Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, May 10
2003 Volume 02 : Number 151
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 14:07:47 -0500
From: "David Phillips" <
dphillips@heeren.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Front License Plate Holder
I think I'm missing the front license plate holder on my 94 3000GT SL. I've
seen pictures of 94 GT's with the front license plant mounted in
two
different positions. One position is where the plate sits
below the bumper
level and spans the open area between the fog
lights. The other position
that I've seen is where the plate sits
above that open are and actually in front of the bumper. I recently bought
my car and when I went to install
plates, the mounting holes I found don't
match the plate holes. I was
wondering if their exists a mounting
bracket that I'm missing? Or do I
drill new holes in my plate to
match the mounting holes that exist. The
previous owner obviously
did this as you can see where the bottom of the plate has scratched up the lower
part of the bumper.
Thanks!
David Phillips
94 - 3000GT SL
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 15:14:04 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Front License Plate Holder
Yes, there's a bracket. It consists to two parts. The
bracket
(MR280014) and the support (MB935121).
Isn't CAPS wonderful?
- -----Original Message-----
From: David Phillips
[mailto:dphillips@heeren.com]
Sent: Friday, May 09, 2003 3:08 PM
To:
Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Front License Plate Holder
I think I'm missing the front license plate holder on my 94 3000GT SL.
I've seen pictures of 94 GT's with the front license plant mounted in
two
different positions. One position is where the plate sits
below the
bumper
level and spans the open area between the fog
lights. The other
position
that I've seen is where the plate
sits above that open are and actually in front of the bumper. I recently
bought my car and when I went to install
plates, the mounting holes I found
don't match the plate holes. I was
wondering if their exists a
mounting bracket that I'm missing? Or do I
drill new holes in my
plate to match the mounting holes that exist. The previous owner obviously did
this as you can see where the bottom of the plate has scratched up the lower
part of the bumper.
Thanks!
David Phillips
94 - 3000GT SL
Above email is for intended recipient only and may be confidential and
protected by attorney/client privilege. If you are not the intended recipient,
please advise the sender immediately. Unauthorized use or distribution is
prohibited and may be unlawful.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 14:19:41 -0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
brian.geisel@hp.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Front License Plate Holder
Yeah, there is a mounting bracket that should have come with the car. It
basically is a plate which has to extrusions. Those holes are the ones
that bolt onto your car and hold the plate up. Then you bolt your plate to
the bracket.
Also, I might suggest that you bolt it higher, rather than lower. I can't
really think of many things worse than putting a large, flat, steel plate in
front of your radiator ;)
I used to live in PA where there was only 1 plate, and I would have sent
you mine - but now I live in MA, where we need as many license plates as they
give us :(
geis
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Phillips
[mailto:dphillips@heeren.com]
> Sent: Friday, May 09, 2003 3:08 PM
>
To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: Front License Plate Holder
>
>
> I think I'm missing the front license plate holder on my 94 3000GT
SL.
> I've seen pictures of 94 GT's with the front license plant mounted
in
> two
> different positions. One position is where
the plate sits
> below the bumper
> level and spans the open area
between the fog lights. The
> other position
> that
I've seen is where the plate sits above that open are
> and actually
in
> front of the bumper. I recently bought my car and when I
> went to install
> plates, the mounting holes I found don't match
the plate
> holes. I was
> wondering if their exists a
mounting bracket that I'm
> missing? Or do I
> drill
new holes in my plate to match the mounting holes that
>
exist. The
> previous owner obviously did this as you can see
where the
> bottom of the
> plate has scratched up the lower part
of the bumper.
>
> Thanks!
>
> David Phillips
>
94 - 3000GT SL
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
------------------------------
I will sell you mine. I hate it. You know the reduction in
aerodynamics from the stupid thing ;) Also there are two screws in it for
the license plate that have now worked they way into my front bumper and created
to big nicks.
If I were you I would go plate less until you get pulled over and then tell
them you have one coming from the dealer it is just back ordered. Then email me
and I will overnight mine to you. Until then I'm taking mine off and
tossing it in a box with all the other junk I removed from my car.
Dan Labonte
- -----Original Message-----
From: Starkey, Jr., Joseph
[mailto:starkeyje@bipc.com]
Sent: Friday, May 09, 2003 1:14 PM
To: David
Phillips; Team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: Front License Plate Holder
Yes, there's a bracket. It consists to two parts. The
bracket
(MR280014) and the support (MB935121).
Isn't CAPS wonderful?
- -----Original Message-----
From: David Phillips
[mailto:dphillips@heeren.com]
Sent: Friday, May 09, 2003 3:08 PM
To:
Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Front License Plate Holder
I think I'm missing the front license plate holder on my 94 3000GT SL.
I've seen pictures of 94 GT's with the front license plant mounted in
two
different positions. One position is where the plate sits
below the
bumper
level and spans the open area between the fog
lights. The other
position
that I've seen is where the plate
sits above that open are and actually in front of the bumper. I recently
bought my car and when I went to install
plates, the mounting holes I found
don't match the plate holes. I was
wondering if their exists a
mounting bracket that I'm missing? Or do I
drill new holes in my
plate to match the mounting holes that exist. The previous owner obviously did
this as you can see where the bottom of the plate has scratched up the lower
part of the bumper.
Thanks!
David Phillips
94 - 3000GT SL
Above email is for intended recipient only and may be confidential and
protected by attorney/client privilege. If you are not the intended recipient,
please advise the sender immediately. Unauthorized use or distribution is
prohibited and may be unlawful.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 May 2003 14:51:43 -0500
From: Jon Paine <
ppainej@attglobal.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake pads
Everyone else covered the procedure; another hint: When you're pressing the
pistons into the calipers, keep an eye on the fluid level in the master
cylinder. It may overfill and run over...
Jon Paine
------------------------------
Can a 1995 3000GT with the Standard type analog Climate Control be fitted
with the Electronic Climate Control System? Is there anything special
that I
would need besides the Unit? Thanks.
Russ
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 17:59:09 -0400
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Brake pads
I'm in the middle of doing this, but I can't seem to be able to get the
pistons back. I'm using Rich's method to grab the old pad and the caliper and
squeeze, but no matter how hard I squeeze, the pistons move back about a
millimeter and when I let go, it goes right back to where it was. Is there some
trick to this? Do I need to have the engine running or something (I don't right
now)...
Thanks,
Alex.
------------------------------
Nope..should go right in.
Get a coke can and vacuum hose.
Place hose over the bleeder, draining in to the can/bottle.
Open the bleeder, then push piston. May help.
On Fri, 9 May 2003, Alex Pedenko wrote:
> I'm in the middle of doing this, but I can't seem to be able to
get
> the pistons back. I'm using Rich's method to grab the old pad and
the
> caliper and squeeze, but no matter how hard I squeeze, the pistons
> move back about a millimeter and when I let go, it goes right back to
> where it was. Is there some trick to this? Do I need to have the
> engine running or something (I don't right now)...
>
>
Thanks,
> Alex.
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
- ---
Now offering replacement
Toyota/Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Porsche/SAAB/Volvo parts Where do you buy YOUR brakes
from?
orders@speedtoys.com Maybe
I can help..asking is free. :) "If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Try taking the cap off the reservoir.
If that doesn't work, open the
bleeder valve (you'll have to bleed the brakes afterward). You might also try
prying with a screwdriver between the rotor and the pad. Push on the pad, so you
don't scratch the rotor. Those pistons oughta slide right back.
Rich
At 05:59 PM 5/9/03 -0400, Alex Pedenko wrote:
>I'm in the middle of
doing this, but I can't seem to be able to get the
>pistons back. I'm
using Rich's method to grab the old pad and the
>caliper and squeeze, but
no matter how hard I squeeze, the pistons move
>back about a millimeter
and when I let go, it goes right back to where
>it was. Is there some
trick to this? Do I need to have the engine
>running or something (I
don't right
now)...
>
>Thanks,
>Alex.
>
>
>***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 20:43:16 -0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: how to clean oil build up inside of rocker cover
I finally was able to obtain a set of rocker covers for my VR-4, and am
going to polish them, and some other misc stuff when I get it.
But the rocker covers have a lot of oil residue on the inside and I was
wondering what I could use to get that brown caked on stuff off ?
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 20:06:26 -0500
From: "msweet" <
msweet@neb.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S:
spark plugs post-installation question
Hey everyone,
I just installed a new set of spark plugs and wires: Bosch Platinum 2 and
Beck/Arnley Blue Thunder wires in a 1993 Dodge Stealth ES. The installation went
fine, I didn't have any problems there as far as I know. But afterwards when I
started my car it was idling to slow, then it would race, slow down again, and
then race again, at which point I shut it off. Any ideas what would cause that?
How to adjust it?
Thanks!
Michael
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 23:27:07 -0400
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: First
Impressions WAS Team3S: Brake pads
Okay, so I finally got everything installed.
A few concerns - first off I'm kind of worried about my front calipers. I
had no problems installing pads in the rears - just grabbed the old pad with the
pliers and it pushed the piston right in. On the fronts however, I managed to
push in the outboard pistons, but the only way I could get the inboard ones in
was to take off the caliper and put it in a vice. That was one. The other front,
I got the outboard pistons in, got one of the inboard ones, and had to use the
same trick as before for the last one. Time to rebuild my calipers? What's going
on?
Next problem - I can't make emergency low speed stops. It works great at
higher speeds, but at low speeds (<20), the pedal just stops short, and the
car nose dives. I can't lock 'em up...
Another one - my driver rear pads aren't just unequally worn - one is worn
at a slant?!
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Alex.
'95 VR4
------------------------------
At 11:27 PM 5/9/03 -0400, Alex Pedenko wrote:
>Okay, so I finally got
everything installed.
>
>A few concerns - first off I'm kind of
worried about my front calipers.
>I had no problems installing pads in the
rears - just grabbed the old
>pad with the pliers and it pushed the
piston right in.
That's the way it is supposed to work.
On the fronts
>however, I managed to push in the outboard pistons,
but the only way I
>could get the inboard ones in was to take off the
caliper and put it in
>a vice. That was one. The other front, I got the
outboard pistons in,
>got one of the inboard ones, and had to use the
same trick as before
>for the last one. Time to rebuild my calipers?
What's going on?
The pistons definitely should not be that hard to push in. Especially with
no hydraulic pressure, like when you removed the calipers from the car. You
should be able to push them in with your fingers. Are they still that way after
you vised them? Did the old pads wear weird?
>
>Next problem - I
can't make emergency low speed stops. It works great
>at higher speeds,
but at low speeds (<20), the pedal just stops short,
>and the car nose
dives. I can't lock 'em up...
You definitely have a problem. Sounds like those inboard pistons are not
working properly, and you have half your brakes. Yeah, maybe it's time for a
rebuild or a replacement of the calipers. You might want to take them off
the car, buy a rebuild kit, and take 'em to a brake shop for a rebuild. I'll
fool with brakes all day, but I've never rebuilt a caliper. I leave that to
people who do it for a living.
>
>Another one - my driver rear pads
aren't just unequally worn - one is
>worn at a slant?!
I dunno about that one. Which way is the slant: top to bottom or front to
rear? With a one piston caliper, the caliper floats on springs, and moves back
and forth. That is, when the single piston expands, the caliper centers itself
over the rotor so that pads on both sides grip the rotor. If the springs are
broken, warped, twisted, or whatever, the caliper can't move equally. Alas, I am
not familiar with that particular caliper.
Rich
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 00:00:14 -0400
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: First
Impressions WAS Team3S: Brake pads
<snip>
The pistons definitely should not be that hard to push in.
Especially with no hydraulic pressure, like when you removed the calipers from
the car. You should be able to push them in with your fingers. Are they still
that way after you viced them? Did the old pads wear weird? </snip>
I didn't completely remove the caliper - I didn't detach the brake line, I
just took it off the disc and brought the vice to the car.
The pads did wear differently - on both fronts the inboard pads were worn a
good 1 or 2 mm more...
Alex.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 May 2003 22:21:33 -0600
From: Janice Findlay <
jefind@shaw.ca>
Subject: Team3S:
clutch
Can we adjust our clutches on these cars. If so how?
Thanks
Andrew
------------------------------
>I didn't completely remove the caliper - I didn't detach the
brake
>line, I just took it off the disc and brought the vice to the
car.
>
>The pads did wear differently - on both fronts the inboard
pads were
>worn a good 1 or 2 mm more...
>
It sure sounds like
the inboard pistons are not working.
If the inboard pistons are not retracting, they are keeping the pad up
against the rotor, thus wearing the inboard pads. I'll bet they inch their way
out (sorry, mm their way out) a tiny bit at a time when you hit the brakes, then
stay there. In other words, the inboards ain't working. That's why you
have no low speed braking -- you only have half your caliper working.
I had almost exactly the same thing happen with my Talon. I bought it,
drove it for a while, and the first panic stop was a real thriller, because only
half my brakes worked. I had the opposite problem as you -- the inner side of
the front rotors were rusty, because the inboard pads never touched the surface
of the rotors.
Get yer calipers rebuilt. Or take them off, exercise the pistons, and get
the inboard pistons working again.
Rich
------------------------------
I have been having issues with my clutch and would like to know to what
point to adjust it. Where should it engage? Should I adjust it until
I can't shift anymore, then bring it back out?
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 08:01:39 -0700
From: "Tyson Varosyan" <
tigran@tigran.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: how to clean oil build up inside of rocker cover
Take them to any machine shop and have them "hot tank" them. They will look
like new.
Tyson
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf Of anthonymelillo
Sent: Friday, May
09, 2003 5:43 PM
To: Team 3S List Submissions
Subject: Team3S: how to
clean oil build up inside of rocker cover
I finally was able to obtain a set of rocker covers for my VR-4, and am
going to polish them, and some other misc stuff when I get it.
But the rocker covers have a lot of oil residue on the inside and I was
wondering what I could use to get that brown caked on stuff off ?
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 08:17:31 -0700
From: "Andy" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: how to clean oil build up inside of rocker cover
I just used brake cleaner and some elbow grease. Takes it all off pretty
quickly.
> Take them to any machine shop and have them "hot tank" them. They
will
look
> like new.
>
>
Tyson
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On
> Behalf Of anthonymelillo
>
Sent: Friday, May 09, 2003 5:43 PM
> To: Team 3S List Submissions
>
Subject: Team3S: how to clean oil build up inside of rocker
cover
>
>
> I finally was able to obtain a set of rocker
covers for my VR-4, and
> am going to polish them, and some other misc
stuff when I get it.
>
> But the rocker covers have a lot of oil
residue on the inside and I
> was wondering what I could use to get that
brown caked on stuff off ?
>
> Any help is greatly
appreciated. Thanks
>
> Anthony Melillo
> 1997 VR-4,
Firestorm Red
>
http://home.sprintmail.com/~anthonymelillo/3000gt.htm>
>
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 12:17:17 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE: First
Impressions WAS Team3S: Brake pads
I think any use of a C-clamp or a vice to push the pistons in is an
overkill. You could cock the pistons and damage the caliper with all that
force. I use channel lock pliers to push in mine, trying to be careful not
to damage the dust seals.
The pads are worn at a slant because one of your pistons is not moving
freely. You need to try moving all of them in and out several times to make
them move freely. Push them in with channel locks and out with the
hydraulic pressure. Do not pump the brake pedal more than once or twice or
you will put some of the pistons all the way out. If the pistons still do
not move freely then you will need to have your caliper rebuilt. Do not
drive like that for long or you will wear out your new pads in no time and
possibly burn the seals and warp the rotors too.
The rebuild seal kit from Mitsubishi is not cheap. I have been looking for
a source for cheaper and better seals to offer caliper rebuilding services
to my customers but I am still looking... Your best bet now is to learn how
to rebuild your calipers yourself or to ask your local brake shops what
they would charge you to rebuild your caliper. Let me know if they are
unreasonable. I will rebuild your calipers for free plus parts and
shipping. Powder coating them red or any other color is optional. :-)
Philip
At 12:00 AM 5/10/2003, Alex Pedenko wrote:
><snip>
>The
pistons definitely should not be that hard to push in. Especially
>with no
hydraulic pressure, like when you removed the calipers from the
>car. You
should be able to push them in with your fingers. Are they
>still that
way after you viced them? Did the old pads wear weird?
></snip>
>
>I didn't completely remove the caliper - I
didn't detach the brake
>line, I just took it off the disc and brought the
vice to the car.
>
>The pads did wear differently - on both fronts
the inboard pads were
>worn a good 1 or 2 mm
more...
>
>Alex.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 13:06:30 -0400
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: First
Impressions WAS Team3S: Brake pads
I'm actually worried there maybe some scoring or build up on either the
piston or cylinder wall. Once I pushed it through w/ the vice grip, I could
finish up w/ the pliers.
How much is the rebuild kit and what does it include? If there's no
machining involved, I'll probably be ok, but if not I may take you up on your
offer (including the powder coating part ;) )
Alex.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf Of Philip V. Glazatov
Sent:
Saturday, May 10, 2003 12:17 PM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: RE: First
Impressions WAS Team3S: Brake pads
I think any use of a C-clamp or a vice to push the pistons in is an
overkill. You could cock the pistons and damage the caliper with all that
force. I use channel lock pliers to push in mine, trying to be careful not
to damage the dust seals.
The pads are worn at a slant because one of your pistons is not moving
freely. You need to try moving all of them in and out several times to make
them move freely. Push them in with channel locks and out with the
hydraulic pressure. Do not pump the brake pedal more than once or twice or
you will put some of the pistons all the way out. If the pistons still do
not move freely then you will need to have your caliper rebuilt. Do not
drive like that for long or you will wear out your new pads in no time and
possibly burn the seals and warp the rotors too.
The rebuild seal kit from Mitsubishi is not cheap. I have been looking for
a source for cheaper and better seals to offer caliper rebuilding services
to my customers but I am still looking... Your best bet now is to learn how
to rebuild your calipers yourself or to ask your local brake shops what
they would charge you to rebuild your caliper. Let me know if they are
unreasonable. I will rebuild your calipers for free plus parts and
shipping. Powder coating them red or any other color is optional. :-)
Philip
At 12:00 AM 5/10/2003, Alex Pedenko wrote:
><snip>
>The
pistons definitely should not be that hard to push in. Especially
>with no
hydraulic pressure, like when you removed the calipers from the
>car. You
should be able to push them in with your fingers. Are they
>still that
way after you viced them? Did the old pads wear weird?
></snip>
>
>I didn't completely remove the caliper - I
didn't detach the brake
line,
>I just took it off the disc and brought
the vice to the car.
>
>The pads did wear differently - on both
fronts the inboard pads were
>worn a good 1 or 2 mm
more...
>
>Alex.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 13:27:10 -0400
From: "Christopher Gerard" <
c.w.gerard@worldnet.att.net>
Subject:
Team3S: replacing damaged front bumper trim
The front license plate bracket on my 91 Stealth ES is a pretty poor set-up
(I think it is the stock bracket but I'm not sure). The previous owner put
wood-type screws in the two top holes and the screws have dug into the black
bumper trim beneath the bracket (I should have checked it before I bought it,
but let's get real, it would not have stopped me from buying the car, it was a
good price). Does anyone know the cost of repairing/replacing this bumper trim?
Is it even possible to repair? Also, does anyone know of an alternative bracket
that can be used on the car? I wish I could go front-plate-free, but Ohio is a 2
plate state, arg. Even if I did go without the front plate, the ugly, damaged
bumper would be exposed for everyone to see.
This is my first post--anyone else out there in Cincinnati?
Chris
91 Silver ES
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 15:03:47 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE: First
Impressions WAS Team3S: Brake pads
Usually there is not much scoring, unless you caused it by overtightening
the vice. Most often it is just dirt, rust or some other crud. Cleaning and
light extra fine grit sandpapering usually fixes everything.
The seal kit includes eight piston seals and four dust seals for both front
calipers. I forgot how much it was. Not too much, because I got the seal
kit and new rotors for $200 after the discount, but I definitely decided
that I do not want to have to do it after every track day.
Philip
At 01:06 PM 5/10/2003, Alex Pedenko wrote:
>I'm actually worried
there maybe some scoring or build up on either the
>piston or cylinder
wall. Once I pushed it through w/ the vice grip, I
>could finish up w/
the pliers.
>
>How much is the rebuild kit and what does it include?
If there's no
>machining involved, I'll probably be ok, but if not I may
take you up
>on your offer (including the powder coating part ;)
)
>
>Alex.
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#151
***************************************