Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth    Wednesday, May 7 2003    Volume 02 : Number 148
 
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Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 07:24:50 -0500
From: "Richard Fennell" <realmstl@charter.net>
Subject: Fw: Team3S: Need help with diagnosing Intermittent LOUD engine knock
 
It sounds to me like a bad wrist pin or a broken valve.
I'd first pull the cams and check the valves.  If that turns out OK, I'd pull the head and check the pistons.
 
Rich
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Joel Anderson" <joelpa@famvid.com>
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2003 6:23 AM
 
> We purchased a '95 VR4 with spun #2 rod bearing as a father/son
> 'bonding' project.  After a new crankshaft, bearings, machine shop
> work etc, she started right up and we were introduced to lifter tick. 
> No big deal. However there was a slight intermittent knock from the
> rear cylinder bank. Just not able to pin it down.  Then at a few
> hundred miles we pulled up to a stop sign and the engine died. Odd.  A
> few more stops with engine dieing and we got out to listen and there
> was a BIG knocking coming from the rear head.  You could feel it if
> you placed your hand on the air plenum.
> Towed her back to the garage.  The knock was so severe I feared a spun
> bearing so I pulled the oil pan and inspected the crank and rod
> bearings, all are fine.   Pulled rear valve cover and could hear a
> clunk/tick as the engine was rotated by hand.  Thought a valve
> was sticking till I realized it happened with the cam rotated
> 180 degrees. Put a wrench on the cam gear bolt just as a reality
> check to assure it was tight, pulled a bit and confirmed.  Now
> the tick is gone and I'm at a loss.  Anyone have experience
> like this?  Suggestions?
>
> Regards,
> Joel Anderson
> '95 VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 06 May 2003 13:00:58 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Is the ECU Wiring harness the same for 91 & 92 VR-4???
 
>> I've pored over my '94 Stealth Manual twice (and checked Jeff Lucius'
>> pages of the ECM from his ARM-1 install page), and I can't find a
>> pinout on the ECU for the knock sensor!
 
Hint: p 14A-48, 14A-210 (from Vinny's Manual on CD).
 
Or, in *any* year service manual look in the "fuel" chapter and at the circuit diagrams and at the specific page for "knock sensor" in the "on-vehicle inspection of MFI components".
 
I do not list the knock sensor on my web page
 
http://www.stealth316.com/2-ecu94.htm
 
because almost no usable information concerning real engine detonation can be obtained by monitoring the voltage at this terminal.
 
>> My installer will NOT work on the car until he
>> is positive which wires go WHERE!
 
The DOHC and SOHC ECM terminal assignments are not all the same for these two engine types for 1991-1993. However, all DOHC 1991-1993 models have the same ECU terminal assignments. Don't believe me? Just look at the service manuals. Note, however, that the service manuals do have mistakes in them (for example, some of the O2 sensor terminal assignments on some charts for some years). And contrary to suggestions by some Team3S members, Mitsubishi did not LIE to us, they simply made errors, which is sadly quite common in instruction manuals. Careful study on my part of the manuals and of the operation of my 1992 Stealth has revealed some of these. Additional ones probably remain.
 
If you are your installer do not trust the service manuals, or my web pages (hey, I make mistakes and typos also), he/she can determine the correctness of the terminal assignment by simply unplugging the device in question from the wiring harness and observing the voltage at the terminal in question.
 
As always, corrections and comments concerning my web pages are welcome.
 
Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 08:25:37 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Wheels/tires
 
When was the last time you had a 4-wheel alignment?  You might consider having that done in conjunction with the new tires ...
 
Chuck Willis
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Tyson Varosyan (E-mail) [mailto:tigran@tigran.com]
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2003 9:05 PM
 
Yea, you are the 3rd to suggest them. I guess I will look into them. My ONLY issue with the Kumhos was the road noise. Living in the Seattle are, it rains a lot up here and the water channel on the Kumhos was AWESOME! I had some Yokos (don't remember which) that came with the car when I first bought it. I cant count how many times I spun them out! Matter of fact, nearly cost me my car like the second week of ownership. I will look into them. If wet traction is good, I will take the advice and get them.
 
Far as wheels, one of the local members in my club showed me the 5Zigen FN01R-C.
(http://www.importhookup.com/wheeloptions/pictures/5zigen/fn01r-c_hb2.jpg)
PERFECT WHEEL as far as looks and design and cost goes!! HOWEVER, its only offered in 17" and I really want an 18. They are so perfect though, that I am thinking about it....
 
Thanks,
 
Tyson
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 08:30:30 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: dealership recommendations
 
It's worth taking to the dealership for the transfer case recall, but the clutch problem can be handled just as well by a clutch specialty shop.
 
Chuck Willis
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: cody [mailto:overclck@satx.rr.com]
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2003 9:27 PM
 
San Antonio????  THAT'S WHERE I AM!!!!
 
But, I wouldn't trust a dealership around here with changing the windshield wiper fluid...  That's why I do my own work...  Sorry, no personal experiences, just reports of warpage and bad work at almost every dealership in town...  But then again, that's your average dealership at least...  If I were to try any, I get along pretty good with the parts manager over at West Loop, but have no direct experience with service...
 
- -Cody
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 08:31:35 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: electrical issues
 
Have you replaced the battery cables yet?
 
Chuck Willis
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael Tanenbaum [mailto:gtg509d@mail.gatech.edu]
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2003 9:51 PM
 
Hi everyone,
 
Thank you for all your advice with getting my car in shape.  It seems as though
I have some overall electrical problem with my car.  First my computer went - I
replaced it with a reman. one.  Then the TPS was giving me fits - replaced the
TPS and the plug that plugs into it.  Upon inspection, the wires leading to the
TPS are corroded.  At first the car worked much better, but now it's back to
hesitating/jerking under acceleration and rpms jump around with no throttle. 
Also, now each time I turn on the car, the electrical system seems to have
reset itself - the air comes on, the clock is at 1:00, and the radio stations
are unprogrammed. 
 
Other electrical issues I've been having are the ECS (it flashes and switches
back and forth, especially when it's wet outside) and the SRS light won't go
off.  I don't know if these would all be symptoms of one problem or not, but
figured I'd share them anyway.
 
Would something like a faulty ground cause these types of problems?  Thank you
so much.
 
Michael
 
'91 Stealth R/T (N/A)
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 09:31:30 -0400
From: Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com
Subject: Team3S: re: '93 GT VR4, Front Air Dam
 
>From: Steve Chen
>Date: 5/5/03
 
> I am probably one of the few who is actually trying to install the
> active aero front air dam.  I bought the car without the front under
> cover.  I have purchased all the required parts as listed in the
> service manual.  I have installed all the parts except the final
> step of mounting the front under cover to the air dam link assembly.
> It appears that I will have to remove the front bumper face in
> order to align the front under cover.  Is this correct?  The
> service manual doesn't give any indication one way or the
> other.  The local dealer mechanic only says that he hates to work
> on these cars and doesn't have much experience with them.  Are
> there any links or pictures that can give me guidance?  Thanks.
 
Steve, there's no need to remove anything. Lift the front of the car off the ground and support it on jack stands. Cycle the active-aero switch so that the air dam would be in the down (on) position. Position yourself so that you are in front of the car and facing the bottom lip of the bumper lower face. Notice the black metal tabs that protrude downward just behind the face. Now position the aero dam in front of you in the same orientation as it will be on the car. Notice the flanges with the metal plates riveted to them. Grasp the dam and tilt it as much as you can so that the flanges are facing upward. Now force the flanges up and between the front face and the protruding metal tabs. Do this across the entire front face of the dam. Now it should be hanging there with the front in place and the back edge dragging the ground.
 
Now crawl under the car and position yourself so that you are behind the air dam and looking forward toward the underside of the front bumper on the passenger side. Remove the access cover that's held on with 4 bolts (it's the piece that's about 4" x 6"). With one hand, grasp one of the bolts and insert it through one of the two mounting holes near the front of the air damn. With the other hand, reach through the access hole in the air dam and grasp the mounting hanger that's dangling from the shaft assembly. Now align the hanger so you can thread the bolt into it. Repeat this procedure on the driver's side. Now that you've got the bolts started, insert the second bolt into each of the hangers and tighten all 4 bolts.
 
Now replace the access covers and all the other bolts that hold the air dam on (except for the ones that broke off when you were removing them!), and fasten the inner fender mud guards to the air dam using those plastic clips.
 
The first time it takes a while. But after you've done it a few times, it's no big deal.
 
Jeff W.
Belleville, MI
'92 VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 08:35:01 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: '93 GT VR4, Front Air Dam
 
Absolutely not.  You do not have to remove the front bumper to do any work on the front air dam. You should be able to do it all yourself without a mechanic, and certainly not one that hates working on these cars and has little experience with them.
 
Just attach the air dam to the little brackets and let 'er rip!
 
Chuck Willis
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Steven Chen [mailto:fourchens@earthlink.net]
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2003 10:10 PM
 
From: Steve Chen
Date: 5/5/03
 
I am probably one of the few who is actually trying to install the active aero front air dam.  I bought the car without the front under cover.  I have purchased all the required parts as listed in the service manual.  I have installed all the parts except the final step of mounting the front under cover to the air dam link assembly. It appears that I will have to remove the front bumper face in order to align the front under cover.  Is this correct?  The service manual doesn't give any indication one way or the other.  The local dealer mechanic only says that he hates to work on these cars and doesn't have much experience with them.  Are there any links or pictures that can give me guidance? Thanks.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 11:03:21 -0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: RE: Team3S: Wheels/tires
 
IMHO, 0.
 
You'd have to -want- to buy wheels with closed enough faces to prevent that.
 
On Tue, 6 May 2003, ERIC PIERCE PIERCE wrote:
 
> I purchased the Moda R6 rims myself from Tire Rack. I also got the
> Yokohoma AVS ES100's. I am very pleased with how they handle.
>
> Just curious, how much does having the open rims help with venting for
> brakes?
 
- ---
Now offering replacement Toyota/Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Porsche/SAAB/Volvo parts Where do you buy YOUR brakes from? orders@speedtoys.com  Maybe I can help..asking is free.  :) "If its in stock, we have it!"
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
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Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 14:41:29 -0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: 60k service question, sorry again
 
I was wondering why it was necessary to remove the crank pulley to do the timing belt service ?  I am not sure how I am going to get that bad boy off by myself.
 
Thanks
Anthony Melillo
1997 VR-4, Firestorm Red http://home.sprintmail.com/~anthonymelillo/3000gt.htm
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 14:40:16 -0400
From: "anthonymelillo" <anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: 60k tools
 
Well, I just contacted Miller Tools and you are not going to believe what the end yoke holder tool now costs.  It is now going for $57 ????  I had them double check just to make sure, and that is what it is selling for.
 
The timing belt tensioner tool is going for $17.47.  So that one isn't to bad.
 
That is crazy for a one time tool, although I am sure it is a major helper, I can't afford that.
 
Just wanted to let you all know.
Anthony Melillo
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 14:44:55 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k service question, sorry again
 
Because you can't remove the lower timing belt cover, and will never be able to time the crank gear, with the pulley in place.
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: anthonymelillo [mailto:anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 2:41 PM
 
I was wondering why it was necessary to remove the crank pulley to do the timing belt service ?  I am not sure how I am going to get that bad boy off by myself.
 
Thanks
Anthony Melillo
1997 VR-4, Firestorm Red http://home.sprintmail.com/~anthonymelillo/3000gt.htm
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 14:50:30 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k tools
 
I made one myself using two pieces of 1" steel bracing.  Here's how I did it.  I took cut a piece of steel bracing about 10 inches long, and another about 4-5 inches long.  I drilled a hole about 1" from each end of the small piece.  I drilled a hole about 4" from the end of the large piece, and about 1" from the same end of the large piece.  Then, using regular 5/16 carriage bolts, I bolted the  two pieces together at the hole that is 4" from the end, forming a "y" .  I then put regular 1-1/2x5/16" carriage bolts into the two holes that are 1" from the end. To use it, you simply insert the bolts at the ends of the Y into the holes in the balancer and, voila, you're very own end yoke holder.  Cost of materials?  Less than $5.00.
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: anthonymelillo [mailto:anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 2:40 PM
 
Well, I just contacted Miller Tools and you are not going to believe what the end yoke holder tool now costs.  It is now going for $57 ????  I had them double check just to make sure, and that is what it is selling for.
 
The timing belt tensioner tool is going for $17.47.  So that one isn't to bad.
 
That is crazy for a one time tool, although I am sure it is a major helper, I can't afford that.
 
Just wanted to let you all know.
Anthony Melillo
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 06 May 2003 18:50:55 +0000
From: mjannusch@attbi.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: 60k service question, sorry again
 
> I was wondering why it was necessary to remove
> the crank pulley to do the timing belt service?
> I am not sure how I am going to get that bad
> boy off by myself.
 
You can't remove the big plastic timing belt cover without taking the crank
pulley off.
 
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 06 May 2003 17:15:25 -0500
From: Joel Anderson <joelpa@famvid.com>
Subject: Team3S: Diagnosing Intermittent LOUD engine knock, camshaft binding?
 
Greetings everyone,
We purchased a '95 VR4 with spun #2 rod bearing as a father/son
'bonding' project.  After a new crankshaft, bearings, machine shop work etc,
she started right up and we were introduced to lifter tick.  No big deal. 
However there was a slight intermittent knock from the rear cylinder bank.
Just not able to pin it down.  Then at a few hundred miles we pulled up to
a stop sign and the engine died. Odd.  A few more stops with engine dieing
and we got out to listen and there was a BIG knocking coming from the rear
head.  You could feel it if you placed your hand on the air plenum.  Towed
her back to the garage.  The knock was so severe I feared a spun bearing so
I pulled the oil pan and inspected the crank and rod bearings, all are
fine.   Pulled rear valve cover and could hear a clunk/tick as the engine
was rotated by hand.  Thought a valve was sticking till I realized it
happened with the cam rotated 180 degrees. Put a wrench on the cam gear
bolt just as a reality check to assure it was tight, pulled a bit and
confirmed.  Now the tick is gone and I'm at a loss.  Anyone have experience
like this?  Suggestions?
 
Regards,
Joel Anderson
'95 VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 14:50:30 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k tools
 
I made one myself using two pieces of 1" steel bracing.  Here's how I did it.  I took cut a piece of steel bracing about 10 inches long, and another about 4-5 inches long.  I drilled a hole about 1" from each end of the small piece.  I drilled a hole about 4" from the end of the large piece, and about 1" from the same end of the large piece.  Then, using regular 5/16 carriage bolts, I bolted the  two pieces together at the hole that is 4" from the end, forming a "y" .  I then put regular 1-1/2x5/16" carriage bolts into the two holes that are 1" from the end. To use it, you simply insert the bolts at the ends of the Y into the holes in the balancer and, voila, you're very own end yoke holder.  Cost of materials?  Less than $5.00.
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: anthonymelillo [mailto:anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 2:40 PM
 
Well, I just contacted Miller Tools and you are not going to believe what the end yoke holder tool now costs.  It is now going for $57 ????  I had them double check just to make sure, and that is what it is selling for.
 
The timing belt tensioner tool is going for $17.47.  So that one isn't to bad.
 
That is crazy for a one time tool, although I am sure it is a major helper, I can't afford that.
 
Just wanted to let you all know.
Anthony Melillo
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 06 May 2003 17:15:25 -0500
From: Joel Anderson <joelpa@famvid.com>
Subject: Team3S: Diagnosing Intermittent LOUD engine knock, camshaft binding?
 
Greetings everyone,
We purchased a '95 VR4 with spun #2 rod bearing as a father/son
'bonding' project.  After a new crankshaft, bearings, machine shop work etc,
she started right up and we were introduced to lifter tick.  No big deal. 
However there was a slight intermittent knock from the rear cylinder bank
Just not able to pin it down.  Then at a few hundred miles we pulled up to
a stop sign and the engine died. Odd.  A few more stops with engine dieing
and we got out to listen and there was a BIG knocking coming from the rear
head.  You could feel it if you placed your hand on the air plenum.  Towed
her back to the garage.  The knock was so severe I feared a spun bearing so
I pulled the oil pan and inspected the crank and rod bearings, all are
fine.   Pulled rear valve cover and could hear a clunk/tick as the engine
was rotated by hand.  Thought a valve was sticking till I realized it
happened with the cam rotated 180 degrees. Put a wrench on the cam gear
bolt just as a reality check to assure it was tight, pulled a bit and
confirmed.  Now the tick is gone and I'm at a loss.  Anyone have experience
like this?  Suggestions?
 
Regards,
Joel Anderson
'95 VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 20:01:55 -0700
From: "Richard L. Barron" <radanc@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: For Sale
 
This will be my last post of this for a while but I still have the following for sale if anyone is interested:
 
>From a 92 stealth TT:
 
2 stock 5 spoke rims (silver) alloy
stock front and back springs
2 9B turbos
2 stock intercoolers
2 stock front calipers
2 stock front rotor mounting hats
full front and back set of Goodridge steel braided lines with attachment components 1 IHI RHF 55 ball bearing turbo 4 camshafts (Jack they're yours if you still want them) 1 Walbro 341 HP pump (with kit now) (not used) 1 stock cat back exhaust
 
Rich
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 06 May 2003 23:17:32 -0400
From: Vedran <1994TT@comcast.net>
Subject: Team3S: Dead engine!!!!
 
The engine in my 94 TT  just turns but it does not fire at all.  It sounds like an electric motor, just turning. Could it be the injectors or maybe the valves?? I have no idea. Thanks Ved 94 TT
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 6 May 2003 22:28:58 -0600
From: "Moe Prasad" <mprasad@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dead engine!!!!
 
I think a few more details will help.
 
1:  Is the engine actually turning (i.e belt moving) -  If no, could be just the starter
2: If the engine is turning, are you getting spark to the plugs?  If no, could be a number of things
 
It is hard to trouble shoot without more details.
 
Rgds
Moe
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Vedran" <1994TT@comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2003 9:17 PM
 
> The engine in my 94 TT  just turns but it does not fire at all.  It
> sounds like an electric motor, just turning.  Could it be the
> injectors or maybe the valves??  I have no idea.
> Thanks
> Ved
> 94 TT
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 09:18:28 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Some 60k Service tips (was 60K Tools)
 
Anthony:  You mean hold it from turning while you're cranking on the bolt?  No, that's what the end yoke holder does.  You'll be using one hand to hold the end yoke holder, and the other hand to torque on the bolt with your breaker bar.  However, you will need a harmonic balancer puller to get the balancer/pulley off the crank.  If you don't have one, you usually can rent one from a local parts shop for a few bucks.
 
I've been through this exercise, so if you have any questions or want some advice, let me know.  About the best advice that I can give is BE PATIENT.  Although taking everything apart is relatively easy, putting everything back together is tedious.  A few things to watch out for:
 
1.  Line up all your timing marks BEFORE you cut your old belt off. This will save you a lot of time getting the thing timed when you're ready to put your new belt on.  If the marks are off, turn the crank using a breaker bar until everything is lined up.
 
2.  BE CAREFUL when taking the old belt off, because the cam gears are likely to be under spring load from the valves.  They can snap back very violently--probably enough to take your fingers off if they're in the wrong place.  My advice is this. You know how the service manual tells you to use those spring paper clips around the cams when putting on your new belt?  Well, put them on your old belt too before you cut it off, and then cut it off at the bottom near the crank gear.  That will prevent applying pressure to the cams and allowing them to snap back, and will keep the timing belt in place, thus "locking" the cam gears in place. And do CUT your old belt off.  It's easier that way.
 
3.  TAKE YOUR TIME with the auto tensioner.  Even with the special tool, getting the tensioner in spec is a pain in the ass.  But don't skimp on time and patience on this step because it can cost you your motor.  Make sure you follow all the steps:  Align your timing marks, back the crank gear off one tooth, put the belt on, tension it up, re-check your marks, rotate the engine by hand two full times using the crank, let it sit for 10 minutes, and then check your measurements on the auto tensioner.  If it's out of spec, do it all over again!  And don't get frustrated by the number of times the friggin' cam gears snap back, thus forcing you to retime them all over again!  I think I had to do mine almost 10 times before everything was within spec.
 
4.  DON'T use the cams to crank the engine on the above step, because you will cause your timing belt to jump.  You MUST use the crank to turn the cams--you can't use the cams to turn the crank.
 
5.  DON'T over tighten the bolts to the water pump.  They go into soft aluminum, and are easily stripped.  Follow the mfg torque specs, and don't give them that extra "little bit."
 
6.  Make sure you apply antifreeze to the O-Ring on the water pipe.  It makes it A LOT easier to install, and prevents the O-Ring from crumbling up and squeezing out.  You can't see if it's in right when the pump is on, so this little additional step can save you a lot of time.
 
7.  I used a General electronic caliper to take the measurements on the auto tensioner.  Now, you don't need to go to that extreme (the thing cost me around $70), but I would use a caliper rather than trying to eyeball it with a ruler.  If you don't already have a caliper, chances are you have thought about buying one in the past (am I right?), so now's your chance.  Make sure the one you get takes inside measurements, not just outside measurements.  Here's the one I used: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00004T7UC/ref%3Dnosim/lksmsubsit
e-sub-th-asin-20/104-6824938-3743964
 
8. NO SHORTCUTS.
 
That's about all I can think of right now.  Good luck!
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #148
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