Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Sunday, April 6 2003 Volume 02 : Number 123

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Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 06:43:23 -0500
From: "Arthurs Family" <arthursfam@madbbs.com>
Subject: Team3S: Which 1 is # 1?

Please excuse this seemingly dumb question. I've been through my shop manual
(almost) cover to cover, but can't find a designation for cylinder numbers.

I assume # 1 cylinder is on the front (belted) end of engine, but is it the radiator side or the firewall side?

Lash me a thousand times for this one, but I've come too far on this to take ANY chances.

Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 10:26:58 EST
From: Merlin916@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: AVC-R for sale

150 plus shipping??!?!?! The cheapest new is usually from Titan
Motorsports - but I've NEVER seen it below 400... If I didn't already have one
in each of my cars id take it ;-). Best boost controller on the market.
Whoever goes for this is getting a sweet deal.

Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2003 09:55:35 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Which 1 is # 1?

#1 is on the front bank, driver's side. Odd in the front bank, even in the rear bank.

> Please excuse this seemingly dumb question. I've been through
> my shop manual (almost) cover to cover, but can't find a
> designation for cylinder numbers.
>
> I assume # 1 cylinder is on the front (belted) end of engine,
> but is it the radiator side or the firewall side?

Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2003 10:00:21 -0400
From: "Arthurs Family" <arthursfam@madbbs.com>
Subject: Team3S: Crankshaft

After spending 2 hours of reading the archives on the subject of crankshafts, I am more confused than before!

Six weeks ago I purchased a '92 Dodge Stealth RT/TT (mid year production
number) which came through the Chevy dealership I work for. 10 miles after I changed the oil (sludge) and replaced it with Mobil 1, I spun a rod bearing. The net result is my employer will buy the parts necessary for rebuild, I do the work.

The engine is now torn down and I am ready to present my list. The head of the service dept stated he would not go for a new crank, that he can get a re-manufactured crank (with all bearings) from one of his sources for a fraction of cost of new.

All the archived discussion on these cranks being nitrided or not has me in a quandary. I sure as heck don't want to put it all back together with a crank that will give me bearing failure as soon as I start driving it (again)!

In addition to the parts the dealer is providing, I am replacing (with stock
components) all those things that should be replaced while the engine is out.

Is there a definitive answer to whether or not a "remanufactured" crank is acceptable in this instance? Are the stock cranks in any way treated which would prevent acceptable "remanufacturing"?

End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #123
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