Has anybody had experience with the KYB struts from Dynamic
Racing?
thanks for the insight
Chip
------------------------------
At 05:02 PM 6/11/2003 -0600, Chip Greenberg wrote:
>Hi Folks, it's
time to replace the rear struts in my 92 Stealth TR tt.
>Has anybody had
experience with the KYB struts from Dynamic Racing?
For street or race?
For street, stick with stock. KYBs suck, or so people say. That way, you
can keep your ECS. Don't buy from a local dealer. Try Mitsupartsdirect or any of
the other suppliers that serve this group.
For race, the only option is stock or GABs, available from Stillen. Unless
you want to change your entire suspension, that is.
Just curious...why only the rears? Did you already replace the fronts? If
so, with what?
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 17:16:12 -0600
From: Chip Greenberg <
chipg@pvtnetworks.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: KYB struts
Sorry , for street. I've heard mixed reviews on the KYB but wanted to
know specifically "why" they suck?
I never really use the ECS , but did just spend $100 to replace the
front cap on one of the front struts!!
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 19:28:37 -0400
From: "Gil Gomes" <
gil@3kgt.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Blow off
valve issue...
I'm going to go back that 1/2 turn towards hard. I
think I'm all set there. I had to relocate my GReddy to between the
battery and the K&N. It's kind of jammed in there a little bit but not badly
enough to be concerned with. With the 6 speed tranny, the GReddy comes
perilously close to the shift linkage counterweight.
Someone out there left excellent instructions re: which
hose to buy to better facilitate the move. Worked out perfectly.
Upshot is... I can hear it just fine. Since yours is buried under your
intake I can understand that it'd be hard to hear. That's a shame too,
since it has a great sound. It almost sounds like a wind instrument
sometimes... it actually creates notes... weird...
If anyone needs the instructions for relocating a BOV...
I'll go dig them up. Thanx for the advice, guys...
- -Gil
------------------------------
At 05:16 PM 6/11/2003 -0600, Chip Greenberg wrote:
>Sorry , for
street. I've heard mixed reviews on the KYB but wanted to
>know
specifically "why" they suck?
Dunno. Just something I heard.
Rich
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 20:52:25 -0400
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: Team3S: for
those looking for a Spyder
Lookie what I found
'95 VR4 Spyder w/ 18k, black/tan, stock, asking 28k...
if I only had the cash...
Alex
'95 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 22:08:05 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@spamcop.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ECS Question
I love it, Joe, keep up the bantering. You know we *do* have a nice
group of 3/S owners here in the Burg.
Merritt is dead-on with the descriptions of some of those potholes though.
It is the poor weather conditions with poor paving that usually does in the
roads (the faltering near freezing temps all winter makes roads heave and piling
on salt just rusts out the cars rather than plowing the roads and driving on
cinders like in WV where I grew up). This is not nearly as bad as NYC
roads where friends of mine bend a wheel each year it seems like.
I'm here to stay, though, so if you are ever on your way through there are
several of us in and around town who will welcome a fellow member.
Back onto the topic I am told that the '95 VR-4 that does not have ECS has
the suspension more or less set to what the ECS folks term "Sport" - is this
true?
- --Flash!
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 23:06:34 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
coolant mix
If you read the propaganda on the side of the water wetter bottle, the
product claims to do pretty much everything that glycol-based coolant does. I
don't know how much I trust water wetter as a sealant and anti-rust agent
though. Last time I swapped out coolant, I used 25% coolant, distilled water,
and water wetter. I still found a fair amount of a reddish-brown color to
the liquid when I drained it out which is probably rust. And this was with
~25% coolant still in the mix. After seeing all that rust I decided to put
50/50 glycol back in there.
RE: Rust...
One factor that may play a role in all that rust formation could be the
fact that I don't use the engine drain plug since I still can't find it.
I've even taken the car to a shop lift and couldn't find the thing. So I
just drain the radiator and fill the whole system with >HOSE< water until
it's clear. Then I drain the system as much as possible via radiator drain
plug and fill it back up. So the result is that up to 40% of the hose
water stays in there =( This might be why I get rust. I'm sure
that 197,000 miles [never rebuilt] on the engine isn't helping.
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 02:19:14 -0400
From: ERIC PIERCE PIERCE <
griz600cc@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: KYB struts
I did the complete setup on my Stealth. Eibach springs, kyb struts and
shocks, addco sway bars, cusco strut tower. Kyb struts didn't handle
the
lowering of the car well. I switched over to Tein coil overs with
the ecs.
There was a drastic improvement in ride comfort imo.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 07:11:03 -0600
From: Chip Greenberg <
chipg@pvtnetworks.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: KYB struts
OK, I'm going to thank everybody who responded about the KYB struts.
I
think I'll stick with stock for now.
Thx again
Chip
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 09:26:47 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Re: Dyno plans...
If you cant find a mustang brake dyno, a dyno dynamics dyno will work just
as well. These are both "load bearing" dynos and IMHO are far superior for
tuning when compared to a Dyno Jet which DOES NOT load the driveline up in the
manner that either of the other dyno's do.
Ideally tuning on the street is the best but you do have to be very careful
of the gendarmes' I have found they frown upon speeds in excess of 120MPH on
public highways ;)
Oh yeah food for thought, STi (Subaru's in house tuning division) requires
for all overseas dealers of STi components to have a Dyno Dynamics AWD model in
house in order to sell their goods.....
Russ F
CT
93 VR-4 DR 650's and supporting mods
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik
[mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003 6:58 PM
To:
team3s@team3s.com; Team3S
Racers
Subject: Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Re: Dyno plans...
Geoff Mohler wrote:
> Unfortunately, the only loading dyno I know of,
is only 2wd.
Matrix in Portland has an AWD Mustang Dyno, which AFAIK, can do loading all
that. So my subie friends tell me anyway. I'm headed down there when
I get my act together :-)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 10:03:26 -0400
From: "Williams, Tommy F" <
WilliamsTF@bernstein.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Has anyone solved the check engine light problem
For cars 1996 and younger with OBDII computers, any change in the fuel map
usually results in the illumination of the check engine light. Has anyone found
a cure for this annoyance aside from ignoring or worst, disconnecting?
Please advise,
Tommy
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 10:34:53 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Has anyone solved the check engine light problem
Can you expand on the problem? I am not familiar with this problem,
and am also wondering how you're altering the fuel mapping. Thanks!
Ken Stanton
91 Pearl White Stealth TT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 14:41:46 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Has anyone solved the check engine light problem
> For cars 1996 and younger with OBDII computers,
> any change in
the fuel map usually results in
> the illumination of the check engine
light. Has
> anyone found a cure for this annoyance aside
> from
ignoring or worst, disconnecting?
Your fuel maps aren't adjusted properly. I assume you are using
something like
a S-AFC or an ARC2 or somesuch. If you aren't tuned
close enough to keep the
ECU happy within its fuel trim values, you'll get a
check engine light.
Figure out what codes are being set when the check engine light is on and
that
should lead you to what portions of your map are too far off.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Extended warranty company is coming through with a "rebuilt" transaxle from
a company called "G & R" in Oregon. This appears to be a big time
salvage operation in Oregon. Anyone have experience with their
trannies? The warranty company chose them rather than having mine rebuilt
locally - also only 1-2 synchros were available from Kormex. There is also
a company called "MD Auto" or something that sells rebuilt trannies for our
cars, but haven't seen it on anyone's good guy links.
Also, while the tranny is out of the car, I am considering replacing the
clutch. It only has 2 years and 10K miles on it. I am comparing a
stock replacement to a 6 puck disk re-using the pressure plate I already have in
the car. Any thoughts or recommendations?
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 11:06:36 -0400
From: "Williams, Tommy F" <
WilliamsTF@bernstein.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Has anyone solved the check engine light problem
I'm working with ESP on their Unichip development for stage 0 3SI
cars. The tuning seems to work fine for non-OBDII cars and I'm very happy
with the performance results and MPG. I just recently dyno'd a 308 WHP
with no aftermarket mods other than a K&N air filter. The chip
controls the boost (about 14.5 psi) and there is a boost control solenoid added
to replace the factory on. I'm working with them on the development just
thought you guy might have some insight.....
Tommy
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 15:12:16 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: "rebuilt" transaxle and new clutch plate
> Also, while the tranny is out of the car, I
> am considering
replacing the clutch. It only
> has 2 years and 10K miles on
it. I am
> comparing a stock replacement to a 6 puck disk
>
re-using the pressure plate I already have in
> the car. Any
thoughts or recommendations?
I'd stay away from the 6-puck if you street drive the car a lot.
Especially if
there's stop and go traffic where you live. I've got the
RPS Stage III with 6- puck sprung hub disc and it chatters a lot when leaving
stoplights. The
alternative is to rev it up and launch it all the
time. Which I guess
depending on your personality might be either a
negative or a plus. I've heard
from others that the 6-pucks last like
10,000 - 12,000 miles. I've only got
about 2,000 on mine, so I haven't
gotten to that point yet.
Holds power like crazy though...
I probably wouldn't use a stock pressure plate though - get the whole
clutch so
it is calibrated as a unit.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 16:05:22 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: "rebuilt" transaxle and new clutch plate
Chuck,
It sounds more like you would be getting a "used" transmission. Does this
salvage yard actually recondition or rebuild transaxles for our cars? I list all
the places I (we?) know of that actually work on or sell parts for our
transaxles on my Garage Page. If someone does know for a fact that G&R
reconditions or rebuilds Getrag transaxles (it could be getting more common now
that CRS sells all internal parts), please let me know so I can add them to the
list.
Here is how Frank Martin (Kormex) describes (paraphrased quote below) the
difference between reconditioning and rebuilding.
"In most states a rebuilt transmission must have at a minimum all new
bearings, synchros, and seals. Reconditioned transmissions have some new parts
and some rebuilt or reconditioned parts."
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 09:25:04 -0700
From: "James Mutton" <
james@playstream.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: ECS Question
***********
Back onto the topic I am told that the '95 VR-4 that does
not have ECS has the suspension more or less set to what the ECS folks term
"Sport" - is this true?
- --Flash!
***********
Nope :) it is missing the Active Exhaust but still has ECS.
- -James
95 Green VR4
"with ECS"
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 11:44:52 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Re: Dyno plans...
Just so we all know, I fully agree. But the only one near Bob here is
2wd.
- ---
Now offering replacement
Toyota/Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Porsche/SAAB/Volvo parts Where do you buy YOUR brakes
from?
orders@speedtoys.com Maybe
I can help..asking is free. :) "If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 12:48:33 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@spamcop.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ECS Question
James,
Uh, no, my car does NOT have ECS but I have been told that the ride
is equivalent to the ECS person with theirs on Sport. Trust me, my does
not have ECS. It has the power sunroof which means that it has no
ECS.
- --Flash!
'95 Black VR-4
w/ power sunroof, w/ Active Aero, w/o ECS,
w/o Active Exhaust
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 12:50:47 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Re: Dyno plans...
Geoff agrees with me FULLY no less, I can now die a happy man
;o) You west
coasters used to have 3:1 dyno ratio compared to the
East for the AWD variants at least what happened???
Russ F
CT
DR 650's and supporting mods
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 09:56:27 -0700
From: "James Mutton" <
james@playstream.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: ECS Question
Good call, I forgot all about the 95 1/2 ver.
- -James
95 Green VR4
w/ Crank Sunroof, w/ ECS, w/o Active
Exhaust
And as of today w/ broken y-pipe mod. :(
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 10:52:14 -0700
From: Michael Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Team3S:
CAPS part number
I am away from my home computer and am looking for a CAPS part number for
my 91 3000 GT VR4.
I would like the number for the right rear suspension trailing arm.
Thanks.
- --------------------------------------------------------------
Michael
A. Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 14:19:08 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@spamcop.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ECS Question
Good question, Chuck, I will check. I don't know how hard the ECS on
Sport setting is quite frankly - maybe at the NG I can take some test rides with
folks. Maybe it is between the Tour and Sport mode. Beats me.
It is what I've been used to for the last 70k miles so I've just gotten used to
it.
"If you unplug the ECS harness from the ECS shock, the default setting is
Hard. I find it difficult to believe that the non-ECS shock would be
running for street use in Hard mode. Is the non-ECS strut the same part
number in CAPS as the ECS strut?"
Since the ECS strut and non-ECS strut are listed separately on 3SX's page
then I imagine it is a different part. Let me fire up CAPS though.
The front strut for my car from CAPS is MB892368 (VIN
JA3AN74K9SY020664). I prefer to list a real VIN in CAPS to search for
parts instead of trying to pick Ultimate Line, 6 M/T, and stuff like that so
send me your ECS-equipped VIN, Jim, and I'll see what strut yours
requires.
Yes, James, the 95-1/2 VR-4 is usually what I try and list as the signature
so people don't get confused - I just forgot that last time. Someone
somewhere said they actually *saw* a car with power sunroof AND ECS but that has
still never been proven yet. My car was mfg in 11/1994 but is definitely
the 95-1/2 version but that is why I love the Gatherings - to show someone how
the rear of the power sunroof can be popped up as they didn't know theirs could
do that -- things like that.
- --Flash!
'95-1/2 VR-4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 14:25:18 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: CAPS part number
MB631613. But you're not going to like the price.
Partznet: $337.31
------------------------------
Michael,
Try M&S Recycling - I just changed mine on my '93VR4.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 13:39:30 -0500
From: "Lim, Yong H SPC"
<
yong.lim@sill.army.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: OEM brake rotor part number??
Can somebody tell me what's the part number for OEM brake rotor, both front
and rear. Also, which brake pads should I get, I'm looking at stillen pads
right now but I'd like to know what else is out there. Also, is
aftermarket rotors better than OEM's, I'm just wondering.. Thanks...
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 13:42:35 -0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
brian.geisel@hp.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: KYB struts
Eric,
Did you get the Tein EDFC? I've been wondering how
those work - both for my 3k and also my WRX. How do you like them?
Which Tein suspension are you running?
Thanx,
geis
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 14:45:50 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: OEM brake rotor part number??
Need some more info, like year, make and model!
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 14:47:11 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: OEM brake rotor part number??
Young the general consensus is that stillen pads are a little better than
stock, for true stopping power in stock sizes you want Porterfield R4S's and
Porterfield cryo treated rotors.....
Our very own Geoff mohler is a dealer and offers very good pricing.
Russ F
CT
DR 650's and supporting mods
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 14:11:48 -0500
From: "Lim, Yong H SPC"
<
yong.lim@sill.army.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: OEM brake rotor part number??
Heh, sorry, forgot to put that...
It's 1993 3000GT VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 13:01:42 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: ECS Question
Darren Schilberg wrote:
> Since the ECS strut and non-ECS strut are
listed separately on 3SX's
> page then I imagine it is a different
part.
They are completely separate part numbers and, according to CAPS, all VR-4s
with the Electronic Sunroof have non-ECS struts. The damping rates of the
fixed struts are closer to the Tour settings than the Sport ECS settings.
The front expansion for ECS(Hard:Med:Soft) is 2530:1580:620 and the non-ECS is
1080. The front contraction for ECS is 1190:1120:970 and the non-ECS is
540. Interesting note: the '95.5+ FWD models use the same front struts as
the '95.5+ AWD cars. The rear suspension ECS vs. non-ECS is similar except
that the non-ECS expansion is between the Med and Hard ECS settings.
> Someone somewhere said they actually *saw* a car with power sunroof
> AND ECS but that has still never been proven yet.
That may have been me. I have a friend with ECS and a factory power
sunroof on a 1995 3000GT. The trick is that the car is an SL, not a VR-4,
which CAPS says can have those two items simultaneously.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 16:48:38 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@spamcop.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ECS Question
Erik - When you rode and drove my car last year you commented how it felt
stiff for a non-ECS car though (I know I have had ECS-owners in the car who say
it felt like their Sport mode). Like I said, I'm more than happy to swap
cars at the NG to get some feedback.
Okay, so a VR-4 will not have power sunroof and ECS but an SL can - that
must have been what I was remembering.
- --Flash!
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 14:44:02 -0700 (PDT)
From:
benfica@newsguy.comSubject: Team3S:
new 3000 GT buyer
I have a k&N air filter,but I just bought my 1994 Mitsubishi 3000 GT,
no turbo, and I don't know to much about modifications for this car. I bought
VERNON 400, but I don't feel any gain in HP, so my question is there is another
way to increase the HP on my car, like chip or anything else? My other question
is if anybody already tried the resistor intake modification, that advances the
Timing on the car, this product is for sale at eBay.com, under the Mitsubishi
3000, that is supposed to give an extra 20 HP? And my last question is, to get
some more HP should I get just new mufflers for my car, or should I change from
the CAT back, and the best site to get these products. Thanks Tony
------------------------------
What's a Vernon400?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 17:19:38 -0500
From: "Nick McDermott" <
eire1274@cox.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
new 3000 GT buyer
The resistor method you saw on eBay is a classic marketing genius taking
advantage of those who don't know better. He's selling a resistor that you
can go out and buy at Radio Shack for 50 cents.
By younger brother (without consulting me or any other older sibling)
bought this item and installed it on his 92 Eclipse. After trying to help
him diagnose severe rich operation, stumbling under acceleration, and the "check
engine" light, I found this "modification" under the hood and asked him what the
hell it was.
Essentially, it tricks the MAF sensor into "seeing" more air coming in
through the intake, and essentially the ECU compensates by dumping more
fuel. Rich operation shouldn't really hurt the car, and while we never
dyno'd the car to check top end HP, I can definitely say that it hurt torque and
overall performance.
An (expensive) ECU modification can pick up your NA car, but before that
I'd look at bottom end, exhaust and catalytic converters. May not affect
net HP tremendously, but low end torque (off the line) will be impacted by a
freer exhaust.
Nick
93 VR-4 (Mitsubishi junkie now, I'm reading service guides for
fun)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 15:20:51 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
new 3000 GT buyer
All right damn it --- you made me look. The Venom 400 is a microprocessor
that screws with fuel maps and claims big gains. IIRC their claims are not
supported by the boards --- they are a NA item and I'm sure info can be found on
the 3SI.org site.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 18:38:01 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: new 3000 GT buyer
I think we should be a bit careful, this new owner is probably kind of
feeling 'gullible' at the moment in this realm of experts. Tony, there is
sooooooooooo much to learn, many of us have spent years (4 myself) learning
about these cars, and what works and what doesn't. Go to 3si.org, Forum,
and Non-turbo modifications section. Read until your eyes invert, and see
where that leaves you. Oh, also be sure to read people's signatures and
see what they've done, hope that helps too!
Ken Stanton
91 Pearl White Stealth TT
Founder - 3SI Rochester
(NY)
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 11:33:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andrew Wert <
mrstealth13@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Do I need to buy a used crank pulley or a new one?
I am rebuilding a 1992 DOHC engine and I am just
putting some finishing
touches on it before I drop it
in. The larger crank pulley that the
accessory belt
goes on is chipped and I am going to replace it. Do
I
need to buy a new one or will a used one be ok to use.
What would
be best for me to do?
Thank you
Andrew
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#178
***************************************