Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth     Friday, June 13 2003     Volume 02 : Number 178
 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 17:02:45 -0600
From: Chip Greenberg <chipg@pvtnetworks.net>
Subject: Team3S: KYB struts
 
Hi Folks, it's time to replace the rear struts in my 92 Stealth TR tt. 
Has anybody had experience with the KYB struts from Dynamic Racing?
 
thanks for the insight
Chip
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 18:11:09 -0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: KYB struts
 
At 05:02 PM 6/11/2003 -0600, Chip Greenberg wrote:
>Hi Folks, it's time to replace the rear struts in my 92 Stealth TR tt.
>Has anybody had experience with the KYB struts from Dynamic Racing?
 
For street or race?
 
For street, stick with stock. KYBs suck, or so people say. That way, you can keep your ECS. Don't buy from a local dealer. Try Mitsupartsdirect or any of the other suppliers that serve this group.
 
For race, the only option is stock or GABs, available from Stillen. Unless you want to change your entire suspension, that is.
 
Just curious...why only the rears? Did you already replace the fronts? If so, with what?
 
Rich/slow old poop
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 17:16:12 -0600
From: Chip Greenberg <chipg@pvtnetworks.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: KYB struts
 
Sorry , for street.  I've heard mixed reviews on the KYB but wanted to
know specifically "why" they suck?
 
I never really use the ECS , but did just spend $100 to replace the
front cap on one of the front struts!!
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 19:28:37 -0400
From: "Gil Gomes" <gil@3kgt.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Blow off valve issue...
 
    I'm going to go back that 1/2 turn towards hard.  I think I'm all set there.  I had to relocate my GReddy to between the battery and the K&N. It's kind of jammed in there a little bit but not badly enough to be concerned with.  With the 6 speed tranny, the GReddy comes perilously close to the shift linkage counterweight.
 
    Someone out there left excellent instructions re: which hose to buy to better facilitate the move.  Worked out perfectly.  Upshot is... I can hear it just fine.  Since yours is buried under your intake I can understand that it'd be hard to hear.  That's a shame too, since it has a great sound.  It almost sounds like a wind instrument sometimes... it actually creates notes... weird...
 
    If anyone needs the instructions for relocating a BOV... I'll go dig them up. Thanx for the advice, guys...
- -Gil
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 19:32:14 -0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: KYB struts
 
At 05:16 PM 6/11/2003 -0600, Chip Greenberg wrote:
>Sorry , for street.  I've heard mixed reviews on the KYB but wanted to
>know specifically "why" they suck?
 
Dunno. Just something I heard.
Rich
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 20:52:25 -0400
From: "Alex Pedenko" <alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: Team3S: for those looking for a Spyder
 
Lookie what I found
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2419174621
&category=6350
 
'95 VR4 Spyder w/ 18k, black/tan, stock, asking 28k...
 
if I only had the cash...
 
Alex
'95 VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 22:08:05 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@spamcop.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ECS Question
 
I love it, Joe, keep up the bantering.  You know we *do* have a nice group of 3/S owners here in the Burg.
 
Merritt is dead-on with the descriptions of some of those potholes though. It is the poor weather conditions with poor paving that usually does in the roads (the faltering near freezing temps all winter makes roads heave and piling on salt just rusts out the cars rather than plowing the roads and driving on cinders like in WV where I grew up).  This is not nearly as bad as NYC roads where friends of mine bend a wheel each year it seems like.
 
I'm here to stay, though, so if you are ever on your way through there are several of us in and around town who will welcome a fellow member.
 
Back onto the topic I am told that the '95 VR-4 that does not have ECS has the suspension more or less set to what the ECS folks term "Sport" - is this true?
 
- --Flash!
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 23:06:34 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: coolant mix
 
If you read the propaganda on the side of the water wetter bottle, the product claims to do pretty much everything that glycol-based coolant does. I don't know how much I trust water wetter as a sealant and anti-rust agent though. Last time I swapped out coolant, I used 25% coolant, distilled water, and water wetter.  I still found a fair amount of a reddish-brown color to the liquid when I drained it out which is probably rust.  And this was with ~25% coolant still in the mix.  After seeing all that rust I decided to put 50/50 glycol back in there.
 
RE: Rust...
 
One factor that may play a role in all that rust formation could be the fact that I don't use the engine drain plug since I still can't find it.  I've even taken the car to a shop lift and couldn't find the thing.  So I just drain the radiator and fill the whole system with >HOSE< water until it's clear.  Then I drain the system as much as possible via radiator drain plug and fill it back up.  So the result is that up to 40% of the hose water stays in there  =(  This might be why I get rust.  I'm sure that 197,000 miles [never rebuilt] on the engine isn't helping.
 
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 02:19:14 -0400
From: ERIC PIERCE PIERCE <griz600cc@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: KYB struts
 
I did the complete setup on my Stealth. Eibach springs, kyb struts and
shocks, addco sway bars, cusco strut tower. Kyb struts didn't handle
the lowering of the car well. I switched over to Tein coil overs with
the ecs. There was a drastic improvement in ride comfort imo.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 07:11:03 -0600
From: Chip Greenberg <chipg@pvtnetworks.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: KYB struts
 
OK, I'm going to thank everybody who responded about the KYB struts.  I
think I'll stick with stock for now.
Thx again
Chip
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 09:26:47 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Re: Dyno plans...
 
If you cant find a mustang brake dyno, a dyno dynamics dyno will work just as well.  These are both "load bearing" dynos and IMHO are far superior for tuning when compared to a Dyno Jet which DOES NOT load the driveline up in the manner that either of the other dyno's do.
 
Ideally tuning on the street is the best but you do have to be very careful of the gendarmes' I have found they frown upon speeds in excess of 120MPH on public highways ;)
 
Oh yeah food for thought, STi (Subaru's in house tuning division) requires for all overseas dealers of STi components to have a Dyno Dynamics AWD model in house in order to sell their goods.....
 
Russ F
CT
93 VR-4 DR 650's and supporting mods
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik [mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003 6:58 PM
To: team3s@team3s.com; Team3S Racers
Subject: Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Re: Dyno plans...
 
Geoff Mohler wrote:
> Unfortunately, the only loading dyno I know of, is only 2wd.
 
Matrix in Portland has an AWD Mustang Dyno, which AFAIK, can do loading all that.  So my subie friends tell me anyway.  I'm headed down there when I get my act together :-)
 
http://www.matrixmotorsports.com/dyno_1.php
 
- --Erik
'95 VR-4  www.team3s.com/~egross
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 10:03:26 -0400
From: "Williams, Tommy F" <WilliamsTF@bernstein.com>
Subject: Team3S: Has anyone solved the check engine light problem
 
For cars 1996 and younger with OBDII computers, any change in the fuel map usually results in the illumination of the check engine light. Has anyone found a cure for this annoyance aside from ignoring or worst, disconnecting?
 
Please advise,
 
Tommy
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 10:34:53 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Has anyone solved the check engine light problem
 
Can you expand on the problem?  I am not familiar with this problem, and am also wondering how you're altering the fuel mapping.  Thanks!
 
Ken Stanton
91 Pearl White Stealth TT
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 14:41:46 +0000
From: mjannusch@attbi.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Has anyone solved the check engine light problem
 
> For cars 1996 and younger with OBDII computers,
> any change in the fuel map usually results in
> the illumination of the check engine light. Has
> anyone found a cure for this annoyance aside
> from ignoring or worst, disconnecting?
 
Your fuel maps aren't adjusted properly.  I assume you are using something like
a S-AFC or an ARC2 or somesuch.  If you aren't tuned close enough to keep the
ECU happy within its fuel trim values, you'll get a check engine light.
 
Figure out what codes are being set when the check engine light is on and that
should lead you to what portions of your map are too far off.
 
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 09:54:08 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: Team3S: "rebuilt" transaxle and new clutch plate
 
Extended warranty company is coming through with a "rebuilt" transaxle from a company called "G & R" in Oregon.  This appears to be a big time salvage operation in Oregon.  Anyone have experience with their trannies?  The warranty company chose them rather than having mine rebuilt locally - also only 1-2 synchros were available from Kormex.  There is also a company called "MD Auto" or something that sells rebuilt trannies for our cars, but haven't seen it on anyone's good guy links.
 
Also, while the tranny is out of the car, I am considering replacing the clutch.  It only has 2 years and 10K miles on it.  I am comparing a stock replacement to a 6 puck disk re-using the pressure plate I already have in the car.  Any thoughts or recommendations?
 
Chuck Willis
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 11:06:36 -0400
From: "Williams, Tommy F" <WilliamsTF@bernstein.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Has anyone solved the check engine light problem
 
I'm working with ESP on their Unichip development for stage 0 3SI cars.  The tuning seems to work fine for non-OBDII cars and I'm very happy with the performance results and MPG.  I just recently dyno'd a 308 WHP with no aftermarket mods other than a K&N air filter.  The chip controls the boost (about 14.5 psi) and there is a boost control solenoid added to replace the factory on.  I'm working with them on the development just thought you guy might have some insight.....
 
Tommy
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 15:12:16 +0000
From: mjannusch@attbi.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: "rebuilt" transaxle and new clutch plate
 
> Also, while the tranny is out of the car, I
> am considering replacing the clutch.  It only
> has 2 years and 10K miles on it.  I am
> comparing a stock replacement to a 6 puck disk
> re-using the pressure plate I already have in
> the car.  Any thoughts or recommendations?
 
I'd stay away from the 6-puck if you street drive the car a lot.  Especially if
there's stop and go traffic where you live.  I've got the RPS Stage III with 6- puck sprung hub disc and it chatters a lot when leaving stoplights.  The
alternative is to rev it up and launch it all the time.  Which I guess
depending on your personality might be either a negative or a plus.  I've heard
from others that the 6-pucks last like 10,000 - 12,000 miles.  I've only got
about 2,000 on mine, so I haven't gotten to that point yet.
 
Holds power like crazy though...
 
I probably wouldn't use a stock pressure plate though - get the whole clutch so
it is calibrated as a unit.
 
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 16:05:22 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: "rebuilt" transaxle and new clutch plate
 
Chuck,
 
It sounds more like you would be getting a "used" transmission. Does this salvage yard actually recondition or rebuild transaxles for our cars? I list all the places I (we?) know of that actually work on or sell parts for our transaxles on my Garage Page. If someone does know for a fact that G&R reconditions or rebuilds Getrag transaxles (it could be getting more common now that CRS sells all internal parts), please let me know so I can add them to the list.
 
http://www.stealth316.com/1-repair.htm#S12
 
Here is how Frank Martin (Kormex) describes (paraphrased quote below) the difference between reconditioning and rebuilding.
 
"In most states a rebuilt transmission must have at a minimum all new bearings, synchros, and seals. Reconditioned transmissions have some new parts and some rebuilt or reconditioned parts."
 
Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 09:25:04 -0700
From: "James Mutton" <james@playstream.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ECS Question
 
***********
Back onto the topic I am told that the '95 VR-4 that does not have ECS has the suspension more or less set to what the ECS folks term "Sport" - is this true?
 
- --Flash!
***********
 
Nope :) it is missing the Active Exhaust but still has ECS.
 
- -James
95 Green VR4
"with ECS"
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 11:44:52 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Re: Dyno plans...
 
Just so we all know, I fully agree.  But the only one near Bob here is 2wd.
 
- ---
Now offering replacement Toyota/Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Porsche/SAAB/Volvo parts Where do you buy YOUR brakes from? orders@speedtoys.com  Maybe I can help..asking is free.  :) "If its in stock, we have it!"
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 12:48:33 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@spamcop.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ECS Question
 
James,
 
  Uh, no, my car does NOT have ECS but I have been told that the ride is equivalent to the ECS person with theirs on Sport.  Trust me, my does not have ECS.  It has the power sunroof which means that it has no ECS.
 
- --Flash!
'95 Black VR-4
w/ power sunroof, w/ Active Aero, w/o ECS, w/o Active Exhaust
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 12:50:47 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Re: Dyno plans...
 
Geoff agrees with me FULLY no less, I can now die a happy man ;o)   You west
coasters used to have 3:1 dyno ratio compared to the East for the AWD variants at least what happened???
 
Russ F
CT
DR 650's and supporting mods
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 09:56:27 -0700
From: "James Mutton" <james@playstream.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ECS Question
 
Good call, I forgot all about the 95 1/2 ver.
 
- -James
95 Green VR4
w/ Crank Sunroof, w/ ECS, w/o Active Exhaust
And as of today w/ broken y-pipe mod. :(
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 10:52:14 -0700
From: Michael Gerhard <gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Team3S: CAPS part number
 
I am away from my home computer and am looking for a CAPS part number for
my 91 3000 GT VR4.
 
I would like the number for the right rear suspension trailing arm.
 
Thanks.
 
- --------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A. Gerhard     1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4  Pearl White
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 14:19:08 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@spamcop.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ECS Question
 
Good question, Chuck, I will check.  I don't know how hard the ECS on Sport setting is quite frankly - maybe at the NG I can take some test rides with folks.  Maybe it is between the Tour and Sport mode.  Beats me.  It is what I've been used to for the last 70k miles so I've just gotten used to it.
 
"If you unplug the ECS harness from the ECS shock, the default setting is Hard.  I find it difficult to believe that the non-ECS shock would be running for street use in Hard mode.  Is the non-ECS strut the same part number in CAPS as the ECS strut?"
 
Since the ECS strut and non-ECS strut are listed separately on 3SX's page then I imagine it is a different part.  Let me fire up CAPS though.
 
The front strut for my car from CAPS is MB892368 (VIN JA3AN74K9SY020664).  I prefer to list a real VIN in CAPS to search for parts instead of trying to pick Ultimate Line, 6 M/T, and stuff like that so send me your ECS-equipped VIN, Jim, and I'll see what strut yours requires.
 
Yes, James, the 95-1/2 VR-4 is usually what I try and list as the signature so people don't get confused - I just forgot that last time.  Someone somewhere said they actually *saw* a car with power sunroof AND ECS but that has still never been proven yet.  My car was mfg in 11/1994 but is definitely the 95-1/2 version but that is why I love the Gatherings - to show someone how the rear of the power sunroof can be popped up as they didn't know theirs could do that -- things like that.
 
- --Flash!
'95-1/2 VR-4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 14:25:18 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: CAPS part number
 
MB631613.  But you're not going to like the price.  Partznet:  $337.31
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 13:31:55 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: CAPS part number
 
Michael,
 
Try M&S Recycling - I just changed mine on my '93VR4.
 
Chuck Willis
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 13:39:30 -0500
From: "Lim, Yong H  SPC" <yong.lim@sill.army.mil>
Subject: Team3S: OEM brake rotor part number??
 
Can somebody tell me what's the part number for OEM brake rotor, both front and rear.  Also, which brake pads should I get, I'm looking at stillen pads right now but I'd like to know what else is out there.  Also, is aftermarket rotors better than OEM's, I'm just wondering.. Thanks...
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 13:42:35 -0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <brian.geisel@hp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: KYB struts
 
Eric,
 Did you get the Tein EDFC?  I've been wondering how those work - both for my 3k and also my WRX.  How do you like them?  Which Tein suspension are you running?
 
Thanx,
geis
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 14:45:50 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: OEM brake rotor part number??
 
Need some more info, like year, make and model!
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 14:47:11 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: OEM brake rotor part number??
 
Young the general consensus is that stillen pads are a little better than stock, for true stopping power in stock sizes you want Porterfield R4S's and Porterfield cryo treated rotors.....
 
Our very own Geoff mohler is a dealer and offers very good pricing.
 
Russ F
CT
DR 650's and supporting mods
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 14:11:48 -0500
From: "Lim, Yong H  SPC" <yong.lim@sill.army.mil>
Subject: RE: Team3S: OEM brake rotor part number??
 
Heh, sorry, forgot to put that...
It's 1993 3000GT VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 13:01:42 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ECS Question
 
Darren Schilberg wrote:
> Since the ECS strut and non-ECS strut are listed separately on 3SX's
> page then I imagine it is a different part.
 
They are completely separate part numbers and, according to CAPS, all VR-4s with the Electronic Sunroof have non-ECS struts.  The damping rates of the fixed struts are closer to the Tour settings than the Sport ECS settings.  The front expansion for ECS(Hard:Med:Soft) is 2530:1580:620 and the non-ECS is 1080.  The front contraction for ECS is 1190:1120:970 and the non-ECS is 540.  Interesting note: the '95.5+ FWD models use the same front struts as the '95.5+ AWD cars.  The rear suspension ECS vs. non-ECS is similar except that the non-ECS expansion is between the Med and Hard ECS settings. 
 
> Someone somewhere said they actually *saw* a car with power sunroof
> AND ECS but that has still never been proven yet.
 
That may have been me.  I have a friend with ECS and a factory power sunroof on a 1995 3000GT.  The trick is that the car is an SL, not a VR-4, which CAPS says can have those two items simultaneously.
 
- --Erik
'95 VR-4  www.team3s.com/~egross
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 16:48:38 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@spamcop.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ECS Question
 
Erik - When you rode and drove my car last year you commented how it felt stiff for a non-ECS car though (I know I have had ECS-owners in the car who say it felt like their Sport mode).  Like I said, I'm more than happy to swap cars at the NG to get some feedback.
 
Okay, so a VR-4 will not have power sunroof and ECS but an SL can - that must have been what I was remembering.
 
- --Flash!
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 14:44:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: benfica@newsguy.com
Subject: Team3S: new 3000 GT buyer
 
I have a k&N air filter,but I just bought my 1994 Mitsubishi 3000 GT, no turbo, and I don't know to much about modifications for this car. I bought VERNON 400, but I don't feel any gain in HP, so my question is there is another way to increase the HP on my car, like chip or anything else? My other question is if anybody already tried the resistor intake modification, that advances the Timing on the car, this product is for sale at eBay.com, under the Mitsubishi 3000, that is supposed to give an extra 20 HP? And my last question is, to get some more HP should I get just new mufflers for my car, or should I change from the CAT back, and the best site to get these products. Thanks Tony
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 16:44:20 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: new 3000 GT buyer
 
What's a Vernon400?
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 17:19:38 -0500
From: "Nick McDermott" <eire1274@cox.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: new 3000 GT buyer
 
The resistor method you saw on eBay is a classic marketing genius taking advantage of those who don't know better.  He's selling a resistor that you can go out and buy at Radio Shack for 50 cents.
 
By younger brother (without consulting me or any other older sibling) bought this item and installed it on his 92 Eclipse.  After trying to help him diagnose severe rich operation, stumbling under acceleration, and the "check engine" light, I found this "modification" under the hood and asked him what the hell it was.
 
Essentially, it tricks the MAF sensor into "seeing" more air coming in through the intake, and essentially the ECU compensates by dumping more fuel.  Rich operation shouldn't really hurt the car, and while we never dyno'd the car to check top end HP, I can definitely say that it hurt torque and overall performance.
 
An (expensive) ECU modification can pick up your NA car, but before that I'd look at bottom end, exhaust and catalytic converters.  May not affect net HP tremendously, but low end torque (off the line) will be impacted by a freer exhaust.
 
Nick
93 VR-4 (Mitsubishi junkie now, I'm reading service guides for fun)
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 15:20:51 -0700
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: new 3000 GT buyer
 
All right damn it --- you made me look. The Venom 400 is a microprocessor that screws with fuel maps and claims big gains. IIRC their claims are not supported by the boards --- they are a NA item and I'm sure info can be found on the 3SI.org site.
 
        Jim Berry
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2003 18:38:01 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: new 3000 GT buyer
 
I think we should be a bit careful, this new owner is probably kind of feeling 'gullible' at the moment in this realm of experts.  Tony, there is sooooooooooo much to learn, many of us have spent years (4 myself) learning about these cars, and what works and what doesn't.  Go to 3si.org, Forum, and Non-turbo modifications section.  Read until your eyes invert, and see where that leaves you.  Oh, also be sure to read people's signatures and see what they've done, hope that helps too!
 
Ken Stanton
91 Pearl White Stealth TT
Founder - 3SI Rochester (NY)
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 11:33:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andrew Wert <mrstealth13@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Do I need to buy a used crank pulley or a new one?
 
I am rebuilding a 1992 DOHC engine and I am just
putting some finishing touches on it before I drop it
in.  The larger crank pulley that the accessory belt
goes on is chipped and I am going to replace it.  Do I
need to buy a new one or will a used one be ok to use.
 What would be best for me to do?
 
Thank you
 
Andrew
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #178
***************************************