Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, June 3
2003 Volume 02 : Number 171
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 13:02:29 -0400
From: "Shannon Andrew Rowe" <
shannonroweis@rogers.com>
Subject:
Team3S: FW: Fuel cut??
Anyone??? I am desperate. I don't want to have to bring it the
stealer but I have no alternative...it's sitting in some parking lot right now
and I don't exactly have spare money right now. I'd love to try anything I
can.
Thanks,
Shannon
- -----Original Message-----
From: Shannon Andrew Rowe
[mailto:shannonroweis@rogers.com]
Sent: May 31, 2003 5:48 PM
My Stealth TT started fine this morning but after about 3 minutes of drive
time, started not to respond to the throttle. The car was still powered
but refused to take gas. It would then wait until the RPM's were just
about to die and then kick back in again, all the while keeping the pedal to the
floor. It would allow me to open the throttle to 6,000 RPM but after
climbing would then die again. On every occasion it will start fine and
can move through the RPM's quite fine once, then drops to almost stall. If
I keep the accelerator to the floor before it dies, it will then kick up one
last time to die for good, until restart....and then continues this
pattern.
Does anyone have any ideas?? About 4 months ago I replaced the
idler
control motor because of a somewhat similar problem and it appeared to
solve it. This is similar but not identical because of what appears to be,
fuel cut. The weather has been particularly damp lately and wondered if
that is playing a role? As you can see I'm out of thoughts, any help would
be greatly appreciated,
P.S. thanks for everyone's advice on tires, I purchased the Yokohama ES100
and find them to be an excellent tire, a little louder than the previous
Goodyears but very economical tire with great performance. Thanks
again!
Thanks in advance,
Shannon Rowe
92 Dodge Stealth RT/TT
K&N FIPK
1970 Dodge
Charger RT 440
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 13:15:31 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: FW: Fuel cut??
Shannon, check you Y pipe connection to the Throttle body (you have the
stock Y pipe still on the car?) also while you are there check to see if you
idle speed set screw has come out of the throttle body. Check your wiring
Harness to the MAS to see if it has come loose.
Do you have anyone that can go with you to listen for vacuum leaks while
you try to keep the car running?
Russ F
CT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Shannon Andrew Rowe
[mailto:shannonroweis@rogers.com]
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2003 1:02 PM
Anyone??? I am desperate. I don't want to have to bring it the
stealer but I have no alternative...it's sitting in some parking lot right now
and I don't exactly have spare money right now. I'd love to try anything I
can.
Thanks,
Shannon
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 10:17:06 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: VR-4 Decal
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob G" <
Rguirlinger@cfl.rr.com>
> Hey
Guys,
> When I bought my 92 VR-4 a couple of months ago, the "3000GT
VR-4"
> decal had been removed from the rear bumper. I have all of
the
> pieces, but that's what they are, pieces.
>
> Could one
of you folks with a 1st gen VR-4 take a picture of the decal
> on the back
of your car and email it to me so that I can determine
> the correct
positioning and spacing for mine?
>
> Thanks!
> Bob
Guirlinger
>
Rguirlinger@cfl.rr.com-
------------------------------->
As luck would have it, ET & I were out and about yesterday..., both of
us practicing the hundreds of S-turns on Rte 1 (PCH) - me in the VR-4, and ET in
the Spec Miata. I happened to take a shot of the back of my '91 VR-4 when
we were in Bodega Bay (at 'The Tides' restaurant, where they filmed Hitchcock's
"The Birds", for those of you old enough to remember...). Here's the back
shot of the car:
www.Team3S.com/Images/P6010005b.JPG
(211Kb)
Best,
Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 13:18:37 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rear bumper paint / decals
The "SL" is part number MR109959
There are 2 styles of the "Mitsubishi" decal. On one, the Mitsu
symbol precedes the word "Mitsubishi." It's Part No. MB952388. The
other is just the word. It's part no. MR793206.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Tyson Varosyan
[mailto:tigran@tigran.com]
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2003 12:34 PM
I recently purchased a 94 3000GT SL (second generation).
It appears
that the rear end (or entire car) has been repainted.
From the rear, the
only decal is the "3000GT" in the middle of the tail
lights. From pictures
I've seen online, it is suppose to have a
"Mitsubishi" decal on the drivers side
under the tail light.
Also, it should have a "SL" decal on the
passenger side under the tail
light. Are these decals available from
dealerships?
Do they have a p/n? Also, I notice that below the bumper
(between the
exhaust tips) mine is all painted whereas others I've seen have
blackouts in
the molded contour. Can anyone tell me if this is
actually painted or
is this a sticker that fills in the molded
contour? If thinks is a
sticker/graphic that can be
purchased, may be able to install myself to restore the look back to
factory.
Thanks!!
David Phillips
94 3000GT SL
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 13:26:58 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: FW: Fuel cut??
Here are a few thoughts:
1. Check the Y-Pipe for leaks (primarily at the throttle
body);
if none, check the
rest of the intake hoses for leaks
2. Make sure your cats aren't
clogged
3. Check the Throttle Position Sensor
4.
Check fuel pressure regulator
5. Check fuel pump
relay
6. Check throttle body for excessive carbon build-up
(especially
on the plenum
side of the throttle body)
7. Check the throttle plate to make
sure it isn't bent or warped
That's about all I can think of right now.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Shannon Andrew Rowe
[mailto:shannonroweis@rogers.com]
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2003 1:02 PM
Anyone??? I am desperate. I don't want to have to bring it the
stealer but I have no alternative...it's sitting in some parking lot right now
and I don't exactly have spare money right now. I'd love to try anything I
can.
Thanks,
Shannon
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 13:31:15 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: FW: Fuel cut??
Following up on Russ's good ideas, use starting fluid to check for vacuum
leaks. If you can keep the car running with on hand on the throttle
linkage, spray starting fluid IN SPURTS around the vacuum hoses and intake
plenum. If the engine surges, you have discovered a vacuum leak.
Putting one of those little red tubes on the can of fluid can help you isolate
the vacuum leak. But make sure you just spray in spurts because if you
fill the under hood with starting fluid, it will just get sucked into the air
intake and will defeat the purpose of the test (assuming you have a K&N or
similar setup).
- -----Original Message-----
From: Furman, Russell
[mailto:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2003 1:16 PM
Shannon, check you Y pipe connection to the Throttle body (you have the
stock Y pipe still on the car?) also while you are there check to see if you
idle speed set screw has come out of the throttle body. Check your wiring
Harness to the MAS to see if it has come loose.
Do you have anyone that can go with you to listen for vacuum leaks while
you try to keep the car running?
Russ F
CT
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2003 17:54:26 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: FW: Fuel cut??
> use starting fluid to check for vacuum leaks.
Be very careful with this... Starting fluid is highly flammable, and
you
certainly don't want to be breathing it in.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 14:00:22 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: FW: Fuel cut??
If there is black smoke like that you have a major vacuum/boost leak, I
would definitely reinstall the y-pipe at the throttle body and tighten that
connection. The Idle screw is located on the top front (when looking in
the engine bay of the car) of the TB about 1 inch to the right of the y-pipe.
The port the screw sits in has threads (if you can see the threads you have
found your culprit) a little plastic yellow screw, and then a little black
rubber plug that covers the port and prevents dirt and debris from getting
caught in the port.
Hope this helps and if you were local I would have an excuse to boogie out
of work early today ;) 75 and sunny the whole weekend it rained :/
Russ F
CT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Shannon Andrew Rowe
[mailto:shannonroweis@rogers.com]
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2003 1:28 PM
Thanks Russ,
Yeah, I have the stock Y pipe and did check it, it appears fine. I'll
check the screw and tomorrow I can have someone listen for leaks. Is the
throttle body screw easy to identify. Yesterday when I went to check the Y pipe
I also noticed when I started it up that there was a heck of a lot of black
smoke when I gave it gas.
Thanks again,
Shannon
------------------------------
WD40 or hairspray works just as good, but without the explosions.
> > use starting fluid to check for vacuum leaks.
>
> Be
very careful with this... Starting fluid is highly flammable, and
>
you certainly don't want to be breathing it in.
>
> -Matt
>
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
- ---
Now offering replacement
Toyota/Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Porsche/SAAB/Volvo parts Where do you buy YOUR brakes
from?
orders@speedtoys.com Maybe
I can help..asking is free. :) "If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 14:27:59 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: FW: Fuel cut??
These are all good ideas. I usually use ether because it leaves no
residue behind. Anyway, if you decide to use ether (starting fluid), make
sure you use it OUTSIDE! Not in the garage, not in the shed, not in any
enclosed space. You will use it OUTSIDE! That way, you reduce the
chance of concentration.
I've used ether for years and never had a problem. You just have to
use it correctly. Small spurts....don't soak things down with it.
And, of course, DON'T SMOKE! It is very highly flammable, otherwise they
wouldn't call it starting fluid! ;)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2003 1:59 PM
WD40 or hairspray works just as good, but without the explosions.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 13:20:28 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Breaking-In Brakes (was: Track Brakes ?s)
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
jawieman@rockwellcollins.com>
>
Everyone, ---------snip--------->
> I am hesitant to try the
"Geoff Method" on the street as l recently
> got a ticket and had to go to
traffic court. Now I keep the
> excessive driving to the track
(mostly).
>
> Just to clarify the R4 pads do NOT need a break
in?
>
> Jon
- --------------------------->
Do they need break-in? Porterfield says "no"; Geoff says "no".
But I say "yes". And more importantly, Andie Lin says "yes", too (he's
another Team3S racer, formerly with Carbotech, now with his own racing brakes
mfg company,
www.cobaltfriction.com). You can
save on wear by "breaking in" the brakes with the "BBQ brake pad mod" method,
detailed on our website (See the 'Wheels, Brakes, Tires' section in the FAQ
Index Page,
www.Team3S.com/FAQ.htm
for the link). When I BBQ the pads first, they are responsive right
away. When I don't BBQ, I must use the above "80-40 panic stop" method to
"prime" the pads by outgassing them. Although I must admit that pads have
gotten much better and require much less break-in than even just a few years
ago, they *still* require it, unless you BBQ. Read the BBQ page,
especially Andie's detailed comments about the science behind it... His
words:
- ---"...Based on what I have done and seen, you will notice an improvement
in wear, as well as a shortened bedding in time if you bake your pads...
But it must be done gradually..."
- ---"...In the case of certain compounds, heat-treating will also improve
the stopping power (i.e. braking torque), lower the dust level (i.e. due to
slower wear), and reduce noise..."
Andie's words are good enough for me - whenever possible, I BBQ the pads
slowly at high heat, then cool them down overnight. When I don't BBQ, I
notice a marked difference, especially as regards stopping power and wear.
I read here of many people complaining that the pads make lots of noise on the
street when they are cold - in my experience, that's NOT true when you barbeque
the pads first.
This is not only true for racing brake pads - it's true for ALL brake pads.
On one race weekend I didn't order R4's from Geoff in time (I wasn't planning on
running) and I got stuck using some cheapo Bendix truck brake pads from my local
grease monkey. I was amazed at how effective they were - not R4/R4-S
quality, but surprisingly good, even after they got hot from track use.
Follow the instructions on our "Brake BBQ" page - you won't be
disappointed.
Best,
- ---Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 14:28:14 -0700 (PDT)
From:
chfmn@webtv.net (Walter Womack)
Subject:
Team3S: 7500rpm stall
When I rev to 7500 the engine stalls.Is this a safety measure or a fault?
Do I want to defeat it or leave it alone?
92 RTTT Pearl White
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 17:31:07 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 7500rpm stall
This is your revlimiter and it is there so you don't overrev you engine and
break it, LEAVE IT ALONE!!!!
My question is are you revving it like this in neutral or winding out a
gear (like 2nd) and hitting this limiter?????
- -----Original Message-----
From:
chfmn@webtv.net
[mailto:chfmn@webtv.net]
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2003 5:28 PM
When I rev to 7500 the engine stalls.Is this a safety measure or a fault?
Do I want to defeat it or leave it alone?
92 RTTT Pearl White
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 17:35:42 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 7500rpm stall
Leave it alone. It's fuel cut to prevent the engine from
overreving.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 14:41:01 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
7500rpm stall
You don't have much choice anyway --- it's an ECU function.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 15:38:21 -0700 (PDT)
From:
chfmn@webtv.net (Walter Womack)
Subject:
Team3S: 7500rpm stall
Thanks for the info guys.Just wasn't sure why the tach goes higher than
that if it is unattainable.I am not going to mess with it.As I understand it the
ECU would not allow it anyway.Was just curious.Have owned many vehicles.MOPAR
muscles to 5 cyl Audis.Have had them all to redline,just never had one stall out
before.They just usually hold the rev and won't go any higher.Thanks again.Don't
want to harm my pride and joy.
92 RTTT Pearl White
------------------------------
That's on purpose.
Any reason you don't like your motor as an internal combustion
design?
On Mon, 2 Jun 2003, Walter Womack wrote:
> When I rev to 7500 the engine stalls.Is this a safety measure or
a
> fault? Do I want to defeat it or leave it alone?
>
> 92
RTTT Pearl White
- ---
Now offering replacement
Toyota/Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Porsche/SAAB/Volvo parts Where do you buy YOUR brakes
from?
orders@speedtoys.com Maybe
I can help..asking is free. :) "If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 18:30:36 -0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
brian.geisel@hp.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 7500rpm stall
Um, yeah - guys... Maybe the ECU was a little different in 92, but as far
as I can tell, it should not stall, it should just start fuel cutting and make
that bwap-ap-ap-ap-ap-ap-ap sound Honda's usually
make at the dragstrip
between gears ;)
As for why all those numbers are there, I can tell ya that. I was
racing a TransAM one day. At 72mph I shifted from 2nd to 1st. It bounced
off of the needle past 9, then stalled. That is why they put all those
numbers there, so you'll know when you're in really big trouble.
geis
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 20:57:49 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
7500rpm stall...some ideas...
I autocross almost every week. On slow courses, there's no point in
shifting out of first gear since my 5-speed's gear ratios are very wide.
My rev limiter kicks in at 7300rpm. The S-AFC logs maximum rpm for each
run, so I know this for sure. My car has never stalled as a result of the
rev limiter. If I understand correctly, the ECU starts cutting spark to as
many cylinders as necessary to stop the engine from revving higher. This
is why my car gets a big black cloud of smoke (unburned gas) when I hit the rev
limiter. If your car is stalling at 7500, then something strange must be
going on. Perhaps the selective cylinder spark cut failed and the ECU is
using a failsafe measure such as full coil power cut to stop your engine from
overrevving.
From here, you have a few choices:
1) If you autocross, or ever plan on it, you will want to get this fixed.
You can probably fix it by getting a new ECU. But that's a waste of money.
Here's what I'd do: Get MSD DIS-4 (street legal AFAIK) or DIS-4HO (not street
legal) Ignition Controller with the soft rev control which will allow you to
create another rev limit at 7000 or 7250. That way, the MSD system will
limit your rev before you reach the actual limiter. This will further
safeguard your engine, and it should not stall in this case.
2) If you don't autocross, or have another reason not to care, then just
don't worry about it! Watch the tach (buy a shift light if you need) and
shift before hitting 7500. Regardless, you may want to pull out your ECU
and just make sure the notorious capacitors aren't leaking though...
FYI, mods which I have that *may* be relevant here:
Apex'i S-AFC
DSM 450cc injectors
FP resistor bypass + hotwire
P.S. be sure you change your oil frequently if you rev high. I
change the oil with Mobil 1 synthetic 15W-50 every 2000 miles, and I change the
Mobil 1 filter every 4000 miles. I am probably overcompensating, but
that's just how I am.
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 23:48:50 -0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 7500rpm stall...some ideas...
Does the ecu cut spark or fuel? Cus if it cuts spark when you bounce off
your revlimiter with a fully open exhaust do you shoot flames out the back? My
friend's talon does that because he has the DSM link which does cut spark, so
all that un burnt fuel hits the hot exhaust and whoosh, maybe a 2 foot flame
shoots out the back, it's pretty cool except that it scares people away. Donald
Ashby '93 3000GT VR-4 (RIP) "Don't drink and park, accidents cause
people!"
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Sent: Monday, June
02, 2003 9:57 PM
I autocross almost every week. On slow courses, there's no point in
shifting out of first gear since my 5-speed's gear ratios are very wide.
My rev limiter kicks in at 7300rpm. The S-AFC logs maximum rpm for each
run, so I know this for sure. My car has never stalled as a result of the
rev limiter. If I understand correctly, the ECU starts cutting spark to as
many cylinders as necessary to stop the engine from revving higher. This
is why my car gets a big black cloud of smoke (unburned gas) when I hit the rev
limiter. If your car is stalling at 7500, then something strange must be
going on. Perhaps the selective cylinder spark cut failed and the ECU is
using a failsafe measure such as full coil power cut to stop your engine from
overrevving.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 00:56:13 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
7500rpm stall...some ideas...
Donald-
The archives would lead me to believe that the ECU cuts fuel since there
are so many threads on "fuel cut", but my exhaust leads me to think spark.
Why else would I get black smoke from my exhaust? And plus, why cut fuel?
Isn't running lean bad for the engine? Sure, running rich by cutting spark
is no good either since the unburned gas will wash some of the necessary
lubricating oil off the cylinder walls... but this is not much of an issue since
on the other hand running lean = detonation = spun bearings over time...
=(
To answer your question RE: flames (which is probably O.T.), flames could
shoot out your exhaust, but I don't think it's as likely in our cars as in your
friend's DSM. We have a pretty long exhaust first of all, so you're more
likely to hear gurgling and popping sounds and just see black smoke like the
spectators of my car do. The flames are probably contained inside the
exhaust. However, my car isn't the best example since I still have one
precat left (rear turbo). If you're particularly interested in getting
flames out your exhaust though, then e-mail me privately since I feel that it's
OT...
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 13:15:38 -0000
From: Kopsick Michael J Contr
WRALC/LJET <
Michael.Kopsick@robins.af.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Gathering in Southeast?
Does anyone know if there is a gathering in the GA, FLA areas? I have
a 94 SL plus a 89 TSi that I show and was wanting to find a 3K
gathering....
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 14:06:44 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Team3S:
Part number lookup, please?
Hey guys, I need a part number looked up on CAPS... Its the center
console
ashtray. I've got CAPS at home, but not on my work machine -
and downloading
the whole big thing seems like a waste for this one
thing.
Thanks in advance!
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 09:11:35 -0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Part number lookup, please?
Is that the cup holder that sits under the armrest or the actual ashtray in
front of the armrest?
MB604667 is the cup holder under the armrest.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 14:42:04 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 7500rpm stall...some ideas...
Mitsubishi patterned the fuel-control and ignition operations of the
1991-1993 ECU's after the DSM versions. They say this in the STIM. I have seen
nothing to suggest that substantial changes were made in this respect for 1994+
ECUs.
Somewhere around 7300-7500 RPM the ECU cuts fuel as over-rev protection. It
also cuts fuel as over-boost protection, and as an emissions measure during
deceleration. More details about fuel injection control and fuel cut are in my
web page below.
There is absolutely no danger of the cylinders "running lean" during fuel
cut because there is no fuel to combustion, that is, there is no combustion and
so no "running". Fuel delivery is restored when RPM drop. I have not seen
anywhere in the tech manuals that our ECU cuts ignition power or changes
ignition timing advance as a form of over-rev protection. Sparks in a
non-combustible mixture do no harm.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June
03, 2003 1:56 AM
Donald-
The archives would lead me to believe that the ECU cuts fuel since there
are so many threads on "fuel cut", but my exhaust leads me to think spark.
Why else would I get black smoke from my exhaust? And plus, why cut fuel?
Isn't running lean bad for the engine? Sure, running rich by cutting spark
is no good either since the unburned gas will wash some of the necessary
lubricating oil off the cylinder walls... but this is not much of an issue since
on the other hand running lean = detonation = spun bearings over time... =(
<snip>
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 07:54:54 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Part number lookup, please?
whadda pain --- ashtray is MB766459
Jim berry
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 10:59:34 -0400
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
7500rpm stall...some ideas...
I maybe wrong on this, but shouldn't the number one concern at those rpms
be the valves floating (especially with our interference design)?
Alex
'95 VR4
<snip>
There is absolutely no danger of the cylinders "running lean" during fuel
cut because there is no fuel to combustion, that is, there is no combustion and
so no "running". Fuel delivery is restored when RPM drop. I have not seen
anywhere in the tech manuals that our ECU cuts ignition power or changes
ignition timing advance as a form of over-rev protection. Sparks in a
non-combustible mixture do no harm.
<snip>
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2003 11:04:46 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 7500rpm stall...some ideas...
Valve float on a stock heads and cams motor should not occur even when
pushed over 8K, however changing to a reground cam with higher lift on stock
valve springs and retainers IS a concern....
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 15:07:41 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: 7500rpm stall...some ideas...
> I maybe wrong on this, but shouldn't the
> number one concern at
those rpms be the
> valves floating (especially with our
>
interference design)?
The Dynamic Racing guys say that the stock valve springs are good to over
8000
RPM on stock cams.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 15:47:05 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Pressure loss in fuel line from tank to filter
I recently upgraded the fuel lines in my engine bay. Mostly because I
needed an aftermarket FPR to handle my direct-wired (all the time) Supra fuel
pump flow. Here are the web pages.
I wondered what effect installing larger lines between the fuel pump and
engine bay might have, even though most of the fastest of our cars have not done
this. Several web sites (like Holley's) recommend metal lines rather than rubber
lines because there is considerably more pressure loss in rubber lines. I didn't
find a calculator for loss in rubber hose, but using eFunda.com info I
guess maybe 10+ times more loss.
So how much pressure loss is in the stock metal line and how much could we
reduce that using larger metal lines?
Here are the assumptions:
- 14 ft length (probably a little long so
actual loss may be a little less)
- 70ºF temp (I have no idea what the
average temp might be so this seemed as good as any)
- gasoline fluid with
viscosity of 0.6 cP and specific gravity of 0.75 at 70ºF
- drawn metal tubing
(seemed closest among their choices)
Here are the results for our stock -5 AN metal supply line with an ID of
0.25 inch.
Maxed out 360's at 0.57 gpm --> 1.511 psi loss
Maxed out 550's at
0.86 gpm --> 3.1 psi loss
Running 720's at 1.0 gpm (~87% IDC) -->4.041
psi loss
Here are the results for 1 gpm flow (227 lph) under same conditions as
above:
- -6 AN hard line (0.3125" ID)-->1.394 psi
- -8 AN hard line (0.4375"
ID) -->0.282 psi
- -10 AN hard line (0.5625" ID) -->0.086 psi
It looks like it would definitely be worth upgrading the supply line to -6
or -8 AN if maxxing out 720 injectors. -10 is probably overkill unless rubber
lines are used. If what Holley says is true about rubber hose, we should stick
with metal tube if the upgrade line is -6 or -8.
------------------------------
Will a 1998 Bumper, Absorber and Reinforcement fit on a 1995 3G
without
any major problems?
Thanks,
Russ
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#171
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