Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, April 17
2003 Volume 02 : Number 132
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 11:52:17 -0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Addco Front Sway Bars
The rule of thumb is that stiffening up the front of the car will make the
car's handling shift towards understeer, while stiffening up the rear will make
it shift to oversteer. What's the right upgrade for you? It all
depends on how you want your car to handle. From the factory, most all
cars (ours included) will understeer fairly heavily. This is a safety
feature, as the average driver doesn't know how to deal with oversteer.
Upgrading the front sway bar will make your car understeer even MORE.
If this is what you want, then go for it. If you want to make your car's
handling more neutral, I'd recommend upgrading the rear bar first. This
will counteract the car's stock tendency to understeer. Try that out, and
see how you like it. If you want the understeer back, then you can add the
front sway bar or a front strut tower brace. If it's still understeering,
or you want it to oversteer more, then you can further stiffen the rear with a
rear strut brace.
I'm sure others will chime in on this one... :)
- - Brian
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Guy, Michael (CS)
[mailto:michael.guy@northropgrumman.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2003
11:38 AM
>
> New guy here
>
> I have read most of the
FAQ and forums concerning the anti-sway bars
> but I wanted some personal
opinions. I recently purchased the front
> bar for my 92 SOHC Stealth, but
wasn't quite sure how they performed. I
> have heard legend and rumor
that the stock front anti-sway bar is the best bar
> you can get for your
car, and based on the FAQ I know people have them, but I
> didn't read
any personal opinions on the bar.
>
> Mike Guy
> 92 SOHC
Stealth
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 13:00:42 -0600 (CST)
From: Chad and Carol Decker
<
carolnchad@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: What could go wrong?
My 1991 Stealth R/T TT AWD is in the shop right now getting front struts, a
lower control arm, wheel bearings, brake pads, and inner tierod boots put
on. I was just wondering if the person didn't know what they were doing
what some of the things are that could go wrong. Also, things to look for
when I pick the car up tomorrow...the good things and the bad. This is the
first time I have ever dealt with this shop and I am starting to get
nervous. Any suggestions would be helpful.
Thanks,
Carol
Decker
------------------------------
Mike,
That is also the same tire that I am using (installed by previous
owner). They seemed to work well on the track, although I don't have any
experience with any other tire on the track at this time. They made a lot
of squealing noise around the corners, which I am told is common.
After my last event I did find a section of tread that was damaged (only
about 5k street miles on tires I would estimate). The damaged section was
located in the center of the tire where the V-point of the tread pattern
is. A small section of tread had lifted up, about an inch in length.
Almost like a 'layer' of tread was pealing off. Not sure if it is a tire
issue or gust the way I was driving, or if I caught something.
I do plan on trying the Yokos when these where out.
Dan Labonte
- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael Gerhard
[mailto:gerhard1@llnl.gov]
Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2003 12:24 PM
At 10:13 AM 4/16/2003, you wrote:
> I'm in the market for new tires
too. My search thus far has led me to
> the Yokohama AVS
ES100. They seem to perform very well, and at a
> little over $100
each in 245/45/17, they're a great deal for a
> performance tire.
I've been running Firestone Firehawk SZ50-EP (245/45-ZR17s) for over a year
now and I'm staying with them. They are awesome. When I was shopping for
tires, I used Tirerack.com to compare various tires and the Firehawks
always came out on top, overall. They are almost unbeaten for traction (wet
or dry) and noise and tire wear (they have a rating of 340). I think the
Tirerack price is $160 or so and most places will price match with a small
fee for mounting. I got mine through Wheel Works and they price match
tirerack + $15 per tire (which is what Big O charges to mount Tirerack
tires).
- --------------------------------------------------------------
Michael
A. Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
------------------------------
Road America is a very cool track. It is fast and reasonably safe. There
are open areas or sand pits in strategic locations and nice and cushy tire walls
(which saved me once). There are professional safety crews patrolling the track
and flaggers in fireproof suits on every corner, who watch the cars and signal
if problems occur. If there is a problem with your car a crew will be there to
help you in a few seconds.
The event was very well organized. Not too many strict rules and plenty of
track time. The contingent was very serious. There were 120 cars and virtually
all of them were high-power beasts. Firebirds/Camaros galore, Corvettes, Mustang
Cobras, M3's (those were FAST), Porsches, etc. Even a Saturn and a Contour which
somehow got there were running very strong and were hard to keep up with.
============================
I finally met Rich Merritt. Yes, he is a real person :-). He does not look
like an old poop either. He is much taller than he seemed in one of the pictures
where I saw him sitting in his car. I asked how he fits in his VR-4 and he
replied that he goes not fit in the car, puts the car on. He is a real hardcore
driver out there on the track, trying to kill everything that moves, and usually
does.
He is very hyped up about our cars, and rightfully so. During our driver's
dinner he had about 4 glasses of Scotch and we had to listen to him telling us
about our ***AMAZING CARS***, LOL! The only weak point according to him is the
brakes. This is also one of my top priorities now after I fell flat on my face
with babying my brakes trying to keep them from overheating, not being able to
open it wide on straightaways, having to let people pass me due to that, and
still warping the rotors slightly by midday Sunday.
We met some new 3S people there. A few local guys were there. John from
Iowa, Rich's student, was on the waitlist and could not sign up because the
event was all sold out. He came there hoping to buy someone's track time if
their car breaks down. He was a little chicken to pay half the price for one day
that was offered to him by someone who quit after day one, but he had no excuses
not to buy Jack T's track time for $20 in the afternoon on Sunday.
Everyone had a great time there. Even Jack T, who ran only half a day
Saturday. He is just as great of a driver on the open track as he is on the drag
strip. He was not relaxing too much there. He brought an AEM EMS to the track to
map it right there. He managed to correctly diagnose a fuel pump problem that
was happening at 120 MPH. Not many people can race ahead of the pack at 120 MPH
while tuning a brand-new ECU and diagnosing bugs at the same time.
============================
I left my AEM EMS at home. I had a JIC suspension there to play with
instead, and it kept me busy most of the day Saturday.
I was fighting oversteer all day Saturday. I did not quite figure out my
new tires and new lowered setup with the JIC suspension and spun out the car in
the first session into a tire wall.
Normally that would have never happened. The car would have gone sideways
for a split second, I would have applied some gas and the car would have
straightened itself out, just like it did here:
But the oversteer was way too severe and I did not have much power
available in 3rd gear, so I could not save it. Amazing, but here was no damage
to the car other than a few paint chips on the front bumper, which was already
banged up anyway and needed some paint work prior to the event. Even after two
days I could not get that turn #5 right. I think I should have tried it slower
in 2nd gear instead.
After this episode I realized that maybe I needed to spend some time tuning
my new suspension. I had a negative 2 degree camber all around, JIC in the
mid-range front and rear, zero toe-in, and my tire pressure was 40/38 FR/RR. I
ended up doing a series of small iterations, after which I ended up with the JIC
on full stiff in the front, 3 clicks soft in the rear, tire pressures 38/32
(when cold), camber or 1.75/2.00 FR/RR, a little toe-out in the front simply due
to changing the camber, and I completely removed all the spring preload. Springs
are often installed on coilovers with some preload. The stock front coilovers
have a lot of preload. The rears have very little. I put only about 1/4" of
preload on my springs, but then I realized that with the rear spring rate of 564
lbs/in a 1/4" of preload is 141 lbs of force. The inner shocks often extend in
the turns fully and become completely stiff as if there is no suspension out
there, which is not good for traction or handling. After all these changes I
ended u p with a great balanced setup where the car was neutral under partial
steady throttle, with a minor understeer under hard acceleration and a minor
oversteer with closed throttle.
JIC seems like an okay suspension, but I am not convinced yet that it has a
good road racing or street potential. It is oversprung and underdamped. I did
some dyno tests, about which I will write separately, and they showed that its
front dampers are even softer than the stock "sport" setting. It felt terrible
driving through Chicago northern districts. The car was rocking back and forth
and did not want to stop. It was much better on the track though. The car stayed
solid flat all the time. That allowed me to go nuts smoking those tires through
the carousel and even toy with a light trail braking before some turns. Not that
it was faster, but I could do it if I wanted to. The JIC does its trick with
super stiff springs and does not rely on sway bars at all. It is night and day
in comparison to stock, but I think a softer setup with more damping would have
provided more traction.
============================
After I fixed all the steering problems I had a ball! I was able to keep up
with most and pass a few cars. I could make distance on almost anyone on the
carousel and the back straight after the carousel. However, virtually everyone
there was outbraking me.
I got Rich's friend Beluga, The Great White Whale, killed him on the back
straight after the carousel and turn #11. I loved that little high-speed kink
there. I was going at 100 mph there, squealing tires, scaring my passenger. I
was making 100 ft on him by the end of that straightaway. Even on the front
straightaway I was doing not too bad. I saw him in the rear view mirror power
oversteering coming out onto that straightaway. Maybe because of his rear end
was stepping out he was not making much distance on me there.
I had my car go 135 mph only once in the front straightaway and I was not
even trying too hard. I was trying to save the @#$% brakes, therefore I usually
went at half-throttle there and rarely exceeded 120 mph.
============================
I tested new tires too. Flash rented me his wheels with old 17" Yoko A-032
tires. The tires were worn but still good for about two track days. Those are
not street tires. They have a treadwear rating of 70 and are a little noisy on
the street. On the track they were good. They have some extra meat on the outer
edges to allow for extra wear in that area during track use. I expected them to
be a little more sticky, but they were still very good. They were a little
slippery and too quiet for the first lap, but then they warmed up and worked
very well almost to the end of the event. I had to deflate them a lot (see
oversteer troubleshooting above). They still worked well at that low pressure
with most of the wear still occurring in the middle. They were still not rolling
over too much. I noticed some thread peeling on three of them by mid Sunday. I
could not use them further because I had another off-track excursion and broke
one of the rims.
============================
I never could get turn #5 right. The same turn after which I spun out and
crashed into a tire wall. This time I went wide, past the rumble strips (oh,
they are hard!), past the little asphalted section, and with two wheels off into
the sand. That did not feel right. A few feet later I realized that I had a
flat. I pulled over to the side in a quiet spot and then a flatbed came, loaded
me, and took me to the pits.
In the pits I saw a few strange scuffmarks on the rims. I thought, well,
Flash won't get upset because now these old rims just looked a little shinier
than before. Then I noticed a lot more scuffmarks inside the rims, on the lower
control arm and on the brake caliper, which puzzled me more. Was that some rocks
that got stuck between the brake caliper and the rim? Nope, too many scuff marks
to be left by a few rocks. The rim was round and everything else seemed fine.
The outer lip was intact and the tire beads were seated as normal. There was
nothing except the scuffmarks that indicated a trouble. Then... I saw a crack!
Right near the weld seam going all the way around the rim where the cast hub
with spokes is welded to the aluminum rolled part of the rim. The spokes
separated from the rim! We turned the wheel over and found no nipple! It was
gone. But there was no nipple hole there either. WOW! The rim must have tuned
around the spokes! I gave the wheel a couple yanks and it came apart.
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~gphilip/Road_America03
Here is the kicker: the two-piece wheel fell apart while I was off-tracking
with my right side for several feet. During that time I heard several nasty
clunks. Then everything was normal on the straightaway, except in the next turn
I felt that the front tire was losing pressure. I stopped and only saw a flat. I
did not notice anything unusual. The rim put itself back together!!! It could
not have come off the car because the cast hub with spokes is larger than the
rim's ID. So it wobbled around the wheel well a little and then worked its way
back on the spokes somehow! That happened so fast that nobody, not even me,
noticed it. I will post a video of this incident, but I could tell you now that
it is not really spectacular. It looked almost like a regular two wheels off the
track kind of incident.
Now Flash wants me to get him a replacement rim. I hoped that he would be
happy that I broke it for him, found a "weak link" sort of. Well, he is now
worried about the other three rims but still wants them back nevertheless,
including a replacement for the fourth. If you could sell me one rim like that,
let me know. It is a 17" chrome 6-spoke 1997 or equivalent 3000GT SL wheel. It
could be ugly as hell, but must be reasonably round.
==========================
Then I mounted a set of my street 18" rims with Kumho 712 street tires that
I conveniently took with me. I was impressed with then for about four laps.
After they warmed up in 1/2 a lap they ran pretty well in comparison to the
special track Yokes. They had smaller slip angles, less yaw, they held direction
better, steering was faster, crisper and more precise. They had a little less
grip, but still very impressive. However the street Kumhos overheated after 4
laps and I could not push them hard anymore. They had at least 20K miles on them
and still about 1/2 the thread left!!! They were the same tires that I had at
Gingerman twice and with which I bought my car two years ago. They felt great on
the way home.
After driving my car at 130 MPH for two days straight on a stiff suspension
and negative 2 degree cambers, driving my daily driver, which I earlier thought
had a pretty sporty ride, now feels like bouncing on an old couch. Yuck!
I am now irreversibly hooked on open tracking. I am in one the of the last
stages of addiction, way past the point of no return. I look forward to seeing
you all at the track next time.
Philip
1995 R/T TT
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 15:12:26 -0500
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tire choices
I just got done putting on a set of Kuhmo Ecsta Supra 712's I had
always run Sumitomo HTR-Z's before, mainly because they were economical. I
had good luck with the Sumitomo's but after the recent tire threads I decided to
try the Kuhmo's. At $96/tire (plus shipping, I can now officially say that
I paid less for tires for the Stealth than I paid for tires for
my
Jeep.....CRAZY!! Eight years ago when I bought my Stealth I
couldn't get a
245/45/17 by any manufacturer for less than $150.....
- -Jeff Crabtree
- -----Original Message-----
From: Shannon Andrew Rowe
Sent:
Wednesday, April 16, 2003 11:52 AM
Ladies and Gentlemen,
I know a thread was posted not too long ago on the subject but I'm looking
for a quick answer and couldn't find one. I have just been graced with a flat
tire on one of my Goodyears and would like to know the feedback on any
economical performance tire.
I use the car basically as a daily driver and in all weather
conditions. I have never used anything but Goodyears, my only complaint is
that they seem to get damaged incredibly easy. Any suggestions would be
appreciated. I run 245/45/17's.
I would also be curious to know if anyone has suggestions on economical
after market rims.
Thanks in advance,
Shannon
92 Dodge Stealth TT
70 Dodge Charger RT 440
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 14:48:15 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: JICs, GCs (alert!?)
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Damon Rachell" <
DamonR@MEFAS.com>
A ha! I
apologize Bob, and to all of you. Now that I've got the JICs on (and the
TEIN Flex off) and had the car aligned, I see your problem to the
fullest!!! I have 275/40/17s up front, but even with the 5mm spacer, there
is quite negligible clearance. I was very wrong in my assumption
(improperly going from memory rather than empirically) that the TEINs and the
JICs are of the same diameter at the wheel height. Now, I'll have to get
an additional 5mm spacer to clear the spring perch safely!!! I'm not happy
at this point and I see completely where you're coming from. Once again, I
apologize, since we have installed the JICs on several cars with stock wheels,
but also stock tires. They ARE very close to the point of contact. Phil,
you've got the JICs on stock wheels. What size tires were you running? How
much clearance did you have? This whole predicament makes me have to completely
reassess my new wheel size and choice. Guess I'll have to do far more
research to get my 275/40 & 315/35 combo going!!! Damon
-
-------------------------
Apology unnecessary. What we need is your professional evaluation
about
*what* spacer we should plan on when we install JICs, and the tech
aspect of what that entails...
- ---Spacer size with stock tires?
-
---Spacer size with 255 tires?
- ---Spacer size with 275 tires?
- ---Where
do you get spacers?
- ---Will we need new wheel lugs?
- ---If yes, where
to buy them?
- ---Will 1st gen 3S's need new hubs, too?
Please, fill us in, Damon! And please, *everyone* who has JICs -
check the back of your tires for scoring!!!
TIA,
Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 15:03:26 -0700
From: "Damon Rachell" <
DamonR@MEFAS.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
JICs, GCs (alert!?)
With 275s and stock 1st gen stealth wheels, I have 3mm of clearance between
tire and spring perch. I had considerably more with the TEIN Flex.
This is with a 5mm spacer.
IMO, there should be no less than a full finger's width of space between
the tire and the perch/spring. So, I will be adding an additional 5mm
spacer (10mm total) to the hub. I already have the 10mm longer studs that
came with the 5mm spacer.
"-Spacer size with stock tires?"
Not necessary.
"-Spacer size with 255 tires?"
I would have to find a stock wheel to
mount my 255s on, so if someone else has 255s (you do, Bob, don't you?), it
seems that these do not fit on 1st Gen VR-4 wheels with the JICs. By how
much: TBD.
"-Spacer size with 275 tires?"
I would recommend no less than
10mm. These will require longer studs if using spacers (extensions to
follow). H&R sells longer studs and 5mm spacers, but not 10s. I
paid like $80 for the 5mm spacers and 10 longer studs. Swapping is not
hard at all. Next size up from 5 is 15mm and these do not need longer
studs as they are an extension rather than a spacer. The extension (forgot
the technical name) bolts to the existing lugs with newly supplied, low profile
nuts, and the extension has a hub centric center with 5 stock length studs on
it. Same as the more common 45mm extensions (too wide for my taste: bull
dog stance).
Now, there'll be a whole other argument about what size wheels with
different size tires work. Does someone want to start to formulate a
spreadsheet that has necessary equipment requirements to provide adequate
clearance?
Damon Rachell
1 rough ridding 92 R/T TT with the works!!! Wish I
lived in Japan.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 18:15:48 -0400
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Tire choices
Very, very nice tires indeed... and they look cool too :-)
Alex
'95 VR4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geddes, Brian J
Sent: Wednesday,
April 16, 2003 1:14 PM
I'm in the market for new tires too. My search thus far has led me to
the Yokohama AVS ES100. They seem to perform very well, and at a little
over $100 each in 245/45/17, they're a great deal for a performance tire.
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 22:25:25 +0000
From:
danielhyde@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: JICs, GCs (alert!?)
Unrelated to the JIC and CG fitment issue being discussed here, I needed to
go
with 5mm spacers on the front(97 VR4) due to a recent install of 9.5x18
RP01's
(45mm offset) and 265x35 Nitto's.
They handle 5mm, 15mm and 25mm. The 5mm set come with replacement
lugs which
I presume are supposed to be at least 5mm longer than stock but I
discovered
they were the same length as stock (14mm thread and 1.5").
The install
instruction provided say the minimum number of lug nut "turns"
required for a
14mm thread size is 7 1/2 and I managed ~ 8 1/4 turns.
If the install instruction are credible, I suppose the all is in spec and
secure but I don't like it so I'm in search of quality longer (~1 3/4") lug
bolts.
Dan
97 VR4
BTW - I have one extra (still in the box) set of the 5mm spacers if anyone
is
interested. I was stupid and ordered two sets (you know.. one for
the left
and one for the right ;-) $55 Shipped
------------------------------
I'll be putting on these Ventus 245/45/17 tires soon. Never heard of
them, but they have a 40k mile warranty and were only $80 per. They're "H"
rated, which may be a drawback for some, but I don't drive fast anyway.
Bob Guirlinger
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 19:52:53 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tire choices
Your cars performance will be reduced with H rated tires. They are
not built anywhere near as well as a V or Z rated tire (All 16, 17 and 18 came
with V or Z).
Ask anyone, I'll recommend the AVS ES100 for a economical HIGH PERFORMANCE
tire any day... I have them on my AWD Talon, and I love them, and my
girlfriend drives it daily. Perfect grip, great drivability, all season
they work out excellent too. They cost a tad more than the Kumho's but are
IMO, 10x better... Better lateral grip, better straight line grip, and
much more predictable at the limit. They also don't hop under a launch,
whereas the Kumho's will... (yes, breaking all 4 loose 225/50-16 on a AWD
Talon is fun in the dry)
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 19:55:08 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tire choices
Though good tires, I would put the ES100's by Yokohama up against them any
day, and they will be as good or better in all aspects. The Firestones are
good tires, nonetheless, however, at $60 more per tire than the Yokohama's, I
would save my money...
- -Cody
> I've been running Firestone Firehawk SZ50-EP (245/45-ZR17s) for over a
> year now and I'm staying with them. They are awesome. When I was
> shopping for tires, I used Tirerack.com to compare various tires and
> the Firehawks always came out on top, overall. They are almost
>
unbeaten for traction (wet or dry) and noise and tire wear (they have
> a
rating of 340). I think the Tirerack price is $160 or so and most
>
places will price match with a small fee for mounting. I got mine
>
through Wheel Works and they price match tirerack + $15 per tire
> (which
is what Big O charges to mount Tirerack tires).
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------
> Michael
A. Gerhard 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl
White
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 23:48:45 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Addco Front Sway Bars
And if you are interested in how an upgrade of the rear anti-sway bar only
performs then email me off-list. I'll compile some answers I dish out and
report back to the list. I think I'm still the only one with the rear bar
only but if there is someone else by now then let me know so we can compare
notes.
- --Flash!
1995-1/2 VR-4 with KYB front struts and rear anti-sway bar as
the only suspension upgrades
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geddes, Brian J
Sent: Wednesday,
April 16, 2003 14:52
The rule of thumb is that stiffening up the front of the car will make the
car's handling shift towards understeer, while stiffening up the rear will make
it shift to oversteer. What's the right upgrade for you? It all
depends on how you want your car to handle. From the factory, most all
cars (ours included) will understeer fairly heavily. This is a safety
feature, as the average driver doesn't know how to deal with oversteer.
Upgrading the front sway bar will make your car understeer even MORE.
If this is what you want, then go for it. If you want to make your car's
handling more neutral, I'd recommend upgrading the rear bar first. This
will counteract the car's stock tendency to understeer. Try that out, and
see how you like it. If you want the understeer back, then you can add the
front sway bar or a front strut tower brace. If it's still understeering,
or you want it to oversteer more, then you can further stiffen the rear with a
rear strut brace.
I'm sure others will chime in on this one... :)
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 23:45:06 -0400
From: Russ Williams <
3000gt@wildweaselweb.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Euro Style Gauge Faces
I just purchased a set of 3000GT SL Reverse Euro Glow Gauges and it
only came with the faces for the main console. I have a 3000GT Base
and was wondering if anyone knew where I could go to purchase either
the
entire set to cover the three smaller gauges in my center console
or
purchase the 3 smaller face plates separately. Thanks.
- -Russ Williams
'95 3000GT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 09:18:27 -0500
From: "David Phillips" <
dphillips@heeren.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Parking Lights not working
I recently purchased a 94 - 3000GT SL model. Overall the car is
in great
shape. I'm having problems with the parking, tail, and
front/rear marker
lights. When I rotate the headlight
switch to the first position, nothing
happens. I've check
all the fuses. The headlights, brake lights, and
turn signals all
work fine. Has anyone else had this problem?
I would
appreciate any suggestions.
David Phillips
Waterloo, IA
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 15:02:02 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: Team3S:
RE: 3S-Racers: JICs, GCs (alert!?)
Bob,
I'm going to get GC's for my 93 VR4.
I'll check this
issue at install.
I thought the JIC's had top camber adjustment? So street adj would be with
lower bolts to get tire clearance, and as little top camber as required. Then at
track use all top adj , which will not affect tire clearance?
Kurt
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#132
***************************************
