Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, May 17
2003 Volume 02 : Number 156
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Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 05:45:47 -0400
From: ERIC PIERCE PIERCE <
griz600cc@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 16" Rims
After reading the reply messages I understand the stock 16" rims are
16x8. I was looking into different 16" rims and I see alot in the 16x7
size. How much affect would running a 16x7 rim have on the car?
Eimom
93 Stealth ES
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 04:43:09 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 16" Rims
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "ERIC PIERCE PIERCE" <
griz600cc@comcast.net>
> After
reading the reply messages I understand the stock 16" rims are
> 16x8. I
was looking into different 16" rims and I see alot in the 16x7
> size.
How much affect would running a 16x7 rim have on the car? Eimom
> 93
Stealth ES
- ------------------------------------>
It wouldn't be a very good idea, for both aesthetic and safety
reasons. A heavy car needs lots of air to support it, and a smallish 7"
isn't really enough. The Base model Stealth (which is 300lbs lighter than
your ES) comes with a 7.5" wheel, for example. I can't say it any better
than Tire Rack: "A tire's first requirement is that it must be able to carry the
weight of your vehicle. No matter how good a tire you select, if its
capabilities are "overworked" just carrying the load, it will have little
reserve capacity to help your vehicle respond to quick emergency. So when you
are in the selection process, make certain that your new tire's size is designed
to carry the weight of your vehicle! Don't undersize."
Car manufacturers provide the smallest size wheel that can support the car
safely. That's why people upgrade to wider tires - to put MORE rubber on
the road for reasons of enhancing safety and handling. Even assuming for a
moment that you could find such a rim in a bolt pattern to fit our cars, it
would not be the safest choice, since there is not enough air in them to support
your car properly. You could buy more expensive tires in a higher speed
rating and slightly wider size..., and run higher inflation to compensate, but
it would still be a downgrade, (besides looking awful, IMO). A narrow rim
would limit your choices for what width of tire you could put on it. The
maximum
(recommended) tire width for *any* rim width is [1.2 X width].
For a 7" rim, your maximum size would be 7" x 1.2 x 25.4mm/" = 213mm, or a 215
series tire, a 215/60 or 215/55. If you just use the car for local
shopping, I'm sure it would be sufficient, but I wouldn't want to take them on
the highway at high speed. Stock width for a 16" wheel is 225, but many of
us use 235, 245, 255, even 265 on 8"-, 9"-, or 10"-wide wheels. Stick with
stock, or move UP. "Don't undersize."
- ---Forrest
'94 Stealth
Base,
Street: 18"x9" wheels, 255/40 tires
Track: 16"x8" wheels,
245/45 tires
'91 3000GT VR-4,
Street: 18"x10" wheels, 265/35
tires
Track: 17"x8.5" wheels, 255/40 tires
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 08:38:11 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: socket for harmonic balancer
I know our good friend Anthony is just starting to dig into his 60K
service. Let's help him out here with an answer to the following question
so he doesn't snap off his bolt. I can't recall--are the threads on the
harmonic balancer bolt left handed? For some reason I seem to recall that
they are.
------------------------------
O'Reilly's, PepBoys, AutoZone, etc etc etc
where are you anyhow?
------------------------------
What I have see is when there is oil in the Y-pipe it is an indication of
the oil seal in one of the turbos has gone bad. I don't recall off hand if
the right section of the Y-pipe goes to the front or rear turbo. You should be
able to tell by following the pluming. Does your car let out a black/blue
puff of smoke during hard acceleration?
Dan Labonte
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 08:55:39 -0500
From: "Lim, Yong H SPC"
<
yong.lim@sill.army.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: What's that plastic thing on the rear bumper
Ok, I got 93 vr-4 and I am trying to find out what's the part number for
that plastic part on the rear bumper, that gray(i'm not sure if this is the
color with all the vehicles) plastic around license plate. I would really
appreciate it if anybody can tell me what this is called or give me a part
number on this. Thanks.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 09:55:21 -0400
From: "Gil Gomes" <
gil@3kgt.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Team3s:
Y-pipe question
That'd be the rear turbo...
- -G
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 09:57:42 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Team3s: Y-pipe question
The right side of the Y-Pipe goes to the rear turbo.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 06:59:13 -0700
From: Andy <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: seemingly stupid 60k service question
Anthony - There is a great product I have been using for years that is
little known, but worth its weight in gold. It is called SUPER METAL MARKER and
has "POTPOURRRI" written on it. It comes in different colors and costs 4 bucks a
tube. I am still using the tube I bought 10 years ago. I found it with
Google. just search for super metal marker in quotes. Here is the link for a
look-see. This stuff writes on anything and is permanent. It does not harm
anything.
Andy
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 15:59:59 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Team3s: Y-pipe question
The seals are not always the case. More often the oil in the rear IC piping
(and turbo and intercooler) comes from the crankcase ventilation blowing
out oil. Often this happens when increasing boost as the stock PCV valve
doesn't hold pressure very well. As we have a closed circuit the oil then
is sucked in by the rear intake before the turbos.
There is a least an oil catch can you should install in the PCV line before
it goes to the intake. This prevents the oil sucked in. Additionally a
crankcase ventilation kit called "Crankvent" is a good investment after
cleaning up everything to prevent pressure going into the crankcase.
If there is still some oil after a few hundreds of miles then there could
be blowby due to damaged rings and pressure can reach the crankcase or the
turbo seals are really gone. Later is often not really the case for too
much oil but it's also one of the possibilities.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 10:08:21 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: What's that plastic thing on the rear bumper
I believe I know what you are talking about, and there's no listing in CAPS
for the part separate from the rear bumper.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 16:15:32 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: What's that plastic thing on the rear bumper
It's called "rear bumper plastic insert" and in fact seems not to be
listed. Also it's only gray(black?) on the first gen cars. It got painted
in the second gens (or many did it on the first gens).
------------------------------
Oh..yah...right...I knew that the rear turbo comes in on the right side of
the Y-pipe. And Crank vents, sure .. I knew that to, good idea.
<blush>
(Where's a good place to buy the Crank vents from?)
Dan Labonte
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 14:28:21 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: socket for harmonic balancer
> That's a good way to crack the bolt-head
> in half. Seen it
happen on too many
> customer cars. The 1/2 drive hole in the
>
bolt-head is great for rotating the
> engine, not for torquing or
loosening
> the bolt.
I've used it that way on lots of cars, 3/S and DSM and never had a
problem. I
dunno... I don't think I'd put a 250+ ft/lb impact
wrench on it, but the
breaker bar seemed to be fine applying steadily
increasing pressure on it.
If you've got the right socket for it, I suppose you might as well use
it.
Most typical socket sets won't have it though.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 10:35:06 -0400
From: Marc Jonathan Jacobs <
Marc.J.Jacobs@alcatel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Datalogging gas mileage
All this talk about coasting has sparked my curiosity. I know that
people with data loggers can read IDC or injector duty cycle. Can you use
IDC & fuel pressure & RPM to calculate how much gas you are using
instantly? Then in combination with the speedometer, calculate MPG?
Also, I would like to know what the IDC is during acceleration, cruise,
idle, and engine braking for a variety of RPMs. If someone has this data,
then great. If not, then can someone point me to a log that would graph it
over a whole drag strip run which would include these conditions? Idle,
Fast Idle (pre-launch), accel, and braking.
Unfortunately I have a '94 VR-4 and cannot do these myself - yet... Please
CC me off list <
Marc.j.Jacobs@alcatel.com> , as I
am on the digest and frequently miss posts. Thanks.
- --
Marc J.
Jacobs '94 Blue VR-4
xDSL Hardware Development
Alcatel,
USA (919) 850-6386
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 16:47:42 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Datalogging gas mileage
No, datalogging gas mileage makes no sense at all. It doesn't help at all.
But if you really want to display the correct amount then install two flow
meter, each one in the fuel line and in the return line. The difference of
the flow is what has been consumed ... voilą.
The IDC extremely depends on injector size, what fuel map the ECU is on,
ambient, fuel type, settings on a fuel computer ... and many more. But you
can easily get top the IDC as you can graph the signal to the injectors and
display it with an IDC display tool like the S-AFC or others. When IDC is
on 100% and you know the exact flow of your injectors (let's say 365cc/m)
then of course you can determine that for 1.5 second you had 95% IDC and
therefore an equivalent amount of fuel has been consumed (and/or
wasted)
I still don't see any use of this. I drive till the tank is close to empty
fill up the tank and calculate with the trip counter. All the other fuel
consumption stuff like I had in my Audi was wrong anyways.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 16:51:52 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Team3s: Y-pipe question
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 07:53:15 -0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <
privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Illegal to coast in neutral??
All cars & trucks from the 1930's through probably 1980's with an
overdrive feature (a REAL overdrive not just a locking torque converter) had the
freewheeling feature. Feels weird if your not expecting it. The overdrive on my
93SL autobox is just the locking converter. NO freewheeling allowed.
Pete Rivenburg
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 10:01:00 -0500
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <
kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: Team3S:
question about transaxle output shaft replacement
Guys,
I replaced the output shaft in my transaxle (with it still in
the car)
for the second time last week. My process for this was
1. Remove small front cover/springs
2. Remove end transaxle cover,
carefully catch balls
3. Open VCU "can" and slide out old shaft, put in new
shaft
4. Close VCU "can"
5. Replace end cover
6. Put balls, springs in
holes on front of cover, screw on small
cover
This worked great the first time, but this last time I fouled
something
up because the trans will not go into gear now. I left
the trans in neutral
when I took the cover off. Is there
something special I need to do while the
cover is off to assure
the trans will still go into gear later? I tried
removing the
small cover and springs and shifting the trans but it still
won't shift into gear out of neutral.
Any advice on getting this fixed up would be very much
appreciated.
Walton C. Gibson
------------------------------
At 07:53 AM 5/16/03 -0700, Rivenburg, Pete wrote:
>All cars &
trucks from the 1930's through probably 1980's with an
>overdrive feature
(a REAL overdrive not just a locking torque
>converter) had the
freewheeling feature. Feels weird if your not
>expecting it.
By George, Pete's right!
I only drove one car with an overdrive (My
Dad's 1954 Kaiser Darrin*), and it freewheeled in overdrive. It also had a wide
ratio three speed tranny, so you could convert it to a six speed by going 1, 1
OD, 2, 2 OD, 3, 3OD. Took a lot of fancy shifting and switching, but it
impressed passengers.
*sigh* Nostalgia just isn't what it used to be.
*Yes, I know. Wish we'd kept it. One went for $400,000 a few years ago
during the collector craze.
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 11:34:10 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: latest volley in the extended warranty transmission battle
I may have mentioned that the synchros are pretty bad on my '94VR4. I
"discovered" this when I had the clutch replaced, fairly soon after buying the
car. The clutch was replaced pre-emptively, before it failed. I took
the car to the dealer to have the transmission checked for replacement under my
extended warranty (Gulf States Toyota), which I got with the purchase of the
car. The insurance appraiser said the clutch was bad. I sent the
clutch replacement ticket to the warranty company to prove I had replaced the
clutch already. The latest is that the warranty company says the synchros
were damaged by driving with a bad clutch, which is my fault since I didn't
maintain the car properly, i.e. replace the clutch soon enough.
I'm not intending to roll over on this, I intend to show the mileage at
purchase, at clutch replacement, and at the transmission inspection, but I
expect I am going to just wind up turning it over to a lawyer for small claims
court. These are the same bozos who replaced one front wheel bearing, but
wouldn't replace the other until it was about to fall off.
BTW the clutch in my '93 VR4 failed completely before I replaced it with no
adverse effects on the synchros.
Any advice or references?
Chuck Willis
'93VR4 with good synchros
'94VR4 with bad synchros
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 09:41:51 -0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <
privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: latest volley in the extended warranty transmission battle
Unless the clutch was dragging (not slipping like 99% of clutches do when
going bad) I can't see were it would effect the synchros at all. Sounds like
typical insurance company evasion to me. Many have a policy of denying any &
all claims the first time through since many people get put off permanently by
that and never follow up.
Pete Rivenburg
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 11:42:26 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: latest volley in the extended warranty transmission battle
It could happen, but to fail synchros on a bad clutch would be the result
of a badly installed clutch...where the clutch never fully releases. Not a
worn one.
- ---
Now offering replacement
Toyota/Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Porsche/SAAB/Volvo parts Where do you buy YOUR brakes
from?
orders@speedtoys.com Maybe
I can help..asking is free. :) "If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 12:05:09 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: latest volley in the extended warranty transmission battle
Thanks to both Geoff and Pete. I will use this ammunition in my
reply. My clutch was slipping before I replaced it, not failing to
disengage.
Chuck
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 10:25:09 -0700
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: latest volley in the extended warranty transmission battle
Like the other guys said, a worn clutch will do the complete opposite of
what needs to happen to damage your tranny. They are blowing hot air up your...
Also, if you are going the small claims court route, there are no lawyers
allowed. Do it yourself, chances are they wont even show up and you will win
almost by default.
Tyson
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 19:44:48 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: What's that plastic thing on the rear bumper
That's actually part of the rear bumper. It's not a separate
piece...
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 May 2003 23:43:16 -0600
From: Fraser Family <
b-mfraser@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Team3s: Y-pipe question
I've honestly never been anywhere but in the drivers seat during hard
acceleration, so I have no idea about smoke colour. However, lately I've been
hearing and feeling some slight backfiring during acceleration when the car is
still fairly cold. This is accompanied by some serious hesitation of the engine,
while in the lower gears before warming up. As well, sometimes when I wait for
the car to warm up and rev it in neutral, I can hear some "mini-backfiring" as
the rpm's are dropping at hit about 2000. Any help, or advice is appreciated,
Sean Fraser 92 R/T TT
------------------------------
Did anyone ever find out whether the big bolt on the harmonic balancer is a
standard turn to loosen or reverse threads ? You know, lefty loosely, righty
tightly kind of thing ?
Now all I have to do is actually find a 22mm socket. I tried many
places the other day, and even though they do carry sockets, none has had a
22mm.
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#156
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