Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, April 15
2003 Volume 02 : Number 130
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 13:16:46 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Finish Wiring GN Coil Pack
That figures, I am always screwing every bodies set ups up in my
head....
now for a more tech oriented email...
I sorted out how to wire up the GN Coil pack and MSD but am trying to
figure out how to wire in the tach adaptors (with out destroying the harness
that makes the coils basically a plug and play solution) any suggestions.
Once I have a few pictures I will be doing a write up on the MSD + GN
ignition solution. It was rather simple when I wasn't cold, tired, and aching
every-where.
Russ F
CT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geddes, Brian J
[mailto:brian.j.geddes@intel.com]
Sent: Monday, April 14, 2003 1:10 PM
As far as I know, Jack's running an AEM. We exchanged emails a few
months back when he was first getting started on it...
- - Brian
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Furman, Russell
[mailto:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
> Sent: Monday, April 14, 2003 10:02
AM
>
> I thought Jack was running A Motec? Otherwise I would
have
> recommended a search on the AEM board.....
>
> The
issue with the Motec was a nightmare to get, for what they are
> asking
for the unit you should be able to just call and get the answer
> right
then and there.
>
> Russ F
> CT
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Geddes, Brian J
[mailto:brian.j.geddes@intel.com]
> Sent: Monday, April 14, 2003 12:26
PM
>
> Should anyone else every search for this problem in the
archives, it's
> a known bug as of the 0.94 strategy for the AEM
EMS. There is a very
> easy and simple fix posted on the AEM
board.
www.aempower.com/bbs>
> -
Brian
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 10:59:53 -0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Finish Wiring GN Coil Pack
I can't think of a way to hook in the tach adapters without hacking into
the wiring harness. :( MSD has a tech line...give 'em a call and see
if they have any ideas!
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 13:33:53 -0500
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: No, Really....I need 4 wheel steering help
Could someone PLEASE check under their car and tell me which hose goes
where on the lines that run back to the rear steering rack on a 1st gen TT...I
REALLY need help on this one. The shop manual is useless on this
issue.
- -Jeff Crabtree
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 15:18:53 -0700
From: "Richard L. Barron" <
radanc@cox.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Finish Wiring GN Coil Pack
Check with GT Pro. They hooked my MSD up
Rich
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 15:18:49 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: No, Really....I need 4 wheel steering help
Hi Jeff,
I took a look at CAPS (section 37-330) and the service
manual to try to see what you were talking about... it looks like there
are 4 lines that run front to rear under the car: 2 control lines and a pair of
feed/return lines. It also looks like the control lines run near the fuel
lines on the passenger's side of the car and the feed/return lines run on the
driver's side (although it's a little hard to tell the scale on the
diagram).
For the feed/return lines that run under the car front to rear, the oil
line on the driver's side is the Feed Line and the one on the passenger's side
is the Return Line.
Looking at p37B-9 in the CD version of the service manual, it looks like
the banjo bolt fitting at the pump connects to a hose that goes to the control
valve and both of the control lines (pair that runs near the fuel lines) also
connect to the control valve.
The underside of my car is not conveniently accessible right now, so
perhaps someone else will be able to look at an actual car :-)
- --Erik
Jeff wrote:
> Could someone PLEASE check under their car and tell me
which hose goes
> where on the lines that run back to the rear steering
rack on a 1st
> gen TT
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 16:07:41 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Defi Gauges Installed In Dash
In case you're not on the 3SRacers list....
And to reiterate: on the 2nd gen cars, you CAN replace the stock
center gauges without pulling the dash...
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 19:28:55 -0400
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Defi Gauges Installed In Dash
Very nice! How much for the package? All the Defi stuff I mean...
Alex.
'95 VR4
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 16:37:44 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Defi Gauges Installed In Dash
> Very nice! How much for the package? All the Defi stuff I
mean...
I lost count. :-) Too much.
I think the BF gauges (with sensors) ran about $200 each when purchased as
a package deal. The control unit (brain) was $100 and the display was
$300. Oh, and the HUD was a little over $200. Ack. Makes my head
hurt...
- --Erik
"don't remind me how big the money pit is"
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 16:56:04 -0700
From: "Trevor James" <
trevorlj@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Defi Gauges Installed In Dash
Are those 60mm or 52mm? I've got the whole 52mm 6 gauge Defi setup and I'm
just about to tackle installing the center gauges. Sensors are already
installed....
Trevor
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 17:02:10 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Defi Gauges Installed In Dash
Trevor wrote:
> Are those 60mm or 52mm? I've got the whole 52mm 6
gauge Defi setup and
> I'm just about to tackle installing the center
gauges. Sensors are
> already installed....
Hi Trevor,
Those are 60mm gauges. I'm pretty sure you could
make 52mm fit, but you might need some sort of bushing to go around the gauge
body so that it'd be a press-fit. Otherwise, you could fab some kind of
bracket to hold them in place. The 60s are definitely a tight fit.
- --Erik
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 18:02:32 -0700
From: "Richard L. Barron" <
radanc@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: Walbro
HP 341s for Sale
I forgot that I had 2 new unopened (fuel pumps)of these as well which I
would be willing to part for around $150. Again, the reason is my car is no more
:(.
Rich
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 19:54:02 -0700
From: "Richard L. Barron" <
radanc@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Camshafts for sale
Just found my original cams on my 60k stealth '92' that was totaled. I had
sourced and reground ones in them from Kelford. The originals are for sale if
anyone wants them. Most tuner shops require you to bring the car in and have
them ground leaving much down time on your car or if you buy regrinds they ask
for the originals as part of the deal. Would sell them for $230 which includes
shipping in the US. They are heavy if you have ever weighed 4 cams.
Rich
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 01:24:36 -0400
From: "Joseph Spainhour" <
spainhou@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Team3S: SVH install advice
Hello all,
I am finally getting around to finishing up my SVH install and was
wondering if anyone had any ideas on how to mark the vacuum lines on the plenum.
I do not want to spend the cash to get different colored lines and I am afraid
that marking them with paint will dry out the silicone. Does anyone have any
other ideas?
Joseph
93 VR-4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 01:46:26 -0500
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: SVH install advice
I did mine...it's fairly easy once you break it down into what goes where
and why. If you're terribly concerned with it all you could use a sharpie
marker to do the job. You'd have to come up with your own numbering
system. I simply photo enlarged the diagrams in the shop manual and color coded
the actual piece of paper that I was studying. This way I had a color
coded
guide to go by as I went. Let me know if you need some
help.
- -Jeff Crabtree
------------------------------
Hi everyone,
I have a question for those of you who have installed k&n mass flow
cone air filter on a 3000gt/stealth. When it comes to the part when you have to
separate the air box lid from the MAS housing, how do you achieve that. It seems
the nut and bolt head on the other end move together everytime I try. I've heard
suggestions of destroying the lid all together, but I'm look for any alternative
method. In regards to the wiper blades, how do you remove the original rear
wiper blade (blade and arm) in order to replace it because it seems like its
mostly metal. This is stuff is on '92 dodge stealth NT.
- --- Marven Lamarre
- --- '92 Dodge Stealth NT
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 11:14:16 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Air Filter and Wiper Blades
Yes, I know this problem with the cheap plastic airbox. The solution was
a) use WD40 to unseize the nut and b) use a good glue to stick the bolt
onto the plastic of the box. In one case good pliers that are able to hold
the square part of the bolt does the job too.
The rear wiper is hold by two small bolts.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 09:44:03 -0400
From: Joseph Spainhour <
spainhou@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: SVH install advice
The factory ones are color coded. blue, green, yellow, red, white, and
black. This aids in repair/installation as you do not have to trace
lines. I simply wanted to keep that system.
Joseph
93 VR-4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 10:05:56 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: SVH install advice
Joseph,
I agree it makes it easier later so my suggestion of
color-coded zip ties still stands as a good suggestion. And don't forget
about wrapping the handle of the dipstick. That has provided me much more
enjoyment than many other mods.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg
[mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2003 05:34
To:
'William J. Crabtree'; 'Joseph Spainhour'
I just removed an old line, measured it next to the new bulk line, cut it
to length with a tad extra just in case, put it in place of the old one,
repeat. This way you don't lose track of which one goes where. And
when I put it on I zip-tied it in place so it wouldn't fall off while moving
others around. Use different-colored zip-ties if you want or a Sharpie
with patterns (like one ring or two rings or diagonal lines or such). It
is just temporary until you get them all on as once installed they rarely need
removed.
Here is a good high-res picture from the HoseTechniques page. If that
link does not work then go to
www.hosetechniques.com and click on
"Catalog" then "Dodge Stealth Kit."
What sucks about the job is bending over the engine the whole time. I
had to take breaks so it took a week or two to complete. I only single
zip-tied my hoses since the zip tie ends were a bit wider than those in the Hose
Techniques pic. I kept the ends on top where they are accessible for
tightening instead of putting the backside of the zip-tie on top (like in the
HoseTechniques pic). It is personal preference. It was a ton easier
pulling up in the air with pliers to tighten the zip ties instead of pulling
into the engine so I did it that way for easier installation and not necessarily
looks).
Just dig in - you will see how to do it. Some cables are harder to do
than others, some require slitting the hose lengthwise and wrapping it around a
metal tube or cable. You'll get the hang of it.
NOTE, IMPORTANT NOTE, BEST MOD OF ALL WITH SVH ... Wrap the oil dipstick
handle with a piece of the small tubing of SVH. This is the best thing I
could have done with mine. No more burned fingers trying to grab the
dipstick. It takes some doing (lube the handle with soap or oil and
persuade the tube to slide on the handle - no zip tie needed).
- --Flash!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 09:29:30 -0600
From: "Curtis McConnell" <
Curtis.McConnell@pulte.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Air Filter and Wiper Blades
I just used some vise grips on the end of the bolt head, and quickly broker
the nut.
Hope that helps.
Curtis McConnell
1995 Vr-4 Spyder
- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl
[mailto:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2003 3:14 AM
Yes, I know this problem with the cheap plastic airbox. The solution was a)
use WD40 to unseize the nut and b) use a good glue to stick the bolt
onto
the plastic of the box. In one case good pliers that are able to hold the square
part of the bolt does the job too.
The rear wiper is hold by two small bolts.
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#130
***************************************
