Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, May 27
2003 Volume 02 : Number 165
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 19:12:36 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: More Power on a Non-Turbo?
Massive head work, high compression pistons..if you have any money left,
replace EVERYTHING with lightweight components, right down to the valves.
- ---
Now offering replacement
Toyota/Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Porsche/SAAB/Volvo parts Where do you buy YOUR brakes
from?
orders@speedtoys.com Maybe
I can help..asking is free. :) "If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 00:29:54 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch problems/Changing the clutch
>> Anyone who has done a clutch please give me some input.
Special
>> tools? Tips and tricks on dropping the tranny?
>> Bleed the clutch?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 22:31:15 -0500
From: "Nick McDermott" <
eire1274@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: New
member question: Service manuals
Hello, everybody. I'm new to both the list and to 3000GT
ownership. In fact, I don't even have the car here yet; I'm driving down
to Oklahoma City next Monday to pick it up.
The car is a 93 US-spec 3000GT VR-4. Engine is in good shape except
some goof on the lot decided to take apart the air intake and intercooler pipes,
which I get to put together. Also, the transmission was thoroughly killed
by the previous (17-year-old) clutch-popping owner by hopping a curb at 20Mph
and coming down on the transfer case, so a Getrag 6-speed will be going up in
its place. Everything else (except right front rim which will be replaced
RE: curb hop) is peachy.
Now, here's the crutch: I've spent 10 years working on engines and cars in
general as a hobby. I know a Pontiac long-block V8 inside and out. But a
DOHC twin-turbo is a different creature. In fact, I just assembled my
first SOHC Nissan motor ever this afternoon. But that aside, I need an
inexpensive service manual. Neither Chilton's nor Hayes makes one that
covers the 93 Stealth/3000GT, let alone the TT/VR-4. I cannot afford a
Mitsubishi dealer's reference set at this point. Does anyone have a
suggestion where I could find a printed model-specific reference in the
US?
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 May 2003 22:33:09 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: New member question: Service manuals
Go OEM..no substitute.
:)
- ---
Now offering replacement
Toyota/Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Porsche/SAAB/Volvo parts Where do you buy YOUR brakes
from?
orders@speedtoys.com Maybe
I can help..asking is free. :) "If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 01:10:56 -0400
From: ERIC PIERCE PIERCE <
griz600cc@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: More Power on a Non-Turbo?
Check out
http://www.3sxperformance.com/. I have
a non-turbo Stealth
(but will eventually change to a turbo). Just a thought
to consider,
when upgrading power, you should also look into upgrading the
brake
components and suspension. I personally did the suspension and the
brake components first. It's just as important to be able to stop and
handle as it is to go fast.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 02:48:18 -0400
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: New
member question: Service manuals
You can get the dealer set on CD for $30...
www.manualcd.com The 3000gt manuals go for
$100+, the stealth manuals straight from Chrysler I think sell for $60, with no
difference other then body panels and 3kgt specific stuff (active aero). A good
alternative over the more expensive 3kgt manuals.
Omar
92 r/t
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 09:33:46 -0400
From: "Gene Calarco" <
gac@clifton.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Check engine light on >and TCS off light
I pulled into my office this weekend and my 92 >DOHC n/t started to
stumble erratically, the tach was going all over the place like a short was
happening. Now the car seems to be running on less that 6 and a hard check
engine light displays on the dash and also the "TCS off" light is on
constant. I don't have a scan MUT so I just used a multi-meter to test
voltage at the diag. connector, the read out I got was code 44. This seems
to be the Ignition system power transistor 1-4 per my manual. Has anyone
seen this type of behavior on their engine? What steps should I take to
correct the fault? Check coil? then power transistor? I'm not sure if this
is a real failure or just due to wet wiring we have has rain for 5 days in a
row.
GC
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 11:28:03 -0400
From: "Gene Calarco" <
gac@clifton.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Check engine light on >and TCS off light
Thank you for the idea, this may be a good way to isolate which is at
fault. Will testing the voltage at the 1-4 terminal of the coil tell me if the
coil is bad also? I just found a procedure described in Chilton's which
was not in Mitsubishi's shop manual. They suggest testing the voltage at the
high side and the low side of the coil to see if it is with in a spec. My
question really is do these power transistors go out just like that? my car is
running (but very poorly), does the system cut fuel to the 1-4 cylinder or just
spark? Do you know if driving it short distances will harm the
engine?
GC
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 11:20:09 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: New member question: Service manuals
The CD is only legal if you have a printed set.
Do the right thing..buy the book.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 13:46:20 -0500
From: "John M. Hughes" <
hughesjohn@mac.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Another A/C problem
The a/c on my 93 TT is cutting off after 5-15 minutes or it won't blow
cold if I turn it on after a few minutes. The climate control display
shows nothing unusual. Last year I had to replace the revolution
pick-up
sensor on the compressor and I dye checked the system and
refilled. Any
ideas?
J M Hughes
------------------------------
Thanks to everyone who replied with advice, the extended warranty company
just called and said that they would LOVE to have the synchros replaced on my 6
speed transmission!
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 12:54:37 -0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need Turbo lessons
You beat me to it, Matt. :) It's my understanding that clipping
is done to improve top-end exhaust flow, at the expense of a longer spool
time. In a nutshell, clipping the exhaust wheel allows a small amount of
exhaust to pass through the housing without spinning the wheel. At lower
RPMs this means that less of the exhaust is pushing the wheel, and thus spool-up
is increased. At higher RPMs when the wheel is already spinning at full
tilt, this exhaust gas passing through helps to decrease backpressure and
improve VE.
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 16:04:43 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need Turbo lessons
However there is a downside to turbine wheel clipping it reduces the
overall efficiency of the turbo, in addition clipping can cause premature
wear/failure due to the fact on the high-end the turbo is being over spun. By
how much I am not sure, but every builder I have spoken with doesn't recommend
clipping but will do it if specifically asked to do so.
Just my .02
Russ F
CT
93 VR-4 DR650's + supporting mods
------------------------------
You folks realize we are being watched, don't you?
John Monnin (I think it was) warned everybody signing up for the St Louis
driving event that Mitsubishi was monitoring the list to find the names of
people who race their cars. The intent was to deny transfer case replacements to
them bad guys.
My wife, a bankruptcy attorney*, just discovered that the Gummint is
monitoring her on-line consumer bankruptcy forums. One of the folks on the list
said the U.S. Trustee in her district mentioned something she had said on the
list. "How did you know I said that?," she asked. The trustee said, "Somebody
sent it to me." Yeah, right.
Hoo boy. Does this mean we all gotta start using handles and untraceable
mailboxes?
What really pisses me off is that if Mitsubishi is watching our forums, why
don't the rotten sumbitches help us out with our technical questions? After all,
they race cars, too. They could be like BMW, Porsche, Volvo, Subaru, the old
Datsun (man, I loved those guys at Datsun Competition), and other companies and
help us instead of trying to take away our transfer cases.
Rich/slow old poop
*She's one of the good guys. She saves farms, businesses, and marriages by
helping people get out of financial difficulties.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 20:42:30 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Another A/C problem
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 20:48:44 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Big Brother is listening
> John Monnin (I think it was) warned everybody
> signing up for
the St Louis driving event that
> Mitsubishi was monitoring the list to
find the
> names of people who race their cars. The intent
> was to
deny transfer case replacements to
> them bad guys.
I'd be surprised if they haven't been doing that for a long time. I
doubt they
could legally get out of the recall responsibilities on a raced
car if the car
wasn't substantially modified beyond its design
parameters. On a bone-stock
car, whether it is raced or not shouldn't
matter.
Mitsubishi likes to deny warranty claims even on stock vehicles if they
think
they can get away with it. If they are spying on us and taking
down names of
enthusiasts to invalidate warranties and safety recalls, then
I guess I won't
be buying that Lancer Evolution I'm planning on buying next
year to replace my
Dodge (Mitsubishi) Avenger.
- -Matt
'95 Mitsubishi 3000GT Spyder VR4
'96 Mitsubishi (Dodge)
Avenger
'93 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
'94 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4
'91
Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-DOHC
'88 Mitsubishi
Mighty Max
'86 Mitsubishi Starion
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 15:54:42 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Big Brother is listening
Of course, a "race" involves a # of legal issues Mitsu will never be able
to prove.
Open trackin is not illegal, nor does it harm anyone's warranty.
DRAG racing..does. The nature of drag racing voids out warrantees
based on simple owner abuse.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 21:18:05 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Big Brother is listening
> DRAG racing..does. The nature of drag racing
> voids out
warrantees based on simple owner abuse.
As long as you don't just wind up the engine and drop the clutch I don't
see
how 14 seconds of continuous acceleration is much different on the abuse
scale
than road racing. Most tracks have straight sections, and I
doubt that open
trackers just coast through them, and they probably don't
granny shift the
tranny either.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 14:29:51 -0700
From: "Damon Rachell" <
DamonR@MEFAS.com>
Subject: Team3S: Rear
sway bar install...
Since several people have asked about the rear sway bar removal and
install, I dug up the original instructions that I had made about a year
ago.
Hope you guys enjoy. Hehehe, I certainly did :->
Damon
Rear Sway bar install:
This is a general outline for the removal and installation of the rear sway
bar in a 1992 Dodge Stealth R/T Turbo with AWS. Total time it took me was
about 5 hours, but I take everything VERY SLOW. I'd rather literally do it
twice to get it right than have it done half-assed. Those cars that do not
have AWS have about 1-1.5 hours less of work and much easier clearance. If
I had to do it again, though, it would probably take no more than 2-2.5 hours,
max.
The AWS pipes are right by the sway bar and need to be shifted often to get
the old bar out and the new bar in. Patience, the right tools, a little
elbow grease, a beautiful day, a competent partner (no household dog for
companionship), a 6-pack of America's Finest and a pizza (for when completed, of
course) are all necessary. Sorry no pics but I'll try when we do Jim's car
soon (Fastmax). Here we go!
1) Remove both rear wheels and jack the car way up and place on jack
stands. I did this side by side rather than using the diff. I can
get greater height this way.
2) Remove the end links from both the sway bar
and the control arm using a 12mm socket and a 14mm thin wrench (to prevent
twisting of the end link). Maintain orientation of the bushings and
caps. These will be reused until urethane bushings can be made.
3)
Remove the Tie Rod Ends from the AWS. This makes additional room to
work.
4) Remove the rear shock absorber lower mounting bolt and pry the shock
away from the shock lower mount. I used a pry bar for this.
5) Remove
the parking brake mounting bolts (3 12mms).
6) Remove the exhaust support
bolts from the driver's side. There are two under the bumper, one near the
upper control arm and one below the lower control arm. This allows the
differential maximum clearance from the body.
7) ***Now comes the fun
stuff: Using a floor jack and a 2"X4", begin supporting the differential
from the bottom. Once the next 2 steps are completed, the differential is
FREE from the body. It NEEDS support like your grandma's booty!
8)
Remove the cross member brackets that attach the frame to the differential
carrier (17mm towards the front and 19mm towards the rear).
9) Remove
the cross member mounting bolt behind the upper control arm (22mm).
10) Lower
the differential approximately 1-2" ONLY! This gives you room to remove
the fixing bolts to the AWS pipes that are nearly inaccessible before the diff
drop.
11) Remove the 5 AWS fixing bolts (12mm), two on each side of the diff,
two under the body in front of the diff, and one where the 4 AWS lines converge
on top of the differential carrier towards the front of the differential.
This last one is a complete PITA so be careful. It can be done,
though.
12) Now mark the position of the AWS brackets on the cross
member. Remove the 4 17mm bolts.
13) Slide the AWS rack away from the
sway bar brackets. The hoses all have flexible sections but are mostly
rigid so be careful not to kink anything. With enough room to get to the
12mm sway bar bracket bolts, remove them.
14) At this point, even when I
lowered the diff to the max, there wasn't enough room to get the bar out.
So, remove the rear center support bearing bolts on the driveshaft from the body
and support the Lobro Joint with a 2X4 preventing excessive sag. Too much
sag at the Lobro Joint can split the boot, which will then need costly
replacement.
15) With the driveshaft loose and supported, lower the diff
approximately 6". Make sure that you watch all lines and hoses, all
connections, and frankly everything! Do it slowly! Lots of potential
to screw something up here but just take your time and watch everything.
16)
With about 6" of clearance between the body and the diff, the sway bar can be
maneuvered out. This is best done with 2 people. Watch the brake
lines. They don't need to be removed, but just keep an eye out for
them.
Installation:
1) Slide the new sway bar in place. Make sure that
the bar is ORIENTED the proper way!!! Again, be careful of the AWS lines
and the brake lines.
2) Attach the sway bar to the frame with the new
brackets but keep them loose. Use washers on the bolts due to the slightly
larger holes in the new brackets. I just didn't trust the fitment without
the washers.
3) Raise the diff to about 2" from the top using the floor
jack.
4) Reattach the AWS lines on top of the diff.
5) Reattach the center
support bearing.
6) Reattach the lower shock mount bolts (72 ft-lbs).
7)
This gets the suspension to roughly the right geometry to fix the sway bar in
place. Reattach the end links to the sway bar and the lower control
arm. Match the number of threads exposed on the outside of each bolt so
both sides are symmetrical. Don't over tighten at this point.
8) Slide
the bar as far forward (towards the engine) as the sway bar brackets will allow
and tighten the bracket bolts down firmly. I found that my bar seemed to
be about 1/4" too long when the brackets were centered so pushing the brackets
up front helps even it out a bit.
9) Reattach all AWS pipe fixing
bolts
10) Reinstall the AWS rack bolts (30 ft-lbs)
11) Fully raise the
diff. I raised it til it just about lifted the car off the jack stands,
then lowered it a tad (don't quote me on how far a tad is: it's a little
more than a bit but a lot less than a lot!!!)
12) Install the 22mm cross
member mounting bolt behind and above the upper control arm. Don't torque
down until the diff is unsupported off the jack.
13) Install the Cross member
bracket bolts and nuts.
14) Reattach the exhaust.
15) At this point, there
shouldn't be any nuts or bolts lying around. Make sure to fully lower the
diff.
16) Torque the 22mm cross member mounting nuts to 42ft lbs, the 19mm
cross member mounting bolt to 80-94ft lbs and the 17mm mounting nuts to 51-61ft
lbs.
And I think that's that. This is all from memory and by the time I
was done, that was pretty foggy, but this should get you close. If there's
some changes that need to be made or recommendations, please feel free to
contact me and I'll amend the recipe.
Thanks and happy boosting.
Damon
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 16:53:46 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Big Brother is listening
The nature of drag racing is abusive to the driveline. Who dragraces
with a smooth controlled clutch action? Nobody. Even if you -do- its
not the nature of the sport to do so.
The nature of road racing is not abusive to anything other than what are
considered normal wear items.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 17:58:19 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Big Brother is listening
Keep in mind, however, that the transfer case recall is a safety recall,
and not a warranty claim. So this isn't a question of denying a warranty
claim because of "misuse and abuse." If the condition exists as specified
in the recall, then the remedy provided in the recall must be honored.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 16:57:50 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Big Brother is listening
Agreed, I was reacting towards the warranty call, not the safety
recall.
------------------------------
> Most tracks have straight sections, and I doubt that open trackers
>just coast through them, and they probably don't granny shift the
>tranny either.
I don't abuse my tranny or clutch on road courses. No launches, no speed
shifts, and -- if nothing serious is going on around me -- I usually up shift at
6000 instead of taking it up to the redline.
Us road course people NEVER abuse our cars like you drag racers. We are
gentle on the brakes, suspension, engine, and so on.
In fact, I like to think I am driving the car the way the engineers at
Mitsubishi intended when they designed these magnificent cars. Why else would
they give us aerodynamic aids, electronic suspensions, four wheel steering, and
so on?
I just don't understand why, when we are driving the cars the way they were
meant to be driven, that Mitsubishi has abandoned us. Why are those original
engineers so quiet? They should be like Zora Arkus Duntov*, take part in our
activities, and allow us to pay homage to their brilliance. Hasn't Mitsu
learned ANYTHING from watching the great car companies like Porsche, BMW,
Ferrari, and other marques? They should be supporting us, not ignoring us.
When you get right down to it, our cars are coming out of the closet. We
had five cars at Road America. The Left Coasters turn out big contingents. Our
ten year old cars run with the big dogs all the time. Our novices have nothing
to fear when they run in the beginner's groups against doctors in new M3s and
Boxsters. Our cars hold their own in all venues against comparable cars and
drivers. Thanks to this list and the racer's list we're solving our braking
problems, parts are becoming available, we have ENGINEERS like the Mad Russian
and Jack T and several others doing some serious development work, and our ranks
are growing. I can't think of a single car that offers as much bang for the buck
as our battleship Mitsubishis.
Man, if we only had some help from the factory, too, we'd blow them all
away.
Rich/slow old poop.
*Champion designer of Corvettes, for all the young punk kids in the
crowd.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 17:05:39 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Big Brother is listening
> I just don't understand why, when we are driving the cars the way
they
> were meant to be driven, that Mitsubishi has abandoned us. Why are
> those original engineers so quiet? They should be like Zora Arkus
Duntov*, take part in our activities, and allow us to pay homage to their
brilliance. Hasn't Mitsu learned ANYTHING from watching the great car
companies like Porsche, BMW, Ferrari, and other marques? They should be
supporting us, not ignoring us.
- ---
Marketing hype. It worked in
the early 90s for sports cars. If it was race inspired and bred..funny how
Mitsu never campaigned it.
> Man, if we only had some help from
the factory, too, we'd blow them
> all away.
- ---
I dunno..whats a
99VR4 in today's $ worth compared to a Z06 at $51k.
- ---
Now
offering replacement Toyota/Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Porsche/SAAB/Volvo parts Where do
you buy YOUR brakes from?
orders@speedtoys.com Maybe I can
help..asking is free. :) "If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 17:14:57 -0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
brian.geisel@hp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Blitz Dual Solenoid setup
Hey folks,
Anyone know how Blitz's dual solenoid design works, and
what makes it different from the single solenoid setup? Matt Monett
mentions that the single solenoid setup doesn't work on our cars. Any one
know why this is? I can't find online documentation anywhere, what does
the configuration of the two solenoids look like... are they serial, parallel,
etc?
TIA,
geis
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 18:18:25 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Big Brother is listening
The simple response? Mitsu prefers to accommodate the ricer market by
building cheap, base-line dogs that with a little money can be converted into
Fast and Furious rice-mobiles. That way, they don't need to worry about
building and supporting a strong car. They need only worry about one that
looks nice and has the support of the ricer market.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 15:22:36 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Need Turbo lessons
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
>
However there is a downside to turbine wheel clipping it reduces the
>
overall
efficiency of the turbo, in addition clipping can cause premature
wear/failure due to the fact on the high-end the turbo is being over spun. By
how much I am not sure, but every builder I have spoken with doesn't recommend
clipping but will do it if specifically asked to do so.
> Just my
.02
> Russ F
> CT
> 93 VR-4 DR650's + supporting mods
-
------------------------------------->
Which is exactly the reason that I went with custom turbos instead of the
'normal' clip of 15 degrees... I put in 13c's, which are the biggest wheel
you can put in the TD04 housing, (I think) and are somewhere between the GTPro
347's and 357's in output (something ~400cfm, IIRC...), according to Jamie at
Performance Techniques (
www.turbocharged.com). I sent him
my stock turbos and we talked about what I was looking for, which is fast
spool-up for road racing. He recommended that I go slightly bigger than
13g's, to 13C's and to get a clip of only 5 degrees. The guy was
knowledgeable and responsive, so I took his advice, since it fit in with many of
our discussions here on the list. I'm still running stock boost and pretty
rich, since I haven't datalogged my car sufficiently yet, but I'm very happy
with the power increase (which is substantial!), and the responsiveness - which
feels just like stock or maybe even better(?). After I get it logged, the
dyno will tell the tale... If you talk to Jamie, remind him after you get
a price that he is one of the Team3S "Good Guys" Vendors (see his listing and
email on the "GoodGuys" page). He gives Team3S members a nice discount.
www.Team3S.com/FAQgoodguys.htm
Best,
- --Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 00:30:14 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Blitz Dual Solenoid setup
Yes I know it very well as I disassembled them after everything was full of
oil.
The DSBC is a parallel dual solenoid setup. The idea is simple : a small
solenoids = fast reaction but not enough volume to be transferred. Two small
solenoids in parallel : fast reaction and double the volume.
Any solenoid or stepping motor solution works in our car. At the end the
control mechanism and the closed loop to control a steady boost is what counts.
Therefore the head unit and the solenoids/motor must work together very well. It
is know that some fuzzy logic do not work well with bi-turbo engines but this
mostly belongs to sequential setups like in the Supra TT.
Roger G.
93' & 96'3000GT TT ... both "Blitzed" (DSBC, DBC-DC)
www.rtec.ch
------------------------------
AFAIK, the solenoids are parallel. They are different size. The small one
is to control fine oscillations and the large one (or both of them) is to
control large oscillations. Some BC work well with some cars but not with
others. Design limitations. Blitz seems to have the best idea among all the
gadget manufacturers about controlling boost. Good boost controller.
Probably close to the manual boost controller as far as the
price/performance ratio.
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 17:38:44 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Big Brother is listening
Just because the SCCA says you cant do it -there- doesn't mean others
(including the SCCA) don't allow it anywhere else.
- ---
Now offering replacement
Toyota/Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Porsche/SAAB/Volvo parts Where do you buy YOUR brakes
from?
orders@speedtoys.com Maybe
I can help..asking is free. :) "If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 15:38:37 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Big Brother is listening
Almost no place to play with AWD --- Audi had a hell of a time also, as
soon
as they won they banned AWD.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 15:40:35 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Blitz Dual Solenoid setup
I ran the Blitz SSBC for a year without problems --- I've even considered
replacing my AVC-R with my old Blitz.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 00:49:00 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Blitz Dual Solenoid setup
Philip, both solenoids are the same and are opening and are activated the
same time (only two wires to activate them, no logic in the solenoids). No
difference, no specific control, everything is done in the control box.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 15:49:38 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Big Brother is listening
Aftermarket and manufacturing support are developed as a result of lots of
folks campaigning the car --- they don't give a damn about 6 guys in California
going to open track events. Aftermarket would care about 600 guys but without
publicity the manufacturer probably won't cross the street to help.
You'll notice I said almost no place to play --- most of the big time
formats excluded AWD.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Weird. I do not have one, sorry. I guess I read too much into the marketing
literature. :-)
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 16:48:16 -0700
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Need Turbo lessons - Clipping
See, I was always thought that it was the intake hosing wheel that got
clipped not the exhaust. I guess the way you explain it, it makes sense. Is
there 2 ways they do clipping or what?
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 16:36:43 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Big Brother is listening
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
I
don't abuse my tranny or clutch on road courses. No launches, no speed shifts,
and -- if nothing serious is going on around me -- I usually up shift at 6000
instead of taking it up to the redline.
> Us road course people NEVER
abuse our cars like you drag racers. We
> are gentle on the brakes,
suspension, engine, and so on. In fact, I like to think I am driving the
car the way the engineers at Mitsubishi intended when they designed these
magnificent cars. Why else would they give us aerodynamic aids, electronic
suspensions, four wheel steering, and so on?
-
----------------snip------------------->
I agree completely. Three of us ran the hell out of the VR-4 this
past Sunday on the Sears Point (Infineon) track in the NASCAR Winston Cup
configuration, which includes "The Chute" (in up to 90-degree temps). The
"Blue Beast" never even broke a sweat. All we were doing was running the
car as it was designed - which IS "designed for racing". That's what the
"O" in "GTO" stands for - "Omologato" = "Homologated for Racing", which means
that the car was submitted to the FIA for approval, that it conforms to
established track standards for some 100+ components. On Sunday, all of us
passed the usual number of Vipers, Vettes and Porsches... pretty much all of the
"street" cars and even a few of the race-prepped cars, as we usually do.
The car ran all day, as contrasted to certain Z-06 Vettes :-) which had to be
retired early... (eh, Geoff?). LOL!
Our VR-4 got the equivalent of FOUR track days in ONE day-- ET ran 4
sessions in Open Track, 2 sessions in Group 3, and 2 sessions in Group 2b (with
the Instructor "X" on the car, we can run in any group); I ran 4 sessions
in Group 4 and 1 session in Open Track; and our friend from NYC, Terry, ran 4
sessions in Group 2A. That's 17 runs on a warm day with nary a burp.
None of us speed-shifted, or revved the hell out of the car, which you *must* do
when you're drag-racing. My SAFC2 has a peak-hold feature, and the top RPM
we hit all day was 6850 (which was when I did one 3rd gear pull to 125-130 on
the straight, I'm sure). I don't think the car was over 6500 the rest of
the day - probably less. Even the head of NASA Timing and Scoring came
down and asked us what the deal was - "This car is out in *every* group on
*every* run - what gives???" We ran the car all day and it was *never*
'abused'!
(PS: ET also ran over 4 sessions in her new Spec Miata - I don't
think she missed a single run group driving in *one* of our cars!)
Open tracking is all about smoothness and control through the turns at high
speed. The only abuse is to the tires and brakes, since our beefy
suspensions are made to take a drift at 120mph, and our engines are made to run
safely right up to redline. And we open-trackers make the suspension and
engine even stronger with aftermarket components. For the record...,
relevant mods/settings are below my sig...
- --Forrest
'91 VR-4 running 91
octane pump gas; Porterfield rotors, stock brakes, R4 pads, JIC FLT-A2 "Magic"
suspension full soft, no preload; 13C turbos (clipped
5) at stock boost
(peak-hold SAFC2 said .5 bar max, 6850 max rpm all day), RC550cc injectors,
Supra 255lph pump running full voltage, TurboSX dual BC (on low), Greddy-S BOV;
SAFC set at Low:35%, High:70% (low) settings on rich:
800rpm> -35,
1600rpm> -30, 2200rpm> -30, 2800rpm> -30, 3400rpm>
-30,
4000rpm> -30, 4600rpm> -30, 5200rpm> -30, 5800rpm> -30,
6400rpm> -30,
7000rpm> -30, 7600rpm> -30; high settings at -30
across the same 12 rpm
points.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 18:52:17 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Big Brother is listening
> I agree completely. Three of us ran the hell out of the VR-4
this
> past Sunday on the Sears Point (Infineon) track in the NASCAR
Winston
> Cup configuration, which includes "The Chute" (in up to
90-degree
> temps). The "Blue Beast" never even broke a
sweat. All we were doing
> was running the car as it was designed -
which IS "designed for
> racing". That's what the "O" in "GTO"
stands for - "Omologato" =
> "Homologated for Racing", which means that
the car was submitted to
> the FIA for approval, that it conforms to
established track
- ---
..and did you know that you can make your penis
200% larger with a pill?
bad joke..same concept. Just because they -may- have
submitted..marketting.
> standards for some 100+ components. On Sunday, all of us passed
the
> usual number of Vipers, Vettes and Porsches... pretty much all of
the
> "street" cars and even a few of the race-prepped cars, as we
usually
> do. The car ran all day, as contrasted to certain Z-06
Vettes :-)
> which had to be retired early... (eh, Geoff?).
LOL!
- ---
Lesse..so far I've wasted $50 in rotors, and you ate up the
stealth motor and two turbos? I'm still winning. :)
I know you know this..but since the cars most of us pass are driven by
people that may be less experienced..or more in tune to needing to drive it home
than we are..not a fair comparison. That's what starts the "kill" threads
on message boards. I'm sure some Pro7 guy is out there foaming over how he
passed me in the Z. So what..I haven't driven the car twice ever..on the
same tires. I fear things, fear is good.
> Open tracking is all about smoothness and control through the turns
at
> high speed. The only abuse is to the tires and brakes, since
our
> beefy suspensions are made to take a drift at 120mph, and our
engines
> are made to run safely
- ---
How are things made to take
a drift?
------------------------------
At 04:36 PM 5/27/03 -0700, Bob Forrest wrote:
>> I don't abuse my
tranny or clutch on road courses. No launches, no
>>
speed
>shifts,
>I agree completely.
What? You agree with ME!!??
Holy mackerel. Somebody take note of this
historical occasion.
Next thing you know, Flash will agree with me. Right
after California falls into the sea.
Rich
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 19:06:50 -0700
From: John Sheehan <
johns@kyso.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Big
Brother is listening
In the April issue of SCCA's Fasttrack News under Touring T2 was the
following:
"Item 1. Based on the positive feedback we have been receiving on the
concept of classifying AWD and forced induction cars in the Touring
category we are recommending that Subaru WRX and Audi TT Coupe be
classified in T2 effective 1/1/04. The restrictors that these cars will
be required to run are still being developed and will be announced when
finalized. We will continue to review other cars as their specifications
are received for future classification consideration."
Positive feed back ?, or just listening for revenue?
John
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#165
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