Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, May 14
2003 Volume 02 : Number 154
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 19:29:29 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Piston Rings
Find a place that does oil analysis and have them check a sample for
you.
Jim berry
================================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Chad and Carol Decker" <
carolnchad@earthlink.net>
Sent:
Tuesday, May 13, 2003 5:28 PM
> If my rings are bad wouldn't I be using oil? My oil is always
full
> when I check it. I still haven't decided if it is over full.
I am
> going to keep checking it to decide. I smell a little gas in
my oil
> but not a lot. I was told that synthetic oil had a little
gas smell
> to it. The only symptoms I am having is the carbon
build up in my
> tail pipe and REALLY bad gas mileage. I get 10
mpg. I might have
> more than one problem I really do not
know. However, I am running
> rich (almost positive) and I am not
so sure about the gas in the oil.
> I am just going by
>
smell there. My local grease monkey told me to keep
> check on
the oil to see if it is ever over full. When
> you run rich it can
be caused by several things? With
> what I have commented about my
car can anyone help me? Also, if there
> is not gas in my oil and I
am running rich does that mean I am burning
> it in my exhaust? I
have talked to so many people about this and
> everyone tells me
something different. I am just getting ready to
> roll over to
96,XXX I suppose I will check my fuel filter as soon as
> I can
afford one. In the meantime I will try to get my Talon fixed
>
(clogged catalytic converter) and drive it. My luck w/ my cars have
> been awful this year.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 21:21:31 -0600
From: Gabe Simoes <
Gabe92RTTT@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Need help with Intake leaks
I replaced the hose for the clutch booster and there is no more hoot and no
more leak!!! I now have to replace the right hose for the brake booster
also, but I can't seem to locate on that fits nicely....I assume the one I have
left will be fine considering it has the check valve. Thanks Erik and all
on the list.
Gabe
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Sent:
Tuesday, May 13, 2003 5:53 PM
> > There is a check valve in that hose?? Oh no. I took it off
and
> > replaced it with red silicone ones. Damn hoses!!
lol. I still have
> > it though. So if I sift through my
pile of hoses and blow through
> > each one twice, I should find
it? I will check the manual now.
> >
Thanks!!!!!
>
> Hi Gabe,
>
> Yep, that would be your
problem :-) If you can't figure out which one
> it is, lemme know
and I'll send you a picture. It should have some
> foam padding
around most of it.
>
> Make sure you didn't replace the hose that
has the check valve for the
> brake booster, too! That one connects
to the rear of the plenum right
> by the throttle body and runs to a hard
pipe attached to the firewall.
> The check valve is in the hose that
attaches to the plenum.
>
> --Erik
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 20:30:44 -0700
From: John Sheehan <
johns@kyso.com>
Subject: Team3S: Dealer
Recall recommendations
I have my 93 VR4 back on the road and now need to take it in for the
Recall check.
Which dealership would people recommend in the San Jose/ Santa Cruz
California area ??
Thanx, John
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 23:47:51 -0400
From: "Joseph Spainhour" <
spainhou@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Intake pressure test
Hello all,
With all of the talk about intake leaks, I would like to do a
pressure test. I do not have a normal air compressor, but I do have one of those
tire inflators. Will this work?
Joseph
93 3KGT VR4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 21:54:08 -0600
From: Gabe Simoes <
Gabe92RTTT@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Intake pressure test
Joseph,
No a tire pump will not work. You need an air source sufficient for
driving air tools...in other words, a decent air compressor. Invest in
that and a pressure tester. It is the best problem shooter for intake
leaks. I had 10 intake leaks and would have never found them without the
intake pressure tester. That thing is like gold!!
Gabe
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Joseph Spainhour" <
spainhou@bellsouth.net>
Sent:
Tuesday, May 13, 2003 9:47 PM
> Hello all,
>
> With all of the talk about
intake leaks, I would like to do a
> pressure test. I do not have a normal
air compressor, but I do have
> one of those tire inflators. Will this
work?
>
> Joseph
> 93 3KGT VR4
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 00:00:48 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Piston Rings
Is the car performing poorly? Slow to accelerate, building lots of boost,
but going nowhere? If so, it could be excessive lifter noise (ticking, which the
ECU can pick up as knock, and retard your timing). Or could even be carbon built
up in your valves/combustion chambers. Lifter tick can sometimes be solved by
using an OEM Mitsubishi oil filter and synthetic (which you are running).
The carbon can be cleaned with the proper application of Mopar Combustion
Chamber Conditioner, available at your local Dodge Dealer, or even Conicelli
Mitsubishi (
www.partznet.com ).
The other thing I suggest is, check your knock with a datalogger of some
sort. If you get a lot of counts of knock for no apparent reason, your knock
sensor can be faulty. It's located under the intake plenum, in the "valley" on
these cars as far as I can remember. On Talon/Eclipse/Lasers, the knock sensors
routinely go bad... my opinion is they go bad because they are placed
vertically, and the dampening goop gets hot or contaminated when the engine is
cleaned, or by oil spray. This causes it to get very hyperactive, and feeding a
signal to the ECU that looks like knock, but really may not be. On the 3/S cars,
it's mostly horizontal, but I guess it too can go bad.
OR it could be real knock, what octane are you using? should be 91 or
above.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 23:46:46 -0700
From: Admin-Team3S <
bforrest@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Dealer Recall recommendations
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "John Sheehan" <
johns@kyso.com>
> I have my 93 VR4
back on the road and now need to take it in for the
> Recall check.
Which dealership would people recommend in the San
> Jose/ Santa Cruz
California area ??
> Thanx, John
-
--------------------------->
Geoff & Nissa used to go to the Mitsubishi Dealer at 750 West Capitol
Expressway in SJ...
- ---Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 01:39:14 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S:
crankshaft position sensor looks bad
Symptoms: No Spark
Sorry to make this post kind of long, but I found nothing in the archives
or other 3S boards relating to a crankshaft position sensor problem.
I ran through the shop manual diagnosis up and down for "no start
condition". Since I didn't have an oscilloscope, I had to save the test of
the crank & cam position sensors for last. Today I borrowed my
friend's oscilloscope. The cam sensor output gives the square wave
0<x<5 volts that it's supposed to. The crank sensor does not.
It looks like I've got a bad crank sensor (even though I replaced mine only
8,000 miles ago). Now I've got a crazy idea.
How about if I connect the camshaft position sensor to the crank sensor
input on the ECU? According to the shop manual, the car does not require a
cam position sensor to run. Clearly, the camshaft will be spinning at the
wrong speed and therefore will not give the ECU an timing to fire the plugs.
However, if I hear any combustion whatsoever (even if it's just backfires out
the intake) then I'll know for sure that the crankshaft sensor is bad and the
rest of the ignition system is good. The reason I got this idea is because I
want to be _absolutely sure_ that the crank sensor is bad since it takes so long
to get to it. I'm already almost 100% sure that it's the culprit since it is not
producing the characteristic square wave... but I'd feel like a real idiot if I
ripped my car apart, replaced the sensor, and nothing happened. I
practically need to remove everything that is normally required for the 60k
tune-up just to reach this sensor!
Regardless, I don't want to do something that could potentially harm my
car. Both sensors are three-wire with similar color coding. If I remember
correctly, the cam spins slower than the crank which means the sparks will fire
less frequently than when running on the crank sensor. I'd be more worried
about damaging my car if it was firing faster than spec.
Any input would be appreciated.
Riyan
------------------------------
Could somebody please explain to me how these recalls work? Does
Mitsubishi recall vehicles when faults are identified and if so who covers the
cost? Is Japanese imports part of a recall process or is it in the country
of car assembly?
Thanks, I just want to ensure I'm not missing something.
Cheers
Doug
1990 Mitsubishi GTO
------------------------------
I don't have the know how to do this myself. Does anyone know of a
reputable place in the VA Hampton Roads area where I can take my car to get
serviced. I've been quoted anywhere from $780 - $850 by the local dealers for
just the timing belt and water pump. Is this reasonable?
Thanks,
Mike
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 11:24:49 -0700
From: Steve Hennigar <
garpike@chartermi.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Aftermarket pressure gauge
Thank you for the help regarding the TCM problem on my 92 R/T automatic.
After 3 weeks of waiting for the shop guys to find the proper
diagnostic equipment, the diagnosis was precisely what the list
responders suggested. A little easier and cheaper problem to correct
than the $4500.00 for a new transmission that the dealer stated as the
solution.
Next question- When purchased, my 92 TT had an aftermarket boost
gauge
mounted in the glove box. I would like to re-mount it on the A
pillar.
Can I simply re-route the connections to the different
location? Or is
there some hidden problem with disconnecting and
reconnecting this gauge?
Any help is surely welcome.
Steve Hennigar
92 R/T, 92 TT
------------------------------
Last weekend, while preparing to install my new clutch, I re-installed my
fuel injectors with new insulators and o-rings after I sent them out for
cleaning and balancing. I also installed a new knock sensor. I re-used the 2
intake manifold gaskets and intake plenum gasket, as they had already been
replaced within the last 9 months. I also installed a new throttle-body gasket.
The car was down for 2 weeks with the battery disconnected.
Now that I've got the car on the road again, the engine won't idle
properly. It's not the problem where the engine stalls when you let off the
throttle, that's not the case. But the idle speed is erratic and won't settle
down to a smooth idle. And at cruise with no load, the car bucks quite a bit.
It's as if the engine is running lean, however, the engine vacuum pressure,
EGT's, and O2 readings all appear to be where they were before the tear-down.
And at WOT, the car runs great and boosts correctly. If I over-richen the fuel
mix at idle, the engine smoothes out momentarily until the ECU adjusts and leans
the mix back out to where the lights on the air-fuel gauges are dithering
again.
I then did a pressure test, found minimal leaks, and fixed them. I also
re-installed the old throttle-body gasket, but ended up putting the new one back
on because there was no change. I oriented the gasket as instructed in the
manual, removed and cleaned the AIS motor, and adjusted the air bypass screw on
the TB. I removed the plenum again, checked the gasket, and re-installed it. I
double-checked the electrical connectors on the injectors to make sure they were
tight. I also sprayed carb cleaner around all the gaskets with the engine
running, but there was no change in idle speed. And just in case, I checked the
timing marks on the camshaft sprockets and they all line up.
I put about an hour of run time on the engine since I re-connected the
battery, then disconnected it again, and have put another 45 minutes on it since
then. I was hoping that maybe the ECU just needed to re-learn, but the idle
condition has not changed.
What have I missed? What else can I check? Should I remove everything down
to the knock sensor again and start over? Any ideas?
Sorry for the long post, but wanted you to have all the facts first.
Jeff W.
'92VR4
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 09:51:30 -0600
From: Gabe Simoes <
Gabe92RTTT@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Aftermarket pressure gauge
Concerning the boost gauge. You can reroute. You will have to
reroute it through the other firewall entry on the drivers side as it was
probably routed through the passenger one. Just make sure the vacuum line
and all wiring is long enough. Should be no problems.
Gabe
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Hennigar" <
garpike@chartermi.net>
Sent:
Wednesday, May 14, 2003 12:24 PM
> Thank you for the help regarding the TCM problem on my 92 R/T
>
automatic. After 3 weeks of waiting for the shop guys to find the
>
proper diagnostic equipment, the diagnosis was precisely what the list
>
responders suggested. A little easier and cheaper problem to correct
> than the $4500.00 for a new transmission that the dealer stated as the
> solution.
>
> Next question- When purchased, my 92 TT
had an aftermarket boost
> gauge mounted in the glove box. I would
like to re-mount it on the A
> pillar. Can I simply re-route the
connections to the different
> location? Or is there some hidden
problem with disconnecting and
> reconnecting this gauge?
>
>
Any help is surely welcome.
>
> Steve Hennigar
> 92 R/T, 92
TT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 10:01:24 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Problem with Erratic Idle
Wow, Jeff, you covered just about everything I was going to mention:
* TB Gasket on backwards (double-check that)
* IAC Motor going
wacko
* TB Bypass passages clogged
* Idle Adj. Screw not
adjusted
* Vacuum leak (got a pressure tester?)
The last thing I was going to mention was the Throttle Position Sensor
(TPS) and the Closed Throttle Position Switch. The pages of the service
manual for these are 13A-221 and 13A-223. They are both contained in the
black plastic housing on the front of the throttle body, and there are 4 pins on
the connector. If the CTPS (pins 3 and 4) does not read closed when the
throttle is closed, the ECU may not properly maintain idle. On my car, the
primary symptom was a 1200RPM idle speed when everything else checked out
ok.
I also looked at page 13A-52 of the FSM, and there is a master
troubleshooting guide for the MFI system. It lists likely causes of rough
idling as:
1) IAC Motor
2) Injectors
3) CTPS
4) Fuel Pressure
5) IAT
Sensor
6) Coolant Temp Sensor
7) Barometric Pressure Sensor
8) Evap
Purge Solenoid
9) Fuel Press Solenoid
10) O2 Sensor
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 14:39:14 -0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: crankshaft position sensor looks bad
Why don't you trust your oscilloscope?
The car won't run from a cam sensor without a cam signal. Don't know about
the 1st gen, but the 2nd gen won't even fire. I think it disables either the
spark or the injectors.
You could try connecting the cam signal output to both cam and crank. Also,
your oscilloscope might be able to generate a 5V square signal for you to try to
feed into the ECU to make it think you have a working crank sensor.
Get a voltmeter and see if you are sending that 5V or 12V to the sensor,
whatever it needs to operate,
Philip
------------------------------
> But the idle speed is erratic and won't
settle down to a
smooth idle. It seems to lope a bit, but inconsistently. And at cruise with no
load, the car bucks quite a bit. It's as if the engine is running lean, however,
the engine vacuum pressure, EGT's, and O2 readings all appear to be where they
were before the tear-down. And at WOT, the car runs great and boosts correctly.
If I over-richen the fuel mix at idle, the engine smoothes out momentarily until
the ECU adjusts and leans the mix back out to where the lights on the air-fuel
gauges are dithering again.
> 10) O2 Sensor
I was thinking it could be one of the O2 sensors too. Otherwise, why would
the ECU adjust the A/F to something that the engine does not like? Try
disconnecting those O2 sensors and running open-loop all the time. Do not boost
while at that.
I have my old O2 sensors out if you want to try them.
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 09:51:30 -0600
From: Gabe Simoes <
Gabe92RTTT@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Aftermarket pressure gauge
Concerning the boost gauge. You can reroute. You will have to
reroute it through the other firewall entry on the drivers side as it was
probably routed through the passenger one. Just make sure the vacuum line
and all wiring is long enough. Should be no problems.
Gabe
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Hennigar" <
garpike@chartermi.net>
Sent:
Wednesday, May 14, 2003 12:24 PM
> Thank you for the help regarding the TCM problem on my 92 R/T
>
automatic. After 3 weeks of waiting for the shop guys to find the
>
proper diagnostic equipment, the diagnosis was precisely what the list
>
responders suggested. A little easier and cheaper problem to correct
> than the $4500.00 for a new transmission that the dealer stated as the
> solution.
>
> Next question- When purchased, my 92 TT
had an aftermarket boost
> gauge mounted in the glove box. I would
like to re-mount it on the A
> pillar. Can I simply re-route the
connections to the different
> location? Or is there some hidden
problem with disconnecting and
> reconnecting this gauge?
>
>
Any help is surely welcome.
>
> Steve Hennigar
> 92 R/T, 92
TT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 09:40:46 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Intake pressure test
> No a tire pump will not work. You need an air source
>
sufficient for driving air tools...in other words,
> a decent air
compressor.
Another option (what I do, since air tools are not in the budget now) is to
buy one of those small 5-gal air tanks (Sears, Home Depot, or any auto
parts
store) and take it to a gas station with an air hose. I fill up
the tank, and that's plenty to do intake pressure testing. It's also
useful for dusting/drying things and to take to the track when you need to
increase your tire pressures as part of tuning your suspension.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 16:37:03 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Intake pressure test
What method do you all use for conducting an intake pressure test?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik
[mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2003 12:41 PM
> No a tire pump will not work. You need an air source
>
sufficient for driving air tools...in other words,
> a decent air
compressor.
Another option (what I do, since air tools are not in the budget now) is to
buy one of those small 5-gal air tanks (Sears, Home Depot, or any auto
parts
store) and take it to a gas station with an air hose. I fill up
the tank, and that's plenty to do intake pressure testing. It's also
useful for dusting/drying things and to take to the track when you need to
increase your tire pressures as part of tuning your suspension.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 15:42:07 -0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Intake pressure test
3sx has one they sell for $60; otherwise Jeff L. has a nice write up on
making your own.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Starkey, Jr., Joseph
[mailto:starkeyje@bipc.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2003 3:37 PM
>What method do you all use for conducting an intake pressure
test?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 16:56:00 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Question on performing Intake pressure test
When you perform an intake pressure test, does the engine need to be in any
particular position, i.e., must all the intake valves be closed? Or
doesn't it matter?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 17:01:28 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Question on performing Intake pressure test
> When you perform an intake pressure test, does the engine need to be
> in any particular position, i.e., must all the intake valves be
> closed? Or doesn't it matter?
It'll usually come to rest with at least one set of valves per cylinder
closed (either intake or exhaust). If it sounds like it is leaking out
through the exhaust, give it a crank to align it to another position. I've
never had mine stop in a position where there's intake/exhaust valve overlap
though.
If you just plug in a tester into the rubber section where the MAF
attaches, make sure you take off the EGR hose from that rubber piece and plug
the nipple. The tester I made replaces that section and attaches to the
two turbo intake tubes, negating that problem (as well as being able to test the
BOV holding pressure).
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
why not? it worked for me.. exactly how much pressure are you
trying to test for??? I pressurized my system to 25psi with a bicycle tire
hand
pump. WAY more than I'll ever run.. so in other words,
a tire
inflator will work fine. of course this assumes you're just
trying to
pressurize the system between the turbos and the throttle body
(including the intercoolers). are you talking about doing leakdown
tests? I haven't read all the posts word for word, so just ignore me if
I'm confused here..
+> Joseph,
+>
+> No a tire pump will not work. You
need an air source sufficient for
+> driving air tools...in other words,
a decent air compressor. Invest
+> in that and a pressure
tester. It is the best problem shooter for
+> intake leaks. I
had 10 intake leaks and would have never found them
+> without the intake
pressure tester. That thing is like gold!!
+>
+> Gabe
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 15:54:47 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Intake pressure test
I would think a tire pump would work IF you had no leaks --- a substantial
leak would be difficult to find with the small volume of air introduced by a
tire pump.
Jim Berry
==============================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave" <
monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
>
> why not? it worked for me.. exactly how much pressure are
you trying
> to test for??? I pressurized my system to 25psi with a
bicycle tire hand
> pump. WAY more than I'll ever run..
so in other words, a tire
> inflator will work fine. of course this
assumes you're just trying to
> pressurize the system between the turbos
and the throttle body (including
> the intercoolers). are you
talking about doing leakdown tests? I haven't
> read all the posts
word for word, so just ignore me if I'm confused here..
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 19:17:15 -0400
From: "Ken Lovell" <
wklovell@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Gauges
I'm starting to consider mods for my '97 VR4, but before I go very far I
think I will need to upgrade/add gauges. I eventually hope to upgrade the
exhaust and add larger turbos with supporting mods (injectors, fuel pump
etc.). I may end up at the track occasionally, but it will not be
frequent. I need to keep the car looking as stock as possible (to keep my
wife happy), and so am looking at the 3SX dual gauges. Has anyone had
experience (positive and negative) with them? They are listed at:
http://www.3sxperformance.com/gauges.asp.
Any suggestions for other gauges that give a lot of information without
adding an A-pillar or strapping things to the dash board?
Also, what should I make sure I have? Right now I'm thinking:
1. Boost
2. EGT
3. Oil Pressure
4. Temp
5. A/F
6. Oil
Temp?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Ken
'97 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 16:53:21 -0700
From: "Grd4Spd Racing" <
grd4spdracing@cox.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Gauges
looks like Westach.
I have not done any business with them have chatted
with them. I was interested in them myself. their product looks good to me
-
regards,
terry
"If it doesn't make you go fast, we don't sell it"
Grd4Spd Racing -
www.grd4spd.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 20:34:02 -0400
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Team3s: 60k service
That's actually a pretty good rate. You're looking at ~$400 in parts and at
least 4 hours in labor (most shops will want closer to 8), seems like they're
asking for 5 @ $80/hr which is quite reasonable. If you're confident in their
competency, that is a pretty reasonable price...
I don't have the know how to do this myself. Does anyone know of a
reputable place in the VA Hampton Roads area where I can take my car to get
serviced. I've been quoted anywhere from $780 - $850 by the local dealers for
just the timing belt and water pump. Is this reasonable?
Thanks,
Mike
------------------------------
Quite a few of the DSM guys like these gauges. Never used them
myself, but I've heard they are quite accurate.
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 18:52:47 -0600
From: Janice Findlay <
jefind@shaw.ca>
Subject: Team3S:
wheels
I have a 93 Dodge Stealth with 17's on it right now and I want to go with a
19 instead will that work with the Intrax lowering springs or do I have to go
with an 18. How rough will the ride be with 19's as apposed to 18's Thanks
Andrew
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 17:53:14 -0700
From: "Grd4Spd Racing" <
grd4spdracing@cox.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Gauges
> Quite a few of the DSM guys like these gauges. Never used them
> myself, but I've heard they are quite accurate.
yes, I would suspect they would be considering they are aircraft gauges. I
also like the dual gauge feature, cuts down on clutter. :)
regards,
terry
"If it doesn't make you go fast, we don't sell it"
Grd4Spd Racing -
www.grd4spd.com
------------------------------
If you drive it daily, you will regret 19" wheels. 19's are for show.
18's are great for the street though, assuming you can avoid potholes
decently...
Either will work, however...
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 May 2003 20:29:37 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: wheels
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Janice Findlay" <
jefind@shaw.ca>
> I have a 93 Dodge
Stealth with 17's on it right now and I want to go
> with a 19 instead
will that work with the Intrax lowering springs or
> do I have to go with
an 18. How rough will the ride be with 19's as
> apposed to
18's
> Thanks Andrew
- ---------------------------------->
Janice-- The rough ride (that you won't notice much on good
roads with 18's)
is not the main concern-- less rubber and air transmit
road shock *first* to the wheels themselves..., before you even feel it.
I'll repeat my answer to Dunmire from 3 days ago...:
Hey, Dunmire,
Yes it's been done, but not very often. If the
diameter is the same, you won't have a problem with fit or steering. It's
a pretty look, but if you actually *drive* your car on real roads with hazards
and potholes, you will be disappointed. Not only are the wheels and tires
*very* expensive, but the first big bump you hit at speed will trash the wheels
beyond repair. One on-track spin at Laguna Seca cost me 2 bent 18x10
wheels (265/35 rubber), then a month later I lost 3- 18x9 rims (also 265/35) on
a main highway that had a poorly-graded area between different height
surfaces. Loss: $2000 in 2 months. I've since switched to 245/40R18
to put more rubber between the wheel and the road when driving on the
street. On the track, I won't use even 18's, even though the handling is
outstanding; 19's would be out of the question. If you're making a show
car, you'll love 19" wheels. Otherwise, IMO, you're making an expensive
mistake. Best,
- ---Forrest
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#154
***************************************