Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, May 30
2003 Volume 02 : Number 167
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Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 11:34:53 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: SBC-ID English manual
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Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 10:41:46 -0400
From:
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.comSubject:
Team3S: Camshaft Timing Advanced...Better Performance?
Last week, I posted that my crankshaft had jumped time and was actually
advanced two teeth, or one tooth advanced on each camshaft. After
receiving feedback from several of you, it seemed apparent that the reason this
happened was due to my manually rotating the crank backwards at some point
during a clutch installation that I had performed a few days earlier. And
following the advice I received, I went ahead and replaced the belt and
tensioner this past weekend.
But the strange thing is this. During those few days when I drove the car
with the camshaft timing advanced, the car's performance seemed better than it
does with the timing now correctly set. There was seemingly better throttle
response, more low-end power, cooler EGT's, smoother idle, and relatively lower
knock. I'm almost tempted to tear back into it again, and purposely advance the
timing one to two teeth on the crank.
What are your thoughts on this?
Jeff W.
'92VR4
------------------------------
Alex,
Check for vacuum tubing leaks. Temperature and humidity changes are more
likely to affect little rubber hoses than the DSBC.
Chuck Willis
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Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 13:35:21 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@spamcop.net>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Front exhaust manifold
FYI - the front turbo does not need to be completely removed in order to
remove the front exhaust manifold - just loosen up all the nuts and bolts and it
can be "persuaded" out of the way enough to remove the manifold. I'll take
pictures and make a write-up next week. I am replacing my 115k old
manifold with one from a 45k old car that M&S Recycling had (I think the
manifold was about $65).
I'm replacing it since the crack in my manifold goes about 300 degrees
around one of the collectors (the one from cylinder #1 where it meets up with
cylinder #3). Also, the crack runs along the underside of the collector
where it is just about impossible to get welding implements to it so I think
this is the best solution.
I removed the radiator since I can now switch from coolant to water (plus
water wetter) for the summer but that is the only thing that was removed (the
oil dipstick tube was also "persuaded" out of the way slightly). Thanks to all
who helped.
- --Flash!
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 12:47:56 -0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
brian.geisel@hp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Cracked Rim - replacements?
Sometimes I feel like my car is the anti-"Parker Lewis"
I've replaced the turbos, reman'd the tranny, et al...
Now a rim cracked. It's inside, so the rim is still
round, but it
leaks air on the inside. I'm guessing I
don't want to weld this,
right?
Anyone know a good source for used rims, or anyone got
one? '94
VR-4. 17" Chromies. Or maybe I'll just buy
some at Wal-mart for
$25.99ea.
geis <-- walking to Wal-mart? :-\
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Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 11:15:25 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Cracked Rim - replacements?
I still have a set laying around --- quality is from good to fair. I'm not
interested in breaking up the set yet --- asking $450 plus shipping. All have
some curb rash and the worst has some bubbles in the chrome.
A competent wheel shop should be able to repair the weld.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
That little crack can and should be welded. I was considering welding my
two-piece rim together. Flash would not have noticed a difference. But I guess I
should have kept it secret and not posted the pictures of that rim on the
internet then, hehe. :-)
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 13:30:55 -0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Roadcourse vs. Dragracing? Grow Up.
Hehehe!
I enjoy roadracing and dragracing both.
I'm not sure the
subjective term "abuse" is too useful. The subjective scale of that is
SSOOOOOO wide that for the regular driver in the world, roadracing is ABSOLUTELY
terrible abuse! Who is the Arbiter of Abuse?
Dragracing certainly ends up taxing the potential of VARIOUS components,
and can lead to parts wear and failure.
Roadracing certainly ends up taxing the potential of VARIOUS components,
and can lead to parts wear and failure.
HOW many pictures of BLOWN UP brake rotors, calipers with MELTED seals,
BOILED brake fluid, brake pads cracked/down to the metal backing plates,
OVERHEATING the _MOTOR_, "Off Track Excursions" leading to complete RIM
FAILURE/BREAKAGE, etc...oh yeah, that is all fine, but dragracers using up
clutches and such is terrible abuse. Please, no "Roadracing is Holier than Thou"
oracular pronouncements about how Dragracing is Abuse and Roadracing is
Not. Whoa!
How many transfer cases have broken/locked up on people who DON'T dragrace
alot? Alot. How many synchros have gone bad for people who DON'T dragrace
alot? ALOT.
Know why there are "endurance roadraces"? Because they KNOW parts are
going to be used SO HARD, SO MUCH that they will fail. What percentage of
cars going to your local dragrace end up BROKEN, on the trailers...vs what
percentage of cars at 24 Hours of LeMans, 24 Hours of Daytona, 12 Hours of
Sebring, or name your race end up BROKEN? WAAAAAAAAAAAYY more broken
cars...ROADRACING!!
But I won't gloat or make oracular pronouncements about how "ABUSIVE"
Roadracing is. That would be STUPID. Both use cars hard, one the engine
for 10-14 seconds at full power and uses more clutch slippage and taxes peak
driveline torque capacities but NEVER breaks rims, brake rotors, pads, overheats
engine; the other for 20 minutes to 24 HOURS, taxing really EVERYthing but not
as pointed in acceleration for the first 10-14 seconds as dragracing.
"Dyno Runs are the hardest on your engine"...
Dyno run = roadcourse
acceleration down ONE straightaway. Multiply by number of straights. Big
difference. Whatever.
I enjoy them both, and feel no need to piss on EITHER of them. JT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 13:33:36 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Roadcourse vs. Dragracing? Grow Up.
But like I said..remove the consumable parts from your list, and it becomes
clear why a warranty agency would just have a stroke if they knew you
dragraced.
- ---
Now offering replacement
Toyota/Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Porsche/SAAB/Volvo parts Where do you buy YOUR brakes
from?
orders@speedtoys.com Maybe
I can help..asking is free. :) "If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 12:37:31 -0600
From: Stephanie & David Walker
<
scba@centurytel.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Installing new alarm system
Does anyone know if there is a problem if one wants to install a new alarm
system in a 95 Spyder? Does the OEM alarm have to be removed or disconnected?
Will the procedure screw up the electrical system. I am planning to have an
alarm dealer put in a system with a proximity alarm which will protect the car
when the top is down.
------------------------------
I for one feel safer and my car takes way less abuse on the track then the
commute home up I-25 during rush hour :)
A friend of mine has broken so many parts on the track that when he gets
home his wife just asks "What did you break today"
Besides the sooner you break it the sooner you can upgrade it :)
Dan
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Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 14:21:34 -0400
From: Russ Williams <
3000gt@wildweaselweb.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Inside Front Bumper - 1st to 2nd Gen?
When a body kit was installed on my car before I purchased it, apparently
there is a support underneath the outside visible bumper that is suppose to
absorb impact if there is a head- on collision? My question is, would it be
possible for me to purchase one of these "Internal Bumpers" before I put the
stock front, or a different front on my car? Also, would it be possible to
use one from a 1st generation 3G found in a Salvage Yard? I have a
1995.
Thanks,
Russ
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Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 19:23:17 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Roadcourse vs. Dragracing? Grow Up.
> But like I said..remove the consumable parts
> from your list,
and it becomes clear why a
> warranty agency would just have a stroke
if
> they knew you dragraced.
I don't recall synchros and transfer cases being listed anywhere as
consumable
parts - or calipers for that matter.
Any type of racing is going to be harder on a car than just driving it on
the
street. If there's a timer running somewhere to measure your lap
times, you
aren't being easy on the car. If you are "going easy" then
why time the laps
at all?
I'd say that when I autocrossed my car it was "abused" at least as much as
dragracing, maybe more so. Certainly harder on synchros, suspension
components, axles, CV joints, etc. Road courses are scaled-up
autocrosses on a
much larger track with higher corner speeds.
I guess I don't see much difference in the abuse factor between me
accelerating
hard from 0-60 down an onramp, versus 0-120 at the dragstrip,
versus 20-160 at
Brainerd International Raceway between turns 10 and
1. I would use the same
exact shifting techniques in each case, and
the car seems to accelerate the
best with the throttle to the floor.
I guess I just don't see the big difference...
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
"Just driving it like the sportscar it
is..."
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Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 16:13:20 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Roadcourse vs. Dragracing? Grow Up.
> I don't recall synchros and transfer cases being listed anywhere
as
> consumable parts - or calipers for that matter.
-
---
Exactly.
> Any type of racing is going to be harder on a
car than just driving it
> on the street. If there's a timer running
somewhere to measure your
> lap times, you aren't being easy on the
car. If you are "going easy"
> then why time the laps at all?
-
---
Agreed, but Id have to say that road racing is the lest harmful to the
driveline than either drag or autox. Autox is still hard fast shifting,
drag is that PLUS ugly launching. Roadcourse is never hard fast shifting,
and except for the C5 vette, I don't see anyone pushing out bushings or anything
that would constitute worn out parts from it.
Now offering replacement Toyota/Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Porsche/SAAB/Volvo parts
Where do you buy YOUR brakes from?
orders@speedtoys.com Maybe I can
help..asking is free. :) "If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 19:20:43 -0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Stabilizer Bushings
Hey all -
My fiancée's car had destroyed both of the front sway bar stabilizers and
bushings, what's a decent replacement for them? Her car is a 92 Stealth
ES, she doesn't need high performance but I figure we could find something a bit
better than stock. Thanks!
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Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 18:45:42 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Stabilizer Bushings
You should be able to stuff some generic polys in there from ES, what size
are they?
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Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 17:05:16 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Inside Front Bumper - 1st to 2nd Gen?
check on the 3SI.org site --- a bunch of folks have added FMIC's and
usually remove the internal bumper.
Jim Berry
==============================================
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Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 20:14:24 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt D" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: might be miss firing? or vacuum seal
Make sure you check your battery condition and terminal connections. The
compression check should verify your internals are ok. Did the 'mechanic' check
for ECU codes?
Kurt
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Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 19:52:32 -0700
From: John Sheehan <
johns@kyso.com>
Subject: Team3S: Extended
Warranty / Dealers and after Market Parts
Who was it that just solved the long ordeal with a dealer an extended
warranty? A friend is having a similar problem with an Eclipse and a
Dealer.
I have directed him to the sate consumer affairs and told him to check the
detail on Carfax, etc.. If Mitsubishi is pushing on after market parts as part
of the problem, then what next from them!! He needs help and I know my legal
mind is 25 years out of date on this subject. John
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Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 23:11:49 -0500
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Quick part
number...
Ok, so I'm trying to fix my power doorlocks (some may remember my funky
"clicking" problem this winter). I was told that the lock relay was MB543648,
but I can only find MB543647. So which is the right one? Will the 647 work? Is
the 648 just a typo or what? Thanks.
-b
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Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 00:19:08 -0400
From: "Joseph Spainhour" <
spainhou@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Boost question.
Hello all,
I just installed a Blitz SBC-id v2 and while the car accelerates
very nicely, I cannot seem to get above 5.9psi. What speed should I hit 12psi
at, or what gear? Due to speed limits I have not taken the car over 80mph. First
and second gear seems to peak out at around 3.4 and third and fourth is only a
little better. Could it be that the Greedy BOV that I recently installed is set
too loose? I am worried about over tightening it. How loud of a sound is
surge?
Joseph
93 3KGT VR4
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Date: Fri, 30 May 2003 07:59:03 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Quick part number...
It's just a typo. 647 is the correct number.
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#167
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