Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, May 12
2003 Volume 02 : Number 152
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 20:00:25 -0400
From:
JEMlNlX@aol.comSubject: Team3S: 1994 GT
Overheating
My 94 GT has been overheating for about two days now.
I took it from New
York to Pennsylvania and the gauge was closer to the hot side than normal. I was
driving it the next day and the gauge maxed out at the hot level. My coolant it
full, my radiator was installed about 2 months ago, the hoses are all intact,
and both of the fans work. I thought that it might be the thermostat, but
someone told me that once the main hose connected to the radiator is hot when
the engine is running, that the thermostat is working.
I'm not really sure what else to check up on.
I would really appreciate
any suggestions that you may have.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 20:02:05 -0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: sealer, gasket maker, etc., for 60k service
I was wondering if I need any kind of RTV, gasket maker, sealer or whatever
when I do the 60k service on my car ?
I don't think I am going to replace the cam seals unless I have to, as the
manual lists, yet another, special tool to press in the seals, and I am trying
to figure out how to afford the tools to do the timing belt. Although it
is still going to be cheaper than the dealer.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 20:06:37 -0400
From: "Dunmire" <
rdunmire@woh.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Wheel Sizing
Does anyone ride on 19" wheels? I have a '94
3000GT SL that sits on 16" factory wheels and was thinking about going plus
3? Is that too drastic and will the car turn?
The chart of tire sizes and diameters in this site (under FAQ's) says that the
said vehicle has a diameter of 25.74 in from the factory. The new size
with 19" wheels and 245/35R-19 tires would be 25.75. Those numbers are
very close, meaning the speedometer would still be accurate. But will it
work?
If anybody has attempted this, could you give
me some feedback. Maybe what other mods were necessary to complete this
task, springs, etc. Thanks.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 17:56:39 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Wheel Sizing
Hey, Dunmire,
Yes it's been done, but not very often. If the diameter is the same,
you won't have a problem with fit or steering. It's a pretty look, but if
you actually *drive* your car on real roads with hazards and potholes, you will
be disappointed. Not only are the wheels and tires *very* expensive, but
the first big bump you hit at speed will trash the wheels beyond repair.
One on-track spin at Laguna Seca cost me 2 bent 18x10 wheels (265/35 rubber),
then a month later I lost 3- 18x9 rims (also 265/35) on a main highway that had
a poorly-graded area between different height surfaces. Loss: $2000 in 2
months. I've since switched to 245/40R18 to put more rubber between the
wheel and the road when driving on the street. On the track, I won't use
even 18's, even though the handling is outstanding; 19's would be out of
the question. If you're making a show car, you'll love 19" wheels.
Otherwise, IMO, you're making an expensive mistake. Best,
- ---Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 18:42:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Casey Spivey <
spiv99@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Datalogger help
I have a datalogger that I am using with a laptop. It will connect to the
com2 port and it says datalogger connected properly, but then it says "link
down" in the lower right corner. No matter what I do it will not chart anything.
Any suggestions? Thanks, Casey
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 23:29:46 -0400
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
sealer, gasket maker, etc., for 60k service
Yes - you'll need it for the water pump.
- -----Original Message-----
From: anthonymelillo
Sent: Sunday, May
11, 2003 8:02 PM
I was wondering if I need any kind of RTV, gasket maker, sealer or whatever
when I do the 60k service on my car ?
I don't think I am going to replace the cam seals unless I have to, as the
manual lists, yet another, special tool to press in the seals, and I am trying
to figure out how to afford the tools to do the timing belt. Although it
is still going to be cheaper than the dealer.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 00:01:28 EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
SRS light/ bad dealer
My local mechanic tried to diagnose my SRS light. He wasn't able to, so I
had
to take it to my dealership. They to had alot of trouble, and said that
they
know only that the driver side airbag was emitting the signal.
They recommend
I replace the airbag and clockspring, just to be on the safe
side. That's only
going to be $1,400 dollars, for something that might not
fix the problem.
The car wasn't even in an accident.
Has anyone else had this problem with not being able to diagnose the SRS
light?
Also, I believe someone on the list keeps up a list of good and bad
dealers.
I definitely have a "bad dealership" located in Freehold, NJ. If
that person
wants any details please feel free to contact me.
thanx for the help if any can comes to mind
Mike
97 SL
------------------------------
>They recommend I replace the airbag and clockspring, just to be on the
>safe side. That's only going to be $1,400 dollars, for something that
>might not fix the problem. The car wasn't even in an
accident.
>
I watched the Russian Rocket, Philip G, disassemble his
entire steering wheel trackside just to readjust the wheel centering. It took
him about 20 minutes (and I helped by beating on the center nut with a hammer
whilst he pulled up on the wheel). That means it's not that tough to take
the entire furshlugginer steering wheel apart.
I'm not saying that YOU should attempt it, but maybe some local garage you
trust could take it apart and check the air bag connections for you. If Philip
can get it apart in 20 minutes at the side of a race track, how tough can it be
for a shop with all the necessary tools on hand?
And maybe, with the air bag out of the car, somebody could diagnose it for
you.
Rich
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 00:44:30 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: SRS light/ bad dealer
> >They recommend I replace the airbag and clockspring, just to be on
the
> safe side. That's only going to be $1,400 dollars, for something
that
> might not fix the problem. The car wasn't even in an
accident.
Sure. They will pocket your money even if the problem is not solved. This
is how dealers and other repair shops do business. And they then will tell
you that the airbag did not check out to be good. @#$%!
I can't imagine an air bag itself go bad. The only thing on the driver's
side that could go bad is that slip ring that connects the controls on the
steering wheel the to rest of the car. Is it also called a "clockspring"?
Those should be available from junkyards for cheap. Also, check all the
visible connectors for oxidation. Do not forget to disconnect the battery
when working with air bags.
>I watched the Russian Rocket, Philip G, disassemble his entire
steering
>wheel trackside just to readjust the wheel centering. It took
him about
>20 minutes (and I helped by beating on the center nut with a
hammer
>whilst he pulled up on the wheel). That means it's not that
tough to
>take the entire furshlugginer steering wheel apart.
LOL! I forgot my puller at home, so I had to make one up out of two bolts,
a wrench socket and locking pliers and ask Rich to beat on the wheel shaft.
If I had my puller the whole procedure would have taken even less.
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 09:51:13 -0400
From: "Larry Leonard" <
larry@brassringfarm.org>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: SRS light/ bad dealer
Philip V. Glazatov wrote:
> Sure. They will pocket
your money even if the problem is not solved.
> This is how dealers and
other repair shops do business. And they then
> will tell you that the
airbag did not check out to be good. @#$%!
This
is something I have run into a couple of times when getting work done on my 3000
and sadly only on my 3000. I am not down with the fact that I bother to
come to the car's dealership and have them act like they cannot diagnose a
problem without spending money to replace parts and have no idea if that part is
even bad (see my previous post regarding my idle control motor) or even say with
confidence that that is the actual problem. :-/
I have at least three Mitsu dealers in my area (Northern
Virginia) and have been to all three; there is only one that I would go back to
and as luck would have it they are the least convenient to get to.
:::sigh:::
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 09:58:47 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: bad dealer
What we need to start doing is using Daveblack.net, the owner of that
site is a fellow owner/enthusiast of our cars and has a whole rate a dealer
section on his website.
Put in your experiences (both good and bad), I put in mine concerning Tony
March Mitsu (here in Hartford CT) and I have had other local folks ask me who to
go to. I always tell them Schaller or Colony Mitsu ( in
Wallingford
IIRC)
Just My.02
Russ F
CT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Larry Leonard
[mailto:larry@brassringfarm.org]
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2003 9:51 AM
This is something I have run into a couple of times when
getting work done on my 3000 and sadly only on my 3000. I am not down with
the fact that I bother to come to the car's dealership and have them act like
they cannot diagnose a problem without spending money to replace parts and have
no idea if that part is even bad (see my previous post regarding my idle
control
motor) or even say with confidence that that is the actual
problem. :-/
I have at least three Mitsu dealers in my area (Northern
Virginia) and have been to all three; there is only one that I would go back to
and as luck would have it they are the least convenient to get to.
:::sigh:::
------------------------------
I went to a local dealer last Friday for a price on parts and
installation. They wanted 800 dollars for the IAC motor and 2 Transaxles. On top
of that they wanted $400 for installation. That's a little outrageous if you ask
me but, I'm only 18.
Next I hit a local performance automotive place.
They have done all the work on most of my friends cars. Very few mistakes,
always good work. I had most of the work on my old Camaro done there. They only
wanted $800 for parts and labor.
What is the difference between
Dealership and just a run of the mill automotive place? I have heard good things
about regular places, but never dealerships. Cash is kinda hard to come by
because of my age and I would like to get the best bang for my buck.
Mike Guy
92 SOHC Stealth
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 14:20:32 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Datalogger help
> I have a datalogger that I am using with a laptop.
> It will
connect to the com2 port and it says
> datalogger connected properly, but
then it says
> "link down" in the lower right corner. No matter
>
what I do it will not chart anything. Any
> suggestions? Thanks,
Casey
You'll probably have to give us some more information than just that.
Which
brand/model of datalogger, what year 3/S?
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 09:24:58 -0500
From: Jon Paine <
ppainej@attglobal.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Bad Fuse?
Sounds like the copper strip on the 10A fuse is one of the accessory
taps they sell in the auto parts shops. Normally they come out into a
1/4" male tab, yours probably broke off and no one pulled the fuse to
remove the rest of it. I don't think this would have caused another fuse
to overheat though. The original problem sounds like an overheated
contact at the fuse, maybe dirt/corrosion/fuse not all the way in the
socket/loose socket contact.
FWIW, Jon
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 07:42:29 -0700
From: Michael Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: RE: First
Impressions WAS Team3S: Brake pads
>The rebuild seal kit from Mitsubishi is not cheap.
I learned this the hard way. I observed that my dust covers around the
pistons were about toast so I bought a seal kit for about $50. I removed
the pistons (not an easy chore) and replaced the seals and dust covers.
Getting the dust cover retainer ring on is also a chore. I reinstalled the
calipers and was going to bleed the brakes in a few days. Two days later I
noticed a pool of brake fluid under one caliper. It was leaking under
gravity pressure. Bummer. I was going to drive in a NASA HPDE in a little
over a week so I decided to get remanufactured calipers. I think they ran
about $75 each. I would have been better off skipping my attempt at the
seals. I'd rebuilt drum brake cylinders before with zero problem. I have
yet to know what the issue was with my attempt. I was out of time and
decided to go with the safest solution.
Just my 2 cents worth.
- --------------------------------------------------------------
Michael
A. Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 10:15:03 -0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
brian.geisel@hp.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: clutch
Ok, yes you can adjust the clutch. There is a bolt and 2 nuts behind
the clutch pedal itself. You can bring it in, or let it out as
needed.
Where you adjust it too is entirely up to you. You do have
to be
careful you're not getting creep with the clutch
fully depressed. Then
you'll grind gears and all sorts of problems. Of course going the other
way will kill your clutch because it never gets full pressure, so it is
essentially always slipping.
Just put the catch/release point somewhere such that:
1. once the clutch
is fully engaged there is still some amount of pedal motion before it is fully
released (probably still
a lot of motion actually).
2. Once the clutch is
fully disengaged, there should still be
a small amount of clutch motion
before hitting the floorboard.
As long as you're somewhere in that range you're fine, from there it is
just a matter of finding a good location for you. I like mine a little closer to
the floor, but for dragracing it is better that the c/r point is further out so
you don't need so much pedal motion to shift. <shrug>
HTH,
geis
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gabe Simoes
[mailto:Gabe92RTTT@comcast.net]
> Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2003 3:10
AM
>
> I have been having issues with my clutch and would like to
know to
> what point to adjust it. Where should it engage? Should I
adjust it
> until I can't shift anymore, then bring it back out?
>
> Gabe
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 11:16:17 -0400
From: "Williams, Tommy F" <
WilliamsTF@bernstein.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Need 2 18" Chrome VR4 Wheels
Does anyone have two of these sitting in their garage? Need only be in
re-finishable condition............. Please advise, Tommy
- -----Original Message-----
From: Larry Leonard
[mailto:larry@brassringfarm.org]
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2003 9:51 AM
Philip V. Glazatov wrote:
> Sure. They will pocket
your money even if the problem is not solved.
> This is how dealers and
other repair shops do business. And they then
> will tell you that the
airbag did not check out to be good. @#$%!
This
is something I have run into a couple of times when getting work done on my 3000
and sadly only on my 3000. I am not down with the fact that I bother to
come to the car's dealership and have them act like they cannot diagnose a
problem without spending money to replace parts and have no idea if that part is
even bad (see my previous post regarding my idle control
motor) or even say
with confidence that that is the actual problem. :-/
I have at least three Mitsu dealers in my area (Northern
Virginia) and have been to all three; there is only one that I would go back to
and as luck would have it they are the least convenient to get to.
:::sigh:::
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 10:23:38 -0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
brian.geisel@hp.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Bad Dealers
A lot of people just take their car to the dealer because that's what
they're "supposed" to do (in some sick, twisted, version of supposed).
Because of this the dealer can charge whatever they want (to a degree) because
people will bring it there an assume that the dealer is doing the right
thing. Some dealers do, but a lot don't. A lot of people get screwed
by trusting those dealerships. However, often work done by a dealership
comes warranted - this is quite useful from time to time.
Someone who does their own stuff probably doesn't have the resources the
dealership does, and they have to actually get customers through conventional
advertising and word-of-mouth.
I found that my local dealership can't figure out how to install a clutch
on my VR-4 (6 months they had my car scratching their butts and rubbing their
heads, waiting for someone to walk by and yell "Switch!"). My local
mechanic got two turbos swapped in 7.5 hours - and that's because of the 1.5
hours he spent to check my valves for me. Needless to say, my car goes to
him for everything now.
If you have friends who have been successful there, it's probably a good
deal. Once you find a trustworthy guy, you're set.
geis
------------------------------
good point. That's why I wrap rags around the reservoir and put the
top back on without screwing it on.
Chuck Willis
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jon Paine
[mailto:ppainej@attglobal.net]
Sent: Friday, May 09, 2003 2:52 PM
Everyone else covered the procedure; another hint: When you're pressing the
pistons into the calipers, keep an eye on the fluid level in the master
cylinder. It may overfill and run over...
Jon Paine
------------------------------
>From: Janice Findlay <
jefind@shaw.ca>
>Can we adjust our
clutches on these cars. If so how?
>From: Gabe Simoes <
Gabe92RTTT@comcast.net>
>I
have been having issues with my clutch and would like to know to what
>point to adjust it. Where should it engage? Should I adjust
it until
>I can't shift anymore, then bring it back out?
I'll try to answer you both of you at the same time. The clutches ARE
adjustable on our cars, but only as far as the engagement/disengagement point on
the pedal. The adjustment is made by turning the pushrod at the top of the
clutch pedal in or out. There is a dimension specification in the service
manual, but really, as long as you leave a little free-play at the top of the
pedal stroke, and the clutch disengages before the bottom of the pedal stroke,
anywhere in-between is ok. AT least that's been MY experience.
Jeff W.
Belleville, MI
'92 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 09:00:33 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
SRS light/ bad dealer
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
>
> I
can't imagine an air bag itself go bad. The only thing on the
>
driver's
> side that could go bad is that slip ring that connects the
controls on the
> steering wheel the to rest of the car. Is it also
called a "clockspring"?
> Those should be available from junkyards for
cheap. Also, check all the
> visible connectors for oxidation. Do not
forget to disconnect the battery
> when working with air bags.
The clockspring isn't a slip ring it's actually like the mainspring on a
watch, it's wound around the hub and has enough play to allow the wheel to turn.
What error code did the SRS system spit out --- that should give a good
indication what the problem is. Another problem is that even if you replace the
air bag you'll still have the light until the dealer resets the error code. I
don't think the SRS system clears codes like the rest of the system.
Where do you live ??? I've got what should be a good air bag in my garage
but I'm not sure about shipping it anywhere --- It's an explosive device so
I don't know how they ship them.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 11:18:32 -0600
From: Gabe Simoes <
Gabe92RTTT@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Clutch Adjustment
Great, thanks for the tip. Reason I was asking was because my RPS
clutch is slipping now and had extremely short life. It was out of
adjustment for the longest time and I think that the engagement point
contributed to its premature wear (way high up). I am now going to
order a street disk and want to make sure it adjusted properly the
first
time. Thanks again,
Gabe Simoes
1992 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo
- - K&N, EGR BlockOffs, Port & Polished Heads, Ported Manifolds,
Wiseco
Forged Pistons, GTPro 347s, MBC, DN Y-Pipe, TurboXS RFL, Stillen DP,
3SX Crank Pulley, RPS 6 Puck, Weight Redux
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 10:26:12 -0700
From: "Ann Koch" <
akoch@sonic.net>
Subject: Team3S:
shocks
I need to replace shocks on all 4 wheels, so I started trying to find the
most inexpensive acceptable ones I could find. I tried several of the
dealers listed on the "Good Guys" list on the Team 3s site, and also some of the
local (north Bay Calif) Dodge and Mitsu dealers for a price on both the parts
and installation. Needless to say, prices varied all over. I told
the locals that I was shopping prices and didn't want to play "Let's Make A
Deal" with them; I wanted the best price they could give me and I wanted it the
first time. That didn't work, though, as they called back to remind me
that I would, of course, "get a discount." No mention of amounts though.
The best price I could find was from Tallahassee Mitsu. Even installation
varied over a range of about $500 to $1000, so I have some local mechanics who
will do the installation.
If there are any tricks or twists to the installation of shocks, please
don't hold your cards close to your chests--let me know what you know. We
have access to a spring compressor as well as the shop manual and Vinny's CD for
reference. Thanks for all your help.
Ann
'93 Blue TT
'94 Red TT
------------------------------
Best method:
Mail order the parts at best price.
Have a local buddy remove the strut/spring assemblies, and have a local
shop simply replace the struts off the car. MUCHO cheaper.
If your local buddy is comfy with doing himself..its not hard to get a
spring compressor and do it his self either.
If we lived closer..Id do it.
- ---
Now offering replacement
Toyota/Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Porsche/SAAB/Volvo parts Where do you buy YOUR brakes
from?
orders@speedtoys.com Maybe
I can help..asking is free. :) "If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
I have done the basic shock replacement on some cars, and it is I think
just a simple process. I haven't played with the ones on my Stealth yet, but its
not hard.
You need to disconnect the shock from the rear seat, whether it be a rear
control arm, bar, whatever. Sorry. Not familiar with all the parts on the
rear.
After that, un-bolt the shock from the top by removing the interior
plastic. Before you remove, make sure there aren't any lines held in place by a
bracket on the shock. Sometimes they have the brake line held by the
shock.
Use the spring compressors to compress the spring. Remove the top portion
and then remove the spring. the shock should just slide out, Replace and then
mount again. Same directions but in reverse.
The ECS controlled shocks I don't know much about. But from the reading I
have seen, you only need to unplug it, and then plug it back in once you are
done.
Hope this helps. Maybe somebody else could fill in the rest of the gaps
that I missed.
Mike Guy
92 SOHC
Prince Fred. MD--Anybody around here?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ann Koch
[mailto:akoch@sonic.net]
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2003 1:26 PM
I need to replace shocks on all 4 wheels, so I started trying to find the
most inexpensive acceptable ones I could find. I tried several of the
dealers listed on the "Good Guys" list on the Team 3s site, and also some of the
local (north Bay Calif) Dodge and Mitsu dealers for a price on both the parts
and installation. Needless to say, prices varied all over. I told
the locals that I was shopping prices and didn't want to play "Let's Make A
Deal" with them; I wanted the best price they could give me and I wanted it the
first time. That didn't work, though, as they called back to remind me
that I would, of course, "get a discount." No mention of amounts though.
The best price I could find was from Tallahassee Mitsu. Even installation
varied over a range of about $500 to $1000, so I have some local mechanics who
will do the installation.
If there are any tricks or twists to the installation of shocks, please
don't hold your cards close to your chests--let me know what you know. We
have access to a spring compressor as well as the shop manual and Vinny's CD for
reference. Thanks for all your help.
Ann
'93 Blue TT
'94 Red TT
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 13:56:47 EDT
From:
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: SRS light/ bad dealer
The dealership never gave me what code specifically. They said to be on the
safe side I should just replace the airbag. They only told me they know its
coming form the drivers side. They never gave me a straight answer.
This
dealer also told me they wouldn't be able to read it right away
and that I
should leave the car there until they find the problem. At 80
dollars an
hour. the service rep suggested I give them a set price in labor
hours (4-500
dollars) and by then they should have it found. I didn't
do that. . .
Its ridiculous. The only thing I noticed was that when I would start the
car
the light always comes on ( as normal) But it would stay on longer and
longer
after startup until one day it stayed on. The battery was not
recently
replaced. The only thing done about 1,500 miles ago was the 60K.
You guys are also right about the light staying on even if I switch out the
bag.
------------------------------
Connicelli (sp) Mitsubishi has the ECS shocks for about $140 ea. plus
shipping.
I've always found that they are very reasonable in this
regard.
As for replacing them, it's a relatively easy operation.
------------------------------
On a related topic, I was trying to locate an air bag fuse yesterday but
could not find it. Do we have a fuse for that? If yes, where is it?
I realized how lucky I was that my airbag did not pop when I crashed into a
tire wall at Road America! :-)
Philip
------------------------------
Replacing the shocks is really a piece of cake. The rear struts tend
to get corroded onto the lower mount. jacking the rear axle a bit to
relieve stress makes it easier to get them loose. note the orientation of
the arrows on the keyed brass washer on top of the rear struts - the ECS won't
work in some orientations. The front struts are easy. Having a bench
vise makes removal and installation of the springs much easier.
Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 13:48:17 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Do we have an airbag fuse?
Huh..ya..there has to be. It should be up front if I recall, where
the critical fuses and relays are.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 11:04:59 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE: 3S-Racers: shocks
I've never messed with the stock struts other than to remove them but I
thought there were some orientation tricks on the front --- flats or arrows or
Indians or some such nonsense.
> Replacing the shocks is really a piece of cake. The rear struts
tend
> to get corroded onto the lower mount. jacking the rear axle
a bit to relieve stress makes it easier to get them loose. note the
orientation of the arrows on the keyed brass washer on top of
the rear struts
- the ECS won't work in some orientations. The front struts are
easy. Having a bench vise makes removal and installation of the springs
much easier.
>
> Chuck Willis
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 13:53:54 -0500
From: "Steve" <
denon11@insightbb.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: SRS light/ bad dealer
You might want to check your Clock Spring That is located behind the
Steering Wheel.
If this part goes bad the SRS light will stay on.
The dealership never gave me what code specifically. They said to be on the
safe side I should just replace the airbag. They only told me they know its
coming form the drivers side. They never gave me a straight answer. This
dealer also told me they wouldn't be able to read it right away and that I
should leave the car there until they find the problem. At 80 dollars an hour.
the service rep suggested I give them a set price in labor hours (4-500 dollars)
and by then they should have it found. I didn't do that. . .
Its ridiculous. The only thing I noticed was that when I would start the
car the light always comes on ( as normal) But it would stay on longer and
Longer after startup until one day it stayed on. The battery was not recently
replaced. The only thing done about 1,500 miles ago was the 60K.
You guys are also right about the light staying on even if I switch out the
bag.
------------------------------
If you are racing one of your TTs, get GABs from Stillen.
Rumor has it
that KYB replacement shocks for TTs suck.
If you are not racing, then stock
replacement shocks are probably best. Shop on line to get the best deal. Try
www.mitsupartsdirect.com. There are
others.
Rich/slow old poop
At 10:26 AM 5/12/03 -0700, Ann Koch wrote:
>I
need to replace shocks on all 4 wheels, so I started trying to find
>the
most inexpensive acceptable ones I could find.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 16:36:51 -0400
From: Vedran <
1994TT@comcast.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Clutch booster adjustment....???
My clutch is really stiff, I replaced the clutch booster and it was still
stiff. The guy I bought the car from put stage 2 clutch in it 3 months
before I bought it. What do I do to get my clutch to work properly.
Thanks....
Ved, 94 TT
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 13:45:49 -0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Intake plenum vacuum fitting size...
All -
I'm told that the clutch booster nipple in the intake plenum next to the
throttle body is a screw-in fitting. Does anybody happen to know the
threading of the plenum hole? 1/2 NPT? 3/8? Something
else?
Thanks,
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 15:48:12 -0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
brian.geisel@hp.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Clutch booster adjustment....???
Can you push the clutch to the floor with 1 foot?
If yes, then it is probably working properly.
The RPS stage 2 isn't exactly race-pressure, but it
won't feel like any
street car you've ever driven, unless you're privy to a Viper or a Lambo or
something.
I have to rev my engine up to about 3-3.5k to pull out at
all - without
bogging, jumping, jerking, or stalling.
Don't think of it as a bug... it's a feature. <shrug>
geis
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vedran
[mailto:1994TT@comcast.net]
> Sent: Monday, May 12, 2003 4:37 PM
>
> My clutch is really stiff, I replaced the clutch booster and
> it
was still stiff. The guy I bought the car from put stage
> 2 clutch
in it 3 months before I bought it. What do I do to
> get my clutch
to work properly.
>
> Thanks....
> Ved, 94 TT
------------------------------
have you bled your clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder?
Chuck
- -----Original Message-----
From: Vedran
[mailto:1994TT@comcast.net]
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2003 3:37 PM
My clutch is really stiff, I replaced the clutch booster and it was still
stiff. The guy I bought the car from put stage 2 clutch in it 3 months
before I bought it. What do I do to get my clutch to work properly.
Thanks....
Ved, 94 TT
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 14:50:44 -0700
From: John Sheehan <
johns@kyso.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: bad
dealer
While we are at it, I have my 93 back on the road and now need to take
it in for the Recall check.
Which dealership would people recommend in the San Jose/ Santa Cruz
California area ??
Thanx, John
Furman, Russell wrote:
>What we need to start doing is using Daveblack.net, the owner of
that
>site is a fellow owner/enthusiast of our cars and has a whole rate
a
>dealer section on his website.
>
>Put in your experiences
(both good and bad), I put in mine concerning
>Tony March Mitsu (here in
Hartford CT) and I have had other local folks
>ask me who to go to.
I always tell them Schaller or Colony Mitsu ( in
>Wallingford
>IIRC)
>
>Just My.02
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 19:04:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: Castawaykev <
castawaykev@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: re: timing belt
I think I'll take your advice and go thru the local
Chrysler
dealership...at least they have worked on it
before or maybe the local mitsu
one.
Kev --- "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
wrote:
>
> I would say no. I have never changed a timing
belt
> in my life, but proceeded to do my own. Why?
Well,
> I had time to do it, 5 months or so. I had time to
>
double check, triple check things. This list and
> 3si were also
great resources when I had questions.
> Time is money for a mechanic and I
don't think this
> guy, having never worked on a Stealth before
knows
> what he is getting into. I firmly believe why
>
dealerships F this service up is because they don't
> take the time to
check their work. I took my '93 in
> for the 60k and the dealership
messed it up twice.
>
> I would find someone more knowledgeable of
cars and
> spend the money to get it done right.
>
> Good
luck.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 17:42:44 -0600
From: Gabe Simoes <
Gabe92RTTT@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Need help with Intake leaks
Hi all,
I just got my intake pressure tester today and found my car to be in a
world of hurt as far as intake leaks go. Armed with soap and water, I had
found at least 10 leaks!! I have fixed all of them but 2. Maybe you guys
can help me....I have at least located them.
1. My TurboXS RFL is leaking under any pressure. It pours out suds
when I spray it. I increased the washers from 3 to 5 but no
difference...is it supposed to do leak air??
2. This one is a little more complicated. I pressurized the system to
15psi and everything seems fine, then I start to hear this steady "hooooooot"
sound coming from the rear of the engine bay. It turns out air is blasting
into the cabin from the clutch boot just behind the clutch pedal. If I
push the clutch in, it lessens, but is still there. Within a half a minute
the system is only holding about 4psi. I know the clutch is vacuum assist
so what is causing it to leak like this? How do I fix it?
I am lost with these two, any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Gabe
------------------------------
Hello everyone,
During a complete spark plug change for anyone who has done themselves or
know how its done. The intake plenum must come off I know to get to the plugs in
the back I know, but does the gasket have to be replaced in order to put it back
on? My new mechanic told me I will need a new intake plenum gasket after I
change the plugs, any truth to this. I have a SOHC engine.
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#152
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