Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, April 11
2003 Volume 02 : Number 127
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 04:53:21 -0400
From: "Arthurs Family" <
arthursfam@madbbs.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Chrysler Part Numbers
Greetings,
I have been creating a needed parts list from the Mitsu CAPS program for my
'92 Stealth RT/TT engine. To my surprise I was going through some Chrysler
parts books at the dealership I work at and find the part numbers for
engine items the same as the Mitsu numbers. Does this hold up throughout
for mechanical parts?
Is a Mitsubishi part # MD972005 water pump the same as a Chrysler #
MD972005 water pump?
Thank you,
Jon Arthurs,
Jamestown, NY
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 06:41:23 -0500
From: "Jim Fay" <
jfay@tssu.com>
Subject: Team3S: Bent
wheels
What is a reasonable spec for a true wheel. I have put a dial gage on
mine where the barrel bends over to the bead lip, and read .010 to .020 on all
four. Jim 91 RTTT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 07:03:27 -0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Bent wheels
That, my friend, is a perfect wheel. I will make it a note to go look
at our DSP9700 (road force machine) today and see what specs it claims are not
within limits for a wheel.
- -Cody
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Fay
> Sent:
Thursday, April 10, 2003 6:41 AM
>
> What is a reasonable spec for
a true wheel. I have put a dial gage on
> mine where the barrel
bends over to the bead lip, and read .010 to
> .020 on all four.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 09:15:26 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Chrysler Part Numbers
My experience is Yes, the part numbers are the exact same. Every part I
ever bought from the Chrysler dealer for my Stealth came with the Mitsu part
number, and they were the same.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Arthurs Family
[mailto:arthursfam@madbbs.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 10, 2003 4:53 AM
Greetings,
I have been creating a needed parts list from the Mitsu CAPS program for my
'92 Stealth RT/TT engine. To my surprise I was going through some Chrysler
parts books at the dealership I work at and find the part numbers for
engine items the same as the Mitsu numbers. Does this hold up throughout
for mechanical parts?
Is a Mitsubishi part # MD972005 water pump the same as a Chrysler #
MD972005 water pump?
Thank you,
Jon Arthurs,
Jamestown, NY
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 09:26:45 -0400
From: "Bob G" <
Rguirlinger@cfl.rr.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Chrysler Part Numbers
Didn't Chrysler use Mitsu engines and trannys in their cars and mini-vans
for years, starting in the early 80's?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 09:03:13 -0700
From: "James Mutton" <
james@playstream.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Chrysler Part Numbers
Yeah, I just did a timing belt on a 96 Plymouth Voyager. 3 Liter SOHC
V6, Engine code 6G72. :)
- -James
95 Green VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 12:09:10 -0400
From: Joseph Spainhour <
spainhou@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Chrysler Part Numbers
I have a Plymouth Laser , basically the same as a Mitsubishi Eclipse, and
the Chrysler dealer told me that it would be cheaper to get parts from a Mitsu
dealer. All Chrysler does is order it from Mitsu and tack on their price.
Joseph
93 VR-4
Starkey, Jr., Joseph wrote:
> My experience is Yes, the part numbers
are the exact same. Every part
> I ever bought from the Chrysler dealer
for my Stealth came with the
> Mitsu part number, and they were the
same.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 09:47:13 -0700
From: PacBell Connection <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Problem with the A/C
Oh, I wish I had separate buttons to control my AC. Unfortunately, I have a
large LCD screen that operates the whole AC-heater system on automatic. Although
there is an AC switch, according to the manual, it operates the AC from Auto, to
Economy, to Off. The AC and the speed of the blower are both automatic. Of
course, when it gets hot outside, the whole thing decides I like to be hot.
After about twenty minutes or so it decides its driver may be getting to the
boiling point and turns the AC on. After that the AC works fine.
Any help would be a blessing.
Andy (sweatin it out.....)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 12:00:03 -0500
From: "Victor Cotham" <
victor21@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: Idle
Problem
Hey, everyone. I'm new to the list and have been searching the
archives for some sort of answer to my problem, but I haven't been successful.
Hopefully, someone can help.
Bought a '94 Stealth NT about 6 months ago. In great shape but
looking on investing a little time and money to make it more interesting.
About a month after buying it, I started having a problem with the idle hunting.
Funny part is, it only does it when the car is coasting. Once you press in
the clutch, the idle will hunt between around 1000 to 2000 rpm. Once you
come to a stop, it idles fine, although maybe a little high. Everything
else as far as I can tell from a drivability standpoint is excellent. My
first thoughts were that the stepper motor might be having problems, but from
what I can tell, it's working fine. Mechanically, I'm out of ideas. Maybe
something electrical?
I'm by no means a mechanic. However, I am interested in attempting to
fix this problem on my own, or at least save some money by having and idea of
what's wrong before going to a mechanic.
Victor
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 13:17:08 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Problem with the A/C
With the full auto air, manipulating any of the buttons will convert them
to manual control. Therefore, if you want your blower to speed up, hit the
button to speed it up. That changes the controls for the blower from
automatic to manual. If you want to recirculate the air rather then
bringing in fresh air, hit that button, and it will not longer be automatically
controlled. If you want to control the AC by yourself, then turn the
temperature down as low as it will go until the blower goes on high, and then
adjust the controls to your liking.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 14:05:00 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Bent Wheels
One of my wheels had a slight wobble when I had them chromed.
$50 bucks
to straighten, $100 to chrome. Local tire shop sent them to
Someone they
have dealt with.
Refurbished (straightened) and re-chromed stockers can usually be found for
$200-$250 if you look awhile, or check magazine ads. Usually in the back misc.
ad pages.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jason
[mailto:Jason@garagedynamics.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 09, 2003 11:03
PM
Wow, I will make sure to be extra careful with my Buddy Clubs then. Sorry
to hear about everyone's bad luck.
Jason
------------------------------
I'm new too. Great site!
I'm having an idle problem as well, on my 92 3GT VR4. Car runs fine
as long as the AC is on. What ever mechanism that compensates for the pull
of the AC compressor works fine. The problem shows up when the compressor
cycles off or when the AC if off all together. Push in the clutch to turn
or stop and the engine will sometimes die. Starts right back up with no
problem.
I've looked around the archives as well and didn't see any posts that were
quite the same as what I am experiencing. Is there a throttle position sensor,
coolant temp sensor, or some other component that I should check?
Thanks!
Bob Guirlinger
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Victor Cotham" <
victor21@cox.net>
Sent: Thursday, April
10, 2003 1:00 PM
> Hey, everyone. I'm new to the list and have been searching
the
> archives for some sort of answer to my problem, but I
haven't
> been successful. Hopefully, someone can
help.
>
> Bought a '94 Stealth NT about 6 months ago. In great
shape but
> looking on investing a little time and money to make it more
> interesting. About a month after buying it, I started having a
> problem with the idle hunting. Funny part is, it only does it when the
> car is coasting. Once you press in the clutch, the idle
will
> hunt between around 1000 to 2000 rpm. Once
> you come
to a stop, it idles fine, although maybe a little high.
>
Everything else as far as I can tell from a drivability standpoint is
>
excellent. My first thoughts were that the stepper motor might be
>
having problems, but from what I can tell, it's working fine.
>
Mechanically, I'm out of ideas. Maybe something electrical?
>
> I'm
by no means a mechanic. However, I am interested in attempting to
>
fix this problem on my own, or at least save some money by having and
>
idea of what's wrong before going to a mechanic.
>
> Victor
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 14:14:15 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 2G (94-95) 17" Wheels WANTED
Does any one have for sale a set of the 5 spoke 17" wheels from the 94 and
early 95 model years for sale.
I have a set of BFG KDWS's I really don't want to throw away (they have
about 5K miles on them) but I also want to have the option of going to some huge
brakes down the line.
Don't care about the condition of the chrome (they are going o be stripped
and powder coated anyway) but need them to be round and true.....
Email me OFF LIST with your asking price, also pics of the wheels would be
a bonus
Russ F
CT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 14:25:07 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Idle Problem
If you slowly rev to 3-4000 at a stop, the idle comes down normally?
Could be sticky throttle linkage or butterfly. Maybe the coast valve, The
damper that the throttle hits to slow closing below 2000 rpm.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Victor Cotham
[mailto:victor21@cox.net]
Sent: Thursday, April 10, 2003 10:00 AM
Bought a '94 Stealth NT about 6 months ago. In great shape but
looking on investing a little time and money to make it more interesting.
About a month after buying it, I started having a problem with the idle hunting.
Funny part is, it only does it when the car is coasting. Once you press in
the clutch, the idle will hunt between around 1000 to 2000 rpm. Once you
come to a stop, it idles fine, although maybe a little high. Everything
else as far as I can tell from a drivability standpoint is excellent. My
first thoughts were that the stepper motor might be having problems, but from
what I can tell, it's working fine. Mechanically, I'm out of ideas. Maybe
something electrical?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 14:33:25 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Idle Problem
On the NT there should only be a start interlock switch for the clutch, so
it should not directly affect idle. However, A/C interface could still affect
idle.
On the TT, there may be more involved electrically, but I would first
suspect the vacuum clutch assist. If at low idle, and if there are vacuum line
or booster problems, it might stall the engine. With A/C on the idle is kept
higher so no stall.
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob G [mailto:Rguirlinger@cfl.rr.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 10, 2003 11:08 AM
I'm new too. Great site!
I'm having an idle problem as well, on my 92 3GT VR4. Car runs fine
as long as the AC is on. What ever mechanism that compensates for the pull
of the AC compressor works fine. The problem shows up when the compressor
cycles off or when the AC if off all together. Push in the clutch to turn
or stop and the engine will sometimes die. Starts right back up with no
problem.
I've looked around the archives as well and didn't see any posts that were
quite the same as what I am experiencing. Is there a throttle position sensor,
coolant temp sensor, or some other component that I should check?
Thanks!
Bob Guirlinger
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 16:46:15 -0400
From:
songsay@cs.comSubject: Team3S: engine
parts
I have recently pulled my oil pan off of my 92 vr4 and found shards of
copper, it was non magnetic material, it just sat at the bottom, not quite able
to exit the drain hole, but if there is anyone who knows what parts in the head
or bottom end that are made of copper or some other non ferrous metal, do send
info my way, I am stumped. planning on doing some sort of rebuild developed a
rod knock in cylinder three, had the rod bearing replaced with a .25 over
bearing, but still has strange rhythmic knock that doesn't go away. could lash
adjust have gotten clogged somehow an not lifting a valve. Please, anyone who
had torn apart the engine please provide info.
songsay in warm Alaska, 92 vr
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 16:50:44 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: engine parts
Songsay but the core material of you main bearing is copper IIRC, so those
copper shards are probably that bearing that you had previously replaced. TO be
brutally honest the only way to deal with a spun bearing is to do a complete
rebuild replacing your piston rings, having the crank ground and polished, and
then installing oversized bearings through out the entire crank.
Russ F
CT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 18:52:43 -0500
From: "msweet" <
msweet@neb.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S:
ignition wires?
Hi everyone,
I plan to buy some new ignition wires soon, but I'd like to hear what you
guys would recommend. My car is a 93 Dodge Stealth ES DOHC. I was going to buy a
set of Magnecor 8mm wires but they only have a kit for the SOHC. I asked
Magnecor about that, and they said they could make me a set of 8mm wires but
there could be some problems with it. So those are right out. I am tempted to
get the 8.5mm wires but that's probably more than I need, and I'd like to spend
less if I can find another nice set. What do you guys think?
Thanks!
Michael
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 16:58:21 -0700
From: "James Mutton" <
james@playstream.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: ignition wires?
OEM
- -James
95 Green VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 16:58:19 -0700 (PDT)
From:
g2write@newsguy.comSubject: Team3S:
blows off intake hose
I have a '92 TT stealth. It keeps blowing off the plastic hose that
clamps to the top of the intake. There is a rubber seal that fits on the
inside of the plastic piece and over the outside of the intake. Is the
rubber seal suppose to be molded into the plastic piece? Last time this blew off
the rubber seal was stuck inside the intake. I think a small piece (about
a centimeter long) broke off inside the intake. I didn't realize this
until later(after it was started). Will this cause problems later? Also,
if I do need to replace this plastic "hose" are there any after market parts I
could get that would replace it. I wanted to get a better air-flow system
anyhow. I heard K&N makes a good filter. Any
suggestions?
Thanks,
Gary Rohrbach
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 20:02:28 -0500
From: "steve ludi" <
sl10110@alltel.net>
Subject: Team3S:
speedo cable on 93 R/T n/a
Newbie asks if anyone has put the mechanical speedo cable gear back into
the transaxle. If so is it easier to replace from above or below the car. It was
taken out from above but looks rather difficult and hard to reach from above. I
have taken out the dash and will be putting it back together soon. Thanks Steve.
Member Team 3S
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 09:13:27 -0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: blows off intake hose
Are you talking about the Y-Pipe? There is a TON of information about
this in the archives. First, you can't buy the gasket separately from the
Y-Pipe. Second, the factory Y-Pipe is like $100. Third, there are
several aftermarket options. I have the DN Performance Y-Pipe (and
hardpipe kit, and turbo intake kit). Search the archives--you'll find a
lot of info.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
g2write@newsguy.com
[mailto:g2write@newsguy.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 10, 2003 7:58 PM
I have a '92 TT stealth. It keeps blowing off the plastic hose that
clamps to the top of the intake. There is a rubber seal that fits on the
inside of the plastic piece and over the outside of the intake. Is the
rubber seal suppose to be molded into the plastic piece? Last time this blew off
the rubber seal was stuck inside the intake. I think a small piece (about
a centimeter long) broke off inside the intake. I didn't realize this
until later(after it was started). Will this cause problems later? Also,
if I do need to replace this plastic "hose" are there any after market parts I
could get that would replace it. I wanted to get a better air-flow system
anyhow. I heard K&N makes a good filter. Any
suggestions?
Thanks,
Gary Rohrbach
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#127
***************************************