Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, April 21
2003 Volume 02 : Number 135
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 15:19:27 -0400
From: "Steven Chen" <
fourchens@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Fw: Team3S: I've got a question
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven Chen" <
fourchens@earthlink.net>
Sent:
Sunday, April 20, 2003 11:23 AM
> I just got the 2 volume set
service manual ($A113.05) from Rockville
> Mitsubishi
(mitsupartsdirect.com). They are really helpful (I am a
> new owner
also). I can't scan & email but I can fax the following 1.
> Fusible link/fuse locations 2. Inspection terminal
locations
> 3. Relay locations
> 4. Sensor
locations
> 5. Control unit locations
> 6. Overall
configuration diagrams
> 7. Active aero circuit diag
> 8.
Cruise control circuit diag
> 9. Electronic suspension diag.
>
I don't see anything re: four wheel steering except possibly the G &
>
Steering wheel angle speed sensors. Is your car manual or
automatic
> (different diagrams). Let me know.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 16:03:55 -0500
From: "Carole Mohror" <
J_cmo@surfbest.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Factory alarm system problem
I have a problem with my alarm system. It has a mind of its own! I have a
1991 3000GT SL, and the alarm goes off about 10 minutes after I lock it, or it
might wait 2 1/2 hours after I lock it! I have tried to lock it every which way
possible, to see if it would help, but it didn't. I had my mechanic try to
disconnect it- he thought he succeeded by taking out the horn relay switch. That
didn't work either. I just want the alarm system disconnected- does anybody know
how to do that? I don't need one anyway. It does get really annoying when people
at work come tell you that your car alarm is going off every day! Thanks for
your help. Carole
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 16:22:53 -0700
From: "ranzenbach" <
ranzenbach@sbcglobal.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Unable to shift car into gear...
For those that don't remember, I had a situation where I could not shift
the car into gear with the engine running. Attempts would cause the car to
attempt to move forward (an inch or so) but it would never make it into
gear. If I shifted into gear with the engine off and then depressed the
clutch and attempted to start the engine, the car would lurch forward.
I finally got it fixed...
It seems that the clutch plate separated (really messing up the
flywheel) I was also leaking oil from the master seal which didn't help
things much. $1,300.00 for the cure.
Thanks to all who attempted to diagnose the problem. Also a big thanks to
Jeff Lucius for his pages on the clutch and AWD. They helped me and the
tranny shop figure this one out. -ear
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 19:47:18 -0400
From: "Richard Michael Tyska"
<
rtyska@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S:
3000GT flooding problem, please help me...
Team3S,
Have a 1993 Mitsubishi 3000GT(non-turbo)
automatic. When I drive the car for a period of time and the engine warms
up, when I shut it off it floods and will not start. When it is running it
runs great. Let it get warm and sit about 10 minutes the engine turns over
but will not start until I wait about half an hour and then it starts. I
smell much gas and there is a hot blue spark coming from the plugs which leads
me to believe that it is getting flooded. I smelt gas in the oil which
confirms that the car is getting to much gas so I change the oil. Has
anyone had this flooding problem and if so what was the cause? Does anyone
have any suggestions of what may be the flooding problem? Thank you
Team3S. This is my first email since I joined about 2 weeks ago. If
my message is not in the proper form please let me know.
Regards,
Richard Tyska
------------------------------
While driving I saw another 3000GT today painted in a navy bluish
color. It
looks amazing, and I've only seen it on a few, 2 or 3,
3000GTs. Can anyone
please tell me the official name for the color and the
paint code if possible.
Thank you
- -mike
97 SL
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 23:41:08 -0400
From: "Steven Chen" <
fourchens@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Fw: Team3S: Factory alarm system problem
According to my service manual, there is a horn relay and a separate theft
alarm horn relay. The theft alarm horn relay is located at the junction
block (engine compartment). There is also a fuse (#14, 10A) in the
junction block for the theft alarm horn & theft alarm horn relay. The
anti-theft alarm is connected to the horns, lights, doors, door locks,
hatchback, hood and starter. Each of these has its own switch and/or
relay. Question for you: do your lights activate/flash as part of the alarm
going off or is it just the horn(s)? A '91 is getting a little old and may
be a sign that the anti-theft alarm system needs to be assessed by your
dealer/someone with a MUT or voltmeter.
As a side note, I have owned 2 vehicles ( 1 fairly old, 1 fairly new) that
had their horns just start sounding at arbitrary times (usually in the middle of
the night). The old car needed a new relay and horn (corrosion
problems). The newer truck had the anchors for the contacts become loose
and just needed tightening/adjustment. Neither vehicle was equipped with
anti-theft.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Carole Mohror" <
J_cmo@surfbest.net>
Sent: Sunday,
April 20, 2003 5:03 PM
> I have a problem with my alarm system. It has a mind of its own! I
> have a 1991 3000GT SL, and the alarm goes off about 10 minutes...
> taking out the horn relay switch. That didn't work either. I
just
> want the alarm system disconnected... I don't need one
anyway.
> Thanks for your help.
------------------------------
very first question to ask is "did the previous owner have the 120K
maintenance performed?"
If not, with a car with otherwise unknown maintenance history, you should
expect to go ahead and have the timing belt, tensioner, and water pump replaced
(about $1K), sooner rather than later.
I've had to replace the clutch on two of our three VR4's at 70K miles and
100K miles, but one is good to go at 120K+ miles.
Has your car had the transfer case recall performed? You could get
anything from a free transfer case, to new seals in your old case, to just a
clean bill of health from the Mitsu dealership.
Chuck Willis
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob G
[mailto:Rguirlinger@cfl.rr.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2003 9:33 PM
Hello Everyone!
I'm a new member of the forum as well as a new owner of a 92 3000gt vr4.
The car has a lot of miles; 120,000, but the price was right.
The car has a clean CarFax report, paint is pristine, never wrecked or
repainted. No modifications. Engine runs smooth, turbos are working
fine. No leaking, no smoking, no oil consumption between changes. Even the
"active aero" and the selectable exhaust tone still work. Whoever owned
this car before me (one owner) apparently took very good care of it.
Interior is nice as well.
Question is, what's in store for me? I have no idea of the actual
maintenance history of the car. Will I be looking at turbo
replacement/rebuilding soon? What other types of things should I be paying
attention to?
Great car...
Thanks in advance,
Bob Guirlinger
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 10:13:45 -0500
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Alternator repair
Has anyone repaired their alternator, according to the terms outlined in
the service manual? CAPS shows replacement parts available. Mine was
only charging 2.5 volts so I tore it down to try to diagnose it.
Everything checks out except I cannot figure out how to check the rectifiers and
the regulator. The book is not very detailed when it comes to this.
CAPS shows these parts as being replaceable, does anyone know how much I should
spend? I haven't called my dealer but autozone.com and carparts.com both show
replacements.....not sure these are what I need. A REBUILT alternator from
autozone is $240 I thought I'd try to fix mine before I just jumped and
bought a new one....can't be that hard. All the major components inside
check out except for the above!!
- -Jeff Crabtree
St. Louis, MO
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 10:10:35 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Factory alarm system problem
Carole,
Check the hood switch - it's near the passenger's side
headlight, right beside the fuse box. It should have a rubber boot on it
and it's a plunger-type switch. Sometimes this gets bent downward so that
the hood doesn't hold it down far enough. The bracket is pretty thin
metal, so just bend the whole thing upward 1/4" or so so that the plunger makes
good contact with the hood. That's been the problem on at least 2 3/Ss I
know of with your symptoms.
> I have a problem with my alarm system. It has a mind of its
>
own! I have a 1991 3000GT SL, and the alarm goes off about
> 10 minutes
after I lock it, or it might wait 2 1/2 hours
> after I lock it! I have
tried to lock it every
> which way possible, to see if it would help, but
it didn't.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 17:30:40 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt D" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Unable to shift car into gear...
A disintegrated clutch friction plate will often end up at extremes.
If all material is thrown free, you may get a little grinding, maybe not
depending on clutch geometry and release travel. You are permanently
Disengaged.
If material is partially thrown, it may get trapped
between flywheel and pressure plate, without enough travel to release it. Now
you are permanently Engaged.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: ranzenbach
[mailto:ranzenbach@sbcglobal.net]
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2003 4:23 PM
For those that don't remember, I had a situation where I could not shift
the car into gear with the engine running. Attempts would cause the car to
attempt to move forward (an inch or so) but it would never make it into
gear. If I shifted into gear with the engine off and then depressed the
clutch and attempted to start the engine, the car would lurch forward.
I finally got it fixed...
It seems that the clutch plate separated (really messing up
the
flywheel) I was also leaking oil from the master seal which didn't
help things much. $1,300.00 for the cure.
Thanks to all who attempted to diagnose the problem. Also a big thanks to
Jeff Lucius for his pages on the clutch and AWD. They helped me and the
tranny shop figure this one out. -ear
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#135
***************************************