Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, June 4
2003 Volume 02 : Number 172
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 16:52:47 -0400
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 98
Bumper on 95 3G?
You might need to relocate the fog lights.
Alex
- -----Original Message-----
From: Russ Williams
Sent: Tuesday, June
03, 2003 3:48 PM
Will a 1998 Bumper, Absorber and Reinforcement fit on a 1995 3G
without
any major problems?
Thanks,
Russ
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 13:57:00 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Pressure loss in fuel line from tank to filter
So if your fuel pump is not being run at its limit and can provide 4+psi
over what is required in the rail (~68psi when boost is 25psi), then is the
pressure loss in the rubber lines really a concern? You'd be working your
pump a little harder, but if one's fuel pump can handle 72psi at 1gpm(Supra
pump), is there a need to upgrade the lines?
It looks like in the extreme case of 1.0gpm demand and 75psi required in
the rail, that 4psi would make the difference between meeting demand and not
meeting demand for the Supra pump (1.0125gpm @70psi vs. 0.9246gpm @75psi).
However, for anything less than 1gpm (almost any injector under 720) or at
a boost pressure under 27psi, it looks like the line upgrades would be
unnecessary, except for the extra strain on the fuel pump.
Not at all trying to be a
smart@$$ - just
trying to look at the whole situation...
Jeff Lucius wrote:
<snip>
> Running 720's at 1.0 gpm (~87%
IDC) -->4.041 psi loss
>
> Here are the results for 1 gpm flow
(227 lph) under same conditions as
> above:
>
> -6 AN hard
line (0.3125" ID)-->1.394 psi
> -8 AN hard line (0.4375" ID)
-->0.282 psi
> <snip>
> It looks like it would definitely
be worth upgrading the supply line
> to -6 or -8 AN if maxxing out 720
injectors.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 21:57:07 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Pressure loss in fuel line from tank to filter
I concur completely with Erik's analysis.
As long as the pump (or pumps) can deliver the volume needed at the fuel
injector pressure plus the pressure loss in the system, there is no *need* to
use larger lines. Granted, the system is not optimal but it is far from
deficient. It is for precisely this reason, and the fact that most of our
fastest cars use the stock fuel supply lines, that I have no plans to upgrade
the fuel lines between pump and filter.
In fact, I had no particular desire to use larger lines in the engine bay.
But I needed a better FPR because my rear-compartment battery precluded me from
easily using Erik's excellent fuel pump re-wire mod (low voltage at low load,
near-system voltage at high load).
With the better FPR came the snazzy braided line and fittings. Well,
regular rubber fuel hose would work, but where is the style in that? :)
One benefit of the engine bay fuel line upgrades should be to eliminate any
chance of "low fuel pressure" at the last injectors. I have installed two fuel
pressure sensors, one at the Aeromotive FPR and one just after the fuel filter.
After I get everything wired in I'll report what the pressure difference is. I
just need to finish installing the pyrometers for my Autometer dual intake temp
gauge (on inlet and exit pipes for the left IC), wire in this gauge and the
second fuel pressure gauge, and re-arrange the gauges on my A-pillar and in the
glovebox.
Another benefit of a better FPR should be improved, that is, more
consistent and accurate, control of the fuel pressure.
I think engine bay fuel system upgrades are good. But upgrading the line
between pump and filter is hardly worth it, from a performance standpoint,
unless someone is maxxing out 720 injectors. I have no plans to build my engine
to that point. IMHO, boosting voltage to a Supra pump (flow more volume at any
pressure up to relief valve opening) is the best and cheapest way to overcome
fuel system pressure losses and satisfy fuel flow requirements (up to maxxing
out 720s).
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Sent:
Tuesday, June 03, 2003 2:57 PM
So if your fuel pump is not being run at its limit and can provide 4+psi
over what is required in the rail (~68psi when boost is 25psi), then is the
pressure loss in the rubber lines really a concern? You'd be working your
pump a little harder, but if one's fuel pump can handle 72psi at 1gpm(Supra
pump), is there a need to upgrade the lines?
It looks like in the extreme case of 1.0gpm demand and 75psi required in
the rail, that 4psi would make the difference between meeting demand and not
meeting demand for the Supra pump (1.0125gpm @70psi vs. 0.9246gpm @75psi).
However, for anything less than 1gpm (almost any injector under 720) or at
a boost pressure under 27psi, it looks like the line upgrades would be
unnecessary, except for the extra strain on the fuel pump.
Not at all trying to be a
smart@$$ - just
trying to look at the whole situation...
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 19:23:39 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Pressure loss in fuel line from tank to filter
Couple notations...
Firstly, ever flow tested the factory filter? It sucks in comparison
to a aftermarket Aeromotive, etc. Also, the banjo fitting atop the filter
is not the best for flow. One more - take a look at the fitting to the
fuel rail. Actually remove it from the rail and look at the outlet of that
fitting. It is much smaller than -5an.
I've done this to my AWD Talon, replaced the entire hose from fuel tank to
fuel rail to AEM FPR, then using stock return line. Made a huge
difference. Fuel pressure rises faster, I have less problems under high
boost (20 psi), and seems like a worthwhile mod, considering parts cost $150
total. (half of which was the filter)
- -Cody
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff Lucius
> Sent:
Tuesday, June 03, 2003 4:57 PM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Re: Team3S:
Pressure loss in fuel line from tank to filter
>
> I concur
completely with Erik's analysis.
>
> As long as the pump (or pumps)
can deliver the volume needed at the
> fuel injector pressure plus the
pressure loss in the system, there is
> no
> *need* to use larger
lines. Granted, the system is not optimal but it is far
> from deficient.
It is for precisely this reason, and the fact that most of
> our fastest
cars use the stock fuel supply lines, that I have no plans to
> upgrade
the fuel lines between pump and filter.
>
> In fact, I had no
particular desire to use larger lines in the engine
> bay. But I
needed a better FPR because my rear-compartment battery
> precluded me
from easily using Erik's excellent fuel pump re-wire mod
> (low voltage
at low load, near-system voltage at high load).
>
>
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/3000GT/FPReWire/page1.html>
> With the better FPR came the snazzy braided line and fittings. Well,
> regular rubber fuel hose would work, but where is the style in
that?
> :)
>
> One benefit of the engine bay fuel line
upgrades should be to
> eliminate any chance of "low fuel pressure" at
the last injectors. I
> have installed two fuel pressure sensors, one at
the Aeromotive FPR
> and one just after the fuel filter. After I get
everything wired in
> I'll report what the pressure difference is. I just
need to finish
> installing the pyrometers for my Autometer dual intake
temp gauge (on
> inlet and exit pipes for the left IC), wire in this
gauge and the
> second fuel pressure gauge, and rearrange the gauges on
my A-pillar
> and in the glovebox.
>
> Another benefit of a
better FPR should be improved, that is, more
> consistent and accurate,
control of the fuel pressure.
>
> I think engine bay fuel system
upgrades are good. But upgrading the
> line between pump and filter is
hardly worth it, from a performance
> standpoint, unless someone is
maxxing out 720 injectors. I have no
> plans to build my engine to that
point. IMHO, boosting voltage to a
> Supra pump (flow more volume at any
pressure up to relief valve
> opening) is the best and cheapest way to
overcome fuel system pressure
> losses and satisfy fuel flow requirements
(up to maxxing out 720s).
>
> Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/
------------------------------
Hi All,
I have this windshield saga and I need help from those who recently
replaced their windshields. Skip to the end if you want to help but do not
want to read the story.
I had a crack in my original windshield last year which have not been
bothering me since is was in the upper right corner. But, at Road America
those tech inspection guys did not allow cracked windshields, so it had to
be replaced.
I replaced it early in April. The moment I drove out of the shop I almost
ran over a curb. The windshield was warped and wavy and was distorting
everything near the A-pillars. I had no time left, so I went to Road
America with a distorted windshield.
I came back and requested to have that windshield replaced with one from
another manufacturer. They did. Only this time the distortion was right in
front of my eyes. I went to my local Waterford Hills track like that.
Uhh...
Next time the shop called me and asked to take a look at the new windshield
before they glue it in. It was warped just like the first one. A minivan
that was standing nearby got hidden completely behind the black stripe at
the edge of the windshield -- it was distorted that badly. I asked for
another one.
The shop is getting me another windshield now. This will be the 7th
windshield that they had to order for my car. Three were warped and three
were scratched.
Here is my question. Could someone who recently had a windshield replaced,
and who does not have these distortion problems, please look at windshield
identification and tell me the manufacturer. Thanks in advance.
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 23:34:09 -0400
From: Vedran <
1994TT@comcast.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Rear turbo removal problem???
I am trying to get the rear turbo out. I disconnected everything
except the metal pipe coming into the turbo, from the bottom (looks like its an
exhaust metal hose, its ribbed). There are two small bolts, going into the
bottom of the turbo, holing the metal hose and I got the closer bolt removed,
using a 10mm socket and a small metric (Allen) wrench. I cannot get to the
second bolt in the back. There is a metal heat shield and a lot of vacuum
hosed in the way. If anyone could give me an advice it would be
great. Thanks a lot...
Ved
94 Pearl Yellow TT
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 22:42:04 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rear turbo removal problem???
You missed step #1.
1) Remove rear taillights.
:)
Kidding.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 23:53:34 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@spamcop.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear turbo removal problem???
Ved,
The "ribbed" pipe is the oil return line and it is rigid enough to hold the
turbo relatively in position sometimes. I removed my front exhaust
manifold without fully removing the front turbo (just loosened it a bit) and
noticed that the oil return line was also rigid enough to not allow the turbo to
move toward the passenger side of the car very much.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Vedran
Sent: Tuesday, June 03,
2003 23:34
I am trying to get the rear turbo out. I disconnected everything
except the metal pipe coming into the turbo, from the bottom (looks like its an
exhaust metal hose, its ribbed). There are two small bolts, going into the
bottom of the turbo, holing the metal hose and I got the closer bolt removed,
using a 10mm socket and a small metric (Allen) wrench. I cannot get to the
second bolt in the back. There is a metal heat shield and a lot of vacuum
hosed in the way. If anyone could give me an advice it would be
great. Thanks a lot...
Ved
94 Pearl Yellow TT
------------------------------
Hello friends! I have had some really yucky luck. I put a used engine in my
92 es and did the 60k tune up. It ran great for about 2 months and the timing
belt tensioner bolt slipped because my old torque wrench registered wrong, so
you all know what happened. I have to sell it now because the company I worked
for shut the doors, I am a single Dad of a three year old baby girl and things
are really tough at the moment. I'm asking 3000.00 It has a newly rebuilt
transmission and is in really great shape other than the valves. It has a lot of
things replaced too numerous to mention, but I have a folder with all receipts
and all work done on it. I'm in Pottsboro Texas, 60 miles north of Dallas, any
help would be much appreciated, and if the price is too high make me an offer.
Mark.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 07:15:14 +0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Looking for a normal 3S windshield
I had mine replaced while living in Germany, but it does have a DOT code,
so...
Arva
M477 AS1 DOT49
43R-001082
Pilkington
Finland
No distortion. Good luck!
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://www.the-matthews.com/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R Mk1 (1.0
bar @ 64% BADC) A'PEXi Turbo Timer, Blitz Super Blow-Off Valve Magnecor spark
plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery Redline synth fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer
& diff= SPHvy) PF cryoed rotors, R4S pads, SS lines w/SBs, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec,
1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph 1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft
torque
------------------------------
Thanks. Pilkington were my windshields number 1 and 3. :-)
Philip
>I had mine replaced while living in Germany, but it does have a DOT
>code, so...
>
>Arva
>M477 AS1
DOT49
>43R-001082
>Pilkington
>Finland
>
>No
distortion. Good luck!
>
>- --
>Jim Matthews -
Yorkshire,
England
>mailto:jim@the-matthews.com
>http://www.the-matthews.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 07:59:58 -0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Looking for a normal 3S windshield
Phillip,
I would request an OEM windshield. When my wife had her windshield
replaced on her Toyota Solara, they used a non-OEM windshield and the distortion
was there at the A pillars. We promptly had them put in an OEM windshield
and no distortion.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 04 Jun 2003 13:23:48 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Pressure loss in fuel line from tank to filter
>> Firstly, ever flow tested the factory filter?
Nope. Have you?
Has anybody? If anybody knows the rated flow and the minimum particle size for
the factory filter please let us know. Of course I don't see what this has to do
with pressure loss in the lines. Anyway, I wanted to replace the filter this
season but did not see an easy *threaded* solution to connect to the supply line
from the pump. It looks like the easiest way might be to attach a short hose and
clamp to the supply line, then use a sequence hose end, adapters, and fittings
till an aftermarket filter with -6 AN ports can be attached. This upgrade will
have to wait till next season.
>> Also, the banjo fitting atop the filter is not the best for
flow.
Of course. And if you would have read my web page you would have seen I
measured the banjo bolt cross hole and hole through the shank and compared the
measurements to the replacement -6 AN adapter. But seriously, *minor*
restrictions over distances less than an inch have negligible effect on fuel
flow as far as pressure loss goes.
>> One more - take a look at the fitting to the fuel rail.
...
Again, if you would have read my web pages you would have seen that I
measured the inside diameters of the fuel rails, the supply line attachment, the
crossover pipe, and the FPR and compared these to the replacement -6 AN
parts.
If Cody or anybody wants to know what these measurements are, they can be
found in the web pages below.
------------------------------
I was thinking something similar to Cody in terms of the fuel lines when I
read the thread. Certainly the fuel pump can keep up, but if the lines are
not rigid, won't they act as a sort of capacitor as they swell when a bolus of
fuel comes down the line? Isn't this sort of why we replace the brake
lines with stainless steel braided ones? I know the fuel system isn't exactly
like the kind of hydraulic pressures in the brake system, but wouldn't a rigid
system be more responsive interims of pressure and flow changes?
Chuck Willis
- -----Original Message-----
From: cody
[mailto:overclck@satx.rr.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2003 7:24 PM
Couple notations...
Firstly, ever flow tested the factory filter? It sucks in comparison
to a aftermarket Aeromotive, etc. Also, the banjo fitting atop the filter
is not the best for flow. One more - take a look at the fitting to the
fuel rail. Actually remove it from the rail and look at the outlet of that
fitting. It is much smaller than -5an.
I've done this to my AWD Talon, replaced the entire hose from fuel tank to
fuel rail to AEM FPR, then using stock return line. Made a huge
difference. Fuel pressure rises faster, I have less problems under high
boost (20 psi), and seems like a worthwhile mod, considering parts cost $150
total. (half of which was the filter)
- -Cody
------------------------------
>My Stealth TT started fine this morning but after about 3 minutes of
>drive time, started not to respond to the throttle. The car was
still
>powered but refused to take gas. It would then wait until
the RPM's
>were just about to die and then kick back in again, all the
while
>keeping the pedal to the floor. It would allow me to open
the throttle
>to 6,000 RPM but after climbing would then die again.
On every
>occasion it will start fine and can move through the RPM's
quite fine
>once, then drops to almost stall. If I keep the
accelerator to the
>floor before it dies, it will then kick up one last
time to die for
>good, until restart....and then continues this
pattern.
I've seen a lot of good suggestions posted so far on this. But it sounds
like your problem is more than a small vacuum leak. There's one suggestion I
haven't seen yet, and this has happened to me twice before, and exhibited most
of the same symptoms you have described. Check ALL the intake and intercooler
pipe connections. The symptoms you describe sound very much like one of
these hoses has come completely loose. The intercooler hose connection on the
bottom side of the front turbo is a common culprit, and it's difficult to
see. I know this sounds obvious, but sometimes the obvious is the easiest
to overlook ;-). When this happened to me the last time, it took 4 of us almost
2 hours to finally find that problem.
Jeff W.
'92VR4
Belleville, MI
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 09:45:35 -0500
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Door
clicking issues, RESOLVED!
Well, for all those who remember my door locks clicking after driving, or
shutting the door, or whatever, the problem has been solved. I went ahead and
replaced the relay under the dash, MB543647, but, to no avail. After
taking apart the door panel to fix a "wobble-wobble" with my window, I noticed a
small yellow switch laying down inside the door, it was my priority unlock
switch. Apparently the switch had gotten old and busted off, and the connector
thingy that rotates inside the switch, was just making connections randomly.
Pull the connector rotator thingy (sorry to be so technical), and problem
solved! So I guess add that to the list of things to check when your locks click
like mad. Thanks for all those that helped, even if I WAS going down the wrong
path...
-b
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 07:53:13 -0700
From: "MM2 Phillips, J" <
phillipsj@duluth.navy.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: ERG Block Off Plates
these might be MOTO questions, but what do ERG Block off plates do? where
do they go? and are they worth the money and trouble of the install?
thanx -ryan-
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 15:04:20 -0000
From: Kopsick Michael J Contr
WRALC/LJET <
Michael.Kopsick@robins.af.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Passenger Windows Popping
Hey guys when I put the passenger window up in my 94 SL the window makes a
couple popping noises as it goes up. Mainly about halfway, then it pops
and keeps going up only to make two more pops before it gets all the way up.
Help!
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 11:08:05 -0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: Looking for a normal 3S windshield
The idiots from the glass shop called Mopar the very first time. Then I
told them to call Mitsubishi. They did, but with the car out of production they
could not find an OEM windshield. Mitsubishi does not make its own glass. Once
the car is out of production they arrange for either the original supplier or
other approved suppliers to support cars that need replacement windshields. Who
knows who their recommended supplier is now... How would I find out? I will go
complain to my insurance company if the next windshield is still distorting the
view.
Philip
- ------------------------------------------------------
Phillip,
I would request an OEM windshield. When my wife had her windshield
replaced on her Toyota Solara, they used a non-OEM windshield and the distortion
was there at the A pillars. We promptly had them put in an OEM windshield
and no distortion.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 04 Jun 2003 15:57:54 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Pressure loss in fuel line from tank to filter
> >> Firstly, ever flow tested the factory filter?
> Nope.
Have you? Has anybody?
SteveTek measured a DSM fuel filter (which is practically the same thing, I
don't know offhand if part numbers are different or not) at 2 lpm. I
doubt the
flow on the 3S version is a whole lot better, judging by their use
of the same
restrictive hardware (banjo bolt, rail connection, etc).
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 09:53:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Anthony Tse <
tse1631@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Upgrade
Hi: I have a 92 VR4 looking for a econ.way to upgrade
my car. I am not
rich as some of the list members. So
I am looking for some basic mods. I
already got the
K&N FIPK. I have a few questions.
1. Does a
boost controller going to help if I am
running stock 9B turbos. I've notice
some list members
post that stock 9b's only hold up to 9 PSI to
red
line.
2. How do I install a pillar mount gauge ? Where
does
the lines go over the dash ? I have seen many people
have some pretty
jobs done, no wire exposed.
3. For downpipe, which one is the best? I
know some
of them don't have the flex section which are not that
good.
Some are make of plain steel & as heavy
as
stock.
Any comments
welcome.
Anthony
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 12:04:52 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ERG Block Off Plates
They harm emissions, add 0Hp or torque, and increase combustion chamber
temps.
On Wed, 4 Jun 2003, MM2 Phillips, J wrote:
> these might be MOTO questions, but what do ERG Block off plates do?
> where do they go? and are they worth the money and trouble of the
> install?
>
> thanx -ryan-
- ---
Now offering replacement
Toyota/Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Porsche/SAAB/Volvo parts Where do you buy YOUR brakes
from?
orders@speedtoys.com Maybe
I can help..asking is free. :) "If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 13:11:33 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@spamcop.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Upgrade
Anthony,
A friend of mine might be able to make a manual boost
controller for around $50 if you are interested. You can also research and
build your own from aquarium valves and make it less than $8 or so. This
helps since it maintains the boost better than the stock setup. I noticed
an immediate increase in boost and response (stock turbos can take more than 9
psi - that is just the stock setting on some cars).
As far as
pillar gauges - follow the instructions included. Mine are still temporary
so they are just adhered with Velcro instead of screws. Look below for the link
to two of them (boost gauge and water temp gauge). I have at least one more to
put on the A-pillar so I went ahead and ran three sets of power, ground, and
lighting (dimmer switch) wires even though I only have two gauges at the present
time.
To really temporarily mount A-pillar gauge pods just take
one and push it into the gap between the A-pillar and the dash. It will
stay there quite well for quite some time and is removable quite easily.
Let me know if you have any questions installing this stuff.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Anthony Tse
Sent: Wednesday, June
04, 2003 12:53
1. Does a boost controller going to help if I am
running stock 9B
turbos. I've notice some list members
post that stock 9b's only hold up to 9
PSI to red
line.
2. How do I install a pillar mount gauge ? Where
does
the lines go over the dash ? I have seen many people
have some pretty
jobs done, no wire exposed.
<snip>
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 10:14:45 -0700
From: "Haury, Charles" <
CHaury@GOLDER.com>
Subject: Team3S:
1992 VR4 Transfer case Problem
I am experiencing what I believe to be seizure of the transfer or the
differential. The engine appears to run fine and I have no noticeable
problem until the car has run a mile or two. At that point, I notice a
clunk and the car "bucks". This symptom gets worse the more the car is
driven. It feels like the car is dragging from the rear end. When
the "bucking" occurs, there is no change in engine RPM, so I believe that it is
not engine oriented. I have had no oil leaks from the transfer or
differential. One note is that I had a 60K done by the dealer in late
January and the car has been driven less than 500 miles since. The car had
run fine until recently. As part of the 60K, I had requested that the
fluid be drained and replaced in the transmission, transfer case and
differential. I also requested that the recall for the transfer case be
performed. The dealer noted that all was well with the transfer
case. Is it possible that the dealer drained, but did not replace fluid in
the transfer and/or differential? Could the transfer or differential
operate on small amounts of oil for a few hundred miles?
Thanks for any input. I do plan on checking the fluids at the local
mechanic down the street so that I can get the car on a lift.
Charlie Haury
1992 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 11:17:10 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: ERG Block Off Plates
> They harm emissions, add 0Hp or torque, and increase
>
combustion chamber temps.
And they keep the sooty, oily mess from your exhaust from gunking up your
plenum and intake valves.
And they lower your intake temps and keep your plenum cooler.
And they make removing and reattaching your plenum a billion times easier
for many people.
And, in theory, they may allow you to run colder plugs and not foul
them.
That said I'm still undecided since my water injection seems to keep my
intake tract pretty clean and I've so far had good luck aligning the EGR pipe
with the plenum when reattaching it.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 17:44:24 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Clutch Push Rod Adjustment?
I'm doing the master cylinder replacement, and in the manual it calls for
the push rod to be measured (under hood, not inside cabin!) which is nearly
impossible but also to adjust it! I'm just wondering if anyone has ever
done this and has any clue what they're getting at. I managed to pull this
rod right out of the booster, did I hurt anything? It doesn't look like
it, but ya never know.
Thanks!
Ken Stanton
91 Pearl White Stealth R/T TT
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#172
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