Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, May 8
2003 Volume 02 : Number 149
----------------------------------------------------------------------
I have 13g turbos In a 1993 vr4. I would like to know what size fuel
injectors would be best with these turbos.
Thanks Jim
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 11:22:11 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Fuel Injector Size?
Talk about a loaded question... to "adequately" support 13G'c I am of the
opinion you need a Walboro or Supra fuel pump hard wire per Erik gross's
instructions (check the FAQ pages), an SAFC-2 (they now have dual fuel maps),
and at least 550CC injectors (I personally would run 660's but that's just
me)
Hope this helps
Russ F
CT
93 VR-4 DR650's and supporting mods
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Jawscardodger@cs.com
[mailto:Jawscardodger@cs.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 11:05 AM
I have 13g turbos In a 1993 vr4. I would like to know what size fuel
injectors would be best with these turbos.
Thanks Jim
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 10:30:59 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Back in the fold!
Hi everyone,
I've still read almost all the digests, and just miss my 92 Stealth RT/TT.
Should have never sold it. Anyway, I'll be selling my 97 Talon AWD within a week
or two, but in the mean time, I'm buying a much cheaper, 91 RT/TT again!
I'm unemployed basically, and just cannot have all these similar cars, that
cost too much for my situation. The 91 has a few problems, but nothing I can't
handle. Should be picking it up tonight, wish me luck, and now I'll be able to
chat on here with some relevance again.
Anyone have some 14b's, adapters, and 450cc injectors laying around? hehe,
it begins anew :)
If you want to check out my 97 Talon for sale, use this link for
info/pictures. I've had a couple nibbles, but no one seems really serious.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 11:27:06 -0500 (CDT)
From: "dunkin" <
dunkin@netcarrier.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Cam Springs 60k
Just got done doing my 60k service myself. Just
wanted to make a note on the cam gears. Make sure you line up the timing marks
first before you take the belt off. Even if the cams do spring back I'm pretty
sure piston one will be up and if the cams do move the valves will not hit
against any head. I have heard that people have taken these belts off and bent
their valves because of the spring loaded cams. Yes it can be enough force to do
top end damage!!! Mental note next time I do the job I will lock my cams with
something. They sell a tool for it but you could probably just tie a wire on the
front and back cams to hold them in place when taking off your old belt.
Darius
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 07 May 2003 11:13:05 -0600
From: Janice Findlay <
jefind@shaw.ca>
Subject: Team3S: steering
wheel
I ordered an APC steering wheel for my 93 Dodge Stealth R/T non turbo, but
no one seems to know where to get the adapter kit to made it fit. Has
anyone ever put an aftermarket steering wheel on their vehicle? If so,
where
did you buy the
kit?
Andrew
------------------------------
I saw an adapter kit from MOMO, but I don't quite remember which website I
saw it at. But I do know for a fact that MOMO makes one.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Janice Findlay
[mailto:jefind@shaw.ca]
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 1:13 PM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Team3S:
steering wheel
I ordered an APC steering wheel for my 93 Dodge Stealth R/T non turbo, but
no one seems to know where to get the adapter kit to made it fit. Has
anyone ever put an aftermarket steering wheel on their vehicle? If so,
where
did you buy the
kit?
Andrew
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 14:10:39 -0400
From: Bill Ma <
BillMa@FLAGCOMM.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: steering wheel
I used an Eclipse Momo hub adapter for my Momo steering wheel. You have to
make sure the bolt patterns for the steering wheel are the same. Also, the horn
button wont work since the hub isn't really made for the 3000gts
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 07 May 2003 14:31:36 -0400
From: ERIC PIERCE PIERCE <
griz600cc@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Rear Sway Bar
Greetings all,
I had the right side bracket on the rear sway bar pop off on me while
driving. (Addco sway bar)I ended up making my own bracket to replace it
and bolted it up. No problems with it since. Has anyone else had any
similar problems?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 15:34:18 -0500
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Cam Springs 60k
DSM's can get a neat little aluminum "wedge" that has cam gear teeth
pattern on each side of it, so it fits in between the 2 cam gears, LOCKING them
in place so you can do whatever you want without worrying about the cams
changing position.
I wish somebody made a set of 2 for OUR cars...I didn't think they made 2
for OUR cars.
*** Entrepreneurial Opportunity ***
JT :)
From: "dunkin" <
dunkin@netcarrier.com> doing my
60k service myself. note on the cam gears. Make sure you
> line up timing
marks first before you take the belt off. if the
> cams do spring
back piston one will be up and if the cams do
> move the valves will not
hit against any head. I have heard
> that people have taken these belts
off and bent their valves
> because of the spring loaded cams. Yes it can
be enough force
> to do top end damage!!! They sell a tool for it but you
could
> probably just tie a wire on the front and back cams to
hold
> them in place when taking off your old belt. Darius
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 16:36:22 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Cam Springs 60k
Here's a crazy idea why not check and see if the one for DSM's fits our
cars and then you just buy 2?????
Just my .02
Russ F
CT
- -----Original Message-----
From: xwing
[mailto:xwing@wi.rr.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 4:34 PM
DSM's can get a neat little aluminum "wedge" that has cam gear teeth
pattern on each side of it, so it fits in between the 2 cam gears, LOCKING them
in place so you can do whatever you want without worrying about the cams
changing position.
I wish somebody made a set of 2 for OUR cars...I didn't think they made 2
for OUR cars.
*** Entrepreneurial Opportunity ***
JT :)
------------------------------
I will make those wedges, no prob. One day... But if anyone wants them
right now then contact me privately.
Philip
- --------------------------------------------------------
DSM's can get a neat little aluminum "wedge" that has cam gear teeth
pattern on each side of it, so it fits in between the 2 cam gears, LOCKING them
in place so you can do whatever you want without worrying about the cams
changing position.
I wish somebody made a set of 2 for OUR cars...I didn't think they made 2
for OUR cars.
*** Entrepreneurial Opportunity ***
JT :)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 14:37:38 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Cam Springs 60k
Dear old John at John Adams Garage was touting some dual wedge device he
cobbled up --- says he's going to patent it but I think he had some pictures.
It's just a couple so small wooden wedges and an adjusting screw that pulls them
together point to point and jambs the cam gears together.
Jim Berry
====================================================
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 14:55:49 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Cam Springs 60k
Additional comments:
* Find your local Snap-on Tools guy and buy a DOHC camshaft
sprocket
locker from him. You only need one for the front bank - the
rear bank is not under significant tension with the timing marks aligned.
The $30 you spend on this tool will be the best $30 you've spent on your car in
a LONG time. It's a little "H" - shaped tool that has pegs sticking out of
the corners of the "H" (facing the H in its normal orientation, the 4 pegs would
stick out at you). It installs with the middle bar of the "H" vertically
oriented, and the middle bar is actually a long threaded nut such that turning
the middle bar will spread the "sides" of the "H." By tightening the tool
to the specified torque, you lock the camshaft sprockets and removing and
replacing the belt is MUCH easier. I haven't taken pictures of this tool
(just got it a couple of weeks ago - thanks to Mike Elliot for finding it!) but
I can take some pictures if anyone wants them.
* A trick for getting the tension right on the timing belt...
the
major problem I've had is in the final process of torquing the tensioner
pulley center bolt. Once, I was able to set the tension on the belt, and
then use a torque wrench to get that center bolt to the correct spec without
disturbing the tension. All the other 50+ times (not exaggerating) I've
set the tension on the belt, the pulley moves CW slightly when I tighten the
center bolt, which increases the belt tension, which means I have to do it all
over again. This process sucks. A lot. What I did last time,
was to look at the manual to find the maximum tensioner rod protrusion for a new
timing belt... it is 4.5mm (0.177"). I grabbed my handy-dandy set of
feeler gauges and stacked a few together to make 0.177". Then I inserted
this stack of feeler gauges into the gap where the tensioner rod is, tensioned
the belt, and torqued the center bolt to spec. The gauges were jammed in
there pretty good at this point, but I wiggled them out (scratched one of them,
but I didn't care). We checked the tensioner pin and it was nice and
loose. Checked the tensioner rod protrusion, and it was within spec.
We waited 15 minutes, and the pin was nice and loose. We rotated the
engine like the manual says, waited another 15 minutes, and the pin was nice and
loose. Called it good. Car runs. No problems.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 07 May 2003 18:53:41 -0400
From: Vedran <
1994TT@comcast.net>
Subject: Team3S:
More details--Dead Engine!!!
The belt is turning and I am getting spark to the plugs.
It sound like
there is no compression, the engine does not sound like a regular engine; it's
just turning and sounding like an electric motor solid "zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz" Thanks
Ved 94 TT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 18:16:21 -0500
From: "Steve" <
denon11@insightbb.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: More details--Dead Engine!!!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Vedran
Sent: Wednesday, May 07,
2003 5:54 PM
The belt is turning and I am getting spark to the plugs.
It sound like
there is no compression, the engine does not sound like a regular engine; it's
just turning and sounding like an electric motor solid "zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz" Thanks
Ved 94 TT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 07 May 2003 16:19:32 -0700
From: John Sheehan <
johns@kyso.com>
Subject: Team3S: 60k
Tools
These are the tools that I ended up tracking down a few months ago for
my 60k. The first three worked good. did not try the fourth.
Schley Products Universal Camshaft Pulley Holder
Tool
Order# SP SCH96800
$21.95
Schley Products Mitsubishi Plymouth & Eagle V6 Tension Pulley Spanner
Wrench
Order# SCH98700
$15.95-$18.55
Lisle Dual Overhead Cam (DOHC) Lock
Tool
Order#
LIS-36880
$29.95-$36.95
or
Baum B4500 dual cam locking tool alone or part of a kit with
book
$75.00-$114.00
Take care, John
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 07 May 2003 16:19:32 -0700
From: John Sheehan <
johns@kyso.com>
Subject: Team3S: 60k
Tools
These are the tools that I ended up tracking down a few months ago for
my 60k. The first three worked good. did not try the fourth.
Schley Products Universal Camshaft Pulley Holder
Tool
Order# SP SCH96800
$21.95
Schley Products Mitsubishi Plymouth & Eagle V6 Tension Pulley Spanner
Wrench
Order# SCH98700
$15.95-$18.55
Lisle Dual Overhead Cam (DOHC) Lock
Tool
Order#
LIS-36880
$29.95-$36.95
or
Baum B4500 dual cam locking tool alone or part of a kit with
book
$75.00-$114.00
Take care, John
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 20:11:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: Castawaykev <
castawaykev@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: re: timing belt
Would you trust a mechanic who has never worked on a
Stealth before to
replace the timing belt? A young
local mechanic I know said he could
replace my timing
belt for only $150 Canadian (labour costs). I
am
worried that the job may require special tools that
are stealth
specific. Or can he pull it off as he said
he has changed other timing belts
on many other cars?
I am not willing to risk the engine for saving a few
dollars however if
I can I will.
Kev
------------------------------
depends(tm)
does the kid know which way is up?
its not hard..no special tools..just you have to be smarter than your
keychain to do it.
Even dealer mechanics fuck this up...and its NOT hard.
On Wed, 7 May 2003, Castawaykev wrote:
> Would you trust a mechanic who has never worked on a
> Stealth
before to replace the timing belt? A young
> local mechanic I know
said he could replace my timing
> belt for only $150 Canadian (labour
costs). I am
> worried that the job may require special tools
that
> are stealth specific. Or can he pull it off as he said
> he
has changed other timing belts on many other cars?
>
> I am not
willing to risk the engine for saving a few
> dollars however if I can I
will.
>
> Kev
- ---
Now offering replacement
Toyota/Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Porsche/SAAB/Volvo parts Where do you buy YOUR brakes
from?
orders@speedtoys.com Maybe
I can help..asking is free. :) "If its in stock, we have it!"
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 17:16:49 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
re: timing belt
Provide him a copy of the procedure from the files and see if he still
feels it's a $150 [ Canadian ] job. I think he's underestimating the amount of
work. $150 for an dual overhead cam Honda type is probably reasonable, but dual
overhead cams plus replacing the water pump and adjusting the
tensioner etc.
etc.may raise the price.
It ain't rocket science but it is time consuming --- 3 hours is not an
unreasonable time for a mechanic, but that kind of assumes he's done a
similar car before.
The only special tool is the tool for adjusting the tensioner --- $ 20 or
so but folks have done it without the special tool.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 19:43:48 -0500
From: "Steve" <
denon11@insightbb.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: More details--Dead Engine!!!
Well I hate to be the one to tell you. In my
experience it sounds like
your engine jumped time.
And if it did jump time probably 12 or all your
Valves
are bent.
You need to check all Cyl's for compression.
Check to see if all
camshafts timing marks line up.
and if all the camshaft timing marks lines up
check
the crank timing mark and I bet it does not.
Remove the front Valve
cover and check that none of your rockers have come off. If you find any of the
above, the culprit probably was a bad auto
tensioner.
It is hard to trouble shoot a problem without being there.
I hope I am wrong and the best of luck.
Regards, Steve
Artic White 1995 3000GT SL
- -----Original Message-----
From: Vedran
Sent: Wednesday, May 07,
2003 5:54 PM
The belt is turning and I am getting spark to the plugs.
It sound like
there is no compression, the engine does not sound like a regular engine; it's
just turning and sounding like an electric motor solid "zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz" Thanks
Ved 94 TT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 20:14:28 -0500
From: "Todd D Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
steering wheel
I installed a Momo brand with adaptor:
I don't know if a Momo adaptor will
work with other brands - that would
be
too easy ....
- - tds
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Janice Findlay" <
jefind@shaw.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, May 07,
2003 12:13 PM
> I ordered an APC steering wheel for my 93 Dodge Stealth R/T non turbo,
> but no one seems to know where to get the adapter kit to made it
fit.
> Has anyone ever put an aftermarket steering wheel on their
vehicle? If
> so, where did you buy the kit?
> Andrew
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 20:17:45 -0500
From: "Todd D Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
steering wheel
My Momo horn button works!
I connected the wires. :)
BEEP! BEEP!
- - tds
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 08:34:57 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: More details--Dead Engine!!!
At the risk of asking the obvious, is it out of gas?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Vedran
[mailto:1994TT@comcast.net]
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 6:54 PM
The belt is turning and I am getting spark to the plugs.
It sound like
there is no compression, the engine does not sound like a regular engine; it's
just turning and sounding like an electric motor solid "zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz" Thanks
Ved 94 TT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 08:39:08 -0400
From: Bill Ma <
BillMa@FLAGCOMM.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: steering wheel
LOL. Don't the wires bind up on you since the wiring hub had to be
removed?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 08:37:34 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: re: timing belt
Not that I feel that strongly about the question, but IMHO, the answer
is.......NONONONONONONONONONONONO!
Key words: "young local mechanic"
"only $150
Canadian"
"special tools"
"never worked on a
Stealth before"
"risk the engine"
- -----Original Message-----
From: Castawaykev
[mailto:castawaykev@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 8:11 PM
Would you trust a mechanic who has never worked on a
Stealth before to
replace the timing belt? A young
local mechanic I know said he could
replace my timing
belt for only $150 Canadian (labour costs). I
am
worried that the job may require special tools that
are stealth
specific. Or can he pull it off as he said
he has changed other timing belts
on many other cars?
I am not willing to risk the engine for saving a few
dollars however if
I can I will.
Kev
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 08:41:19 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: re: timing belt
There is at least one special tool you'll need, and it's the tensioner tool
from Miller Tools. I'm assuming that a DOHC is at issue here. Also,
although you don't need to be a rocket scientist to "pull it off," you do need
to have patience and a willingness and desire to make absolutely sure you're
doing it right. In my mind, that means either me on my own car, or a
well-insured dealer, but certainly not a local young mechanic who has no idea
what he's getting into, and against whom you'll have no recourse if he, in
Geoff's words, f*cks it up.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2003 8:16
PM
depends(tm)
does the kid know which way is up?
its not hard..no special tools..just you have to be smarter than your
keychain to do it.
Even dealer mechanics fuck this up...and its NOT hard.
------------------------------
I looked around for an answer to this problem, but couldn't find one.
Everytime it rains horribly where I live, my car has issues.
This time, when I down shift to a stop, the motor revs up in all gears and
then slowly drops down to roughly 900rpms. After that slow fall, it continues on
quite quickly and if I don't rev the motor up quick enough, it dies where ever I
happen to be.
Last night, while looking for the fuse that powers the cigarette lighter, I
pulled most of the fuses, checking them all, and putting them back. After that,
I ran to Wal-Mart real quick and that is when I noticed the problem. It must
have died on me at every stop sign and every red light I came to.
Once I got back to the shop, I played with the coil wire a little bit, last
time it had gotten wet, it caused the car to spudder in acceleration and in
deceleration. But this problem doesn't look like that is the cause of it.
So I pulled out every fuse again and checked to see if I had damaged one in
the replacement of the fuses the first time. Nada. Praying that I may not have
bought another money trap, I drove it home and hoped the problem was from
something getting wet. This morning I got up and started the car. It ran just
fine until the engine heated up and then it started doing it again. That made
for an interesting drive into work.
Have any of ya'll seen or experienced this problem before? Can you help me
out? Little back ground info on the car, that I never really happened to think
of before. The car before I purchased it from a nearby dealership needed a
computer. When you look under the dash, it is the biggest jerry-rig job I have
ever seen. Do you think the problem could be there? Or is there an idle speed
sensor that may need replacement?
Thanks for any help.
Mike Guy
92 Stealth SOHC 5 spd.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 08:48:37 -0400
From: "Williams, Tommy F" <
WilliamsTF@bernstein.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Idle Speed
Sounds to me like a TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) problem......
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 08:01:04 -0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: re: timing belt
I would say no. I have never changed a timing belt in my life, but
proceeded to do my own. Why? Well, I had time to do it, 5 months or
so. I had time to double check, triple check things. This list and
3si were also great resources when I had questions. Time is money for a
mechanic and I don't think this guy, having never worked on a Stealth before
knows what he is getting into. I firmly believe why dealerships F this
service up is because they don't take the time to check their work. I took
my '93 in for the 60k and the dealership messed it up twice.
I would find someone more knowledgeable of cars and spend the money to get
it done right.
Good luck.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 06:41:36 -0600 (MDT)
From: Jim Floyd <
jim_floyd7@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Re: Team3S: steering wheel
Todd,
Did you get to keep your cruise control ?
Jim
------------------------------
I have the same car and it used to do that also until I changed the ECU.
Also does the car start up quickly (like within 3 seconds) when you try or does
it take longer.
Marven Lamarre
92 Dodge Stealth
"Catch Me If You Can"
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 May 2003 13:02:00 -0500
From: "Todd D Shelton" <
tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
steering wheel
I left plenty of slack in the wires running in the steering column which
lead from the horn button and tap into the original horn button harness wires
under the dash.
I moved my cruise control lever to the dash underneath the steering wheel -
I can't stand the 140 mile drives down to my shop in Dallas with no cruise
control. I'm using the original stock wiring etc for it - just moved it to
the bottom of the dash.
I also attach the Pioneer stereo steering wheel control
to the Momo so I
still have audio access too!
- - tds
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Ma" <
BillMa@FLAGCOMM.com>
Sent: Thursday,
May 08, 2003 7:39 AM
> LOL. Don't the wires bind up on you since the wiring hub
> had
to be removed?
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#149
***************************************
