Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, June 2
2003 Volume 02 : Number 170
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Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 12:26:28 -0400
From: Marc Jaffe <
marc@marcjaffe.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Sorry about the html post!
I know...I know....My bad...Sorry about the previous post in the wrong
format.... Marc
Here it is clean
Fogged headlights
Howdy...I just got brand new headlights on my 95 VR4 as part of my new
front end...the high beams are already fogged up after 2 days. I thought they
were sealed...what¹s up with that?...any ideas...are they defective?
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 17:05:46 -0600
From: "Zach Sauerman" <
axemaddock@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: clutch pedal pressure
Gentlemen,
I have gained some insight into our clutches with the recent
replacement of
mine.
When I picked up the car from the shop, the pedal still felt light, none of
the heavy resistance I had learned to love. I wondered what was wrong,
because the clutch was working fine. I did the tests as stated in the
service manual and mine met all of them. It just felt like I was stepping in
a bowl of spaghetti every time I shifted. I did notice that when the car was
off, I could pump the pedal and resistance would build back up. I figured
that I needed to bleed the system.
When my buddy showed up to help me, he was surprised to find that we have
vacuum assisted clutches. He thought that I should investigate the vacuum
assist. I figured, why not? We disconnected the vacuum line from the
reservoir
and he held his thumb over the line while I started the car. Sure
enough,
when the car started, the pedal felt like it had for the past 25,000
miles!
The way I had felt in all the 3S cars I have ever driven. And to
think about
it, the pedal had always felt the same whether the car was
running or not.
So something in the vacuum system had also been repaired in
the shop. What I have learned is that our pedals weren't intended to feel so
heavy.
With the vacuum working, the pedal moves with the ease you find in a Honda.
I am trying to learn to like it because I cannot feel what's going on like I
used to in the pedal. I feel like a lesser man, to tell you the truth,
without having to work to shift!
I miss the heavy feel, and am wondering if I might damage the system if I
disconnect the vacuum and plug the open ends. It may have been working
before, or maybe not, but I don't want to damage anything. Does anybody have
ideas about this? I would sure appreciate any info.
Respectfully,
Zach Sauerman
'94 Pearl Yellow TT
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Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 16:59:28 -0700 (PDT)
From:
chfmn@webtv.net (Walter Womack)
Subject:
Team3S: Factory boost gauge
Howdy all; just wanted to make sure that I properly understood a previous
thread concerning stock boost gauges. Mine goes to 14psi.Am I to assume that
when the gauge reads 14psi,that I am not realizing 14psi? or is it a "maybe yes,
maybe no" situation, or is it a "no way" thing. Aside from buying an aftermarket
gauge, can a regular fix-it shop test and tell me?
If I am not realizing 14psi I understand to install a boost controller and
gauge. If this is necessary, how much boost can I safely dial in on a well taken
care of 100k engine." Theoretically of course".
92 RTTT Pearl White
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Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 17:32:21 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Factory boost gauge
The answer is --- not likely --- the stock gauge is calculated by the ECU
and is notoriously inaccurate. However --- if you have a boost control line
disconnected you could be exceeding the stock, and for that matter, safe limits.
If the boost is higher than it should be you will get 'fuel cut' when you push
your car to the limit. Fuel cut is a last ditch safety feature that stops
fuel flow to the engine if certain parameters are met.
The accepted boost level for a stock configuration is 15 psi. With a 92TT
you can buy a data logger and monitor knock, and other parameters, to
assure
a safer upgrade.
Jim
berry
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Womack" <
chfmn@webtv.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 01,
2003 4:59 PM
> Howdy all; just wanted to make sure that I properly understood
a
> previous thread concerning stock boost gauges. Mine goes to 14psi.Am I
> to assume that when the gauge reads 14psi,that I am not realizing
> 14psi? or is it a "maybe yes, maybe no" situation, or is it a "no way"
> thing. Aside from buying an aftermarket gauge, can a regular fix-it
shop
> test and tell me?
>
> If I am not realizing 14psi I
understand to install a boost controller
> and gauge. If this is
necessary, how much boost can I safely dial in on
> a well taken care of
100k engine." Theoretically of course".
>
> 92 RTTT Pearl
White
------------------------------
At 07:05 PM 6/1/2003, Zach Sauerman wrote:
>I feel like a lesser man,
to tell you the truth, without having to work
>to shift!
>I miss the
heavy feel, and am wondering if I might damage the system if I
>disconnect the vacuum and plug the open ends.
Haha!
Many people here wish they had your problems. :-)
It is also
quite unusual that a shop fixed something unexpected. Usually
they do not
fix what they are expected to fix and break something
unexpectedly. Good
shop you have there.
Upgrade to some higher torque clutch and you will feel like a man again! Or
if you feel like working harder makes you more of a man then disconnect
those vacuum lines. It is safe. Just plug up the lines that go to the
intake manifold, or else you will have intake manifold leaks.
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 22:26:00 -0400
From: "Steven Chen" <
fourchens@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Factory alarm system problem
To: Carole Mohror
From: Steve Chen
Date: 6/1/03
The service manual (electrical) does not specify how to disable the theft
alarm system. It does show several circuit diagrams, the locations of
several relays and switches that can be disconnected (i.e. disable the
anti-theft alarm system) and a trouble shooting guide. If you tell me the
year of your car, I can fax the diagrams to you.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Carole Mohror" <
J_cmo@surfbest.net>
Sent: Friday, May
30, 2003 11:34 PM
> Steven,
> Does your manual have any instructions to actually
disalarm the alarm?
> I would like it if I could do it myself, and not
have to pay the
> dealer to do it!
> thanks,
> Carole
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Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 00:20:57 -0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Changing tail lights
But back on topic, does anyone actually have information on doing body work
like that? I would love different tail lights on my 3000, I think the tail
lights couldn't look stupider, with only those little wings lighting up... I
would think it wouldn't be more complicated then some wiring work and nothing a
sawzall and some body filler couldn't change? Donald Ashby '93 3000GT VR-4 (RIP)
"Don't drink and park, accidents cause people!"
------------------------------
Hey Guys,
When I bought my 92 VR-4 a couple of months ago, the "3000GT VR-4" decal
had been removed from the rear bumper. I have all of the pieces, but
that's what they are, pieces.
Could one of you folks with a 1st gen VR-4 take a picture of the decal on
the back of your car and email it to me so that I can determine the correct
positioning and spacing for mine?
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Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 08:46:41 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
might be miss firing? or vacuum seal
Kev-
What happened with your timing marks? Are they off? If there's
anything you can do to avoid it, don't rush the stealth job in order to drive it
somewhere. If you end up putting something back together
incorrectly--especially when it comes to timing components--the results will be
absolutely catastrophic. I have worked on many cars, and I still haven't
found a car this is as "picky" as the stealth/3000gt. I'd almost go as far
as to say... use a rental car or public transportation to see your folks.
I could give you a list of things that can go wrong in the timing belt
replacement, but hopefully it will suffice to say that I am anything but a
careless person, and I still got close to ruining my engine _twice_ over
timing-belt related issues.
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
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Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 11:02:42 -0500
From: "David Phillips" <
dphillips@heeren.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Rear bumper paint / decals
I recently purchased a 94 3000GT SL (second generation).
It appears that
the rear end (or entire car) has been repainted.
From the rear, the only
decal is the "3000GT" in the middle of the tail
lights. From pictures I've
seen online, it is suppose to have a
"Mitsubishi" decal on the drivers side
under the tail light.
Also, it should have a "SL" decal on the passenger
side under the tail
light. Are these decals available from dealerships?
Do they
have a p/n? Also, I notice that below the bumper (between
the
exhaust tips) mine is all painted whereas others I've seen have blackouts
in
the molded contour. Can anyone tell me if this is actually
painted or is
this a sticker that fills in the molded contour? If
thinks is a
sticker/graphic that can be purchased, may be able to
install myself to restore the look back to factory.
Thanks!!
David Phillips
94 3000GT SL
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Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2003 09:33:38 -0700
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rear bumper paint / decals
Hi David.
Do your research on the lettering, I think you are right its supposed to
have all that. I know that the lettering is sold separately and does have part
numbers. Not sure what they are, look it up in CAPS. I can help out on the black
part. Note the picture
http://www.nws3.com/Members/img/tyson.jpg
The picture shows a body shop special. The lazy SOB's do not want to buy
and mix a whole new bucket of paint, mask, tape, cut and do all the work needed
to get it to look like stock. They pull the quick "are you sure it was black?"
crap all the time. That's how I got shafted. Yes, stock is black back there like
you have seen. No, its not a sticker or an insert; its paint. Yes, you are hosed
for getting it to look stock. Any semi-decent shop would charge at least $500 to
fix that for you. If you do have a friend or contact to do it for you, it would
cost about $20-40 in paint and is not all that hard.
Tyson
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#170
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