Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, May 19
2003 Volume 02 : Number 158
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 15:34:17 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
seemingly stupid 60k service question
In case someone hasn't mentioned this yet, buy yourself a set of Ziploc
bags if you don't already have them. Don't be lazy about this since it
will waste you a lot of time later on. The cheap method (if you're really
in a hurry to get started) is to get some white pieces of paper, some tape, and
a pen. Tape the bolts to the paper and describe where they came from
underneath...
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 16:03:24 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S: CPS
and 60k service... important info! (long)
So I took the lower timing cover off and I found a severely cracked crank
position sensor. Yes, that oscilloscope was right. Bad CPS. Also, my
timing belt jumped time... AGAIN. Very annoying. To fix it, I ripped
the driver side of the engine bay apart as required for 60k service. I
found pieces of timing cover gasket and one shot water pump bearing from way
long ago lying in the timing sprocket area. The water pump bearing fit
nicely in the crack that was made in the crank position sensor. I failed
to find it when my did my 60k service about 8 months ago, and it was just
bouncing around, eating up my timing belt. 7300 rpm in turn three over at the
Sacramento cup autocross runs was enough to let that water pump bearing bounce
the wrong direction... =(
My timing slipped by two teeth on the front bank intake cam, and I saw cuts
in my belt again. I replaced the timing belt and the crank position
sensor. She fired up fine on all six cylinders. I haven't compression
tested yet, but I never heard any valve-piston contact noise so I might not even
bother.
Moral of the story?? Be careful with those timing cover
gaskets. I replaced them sure enough... 8,000 miles ago. However, I used
some of the permatex brand red perma-gasket spray as a sealant/adhesive to keep
the new timing cover gaskets on. This is NOT a good adhesive. A good
high-temp adhesive must be used in order to hold those gaskets on to their
guides on the covers, because otherwise they WILL fall into your timing area and
could cause your belt to slip (was it Tyson who experienced this last?) Search
the archives for more info related to the danger of brittle timing cover
gaskets.
I don't even trust those flimsy, shaky timing gaskets anymore, so I just
took the advice of a close friend and used high-temp silicone RTV on my timing
covers instead. Maybe we should all do this?
Furthermore, be very meticulous about checking the timing area before
closing it up after the 60k service. Bring out the dual 500-watt halogen
spotlight...buy one if you don't have it. Shake your engine and car when
the timing area is open. Don't miss a thing! Get the gunk cleaned with
some brake parts cleaner. Double check it My timing has slipped twice and I
seriously cannot believe how lucky I'm getting with this car.
refer to "crankshaft position sensor looks bad" for more info on this
thread....
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 16:00:12 -0700
From: Andy <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: CPS and 60k service... important info! (long)
That light is actually a great point Riyan. I once lost a socket
somewhere into the area around my starter and the only way I finally found it
was one of those rechargeable million candlepower lights. It really put
the light way back into all the cracks and crevices. Good idea and well
worth pointing out.
Andy
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 16:27:53 -0700 (PDT)
From:
chfmn@webtv.net (Walter Womack)
Subject:
Team3S: New Member
I'm not sure that the first message was sent, so, I'll try again. With no
warning, every now and then, my brake pedal goes hard as a rock but seconds
later it is fine again. It's fine to be able to go really fast, but!! Has anyone
else experienced this problem and knows the solution or do I have to pay a brake
shop 3hrs labor to determine such? 92 Dodge Stealth R/T TT AWD. If I am
just being intrusive please respond and let me know,.
442
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 01:33:50 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: OT : 3000GT "logo" or font needed
Dear members,
I'm in the need for the 3000GT logo or the front to create the lettering in
high resolution. Please email me privately with a link or if you already have
something.
Thanks in advance
Roger
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 01:58:28 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: My Xenon (HID) experience !
Hello members
Like many of us I bought some so called Xenon 9006 bulbs (called HB4
in
Europe) with 90 Watts and the result was simply nothing. They burnt trough
within two weeks and the light was nothing.
A few months a go I started to create and install a real Xenon kit for our
cars. Here in Europe such kits are available for less than 200 Dollars and even
less if you put the stuff together. Maybe many of you know that the German cars
that come with xenon lights (some also call them HID lights) use the so called
D2 type of socket bulbs (almost 98%). Such a bulb runs for only about $35 and
therefore I thought that it is a good idea to build one of such bulbs into a
9006 socket bulb for my 96 3000GT. In fact some kits sold at eBay and other
places carry such adapted bulbs. The key is that the D2R or D2S bulbs have a
specific connector where the starter directly sits on it and therefore must be
adapted to the HB4 housing. The starter within the connector is a big advantage
of the Hella Ballasts and installation is a breeze with them as our stock bulb
connector goes directly into the ballast and only one cable to the bulb must be
installed.
Well, I managed it to incorporate a D2 bulb into a 9006 housing, installed
it and connected the ballast. After I switched on the light, the result was ...
simply horrible !! The pattern was absolutely wrong and the light by far what it
was supposed to be. To say it in short, the small part of a real Xenon bulb that
emits the light was placed wrong within the housing of the projector light and
therefore the projected beam was totally wrong. When I glued in the bulb into
the 9006 socked, I did not check the position of the light emitting source
compared to the wolfram wire within the normal 9006 bulb. In fact, it was
impossible to get it into the right place. Project abandoned.
I finally got two a 9006 Xenon (HID) bulb from a kit that is sold here in
Europe. Unfortunately they do not carry the same D2 connector and therefore an
external starter was needed beside of the ballast. But the result was very, very
good. Even with a 4300k bulb the projected light seems to be 10 times better
than the original lights. It's not blueish but simply damn white. Also no
problem for the cars that are approaching me as the Z pattern stayed absolutely
the same. Before installing the bulbs I checked them with a 9006 and indeed the
emitting source was at the exact same position. Only with this, a very good
result can be expected from installing a HID Xenon system into your car. And I
will never ever run the car without that great light.
For the 1st gen users, there are H4 bulbs available that already have the
D2 socket. These 4300k bulbs from Osram are made for the reflective housings of
the style like our pop-ups and work very good. I got two sets of these bulbs for
a cheap price on eBay but don't know if they are still available. The additional
bulbs should be gotten for less than $100 what results in a real cheap and good
solution.
So stay away from some sellers that try to sell the "adapted" version of
such bulbs for 9006 or H4. You may have then a real HID but the light emitted is
even worse compared to the stock one.
------------------------------
Sounds like maybe a piston in a caliper is sticking open intermittently.
But we need more information:
Is it hard like you just pumped up the brakes, or hard like
I'm-stuck-and-won't-move?
Does the pedal get hard immediately AFTER you just braked?
Does the car stop when the pedal is hard? Or just coast along no matter how
hard you push on the pedal?
How do you get it stop being like a rock? Does it just go away, or does it
clear up when you push on the pedal?
Rich
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 16:59:26 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
New Member
Sounds like it could a vacuum boost problem --- there is a set of vacuum
lines, a check valve and a reservoir for the brake booster, if you're not
getting the proper assist the brake pedal is very hard to push. Try pushing your
brake pedal with the car off, continue pushing and start the car --- the pedal
should go from rock hard to normal. You can also test it while driving but
that's a bit tricky and/or hazardous. Darren Schilberg found that while
left foot braking you can lose the vacuum boost.
Jim Berry
===============================================
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 07:12:54 -0500
From: "joelpa" <
joelpa@famvid.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Lash Adjuster problem
Timing marks were OK. I removed, inspected and reinstalled the exhaust
cam.
The lash adjusters are fully extended and force the valves open
regardless
of what position the cam is in. Any thoughts on cause?
Joel
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 08:44:43 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: seemingly stupid 60k service question
Great advice! Alternatively, if you have about $10 to spare, use one
of those cheap plastic garage organizers with the 50 or so drawers in it. Use
masking tape to label the drawer. This keeps everything in one central
location and prevents you from accidentally throwing something away when your
doing a little cleaning up.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 08:45:33 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: New Member
Sounds like a vacuum leak to the brake booster. Or the brake booster
itself is going to lunch.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 08:45:17 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: My Xenon (HID) experience !
Thank you for backing up what I have been saying for while, be very careful
what kit the US folks buy. You need the right style bulb, Roger do you
remember if the bulb you originally tried to use was a D or an S?
It would allow us to figure out which one needs to be used in the 94-99
cars to allow the proper light pattern.
Russ F
CT
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 08:51:21 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: My Xenon (HID) experience !
I suppose this is as good a time as any to alert members that are thinking
of doing an HID Xenon conversion that such conversions are illegal for street
use in the US. The primary reason is that aftermarket HID conversions are
not equipped with the special power cut-off circuits that are included in
factory units. The cutoff is required so that if you are ever in an
accident, the rescue response team can cut the power to the units so they don't
get electrocuted by the extremely high voltage required to power an HID
bulb. This kept me from doing an HID conversion in my cars.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 09:02:53 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: My Xenon (HID) experience !
Joe are you talking about the ballast discharge circuits? If so I am
aware of the newest kits made by Phillips do include this additional wire
harness and switch that allow rescue teams to discharge the ballasts.
Let me see if I can find out about availability and cost.....
Russ
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 15:21:17 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: My Xenon (HID) experience !
Actually I got a real 9006 (HB4) bulb and not a D2S or D2R bulb that could
only be fitted into a HB socket what results in the bad pattern. I also got
a pair of 7000k 9006 from Misterjung.com for $170 + s/h the pair.
I'm currently doing a ballast conversion as the Hella ballasts are pretty
cheap but the attached cable doesn't work with the 9006 Xenon HID
bulbs
Regarding the danger of touching, I installed the ballast on the side of
the light assembly (will take some pics when I got the batt for my digicam)
and touching it is not possible. Even more if one is wearing gloves (what
the rescue team do) there is no risk of getting hurt. I for my self touched
the bulb and the wires leading to it when the bulbs have been ignited with
my uncovered hands and I did not felt anything. But our government only
allows them if the car is equipped with an automatic light distance control
(motorized automatic height setting) and headlight washing system. These
are necessary to make sure that the lights do not blind anyone than comes
into your direction. Also the washing system is necessary as dirt on the
headlights splitters the emitting of the light and again can blind others.
Well, my headlight washers currently do not work and no one flashed me yet
;-)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 09:21:46 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: My Xenon (HID) experience !
Yes, that's exactly what I'm talking about. Thanks!
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 09:52:29 -0400
From:
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.comSubject:
Team3S: RE: Problem with Erratic Idle...Problem Solved!
Last week, I sent a post inquiring as to why my engine had started to idle
erratically just after I had replaced the clutch, injectors, and TB gasket.
After exhausting all possibilities suggested, I finally checked the base
ignition timing and found that it was advanced 22 degrees BTDC! So I reset it to
7 degrees BTDC, and now it idles smoother and runs stronger than I can remember
in a looooong time. The subsequent datalogs looked very good too.
However, upon further investigation, I also found that the timing belt
appears to have slipped. While all 4 cams are correctly aligned on their marks,
the crankshaft is advanced 20 degrees, or 2 teeth on the crankshaft sprocket.
And likewise, if I align the crankshaft timing mark at TDC, each camshaft
sprocket is advanced one tooth. The only thing I can figure is that the belt
slipped on the crank while I was manually turning the crank during the tranny
installation (just like I've done many times before!). I had a problem a
few months ago with slack appearing in the belt, depending on how the camshafts
came to rest after the engine stopped running, and one of the camshafts actually
jumped a few teeth while I was messing around with it. So I figure either the
belt has stretched or the tensioner is not right.
Both the belt and tensioner have 40K miles on them, and I've been convinced
to go ahead and replace them so the belt won't slip again. But I'm amazed at how
well the car performs the way it is! Should I expect it to run even better
once I get the timing marks back in line?
Thanks to all who responded to my previous plea for help.
Jeff W.
>Wow, Jeff, you covered just about everything I was going to
mention:
>* TB
Gasket on backwards (double-check
that)
>* IAC
Motor going
wacko
>* TB
Bypass passages
clogged
>*
Idle Adj. Screw not
adjusted
>*
Vacuum leak (got a pressure tester?)
>The last thing I was going to
mention was the Throttle Position Sensor
(TPS)
>and the Closed Throttle
Position Switch.....<snip
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 08:59:28 -0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
Team3S: AC not working.....
Well, it's not working. Wondering if anybody has any ideas. I
did my 60k and a turbo swap this winter, so I am guessing I maybe missed
something when putting things back together. What I mean by not working,
the compressor won't even come on. If anybody has any ideas, please feel
free to throw them my way.
Thanks,
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 14:08:29 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: RE: Problem with Erratic Idle...Problem Solved!
> However, upon further investigation, I also found
> that the
timing belt appears to have slipped.
> While all 4 cams are correctly
aligned on their
> marks, the crankshaft is advanced 20 degrees,
or
> 2 teeth on the crankshaft sprocket. And likewise,
> if I align
the crankshaft timing mark at TDC, each
> camshaft sprocket is advanced
one tooth. The only
> thing I can figure is that the belt slipped on
the
> crank while I was manually turning the crank
> during the
tranny installation (just
> like I've done many times before!).
Which direction did you turn the crank? If you turn it
counterclockwise as
viewed from the front of the motor then it'll screw up
the tensioner and
compress it and then it'll get slack in the side of the
belt opposite the
tensioner, causing the sort of problem you describe.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 14:23:49 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: AC not working.....
> Well, it's not working. the compressor won't even
> come
on.
Wires/harnesses to the A/C compressor clutch? Fuses in the engine
bay?
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 10:27:13 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: AC not working.....
Isn't there also a fuse on the compressor itself?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 09:31:54 -0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: AC not working.....
Yea, I checked the fuses in the engine bay and they look good. There a few
relays in there and they also looked good. I will have check the wiring
harnesses and see if I missed something there. Also, would the compressor
run if there was little or no Freon in there? I am just wondering if by
moving the hoses around maybe it somehow leaked out and now I have none in the
system?
Thanks,
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 10:34:14 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: AC not working.....
It will run but you could possibly ruin the compressor due to the fact that
the Freon is also a lubricant for a few of the moving parts just be
careful.
Russ F
CT
DR-650's and supporting mods
------------------------------
Most compressors will not engage if the freon pressure is
too low. If
it has leaked out, now may be a good time to
convert to R134a
Nick
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 09:40:10 -0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: AC not working.....
Well, the compressor isn't even coming on, so not much worry there.
Thanks,
------------------------------
I think by his signature that his car is a 96. I am thinking that
with 94 and newer that Freon was not used.
Dan Labonte
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 10:42:17 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: AC not working.....
Francis I would get the system refilled/pressurized before you do anything
else if you think that the Freon leaked out....
Then trace the source of why it isn't coming on, just IMHO
Russ F
CT
DR-650's and supporting mods
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 09:46:15 -0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: AC not working.....
Good advice, will do that first. Of course I never heard anything
leaking out, but you never know I guess.
Thanks,
ps. By the way, how do you like the DR650's? Love mine.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 10:54:36 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: AC not working.....
No, I believe the compressor will not run with insufficient freon. There's
a safety shutoff built in so you won't fry the compressor. If that's the
cause, I believe the little compressor sign on the graphic changes colors or
something. Sorry I sound like I'm unsure here, but I'm unsure here.
Hopefully others can chime in, but I recall reading something about that in the
owners manual.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 15:00:03 -0000
From: Kopsick Michael J Contr
WRALC/LJET <
Michael.Kopsick@robins.af.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: AC not working.....
Its called a low pressure switch on the low side of the a/c
compressor....to test the compressor, unplug the switch and short out the switch
connector with a screw driver. When you do this have the a/c turned
on...when you short it and the clutch on the a/c comes on your a/c is either low
on freon or you have a leak, or the low pressure switch is bad...charge the
system or pull a vacuum on it to determine a leak or if the switch is bad.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 11:00:39 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
FW: Team3S: AC not working.....
Not sure if this went to the list---
- -----Original Message-----
From: Kopsick Michael J Contr WRALC/LJET
[mailto:Michael.Kopsick@robins.af.mil]
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2003 10:59
AM
To: Starkey, Jr., Joseph
Subject: RE: Team3S: AC not working.....
Its called a low pressure switch on the low side of the a/c
compressor....to test the compressor, unplug the switch and short out the switch
connector with a screw driver. When you do this have the a/c turned
on...when you short it and the clutch on the a/c comes on your a/c is either low
on freon or you have a leak, or the low pressure switch is bad...charge the
system or pull a vacuum on it to determine a leak or if the switch is bad.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 08:37:08 -0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <
privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: AC not working.....
I just went to Checker & picked up a pound of 134A for $8, the filler
valve for about $10. The stuff I grabbed also had the florescent die in it so
you can find the leak with a UV light. There were kits with the lights for just
a few bucks also. Some of the stuff they had for sale also had a pressure gauge
built in so you won't over charge the system. The same system I'm doing now
(wife's truck) the last shop she took it to wanted to change out the compressor
without running the die through first. They wanted something like $300. they can
bite me. Rippoffs come out of the woodwork when a women drives in.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 16:06:52 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: AC not working.....
You shouldn't hear refrigerant leaking out. But what you can do is look for
greasy or oily areas near the compressor or other components and on or by the
hoses and pipe junctions. The oil in the AC system is carried out by the
refrigerant. Refrigerant does not normally leave the system and is not consumed.
If the refrigerant is low then there is a leak. The leak should be found and
fixed before re-charging the system, not just because of environmental concerns
and legal issues, but to avoid wasting your time and money. Also, it is illegal
(Federal law) to deliberately vent Freon or R-134a into the atmosphere.
Freon, BTW, is a tradename for CFC-12 or R-12. HCFC-134a has been used in
our cars (and all new USA cars) starting with the 1994 models.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 11:16:50 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Hood insulator/Fiberglass fabric? & Talon AWD for sale still
I ordered a few parts from Conicelli (whatever I could afford), and one of
the things I asked for was the fabric hood insulator above the entire engine. I
got the metal piece that covers it above the rear turbo. This is not what I
needed. Upon calling Conicelli, I was told that part is not available, at least
they cannot look it up as a part on the car. (I tried on CAPS, but also had no
luck). This is for a 91 Stealth RT/TT.
Anyone know where I can source one? mine is very ripped up in front, I
assume from wind at speed. It's a vital part because it keeps the paint on the
hood nice and shiny!
Thanks!
PS: Still have my 28k mile young, warranteed, black 97 Talon AWD for sale,
if you want to check it out, please visit
www.eaglecars.com . I'm flexible on the
price, as I borrowed money against this car to buy the Stealth. Tell anyone you
know that might be interested! Both are beautiful cars, but I just missed my
stealth, and have the wife's 98 GSX and the twin engine car to drive around if I
need to have some 4g63 fun :)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 11:21:23 -0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: AC not working.....
Jeff,
Thanks, should've know to check your web page. My guess is I left a
connection "unconnected".
Thanks,
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 12:30:41 -0400
From: "Gene Calarco" <
gac@clifton.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Oil type - Piston ring problems?
I was speaking to a tech today and he told me that there has been problems
with piston rings come up from using 10w-40 motor oil. Now > given that the
heavier the oil weight provides better lubrication as the engine heats up and
the oil gets thicker, why could this ring problem occur? I have often
wondered if running a straight SAE 30 grade in a warm climate would give
better protection that running the multi-grade oil like the 10w-40 or the
5W-30. I have the DOHC N/T engine in a 92'
and was wondering what
oil other members used for their cars. Feedback
welcome.
GC
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 09:35:51 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Hood insulator/Fiberglass fabric? & Talon AWD for sale still
CAPS says the part is --- MB640907 , hood insulator.
Rockville
Mitsubishi site says the part is
$32.44.
Jim Berry
==============================================
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 12:01:06 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Hood insulator/Fiberglass fabric? & Talon AWD for sale
still
That's the part I have sitting here, it's thin metal, and about 2'x1' ...
the whole hood is covered with the pliable fiberglass reflective shield, that's
the part I needed :(
Thanks though!
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 13:03:44 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt D" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 16" maximum tire size
Cody,
Because the staggered size works better in every respect.
1. I don't give a squat about speedo correctness. Maybe someone does, but
not me. 2. Smaller front diameter gives me .2-.3 sec in qtr mile.
3. On road
course I get 2-3 seconds better lap times. I've made the comparison several
times on several different tracks over the last two years. 4. On the street, as
well as track, I get much better brake control without worrying about rear
lockup.
5. With the larger tire, I don't need as much rear camber, -.5 works
as a good track/street compromise. Braking is more solid, trail braking is a
viable option in more situations. Tires wear better, because they are never
sliding. 6. On the track I can add 5mph to most turns, yet still have more
control. On the street I can ad 10 mph to most turns. I can sail thru turns at
85-90 mph that other cars are tapping their brakes at 60 mph.
Please don't say what you don't know. You may be in the tire business, but
have you tried this?
Didn't think so.
Kurt
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 10:05:44 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Hood insulator/Fiberglass fabric? & Talon AWD for sale still
Oops, clicked on the wrong number try --- MB632383 $36.58 at Rockville
Mitsu.
Jim Berry
==============================================
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 13:41:29 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Hood insulator/Fiberglass fabric? & Talon AWD for sale
still
Did you try MB632383? I think the metal protector bears part no.
MB640907.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 10:43:18 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
May 25th Sears Point: Team3S Driving NASCAR Winston Cup "The Chute"!
That's right! They are *not* using the normal configuration (with
"the
Carousel") this coming Sunday... We will have a rare opportunity
to drive "The Chute" - that famous high-speed additional straight downhill at
Infineon at Sears Point. About an half-dozen of us 3S types will be there
driving (Ann Koch, Mike Gerhard, Bill Ashurst, plus Geoff/Nissa in their Z-06,
and it looks like we have over a dozen Team3S members and friends coming to
watch and beg passenger rides from us. I've got my best friend from NYC
(former staffer from Car & Driver, Terry Reynolds) coming in and he'll be
driving my VR-4 in Group 2 -- but he doesn't know I signed him up yet...
;-) I'll be in Group 4 and instructing. ET will be instructing and
driving the VR-4 in Group 3, AND she'll be driving for her competition license
in Group 4p with our new race-prepped Spec Miata! We're picking it up in
Monterey tomorrow - it was built for us by the guy who has won the Spec Miata
Challenge for the last 3 years, the head of NASA HPDE, Barry Hartzel.
If we get TWO more signups, we qualify for the NASA discount to members -
we will get between $20 and $35 rebated off the $180 fee for the day. The
only groups left are Groups 3 & 4 "open track" (no passing in corners for 3,
passing in corners for 4). All other groups are FULL! If you want
this rare opportunity, sign up NOW from the NASA website
www.nasaproracing.com
We will all be gathering together, but we don't know where yet - just look
for a bunch of Stealths & 3000GTs and you'll find us. BE
there!!!
- ---Forrest
------------------------------
Is it really worth the 10 bucks a month for the 3si.org owners group? This
is just a curiosity question and I am willing to do it, but is it really worth
it? Is there any real advantages?
Mike Guy
92 SOHC Stealth
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 14:39:38 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt D" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Illegal to coast in neutral??
Hmm..so most people with automatics are breaking the law on every
downgrade. Only recently have manufacturers started implementing a freewheel
disable on automatics when in overdrive.
Kurt
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 13:41:32 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Illegal to coast in neutral??
No..youre mis-interpreting the laws intention.
The issue is being in control. If something bad happens FAST..you may
not properly get the car in gear and accel/control the car out of a bad
situation in time.
- ---
Now offering replacement
Toyota/Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Porsche/SAAB/Volvo parts Where do you buy YOUR brakes
from?
orders@speedtoys.com Maybe
I can help..asking is free. :) "If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 13:45:35 -0500 (CDT)
From: "dunkin" <
dunkin@netcarrier.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Data Logger vs. Develop Own Software?
Data Logger - I'm looking into getting a data
logger. I want the basics read error codes graph some stuff
etc...... Any suggestions??? I've seen some for the Palm Pilot, some
that store the info and you can download it into your computer, and ones that
only read error codes. Not looking to spend tons of money only about
$300.00 or less. I want the best for the buck though. I was hoping I
could find one that would work on other cars too! I'm not completely sure
of all the different connectors from the early 90s to most current maybe someone
can explain. Different on Ford, Honda and Mitsubishi, etc...??? Are
their more than OBDI and OBDII connectors ???
OR
Develop Own Software - If I have the time I might develop the software
myself. The hard part is how do you get Mitsubishi to give you all the
data that comes out of their connectors? Anyone ever try getting this
data? I'm sure it comes with a price. I see some waveform stuff in
the factory manual but I didn't really look to see if it applies to the
diagnostic connector. Probably a series of pulses easily read by a palm
through the serial port. A little code crunching would get the job
done.
Thanx,
Darius
- - 3000GT 1991 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 15:05:10 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt D" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: crank harmonic balancer bolt
Anyone near 92557, I have a 22mm 1/2 drive socket. .05 cents per weekend.
Kurt
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 15:08:20 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Data Logger vs. Develop Own Software?
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#158
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