Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, May 28
2003 Volume 02 : Number 166
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 18:05:39 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Need Turbo lessons
Performance Techniques does not do any porting - I think the 13C's are the
biggest wheels that will fit the TD04 *without* any milling... I really
don't know how much they cost, but I'll take a guess--
We had sent him the original 9b's for a rebuild when my car was being built
by Bryan Rogers ("brainfood" on the 3Si board); they were too far gone, so he
charged Bryan ~$800-$850 for NEW 9b cartridges. (I paid Bryan one check
for the car *and* the custom work he did for me, so I don't know the exact turbo
price). In the first outing at the track, one of the turbos failed, so we
sent them both back to Jamie, who was going to replace them for free. (He
wasn't sure if it was our fault that some junk got in and ate up the blades or
if it was their fault, so he was simply honoring their warranty to replace
them. BUT, since we had to spend all that money for the labor to take them
out, I figured I would just upgrade now. I already had a Supra pump
installed, so I added a BC, SAFC, and 550cc injectors to go with the bigger
turbos). I asked for the 13g's but he knew my application - open tracking
- and made other suggestions. We talked it over and I finally decided on
the 13C's, since I *did* want something bigger than the 13g's but I didn't want
to deal with the extra lag of 15g's or bigger. That additional upgrade was
$600, so I guess the total was ~$1400-$1450, including clipping them 5
degrees.
Best,
Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 22:20:26 -0600
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad@uswest.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: total unconditional surrender!
Congrats. I know it was rough. Many sleepless nights. I
went through this
with my output shaft and spun bearing.
My warranty company surrendered after four months of battle and I got a new
engine.
Rgds
Moe
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 23:43:54 -0500
From: "John Monnin" <
john.monnin@3si.zzn.com>
Subject:
Team3S: NG03 Official Registration has begun/ Oil level sensor
Many members of this list do not go to 3Si very often.
The official
registration for 3S National Gathering has begun.
I am organizing the Road course event which currently has 10-15
instructors most of which are local PCA and BMW club instructors. I
am
limiting the number of non-instructors to 45 so register soon. I would love to
have a few more 3S instructors. Email me if you are
interested in
instructing and did not get a email from me already
today.
Register for this event if you are interested in participating.
See you in St Louis!
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 02:10:54 -0400
From: Russ Williams <
3000gt@wildweaselweb.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Info on Erebuni Front Bumper Needed
First off, thanks for all the replies as to how to increase the power
in a non-turbo. Looks like I will be going up to a VR4 as soon as I
can get my hands on one.
In the mean time, I had a minor accident in my 95 3000GT and am in
desperate need of a Erebuni Corp. Front Bumper as part of the Kit
366A. I have called them directly and a number of their distributors
and they are apparently re-designing the kit so they have none
available. I have the car in the shop, waiting just for the front
bumper. If anyone has one or knows where I could get this I would
truly appreciate it.
Thanks Once Again,
Russ
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 02:28:25 -0400
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Blitz Dual Solenoid setup
Speaking of this, I'm having some strange issues with my DSBC. It seems
like small temperature and/or moisture changes really upset the settings and
either make it want to overboost like crazy or not boost high enough. Is this
normal? I mean I understand that a cooler intake charge means denser air, etc.,
but still shouldn't the EBC compensate for that somehow?
Thanks,
Alex.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 13:31:45 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Need Turbo lessons
The MHI 13C compressor wheel is used in the MHI TE04H turbocharger. The
best info I have seen indicates the 13C has the same inducer size (1.580") as
the 13G, but a slightly larger exducer size (2.087" vs. 2.000"). The flow has
always been rated the same as the 13G wheel, or 360 cfm at 2.0 PR and 60%
efficiency (a little less cfm at the "standard" 65% efficiency). The 13C wheel
is used in the GT347 turbo. Of course the 13C will fit in a TD04 housing, which
also easily holds the 13G wheel, the 15G wheel, and the 17G wheel.
Someone actually puts a T3 60-Trim wheel in the TD04 housing? What a waste
when the T3 Garrett housing is available on the TD04 exhaust housing (GT368SX).
Granted, Garrett's older wheels (like the T3) flow much less than MHI wheels of
the same size, but putting the T3 wheel in a TD04 housing is likely not going to
improve that.
Is the 13C larger than 13G? Yes, by 87/1000" at the major diameter.
Does 13C flow more than 13G? Not by any report I have seen.
If someone has a flow map for the 13C/TE04H, please pass it along to me and
I'll update my web pages.
Want to get up to speed on turbos? Sport Compact Car magazine ran a series
of articles concerning turbos. All of them are worth reading.
Issues: July 2001, August 2001, September 2001, October 2001, July
2002.
The one about a year ago showed turbine efficiency before and after
clipping. Efficiency dropped significantly. From their article and reports by
turbo shops, the loss in turbine performance at *all* speeds is hardly worth the
supposed gains of flow or reduced backpressure. But then turbine efficiency and
backpressure are quantities that are rarely if ever measured for our cars.
Also, here is a list of turbo-oriented books I own. Again, all are worth
reading (if you can find them, some are out of print).
Alan Allard, 1982, Turbocharging & Supercharging: Patrick Stephens,
Ltd., 192 p.
A. Graham Bell, 2002, Forced Induction Performance Tuning: Haynes, 464
p.
Corky Bell, 1997, Maximum Boost: Robert Bentley, 250 p.
Earl Davis and Diane Perkins-Davis, 2001, Supercharging, Turbocharging,
& Nitrous Oxide Performance Handbook: MBI, 160 p.
Joe Haile, 1997, Motorcycle Turbocharging, Supercharging & Nitrous
Oxide: Whitehorse Press, 198 p.
John D. Humphries, 1992, Automotive Supercharging and Turbocharging Systems
- A Technical Guide: Motorbooks International, 176 p.
Hugh MacInnes, 1984, Turbochargers: HPBooks, 159 p.
Happy reading, :)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 10:01:20 -0400
From: "Gene Calarco" <
gac@clifton.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Check engine light on >and TCS off light
Jim,
As you suggested I swapped out the 1-4 and 2-3 coils cleaned all the
terminals except the small lead from the transistor, I could not figure out how
to release the pigtail?? did not want to break the thing so I just left it
connected during the procedure....:) ...put it back together, then cleared
the code by removing the negative lead to the battery for 2 minutes. Ran the
engine for 3-5 minuets turned off the engine then scanned the code, it was again
44 power transistor/ 1-4 ...
I put in an order for the part at a price of 169.00US ....ouch! ..should
have it later today...
On my way to work today the check engine light started to flash off and
back on randomly at the same time the tach needle would jump up a few rpm's,
this behavior continued for about 2 miles. When I pulled into the parking
lot, I turned it off, then started up again ...hard check engine light was gone
and "TCS off " light went out for about 45sec then came back on, I let it
idol for 5 minutes and the check engine light would go from on to off every 30
secs or so.....
I would ask do you think the transistor is cutting in and out now? causing
the light to go on/off .....
Eugene
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 10:16:03 -0400
From: Kopsick Michael J Contr
WRALC/LJET <
Michael.Kopsick@robins.af.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Need a 16x8 wheel silver HELP!
Guys does anyone know where I can find a wheel for my 1994 3000gt sl?
I'm pulling my hair out trying to find one......Help. Help Help....
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 16:31:28 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Blitz Dual Solenoid setup
No, the DSBC doesn't compensate for other environment values. It measures
the pressure in the intake manifold and uses the given parameters (gain and
ratio) to control the solenoid. Only the overboost warning and limiter do
watch the pressure and ratio can be lowered with this safety feature.
You are absolutely right as in winter times the ratio I use is smaller than
in summer times. In fact, this is only about 1 or 2 ratio values, not more.
I've only changed the gain once but it is not necessary.
Other EVC try to achieve the set boost level as good as possible. They all
have a "learning" logic in them that is somewhat low and doesn't adapt
quick. Therefore, these controllers are know for overboosting too much
without a safety feature built in (AVC-R) or often achieve less boost than
it is set to (EVC). The new EVC V seems to have a faster learning and the
stepper acts more quick. Those systems can then adapt better to changing
environments. But IMHO, with the Blitz I'm sure that the limiter prevents
damage and I can switch to another ratio setting easily.
If you feel that the difference is too much, you may consider to change
gain to another value that is more appropriate to all ambient and then only
adjust with the Ratio settings you can store in the settings (4 or 3 in the
DC versions)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 10:40:26 -0400
From: "Gene Calarco" <
gac@clifton.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Check engine light on >and TCS off light
Jim,
I did smell something funny when the problem first started like electrical
?? I did not pay much attention to it as if stopped the same day .....
bad
caps? Is the ECU know for that problem? Do you think I
should still
replace the power transistor black module? I would sure
like to save the $$ if that is not going to do it .... still seemed to
have the misfire??
I have had a number of what the dealer put on the RO's > MISC Electrical
repairs? over the service life..but nothing showing the ECU being replaced that
I can remember. The Tach signal seems to originate from the Power
transistor circuit, starts at battery goes to the ignition switch then to the
power transistor to the tach per the schematic in my book.
Eugene
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 11:35:26 -0400 (EDT)
From: Patrick James
Ouellette <
pouellet@mix.wvu.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Electrical Gremlin
It seems I keep chasing my electrical problem in circles. The
symptoms
are as follows: ECS light (Tour/Sport) does not work and car alarm
goes
off sporadically. Everything else, door chimes, interior lights,
fan,
radio all work normally. I suspect a short in the fuse box under
the
hood. Any suggestions or help narrowing the search? Thanks
for any
help you can offer.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 11:37:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: Patrick James
Ouellette <
pouellet@mix.wvu.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Snap Acceleration Test? Need Advice
I have just moved to a new state and they are performing a "Snap
Acceleration Test"
on ALL cars, not just diesels. I have gone as far
as the top guy at the station and he is clueless that this is a test for diesel
engines only.
To make matters worse they rev the engine quickly
and repeatedly well beyond the red line while it is sitting in neutral.
According to the supervisor, manufacturer's specs are just guidelines and don't
really mean that much. I think they may have actually damaged the
engine. Anyway, I have found a lot of information about this test on the
Internet.
What I am hoping to find is some documentation regarding
the harm this could do to a non-diesel engine. We have been together
almost three years. I love this car. I have put on a lot of miles
but it has been properly maintained. I will move before I sell it or allow
it to be abused. I'm just trying to go in with as much ammunition as
possible. If you have any suggestions or could point me to
someone/someplace that might, I would be eternally grateful.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 11:41:17 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Snap Acceleration Test? Need Advice
Wont our cars hit fuel cut a few hundred RPM's past redline?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 11:50:30 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Snap Acceleration Test? Need Advice
Yes they will but winding the engine up to that point and bouncing it of
the revlimiter for any extended period of time with no drivetrain load will harm
the engine.
The above action can cause connecting rod stretch, hurt the lower rod
bearings, upper crank bearings, and even stretch the rod bolts if done for a
long enough period of time.
Give me a few minutes and I will see what I can dig up on Google.
Russ F
CT
DR-650's + supporting mods
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 15:51:41 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Snap Acceleration Test? Need Advice
> To make matters worse they rev the engine
> quickly and
repeatedly well beyond the
> red line while it is sitting in
neutral.
This makes no sense as a pollution test. Once the motor reaches the
revlimiter
(about 7250 RPM), the motor will cut spark to limit RPM and raw
fuel will make
its way out the exhaust and cause invalid readings
anyway. Completely and
totally pointless as a test of anything useful,
and probably not a great thing
for the car.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 10:51:57 -0500
From: Jon Paine <
ppainej@attglobal.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Electrical Gremlin
The alarm could be caused by a door switch - the switch has 2 contacts
so it's possible for the lights to work normally and the alarm to still
have a flaky contact. The contacts are exposed and cleanable when you
take the switch out. One of mine needed to have a contact straightened
out to make it reliable. No idea on the ECS, I haven't spent much time
looking at its operation - mine works OK so far. ;)
Jon
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 09:42:05 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Electrical Gremlin
For the car alarm problem, check the hood switch near the underhood fusebox
near the air filter. It often gets a little out of alignment and doesn't
make a good contact.
As for the ECS problem, does the light not work at all, or does it flash
one or both of the lights?
- --Erik
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 13:41:41 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Snap Acceleration Test? Need Advice
I agree the test is not a good idea on a gasoline engine. I was just
inquiring about the rev limiter. Patrick, maybe you should take your car
somewhere else. What did the service station tell you they intend to test
by performing a snap acceleration test on your car? Generally, the test is
used to determine the amount of diesel soot spewed out of a diesel engine.
Since gasoline cars do not emit particulates, I can't for the life of me see
anything that they could be testing for, except perhaps oil blow-by from worn
rings.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 14:08:26 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@spamcop.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Front exhaust manifold
I have a crack in my front exhaust manifold and have a replacement sitting
here ready to take service. Can the front exhaust manifold be removed
without removing the radiator and front turbo? The manual says to remove
these items which I agree will make it easier but removing the radiator will
lose a good bit of fluid and removing the turbo is not something I've done so do
not know how involved it is.
I have managed to loosen 6 of the 7 bolts that hold on the front exhaust
manifold to the engine and can get a wrench on the 7th one (on the passenger
side on the bottom row of bolts) but there is zero room to move the wrench and I
do not have an impact wrench nearby. Is there a chance that the air intake
hose to the turbo can be removed for room instead of completely unbolting the
turbo from its location?
And no pictures of this process as my camera is still at Watkins
Glen. The heat shield was a bear and a half to remove by the way and I
hate to think that I have to reinstall it but I know without it I risk melting
the plastic fans and fan shrouds.
- --Flash!
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 20:00:36 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Need a 16x8 wheel silver HELP!
Or are you really saying "Where can I find one for less than $100?"?
:)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 16:11:38 -0400
From: "Gene Calarco" <
gac@clifton.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Check engine light on >and TCS off light
Jim,
I removed splash plate and attempted to get a whiff....and seems to be
normal odor ..not dead fish.....
I went and picked up the Power transistor unit ...and replaced the existing
one ....cleared codes...
and CEL is off and TCS is not lit .........so .....seems to have corrected
the fault ...
now...the tach is still stumbling a little bit...and idol is
rough.....seems there is still a misfire going on ... do you think fouled
plugs...1-4 ..?
.....should I attempt to clean them.... I have
the NGK Platinum premium
plugs in there with only 30K on them ...
Or do you think just drive if for a bit to see if it smoothes out, I did
drive it for 2 days in the fault condition. I will take a look at the ECU for
the cap problem also.
Thanks again for all you input on this problem.
Eugene
------------------------------
I need one used 17" 97-99 SL chrome 6-spoke wheel. Flaking chrome is okay.
If it is bent I will have is straightened. Flash is already mad at me and he
will be mad at me even more if I do not find it soon. And I would prefer not to
buy that wheel from a dealer because that would cost more than buying a whole
set of used 17" rims. Please, if you know where I could get one let me know. I
have searched almost all the junkyards across the US.
Philip
-
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 20:37:31 -0000
From: Kopsick Michael J Contr
WRALC/LJET <
Michael.Kopsick@robins.af.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need a 16x8 wheel silver HELP!
Guys Thanks a Bunch!
www.800wheels.com has the wheel....I own a
graphics business and use this car as a show car-advertisement. They said
since I have a business (if you don't have one, BS em and say your with Mitsu
Creations or whatever you want to call it) anyway, the wheel is 178.75 and then
once I receive the new wheel (which is reconditioned and guaranteed) I send back
my damaged one (they pay shipping) and receive an additional $50 discount.
so total on the wheel is just $128.75...you cant get one at a junk yard any
cheaper...MANY MANY THANKS GUYS!
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 20:33:12 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@spamcop.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Front exhaust manifold
Incidentally, the front exhaust manifold can NOT be removed without also
removing the front turbo. This is because the studs onto which the front
exhaust manifold sits are at an angle and removing the manifold means it will
move down and forward and the turbo prevents this. Removing the radiator
aids in access to the bottom left nut of the manifold and removing the A/C line
aids access to the bottom right nut. All others are obtainable although
the correct mix or tools has yet to be determined: wobble, universal, tilt head,
extension, adapter, 14 mm socket/open end wrench, etc. Hopefully I don't need to
do this more than once.
- --Flash!
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 20:44:33 -0400 (EDT)
From: Castawaykev <
castawaykev@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: might be miss firing? or vacuum seal
Hi folks,
My 92 DOHC Stealth ES seems to be miss firing. Not
100% sure so I
had my mechanic (never worked on a
Stealth before) change the plugs and
then I took it
for a drive. Still the same sputtering at low gears.
So I had the other 3 plugs changed and the wires
changed. I moved
up to platinum NGK's from regular.
The Platinums cost $15-17 Canadian per
plug. The
wires were about $92 cdn. After that was all done
it
was still not running right at the shop. In fact it
was
backfiring. The mechanic said I needed a new
timing belt.... So I
ordered one. Then I got wise. I
looked to this site and read up
on how to change the
plugs myself and all about the timing belt etc. I
had
been watching him put the wires on and noticed he had
them out of
synch but at the time he informed me that
they were correct. After
using this site I called him
in the morning and advised him that the wires
HAD to
be plugged in differently. He later did that and it
sounded
99% better. OK so I say 99%. Well he said
the car was ready and
all that was needed was a crank
pulley in a day or two. So I just
ordered that...used...because....the Chrysler ones cost $430cdn... after market
cost around $175-200 and used go for $50-125 in range. I am waiting for
the one I got for $50 to arrive. Back to the spark plug fiasco. It
seems after I got the car back...yesterday..that it was running slightly
off. She hesitated in idle and didn't seem to have the kick that she used
to have. I am definitely sure about the hesitation.
They never changed
the gasket so it may be related to
that., It is a metal gasket under the
Plenum and
doesn't really need to be changed but should or else
have
silicon rubbed on or so I think. They did
nothing. I am wondering
what else it coupled
be.,....clogged injectors? a bent piston?
They checked the injectors by using the fuel pressure
and said that they
were ok. I am not so sure. As for
the plugs I think maybe they
might have fried one of
my new platinum plugs. Otherwise a wire could
be
pinched under the plenum or a seal....not sure. She
just isn't
running like she did.
Could it be the fuel filter? I did run some NOS
booster stuff last
week to test it out. Oh
yeah...the mechanic didn't have the proper
tools to
take off my crank pulley so he got it off rather
roughly and it
is now all chipped and broken....now I
have to wait for the one I ordered
regardless or pay
for a new one.
I am getting fed up with the mechanics on Prince
Edward Island.
They may only charge $40 per hour
but...it takes them 3 times as long to
figure things
out. Plus my car is something that most of them save
a
couple of guys at the Chrysler dealer have ever
seen. Yep I live on an
agricultural Island where
trucks are king. The roads suck and my
dream
car....is still waiting to run 100% again. So I need
all your
help as to what I should check as to why she
runs with some hesitation.
I had 2 mechanics at 2
different places fool around with the plugs. One
guy
owns a 3000gt and he works at the Honda dealer....go
figure.
Funny thing is they've been the most helpful.
Also their body shop did
my paint job....after my car
was vandalized.
I am supposed to leave on a 24 hour drive to Southern Ontario...to visit my
parents....haven't seen them in over 7 years. Then back thru Ottawa to see
more family and friends. SO any help from you techies, mechanics and just
fellow stealth/3000gt owners would be welcomed.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 18:38:32 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
might be miss firing? or vacuum seal
Kev-
You've come to the right place.
If it was my car and I had time AND money to spare, here's what I'd
do...
- -go to the Team3S "FAQ" section and read the instructions on how to check
cam/valve timing. do it. if the timing is off, then take pictures and yell
at the appropriate mechanic + get your refund. if it is on time correctly, then
do a compression test. test to make sure the compression in within spec and
relatively consistent among all the cylinders.
- -check the resistance on
those spark plugs wires. is it within spec?
- -take out your spark plugs and
look at them. make sure they are clean and gapped correctly. if they are not
gapped correctly, then be very careful when re-gapping (use a pad or special
tool) since a standard gapping tool will destroy the platinum electrode
-
-realize that your aftermarket crank pulley that you ordered may not have the
correct dampening that our engine needs, and be ready to beat the heck out of
your mechanic until he replaces it with the OEM part.... for free of
course
Your problem is intermittent, so it is not likely that the injectors are
the cause. Injectors pretty much work or don't work.
Keep in mind that lots of these things are not easy to do. If this is
your first time messing with your own car then I'd get a friend (mechanic
friend), read the procedures MANY times, and proceed with caution. And
don't make the mistake of leaving air hoses uncovered. Random pieces of
junk can fall into your engine when you're working. They can and will bend
your valves and cause big headaches and extremely high repair bills.
If you still don't have luck with finding something broken after all this,
report back to us so that we can tell you more.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 21:28:57 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: I need a 17" 97-99 SL wheel too
- Cody
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 23:23:29 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
philip@supercar-engineering.com>
Subject:
Re: 3S-Racers: RE: Team3S: I need a 17" 97-99 SL wheel too
Cody, I think it is a wrong URL. But that gave me an idea: maybe I should
place a poster on the side of my car saying that I need one 17" rim and
drive around like that??? LOL!
:-)
Some sites have those rims, but they sell them only as new and want about
$380 for them. Flash told me he wants an ugly rim because if I get him a
shiny one it will stand out too much comparing to his other three. :-)
Another idea... Maybe someone would want to buy a new shiny 17" SL rim and
sell me their ugly one?? Just a thought...
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 May 2003 00:17:37 -0400
From: "Joseph Spainhour" <
spainhou@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Team3S: SBC-ID English manual
Hi All,
Does anyone know where I can get the blitz SBC-ID manual in
English?
Thanks,
Joseph
93 3KGT VR4
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#166
***************************************