Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, April 25
2003 Volume 02 : Number 138
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 02:10:33 +0000
From: "gareth hannah" <
alcoholika_02@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Polyurethane motor mounts! and mount install
I need motor mounts really bad, and am just wondering everyone's opinion on
3sx's polyurethane mounts! how well they work? ride quality? do they squeak?
or should I stick with stock mounts?
and also wondering if there are any
pointers or tips to installing new
mounts!?
thanx
Gareth
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 18:39:27 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: Team3S: no
spark, it seems
It has been awhile since I've posted anything here. I have 1500 unread
Team3S e-mails and I still owe the list my 120k tune-up list... =( I
apologize, but I haven't forgotten. Moving on...
I was autocrossing over the weekend. Like usual, I took my baby to around
7k rpm. I had already taken about 30 runs over the last month. On my
last "fun run" I was at 7k rpm in 1st gear. I hit the brakes to prepare
for the corner, and upshifted to 2nd. The engine died. It didn't
sound like hesitation or fuel starvation. It just died. I rolled off
the track and diagnosed. It looked like no spark, since I could still hear
the fuel pump motor whirring while my friend cranked the engine, but the spare
plug that I attached to the end of the ignition wire wouldn't arc to the
motor. If there is spark, then it is VERY weak, and not even sufficient to
fire the engine. I think it's the ECU since it has 200k miles on it and
I've never checked the capacitors. I have also heard the notorious "dash tick" a
lot which I've been trying to blame on a noisy boost solenoid. The three
secondary coils are almost brand new. The power transistor... they just
don't go bad... do they? And the crankshaft/camshaft sensors... do they go
bad? I'm not sure.
Anyway, I'm pretty sure I covered the full list of the ignition system
there. I'm going to do a further diagnosis when I get the chance.
Any hints, tips, or rec's before I dive in?
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
trailered a dead stealth from CALEXPO
sacramento to south bay san francisco =(
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 00:18:49 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Data logger for Second Gen
There is also LabJack out there:
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~gphilip/labjack.htmlI
think they sell it for $119 now. It is a great little box that you hook
up
to your USB-equipped laptop. It is perfect for fine-tuning your fuel
maps.
It can also be programmed to trigger outputs and generate signals. It
also
could be used as an oscilloscope, which I successfully used to
troubleshoot
a bunch of problems of my car and other cars too. If does not
log knock
because knock is a very high-frequency and low-amplitude signal
and it has
to be filtered and interpreted correctly. It is also not set up
to look at
the ignition timing, but that you cannot change that anyway
unless you get
an Apexi ITC. To get around the these deficiencies, I
suggest that you look
into getting the new Apexi S-AFC-II. It has a some
sort of indicator for
engine knock. I have not read any test reports on it.
Has anyone tried it?
Does it show anything?
The installation is not hard. It is a matter or knowing which ECU wire to
tap into. You can plastic electric wire taps if you want. All the wires
that are needed are at the ECU, so there is no need to do any other wiring
work.
Philip
At 09:59 PM 4/23/2003, Matt Jannusch wrote:
>It is actually only the
'94-95 cars that have the incompatible logger
>format. '91-93 can
use a TMO Datalogger, or PocketLogger, or
>Tunerstein, or similar.
'96-99 can use any OBD-2 logger (many
>available). The '94-95 cars
can only directly connect to a Mitsubishi
>MUT-II scan tool ($2000 or so)
for logging purposes, and you can't see
>knock count from there - which
is what most people are looking for.
>
>For '94-95 cars there are a
couple other options. You can use some
>off-the-shelf data
acquisition equipment interfaced with a laptop
>computer, or the EFI
Systems PMS will allow you to datalog most
>anything other than raw knock
count, or you can upgrade to a standalone
>ECU like the AEM EMS which
provides its own logging interface for
>everything going on inside the
unit. Some people are using the extra
>analog input on the
Super-AFC and just watching the voltage reading as
>a rough guide for
knock - although that seems iffy to me. You can also
>retrofit a
'93 ECU by rewiring some of the harness connections and then
>using the
TMO or PocketLogger.
>
>It is the cheap and easy route that's
lacking for '94-95 at this point.
>With enough determination and money,
anything is possible now.
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 22:57:29 -0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <
kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: no spark, it seems
Yes, the power transistors do go bad. I've had to replace mine twice!
Don't rule it out.
- -Ken
> which I've been trying to blame on a noisy boost solenoid. The
three
> secondary coils are almost brand new. The power
transistor... they
> just don't go bad... do they? And the
crankshaft/camshaft sensors...
> do they go bad? I'm not
sure.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 01:35:14 -0500
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Polyurethane motor mounts! and mount install
Had good luck with mine so far. I do have ONE small
complaint. It seems like it was EXTREMELY difficult to line up the holes
for all of the motor mounts when I was doing my engine install. I was
literally kneeling on the intake plenum with a wrecking bar prying the motor
this way and that to get each bolt through the brackets and through the
mounts. I even loosened all the bolts on the motor mounts thinking that
they might have some "play" in them that way. I think, maybe, one of mine
was mis-molded just slightly, causing an alignment problem for the other
three. I finally got them all in though.
I have to say, I was on the fence about whether to go with the stock
rubber or the poly 3SX mounts. I was leaning toward the rubber because I
had heard that the poly mounts would transmit more vibration from the motor at
idle. My experience here has shown this vibration to be noticeable, but
negligible.
All in all, I'd recommend the 3SX polyurethane mounts...I think
they're a fair price for a solid (no pun intended) product.
My two cents....
- -Jeff Crabtree
St. Louis, MO
- -----Original Message-----
From: gareth hannah
Sent: Wednesday,
April 23, 2003 9:11 PM
I need motor mounts really bad, and am just wondering everyone's opinion on
3sx's polyurethane mounts! how well they work? ride quality? do they squeak? or
should I stick with stock mounts? and also wondering if there are any pointers
or tips to installing new mounts!? thanx Gareth
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 03:29:29 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Polyurethane motor mounts! and mount install
Gareth - I don't have any install notes since I had mine done at a
mechanic's shop. I did have one small complaint that 3SX sold motor mounts
early on that were not staked (a small screw into the poly portion that prevents
it from "walking" out of the mount). They also did not follow-up with
those who bought their mounts to say that this was an option. I had to
find out the hard way when my mount (the one in the driver's side and front of
the engine - the easy one to see) was 1/2" farther forward of the mount and
about two weeks later it was 3/4" inch forward in the mount (pics
tomorrow).
However, 3SX DID send me a replacement mount so kudos to them and I have to
applaud their efforts and customer satisfaction. I'm in the process of
replacing one mount with the new one from 3SX and will try to post some
instruction since this is the only one I'm working on at the moment.
Jeff - for your mounts I have no doubt that you had at least one that was
not lined up. Removing my front corner mount was easy once all the
bolts/nuts were loose. In fact, it took just a little tapping to get the
"through pin" out of the mount. However, getting the replacement mount in
took a bit of banging and work and I tried everything from jacking up the engine
to jacking up the car frame in order to try and align the holes in the mount for
the through pin. After surveying the problem I noticed that the
replacement mount from 3SX has the hole in the geometric center of the mount
whereas the original mount has the hole off-center (like half an inch off-center
toward the 7 o'clock position).
There was no way possible that I was going to get this to fit in the car so
I'll be returning it to 3SX for yet another replacement. Perhaps my fault
for not taking a picture of the mount before asking for a replacement but I'll
be sure to place some paper on mine and making a template to show exactly where
the hole should be. There should not be a problem the next time I try this
though.
As for recommendations? I definitely agree that the solid mounts are
a good investment. The 3SX mounts were not all that more expensive than
the stock ones but offer a ton more performance so the decision was easy.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: William J. Crabtree
Sent:
Thursday, April 24, 2003 02:35
Had good luck with mine so far. I do have ONE small
complaint. It seems like it was EXTREMELY difficult to line up the holes
for all of the motor mounts when I was doing my engine install. I was
literally kneeling on the intake plenum with a wrecking bar prying the motor
this way and that to get each bolt through the brackets and through the
mounts. I even loosened all the bolts on the motor mounts thinking that
they might have some "play" in them that way. I think, maybe, one of mine
was mis-molded just slightly, causing an alignment problem for the other
three. I finally got them all in though.
I have to say, I was on the fence about whether to go with the stock
rubber or the poly 3SX mounts. I was leaning toward the rubber because I
had heard that the poly mounts would transmit more vibration from the motor at
idle. My experience here has shown this vibration to be noticeable, but
negligible.
All in all, I'd recommend the 3SX polyurethane mounts...I think
they're a fair price for a solid (no pun intended) product.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 07:28:54 -0700
From: Steve Hennigar <
garpike@chartermi.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 1992 R/T Automatic Transmission problem
My 1992 Stealth R/T has an automatic transmission, locked in 2nd gear
(fail safe mode, according to the owner's manual) and is presently at
the transmission shop. Transmission shop owner feels the transmission
is mechanically okay. Apparently the solenoids test ok, there is
electricity to the places where there should be, fluid level is okay and
fluid isn't bad, etc. His problem is that he cannot hook up his
diagnostic equipment to the car because he doesn't have the right
software (or something along that line).
I'm absolutely not a car mechanic but any help that I can relate to the
transmission guy, who IS a mechanic would be sincerely appreciated.
I'm in the process of trying to sell this car, (to help pay for the TT I
just purchased) and naturally with the weather beginning to finally get
nice in Michigan, this transmission problem had to pop up.
Can anybody shed some light on this subject?
Steve Hennigar, 92 Stealth R/T, 92 Stealth R/T, TT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 05:24:06 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Data logger for Second Gen (SAFC-II?)
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
>
-------snip----------- To get around the these deficiencies, I suggest
>
that you look into getting the new Apexi S-AFC-II. It has a some sort of
indicator for engine knock. I have not read any test reports on it. Has
anyone tried it? Does it show anything?
-
----------------------------->
I'll let you know in a day or two. I bought one yesterday for my '91
VR-4 from GTPro (sending it overnight) and it's being installed later today.
(Oh..., I'm SO out of my league here!) ;-) I'm just hoping that my
shop guy has a clue where everything is so he can hook it up for me, since I
certainly don't know where *anything* is. Here's the page I used to read
up on it:
http://www.forperformance.com/safcii.html
According to the write-up, "The new Super AFC-II has a new knock sensor function
which alerts the driver. This ensures that the engine is tuned to
perfection at every stage. This function only works on vehicles that have
an engine knock sensor." This unit has only been out for a month or so,
but Damon and Aaron from GTPro were very helpful in explaining the differences
between the old S-AFC and the S-AFC-II (thanks guys!).
The new unit is 5"W x 2"H x .75"D, and comes in two flavors - a blue screen
display like the old unit and a new blackface display with white readout, called
the 'limited edition', which I bought. Price was
(surprisingly) only a
few dollars more than the old S-AFC. In a nutshell, the old unit had 8
definable air/fuel settings in 500rpm increments, while this one has 12 settings
every 200rpm; it can save 2 data settings; it can set up warnings
(incl knock); same stuff as the old unit plus more functions - it's
password protected too so no one can mess with your settings. They
recommended the Split Second ARM-1 A/F meter, and I got that too, since it'll
help me to set up the S-AFC-II parameters if I can monitor lean<-->rich
conditions...
- --Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 13:09:30 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Paul Haney's new book about tires
For those into *tires* and how they affect the dynamics of a moving car,
you should check out the new book by Paul Haney. Paul writes well and is easy to
read. The book is available at SAE for $59.95 plus shipping. Or, for a limited
time, you can order a signed copy of the book direct from Paul himself at his
web site for only $55, which includes shipping.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 10:40:22 -0400
From: "Christopher Gerard" <
c.w.gerard@worldnet.att.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 1992 R/T Automatic Transmission problem
Steve,
I had exactly the same problem about a year ago on my 91 ES Automatic,
which is, if I'm not mistaken, the same engine/transmission as the 92 R/T. It
went to 2nd gear while I was on the highway (!) and stayed there. The problem
was the TCM--Transmission Control Module. There was no mechanical damage at all.
The TCM chip had to replaced--remanufactured was $335, I forget was the price
was brand new, but I'm sure it was astronomical. If you check out the 91
technical manual (STIM), you'll find some basic information on the chip (but no
servicing information).
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Hennigar" <
garpike@chartermi.net>
Sent:
Thursday, April 24, 2003 10:28 AM
> My 1992 Stealth R/T has an automatic transmission, locked in 2nd gear
> (fail safe mode, according to the owner's manual) and is presently at
> the transmission shop. Transmission shop owner feels the
transmission
> is mechanically okay. Apparently the solenoids test
ok, there is
> electricity to the places where there should be, fluid
level is okay
> and fluid isn't bad, etc. His problem is that he
cannot hook up his
> diagnostic equipment to the car because he doesn't
have the right
> software (or something along that line).
>
>
I'm absolutely not a car mechanic but any help that I can relate to
> the
transmission guy, who IS a mechanic would be sincerely
>
appreciated.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 10:04:37 -0500
From: <
altieris@tulsaconnect.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 1992 R/T Automatic Transmission problem
I am also having the same problem, I found a place in
Florida that will
test for free and has better prices for
rebuilts,
They are from $99.00 with 30 day warranty to $275.00 with
at 3 year
warranty-
its called auto and truck electronics- a search on yahoo
brings them up
as first or second spot.
On Thu, 24 Apr 2003 10:40:22 -0400
"Christopher Gerard" <
c.w.gerard@worldnet.att.net>
wrote:
>Steve,
>
>I had exactly the same problem about a
year ago on my 91 ES Automatic, which
>is, if I'm not mistaken, the same
engine/transmission as the 92 R/T. It went to 2nd gear while I was on the
highway (!) and stayed there. The problem was the TCM--Transmission Control
Module. There was no mechanical damage at all.
>
>The TCM chip had
to replaced--remanufactured was $335, I forget was the price was brand new, but
I'm sure it was astronomical. If you check out the 91 technical manual (STIM),
you'll find some basic information on the chip (but no servicing
information).
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 11:36:35 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Data logger for Second Gen (SAFC-II?)
IIRC the Split Second is much too coarse in its settings for someone with a
large fuel pump and/or large injectors and I think something like the Apex'i
unit or maybe some other fuel controllers had more precise settings. On my
friend's first gen VR-4 with big GTPro turbos, Supra fuel pump, 720cc injectors,
and some GTPro fuel rails the Split Second was VERY coarse down on the Low
setting (where you could set it at something like every 4% when it really needs
to be in increments of 1% change). Maybe this is a new Split Second model
though with more precision.
So sitting at idle you turn the low knob to -2 clicks and it dies but -1
click is too rich and floods the car. The clicks are too far apart.
Also, Lucius had some initial settings on his page for 380cc injectors and 15G
turbos which I used as a guideline. Then he had guidelines for 550cc
injectors and 15G turbos. The problem was that my friend has 720cc
injectors and 368-sized GTPro turbos so some guessing had to go on there.
I think we settled on -1 or -2 clicks at startup and then moved the Low knob to
+1 after a few minutes. Still, I think the consensus was that the Split
Second has too few clicks/increments on it but maybe I had it set wrong or maybe
there is a way to make it more precise.
- --Flash!
------------------------------
Finally ready to go to town on this kit:
FULL kit = $1590 (including rotors):
Two NEW 993 red calipers
Two PF
rotors
Two caliper bracket adaptors
Two front PF SS lines
Set of PF R4
race pads
Set of PF R4-S street pads
Two pints Motul RBF600
Hardware
Kit (Nuts & Bolts)
Options:
+Anodizing of the brackets +$30
- -Rotors -$250
- -Race
pads -$125
- -Streed pads -$118
- -PF SS like kit -$100 (-3AN adaptors for
existing PF SS lines ONLY)
+Extra R4 pads +$125 (with kit only)
+Extra R4S
pads +$118 (with kit only)
**Drilling is not recommended. Slotting is useful for high stress
environments, but will reduce pad life. Cryo is available, and will aid in
rotor life. These options will be made available to you at a discounted
price with kit order only.
I need at least -5- pre-paid orders to start this, after that I can sell
kits one at a time no probs. I hope my business reputation stands up to
inspection with the group here on the safety of your deposits.
Will bolt straight up to 2G TT cars, will bolt straight up to 1G TT
cars..however, 1G TT cars may require non-OEM wheels, Speedtoys cannot be
responsible for returns if they don't fit your wheels.
- ---
**Now offering replacement
Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Porsche/SAAB/Volvo parts!**
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 09:33:38 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: FS: Parts, Upgrades, Car Audio (cleaned out my garage)
Got a bunch of stuff I'd like to get rid of - you can see it all at the
following web page:
Quick list of stuff:
3000GT and Stealth Parts
3000GT/Stealth Coolant Overflow Tank Level Sensor
3000GT/Stealth Center
Console Coin Holder
Mitsubishi Locking Lug Nuts (8)
Mitsubishi Front
License Plate Bracket
Mitsubishi Rear Shock Upper Cover
Mitsubishi
3000GT 5-speed Shift Knob
Mitsubishi 6G72 Timing Belt Auto-Tensioner
3000GT/Stealth Rear Washer Fluid Tank
Mitsubishi 3000GT Interior
A-pillar Trim
Mitsubishi 3000GT Exhaust Gasket (2)
Stealth/3000GT
Throttle Body Assembly
Upgrade Parts
K&N Drop-in Air Filter for 3000GT/Stealth
GReddy 60mm Gauge Holder
(2 available)
52mm Gauge Pod
Whistler 1575 Radar Detector
GReddy
60mm PeakHold/Warning Water/Oil Temperature Gauge
DEI 4-Button Alarm
Transmitter
Car Audio Stuff
MTX RT-X02 Active 3-way Crossover
Alpine 6-Disc CD Changer
Alpine
3-Disc In Dash Radio/Tape/CD Player
Boston Acoustics 6 1/2" Speaker Set
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 17:21:27 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Data logger for Second Gen (SAFC-II?)
If the ARC2/SplitSecond controller can really handle 360 to 720 cc/min
injectors and we can guess that 540 is in the middle of a linear adjustment
range, then the indicated +/- 20% on the face of the controller must really mean
+/- about 33%. This would mean 3.3% change per click rather than 2%. Worse than
you suggest, Flash.
Fortunately, there is a ready solution for those owners using a
high-quality adjustable FPR. A few psi change in fuel pressure can adjust the
"table" up or down a little to get to those "middle" values, if you get what I
mean.
Example:
FPR is set at 43 psi base. 720 injectors are installed. Every click on the
ARC2 unit changes injector flow by 3.3% of 720 cc/min or 23.76 cc/min. So
starting at zero and clicking up 2 clicks we would get 720, 743.76, 767.52
cc/min.
Now decrease FP to 42 psi. The fuel flow from the 720 injector decreases by
SQRT(42/43), or 1.17%, to 711.6 cc/min. Now each click on the ARC2 is worth 3.3%
of 712 or 23.5 cc/min. Using the same knob as before and starting at zero, 2
clicks would yield 712, 735.5, and 759 cc/min. So, if 743 (1 click up) was too
high before, just reduce FP by 1 psi and 1 click would now yield 736. You get
the idea.
Of course, this isn't really what happens when we adjust the ARC2 knobs.
Each knob changes the airflow signal a little differently. Look at the SS
explanation on their page below.
The Low knob functions like a straight DC shift of the airflow "curve". But
the Mid and High work a bit differently, with the Mid increasing the middle part
of the airflow range, and the High increasing the upper part of the airflow
range.
But the point about using an adj. FPR remains the same. It can give you
that fine tuning you want without adding yet another electronic airflow signal
controller (usually based on RPM rather than flow) to the car. The same is true
for those owners using Mike Licht's GM Translator with a reported 5% increment
for each "click".
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 18:16:59 +0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject:
Team3S: monitoring knock
So has anyone tried this on our cars?
Is it really that hard to convert the knock sensor output to a signal that
can be monitored by LabJack or similar?
------------------------------
I recently got an extra ECU from a 95 VR-4 and it is my intention to put
together a Palm application (Similar to Pocket Logger) that works for the
hybrid. Someone on the 3SI board has a cable available. I have all
the SAE specs for the ODBI/II messages, so I should be able to figure this one
out. I just need some time to work on this project. I am hopping that by
Aug I will have something to offer to you guys.
If anybody else is working on this and would like to share your ideas let
me know.
Dan Labonte (longing for logging)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 10:44:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Supra Rotors
> Hi Philip & all,
>
> Philip, your answers are
below.
>
> Geoff, Since you will have to do some machining to
make a bracket, there isn't much more work to make two cuts on the Supra rotor
which is directionally cooled and larger dia than stock and allows full use of
the Big Red pad. Repeat FULL use of the BR pad.
>
>
BTW The Big Reds were designed for a 32mm thick rotor....ours and
the Supra are only 30 mm. Its the heat dissipation issue
again. I'm still trying to locate a used Porsche rotor to get dimensions
to machine a hat to fit my TT. The Porsche 996 Turbo has a 34 mm thick rotor
which will fit the Big red caliper.
>
> BTU My AP rotors are
only 32mmx328mm. Perhaps all AP systems are not the same?
>
>
I see no reason to mess with the rear brakes. My 93 has stock 94 rear with
Breeds in front. My 91 has stock 91 rears and Pas in front. Let's
get back inside the box and face the real issuer front brakes are not
adequate. Spend $$$$ and solve that difficulty first.
>
> [snip]
>
pvg1@daimlerchrysler.com
wrote:
>
> > Hi John,
> >
> > I am researching
front rotor upgrades for our cars and I wanted to ask you about the Supra
rotors. I heard those rotors are relatively inexpensive too.
>
>
--->I updated the price from 1999 [was $80List & $58
> my cost] and
currently is
> $115List & $75 my cost.
>
>
> >
What did it take to adapt them to our cars?
>
> -->Two cuts see
attached pic 'Supra-in28c' or go here
>
http://www.geocities.com/jczoom_619/p-web/pages/Supra-in28c.html>
The inside cut allows the rotor to fit our hub. Enlarging the hole allows the
wheel centric thru. The cuts are easy to figure out once you hold the
Supra and our rotor side by side and measure the hub. BTW 1st and 2nd gen
rotors are the same dimensions inside.
>
> > Do they have the
same offset that the stock rotors do?
>
> ---> NO. They
fit closer to the engine thus allow more space from the wheel spokes. And
a tiny bit more away from the weld metal inside the rim. You must remove
the dust shields. You CANNOT use 1st gen Stealth rims or 1st gen VR4(maybe
the VR4 chrome ones). The 97-99 SL chrome 17" rims work okay.
>
> > Or did you have to machine a new bracket for the Big Reds?
>
> ---> Well, you should. All I did was use some 'professional'
spacers to move the bracket 4mm higher and 4mm closer. But I
designed my original bracket so the highest point of the pad just touches the
top edge of the stock rotor.
>
> >
> >
> >
Philip
> >
> > >I customized the Supra rotors to fit my
TT. The Supra rotors are only 30mm (like the stock 2nd gen), but they are
directionally cooled and are larger diameter(322mm vs stock 313mm) and allow the
whole Porsche pad to contact the rotor surface.
>
> --
>
JCZoooM 93 TT
12.46@109Mph
Now with Porsche
> brakes & Supra rotors
> Email--->
JCZooM@iname.com>
http://www.geocities.com/jczoom_619
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 10:41:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andrew Wert <
mrstealth13@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 60k tuneup kit
Awhile ago I came across a kit on the internet for 60k
mile
tuneup. The kit included the: timing belt, idler
pulley, tensioner
pulley, water pump. However there
are 3 stages to the package, Silver,
Gold and
Platinum. The silver included the parts I listed
above, but
the gold included the oil pump, and the
platinum package included spark plugs
and spark wires.
I have not been able to find this website since,
does
anyone know what I am talking about. I have visited
the GZP
site but that 60k service kit doesn't include
the oil pump, which I
need. thanx
Andrew
------------------------------
Hey Phil,
That looks like a neat little box. I do a lot of LabVIEW programming
so I might pick one up (LabVIEW DAQ cards cost a fortune) Let me know if there
are any PC apps you would be interested in. I also have the compiler to
generate standalone .exes for LabView.
Dan Labonte
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 14:24:16 -0400
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 60k
tuneup kit
It may not be listed on his site, but give them a call. Hans has prices and
parts lists for all 3 levels of service. The differences are a lot more then
just the oil pump and spark plugs/wires.
Omar
92 r/t
- -----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Wert
Sent: Thursday, April
24, 2003 1:42 PM
Awhile ago I came across a kit on the internet for 60k
mile
tuneup. The kit included the: timing belt, idler
pulley, tensioner
pulley, water pump. However there
are 3 stages to the package, Silver,
Gold and
Platinum. The silver included the parts I listed
above, but
the gold included the oil pump, and the
platinum package included spark plugs
and spark wires.
I have not been able to find this website since,
does
anyone know what I am talking about. I have visited
the GZP
site but that 60k service kit doesn't include
the oil pump, which I
need. thanx
Andrew
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 19:47:13 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Data logger for Second Gen (SAFC-II?)
> I recently got an extra ECU from a 95 VR-4 and
> it is my
intention to put together a Palm
> application (Similar to Pocket Logger)
that
> works for the hybrid. Someone on the 3SI board
> has a
cable available. I have all the SAE specs
> for the ODBI/II
messages, so I should be able to
> figure this one out.
Good luck. Others have tried for years, but the problem is that the
signals
don't appear to be either OBD-I or SAE OBD-II. The only way
would seem to be
to acquire a MUT-II scan tool and reverse engineer the
signals from scratch.
No idea why Mitsubishi did that, but they did. :-(
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
If that is the case then the AEM is cheaper then the MUT-II and would be a
better solution.
Dan Labonte
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 16:15:27 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Data logger for Second Gen (SAFC-II?)
My question is where can you buy an MUT-II for 2 grand?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 16:28:27 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Scan Tools
Speaking of MUT-II, does anyone know where I could buy (or IF I
could
buy) a scan tool that resets the SRS light? Mine set a code after
installing indiglo gauges, and the key trick doesn't work. I'm reluctant
to take it to the dealer to get it reset because, in short, I don't trust any
dealers in my area.
Thanks.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 21:40:41 +0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Data logger for Second Gen
------------------------------
Jim,
What you are saying works and I would guess you could get the knock into
LabJack if it is fast enough. I was interested in a solution that would
plug into the OBDII connector that I could run into a Palm device so I don't
need to keep a laptop in my car for logging.
The reverse engineering is for the codes that come out of the ECU on the
OBDII port for the 94-95 models. Apparently, some of the codes that are
coming out of the 94-95 models do not conform to the SAE ODBI or OBDII standard
as I am told. That is what I want to confirm, or is it a mixture of the
two standard. If Mitsu made up there own codes then it will most likely be
simpler and less time consuming to do one of the
follow:
Replace the stock ECU with 1st gen or AEM (Why not use a 96 or new ECU?) or
Do what Phillip did with LabJack or some other similar data acquisition
device.
Dan Labonte
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003 00:34:39 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Data logger for Second Gen (SAFC-II?)
You must become an authorized Mitsu dealer to get one.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Starkey, Jr., Joseph
Sent:
Thursday, April 24, 2003 10:15 PM
My question is where can you buy an MUT-II for 2 grand?
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003 00:34:29 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Scan Tools
If it is not resettable then you have a problem with the SRS that always
sets a code.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Starkey, Jr., Joseph
Sent:
Thursday, April 24, 2003 10:28 PM
Speaking of MUT-II, does anyone know where I could buy (or IF I
could
buy) a scan tool that resets the SRS light? Mine set a code after
installing indiglo gauges, and the key trick doesn't work. I'm reluctant
to take it to the dealer to get it reset because, in short, I don't trust any
dealers in my area.
Thanks.
------------------------------
What a fantastic resource this site is!!
Can someone please advise me
how to remove the plastic, (Fiberglass?), trim that runs along the bottom side
of the car from the back rear of the front wheel arch to the front of the rear
wheel arch? (At the Base of the doors.)
I have cracks on mine which I would like to repair myself as the
panelbeaters cost is, as we say, "Out To Lunch." The vehicle is "Straight" so
not a stress fracture. The only thing that I can think of is that someone in the
past has tried to "Jack" up the car from these points.
I would like to remove them and repair with Fiberglass matting and Resin? I
am open to other repair ideas also but would like to know how to remove them
safely before attempting to do so.
Cheers....HOF.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 22:47:39 +0000
From:
nouveau3@attbi.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Bodywork
You can find detailed instructions on Jeff's site
www.stealth316.com> What a fantastic
resource this site is!!
> Can someone please advise me how to remove the
plastic, (Fiberglass?),
> trim that runs along the bottom side of the car
from the back rear of
> the front wheel arch to the front of the rear
wheel arch? (At the Base
> of the doors.)
>
> I have cracks
on mine which I would like to repair myself as the
> panelbeaters cost
is, as we say, "Out To Lunch." The vehicle is
> "Straight" so not a
stress fracture. The only thing that I can think
> of is that someone in
the past has tried to "Jack" up the car from
> these points.
>
> I would like to remove them and repair with Fiberglass matting and
> Resin? I am open to other repair ideas also but would like to know how
> to remove them safely before attempting to do so.
>
>
Cheers....HOF.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003 00:40:26 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Data logger for Second Gen (SAFC-II?)
The Apexi S-AFC II has a high resistance analouge input. The only what it
then shows is something like peaks per second. It must be calibrated by running
the engine up to 3000 rpm and then it recognizes some frequency. Nothing that
one can tell to be accurate ! People with datalogger and S-AFC II do not report
a good comparable signal output. I haven't installed one yet but in fact it has
no filtering device so it is a simple voltmeter that counts peaks per second or
so.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Forrest
Sent: Thursday,
April 24, 2003 2:24 PM
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
>
-------snip----------- To get around the these deficiencies, I suggest
That
you look into getting the new Apexi S-AFC-II. It has a some sort of indicator
for engine knock. I have not read any test reports on it. Has anyone tried
it? Does it show anything?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 22:52:00 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Data logger for Second Gen
> Replace the stock ECU with 1st gen or AEM (Why
> not use a 96 or
new ECU?)
Because if you are replacing the ECU, then you might as well not downgrade
by
getting OBD-2. The OBD-2 ECUs set a check engine light for just
about any
little thing, where the OBD-1 ECUs are fairly forgiving.
There's no
performance difference either way. If you want to log the
"knock sum" then
you have to go with an OBD-1 ECU since the OBD-2 ECUs don't
report it.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 16:17:53 -0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Bodywork
Jeff Lucius' site is probably the correct answer --- more specifically
Jim Berry
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 22:02:54 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Data logger for Second Gen
At 06:52 PM 4/24/2003,
mjannusch@attbi.com wrote:
>If you
want to log the "knock sum" then
>you have to go with an OBD-1 ECU since
the OBD-2 ECUs don't report it.
In fact there are people out there who are trying to adapt (or maybe
already successfully adapted) the '93 ECU, which seems to be the best of
both worlds. It apparently reads the cam and crank signals the same way as
the 2nd gen ECU's and also talks to Palm Pilots and tells the "knock
sum".
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2003 08:38:13 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Scan Tools
I know that. It's resettable, but only with the scan tool, not with
the key trick--which is why I'd like to get my hands on a scan tool that resets
SRS fault codes.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl
[mailto:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2003 6:34 PM
If it is not resettable then you have a problem with the SRS that always
sets a code.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Starkey, Jr., Joseph
Sent:
Thursday, April 24, 2003 10:28 PM
Speaking of MUT-II, does anyone know where I could buy (or IF I
could
buy) a scan tool that resets the SRS light? Mine set a code after
installing indiglo gauges, and the key trick doesn't work. I'm reluctant
to take it to the dealer to get it reset because, in short, I don't trust any
dealers in my area.
Thanks.
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#138
***************************************