Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, May 13
2003 Volume 02 : Number 153
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 17:16:49 -0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need help with Intake leaks
> 1. My TurboXS RFL is leaking under any pressure. It pours out
suds
> when I spray it. I increased the washers from 3 to 5 but
no
> difference...is it supposed to do leak air??
Try opening the throttle when doing your pressure test. Or you could
pressurize the vacuum line that goes into the BOV. The TurboXS, like most
other BOVs, relies on pressure differential across the throttle to properly
actuate the valve. When you have 15 PSI before the throttle and 0 PSI
after, you're simulating the condition under which the BOV is designed to
open. Without the 15PSI that would normally be seen after the throttle
when driving, the BOV will leak. Heck, my TurboXS H-34 leaks air just when
idling. :)
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 18:29:56 -0600
From: Gabe Simoes <
Gabe92RTTT@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Intake Plenum Gasket
The metal plenum gasket should be fine for more than a few spark plug
changes as long as it is not bent or misformed.
Gabe
> Hello everyone,
>
> During a complete spark plug change
for anyone who has done themselves
> or know how its done. The intake
plenum must come off I know to get to
> the plugs in the back I know, but
does the gasket have to be replaced
> in order to put it back on? My new
mechanic told me I will need a new
> intake plenum gasket after I change
the plugs, any truth to this. I
> have a SOHC engine.
>
> ---
Marven Lamarre
> ---
neoblackjack21@earthlink.net>
--- '92 Dodge Stealth - "Catch Me If You Can"
------------------------------
Marven,
You don't need to remove the intake plenum to change the rear spark plugs
on a SOHC engine. You can just reach behind the engine and do it without having
to remove anything at all.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 17:05:17 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Need help with Intake leaks
> 2. This one is a little more complicated. I pressurized the
system to
> 15psi and everything seems fine, then I start to hear this
steady
> "hooooooot" sound coming from the rear of the engine bay.
It turns out
> air is blasting into the cabin from the clutch boot just
behind the
> clutch pedal.
This sounds like the check valve (one-way valve) on your clutch booster
hose is either defective, missing, or installed backwards. If you remove
the booster hose (3/8"ID hose attached to the driver's rear corner of the
plenum) and blow through it, it should allow air to travel into the plenum, but
it should not allow air to flow out of the plenum. It may be as simple as
the hose being installed backwards.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 20:35:27 -0600
From: Gabe Simoes <
Gabe92RTTT@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Intake Plenum Gasket
No you have to remove the plenum to change them....well not remove it.
Disconnect the EGR if you have one, y-pipe, unbolt the plenum and prop it up by
wedging a screwdriver in between it and the lower intake plenum. Easy
access that way. Takes me 10 minutes to change spark plugs, but you
shouldn't need a gasket, get one in case you are weary....$10 from Mitsu.
> Marven,
>
> You don't need to remove the intake plenum to
change the rear spark
> plugs on a SOHC engine. You can just reach behind
the engine and do it
> without having to remove anything at all.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 20:37:17 -0600
From: Gabe Simoes <
Gabe92RTTT@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Need help with Intake leaks
There is a check valve in that hose?? Oh no. I took it off and
replaced it with red silicone ones. Damn hoses!! lol. I still
have it though. So if I sift through my pile of hoses and blow through
each one twice, I should find it? I will check the manual now.
Thanks!!!!!
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Sent: Monday,
May 12, 2003 6:05 PM
> > 2. This one is a little more complicated. I pressurized the
system
> > to 15psi and everything seems fine, then I start to hear
this steady
> > "hooooooot" sound coming from the rear of the egine
bay. It turns
> > out air is blasting into the cabin from the
clutch boot just behind
> > the clutch pedal.
>
> This
sounds like the check valve (one-way valve) on your clutch
> booster hose
is either defective, missing, or installed backwards. If
> you
remove the booster hose (3/8"ID hose attached to the driver's rear
>
corner of the plenum) and blow through it, it should allow air to
>
travel into the plenum, but it should not allow air to flow out of the
>
plenum. It may be as simple as the hose being installed
backwards.
>
> --Erik
> '95 VR-4
www.team3s.com/~egross
------------------------------
Mike actually I just had a similar problem with the SRS
light. Funny I went to the same dealer and they treated me pretty
decent. Freehold NJ. Anyways I think part of the reason is because I buy a
lot of parts from them. Well I've had a lot of experience with the SRS
light. Its a pain what year is your car? Apparently the only way to
reset some of them is with the dealers computer. At this point I don't
have the desire or MONEY to buy the diagnostic unit. They can run you
about 500 bux or more unless someone knows where to get a pretty decent one that
will work with Mitsubishi and read and reset the air bag. Here's the scoop
try turning your ignition key from off to on 10 times don't start the car.
This will clear out a few of the codes I don't remember all of them off the top
of my head. Their are some listed on the Team3s website. If the light is
still on then what probably happened is the airbag or clock spring have a bad
connection. What this does is leaves a few codes in your main computer that
cannot be cleared out without a diagnostic unit at least on my 1991. If
they cleared these codes and the SRS light is still on then you will probably
have to replace what is causing the problem. Did they tell you what error
codes they found? Here's my suggestion. This is not the most legal
way but you can get air bag parts for less than 1/3 of a dealers price.
Just look around online. Hopefully you don't have to get to this
point. Other idea is an aftermarket wheel but I personally like to have
the airbag in my car. Try the 10 thing first I can get into more detail later if
needed. Their are a couple of other things you can check if your a do it
yourself person. You have to be extra careful though when checking airbag stuff
don't want that sucker blowing out on you. It would help if you had the
error codes the dealer found.
Darius
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 11:04:43 -0400
From: "Dunkin" <
dunkin@netcarrier.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Overheating . . .
Overheating sounds like your Water Pump. Had
it replaced recently? Could be on its way out.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 21:07:05 -0600
From: Gabe Simoes <
Gabe92RTTT@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Need help with Intake leaks
My hoses didn't come with any instructions. :-( What other hoses are
supposed to have check valves in them? I have one more sitting in the pile
that has a check valve. Where might it go?.....it seems like it would
mimic the shape of the hose going from the nipple on the rear turbo intake hose
to somewhere near the CAS. Other than that I can't find where to put it.
Should the 3/8" hose coming from the back of the manifold have a check
valve?
Thanks,
Gabe
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott J. Cowan" <
sjc0u812@wi.rr.com>
Sent: Monday, May
12, 2003 8:40 PM
> Gabe:
>
> You must be very careful which hoses you change
with the silicone
> hoses -- you cannot do them all -- read the
instructions carefully.
> And yes, that one has a green stripe on it and
clicks when you shake
> it! Also be sure not to put it in
backwards.
>
> Best,
>
> SJ
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 11:13:36 -0400
From: "Dunkin" <
dunkin@netcarrier.com>
Subject:
Team3S: working on airbag
NOTE: If you plan to do any checking of your
airbag. Wait at least 30 seconds to a minute after disconnecting the
battery. Their is a delay in case your battery gets crunched in an
accident so the airbag can still deploy without a battery connection.
Basically wait at least 60 seconds after disconnecting the battery to be safe
before tampering with the airbag. And don't do any measurements on the airbag
itself no ohm meters or anything like that. An ohm meter doesn't throw
much current through but it could be just enough to deploy the air bag. I
think its around 2 amps to deploy an air bag but who knows what a few milliamps
from an ohm meter could do. Wouldn't want to chance it.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 20:28:07 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
3S-Racers: Do we have an airbag fuse?
Book shows multifunction [ shared ??? ] fuses numbers 11 and 18 as being
associated with the SRS.
> On a related topic, I was trying to locate an air bag fuse yesterday
> but could not find it. Do we have a fuse for that? If yes, where is
> it?
>
> I realized how lucky I was that my airbag did not
pop when I crashed
> into a tire wall at Road America! :-)
>
> Philip
------------------------------
Darius-
>From now on don't buy any parts from them. I have already looked
>around. The 714 dollar airbag price they quoted was ridiculous when I
>called around and found it for 530 dollars. If you want the numbers for
>these lower dealers E-mail me privately.
The car has never had a collision. So why would this happen? If
anyone has
the complete diagram of the airbag system for our cars I would
appreciate it.
I've already tried the 10 times idea and that didn't work.
My trusted mechanic has told me that 9 times out of 10 the bags will work
with the light on. 1400$ is a ridiculous amount that I just cant get
over or
afford. For a problem that wasn't my fault.
Mike
97 SL
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 12:12:45 -0400
From: "Dunkin" <
dunkin@netcarrier.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Another air bag check
> Oh yea sometimes low voltage from your car battery can cause an air
> bag error code in these cars. Try checking your battery
voltage.
> 12Volts is normal but anything under I think 8 volts
will flag an SRS
> code and illuminate your SRS light.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 00:12:53 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: 3S-Racers: Do we have an airbag fuse?
Owner's manual or the service manual? Also, which fuse box, I think we have
at least two, maybe three of them.
Philip
At 11:28 PM 5/12/2003, fastmax wrote:
>Book shows multifunction [
shared ??? ] fuses numbers 11 and 18 as
>being associated with the
SRS.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 22:00:16 -0500 (CDT)
From: Chad and Carol Decker
<
carolnchad@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Fuel Injectors
If I were going to replace my fuel injectors what else would I need to
replace along with them? Also, if they are just clogged I have heard about
cleaning them? How does that work? Which would be best...cleaning or
replacing? I am running stock turbos. If I were getting gas in my
oil would the fuel injector pressure regulator be to blame...possibly? Is
there any way to test it? thanks, Carol Decker 1991 Stealth R/T TT AWD
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 21:58:11 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Airbag
I just looked up the part in CAPS and checked Rockville Mitsu and they
showed a price of $440 for the air bag.
Jim
Berry
===========================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: <
M3000GTSL84@aol.com>
Sent: Monday,
May 12, 2003 8:52 PM
> Darius-
>
> >From now on don't buy any parts from
them. I have already looked
> >around. The 714 dollar airbag
price they quoted was ridiculous when I
> >called around and found it
for 530 dollars. If you want the numbers
> >for these lower dealers
E-mail me privately.
>
> The car has never had a collision. So why
would this happen? If
> anyone has
> the complete diagram of
the airbag system for our cars I would appreciate it.
> I've already
tried the 10 times idea and that didn't work.
>
> My trusted
mechanic has told me that 9 times out of 10 the bags will
> work
>
with the light on. 1400$ is a ridiculous amount that I just cant get over
or
> afford. For a problem that wasn't my fault.
>
>
Mike
> 97 SL
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 22:13:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: menalteed <
menalteed@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: airbag light
This may sound way to simple, but when my light would
not go out I read
in the owners manual that sometimes
you need to reset it, I don't have a
manual here at
the moment but I believe what I had to do was turn
the
key on and off about twelve times and it fixed it...peter
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 22:08:48 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: 3S-Racers: Do we have an airbag fuse?
I looked in the CD version of the manual page 52B-7 --- the schematic just
refers to them as multipurpose fuses 11 and 18. I kind of assume it's the
interior fuse box since I don't think there are 18 fuses in the other one. If
you don't have a copy I could probably print the page then scan it and send it
to you.
Jim
Berry
=============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Sent: Monday, May
12, 2003 9:12 PM
> Owner's manual or the service manual? Also, which fuse box, I think
we
> have at least two, maybe three of them.
>
> Philip
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 00:01:50 -0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Throttle Body Diameter?
I wasn't able to find anything on how big the throttle body's I.D. is, what
size is it? Also does anyone know of a place that makes a larger TB or would
that not help any? Donald Ashby '93 3000GT VR-4 (RIP) "Don't drink and park,
accidents cause people!"
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 03:29:55 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Fuel Injectors
Gas in the oil comes from two reasons - leaky piston rings and running
rich, or an injector staying open during idle. The fuel pressure regulator
would be one of my last suspicions if gas in the oil is the case. If you
need to replace injectors, staying with the stock size, there is nothing else to
do. If you go with larger injectors, you will need at minimum a fuel
controller like the Apex'i S-AFC. (My brother just put the S-AFC2 in his
Talon and it's quite nice, programmable knock alarms and everything). I
will prolly sell my S-AFC in trade for the newer one... (has quite a few
more functions) You can have any fuel injection specialty place clean
them, or send them to RC Engineering to have them cleaned.
- -Cody
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chad and Carol Decker
>
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2003 10:00 PM
>
> If I were going to replace
my fuel injectors what else would I need to
> replace along with
them? Also, if they are just clogged I have heard
> about cleaning
them? How does that work? Which would be
> best...cleaning or
replacing? I am running stock turbos.
>
> If I were getting
gas in my oil would the fuel injector pressure
> regulator be to
blame...possibly? Is there any way to test it?
> thanks, Carol
Decker
> 1991 Stealth R/T TT AWD
------------------------------
The Team3S page of high resolution artwork for 3KGT models from 1994 to
1999 and the 1994 Stealth is now complete.
I big "Thank You" goes out to Bob Forrest for putting the page together
from artwork I submitted to him earlier.
You can find the page here:
Enjoy.
Slayton
------------------------------
I did my plugs about three weeks ago. You don't need to remove the intake
plenum or anything else. Just get a short extension, and there is plenty of room
back there.
Mike Guy
92 Stealth SOHC
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gabe Simoes
[mailto:Gabe92RTTT@comcast.net]
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2003 10:35 PM
No you have to remove the plenum to change them....well not remove it.
Disconnect the EGR if you have one, y-pipe, unbolt the plenum and prop it up by
wedging a screwdriver in between it and the lower intake plenum. Easy
access that way. Takes me 10 minutes to change spark plugs, but you
shouldn't need a gasket, get one in case you are weary....$10 from Mitsu.
------------------------------
Sounds like the check valve is leaking. The valve is designed to allow for
air flow in one direction only, which prevents boost pressure from entering the
clutch booster. After time, these can go bad. The check valve is located in the
large vacuum hose that is connected rear driver's side of the intake plenum. You
can remove that hose, hook an air nozzle up to it, and see if air flows in both
directions at high pressure. If so, the valve is bad. This valve and hose are
only available as an assembly. There is a similar valve/hose for the brake
booster. It connects to the rear of the intake plenum near the throttle body.
Wouldn't hurt to check it too.
Jeff W.
>From: Gabe Simoes <
Gabe92RTTT@comcast.net>
>....snip....
>2.
This one is a little more complicated. I pressurized the system to
>15psi and everything seems fine, then I start to hear this steady
>"hooooooot" sound coming from the rear of the egine bay. It turns
out
>air is blasting into the cabin from the clutch boot just behind the
>clutch pedal. If I push the clutch in, it lessens, but is still
there.
>Within a half a minute the system is only holding about 4psi. I
know
>the clutch is vacuum assist so what is causing it to leak like
this?
>How do I fix it?
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 09:06:00 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: SRS light/ bad dealer
Did your battery discharge lately? If so, it set a low voltage fault
code. Did you try the key trick? Switch the ignition on and off
about 30 consecutive times (don't start the car-just switch the ignition), and
see if it resets. If that doesn't work, then you need to have the dealer
shut the light off. If your battery discharged, take it to another dealer
and tell them your battery discharged and set the SRS code. There's a TSB
on it if the dealer has any questions.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.com
[mailto:M3000GTSL84@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2003 12:01 AM
My local mechanic tried to diagnose my SRS light. He wasn't able to, so I
had
to take it to my dealership. They to had alot of trouble, and said that
they
know only that the driver side airbag was emitting the signal.
They recommend
I replace the airbag and clockspring, just to be on the safe
side. That's only
going to be $1,400 dollars, for something that might not
fix the problem.
The car wasn't even in an accident.
Has anyone else had this problem with not being able to diagnose the
SRS
light?
Also, I believe someone on the list keeps up a list of good and bad
dealers.
I definitely have a "bad dealership" located in Freehold, NJ. If
that person
wants any details please feel free to contact me.
thanx for the help if any can comes to mind
Mike
97 SL
------------------------------
come on now, it only costs <$10 at the dealer and you don't want it to
leak.
Chuck Willis
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gabe Simoes
[mailto:Gabe92RTTT@comcast.net]
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2003 7:30 PM
The metal plenum gasket should be fine for more than a few spark plug
changes as long as it is not bent or misformed.
Gabe
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 13:34:18 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Throttle Body Diameter?
Check p. 11E-12 (6G7 section) in the Engine Overhaul Manual (available from
Vinny Singh on the Manual on CD). It is 60 mm or 2.362" - all years all 6G72,
DOHC, SOHC, or turbo DOHC. Of course, you could always just remove the Y-pipe
and measure it. :)
I think Bob Stirling (OhioSpyderman on 3si) makes a larger ID TB, as does
RC Engineering (?).
I have yet to be convinced that slightly enlarging 3" of pipe that goes
immediately into the relatively large plenum improves volumetric efficiency of
our *turbocharged* engines. NA engines are another story. One could argue that
the slightly higher velocities in the stock TB in the turbo engine, as opposed
to the slightly slower velocities in a bored TB, may actually facilitate flow,
and possibly more-even distribution between runners, in the plenum.
I wasn't able to find anything on how big the throttle body's I.D. is, what
size is it? Also does anyone know of a place that makes a larger TB or would
that not help any? Donald Ashby
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 13:37:34 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Intake plenum vacuum fitting size...
I have not checked the threads on the clutch booster hose nipple. But there
is a hex fitting on the nipple so it should not be a big deal to remove and
identify the threads. My web page below shows how to ID the threads if they are
metric (I don't think there are any Imperial/SAE threads on our factory
Nagoya-built cars - could be wrong about that, though).
If a pipe thread, look for a tapered diameter on the threads. According to
the service manuals, Mitsu does use a few pipe threads (I haven't seen where
yet). No bigger than the nipple is, if it is a pipe thread I might guess 1/8 NPT
which has 27 threads per inch. 1/4 NPT has 18 threads per inch. For diameters,
the drill size (for a new tap) is "R", or 0.339", for 1/8 NPT, and is 7/16", or
0.4375", for 1/4 NPT. Use a thread sealant when re-installing the nipple if pipe
threads are used to prevent galling and to seal.
All -
I'm told that the clutch booster nipple in the intake plenum next to the
throttle body is a screw-in fitting. Does anybody happen to know the
threading of the plenum hole? 1/2 NPT? 3/8? Something
else?
Thanks,
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 15:02:38 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Datalogger help
> I have the TMO software with a home built cable
> that I bought
from a guy. I am using a laptop and
> it is for my '91 VR-4. The guy
stated that his
> cable doesn't need a 12V source, is this
>
possible? I have the three wires hooked up to
> pins 1, 10, and 12. Any
suggestions? Thanks, Casey
I'd suspect the homemade cable first. PPT Racing has ALDL OBD1
interfaces for
$65.
I'm sure there are others. Maybe first ask the guy you got it from if
he can
make it work for you.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 10:28:33 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Got my 91 RT/TT! Need some stuff and advice
Well, I've got the 91 RT/TT now, and lovin it (even the wife drove it
around, and took it for a longer trip than just around the block!). It's red,
decent shape... but this is what it needs
A drivers seat
A shiftboot
Downpipe
The hood heat shield (is it
available from Conicelli?)
Anyone got seats or a newer shift boot? dark charcoal leather please! Are
there any catskin recovers available? To be honest, I haven't kept up on the
parts available for the 3/S's lately.
I need a downpipe asap for the car, what's good and affordable (no job
right now)? The smaller flex section has a crack in it somewhere. Oh and a shift
boot!
One day, a maf translator, 450cc injectors, fuel pump, and figure out where
the few drops of fluid are coming from (either tcase, or transmission, which
part on each do they leak at usually?)
Thank you for the warm welcome to my previous email!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 10:29:36 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Team3S: ABS / Anti Lock Light
Hopefully unrelated to the ABS malfunction, the SRS light is on, but I can
find no hint of a major accident on the car (and I worked at a body shop for 6
months after 6 months of training). Front bumper is original, original vin
sticker on it. I figure I just remove the bulb from the dash pod. The Check
Engine Light came on after about 50 miles of ownership, hooked it up to the
pocket logger, and it tells me O2 sensor(s), not too hard to fix, and not too
hard to leave alone for a bit to take care of more pressing issues.
Question of the day is, the ABS light on the dash flickers when you turn
the key, and then start the engine... but after it does that, it's off. As soon
as you start moving, it turns on again. Whenever I had problems with the ABS, it
would stay lit if there were any problems with the unit, I'm thinking it's a
wheel sensor or something? Anyone have any ideas? I cannot remember if the ABS
on the car is even worth keeping, I remember it being very slow to pulsate on my
old car, sort of like old school ABS systems. This car, the brakes feel good,
but I CAN lock up the tires.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 10:58:40 -0500
From: Jon Paine <
ppainej@attglobal.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Intake plenum vacuum fitting size...
Jeff Lucius wrote:
> If a pipe thread, look for a tapered
diameter on the threads.
> According to the service manuals, Mitsu does
use a few pipe threads (I
> haven't seen where yet). No bigger than the
nipple is, if it is a pipe
> thread I might guess 1/8 NPT which has 27
threads per inch. 1/4 NPT
> has 18 threads per inch. For diameters, the
drill size (for a new tap)
> is "R", or 0.339", for 1/8 NPT, and is
7/16", or 0.4375", for 1/4 NPT.
> Use a thread sealant when re-installing
the nipple if pipe threads are
> used to prevent galling and to
seal.
>
If it's a pipe thread, the thread is BSPT - British Standard Pipe Taper.
I've found several fittings (oil pressure sensor (1/8" BSPT) ,
head
water jacket plug (3/8" BSPT)) which were these fittings. The pipe size
is inch measure like ours but the thread is SLIGHTLY different - they
use 1 more thread per inch than NPT pipe thread and the male thread
tapers slightly smaller than ours. A BSPT male will thread into an NPT
female (sort of, maybe well enough?) but the reverse doesn't seem to be
true.
Jon Paine
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 11:00:24 -0500
From: "Lim, Yong H SPC"
<
yong.lim@sill.army.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: part number for front engine mount
Can anybody tell me the part no. for front engine mount, I would really
appreciate it. Thank you.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 08:59:52 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
part number for front engine mount
Front as in --- front of engine by the belts, or front as in --- front of
car by radiator. In addition you need a build date as there are 3 different
versions of the one on the front of the engine.
Jim Berry
==========================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Lim, Yong H SPC" <
yong.lim@sill.army.mil>
Sent:
Tuesday, May 13, 2003 9:00 AM
> Can anybody tell me the part no. for front engine mount, I would
> really appreciate it. Thank you.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 13:19:44 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Got my 91 RT/TT! Need some stuff and advice
Look on ebay for the shift boot. That's where I got mine, it's
perfect, and cost about $10.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 13:22:05 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Got my 91 RT/TT! Need some stuff and advice
Oh, and yes, Conicelli has the insulator for about $50. Try
MB632383.
Congrats on your purchase!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 17:23:24 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Intake plenum vacuum fitting size...
Thanks Jon.
So the service manuals list two types of pipe threads used (see "Tightening
Torque" pages in the "General" Chapter): NPTF and PT.
A little searching on the web reveals that NPTF is "American National taper
pipe thread for Dryseal pressure-tight joints" (according to one site, actually
an abbreviation for National Pipe Taper Fuel - go figure). In fact, Mitsu says
"NOTE: NPTF is dry seal pipe thread".
The nice PDF document below from Parker Fluid Connectors clearly explains
that NPT threads require a sealant and that NPTF do not (because of the design
of crests and roots).
So thanks, Jon, for setting me straight on the NPT threads - there are none
on our cars. Well there are on mine because of the aftermarket air temp and fuel
pressure sensors. :)
The "PT" looks like it is the ISO 7/1, equivalent to DIN 2999 and the
British Standard Pipe Taper (BSPT), which are the same as JIS (Japanese
Industrial
Standard) tapered threads (55º thread angle so can't be mixed with
NPT or NPTF, which have a 60º thread angle).
None of the above are metric. Wow! A non-metric part on our cars! :)
So Jon has found two BSPT threaded components (oil pressure sensor and
water jacket plug). Can anyone add to this list? Has someone found any NPTF
threaded parts?
Thanks in advance,
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 13:46:56 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: part number for front engine mount
Year? Model? Also, what do you mean by "Front?" Facing the front
bumper? Facing the belts? Let me know.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Lim, Yong H SPC
[mailto:yong.lim@sill.army.mil]
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2003 12:00 PM
Can anybody tell me the part no. for front engine mount, I would really
appreciate it. Thank you.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 10:17:06 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Intake plenum vacuum fitting size...
Jon Paine wrote:
> If it's a pipe thread, the thread is BSPT -
British Standard
> Pipe Taper.
> I've found
several fittings (oil pressure sensor (1/8"
> BSPT) , head water jacket
plug (3/8" BSPT)) which were these
> fittings. The pipe size is inch
measure like ours but the
> thread is SLIGHTLY different - they use 1
more thread per
> inch than NPT pipe thread and the male thread tapers
slightly
> smaller than ours. A BSPT male will thread into an NPT
>
female (sort of, maybe well enough?) but the reverse doesn't
> seem to be
true.
Interesting... didn't know that. I installed a water temp sensor in
the threaded hole in the thermostat housing next to the factory temp sensors. My
sensor was 1/8" NPT and I used a 1/8" NPT to 3/8" NPT bushing to fit the sensor
in the stock hole. It screwed in there just fine and AFAIK, it sealed
properly with a little bit of Teflon tape. Thus I used an NPT male bushing
in the female threaded hole in the thermostat housing, which you indicated
shouldn't work. I haven't lost any coolant in several thousand
miles... maybe I got lucky?
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 18:46:15 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Intake plenum vacuum fitting size...
I don't think you got lucky, Eric. The service manuals indicate that both
NPTF and BSPT (or just PT) are used on our cars. I would guess the coolant temp
sensor threads are NPTF. NPTF and NPT threads are alike (60º thread angle and
same count/sizes) except that the crests and roots of the NPTF threads are
flattened to provide a seal without (necessarily) needing a sealant. From what I
have read, a sealant is still often used on NPTF threads.
So our list is up to 3.
oil pressure sensor: 1/8" BSPT
head water jacket plug: 3/8"
BSPT
coolant temp sensors: 3/8 NPTF
Any more?
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 13:58:12 -0500
From: Jon Paine <
ppainej@attglobal.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Intake plenum vacuum fitting size...
Hmm.. Could be that the 3/8" size is close enough to thread in , or they
cut the thread deeper (larger diam.) on that port. When I was working
with mine, I matched it up against a 3/8" tap and the threads were
slightly different. I didn't pay a lot of attention to the taper
diameter except to establish that the plug would fit into a 3/8" NPT
fitting so I could hold it for machining. With sealant (tape) of some
sort they'd be close enough I suppose, and would work OK as long as the
threads don't mesh deep enough for the extra 1TPI to matter
I never actually tried to fit an NPT plug into the port, I figured it
would be the same situation as I had with the oil pressure port, which
had absolutely no hope of fitting. The smallest diameter of the male
taper was just slightly larger than the diameter of the port. Of course
it took me half an hour to figure this out...
My temp sensor needed an M10 bolt thread, so I ended up drilling out the
hex socket in the center of the plug and tapping it for M10. The threads
are slightly 'hex' looking but work well enough.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 17:26:31 -0400
From:
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.comSubject:
Team3S: The Art of Driving with All-Wheel Drive
There is a 6-page article in a May'03 issue of SportsCar magazine titled
"The Art of Driving with All-Wheel Drive". It covers rally driving, autocross
and open tracking in AWD cars. I am really busy and I will probably take several
days to read it, I do not want to miss a single word. You could probably pick up
your issue at a book store. I am not sure if it is available online. It looks
like the magazine's website is
http://www.scca.com. Check it out!
I just glanced through the pages and I can see all the stuff that we have
been talking about all these years printed right there!!!
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 16:53:46 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Need help with Intake leaks
> There is a check valve in that hose?? Oh no. I took it
off
> and replaced it with red silicone ones. Damn hoses!!
>
lol. I still have it though. So if I sift through my
> pile
of hoses and blow through each one twice, I should
> find it? I will
check the manual now. Thanks!!!!!
Hi Gabe,
Yep, that would be your problem :-) If you can't figure out which one
it is, lemme know and I'll send you a picture. It should have some foam
padding around most of it.
Make sure you didn't replace the hose that has the check valve for the
brake booster, too! That one connects to the rear of the plenum right by
the throttle body and runs to a hard pipe attached to the firewall. The
check valve is in the hose that attaches to the plenum.
- --Erik
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 19:28:47 -0500 (CDT)
From: Chad and Carol Decker
<
carolnchad@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Piston Rings
If my rings are bad wouldn't I be using oil? My oil is always full
when I check it. I still haven't decided if it is over full. I am
going to keep checking it to decide. I smell a little gas in my oil but
not a lot. I was told that synthetic oil had a little gas smell to
it. The only symptoms I am having is the carbon build up in my tail pipe
and REALLY bad gas mileage. I get 10 mpg. I might have more than one
problem I really do not know. However, I am running rich (almost positive)
and I am not so sure about the gas in the oil. I am just going by smell
there. My local grease monkey told me to keep check on the oil to
see if it is ever over full. When you run rich it can be caused by several
things? With what I have commented about my car can anyone help me?
Also, if there is not gas in my oil and I am running rich does that mean I am
burning it in my exhaust? I have talked to so many people about this and
everyone tells me something different. I am just getting ready to roll
over to 96,XXX I suppose I will check my fuel filter as soon as I can
afford one. In the meantime I will try to get my Talon fixed (clogged
catalytic converter) and drive it. My luck w/ my cars have been awful this
year.
If I did have a sticking injector would this be fixable by getting them
cleaned? Would a compression check be able to tell me if I had bad
rings? I am sorry if I have repeated myself a lot.
Thanks,
Carol Decker
1991 Stealth R/T TT AWD
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#153
***************************************