Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, June 10
2003 Volume 02 : Number 176
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 09 Jun 2003 10:37:09 -0700
From: Michael Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Team3S:
All wheel steering question
I'm thinking that someone had posted a message about testing the all-wheel
steering by having the car adequately supported on stands and then ran the
car up to 50mph and turned the wheel to observe the rear steering.
I also think I saw some postings warning about running the car in gear when
the car was supported on stands.
The obvious issue is if the car comes off the stands, it will rocket away.
Assuming that the car is securely supported and the possibility of coming
off the supports is almost zero (we do have earthquakes in CA so it is
remotely possible that one could happen at the precise moment the car is
running on the stands), what is the collective wisdom of the Team3S list as
the whether this would cause any damage to the drive train. All 4 wheels
would be free to rotate.
I'm getting my car repaired after having suffered some suspension damage to
the right rear and I'm wanting to make sure the all-wheel steering is
working correctly.
Thanks for any input you can provide.
- --------------------------------------------------------------
Michael
A. Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 13:56:57 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: All wheel steering question
Can you actually test the 4 wheel steering this way? I was under the
impression that you needed certain input from the G Sensor to activate the 4
wheel steering, and that having the car up on stands and not actually moving
will not provide this necessary input. Jeff?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 14:03:44 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: All wheel steering question
No you certainly can. I've done it before, its hard to see but surely
will work! You need to get the speedo above 45 and crank the wheel HARD
(difficult with no back pressure, you'll see...)
Ken Stanton
91 Pearl White Stealth TT
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 13:21:49 -0500
From: "Philip Kennedy" <
pkennedy@sfigroupinc.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Doing a bit of the 120K service myself on my 94' 3000GT
N/A..
Well I have now completed my fuel filter, sparkplugs w/wires, and gaskets.
I did the fuel filter 3-4 weeks ago and just got around to getting my sparkplug
cables last Friday. Some points of interest, I also did a compression check on
the front 3 cylinders, I found what I had suspected the 5th cylinder was low. I
squirted a few drops of oil in there and the compression came back to normal. So
I'm going to get some pricing on a valve job here soon. Another point of
interest, when I took off the intake plenum, I noticed that there was a bit of
the old nasty oil sludge in there. That would probably be because of the valve
problem and possibly an EGR problem? I have also heard that there are filters
you can put on the PCV to help alleviate the Oil kick back, any word on these?
Any recommendations on how to take care of this problem would be great.
Thanks again
Philip K.
94' 3000GT N/A
> This weekend I'm doing my spark plugs, Fuel Filter, and checking
the
> compression on my 94' 3000GT N/A. I would like to thank Eric Gross
for
> the helpful and informative VFAQS on his Team3s website
>
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/ . I'm
trying to take care of all the
> 120k service I can do myself, to
hopefully help cut costs. After I
> have done all I can, I will let a
shop/dealership do the rest. I
> noticed that on Eric's Spark Plug VFAQ he
doesn't list a part number
> for spark plug cables, which I'm guessing at
120k they should be
> replaced again, right?
>
> nevermind
found it (MD193980). Lets see what else I need to do for my
> 120k
service, Tensioner, Belts (Timing, Steering, A/C), water pump, and
>
thermostat, Is that it?
>
> All I have heard on the 120k service is
that it's the 60k service done
> all over again nothing more, if I'm
wrong please correct me. If there
> is anything else that I can easily do
while I'm under the hood to check
> for anything needing replacement,
advice will be much appreciated.
> Recently I started having some
acceleration problems, when giving it
> some gas I feel the engine kinda
putter/stutter a little bit (doesn't
> happen all the time). People have
told me all of the above, Fuel
> Injectors, Fuel Filter, or Spark Plugs
could be the problem. I was
> wondering if anyone has any suggestions on
what the problem might be?
> I was also wondering if anyone could
recommend anything to clean off
> the Intake Plenum, because mine is kind
of dirty.
>
> Philip K.
> 94' 3000GT N/A
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 13:27:46 -0500
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: All wheel steering question
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gerhard
Sent: Monday, June 09,
2003 12:37 PM
I'm thinking that someone had posted a message about testing the all-wheel
steering by having the car adequately supported on stands and then ran the car
up to 50mph and turned the wheel to observe the rear steering.
<<<SNIP>>>
This is how the service manual instructs you to not only check the 4WS's
operation, but to bleed air out of the system if the fluid has been changed or
any part of the fluid system has been broken. I'd say it's safe as long as
the car isn't going anywhere.
Didn't hurt mine.
- -Jeff Crabtree
St. Louis, MO
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 12:40:27 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Doing a bit of the 120K service myself on my 94' 3000GT
N/A..
> I also did a compression check on the front 3
> cylinders, I
found what I had suspected the
> 5th cylinder was low. I squirted a few
drops
> of oil in there and the compression came back
> to normal.
So I'm going to get some
> pricing on a valve job here soon.
I think that would tend to indicate worn piston rings rather than valve
problems in your 5th cylinder.
> Another point of interest, when I took off the
> intake plenum,
I noticed that there was a bit
> of the old nasty oil sludge in
there.
Unless it's really thick (1/8" or more) and really slimy, it's fairly
normal from what I've seen on numerous 3/Ss I've pulled apart.
> That would probably be because of the valve problem
> and
possibly an EGR problem?
Possibly, but from my experience, I doubt it.
> I have also heard that there are filters you can put on the PCV to
> help alleviate the Oil kick back, any word on these?
I'd think you'd need to clean such a filter pretty often, which would be
inconvenient... Also, most of the ones I've seen vent to atmosphere, which could
cause you to fail your emissions test in some states.
What you might want to try if you suspect oil in the intake from the
PCV/breather is a catch can. They do work - I had one on my old NA 3000GT
and I have 2 on my current VR-4. I only get about 1cc of oil in the can
every few thousand miles, though.
Or you can buy a pretty aluminum one from GReddy or Cusco for around
$90.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 16:06:52 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Doing a bit of the 120K service myself on my 94' 3000GT
N/A..
I just installed Krankvents and suspect that they will eliminate the 'oil
in the intake/pipes' problem. Well, that was the reason for buying
them! I'll let you know in a couple of days!
Ken Stanton
91 Pearl White Stealth TT
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 15:59:12 -0500
From: "Philip Kennedy" <
pkennedy@sfigroupinc.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Doing a bit of the 120K service myself on my 94' 3000GT
N/A..
Eric,
Thanks as always, you kick ass. Guess what I'm doing
this next weekend, I'm going to eat a whole can of Skippy peanut butter. No not
really, I'm going to use a Peter Pan peanut butter jar (Peter Pan chunky with
honey is the BoMB!) and make my very own catch can. As before I will follow one
of your very well made VFAQ's which have saved me a nice chunk of change, I'm
guessing, doing it myself so far.
Philip K.
94' 3000GT N/A
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 17:10:11 -0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
brian.geisel@hp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Power per upgrades
Hey y'all!
I am totally ticked, I ran a 13.05 at the track the
other day. Totally not what I was hoping to run. I'm looking to make
the mod to get myself running 12s, but I'm not sure what would get me
there. Here's my setup:
450cc inj, w/ AFC & Supra Pump
DR 500 turbos, K&N FIPK, improved
pre-cats
udrive pulley, fidanza flywheel
1-1.05 atm boost
I'm running a totally stock exhaust except for the pre-cats. ATR
high-flow cat my next mod? Anyone seen exhaust modifications make tangible
improvements? Independent of the cats (just a cat, or just an exhaust
keeping stock cat)?
What about intercooler upgrades, how much farther can I push the boost if I
upgrade those?
Thanx for the input,
geis
------------------------------
Its your exhaust, but..with a bleeder valve on good exhaust as the ONLY
mods..I used to nail 12.8s.
- ---
Now offering replacement
Toyota/Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Porsche/SAAB/Volvo parts Where do you buy YOUR brakes
from?
orders@speedtoys.com Maybe
I can help..asking is free. :) "If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Improving the exhaust WILL make a difference : )
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 09 Jun 2003 20:00:58 -0700
From: Steve Hennigar <
garpike@chartermi.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Could I be lucky?
First of all, thanks for prior help regarding the transmission problem
with my 92 R/T, automatic.
New experience. While driving about 45 mph, and hitting passing gear,
the engine quit. Now. Shifted into neutral but couldn't get it
to
fire. Coasted to a stop, couldn't get it to fire. It's now in
my
garage, can't get it to fire.
It was really low on gas prior to the problem, but I've put about 4
gallons into it and it makes no difference. Could there be an easy
solution to this problem, or am I about to write another monster check?
The only other relevant item I can think of is that the TCM was just
replaced and all I have done mileage-wise is drive it the 5 miles home
from the transmission shop, and about another 5 miles showing it to a
prospective buyer. (That's when it quit :-( )
Thanks in advance for any words of wisdom.
By the way, both vehicles are for sale.
Steve Hennigar
92R/T, 92 R/T TT.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 18:07:59 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Help needed to set up TurboXS Dual BC.
OK, the bottom line is that I've got the dual BC installed and I'm seeing
.4 bar on the boost gauge. I didn't install this myself - I had a shop do
it, and I figured that I'd be able to set things up from list and web info, and
some help from friends, etc. It never dawned on me that the installer
would leave the BC *totally* closed.
I finally tried it myself and found that that was the case, so I cranked it
out the 3 turns counterclockwise (as per instructions) to give me stock boost
(theoretically), then two more turns counterclockwise to give me 2 more
psi. JUST to see if anything showed up. Nothing. Still .4bar.
My peak-hold boost gauge is still showing .5 bar (peak) from *some* point in the
last couple of weeks since it was installed, but I can't imagine how...
Unless a hose is loose somewhere and it's blowing off more than .4 bar.
But everything appears and feels tight. Does anyone have any wisdom to
share on this particular BC setup? Or any ideas where the installer might
have made an error?
I'm going in for an AWD dyno session tomorrow afternoon with Geoff, and I
think I'm just throwing away my money-- I'm getting no significant boost,
and I have little or no clue how to set up my SAFC2 other than setting all the
fuel maps at conservative rich settings to protect the engine. But even
that is academic if I'm not getting any significant boost...
All I'm looking for is "what to tell the installer to look for" tomorrow,
since I'm not an engine guy, and I never will be... If anyone can give
me
*any* insight as to where to start him looking, I'll be forever
grateful...
1991 VR-4, 13C turbos clipped 5, 550cc injectors, Supra pump wired full,
TurboXS Dual stage BC, Greddy-S BOV, SAFC2 fuel adjustments set at -30 (low and
high) for all 12 rpm steps: 800, 1600, 2200, 2800, 3200, 3800, 4400, 5000, 5600,
6400, 7000, 7600.
Thanks!
Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 09 Jun 2003 21:35:45 -0400
From: Jim Smith <
jhsmith@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Could I be lucky?
> Steve Hennigar wrote:
>
> First of all, thanks for prior
help regarding the transmission problem
> with my 92 R/T,
automatic.
>
> New experience. While driving about 45 mph,
and hitting passing gear,
> the engine quit. Now. Shifted into
neutral but couldn't get it to
> fire. Coasted to a stop, couldn't
get it to fire. It's now in my
> garage, can't get it to
fire.
>
> It was really low on gas prior to the problem, but I've
put about 4
> gallons into it and it makes no difference. Could
there be an easy
> solution to this problem, or am I about to write
another monster
> check? The only other relevant item I can think
of is that the TCM
> was just replaced and all I have done mileage-wise
is drive it the 5
> miles home from the transmission shop, and about
another 5 miles
> showing it to a prospective buyer. (That's when
it quit :-( )
>
> Thanks in advance for any words of
wisdom.
>
> By the way, both vehicles are for sale.
>
> Steve Hennigar
> 92R/T, 92 R/T TT.
Possibly a burned up fuel pump. Most people don't realize, that the
(in the gas tank) fuel pump uses the gas in the tank to keep the pump cool.
If the gas is ran down very low, you don't get the cooling that you
should.
I've been told almost 20 years ago to always keep the tank half full when
the vehicle has this type of fuel pump!!!
Good luck!
Jim Smith
- --
Blaming the gun for murder, is like
blaming the car for hit and run!
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 20:47:49 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Help needed to set up TurboXS Dual BC.
Never used the TurboXS boost controller, but the problem you are describing
sounds more like the BC is letting too much air pressure to the wastegate rather
than not letting enough. Wastegates operate on pressure. Once a
certain pressure is reached (via vacuum/boost hose), the actuator pulls the
wastegate open. Every wastegate has a set point, not sure what it is on
stock vr4 turbos, but my guess would be 6-7 psi, which is about .4 bar.
Boost controllers control the boost by interfering in the vacuum/boost reference
hose between the intake (under pressure) and the WG actuator. If you were
to fully close the BC, the only limit to boost pressure would be what the turbos
can make. (same as pulling the pressure hose off the WG fully). Now,
if the BC is fully open, and is allowing all the pressure by, then the WG's will
open at their set response. I would double check their vacuum
routing. The best way to route all of this is to tee into the BOV hose (or
any other manifold source) which goes to the boost controller, which goes to a
tee and each opposite side of the tee goes to each wastegate actuator...
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 09 Jun 2003 22:14:44 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
philip@supercar-engineering.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Help needed to set up TurboXS Dual BC.
If the MBC does not react to adjustments correctly then I dunno what to
think. Even if they messed up the installation, you would be seeing too
much boost as opposed to too little boost. Strange. :-O
Philip
At 09:47 PM 6/9/2003, cody wrote:
> The best way to route all of this
is to tee into the BOV hose (or any
> other manifold source) which goes
to the boost controller, which goes
> to a tee and each opposite side of
the tee goes to each wastegate
> actuator...
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 21:28:30 -0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
brian.geisel@hp.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Power per upgrades
Dang dude! What were your mphs like? w/ intake? Was that
turbo back replacement, or cat back, or what?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 6:28
PM
>
> Its your exhaust, but..with a bleeder valve on good exhaust
as the ONLY
> mods..I used to nail 12.8s.
------------------------------
I don't recall, but it was December 13th, Houston, and it was in the low
30s that morning. I drove down from Tulsa and met up 2 or 3 Dallas area
folk to the import battle that day.
On Mon, 9 Jun 2003, Geisel, Brian wrote:
> Dang dude! What were your mphs like? w/ intake? Was
that turbo back
> replacement, or cat back, or what?
- ---
Now offering replacement
Toyota/Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Porsche/SAAB/Volvo parts Where do you buy YOUR brakes
from?
orders@speedtoys.com Maybe
I can help..asking is free. :) "If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 09:49:43 -0400
From:
bryan.goldman@ps.ge.comSubject:
Team3S: Stealth Vs Stealth ES What's the Difference?
I presently have a 92 Stealth (sohc) with 143,000 miles on it and have been
thinking about getting an ES model. In the past two days I have driven a 93 ES
(standard) with 119,000 miles ($7,000) and a 93 ES (auto) with 76,000 miles
($5000) on it, both have been kept in pretty good shape. I have not been
impressed with either of the cars performance compared to my cars (all are
stock). I am wondering what is supposed the major difference between the two
models or if I just happen to have tested two slow Stealth.
Bryan Goldman
92 Stealth (sohc)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 10:10:53 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Stealth Vs Stealth ES What's the Difference?
I would have to say that you either have a fast SOHC or these are slow
DOHC's. My fiancé has a 92 ES with 130k on the dial, and that thing
absolutely flies. We have raced her car against a Mazda Tribute, 2000
Intrepid, 96 Intrepid, Focus ZX3, and many more comparable vehicles and she
whomps them every time. My TT, of course, crushes her, but I would hope!
The answer is not obvious here, whether your car or the others are to blame, but
the DOHC is no joke, you should have good solid pull from it and it should
impress!
Whenever test driving a car, I recommend to people that they let the owner
of the car drive it first, so that they can see how it has been driven. It
has saved us from buying many an abused car. Best of luck.
Ken Stanton
2 Stealth family
91 Pearl White Stealth TT
92 White
Stealth ES
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 07:23:49 -0700
From: Michael Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Stealth Vs Stealth ES What's the Difference?
Bryan,
The following Team3S web page has the specifications for the various years
and models for both Stealth and 3000GT.
The ES is a DOHC and is listed as having 35 percent more HP than the SOHC
(base). Also, the ES is 100 lbs heavier. I would expect the ES to have more
pep than your base SOHC vehicle.
- --------------------------------------------------------------
Michael
A. Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 13:32:18 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
3S-Racers: RE: Team3S: Help needed to set up TurboXS Dual BC.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: cody
[mailto:overclck@satx.rr.com]
<snip>
Yeah. What he said :-)
The stock wastegates are set up around 5-7psi, so it seems that your boost
controller is not restricting the boost "seen" by the wastegate actuator, like
Cody said. Here's what I'd do:
* Fully tighten the adjustment on the boost
controller -
compress the spring as much
as possible.
* Carefully
(low RPM), floor the car and
keep an eye on the boost. If it's
working
correctly, then boost will rise fairly rapidly
and
you'll need to get off the throttle
to prevent
overboosting.
* If the above works, back off the adjustment
on
the boost controller until you achieve your
desired boost, and then
adjust the second
"stage" portion similarly.
* If the above doesn't work, then I'd suspect
a faulty boost
controller or a boost controller
that's not installed in the correct
vacuum lines.
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#176
***************************************