Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, May 5
2003 Volume 02 : Number 146
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 03 May 2003 23:04:14 -0500
From: Jon Paine <
ppainej@attglobal.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Bleeding Clutch
There is a vacuum booster on the clutch master cylinder. The booster
is
inside the firewall, that's probably why you didn't notice it. When
you
operate the clutch with the vacuum exhausted, you're probably also
pumping
air in and out of the booster unit...
Jon Paine
Arthurs Family wrote:
> Pedal is stiff, no bubbles in jar, in a "normal" car I'd be
finished,
> but now I'm spooked! What is the connection between a
vac line and a
> hydraulic clutch?
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 23:14:28 -0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Converting from Lbs/Min to CFM?
I did a bunch of calculations in lbs per minute, and uhh well I don't know
how to get that into CFM. Anyone give me the formula please? :) Donald Ashby '93
3000GT VR-4 (RIP) "Don't drink and park, accidents cause people!"
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 04 May 2003 11:08:56 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Converting from Lbs/Min to CFM?
If you are looking at turbo performance, you need to know the density of
the air in pounds/cubic foot (lb/cf). Use the first calculator on my web page
below to find that (formula included).
If you are looking at engine air flow, use the 2nd calculator to determine
CFM based on displacement, RPM, and volumetric efficiency. Note that real engine
CFM is completely independent of the density of the air. That means you do not
need to know lbs/min or lb/cf to determine CFM in an engine. Leave density at 1
to determine real CFM. Supply a density value not equal to 1 to determine
effective CFM (or effective VE). The critical factor is volumetric efficiency
and that changes throughout the RPM range. You can use engine torque as a guide
to determine (relative) volumetric efficiency (VE). For our stock engines,
empirical evidence suggests max torque corresponds to a peak VE of maybe 95%
around 3000 RPM. For modified engines, count on peak torque and peak VE to be
slightly more and at higher RPM. These high values are a tribute the very good
factory heads.
- ---------- Original Message -------------
Date: Sat, 3 May 2003
23:14:28 -0600
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
I did a bunch of calculations in lbs per minute, and uhh well I don't know
how to get that into CFM. Anyone give me the formula please? :) Donald
Ashby
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 04 May 2003 11:28:10 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Bleeding Clutch
The clutch system uses a reservoir located low in the engine bay near the
front passenger's side wheel well to "store" vacuum (making clutch operation
easy under boost when the check valve is closed in the clutch boost hose
connected to the plenum). If this reservoir is connected correctly to the
booster, we really should not "run out of vacuum". Maybe Jonathan has not
connected this reservoir yet, or it is not connected correctly, or there is a
leak in the hoses, pipes, or reservoir.
As Jon suggests, if air is being pumped into the clutch booster hoses, the
check valve may be missing or broken or there is a leak in a hose or pipe.
- ---------- Original Message -------------
Date: Sat, 03 May 2003
23:04:14 -0500
From: Jon Paine <
ppainej@attglobal.net>
There is a vacuum booster on the clutch master cylinder. The booster
is
inside the firewall, that's probably why you didn't notice it. When
you
operate the clutch with the vacuum exhausted, you're probably also
pumping
air in and out of the booster unit...
Jon Paine
Arthurs Family wrote:
> Pedal is stiff, no bubbles in jar, in a "normal" car I'd be
finished,
> but now I'm spooked! What is the connection between a
vac line and a
> hydraulic clutch?
------------------------------
Hey All,
I've had my 92 VR-4 for about a month now and love it. My left thigh
has grown significantly in girth, however, as a result of pushing in on a very
stiff clutch. Recent posts to the list are beginning to make me think that
this may not be normal.
What would cause my power assist not to work properly? If there is a
leak in the vacuum system, wouldn't that also affect other vacuum operated
systems on the car?
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 07:30:13 -0400
From: "Arthurs Family" <
arthursfam@madbbs.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Bleeding Clutch Clarification
Thanks to all who responded to my bleeding clutch (and all previous)
question. I was unclear on the first question. At this point I have
few vac lines connected, and definitely not the vac storage tank. I'm just
wondering if I can assume that the hydraulic aspect of the bleeding process is
completed since there are no bubbles and the pedal is "stiff", or will I have to
re-bleed once the vac lines are hooked up, the engine running, and vacuum
created.
One more point I must make....a special thanks to those to those who
responded to my question several weeks back about re-installing the engine/motor
(let's not start THAT again) as a unit with trans attached! And an EXTRA SPECIAL
thanks to Mr. Crabtree who sent the pics. You're right Jeff, the
load leveler was the best darn tool investment I ever made! Took less than
a half hour for the two of us to drop it in and bolt it to the mounts!
Thank you again,
Jon Arthurs
Jamestown, NY
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 04 May 2003 10:43:34 -0400
From: ERIC PIERCE PIERCE <
griz600cc@comcast.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Brake Lines
I have a 93 Stealth ES (white) and I have two questions.
1) I recently purchased steel braded brake lines for the car. When I go
to change the brake lines, do I have to worry about locking anything
up?
I tried looking through posts but was unable to locate anything.
2) My battery will no longer hold a charge. Any recommendations on a
battery to replace the stock one with?
Thanks for the assistance.
Eimon
------------------------------
After reviewing the 60k service pages, many thanks for the very informative
and well done pages, I have decided to do the 60k service myself. The only
item that I am unsure about are the cam and crank seals. Are they
recommended to be replaced in the 60k or 120k service ?
I was wondering where can I get, or possibly borrow, the two special tools,
the good end yoke holder as I will be doing this myself. I saw the reference to
millertools on the Team3s Page, but am not sure who that is.
Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 15:23:25 -0400
From: Russ Williams <
3000gt@wildweaselweb.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Changing Bulbs in the Dome Light
How do I take the dome light assembly off so that I can change a bulb in
that?
Thanks,
Russ
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 04 May 2003 14:00:30 -0600
From: "Zach Sauerman" <
axemaddock@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Troubleshooting my clutch malfunction
I did some more troubleshooting and think that everything that can be seen
in the footwell is fine. I don't think it is a hydraulic problem either,
because the fluid level hasn't changed. Pedal movement feels just about fine
with the motor off, only a little bit lighter than it did before. But with
the motor running, things change.
When the pedal gets to where the clutch would begin to disengage, there is
vibration in the pedal, and a quiet squeaking sound matching the feeling in
the pedal.
Pedal movement is rough and shaky, not smooth and fluid like it was before.
Clutch engagement doesn't happen until just about I have completely let off
the pedal- about where freeplay stopped before.
Again, if anyone can give me some help in going the right direction, I
would
sure appreciate it. Or if this is a fight better left to the
shop.
Respectfully,
Zach Sauerman
'94 Pearl Yellow TT
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 04 May 2003 16:18:51 -0700
From: Jim Elferdink <
macintosh@sunra.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 60k tools
Their prices and availability are much better than Mitsubishi¹s. The
tensioner, MD998767 is $16.80 and the end yoke holder ‹ which really works
‹ (they call it a spanner wrench), 6958 is $24.09. These prices are a
couple of years old.
Forrest: You might want to add this info to the 60K page...
- --Jim
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 19:51:11 -0400
From: "Steven Chen" <
fourchens@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Fw: Team3S: Changing Bulbs in the Dome Light
To: Russ Williams
From: Steve Chen
Date: 5/4/03
I just had my '93 VR4 at the dealer and they replaced the bulb as part of
routine service. They told me that the dome light bracket has 4 clips .
Supposedly, you just need to gently push back 2 of the clips (1 end) and gently
pry back the bracket.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 4 May 2003 22:14:54 -0400
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Somewhat OT: changing automatic transmission fluid
Somewhat OT because this may apply to the auto folks on here as
well...
I was working on my girlfriend's Mazda Protégé, trying to figure out how to
change her transaxle fluid and in the process of looking for info online, I
stumbled onto a site that said that to completely change the fluid, I should
unplug one of the return lines, start the engine and just add fluid at the same
rate as it comes out. Now, this isn't my car and even if it was, I don't like
the idea of frying a tranny... Does this procedure seem reasonable?
Thanks,
Alex
'95 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 04 May 2003 23:22:19 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Somewhat OT: changing automatic transmission fluid
During an automatic transmission oil change, there is still a whole lot of
old oil that stays in the transmission. Most of it is in the torque
converter, which usually does not drain during an oil change, or even if it
does, then only by 1/2. Some cars have special plugs to grain torque
converters. Then lots of oil stays in the valve body, clutches, etc,
etc.
It is an interesting that they are proposing to change the oil while the
engine is idling. There is no threat of frying the transmission here. All
of the transmission clutches are normally disengaged, so if there is some
oil starvation, they will just slip. If the car is sitting idling in park
or neutral without any load then slipping automatic transmission clutches
are not a problem. This is what they do anyway most of the time. But do not
let them sit like that for long. Those clutches still need some
lubrication, even if there is no load.
I hope that website suggests to drain the transmission fluid first and fill
it up with that amount of fluid. The real threat in this new procedure is
that it is possible that this oil change will not be more efficient than
changing the oil in a conventional manner. Maybe not even more efficient
than changing the oil twice. But I hope they know that they are talking
about. I would give it a try. But don't just start poring fresh oil into a
transmission that is full of old oil. That won't help drain that old oil
any time soon.
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 May 2003 06:23:29 -0500
From: Joel Anderson <
joelpa@famvid.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Need help with diagnosing Intermittent LOUD engine knock
We purchased a '95 VR4 with spun #2 rod bearing as a father/son 'bonding'
project. After a new crankshaft, bearings, machine shop work etc, she
started right up and we were introduced to lifter tick. No big
deal.
However there was a slight intermittent knock from the rear
cylinder bank.
Just not able to pin it down. Then at a few hundred
miles we pulled up to
a stop sign and the engine died. Odd. A few more
stops with engine dieing
and we got out to listen and there was a BIG
knocking coming from the rear
head. You could feel it if you placed
your hand on the air plenum. Towed
her back to the garage. The
knock was so severe I feared a spun bearing so
I pulled the oil pan and
inspected the crank and rod bearings, all are
fine. Pulled rear
valve cover and could hear a clunk/tick as the engine
was rotated by
hand. Thought a valve was sticking till I realized it
happened with
the cam rotated 180 degrees. Put a wrench on the cam gear
bolt just as a
reality check to assure it was tight, pulled a bit and
confirmed. Now
the tick is gone and I'm at a loss. Anyone have experience
like
this? Suggestions?
Regards,
Joel Anderson
'95 VR4
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#146
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