Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, May 9
2003 Volume 02 : Number 150
----------------------------------------------------------------------
My 96 3000GT had a similar problem after many years of faithful service.
Turned out to be the idle control motor, although the dealer told me that he
would not be sure 'til he replaced it. :-/ He also warned me that if
I drove it too long in that state that I risked needing a new ECU.
That scared my wallet sufficiently to let him try the idle control; by the
end of the day the car was running fine again.
- --Larry
- -----Original Message-----
From: Williams, Tommy F
Sent: Thursday,
May 08, 2003 8:49 AM
Sounds to me like a TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) problem......
------------------------------
Ok, so I am at the track this past weekend and one of the other drivers
from my class comes over to me and mentions that I do not have any brake
lights. A quick step on the brake pedal confirms his comment and I begin
to think about troubleshooting the issue. Since all the lights are out I
first check the fuse. Pull out the laptop and search the 3S Backup CD (you
should always bring this to the track by the way) for correct fuse
location. Also note Mitsu calls it a Stop Light not brake light as I soon
wound out. I find the fuse and go to pull it out and the sucker will not
budge. Try plastic fuse puller to no avail then get the pliers. I
finally get the 15amp fuse out and lo and behold it is melted. The blue
plastic is all full of bubbles and deformed. Also the plastic around the
socket is also all deformed and melted also. I clean off the dirty
terminal of the fuse (remove melted plastic) and ohm it out to find that the
fuse is not blow. So now I am wondering what is going on here?
So, being the engineer type that I am I clean out the fuse socket and
replace with new fuse to see if it will happen again. In this process I
see something copper attached to the 10amp fuse that is located above the Stop
Light fuse. Removing this fuse I find a copper strip of metal bent around
one of the terminals of the 10amper that extends to the top of the fuse.
(You just never know what you are getting when you buy a used car.) So I
remove the copper piece and sure enough the 10amp fits loosely back into the
socket. I install new Stop Light fuse and sure enough the Stop Lights all
work. Now I start the car and the SRS light now comes on.
So question, what would cause a fuse to melt yet not blow? Is it a
bad fuse, or I wonder if that copper tab had anything to do with it?
I did not check what the 10amp fuse went to and it just so happens that the
label on the fuse box cover is damaged for that fuse.
Just thought I would share this weird experience with the list. Feel
free to comment or delete as you see fit.
Thanks
Dan Labonte
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 May 2003 16:31:46 -0400
From: Mike Willis <
mikevr4@comcast.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Bad Fuse?
I have 93 VR4 w/ moonroof that has windshield being replaced as I type this
message. Safelight Auto is replacing windshield. Any help that
anyone can provide in how to properly remove molding, would be highly
appreciated.
P.S. I'm just trying to be a good wife by helping out a husband who
loves his VR4 <grin>
Yulia Willis
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 14:00:09 -0700
From: "Damien" <
dabinch@actionsd.com>
Subject:
Team3S: What color is my interior?
I've been trying to order a new shift knob for my '93 VR-4, but I have a
dilemma... My interior is clearly dark brown and tan, the shift knob,
boot, center console & dash, doors, panels etc. are brown...carpet, seats
& door inserts are tan. Three different "goodguy" dealers have said
there's only "dark grey" & "black" available. They all matched my VIN
to dark grey... Could anyone shed some light on this?
Damien
------------------------------
>What type of Air Conditioning is installed in a 1995 3000GT? I am
>having problems with it not getting cold and am wondering if I need to
>convert it to the new style. Basically, is it still a Freon System
or
>is it the newer, whatever that is?
Thanks,
Russ
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 15:34:37 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: What color is my interior?
Damien wrote:
> I've been trying to order a new shift knob for my '93
VR-4,
> but I have a dilemma... My interior is clearly dark
brown
> and tan, the shift knob, boot, center console & dash,
doors,
> panels etc. are brown...carpet, seats & door inserts are
tan.
> Three different "goodguy" dealers have said there's only
>
"dark grey" & "black" available. They all matched my VIN to
>
dark grey...
> Could anyone shed some light on this?
Perhaps someone had all the vinyl pieces in your car custom dyed to
a
different color? I've never seen a brown interior in any
3000GT. That
doesn't mean they don't exist, but I've been addicted to
these cars for a
while and looked at quite a few of them. The fact that
your VIN shows dark
gray also causes me to question the brown interior.
- --Erik
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 18:17:45 -0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
brian.geisel@hp.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: What color is my interior?
Are you using a brown light to light your interior?
Did you buy this new or used - could the guy before
you have replaced or
painted it?
Got any pics?
geis
------------------------------
I have a 92 Stealth sohc model with 140,000 miles on it. It used to
belong
to an individual who was about the cars look and wasn't aware it had
an
engine except for oil changes. The car is 100% original with no
mechanical
problems, only the normal wear and tear items. The only problem
left is
after I first start it up for the day it has a hesitation for minute
or two
then it runs fine. I have replaced several items to include; plugs,
rotor,
cap, wires, fuel filter, cleaned the pcv valve, dowsed the
throttle-body
with the dealer recommended cleaner, and the fuel regulator.
All have made
it run better but the hesitation is still there. I would
greatly appreciate
any help.
Thanks, Bryan
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 16:31:02 -0700
From: "Damien" <
dabinch@actionsd.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: What color is my interior?
Yeah, I have a picture of the inside...I just looked at it, and
incredibly
the brown stuff looks grey in the photo, but not in reality in
broad
daylight. I've asked 3 people what color is it and they've all
said,
"brown." I'm going to order the dark grey shift knob, but what a
faux pas
to put beige with grey...I'll send the photo if anyone wants to see
it.
Thanks.
Damien
>Are you using a brown light to light your interior?
Did you buy this new or used - could the guy before
you have replaced or
painted it?
Got any pics?
geis
>Perhaps someone had all the vinyl pieces in your car custom dyed to
a
different color? I've never seen a brown interior in any
3000GT. That
doesn't mean they don't exist, but I've been addicted to
these cars for a
while and looked at quite a few of them. The fact that
your VIN shows dark
gray also causes me to question the brown interior.
- --Erik
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 19:52:17 -0400
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: Team3S:
reading suggestions
Hey gang,
I'm getting close to the point where I'll be by a garage
long
enough to (hopefully) be able to get some serious work done on the
car
('95 VR4). To that end, I want to educate myself to be able to
make
intelligent decisions about the type of work I want done to it,
and
thought it couldn't hurt to read up a bit...
Can anyone make any suggestions as to some reading material?
I'm
looking for books with a good amount of technical content - I'm a
math
major, and should be ok with that aspect, plus I've also taken a
good
amount of physics courses. I have a basic understanding
of
thermodynamics - but it only goes as far as very basic theory.
TIA,
Alex.
'95 VR4
------------------------------
> Can anyone make any suggestions as to some reading material?
I'm
> looking for books with a good amount of technical content - I'm a
math
> major, and should be ok with that aspect, plus I've also taken a
good
> amount of physics courses. I have a basic understanding of
>
thermodynamics - but it only goes as far as very basic theory.
I recommend:
Fast Guys, Rich Guys & Idiots: A Racing Odyssey on the Border of
Obsession, by Sam Moses. Outrageous look at the racing world in 1986. It gives
us all hope that talent can win out over money. Alas, very hard to find. I
loaned my copy to somebody, and I better get it back because they go for $100
and more on the Internet. Maybe you can find one on Ebay.
Rich/slow old poop/probably one of the idiots, especially after THAT PASS
at Road America
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 17:22:09 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 1995 3000GT GT A/C
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Russ Williams" <
3000gt@wildweaselweb.com>
>
What type of Air Conditioning is installed in a 1995 3000GT? I am
having
problems with it not getting cold and am wondering if I need to
convert it to
the new style. Basically, is it still a Freon System or
is it the newer,
whatever that is?
> Thanks,
> Russ
>
www.wildweaselweb.com-
------------------------------->
All Stealth and 3000GT after (and including) 1994 were not using R-12
Freon,
but were equipped with the newer (environmentally friendlier, but
less
efficient) R-I 34-A (HFC134-A) coolant fluid systems. No
conversion is
necessary. Just (possibly) a recharge. Check the
hoses and belts first for
cracking/slippage...
- --Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 20:49:13 -0400
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
reading suggestions
That is probably a very interesting read, but I'm looking for
something
like an engine building/tuning book...
Alex.
> Can anyone make any suggestions as to some reading material?
I'm
> looking for books with a good amount of technical content - I'm a
math
> major, and should be ok with that aspect, plus I've also taken a
good
> amount of physics courses. I have a basic understanding of
>
thermodynamics - but it only goes as far as very basic theory.
I recommend:
Fast Guys, Rich Guys & Idiots: A Racing Odyssey on the Border
of
Obsession, by Sam Moses. Outrageous look at the racing world in 1986.
It
gives us all hope that talent can win out over money. Alas, very hard
to
find. I loaned my copy to somebody, and I better get it back
because
they go for $100 and more on the Internet. Maybe you can find one
on
Ebay.
Rich/slow old poop/probably one of the idiots, especially after
THAT
PASS at Road America
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 18:10:20 -0500 (CDT)
From: Chad and Carol Decker
<
carolnchad@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Gas Mileage
I have been trying to pin down a problem with my gas mileage. I might
have a sticking fuel injector causing gas to get into my oil, but as of now I
have yet to find the oil fuller than what it should be. Therefore, I am
wondering some other causes for running rich...but only in the exhaust.
Such as a computer problem or anything else that would cause me to burn gas in
my exhaust. I will continue to check my oil every morning trying to decide
if I have a sticking injector. I get 10 mpg and the only mods I have is a
new downpipe and exhaust and a K&N filter and charger....well those are the
only ones I know of...I got the car with all of that on it
already.
thanks,
Carol Decker
1991 Stealth R/T TT AWD
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 20:35:38 -0500
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth
(UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
reading suggestions
Well, I hate to beat Jeff to the punch, but you might want to check out
Jeff's site, under the "books" link... He's got a ton of great books listed
there...
www.stealth316.com.
-b
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 23:16:11 -0400
From: "David Thrower" <
repairerr@worldnet.att.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Is the ECU Wiring harness the same for 91 & 92 VR-4???
Jeff,
I agree with you 100 percent on the error thing. I take an open book
test
from Cummins Engine Company every month, and they send an update of
the
service manual with it. Upon looking at this months "Service Topics",
the
caption on one illustration said, "Fig 13, Fuel Pressure sensor
(Top),
P/N.... And Fuel Temperature Sensor (Bottom), P/N..... ", but it
showed an
engine ECM with its pinouts in the illustration. Crazy! And I'm
supposed to
take a certification test from this?
Just my two cents,
Dave Thrower
92 Stealth R/T TT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius
Sent: Tuesday, May 06,
2003 09:01
>> I've pored over my '94 Stealth Manual twice (and
checked
>> Jeff Lucius' pages of the ECM from his ARM-1 install
page),
>> and I can't find a pinout on the ECU for the knock
sensor!
Hint: p 14A-48, 14A-210 (from Vinny's Manual on CD).
Or, in *any* year service manual look in the "fuel" chapter and at
the
circuit diagrams and at the specific page for "knock sensor" in
the
"on-vehicle inspection of MFI components".
I do not list the knock sensor on my web page
because almost no usable information concerning real engine detonation
can
be obtained by monitoring the voltage at this terminal.
>> My installer will NOT work on the car until he
>> is
positive which wires go WHERE!
The DOHC and SOHC ECM terminal assignments are not all the same for
these
two engine types for 1991-1993. However, all DOHC 1991-1993 models have
the
same ECU terminal assignments. Don't believe me? Just look at the
service
manuals. Note, however, that the service manuals do have mistakes in
them
(for example, some of the O2 sensor terminal assignments on some charts
for
some years). And contrary to suggestions by some Team3S members,
Mitsubishi
did not LIE to us, they simply made errors, which is sadly quite
common in
instruction manuals. Careful study on my part of the manuals and of
the
operation of my 1992 Stealth has revealed some of these. Additional
ones
probably remain.
If you are your installer do not trust the service manuals, or my web
pages
(hey, I make mistakes and typos also), he/she can determine the
correctness
of the terminal assignment by simply unplugging the device in
question from
the wiring harness and observing the voltage at the terminal in
question.
As always, corrections and comments concerning my web pages are
welcome.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 00:34:48 -0400
From: "David Thrower" <
repairerr@worldnet.att.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 60k service question, sorry again
Anthony,
It has to come off! I did not use that crazy tool to get
my bolt loose,
Just have all four wheels on the ground, put in in 6th with
the parking
brake on, use a short extension on a long half inch breaker bar
and crank the
bolt loose. The pulley pulls right off. It's not on any taper,
it just is
located to the crankshaft with a rollpin.
This job isn't too bad,
Dave Thrower,
92 Stealth
R/T TT
- -----Original Message-----
From: anthonymelillo
Sent: Tuesday, May
06, 2003 14:41
I was wondering why it was necessary to remove the crank pulley to do
the
timing belt service ? I am not sure how I am going to get
that
bad boy off by myself.
------------------------------
Greetings All:
Is there a difference between the calipers on a first gen VR4 vs SL
and
would the VR4 calipers fit on stock SL 16" rims?
TIA
Jim W
92 SL with way too much invested
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 09:23:13 -0500
From: "Philip Kennedy" <
pkennedy@sfigroupinc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Doing a bit of the 120K service myself on my 94' 3000GT
N/A..
This weekend I'm doing my spark plugs, Fuel Filter, and checking
the
compression on my 94' 3000GT N/A. I would like to thank Eric Gross for
the
helpful and informative VFAQS on his Team3s website
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/ . I'm
trying to take care of all the 120k
service I can do myself, to hopefully
help cut costs. After I have done all
I can, I will let a shop/dealership do
the rest. I noticed that on Eric's
Spark Plug VFAQ he doesn't list a part
number for spark plug cables, which
I'm guessing at 120k they should be
replaced again, right? nevermind found it
(MD193980). Lets see what else I
need to do for my 120k service, Tensioner,
Belts (Timing, Steering, A/C),
water pump, and thermostat, Is that it? All I
have heard on the 120k service
is that it's the 60k service done all over
again nothing more, if I'm wrong
please correct me. If there is anything else
that I can easily do while I'm
under the hood to check for anything needing
replacement, advice will be much
appreciated. Recently I started having
some acceleration problems, when
giving it some gas I feel the engine kinda
putter/stutter a little bit
(doesn't happen all the time). People have told
me all of the above, Fuel
Injectors, Fuel Filter, or Spark Plugs could be
the problem. I was wondering
if anyone has any suggestions on what the
problem might be? I was also
wondering if anyone could recommend anything to
clean off the Intake Plenum,
because mine is kind of dirty.
Philip K.
94' 3000GT N/A
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 10:59:08 -0400
From: "Wadsworth, Kirby" <
Kirby.Wadsworth@revivio.com>
Subject:
Team3S: For Sale - 1994 Dodge Stealth Twin Turbo AWD - 87500m - Bright
Yellow, Cloth, sunroof, CD Changer, Climate Control - Massachusetts
Good Condition
Kirby Wadsworth
(W) 781-301-0155
(M) 508-942-0099
(H)
508-358-2025
(F) 781-274-7168
------------------------------
There are a few "Bibles" in this area. For engines the book is
"Internal
Combustion Engines" by that MIT guy (forgot his name). For
everything else
is "Vehicle Dynamics" by Gilespie and "Race Car Vehicle
Dynamics" by
Milliken and Milliken. There are a bunch of other books, but
they are all
twists on those fundamentals. Brian Geddes has a good book on
tuning. I
lost some of my email, Brian, could you please tell me the name of
that
book again?
Philip
-
---------------------------------------------------------------------
That is probably a very interesting read, but I'm looking for
something
like an engine building/tuning book...
Alex.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 11:18:03 -0400
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: Team3S: Brake
pads
Does anyone have a write-up for changing brake pads? I was looking at
the
service manual, and it seems simple enough, but they refer to
some
special tools for pushing pistons into the caliper. Do I need
those?
Also, I bought r4s pads - do I still need to outgas them? BBQ isn't
an
option (great bodily harm will be inflicted upon me for doing that),
so
what's the on-car procedure?
Thanks,
Alex.
'95 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 11:23:40 -0400
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
reading suggestions
"internal combustion engine fundamentals" by John B. Heywood?
This one:
right?
Alex.
------------------------------
My opinion as the vendor..no. Put em on, drive normal for a day..then
yer
good.
On Fri, 9 May 2003, Alex Pedenko wrote:
> Does anyone have a write-up for changing brake pads? I was looking at
the
> service manual, and it seems simple enough, but they refer to
some
> special tools for pushing pistons into the caliper. Do I need
those?
>
> Also, I bought r4s pads - do I still need to outgas
them? BBQ isn't an
> option (great bodily harm will be inflicted upon me
for doing that), so
> what's the on-car procedure?
>
>
Thanks,
> Alex.
> '95 VR4
- ---
Now offering replacement
Toyota/Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Porsche/SAAB/Volvo parts
Where do you buy YOUR
brakes from?
orders@speedtoys.com Maybe I can
help..asking is free. :)
"If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
>Does anyone have a write-up for changing brake pads? I was looking at
the
service manual, and it seems simple enough, but they refer to
some
special tools for pushing pistons into the caliper. Do I need
those?
Nah, it's a piece of cake.
1. Remove wheel
2. Using needle nose pliers, reach behind the caliper
and pluck out the wiggly safety wire that goes through the two pins. It lifts
straight up.
3. Pull out the two pins that go through the caliper, pads,
spacer plates, and keeper spring. Put your hand over the spring on top so it
doesn't fly off.
4. Lay the pins and springs out nice and neat on the garage
floor, so you can see how it goes back together, and which way the keeper spring
goes (I am not sure it matters).
5. Replace pads, one pad at a time. Use a
big pair of slip joint pliers to grasp the old pad and the caliper, and squeeze
the pistons back on one side. When the pistons are back, replace the old pad
with a new one. Repeat on the other pad.
CAUTION: Do not take both old pads out at once! If you do that, when you
squeeze the pistons back on one side, the other pistons will extend. Drives ya
nuts!
6. Replace the pins. Make sure each pin goes through two pads, two spacer
plates, and the keeper spring. Sometimes you can miss the inner pad or spacer,
and it'll hang down on the rotor. Replace the safety wire. Note: If you position
the pin with the safety wire hole up to start with, it's much easier to put the
safety wire in. Otherwise, you have to wiggle it around until the holes line
up.
6. Bleed brakes (not absolutely necessary, since you are not introducing
any air into the system).
You should be able to change front pads in 15 min. per side EASY. Less, if
you are in a hurry.
>Also, I bought r4s pads - do I still need to outgas them? BBQ isn't
an
>option (great bodily harm will be inflicted upon me for doing that),
so
>what's the on-car procedure?
Drive around for a day or so to "season" the pads (introduce the new pad
material to the rotor). To "bed" the pads, make a few 80-40 mph hard stops until
you smell the pads cooking. Three stops should do it. (I set mine on fire once
by doing it too much). Then drive home carefully, trying not to use the front
brakes at all, and park the car overnight. Brakes will be perfect the next
morning. If you change the pads on Wednesday, drive the car to work Thursday,
and bed the brakes Thursday night, you'll be ready to drive to the track on
Friday.
Rich/slow old poop/somebody stop me!>>
------------------------------
Hey Alex,
Changing brake pads is a piece of cake on our cars and does require
any
special tools. You don't even need to remove the calipers :)
1 Remove tire
2 Remove wire clip that goes through the brake pad
positioning pegs.
3 Slide top peg out and watch were pad centering bracket
pops of to.
4 Remove other peg.
5 Wiggle pad with spacers out through top
of caliper.
6 You might need to use a C-clamp to push brake pistons back in
a
little.
7 Apply some high temp brake grease between back side of pad and
inner
shim. (inner shim is one with slots in it)
8 Insert new pads,
realign with pegs, install wire clip, install
retaining bracket.
I would just drive around a day or so and do a few hard stops from
60mph
to set pads in.
Also use some emery cloth to sand old brake dust / ribs that might
have
formed on rotors.
Good luck
Dan Labonte
- -----Original Message-----
From: Alex Pedenko [mailto:alex@kolosy.com]
Sent: Friday, May 09, 2003 9:18 AM
Does anyone have a write-up for changing brake pads? I was looking at
the
service manual, and it seems simple enough, but they refer to
some
special tools for pushing pistons into the caliper. Do I need
those?
Also, I bought r4s pads - do I still need to outgas them? BBQ isn't
an
option (great bodily harm will be inflicted upon me for doing that),
so
what's the on-car procedure?
Thanks,
Alex.
'95 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 09:57:45 -0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: reading suggestions
Forced Induction Performance Tuning, by A Graham Bell.
- - Brian
------------------------------
Yes, Heywood. That's the book. It is a thick mo-fo! Read it in bed
and
never open it while driving.
Philip
- -------------------------------------------------
"internal combustion engine fundamentals" by John B. Heywood?
This one:
right?
Alex.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 May 2003 13:43:25 -0400
From: ERIC PIERCE PIERCE <
griz600cc@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake pads
Changing the brakes on our cars are rather simple IMHO. I just did them
yesterday. The front brakes have two pistons and are easy to push back
in. I use a clamp to move them back, but they went back rather easy.
The
rear brakes are single pistons on my car. (93 Stealth ES) Just look
for the
clip positions when you put the new brakes in.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Alex Pedenko <
alex@kolosy.com>
Date: Friday, May 9,
2003 11:18 am
> Does anyone have a write-up for changing brake pads? I was looking
> at the service manual, and it seems simple enough, but they
refer
> to some special tools for pushing pistons into the
caliper.
> Do I need those?
>
> Also, I bought r4s pads - do
I still need to outgas them? BBQ
> isn't an option (great bodily harm
will be inflicted upon me
> for doing that), so what's the on-car
procedure?
>
> Thanks,
> Alex.
> '95 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 12:46:16 -0500
From: "Philip Kennedy" <
pkennedy@sfigroupinc.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Doing a bit of the 120K service myself on my 94' 3000GT
N/A..
Oh, another question, Is there anyone in the Central Texas Area
(Austin
Area) that can recommend a good mechanic for our cars? Someone that
knows a
good deal about our cars? I have heard some horror stories about the
local
mitsu dealerships (Maxwell & Gillman) when it comes to
3000GT/Stealth's, i.e
charging to much for a half-assed job and having to go
back a time or two to
get things straight. Well I hope everyone has a great
weekend, wish me luck.
Philip K.
94' 3000GT N/A
> This weekend I'm doing my spark plugs, Fuel Filter, and checking
the
> compression on my 94' 3000GT N/A. I would like to thank Eric Gross
for the
> helpful and informative VFAQS on his Team3s website
>
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/ . I'm
trying to take care of all the 120k
> service I can do myself, to
hopefully help cut costs. After i have done
> all I can, I will let a
shop/dealership do the rest. I noticed that on Eric's
> Spark Plug VFAQ he
doesn't list a part number for spark plug cables, which
> I'm guessing at
120k they should be replaced again, right? nevermind found
> it
(MD193980). Lets see what else I need to do for my 120k service,
>
Tensioner, Belts (Timing, Steering, A/C), water pump, and thermostat,
> Is
that it? All I have heard on the 120k service is that it's the 60k
>
service done all over again nothing more, if I'm wrong please correct
>
me. If there is anything else that I can easily do while I'm under the
>
hood to check for anything needing replacement, advice will be much
>
appreciated. Recently I started having some acceleration problems,
>
when giving it some gas I feel the engine kinda putter/stutter a little
>
bit (doesn't happen all the time). People have told me all of the
> above,
Fuel Injectors, Fuel Filter, or Spark Plugs could be
> the problem. I was
wondering if anyone has any suggestions on what the
> problem might be? I
was also wondering if anyone could recommend anything
> to clean off the
Intake Plenum, because mine is kind of dirty.
>
> Philip K.
>
94' 3000GT N/A
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 May 2003 17:54:59 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: reading suggestions
> Forced Induction Performance Tuning, by A Graham Bell.
Great book! I got it a while back - tons of useful information
presented in a
clear way.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 May 2003 11:17:12 -0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: reading suggestions
Agreed. This is the best book I've read on the subject so far.
Very little fluff, lots of experience, lots of theory. Assumes a decent
working knowledge of 4 stroke engines.
- - Brian
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
mjannusch@attbi.com
[mailto:mjannusch@attbi.com]
> Sent: Friday, May 09, 2003 10:55 AM
>
> > Forced Induction Performance Tuning, by A Graham Bell.
>
> Great book! I got it a while back - tons of useful
>
information presented in a
> clear way.
>
> -Matt
>
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
If anybody wants any of these books, I can probably find them for
you.
Just give me author and title, and I'll tell you where you can buy them.
In fact, for people on this list, I'll find ANY book.
No charge. You
gotta be on the list, though.
Rich/slow old poop
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#150
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