Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, May 16
2003 Volume 02 : Number 155
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 23:48:45 -0400
From: "Ken Lovell" <
wklovell@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Bolt Size
I just put in a used CD stock changer, and there is one bolt that is
missing that appears to go in the middle of the mount on the left side of the
trunk. Does anyone know the size of that bolt?
Thanks,
Ken
'97 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 06:10:42 -0400
From: "Arthurs Family" <
arthursfam@madbbs.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Engine Rebuilding
Greetings to all,
26 miles after buying my car, '92 Stealth RT/TT, I spun a rod bearing
when I changed the sludge that was passing for oil to the recommended Mobil
1. I can now report that my dad & I just finished a successful
(complete) re-build of the engine! During the past 2 months I posed
many questions to this group and always received responses (I'm the one who
started the "what's an engine, what's a motor" controversy). Thank you to
one & all!
During this time, I learned many things. Most importantly is that a
novice CAN successfully perform his or her own work on these cars. I
thought my dad was being a bit jerky when he made me check everything I did at
least 3
times, but I thanked him for that when it fired up last
Sunday! Our only
experience prior was with small block Chevys and
"old English" roadsters...nothing as sophisticated as this! Of course what
you will need, in addition to tools, is understanding parents/spouse
willing to "live alone" for 2 months and willing to give up their spot in the
garage (don't even try without at least 2 bays). It helps if you're
willing to go out at 5 a.m. and scrape the frost/snow off their car.
I would like to offer myself to anyone with questions about amateur
rebuilding. Maybe we did some things "not by the book" and certainly not
to the degree of techno ability of most of the members here, but the darn thing
runs and runs GOOD! I can't wait to get a few thou miles on the car and
see just how good!
Anyway, please feel free to contact me via this post or at
arthursfam@madbbs.com If you
happen to be in the neighborhood, please drop by. Summertime here is
really great with plenty of nice spots to sit around and talk car talk. If
nothing else, I might be able to save you some time by not repeating the same
mistakes we made.
Thanks again to all for your responses, and to those who maintain this
site. The archives and "how to's" by members were extremely helpful.
Jonathan Arthurs
Jamestown, NY
------------------------------
You can check your rings by doing a compression test. I think that a
good test should show compression of 115-150 psi (at sea level) with no more
then 10psi between cylinders. If one of the readings is low, you check the
rings by doing a "wet test", you add a little oil to the suspected cylinder and
repeat the test. If the new reading is higher after adding the oil it
points to a bad ring. The oil helps to seal the piston ring during the
test. If reading is still low it can point to possible bad valve seat.
Good luck,
Dan Labonte
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 07:53:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: JuQuEl <
juquel@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
All-Wheel Drive & Neutral
Is it OK to put an All-Wheel drive car in neutral for
coasting? I
have heard from others that it is not
good for AWD's to be out of gear at all
while driving.
If anyone knows the answer & what will happen to
the
car if it is put in neutral too much, I'd love to
know...
Thanks!
LouAnn
'93 VR4
'91 Eagle Talon
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 08:01:38 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
crankshaft position sensor looks bad
Thanks a lot for the advice on this post. I am going to:
1) look for the Jeff L. post
2) make sure the ECU is sending the required power to the sensors (as
Philip is saying, the crank sensor might not be getting powered up)
3) test the cam signal on the ecu's crank input for the square wave, but
disconnect the ignition coil when I do it so that I don't risk spinning the
engine backwards
According to the shop manual--if I'm reading it correctly--the engine does
fail-safe simultaneous fuel injection (rather than sequential injection) if a
bad cam signal is found but crank signal is okay. Whether or not this actually
happens I'm really not sure.
Hopefully I'll get to this today. I'll let you guys know how it goes. The
parts manager at my local Mitsu dealer has doubts as to whether the sensor is
actually bad, and suspects the ECU.
Thanks again,
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
------------------------------
?Why would you want to do that with ANY car?!
Put the car in neutral while driving and you have given up any control you
might have with the throttle or clutch. You are just rolling merrily along
with just the steering wheel and brakes for control of the car's direction and
speed.
If you are stopped, it doesn't hurt anything and maybe let's you rest your
left leg.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
When I am stopping I commonly (or lazily) put the car in neutral and coast
to a stop. I do this mostly on off-ramp. I am working to overcome
this bad habit, and now always have the car in gear on the track.
Damage can occur to the AWD system, mainly the VCUs, if there is no weight
on the wheels and the tires spin at driving speeds. Turning the tire slowly by
hand is ok.
Dan Labonte
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 10:35:40 -0500
From: "Patrick Purviance" <
purdaddy@associatedsys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: All-Wheel Drive & Neutral
Why would it even matter? It's how they're designed....
And you're
not really driving if it's not in gear, you're trying to control a 2 ton wagon
(little kids wagon, not a station wagon ;) ).
I have to agree that cruising down the highway it would be a bit ignorant
to just shift to neutral for no reason. What are you shooting for?
Saving gas? Chuck's right there, if an emergency situation arose, you'd
lose precious time shifting back into gear. Not worth it to me. But
in general, it shouldn't hurt anything, IMO. If it wasn't designed to
handle coasting, it shouldn't be moving period. Again, IMO.
I mean what about coasting to a stop? I don't think that engine
braking is any more effective than shifting to neutral and using your
brakes. That's the design, is it not?
-Patrick
Patrick Purviance
'94 Stealth R/T TT, 60k miles, Open Air Intake, 1g DSM
BOV, Pro Boost MBC, Blitz DATT Wichita, KS
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 10:38:35 -0500
From: Jon Paine <
ppainej@attglobal.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: All-Wheel Drive & Neutral
Shouldn't hurt anything mechanically, but I'd wonder about whether it's
even legal in your jurisdiction to do it. Some states have laws
prohibiting this, for the reason that you lose a certain amount of
control over the car by doing it... It's not a good idea for that
reason.
Jon Paine
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 08:41:25 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
All-Wheel Drive & Neutral
I wasn't aware that it's a problem. I put my car in neutral all the
time when coasting and it seems to be all right. Perhaps I'm not seeing
something that I'm damaging slowly. The previous owner did the same (I
think)
and she finally had to replace transfer case & tranny at around 150k
miles--still a long life.
There is a slight play in my rear diff., but what can you expect when it
has 196,000 miles or so on it.
I'll be sure to keep the car in gear from now on.
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 09:43:53 -0600
From: "Curtis McConnell" <
Curtis.McConnell@pulte.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: All-Wheel Drive & Neutral
It sounds like I am wrong in saying this, but I was told in the past that
it help lubricate the transmission when you cruise in neutral....
Curtis McConnell
1995 Vr-4 Spyder BPU ++
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 10:45:59 -0500
From: "Patrick Purviance" <
purdaddy@associatedsys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: All-Wheel Drive & Neutral
Really? I didn't know that. Man, that doesn't make much sense,
but I guess I've got something else to change about my driving habits.
Dang, so how much damage could have been done if all 60k miles on the car were
driven with that style?
-Patrick
------------------------------
Patrick,
I think you misunderstood my post. The VCU can be damaged when the
car is up on jacks and you, let's say, start the car and put it into gear and
turn the wheels. There is a sticker on the inside of the driver's door
that warns against this.
I am working on changing my driving habits for track driving. I don't
know of any problems with going to neutral while normal street driving. I am
sure your car is fine for the past 60k.
Dan Labonte
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 11:07:48 -0500
From: "Patrick Purviance" <
purdaddy@associatedsys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: All-Wheel Drive & Neutral
Aiight, sorry Dan, I missed the "if there is no weight on the wheels" part
there. My bad.
I've always driven this way on the street and had never heard anyone say it
was bad for my car, so I'm still of the persuasion that no damage should occur
for vehicle to coast to a stop.
Also, sometimes on a long stretch of road on my way home from work I'll do
"mini-rolling-launches", gunning it in a gear (usually 3rd) and then coasting in
neutral or with the clutch in to slow down, then repeat, for giggles and to show
everyone else they can't hang with me. Juvenile, I know, but it's
fun. That fits into this discussion. Is that a bad idea?
-Patrick
------------------------------
Patrick wrote:
"Is that a bad idea?"
It all depends on whether or not the cop up the road picks you up or
not
:)
Dan Labonte
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 09:15:11 -0700
From: "Dean Benz" <
dean@benzfamily.us>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: All-Wheel Drive & Neutral
I don't know the internals of our transmissions, perhaps they have
provisions to avoid this issue but...
The theory behind not coasting in neutral is that since the only shafts in
the transmission that are in motion depending on the clutch position, and if the
engine is running are definitely the output shaft and maybe the input shaft. In
many transmissions, these are not in contact with the transmission oil, and none
of the other gears are spinning to throw oil around and keep everything
lubricated, so the input or output bearings might run dry in their
bearings.
The likelihood of this for short durations rolling up to a stop is slim to
none, but this is exactly why you should not tow most cars for any distance at
any speed with their drive wheels on the ground, and why you should definitely
not coast down the 2000 foot grade in the mountains with the engine off
just to see if you can...
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 16:19:21 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: All-Wheel Drive & Neutral
> I think you misunderstood my post. The VCU
> can be
damaged when the car is up on jacks
> and you, let's say, start the car
and put
> it into gear and turn the wheels. There is
> a
sticker on the inside of the driver's
> door that warns against
this.
No, actually this won't damage the VCU. Actually what you are
describing is
the procedure the service manual suggests for testing the AWS
system.
Damage generally occurs if the car is towed on a hook (one end of the car
in
the air, the other wheels rolling on the ground) where the VCU isn't
physically
able to spin the wheels that aren't rotating. The other
case is when the
output shaft of the transmission strips out, and only the
front wheels have
resistance to spinning so the VCU tries to balance the
power between the output
shaft and the front differential,
unsuccessfully.
Only when there are large or long-term differences in force applied to
either
end of the car is it a problem for the VCU.
"Normal" driving (or coasting or whatever) isn't harmful to the VCU unless
there is a mechanical problem in the driveline.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
I was recently involved in a minor accident ..... suburban ran me off
the road .... and I am in need of a few different parts. There was a
Body Kit installed by Erebuni and I am going to need to replace at
least
the front, rear, sideskirts and door cap on one side so I am
considering my
options. Where would I go to look for the stock parts
and could I
purchase the '99 style and have it installed on my '95
3000gt? I am
having a Corvette Rebuilding Specialist do the work,
being that he did all
the work on my Vette and Cobra, so I was
wondering about the body pieces for
one.
Second, I am going to need to replace the Headlight system and Fog
lights as they were both destroyed, any idea on what type of system I
could go with there. I was leaning towards the McCullough HID System
for the headlights and had no idea for the Fog Lights.
And as a minor addition, anyone know where to purchase the VR4, SL
emblems that go on the back of the car and/or the Twin Turbo stickers
that are on the side behind the door?
Thanks,
Russ
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 16:40:28 -0000
From: Kopsick Michael J Contr
WRALC/LJET <
Michael.Kopsick@robins.af.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Need a 1994 stock rim
Does anyone have a stock rim from a 1994 3000gt sl that they want to
sell?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 16:59:41 -0000
From: Kopsick Michael J Contr
WRALC/LJET <
Michael.Kopsick@robins.af.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: 16" maximum tire size
I need to replace the tires on my 1994 3000gt sl. I looked in your
archives and found alot of 17" tires sizes. Can anyone recommend the best
tire size and brand for this car? Many Thanks and I'm new to your
list...Look forward to learning alot here...Mike Kopsick
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 14:44:51 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt D" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 16" maximum tire size
On the street 245/45-17 should work well, on 8 or 8.5 rim width. BFG KD,
EVS100 and Kumho seem to be popular current choices.
Kurt
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 12:30:35 -0700
From: John Sheehan <
johns@kyso.com>
Subject: Team3S: data
logger recommendations
I am looking to get a data logger or Pocket logger. Any recommendations
? Laptop or Palm.
Pros and Cons on all three. PPT
, Digital Tuning , Techmotive ?
Thank you, John
93, VR-4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 15:42:42 -0400
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 16"
maximum tire size
I have used 245/50/16 tires on my stock 16x8" rims
Omar
92 r/t
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 19:46:37 -0000
From: Kopsick Michael J Contr
WRALC/LJET <
Michael.Kopsick@robins.af.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Need 16" stock rim ASAP
Not to repeat myself guys, but does anyone know where I can purchase a 94
3000gt sl stock wheel...The wife has curbed my right front wheel and I have to
replace this ASAP...she really put a bruise on the current wheel...many
Thanks
Mike Kopsick
94 3000GT sl
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 15:47:46 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt D" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 16" maximum tire size
I had thought you were trading 16 for 17in.
If you stay with 16in, then
I recommend going with 245/45-16 fr, and 255/50-16 re If 94 sl rim is LT 8 in,
then just go 245/45 all around. Common size for most tire brands.
This is about 1 in shorter than stock 225/55, but get lowering springs and
it will look fine. The 255/50 are a good size match to stock, but I like the
extra acceleration and rake with the smaller front and larger rear tires.
Kurt
------------------------------
Check out the parts for sale section of 3si, I think there are some out
there for sale. Or either DiscountTire.com to Tirerack.com if you need one
fast.
What is it with these wives? Mine has curbed a car on 5 separate
occasions that I can recall. And she wonders why I will not teach her to
drive stick.
Dan
------------------------------
I picked up most of the parts for my 60k service and was wondering what
kind of socket do I need to remove the harmonic balancer ?
The Team3s 60k page shows that I need a 22mm socket. But I was
wondering if a standard or deep socket would be best ? I do have a 3/8"
drive socket, but don't think that will survive the torque and wanted to but a
good socket for this.
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
BTW, the local dealer gave me a fantastic deal and he would be happy to
handle parts requests from other members.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 17:07:36 -0600
From: Fraser Family <
b-mfraser@shaw.ca>
Subject: Team3S:
Team3s: Y-pipe question
Hello All,
I'm new to the list here, and have a question for you. I was
playing around under the hood today (1992 R/T TT), figuring out how to remove
the stock airbox (as I will soon replace it with a K&N). Eventually I
removed the two side-by-side pipes going to the y-pipe. I found what looked like
dark oil inside the right tube on the y-pipe (while facing the engine). There
wasn't a whole lot, but I just wasn't sure it was normal, since I thought this
was where only air flowed.
Thanks,
Sean Fraser
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 16:13:57 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: socket for harmonic balancer
> I picked up most of the parts for my 60k service and was wondering
> what kind of socket do I need to remove the harmonic balancer ?
I've used a 22mm 1/2" drive 12pt socket when I've done it. If I had
one, I'd rather use a 6pt socket, but I currently don't have one. Standard
or deep lengths should both be fine - I've always used a standard.
I also found it exceedingly convenient to have a 24" (1/2" Drive) extension
bar and a 48" cheater bar. I attach the 24" extension bar to the socket
and to a 1/2" drive wrench or breaker bar. The extension allows just
enough clearance to get the wrench or breaker bar to clear the fender.
Have a friend (or chair, jack, or piece of wood) support the head of the wrench,
and then, with the 48" cheater bar slid over the wrench, push down and the bolt
will come right out. I love physics and 4ft cheater bars =)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 18:56:45 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: socket for harmonic balancer
> I picked up most of the parts for my 60k service
> and was
wondering what kind of socket do I
> need to remove the harmonic balancer
?
I used a long 1/2" end ratchet extension and plugged it into my breaker
bar. Just put the 1/2" end into the end of the pulley bolt and crank away.
That's what the square hole is for.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 19:06:25 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 16" maximum tire size
Why in the world would you do that? Talk about upsetting the stock
balance of the car...
245/50-16 is identical in diameter to stock, just 20 mm wider. You
don't mess up gear ratios, you don't make the speedo inaccurate, and it just
works...
written by yours truly...
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 19:17:36 -0500
From: "Oskar Persson" <
osk@attbi.com>
Subject: Team3S: Illegal to
coast in neutral?? (was: All-Wheel Drive & Neutral)
What!! I've never heard of this. Jon, could you please mention
a few of these states that have laws against coasting out of gear?
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 20:25:03 -0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: seemingly stupid 60k service question
Ok this is going to sound weird, but I have been going nuts looking for a
tire marking crayon or similar kind of thing, to mark some of the parts and the
old timing belt when I take them off. I want to make sure everything is
marked so it goes back properly.
But none of the local auto parts stores has one, or even knows what I am
talking about.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 20:30:35 -0400
From: "Gil Gomes" <
gil@3kgt.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
seemingly stupid 60k service question
You could take one from the Meter Maids in Newport, RI. They use them
to mark your tires. If your marked tires are still there 45 minutes later,
you get a ticket under your wiper... I know exactly what you're talking about.
Have no idea where to get one though... I'll ask a Meter Maid if I see
one.
(smile)
- -G
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 17:36:14 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Illegal to coast in neutral??
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
id assume most. I've known this since I was about 10..at least.
-
------------------------------>
Yup. It's known as "freewheeling", and it's been illegal since the
late 50's or early 60's. People (especially truckers) used to go into
neutral (or even turn their engine off!) to coast down long hills, just to save
a few cents' worth of gas. That was when gas was getting REALLY expensive
- like over 25 cents a gallon. ;-) I know it's true in NY and all
over New England (Vermont? or New Hampshire? excluded - they don't believe in
science there).
;-) People were losing control of their vehicles a lot
because engine braking wasn't slowing them down, and they'd burn out brakes,
etc. Bob Dylan named his second album "Freewheelin" (63), because of
people making references to him being "out of control". ...a little
history for the kiddies...
- --Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 19:40:19 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: seemingly stupid 60k service question
White out works well too...
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 21:08:30 -0400
From: "Joseph Spainhour" <
spainhou@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: seemingly stupid 60k service question
Get a carpenters/welders marker. They sell them at Sears.
Joseph
93 3KGT VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 18:04:32 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Illegal to coast in neutral?? (was: All-Wheel Drive & Neutral)
It's probably not illegal since it's impossible to verify [ unless you tell
them ]. I would venture to guess that all states recommend against it in their
drivers handbooks.
Jim Berry
=================================================
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 18:06:50 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
seemingly stupid 60k service question
Try a tire shop --- that's where I stole mine.
A stationary store should
have a grease pencil --- not as heavy duty but the principle is the same.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 20:50:29 -0500
From: "Oskar Persson" <
osk@attbi.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Illegal to coast in neutral??
Interesting! I must have missed this part in the driver's handbook
when I got my license many years ago. Once again I'm reminded that
everyday is a learning experience!
I wonder what they did with the SAABs that were imported here. Thru
the 1978 model year, the SAAB 93, 95 and 96 models were equipped with a
"freewheeling" feature. These cars had a manual transmission, but were
also equipped with a centrifugal device that put the car into "freewheeling"
mode when you let up on the gas. Basically when you let up on the gas the
car was just idling, then when you stepped into it the car would engage the
driveline at whatever RPM corresponded to the speed/gear you were in.
This device was controlled via a crank on the fire wall below the steering
column, so you could also run the car in engine braking mode. Maybe they simply
eliminated this device for the US bound models.
Oskar
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 20:53:21 -0500
From: "Oskar Persson" <
osk@attbi.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Illegal to coast in neutral?? (was: All-Wheel Drive & Neutral)
Hopefully they also recommend against cell phone usage, eating/drinking
(non alcoholic), make-up application, reading, complicated audio systems and
Playstations. IMHO these things are probably more of an issue than someone
coasting their car in neutral.
Oskar
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 19:03:33 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Illegal to coast in neutral??
Found it ---- I was wrong, which is so unlike me.
21710. The driver of a motor vehicle when traveling on down grade
upon any highway shall not coast with the gears of such vehicle in
neutral.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Over the past four years of track events, I have managed to damage the
underside of my rocker panels. I like to jack the whole side of the car up to
change street tires to race tires, swap tires front/rear, and change race back
to streets. Alas, this has made the underside of my rocker panels look
like crumple city.
Anybody got any ideas on:
1. Where else can I jack to bring up the whole side safely?
2. Where to
weld in a jacking plate?
3. What kind of jacking block might spread the
weight along the rocker?
When I worked on a TransAm car, it had a pipe-like attachment welded to the
bottom of the roll cage. The crew would insert a weird-looking plate into the
pipe, and a few quick cranks on the floor jack had the side of the car up in the
air. BMWs have such a pipe attachment (at least, my buddy's 850i has one).
Can we buy a jacking point/plate to weld in?
All suggestions welcome.
Rich
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 21:45:28 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Illegal to coast in neutral??
BUT..you still has positive control if you needed the gas in a hurry.
You'd be surprised what mistakes you can make in an emergency..and shifting
gears/etc could be easily missed or screwed up.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 21:50:14 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Jacking...up
Use a piece of wood about 18" long under the seam..and jack up the
wood.
Distribute the load.
Been doin it for years.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 22:53:42 -0400
From: Vedran <
1994TT@comcast.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Starting Valve Job on my 94 TT
I am about to start taking apart my 94 TT. I have to rebuild the
heads. I have done a lot of stuff on my car since I bought it, but never
took the heads out. I have done 60k service and tune ups. I have
manuals and tools and I just need any advice or tip on the valve job. I am
thinking about getting a 3 angle valve job, since I decided to keep the car as a
toy. What do you guys suggest??? Thanks Ved, 94 Yellow TT.
------------------------------
What do you use:
A 2x4? 2x6?
Would a section of 1x1 angle iron serve
the same purpose?
Rich
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 22:03:39 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Jacking...up
Its from the side of an old BBQ..actually.
1x4, generic wood. Haven't met a car I cant use this on..
PS: Don't look at the jeep, that's _off-road_ damage, not jack
damage. :)
With a towel on it, I can raise the Vette in the middle as well (no seam,
just body panels)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 22:04:30 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: Jacking...up
Don't use iron.
no compliance..let the wood conform to minute differences..the iron may
just mash on the metal too hard, and will NOT grip like the wood would to both
the jack face and the seam.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 23:20:10 -0400
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: socket
for harmonic balancer
That's a good way to crack the bolt-head in half. Seen it happen on too
many customer cars. The 1/2 drive hole in the bolt-head is great for rotating
the engine, not for torquing or loosening the bolt.
Omar
92 r/t
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 23:26:54 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: 3S-Racers: Jacking...up
Rich! Where have you been sitting quiet all these four years!?!! #$%@! I
just slightly damaged one of the rocker panels this week. I did not jack
it
up in my regular spot, where everyone is supposed to be jacking it up.
Instead I jacked it up closer to the center of the car and the thin lip
bent a little.
I used a piece of plywood, but that did not save me. Before I used to jack
it up with and without plywood in the recommended spots and there was no
damage, even if the whole side lifted off the ground. A friend told me
later that there is an extra strip of metal welded into the seam around the
recommended jacking places.
Guys! Follow the instructions! Or use the head and jack up under the front
cross-member or the rear diff. But do not push the car while it is with two
wheels in the air, or you will drop it like I did at Road America. It
landed on a gas tank. My fuel level gauge is now stuck. But the low fuel
level light still comes on like before. :)
Philip
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#155
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