Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, May 21
2003 Volume 02 : Number 160
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Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 16:00:31 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@spamcop.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: what happened to 3sxperformance website
Perhaps the address changed from what you have. Their site
works.
I hear they now sell the polyurethane motor mounts with two screws in one
of them to prevent it from "walking" out of the mount. I have pictures of
mine as well as the fix (they were very generous in working with me to resolve
the problem). I will get the page finished and post it here. They
now fix the problems before shipping out the mounts so you shouldn't have to
worry about it but if anyone has motor mounts from 3SX that do not have a
"stake" in the driver side front motor mount then contact them or let me know
and I'll show you my pictures and webpage about it.
I highly recommend the poly motor mounts. It will add more vibration
and resonance to the car's cockpit and you can feel it through the steering
wheel and seat but I feel this is a positive change. Also, response time
is faster from throttle application since the motor does not need to shift in
its mounts. I have video of my engine starting and the motor does not move
(nor does it move when shut off). I believe the stock mounts allow the
motor to "shift" when starting and stopping and on throttle application.
- --Flash!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 16:42:49 -0400
From:
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.comSubject:
Team3S: re:Erratic Idle Problem.....Problem Solved
Thanks for all the input. The last 60K service was done at 116K miles, and
also did the water pump and camshaft bearings then, too. The car has 156K miles
on it now, and is my daily driver. So I went ahead and ordered a belt and
tensioner, and will install them hopefully soon. I'll check out the pulleys
while I'm in there. The only thing that appears to be "off" is the crankshaft
timing, and I also had to retard the ignition timing to compensate. But the car
actually seems to run better than ever right now! And the datalogs show it! It
idles very smoothly and at WOT it runs like a scalded dog! Weird.
Thanks again.
Jeff W.
Belleville, MI
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 17:14:59 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@spamcop.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Fix for 3SX Performance polyurethane motor mounts that "walks"
Here is my motor mount that "walked" out of its mount by 3/4" that I had to
repair. I will get a picture of the fixed motor mount but this gives a
step-by-step process to removing the motor mount and pressing the polyurethane
back in place.
- --Flash!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 17:18:32 -0400
From: "Planet" <
planet.j@sympatico.ca>
Subject:
Team3S: Looking for Gaskets
Hello all, I'm about to do a spark plug change on my 92 stealth SOHC. I'm
having lots of problems trying to get plenum/throttle body gaskets. Local shops
even dealer said it could take months to get. Does anyone have any on hand. I
will gladly pay for them and shipping.
Thanks
Jason
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 17:28:41 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Looking for Gaskets
You can probably get it off Partznet within days. Part No. is
MD149539
------------------------------
You do realize that you don't have to remove the plenum just to change the
spark plugs on a SOHC engine, right? This is required on the DOHC, but its much,
much simpler changing plugs on a SOHC. Just reach behind the engine with a short
extension and take 'em right out. Done mine twice over the years and my plenum
has never been off.
Joe
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 19:09:10 -0400
From: "Planet" <
planet.j@sympatico.ca>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Looking for Gaskets
I feel like such an idiot :)
Thanks, just changed them. The gap in the old ones were 2mm. :( hehe. What
differences would old spark plugs be to some new ones with the proper gap?
Thanks
Jay
------------------------------
I am trying to put a set of stock fog lights on my 92 Stealth and am having
a hard time locating the mounting brackets. The dealer can get them for me for a
good price, so I have looked for stealth's in the local junkyards but have had
no luck. Any help would be welcomed.
Thanks Bryan
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 19:48:03 -0600
From: Fraser Family <
b-mfraser@shaw.ca>
Subject: Team3S:
help with electronic boost controller install
Hello All,
I just got a used GReddy PRofec fuzzy logic boost controller
from a fellow member, and I'm about to install it, but I have some questions
first. The installation manual doesn't cover twin turbos, so I'm making the
assumption that the vacuum line that goes to the wastegate must be split so that
it goes to both. Now, in doing this, should I be worried about the length of the
vacuum lines? Do they need to be exactly the same length after the split?
Anything special I should know about that? The other question is that the
installation manual mentions that to run the BC, some form of fuel pressure
regulation other than stock is required. It sounds like an adjustable regulator,
but I've never heard of anyone needing this when adding a BC to our cars. And if
I do need one, how do I know how to adjust it properly? Any help with this
would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Sean Fraser
92 R/T TT
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 May 2003 20:33:36 -0700 (PDT)
From:
g2write@newsguy.comSubject: Team3S:
crash and burn
Thursday, a guy lost control of his truck trying to avoid a deer and caused
my car to go into a skid. I went backward into the ditch at about
75mph. I kept it fairly strait going down the steep ditch but when the
drivers side tires blew the car (92 TT Stealth) flipped on its side and slid for
another thirty feet or so before falling back on its wheels. Is there anything I
should check before trying to start the car or anything I should check before
trying to put it in gear and move it? I don't think its totaled and I
don't want to cause more damage than there all ready is. Any insight is
appreciated. Both drivers side rims were bent pretty bad but I have a
couple of spares that will work until I get a new set. There was a little
oily liquid on the bed of the tow truck but I'm not sure if it was from my car.
It was an expensive 10 second ride--expensive lesson. I think I'll keep
full coverage on it next time.
Gary.
PS. The guy got away before
anyone could get a plate number but the cops have a description of the
truck. Keep your fingers crossed.
------------------------------
Back up..he lost control..how did you get into a skid?
- ---
Now offering replacement
Toyota/Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Porsche/SAAB/Volvo parts Where do you buy YOUR brakes
from?
orders@speedtoys.com Maybe
I can help..asking is free. :) "If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 08:14:05 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need Fog Light Brackets
Partznet. $12.50 each. Part Nos. MB622761 and 762.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 08:20:18 -0400
From: "Williams, Tommy F" <
WilliamsTF@bernstein.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Anyone running a Unichip attachment to ECU?
I'm very interested in this product and was wondering if any of you have
this.
also, if anyone needs a passenger side fog lamp for a 1st gen 3kgt I have
one in excellent condition. All you need to do is make an offer for it.
Tommy
-
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 07:11:42 -0700
From: Andy <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: crash and burn
You may have coverage under your own policy if it has uninsured motorist
coverage included. You sound like this might not be the case, but you
should check. In many states this coverage is mandatory unless expressly
waived by the insured.
Andy
------------------------------
1. I "think" you are right about the plumbing - you install a tee in the
vacuum line that comes from the wastegate solenoid on the firewall. Length
doesn't matter. What you need to worry about is keeping the lines away from the
hot area above the rear turbo heat shield.
2. You will not need to modify the fuel pressure regulator or add a
higher volume fuel pump or go to higher flow fuel injectors as long as you keep
the boost pressure at 15 psi max. You will probably want to regap your
spark plugs to 0.034" to prevent spark blowout at high speed and WOT.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 11:36:10 -0400
From: "Larry Leonard" <
larry@brassringfarm.org>
Subject:
Team3S: Engine Temp Gage Flakiness
Hi there,
Was having a nice normal drive into the office in my 96 3000GT
SL
(unmodified) when the engine temp gage suddenly pegged to the H.
After
pushing my eyes back into their sockets I watched the needle kind of
move all over the place from mid to H, sometimes fast, sometimes slow,
sometimes sticking at mid, sometimes pegs past H - you get the
picture.
I pulled over, checked that I had coolant, that the radiator was
flowing, that the fans kicked in (had to turn on the AC for this - is
there another to cycle the fans?), and that the cap/hoses/radiator did
not seem ungodly hot.
Everything seemed pretty normal, but the needle wackiness came and went
the rest of the trip in.
So, I am thinking either the sending unit or its ground have gone belly
up. Can anyone point me to the location of these items to verify and
save me a trip to the shop for such a simple repair?
Anyone else have a different diagnosis?
BTW, does anything else use the feedback from the temp sending unit to
affect the operation of the engine or the fans, for example? Or does
it
just go to the gage?
- --Larry
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 10:38:21 -0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Engine Temp Gage Flakiness
Thermostat sticking maybe?
------------------------------
This is likely a radiator fan failure. The other fan is the condenser
fan that came on when you turned on the ac. If your engine was hot and the
radiator and was not running you have one of four problems.
1. Resistor failure. This is common. You fix it by
replacing the ceramic resistor on the fan motor. 2. Corroded connection on
the wiring harness connector on the passenger side at the front of the engine
bay between the radiator and overflow reservoir. This is a more common
problem with 1t gen than 2nd gen because of a change in the connector. 3.
Failed temperature sensor on the radiator that triggers the fan motor. 4.
Failed relays that run the fan. There are two, one for low speed one for
high speed, both in the box at the passenger side front of engine bay. You
can actually test the radiator fan by removing either relay, removing the
plastic cover from the relay, plugging it back in, and manually pushing the
contacts together. The fan should start EVEN with the key turned
OFF. If it doesn't, one of the first three things is wrong.
Of course the motor itself can be bad, but I haven't seen one crap out
yet. Does the fan spin when you turn it by hand (engine off and cold
please!)?
Did you lose coolant? Look for evidence of a leak around where
the top radiator hose connects to the thermostat housing. It only leaks there
when the thermostat is open, and when you stop to look it closes and stops
leaking. Tough to catch.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 09:28:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andrew Wert <
mrstealth13@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Head Bolts
I am rebuilding a first generation DOHC non-turbo
engine and I am ready
to put the heads back on but
before I do I need to know if the head bolts
are
yielding or not? Do I need to buy new head bolts or
can I just
use the same head bolts that were on it? I
checked the manuals and I
haven't been able to find
anything about it.
Thank you,
Andrew
------------------------------
Go ARP while yer there..just one of those things..
- ---
Now offering replacement
Toyota/Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Porsche/SAAB/Volvo parts Where do you buy YOUR brakes
from?
orders@speedtoys.com Maybe
I can help..asking is free. :) "If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 10:35:58 -0700
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: Team3S:
RE: Teams: Head Bolts
Technically there is nothing wrong with reusing them. They are a reusable
part. However examine the heads of the bolts closely and make sure that there is
no damage there that will prevent you from taking them off again. I don't know
how much aftermarket bolts are, but if its not too much, I guess it would be
"one of those things" that you might as well replace...
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 10:42:39 -0700
From: "John A. Tabler" <
jtabler@summitmicro.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: crash and burn
Gary,
I had a pothole induced blowout that resulted in an accident that
was
not as dramatic as the one you have described. It was similar:
long
slide, car off road, steep embankment. My car stayed upright,
however.
There was more damage than just some paint scratches.
Don't kid
yourself. Take your car to a qualified expert, as
there is going to be
frame and suspension damage that will not be evident
upon a casual
inspection. Insurance paid out more than 6K for
that repair. JAT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 11:06:04 -0700
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: crash and burn
I had a similar thing happen a while back too. It was actually my father
that borrowed my car. Had a rear tire blowout which caused an oncoming truck to
swerve into his lane and force him off the road. Again went down a steep
embankment. In my case the damage was a cracked front bumper cover, rear bumper
cover, pass side rocker panel, pass side intercooler and pass side rear wheel
hub. All in all after painting this seemingly minor damage came out to about
$5000.
Far as frame damage, you can take to a shop and for a few bucks ($150-300)
get them to check it on their machine. Suspension can be messed up as well but
not making the car undrivable. Get full alignment and balance done! Alignment
will be all messed up after something like that anyway and getting alignment and
balance done will force any major suspension problems to show themselves.
Another thing is that the shop missed my bent hub twice. Reason being, they
checked balance of wheels and alignment of a non-moving assembly. To check for
this yourself, jack the car off the ground, start it and put it in gear with all
4 spinning in the air. Make sure nothing wobbles. OBVIOUSLY have the car VERY
VERY secure up on VERY STURDY jack stands (I used large logs) so that vibration
of a running car does not shake it off the stands and sends it into a
wall.
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 May 2003 14:52:16 -0500
From: "Darlene Madden" <
dmadden@selectis.com>
Subject:
Team3S: dashboard vents and door rubber trim
Does anyone know how to change the dashboard vents and the trim on the
inside of both doors between the window? The trim keeps coming up in the corner
every time the window goes up and down and is really irritating. Do I have to
pull the door panel off to do it? Does the dash really have to be pulled to
change the vents. I never know when to believe these repair shops. Thanks for
the help. Darlene Madden 93 Stealth ES
------------------------------
Well, I finally have all the parts to do the timing belt service, and of
course it's now raining and is in the forecast for the new few days.
Anyway, I was looking at the timing cover gaskets, and was wondering what
keeps them in place ? Some of the pieces are really small, an inch or so
long.
Any help will be appreciated. Thanks
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#160
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