Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, June 5
2003 Volume 02 : Number 173
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 19:00:02 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ERG Block Off Plates
I agree 100% - total wasted effort. At WOT, EGR is disabled, and it
is only used to protect your engine and the environment.
Ken Stanton
91 Stealth TT
> They harm emissions, add 0Hp or torque, and increase
combustion
> chamber temps.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 19:10:35 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: URGENT Clutch Push Rod Adjustment?
Hey anyone got any input on this? I need to get it back together
tonight!! Thanks!
Ken
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Sent:
Wednesday, June 04, 2003 5:44 PM
> I'm doing the master cylinder replacement, and in the manual it
calls
> for the push rod to be measured (under hood, not inside cabin!)
which
> is nearly impossible but also to adjust it! I'm just
wondering if anyone
> has ever done this and has any clue what they're
getting at. I managed to
> pull this rod right out of the booster,
did I hurt anything? It doesn't
> look like it, but ya never
know.
>
> Thanks!
> Ken Stanton
> 91 Pearl White Stealth
R/T TT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 19:17:44 -0500
From: "Nick McDermott" <
eire1274@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: My
project has arrived
I drove down to Oklahoma City yesterday and collected the 93 VR-4 that will
provide me endless stress (and enjoyment) and test the strength of my marriage
this summer. The damage was described to me as a 20Mph curb romp, but it
must have been one hell of a romp. Both front rims (stock Mitsubishi
chrome) are dented, the tie rod assembly is totally severed and the outer ends
warped, and the driver's side wheel assembly has come off of the joint bolt at
the lower suspension arm. Transmission is entirely gone (was crunched
pretty good by the offending curb and removed by the salvage lot prior to
purchase) and the airbag is deployed.
There's minor body damage to the front spoiler, probably re: curb, and the
usual blemishes one expects in a 10 year old car, but paint actually
(mostly)
seems only a few years old, still glossy.
The surprise was finding a Borla cat-back exhaust, K&N FIPK,
aftermarket blow-off valve (atmosphere vent, but I'll be changing that),
aftermarket brakes, and the engine itself in very good condition. Pretty
much an in-car teardown and clean up of the engine, make a few modifications,
redo front end steering, suspension, and all 4 brakes pads and rotors, and bolt
on a good Getrag 5 speed (yes, we decided on the 5 speed for sake of easy
install, 6 speed when time and money allow) and we'll be on the road. Give
me 3 months to get the cosmetic stuff done, and I'll meet you guys somewhere and
show off!
Nick McDermott
1st time import owner!
------------------------------
I replaced my brake and clutch booster couple weeks ago. I did not do the
adjustments, but I probably should have.
I just went to the garage and tried to pull the rod out of the old booster
and I could not. I used just fingers, no pliers.
If your brakes still work, after you put it all together, the biggest thing
that you could have damaged is some dust seals, or even nothing at all.
This is all I can help you with.
Philip
At 07:10 PM 6/4/2003, Ken Stanton wrote:
> > I'm doing the master
cylinder replacement, and in the manual it
> > calls for the push rod
to be measured (under hood, not inside
> > cabin!) which is nearly
impossible but also to adjust it! I'm
> just wondering if anyone has
ever done this and has any clue what
> they're getting at. I
managed to pull this rod right out of the
> booster, did I hurt
anything? It doesn't look like it, but ya never
> know.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 20:32:52 -0400
From: Michael Tanenbaum
<
gtg509d@mail.gatech.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: car jerks at low rpm(~1000) after rain
Hi everyone,
How are you? My car had been running pretty well, that is, until it
rained. I
have noticed before that after rain or washing the car it
acts a little bit
off. Specifically, when I take my foot off the
throttle, the car starts to
jerk at low speeds/rpms (say up to 25
mph). When I come to a stop the rpms
dive down to ~500 and then jump
back up. I had some issues before with the
wiring to the TPS, but
replaced the plug at the TPS which pretty much fixed
that.
So the question is, what might the water from rain/washing do to the car to
cause these changes? Is there a particular leak to check for, or might
it be
shorting out some wires, or getting into the fuel system? Thank
you so much
for your help.
Michael
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 04 Jun 2003 21:22:09 -0400
From: Mike Chapleski <
chaplesk@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Pressure loss in fuel line from tank to filter
Anyway, I wanted to replace the filter this season but did not see an easy
*threaded* solution to connect to the supply line from the pump. It looks like
the easiest way might be to attach a short hose and clamp to the supply line,
then use a sequence hose end, adapters, and fittings till an aftermarket filter
with -6 AN ports can be attached. This upgrade will have to wait till next
season.
I removed my fuel filter last year and replaced all the lines and
connections in the engine compartment with Earl's.
I purchased a -8 Hose -14 Mm X 1.5 connector from Earl's Indy
(
www.earlsindy.com). Part # 3001EBH for
$14.08. This connector bolted
directly to the fitting from the supply
line (before the Mitsu fuel
filter). I then ran AN-8 up to an Earl's
fuel filter that was directly
screwed into the fuel rail. I replaced
the front/back fuel rail
connector line with -8 and ran a -8 line out
the end on the rear rail
to an Aeromotive FPR. Then I ran -6 line back
down to the return line.
I mounted an electronic fuel pressure gauge
in the FPR.
While it was cheaper to install the fuel filter directly
to the fuel
rail, I would not recommend it. I had sealing problems
where it
connected to the fuel rail. Finally I was able to countersink
the fuel
rail and add a large O-ring to get it just right. Took
several
iterations of leaking gas to tweak it.
Mike Chapleski
Miami, FL
'95 Stealth RT TT
3SI # 0018
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 05 Jun 2003 13:54:29 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ERG Block Off Plates
Has anyone investigated the possibility that the EGR valve may leak air
from the pressurized plenum into the exhaust fitting, or if the plates
themselves leak under the same circumstances?
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Sent:
Wednesday, June 04, 2003 5:00 PM
I agree 100% - total wasted effort. At WOT, EGR is disabled, and it
is only used to protect your engine and the environment.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 05 Jun 2003 14:02:26 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Pressure loss in fuel line from tank to filter
>> I purchased a -8 Hose -14 Mm X 1.5 connector from Earl's
Indy
>> (
www.earlsindy.com). Part # 3001EBH for
$14.08. This connector
>> bolted directly to the fitting from
the supply line (before the Mitsu
>> fuel filter).
Thanks for the tip, Mike! The earlsindy web site was no help locating this
part. I do see that Earl's makes an adapter 9894DBH that has a female M14x1.5 on
one end and a male -6 AN on the other end. I didn't take the fuel line coupling
apart, but it looks like the male threads are on the tank side and the female on
the filter side. Are you saying a female M14x1.5 threads onto the factory male
threads? If so, this is great!
Thanks.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 05 Jun 2003 14:11:40 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: ERG Block Off Plates
> Has anyone investigated the possibility that
> the EGR valve may
leak air from the
> pressurized plenum into the exhaust fitting,
>
or if the plates themselves leak under the
> same circumstances?
If you use a stock gasket on the plate that attaches to where the EGR valve
used to be, it won't leak under boost. I did have a problem where
boost was
able to leak out into the exhaust, but that was caused by the
vacuum line
blowing off of the EGR valve input, which allowed it to
stay/blow open under
boost. A hose clamp on the hose fixed that, but I
suppose if you had a bad EGR
valve it might allow boost to leak out through
the exhaust fitting.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 10:23:04 -0400
From: Bill Ma <
BillMa@FLAGCOMM.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Pressure loss in fuel line from tank to filter
Jeff,
You are correct, this is the part I used to connect to the hard line coming
from the fuel tank, fits perfectly
9894DBH 14 x 1.5mm -6 Female saginaw to AN male
adapter
Bill
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius
[mailto:jlucius@stealth316.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2003 10:02 AM
>> I purchased a -8 Hose -14 Mm X 1.5 connector from Earl's
Indy
>> (
www.earlsindy.com). Part # 3001EBH for
$14.08. This connector
>> bolted directly to the fitting from
the supply line (before the Mitsu
>> fuel filter).
Thanks for the tip, Mike! The earlsindy web site was no help locating this
part. I do see that Earl's makes an adapter 9894DBH that has a female M14x1.5 on
one end and a male -6 AN on the other end. I didn't take the fuel line coupling
apart, but it looks like the male threads are on the tank side and the female on
the filter side. Are you saying a female M14x1.5 threads onto the factory male
threads? If so, this is great!
Thanks.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 08:02:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Anthony Tse <
tse1631@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Upgrade
Thanks for the reply, I got one more question. Do I
need to regap the
spark plugs if I run boost over
stock ? to.034? What happen if I don't do
that?
Anthony
- --- Marc Jonathan Jacobs <
Marc.J.Jacobs@alcatel.com>
wrote:
> No lines go over the dash. The boost gauge I have has 1
hose, and 2
> wires for the light. The hose comes through the
firewall above where
> the steering wheel goes through. The
rheostat that controls the dash
> lights is located right by your left
knee as you drive. I tapped into
> the wires right there at the
rheostat.
>
> You can drill a hole in the dash where the A-pillar
meets it, and run
> wires etc up there, or you can go around the outside
edge of the dash
> next to the door (that's what I did).
>
>
You can see great improvements in power by adding a simple manual
> boost
controller. Go for the ball/spring type, not the aquarium valve
>
type. These are less than $100. Tune it to 15PSI max (using your
> newly installed boost gauge). Your car makes 9PSI stock, and you
can
> estimate 5HP per PSI. Was 305HP, now 335HP. Check ebay
"manual
> boost".
>
> Gut your pre-cats = free. It
allows the turbos to spool quicker and
> get more HP sooner, but it won't
give you more peak HP.
>
> There are cheap ways to get more fuel
flow too by rewiring the fuel
> pump & relay. You might invest
in a A/F gauge for <$50 too, and tap
> it into one of the O2 sensor
wires to make sure you don't run lean.
> JCWhitney.com has
them.
>
> Boost gauge $50, Cheap Boost controller $30, rewire fuel
pump $25, A/F
> gauge $35 = $140
------------------------------
yes. else you will have spark blowout at high speed WOT (wide open
throttle) even with 14.7 psi boost. It causes the engine to stumble under
those conditions. been there, done it, got the t-shirt.
Chuck Willis
- -----Original Message-----
From: Anthony Tse
[mailto:tse1631@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2003 10:03 AM
Thanks for the reply, I got one more question. Do I
need to regap the
spark plugs if I run boost over
stock ? to.034? What happen if I don't do
that?
Anthony
------------------------------
Yes, your plugs should be gapped down to .034 or .032 to avoid spark
blowout due to the higher boost.
Gabe Simoes
1992 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo
- - K&N, EGR BlockOffs, Port & Polished Heads, Ported Manifolds,
Wiseco
Forged Pistons, GTPro 347s, MBC, DN Y-Pipe, TurboXS RFL, Stillen DP,
3SX Crank Pulley, RPS 6 Puck, Weight Redux
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 05 Jun 2003 12:09:45 -0400
From: Mike Chapleski <
chaplesk@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Pressure loss in fuel line from tank to filter
Yes, Jeff I bought a M14.5x1.5 female to -8. I originally tried to
get
this directly from Earl's and they told me they did not carry it, but
referred me to Earl's Indy. I believe this may be a custom fitting
they
make. Mine was an -8 so the part number would be different for
-6. I
would give them a call.
Mike
Jeff Lucius wrote:
>>>I purchased a -8 Hose -14 Mm X 1.5 connector from Earl's
Indy
>>>(
www.earlsindy.com). Part # 3001EBH for
$14.08. This connector
>>>bolted directly to the fitting from
the supply line (before the Mitsu
>>>fuel filter).
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 10:32:32 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Upgrade
> Yes, your plugs should be gapped down to .034 or .032 to avoid spark
> blowout due to the higher boost.
Some cars do not exhibit this problem. My old VR-4 was one of
them. In the next couple of days, I'll know about my current VR-4.
The previous owner gapped them to 0.034 before I bought the car, and I pulled
them this weekend and put them all back to 0.039. Humpty should be back
together again tonight or tomorrow.
If you don't have spark blowout, gapping the plugs down 20% from the
factory rating will decrease both your fuel economy and your power, all else
equal.
I have a suspicion that some spark blowout problems can be resolved by
better grounding (the dealer who did my 60k before I bought the car attached the
rear grounding strap to the EGR bolt rather than the plenum stay!). No
data at this point, but I'm pretty sure we can benefit from some better engine
grounding.
------------------------------
Hey Cody & all you other tire guru's:
The boss has given me permission to buy new wheels & tires for my 92
3000GT SL. All the engine work is done, the suspension pieces are on order
now there's just wheels. I have to do something to get all that extra
horsepower on the road. I'm pretty sure I want to go up to a 17" rim but
not sure about 18". My budget is in the $1500 neighborhood and this
is my daily driver. What should I be looking at? There are far too
many choices.
TIA
Jim W
92 3000GT "the money pit"
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 14:38:32 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Wheel & Tire Question
I would recommend a 17" wheel, 17/8 with a 235 (possibly 245) width tire in
what ever is the correct sidewall height as to no totally throw off your
speedometer.
I am sure Cody will help you out with the details
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 12:04:00 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Wheel & Tire Question
18"-ers would look great, but your budget is barely enough for 17's, so
plan to spend some out of pocket. New, *budget* rims in 17x8.5" are ~$250
each ($1100, shipped, with NO tax); nice ones (SSR GT-1, for example) are ~$380
each ($1700, shipped, with NO tax). (Cheap rims can be had for $150 each
or so, but they don't fare too well on heavy cars like ours - you'd be throwing
your money away, unless you only travel on smooth roads.) You can preview
various wheel choices on your car on the
www.TireRack.com website.
A lot of folks (including Cody) have raved about the Yoko AVS ES-100, but I
don't know current prices in 255/40ZR17 or 245/45ZR17 (stock). Refer to
Cody's "Plus Sizing" page for theory and great info about upgrading
your
wheels:
www.Team3S.com/FAQplussizing.htm
Best,
- ---Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 15:23:50 -0400
From: "Williams, Tommy F" <
WilliamsTF@bernstein.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Best way to sell a Stealth R/T
Can someone offer the best way to sell a car? I'm looking to sell my NA car
that I've owned since they came out and would like to find it a good
home.........
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 05 Jun 2003 14:36:19 -0500
From: Matt Costanza <
mcostanza@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Best way to sell a Stealth R/T
Autotrader.com has worked well for a few of my friends. Autotrader.com
seems to get more traffic than autobytel.com.
Regards,
- --
Matt Costanza
Austin, Tx USA
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 15:04:45 -0500
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Best
way to sell a Stealth R/T
Actually, I would definitely 2nd that. I bought my car from a listing on
Autotrader.com, I went to Manassas, VA to get it, and I'm from Missouri!! Go
autotrader...
-b
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 16:14:06 -0400
From: "Ken Lovell" <
wklovell@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Best way to sell a Stealth R/T
I'll add my vote. Bought mine off Autotrader.com from a listing in
Aspen, Colorado and drove it back to Florida.
Ken
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 14:16:00 -0600
From: "Curtis McConnell" <
Curtis.McConnell@pulte.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Best way to sell a Stealth R/T
Bought mine in Florida and drove it back to Aspen!!
Curtis McConnell
1995 Vr-4 Spyder
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 13:46:24 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Best way to sell a Stealth R/T
Just bought a '94 R/T today !!! Found it on Autotrader.com
Actually can someone do a VIN decode for me or Carfax or
something if you can.
JB3AM54J8RY039024
I just want to see if it all checks out...
Thanks,
- -Erik
(good luck with selling your car!)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 16:44:46 -0400
From: "Williams, Tommy F" <
WilliamsTF@bernstein.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Best way to sell a Stealth R/T
Thanks all - I placed the add and it's up already. I recently bought
a 1996 VR-4 so I'll have to let the other 3S go.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2003 20:23:41 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@spamcop.net>
Subject:
Vin decoding (was: RE: Team3S: Best way to sell a Stealth R/T)
Erik,
From the manual (or Team3S VIN page or Dave Black's webpage) the letter
designations appear to decode to:
J = Country =
Japan
B = Make = Dodge
3 = Vehicle type =
Passenger car
A = Model = Driver and Passenger air
bags
M = Line = Stealth FWD
5 = Price class =
Sports
4 = Body = 3-door Hatchback
J = Engine =
3.0 dm3 (181.4 cu.in.) <DOHC-MFI>
8 = Check
digit
R = Model year = 1994
Y = Plant = Nagoya-I
Plant
039024 = Serial number
We'll let Carfax determine the rest.
- --Flash!
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#173
***************************************