- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
> Bob,
> I'm going to get GC's for my 93 VR4.
> I'll check this issue at install.
> I thought the JIC's had top camber adjustment? So street adj would be
> with lower bolts to get tire clearance, and as little top camber as required. Then at track use all top adj , which will not affect tire clearance?
> Kurt
- --------------------------------->

The lower bolt replacements were only a quick fix to get the JIC adjustment ring to clear the tires. My tires were only 1/5" wider than stock and they touched the tire, so they just don't SAY that you need spacers or a different offset, but you DO need one or the other for them to fit and still be adjustable (at least on 1st gen, anyway). When the *proper* bolts are in, the bolts need never be touched - all camber adjustments are done from the camber plate; shock rate is adjusted using a small hex key from above as well. Preloading and ride height are adjusted from below, using a wrench (provided). That's the way the JICs *will* work IF you use spacers.

I think that the GC coilovers are probably adequate, based on how good my Stealth NT felt, but you might want to explore tougher springs other than the Eibachs they come with. The biggest issue is not with the GCs, but that you are stuck with stock KYB struts-- they just don't cut it for the track (for a real track car). But I still couldn't believe how well the Stealth performed on street turns. You'll like them a lot, but you won't love them. And don't forget that to be safe, you'll need the Eibach helper springs for the rears, too (+$100).

Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 17:51:47 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Road America track report

I was not quite sure how to interpret these two opposing statements?
***
1. The inner shocks often extend in the turns fully and become completely stiff as if there is no suspension out there, which is not good for traction or handling.

Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 20:21:13 -0400
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: Road America track report

"Solid flat" was a metaphor. Just harder springs by themselves do not stop
the body roll completely. There is still some body roll there, although it
was smaller than anything I have ever experienced, so it felt like the car
was not leaning at all. But I saw some of the pictures of my car taken by a
local professional photographer from inside the turn and my both inner or
at least the front inner wheel was almost hovering, which means that the
suspension was fully extended there.

At 05:51 PM 4/17/2003, Zobel, Kurt wrote:
>I was not quite sure how to interpret these two opposing statements?
>***
>1. The inner shocks often extend in the turns fully and become
>completely stiff as if there is no suspension out there, which is not
>good for traction or handling.
>
>2. It was much better on the track though. The car stayed solid flat
>all the time.
>***

I'm a new member of the forum as well as a new owner of a 92 3000gt vr4. The car has a lot of miles; 120,000, but the price was right.

The car has a clean CarFax report, paint is pristine, never wrecked or repainted. No modifications. Engine runs smooth, turbos are working fine. No leaking, no smoking, no oil consumption between changes. Even the "active aero" and the selectable exhaust tone still work. Whoever owned this car before me (one owner) apparently took very good care of it. Interior is nice as well.

Question is, what's in store for me? I have no idea of the actual maintenance history of the car. Will I be looking at turbo replacement/rebuilding soon? What other types of things should I be paying attention to?

So, I'm thinking to myself that if I manage to run an 11 second 1/4 mile this year then I'll get kicked off the track without a rollbar (at a minimum). If I had a rollbar and a firejacket maybe they'd let me slide. What options are there for 3/S cars for these things? In an ideal world, I'd want something that I could bolt in the car for weekend racing and then take back out for my regular street driving to work without tearing up the interior much. For racing I don't care if there's no rear interior panels or rear seats.

I know Autopower makes some sort of rollbar, but I'm curious what it looks like, and whether or not it would fit in my Spyder. It wouldn't be able to extend further back than the rear seats. Any ideas or suggestions? I don't think anyone has ever done this in a Spyder yet.

Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 20:28:19 -0400
From: "Steven Chen" <fourchens@earthlink.net>
Subject: Team3S: 1993 Mitsu 3000 GT VR4, 108,000 miles

I heard a "clunk" when my son pushed in the clutch while shifting fairly hard (accelerate to upper rpm's & quick clutch/shift). While in the process of changing the starter, I was able to rotate the propeller shaft @ the transmission end approximately 1/4 - 1/2 inch. My questions are: 1. What would cause a "clunking" when hard shifting? 2. What is the amount of free-play the propeller shaft is supposed to have? The service manual does not give a specification. 3. After changing the starter, what are the torque specifications for the 2 mounting bolts? Again no service manual spec.