Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, May 22
2003 Volume 02 : Number 161
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Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 15:22:53 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Head Bolts
The bolts are not torque to yield so they can be used again assuming that
they were not over torqued and damaged. ARP has not seen fit to make a generic
set for our cars --- GT-Pro is having them [ ARP ] build a proprietary set of
head studs that he sells for about $300. I'm not sure if it's the new 220
material or not, if not there's not much use in changing since the stock bolts
are about the same tensile strength as the softer ARP studs. Studs do have
advantages over bolts even at the same strength.
Someone said ARP did add a set of main bolts for the 6G72 block.
Jim berry
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 15:43:18 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: dashboard vents and door rubber trim
> The trim keeps coming up in the corner every time the
> window
goes up and down and is really irritating. Do I
> have to pull the door
panel off to do it?
I had this problem on my VR-4. I bought a new piece of
weatherstripping for $30 from the dealer and it took about 20 minutes to
install. The door panels are really easy to remove.
> Does the dash really have to be pulled to change the vents.
The general consensus is yes. I believe some people have managed to
do it while the windshield was removed. It might actually be cheaper to do
it that way rather than pull the dash if that method is successful.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 11:10:35 -0400
From: "Dunkin" <
dunkin@netcarrier.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Timing Cover Gasket Seals....
I used super glue. A couple of dabs every
few inches. Actually I've heard that some people had those damn things
fall into the timing belt if not secured in well. Hopefully the super glue
will hold. I'm sure others may have better suggestions. Replace the
old ones if you can. You can get them from Mitsubishi, couple of bux for a
pack of them. Just be sure they are glued in well, wouldn't want them
falling in around your timing belt. The old ones I think tend to get hard, the
new ones will be soft like foam.
Darius
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 11:16:21 -0400
From: "Dunkin" <
dunkin@netcarrier.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Window Leaks .....
I'm sure others have had this
problem!@#$%??? You go to the car wash and
realize your arm is wet. Drivers side window seal at the top leaks. Not to
mention air coming in gets kind of annoying when driving with the window
shut. Any kind of replacement or fixes?? Do I have to replace the
whole rubber seal all around the top of the car where the window shuts.
Probably expensive....?
Thankx,
Darius
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 20:15:21 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Timing Cover Gasket Seals....
RTV should work --- it holds up to heat and it's pliable.
The issue with the gaskets in the timing belt was that old gaskets get
almost rock hard and fall into the timing belt and cause the belt to skip.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Geez, I hope this isn't off topic...
It's $50 from 9 am to sundown, for all the laps you can stand. No rules, no
pesky officials, no officious track <word removed from Archived post>, and
probably nobody on track except for 8-10 cars from Cedar Rapids until about 3
pm, when the local cars start showing up. The track will have corner workers to
keep things safe.
Still, we essentially will have THE TRACK TO OURSELVES!
I'll be showing a couple of Stealth/3000GT novices the way around and (most
important) teaching them how to make their brakes last. Be happy to add more
novices to my "class" if you want to give it a try.
Any Stealth/3000GTs want to come out and play? Might be a good warmup for
the national event in St. Louis a month later.
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 00:33:50 -0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Aiming for better steering
Ok first of all I'm an idiot when it comes to anything that has to do with
turning. I have no idea what the difference is between camber and toe or what
dampening does or anything like that. Now that I have that out of the way,
someone point me where I need to go. I want to learn what setting negative
camber on the rear will do for the steering, what about stiffening the front,
does that lead to understeer or oversteer, what the hell is a sway bar, and many
other questions such as those? If you know of a website that answers these
questions and more lemme have the link please :) thanks, Donald Ashby '93 3000GT
VR-4 (RIP) New beast on the way! "Don't drink and park, accidents cause
people!"
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 23:46:35 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: dashboard vents and door rubber trim
I thought for sure that I'd seen a website from one of the members here
about a year ago that documented a way to rip them out and put in new ones with
silicone glue stuff instead of using screws (WITHOUT removing Dash OR
Windshield). Was supposed to be better because it would allow the plastic
to "give" a little bit on the arc shape. I looked through my favorites for
the link, but couldn't find it.
Someone know what website I'm talking about?
Hope that was of some help,
- -Erik
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 00:19:45 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
WAS Erratic Idle Problem NOW turning engine backwards
I've used this method many times and the belt never broke in the process.
Like I said... use two cams, not one. I'm not sure about that Honda motor,
but I've seen overstock timing belts used to extricate stuck cars before.
However, I obviously can't guarantee anything... so to each his own.
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 09:20:12 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Aiming for better steering
Don,
I'd recommend you to take something like a "Racers School" where you learn
how the pros drive on the circle tracks. With the theory first and the
training in your or another car (the best is to use different cars) you'll
achieve the feeling for the car and its behaviour. This are the basics
where you enable yourself to analyze what the car needs. After that camber,
sway bars, dampening and other suspension issues will make sense for
you.
Just my personal experience :-)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 09:57:34 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: OT : 3000GT "logo" or font needed
Guys, thanks for all the emails I got. The font that comes closest to the
3000GT badge at the rear bumper is the Denmark font. But unfortunately, it
is still not the right font of the 3000GT lettering. I guess it is
something like the a vertically compressed version of the Denmark font as
the letters are more fat at the top and the bottom.
I may try to take a pic of it and then cut it out of the pic or buy the
badge and put it onto the scanner. The later version is a bit expensive as
Mitsu wants to have $32 for the lettering ... ouch.
Does anybody have a plain close up pic of the 3000GT badge ?
------------------------------
Weirdest thing happened today.
With no prior problems, today I discovered a small puddle of coolant that
had leaked from my car (92 VR-4). It was probably about one cup in all. I
saw it dripping from the bottom of the car, but I really couldn't tell where it
was coming from. I decided I'd better drive it home and switch to another
form of transportation for the rest of the day. When I got home, I let the
car idle in the driveway for a while and looked for leaks. Couldn't see
any and, at this point, the car had stopped dripping fluid all together. Checked
the reservoir and it was in the safe zone. Temp gauge always read
normal.
What happened?
------------------------------
:-)
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 06:30:07 -0500
From: "Charles J. Williams" <
charlesw72@houston.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Keyless Entry Parts
Both of my keyless entry's are missing the small screw and o-ring.
Does anybody have old ones that they'd be willing to part with? Do I have
to buy new ones?
Today my car is going to roll over 100,000 miles. I've had the car
since it was new and have put almost all of the miles on it. You couldn't
have asked for a more reliable car. I've learned a lot from reading all
the messages off this list. I'm not much of a poster but I read almost all
of them. Thanks for all the good information. Wonder if I can get another
100,000 out of her?
Have a good weekend.
Charles Williams
95 Stealth R/T Jet Black
Katy, TX
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 16:15:34 +0200
From: "Gebelius Mats" <
Mats.Gebelius@dotcom.se>
Subject:
Team3S: Need a new turning light.
Hi
I need a new turning light to my -94 Stealth RT/TT.
While parked,
someone has hit my car and cracked my left front turning light, plus some
scraping to the paint. Since they don't sell Stealth in Sweden, I need to order
it from US or Canada. I called the dealer in Montreal/Canada who sold us the
car, and he wants 400$ Canadian plus tax. I find that quite steep for the
plastic glass. Or does it really cost that much?
Does anyone know where to get it cheaper?
/Mats Gebelius
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 07:27:36 -0700
From: "Andy" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Need a new turning light.
If used is acceptable (I have found it usually is for the kind of thing you
are looking for), then check on
www.car-parts.com
You can probably pick up your part at a very good price.
Andy
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 11:02:28 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need a new turning light.
Not sure if this is the right part, but it sells for about $50 US on
partznet.com. See Part No. MR124513. Partznet says this part number
is correct for 1994 to 1998 model years, but CAPS references only mid-year 1994
models.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 08:06:04 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Coolant leak
You're sure it's coolant and not water from the AC evaporator ???
If it's coolant it may have come from the overflow --- you'll just have to
keep an eye on temperature and levels for a while.
Jim Berry
==================================================
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 08:17:00 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Need a new turning light.
You've gotta watch those model year numbers --- CAPS uses build date while
most vendors use model year. Entering your VIN in caps should give you the right
part.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 11:25:16 -0400
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Need a new turning light.
I don't know if it fits, but I have a non-used (open box, but
never
installed) right turn light from a '95 vr4 that I would be more than
happy to part with...
Alex
'95 Vr4
------------------------------
The leak was toward the front of the car, on the left as you face the front
of the car. I'm thinking that it had to be the overflow. I just
don't know why it would have done that just that one time. I'll keep an
eye on it and post back any further developments.
The car has 126K miles on it and, other than this "leak", it has no
problems. I've only had it for a couple of months. I'm planning to
take it in for the 60K service soon, as I don't know what the maintenance
history is.
Bob Guirlinger
------------------------------
At 11:40 AM 5/22/03 -0400, Bob G wrote:
>The leak was toward the
front of the car, on the left as you face the
>front of the car.
I'm thinking that it had to be the overflow.
If it was on the driver's side (right front), then it would have been the
water pump.
Rich
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 11:39:19 -0500
From: "John C. Davidson" <
jd@edge-software.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Window Leaks... (regulator fix)
There is a complete window adjustment procedure in the service manual
(which, if
you don't have, you should get). This should be done, just
to make sure
everything is in spec., but in my case it didn't eliminate the
problem.
However, I did notice that when I finally got around to fixing my window
regulators (the right way), the problem was completely eliminated. My
guess is
the excess flex that the window regulator's upper pulley mount had
allowed over
the years caused the window to move around too much and not
seal properly.
Anyone with window regulator issues should check out the 'how to' page I
made
for fixing them. For that matter, even those who don't have problem yet
should
check it out. (Having owned 3 of these things, trust me... if you
keep the car
long enough, you *will* have problems.) I recommend the
"repair" just as much
for those who's regulators are still working... as a
preventative measure to
improve upon the stock piece and re-enforce the
part.
Good luck.
-JD
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 10:38:49 -0700
From: "Mosher, David" <
dmosher@ea.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Coolant leak
I had the same thing happen with my 92VR4. This happened a couple of times
before my water pump went out; keep an eye on it.
David Mosher
92 White Pearl VR4 202K
David Mosher
Digital Graphic Artist Bond 3
Electronic
Arts
650-628-7414
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 10:51:39 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: A/D Converter?
I need an Analog/Digital Converter and, while I could design something to
do what I need, I figure somebody's gotta have already made it in a nice
convenient package that I could order for a few bucks. Anyone know where I
could find the following?
I'd like a chip/circuit that would take a 0-5V analog input and provide
drivers for a 10-segment (or more than 10) LED bar graph. As in:
0-0.5V would light the first LED, 0.5-1.0V would light the second
LED....... 4.5-5V would light the 10th LED. I guess the input
doesn't have to be 0-5V as I can easily tune the input range to be anything less
than that, so a chip that expects 0-1V on the input would work, too. Thus
the driver that most LED A/F gauges use would probably work...
Ideas? Part Numbers?
In case anyone cares, what I want to make is a bar-graph that displays
throttle position and mount it on my dash when I go to the track. I'd make
it big/bright enough to be visible in my in-car video, and my intention is to be
able to learn more about my driving skills (or lack thereof) by reviewing the
videos. Kinda like the stuff they use at Skip Barber, only less high-tech
:-)
------------------------------
Just wanted to let you all know that I have a set of polished radiator
brackets on eBay for sale if anyone is interested. I will have more parts later,
after I tackle the 60k service. Feel free to email for more info.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 11:23:32 -0700
From: "James Mutton" <
james@playstream.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: A/D Converter?
National Semiconductor LM3914 is perfectly suited to this task, some
soldering but no real circuit design needed to support the app you're talking
about.
About $3 from digikey.
- -James
95 Green VR4
Not
stock
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 14:26:47 -0500
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need a
new turning light.
Another option would be to put the '99 turn signals on... They fit right up
with no problems, and look way better in my opinion. You can get them for $55 a
piece from Conicelli.
-b
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 16:10:23 -0400
From: "Trevor Paciotti" <
sam_or_i@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Team 3s: ECS Wiring Connection.
I have taken apart the dust cover (that rubber cap) for the strut tower. I
have that infamous 'flashing green Tour Sport' light problem. I heard that
it's usually due to broken wires under these rubber caps. I opened up the
passenger side cover and found 2 broken wires, none broken on the driver's
side. I'm wondering whereabouts (or how) I should go to find the part(s) to
fix this problem. Is there somewhere on the net I can look up parts numbers
and such? Any tips on the situation would be most helpful.
Trevor Paciotti
91 Dodge Stealth R/T TT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 19:13:48 -0400
From: Vedran <
1994TT@comcast.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Taking drivers seat out???
My friend has a 97 VR-4 and he is striping the car down completely.
He pulled the engine out and he is doing interior now. He can not get the
drivers seat out because it's powered. Is it possible to manually, without
power, take the drivers seat out.
Thanks
Ved
94 yellow TT.
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#161
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