Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, May 3
2003 Volume 02 : Number 145
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Date: Fri, 02 May 2003 13:51:18 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Air-Box/Filter Upgrade
K&N info:
Do I need to manufacture an "Air-Box" if I get rid of my Factory Air-Filter
and what model of K & N filter is recommended? Is there anything special
that I need to do when I install the filter or does it just go straight in? Do I
even need an "Air-Box?"
Cheers....HOF.
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Date: Fri, 02 May 2003 13:50:24 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: boost problems after Y-pipe install
>> Can the larger hose size and larger connection
>> be
sending the actuator a decreased reference signal?
OK. You connected the hose to the Y-pipe. Larger hose sizes will not change
the amount of pressure reaching the wastegate actuators. They might cause a very
miniscule delay in the actuators seeing pressure changes at the Y-pipe, but I
doubt you could notice this with reasonably sized-hoses (say smaller than a golf
ball can fit in?).
The fact that the wastegates appear to be opening around 7 psi indicates
all y-pipe pressure is reaching the actuators. For the boost to build higher
than the wastegate opening pressure (6-7 psi), the hose(s) from the Y-pipe to
the actuators must be either restricted (a clamp or valve) or bled (valve -
manually controlled or electronically).
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Yeah, Joe, I definitely misunderstood your previous posts. I don't know
what the little piece of metal is that you describe. However, I now
believe when you replaced the vacuum lines, you corrected a leak that you had in
the lines that connect to the top port on the boost controller solenoid that was
working like a manual boost controller and letting the car overboost. Now
it works as designed.
Chuck
- -----Original Message-----
From: Starkey, Jr., Joseph
[mailto:starkeyje@bipc.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2003 5:19 PM
Based on the e-mails I got from others, I think there is a miscommunication
here. I reconnected the hose to the Y-Pipe, I just didn't use the little
metal piece that was attached to the stock Y-Pipe because (1) it didn't fit (the
aftermarket hose connection on the Y-Pipe was much bigger) and (2) I thought I
didn't need it, and (3) I changed my hoses to the Hosetech silicone setup.
Also, I use the 6-7 psi only as a reference as indicated on the stock boost
gauge. I know the stock
gauge is inherently inaccurate. But
before I made these mods, the
stock boost gauge would bury itself at the
14psi mark (I know it's nowhere near 14, because it's stock). Now it won't
go past the midline.
Can the larger hose size and larger connection be sending the actuator a
decreased reference signal?
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Date: Sat, 3 May 2003 16:41:42 -0400
From: "Arthurs Family" <
arthursfam@madbbs.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Bleeding Clutch
Greetings, once again.
I have completed rebuild on my engine ('92 Stealth TT), have dropped it
into place, and now am making the myriad of connections. Since I am
working from the bottom, up with the connections, I thought this an ideal time
to bleed the clutch.....lots of room & all. Things were going fine
until I noticed one of the caps I used to cap my vacuum lines was "breathing" in
tempo to engaging & disengaging pedal.
Pedal is stiff, no bubbles in jar, in a "normal" car I'd be finished, but
now I'm spooked! What is the connection between a vac line and a hydraulic
clutch?
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#145
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