Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, April 3
2003 Volume 02 : Number 121
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 22:09:21 -0500
From: "John Monnin" <
John.Monnin@3si.zzn.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Is stroker motor kit a good idea for Turbo engine?
3.6L 6G72 Stroker Kits are now available but are they a good idea
for
high revving turbo motors?
Import Performance now offers a stroker kit that increases
displacement
to about 3.6L
That should be good for a 20% increase in torque across
the RPM
band. At $2500-$3000 it is actually reasonably priced
considering
you get forged crank, rods and pistons.
This Kit includes:
Flatlander Forged Crank
Stock Stroke (2.992",
76mm)
New Stroke (3.242", 82.5mm)
Custom Forged Pistons
(any
compression & diameter)
Forged Steel Pins
(ultra-lites
available)
Piston Pin Locks
Plasma Moly Racing Rings
4340 H-Beam
Rods
Toga Performance
Main & Rod Bearings
Comes balanced
Additional Options Available:
1. Ultra Lite Pins. Add $150
2. Knife-Edging. Reduces weight by up to 5
lbs Add $100
3. Forged Billet Pauter Rods. Add $499
I was curious if a stoker engine is a good idea for a high revving
turbo engine.
The maximum piston acceleration should increase some.
I found this
formula in “Automotive Math Handbook” and it also
stated that maximum
practical piston acceleration is between
100,000 and 150,000 ft/sec
squared
Accmax = rpm x rpm x S x (L + R/L)/2189
RPM=7,300 Stock, 8,300 is What Dynamic Racing pushed it to with SP
ECU
upgrade
S = Stroke, 2.992” stock, 3.242” new
L = rod to center
length in inches ?????
R = Crank throw Radius ?????
Unfortunately I do not know of few of the variable values for stock
or
stroker engines for comparison. If I have time tomorrow I'll
call
import performance parts and ask them.
I would love to here from some more experienced engine designers on
the
pros and cons of a stroker kit.
John Monnin
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2003 07:41:43 +0200
From: "CHRISTOPHER DOTUR" <
cjdotur@msn.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Problems with Wild Blue
Guys-
I've had problems trying to post to this list from MSN. Let's see if
this
works. Greetings to those from long ago!
Maybe you all can help figure this out. Wild Blue ('92 VR-4 with mega mods
for those who don't know me) is currently at Alamo Autosports in Arlington,
TX, getting some mods done after being in storage for 4 years. She drove
okay getting out of storage to get it to Alamo, but now she won't start. The
guys at Alamo and I are racking our brains to figure out what the heck is
happening.
Details are that she's getting fuel (plenty) and the starter is cranking
fine. But there's no spark. The voltage at the coils is apparently only 7V,
and that's not creating any spark, they tell me. With the car on, but not
started, all voltage and electrics read fine. The starter is drawing 62Amps,
I think, which apparently is normal for a starter, so that's not overly
drawing juice. Here's the things they've tried:
1. Check operation of starter motor
2. Check/charge/replace car
battery
3. Check voltage along entire ignition system
4. Replace spark
plugs
5. Replace Magnecore ignition wires
6. Replace coils
7.
Replace/swap ECU
8. Check entire engine bay for wiring problems
9. Check
and replace/fix battery strap to firewall
10. Other stuff I'm sure I'm not
aware of
What else could it be? Got any ideas of things we can try to fix the car
and
get her started?
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 23:57:04 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Problems with Wild Blue
Hey..is the GAS 4 years old?
- ---
**Now offering replacement
Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Porsche/SAAB/Volvo parts!**
------------------------------
Speaking of the age of GAS, my car has a little less than 1/2 a tank and it
has been in there for almost a year. With gas prices the way they are I
would hate to throw out like 20 bucks in gas if I don't have to.
Ideally I'd like to just finish putting her together and just run that tank
through then fill up again. Is this a sound idea?
My next question is if I threw in some fresh gas to mix with what was
already in the tank (fill it up) would I have problems/issues?
Starting to see the light on this project.....
Russ F
CT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2003 12:57
AM
Hey..is the GAS 4 years old?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 08:36:45 -0600
From: "xwing" <
xwing@wi.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Problems with Wild Blue
the ignitor electronics below the coils, swap out?
What exactly did
Alamo change?
What mods do you have now...do you have an MSD ignition box or
such? Are crank or cam angle sensors bad/wiring went bad? quick thoughts, late
for work, good luck! JT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2003 08:39:40 -0600
From: Jon Paine <
ppainej@attglobal.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Problems with Wild Blue
Voltage at coils is 12V with ignition on but drops to 7V when cranking?
Checked battery ground cable to engine/transaxle? That's where the
engine/starter get grounded. Checked grounding for coils?
Jon
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2003 14:41:18 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: FW: Drivability-cold engine-spits and sputters cold-unable to
accelerate until warm.----STILL HAVING PROBLEMS
Mike,
These type of cold-start and cold-run problems often occur because the ECU
thinks the engine is warmed up - meaning that engine coolant temp is at or above
176ºF for our cars. You say you checked the coolant temp sensor; but have you
checked that a good coolant temp signal is reaching the ECU? There could be a
break or short in the wire somewhere. With your '91 you could use a datalogger
to check what the ECU sees or a MUT tool. You could also measure the voltage for
the coolant temp sensor at the ECU connector. Voltage will be high (>3v) when
cold and low (<1v) when warmed up. My web page below or the service manual
tells how to perform these measurements. There are little "flaps or "doors" on
the outer long edges of the harness side of the connector that you can pivot
open to insert a probe into the ECU connector to make measurements. Be sure to
use the correct ground on the ECU connector.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Shupp" <
mshupp@rothrock.com>
Sent:
Wednesday, April 02, 2003 7:08 AM
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Shupp
[mailto:mshupp@rothrock.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2003 7:55 AM
Hello All,
I am still looking for any help with the listed problem below on this
vehicle. I have performed 2 additional repair attempts- a coil pack, and engine
control module. This puppy still will not run!!!1
91 Dodge Stealth Turbo, vehicle identification number- jb3xe74c7my011521.
Vehicle has a cold engine problem where the car spits and sputters, also seems
to backfire until vehicle warms up. The problem is so severe in the cold weather
the vehicle needs to idle 15 minutes before you can drive. The recent repairs
that have been performed on the vehicle are- spark plugs and ignition cables,
also replaced the Mass Airflow Sensor (vehicle would run cold with sensor
unplugged but lost idle quality). None of these repairs have helped the above
condition. We also have performed drivability tests on vehicle-no codes in the
system and fuel pressure is ok, o2 sensors and coolant sensors are operating
properly. Last year the vehicle had upper engine work due to timing belt
failure, the current mileage on the vehicle is 131,000. If anyone has
experienced this type of problem and can help- It would be appreciated
greatly.
Thanks, Mike
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 09:58:56 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Need help wiring MSD + Buick GN coils
Ok so last night I was motivated (well actually I was freezing but that is
beside the point) and was trying to figure out how in da hell I am going to wire
up the factory ignition transistor to the MSD DIS4, coil pack adaptor (for
hooking up Accel GN coils to MSD) GN coil pack (I have all three pieces).
My question is the wires coming out of the plug from the stock coils only
has 4 leads (3 blue with stripes and a red one). I can only assume the red
one gets the voltage and the 3 blues are the grounds for each coil pack (I know
we have a waste spark system) SO I figured in wiring up all six coil
terminals off the read lead in parallel. How ever what do I do about the 3
blues just ground them with the purple ground lead from DIS adaptor
plate????
This one had me all confused and of course I am terrible a reading wiring
schematics so the repair manuals were only of minimum use to me.......
Russ F
CT
- -----Original Message-----
From: xwing
[mailto:xwing@wi.rr.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2003 9:37 AM
the ignitor electronics below the coils, swap out?
What exactly did
Alamo change?
What mods do you have now...do you have an MSD ignition box or
such? Are crank or cam angle sensors bad/wiring went bad? quick thoughts, late
for work, good luck! JT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 08:56:26 -0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <
privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Is stroker motor kit a good idea for Turbo engine?
My engine is getting old, 170K +, still runs good but it's time is coming.
I would like to find a long block ahead of time and build a stroker for my SL.
Make much more sense for us non-turbo guys. I doubt I will ever take my revs
over stock red line since I have an autobox & RARELY hold it down.
Anyone know what the maximum bore for our cars is? Might as well take it all the
way out while I'm building it.
Pete Rivenburg
- -----Original Message-----
From: John Monnin
[mailto:John.Monnin@3si.zzn.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 8:09
PM
3.6L 6G72 Stroker Kits are now available but are they a good idea
for
high revving turbo motors?
[snip]
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 09:05:34 -0800
From: "James Mutton" <
james@playstream.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Gas age
While I see what you mean, it occurs to me that that may be "penny wise and
pound foolish". I mix old and new gas all the time... But only in my
lawnmower. :) On a high performance 3S just being finished I don't know
that I'd take the chance of any varnish clogging the injectors or getting into
other parts of the system. I'd drain the gas, then fill and run the pump
to purge the system of all the old stuff. No sense in risking clogs and
hours of troubleshooting over $20 in gas.
- -James
95 Green VR4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Furman, Russell
[mailto:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2003 6:22
AM
Speaking of the age of GAS, my car has a little less than 1/2 a tank and it
has been in there for almost a year. With gas prices the way they are I
would hate to throw out like 20 bucks in gas if I don't have to.
Ideally I'd like to just finish putting her together and just run that tank
through then fill up again. Is this a sound idea?
My next question is if I threw in some fresh gas to mix with what was
already in the tank (fill it up) would I have problems/issues?
Starting to see the light on this project.....
Russ F
CT
------------------------------
Thanks james but the only place that has old gas in it is the tank.
Everything else is new so its just the idea of throwing 7-9 gallons of gas at
like 2.02 a gallon is a little unsettling
- -----Original Message-----
From: James Mutton
[mailto:james@playstream.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2003 12:06 PM
While I see what you mean, it occurs to me that that may be "penny wise and
pound foolish". I mix old and new gas all the time... But only in my
lawnmower. :) On a high performance 3S just being finished I don't know
that I'd take the chance of any varnish clogging the injectors or getting into
other parts of the system. I'd drain the gas, then fill and run the pump
to purge the system of all the old stuff. No sense in risking clogs and
hours of troubleshooting over $20 in gas.
- -James
95 Green VR4
------------------------------
get a 10 gallon container, siphon out the old gas and use it for your
lawnmower.
Chuck
------------------------------
Good point actually could probably use it up real quickly in the leaf
blower (ya know the spring cleaning around the shrubs and for blowing all the
sand off the lawn)
Se` La Vi time to find a couple of empty joint compound pails when I
get home.....
Thanks folks time to get back to work
Russ F
CT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 09:54:20 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Gas age
> get a 10 gallon container, siphon out the old gas and use it for your
> lawnmower.
Easier than siphoning it would be to disconnect one of the fuel lines or
rails in the engine bay and then use the fuel pump test connector to have the
fuel pump pump out all the fuel from the tank. Then you'd know you got
just about all of it. That pump will make short work of removing the fuel
from the tank :-)
- --Erik
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 10:19:07 -0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need help wiring MSD + Buick GN coils
I've done this on my car (DIS-4 and MSD GN coils), but I didn't use a coil
pack adapter. I'm not familiar with the coil pack adapter you're talking
about...is that something that the DIS-4 can plug directly into? That
definitely makes a difference. :)
I found a picture on the MSD website, but no instructions. If you
could perhaps scan the instructions, it'd be helpful. It looks like the
adapter takes care of all the coil side wiring, which is great for you! I
was going to write some instructions on how I thought it should be wired, but
then I found a close-up picture of the adapter and I'm not as sure any
more.
Does the adapter's manual say that the adapter takes care of just the coil
wiring, or does it take care of the factory trigger wiring as well?
- - Brian
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Furman, Russell
[mailto:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
> Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2003 6:59
AM
>
> Ok so last night I was motivated (well actually I was
freezing but
> that is beside the point) and was trying to figure out how
in da hell
> I am going to wire up the factory ignition transistor to the
MSD DIS4,
> coil pack adaptor (for hooking up Accel GN coils to MSD)
GN
> coil pack (I have all three pieces).
>
> My question is
the wires coming out of the plug from the stock coils
> only has 4 leads
(3 blue with stripes and a red one). I can only
> assume the red
one gets the voltage and the 3 blues are the grounds
> for each coil pack
(I know we have a waste spark system) SO I figured
> in wiring up
all six coil terminals off the read lead in
> parallel. How ever
what do I do about the 3 blues just
> ground them with the purple ground
lead from DIS adaptor
> plate????
>
> This one had me all
confused and of course I am terrible a reading
> wiring schematics so the
repair manuals were only of minimum use to
> me.......
>
>
Russ F
> CT
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 13:25:44 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need help wiring MSD + Buick GN coils
Brian, it takes care of the wiring from factory transistor to the MSD DIS4
then back to the Coils. However it appears that on the GN's they have a
direct fire spark system as where we have a waste spark set up. I am
trying to figure out how it all goes together....
Do you have any pictures that I could take a look at and see if I can
figure out how I need to set my stuff up?
also I keep hearing we need a tach adaptor and something else????
Anyone have any ideas on that????
My previous experience had only been with coil pack it self (that was royal
PITA).
Russ F
CT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geddes, Brian J
[mailto:brian.j.geddes@intel.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2003 1:19
PM
I've done this on my car (DIS-4 and MSD GN coils), but I didn't use a coil
pack adapter. I'm not familiar with the coil pack adapter you're talking
about...is that something that the DIS-4 can plug directly into? That
definitely makes a difference. :)
I found a picture on the MSD website, but no instructions. If you
could perhaps scan the instructions, it'd be helpful. It looks like the
adapter takes care of all the coil side wiring, which is great for you! I
was going to write some instructions on how I thought it should be wired, but
then I found a close-up picture of the adapter and I'm not as sure any
more.
Does the adapter's manual say that the adapter takes care of just the coil
wiring, or does it take care of the factory trigger wiring as well?
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 10:29:54 -0800
From: "James Mutton" <
james@playstream.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Need help wiring MSD + Buick GN coils
You need 2 Tach Adapters.
Also, it was my understanding that MSD Did not
have a Coil Pack adapter for our cars and it's basically a harness that makes
the DIS4 Plug-n-Play. That'd be really cool if they started making one,
but for now the only way I'm aware of is hardwiring it in.
- -James
95 Green VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 10:38:29 -0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need help wiring MSD + Buick GN coils
Russell -
You definitely need two tach adapters. The PN is 8912.
The GN's only had three coils, so they can't be direct fire. I'm
pretty sure they're waste spark. Our is a similar setup, so it should be
just a matter of figuring out which wire goes to which.
There are 4 wires going to our stock coil. The red is voltage, and
each of the blues are the ground/trigger wires for each of the three
coils. Make sure you note which wire goes to which stock coil; you'll need
to make sure that correspondence is maintained through the MSD setup.
The GN should have the same 4 input wires (voltage, trigger x3).
You'll need to splice the stock wires into the proper corresponding wires on the
coil adapter.
I can't be of much more help without getting my hands on the adapter or
seeing some instructions...sorry. :(
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 14:47:14 EST
From:
MerisaPDX@aol.comSubject: Team3S: 1991
Teal Blue RT for sale
I have a 1991 Teal Blue RT for sale. The car has 132K miles, a new
motor
with 11K miles on it, a new automatic transmission with 4K miles on
it, new
tires on the stock rims, new brakes, a Pioneer CD XM ready stereo
system, ice
cold air conditioning, everything works except the
following: needs new
struts and ABS pump. Please email me and I
will forward a picture. The car
is a California car, is registered in
California and just passed smog with
flying colors. I have $4,500 in
the motor alone and I am asking $5,000.00
for the car.
Merrisa
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2003 22:05:23 +0200
From: "CHRISTOPHER DOTUR" <
cjdotur@msn.com>
Subject: Team3S: More
info on Wild Blue's ignition problem
Geoff! Hey, man, how's it going?! I've been following the list
for some time now, periodically trying to post but getting my E-mails
rejected. It's good to see so many old faces and names that I knew before
I went to Europe (Germany) 4 years ago. Geoff, you're the same guy I knew
in Tulsa, OK, right? Didn't I donate a intake y-pipe to your car or
something?
No, the car got a once-over fairly detailed inspection from a mechanic when
I got it out of storage, flushing coolant, replacing worn seals, etc. I
periodically was able to get it out of storage and drive for a bit and change
the gas and oil over the 4 years, so the gas is brand new. The problem
with the car seems to be focused in the ignition system, since everything checks
fine while the car is powered on, but before the engine is started. All
voltage normal. Then when we go to start, we get fuel through the
injectors, the starter cranks, but the coils suddenly drop to 7V and we get no
spark to start the engine.
Ideas, anyone?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 14:09:21 -0600
From: "Darlene Madden" <
dmadden@selectis.com>
Subject:
Team3S: fading black trim
I am getting ready to repaint my 93 Stealth ES and asked the body shop if
they can buff out the black trim that goes around the roof of the car from front
to back and goes under the rear spoiler. He didn't sound too encouraging.
Anybody have any ideas?
Darlene Madden,
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 13:18:33 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: More info on Wild Blue's ignition problem
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "CHRISTOPHER DOTUR" <
cjdotur@msn.com>
>
-----------snip------- It's good to see so many old faces and
names
> that I knew before I went to Europe (Germany) 4 years ago.
>
-----------snip------- The problem with the car seems to be focused
> in the ignition system, since everything checks fine while the
car
> is powered on, but before the engine is started. All voltage
normal.
> Then when we go to start, we get fuel through the injectors,
the
> starter cranks, but the coils suddenly drop to 7V and we get
no
> spark to start the engine. Ideas, anyone?
-
-------------------------->
Glad you're back among us, Chris!!! I'm guessing that you charged the
battery, but it won't take a full charge. Even though it shows full
voltage, there are almost no amps going through it. Swap it out for a
*new*, charged battery and try it again. Think of a seldom used
flashlight... - that you turn it on and it's bright for a few seconds, then
fades out. It could be that's all the juice you've got, to turn it over -
barely... Our cars need full amperage to operate correctly. Don't be
fooled by voltage readings alone - they mean nothing. Good luck,
Chris! And welcome home!
Forrest
------------------------------
I need to get my 3000 up off the ground a little more than what it is
right now. I had a run in with a raccoon and with the Erebuni Front
I have on it, needless to say, didn't fare to well. What would be a
few options I would have to raise my car up a few inches.
Thanks,
Russ Williams
Smithsburg, MD
Black '95 3000GT
------------------------------
Back to stock springs..
Of course..a few INCHES is a lot..
You just gotta learn to suck up..and accept things like that in a sports
car...you wont raise it enough to clear the next coon either way.
- ---
**Now offering replacement
Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Porsche/SAAB/Volvo parts!**
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 03 Apr 2003 23:37:20 +0200
From: "CHRISTOPHER DOTUR" <
cjdotur@msn.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
More info on Wild Blue's ignition problem
Jim (and all)-
Thanks for the replies, guys. Even though I'm not able to be
physically at
the shop, I'm in constant telephone contact with Alamo,
getting the
information that they're telling me and relaying any thought
that I can pass
on from myself and others.
Apparently, here's the deal: when the car is turned on, but before
engine
start, the red positive lead wire to the ignition coils reads 13
Volts.
When the key is turned to "start", the same red lead wire drops
to 7V.
Everything else appears to be normal--the starter motor cranks
just fine and
has a normal power draw, (62 Amps I think?) we get fuel
through the
injectors, etc. Alamo is telling me that they are not
seeing any sort of
spark at all at the plugs from that 7 volts during
start. They've checked
and replaced every item in the ignition system,
and tested out the parts on
other cars. They check fine. And as
of yet they haven't found anything
upstream of the lead ignition wire that
would cause a voltage drop.
Any more thoughts?
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 15:50:29 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: More info on Wild Blue's ignition problem
Put YOUR battery in another car.
I don't care what the starter draws..if voltage is low..it'll draw more
amps to compensate.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 14:03:21 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: More info on Wild Blue's ignition problem
> Any more thoughts?
You've got a '92, right? Have you replaced the capacitors in the
ECU? If not, pull the ECU real quick and take a look at the circuit
boards. Be on the alert for that infamous fishy/rotten-Chinese-food smell,
and fluid leaking from the capacitors. "Eaten" parts of the board would be
a giveaway as well. Should be pretty easy to check (20 min) and a
bad/going ECU can cause ALL kinds of symptoms you'dve never thunk of :-)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 13:30:42 -0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: More info on Wild Blue's ignition problem
Sounds like a great time to switch to a better ignition setup. An MSD
DIS-4 and GM-style 2 post coils should clear up any possible problems.
:)
BTW, you're in Puyallup? I replied to a post of yours a while ago
about the AEM EMS...did you end up getting it?
- - Brian
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 17:18:09 -0600
From: "bigbucho" <
bigbucho@sbcglobal.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 94 3000GT N/A: Strange ticking sound from the driver side dash after
getting some rear quarter panel body work done.
Push the Reset button on your mileage tracker...its probably stuck, I had
the same thing happen to me and I thought it was electrical or something..
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
stealth@quixnet.net>
Sent:
Wednesday, April 02, 2003 11:15 AM
> Does the change in the ticking coincide with changes in RPM on the
> tach, or just with vehicle speed?
>
> You say the ticking
happens every 5-10 seconds: is that 5-10 seconds
> between ticks?
Or does it tick for a while, go away for a while, tick
> for a while, ad
infinitum?
>
> Dennis Moore
> 93 Stealth ES
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 18:30:21 -0500
From: "bdtrent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Is stroker motor kit a good idea for Turbo engine?
John,
One of the less known facts about long stroke designs is that they
utilize
combustion pressure more efficiently. As the bore diameter
increases
relative to the stroke, a greater percentage of combustion pressure
is
acting on the bore wall, i.e. bore wall surface area increases at a
greater
rate than piston top area as the bore dia. increases. Down
side? Less heat
sink area to move combustion heat to the water jacket
(good for efficiency,
bad for reliability). Otherwise, you nailed
it. Max rpm is reduced in
order to bring max piston velocity down to a
reliable speed.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "John Monnin" <
John.Monnin@3si.zzn.com>
Sent:
Wednesday, April 02, 2003 10:09 PM
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 18:37:53 -0500
From: "bdtrent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Problems with Wild Blue
Wow, that's a name from a while ago. Glad to see you back.
Otherwise, I
can't add anymore than what's been offered so far.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
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Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 17:59:09 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Is stroker motor kit a good idea for Turbo engine?
I've done it.
Its a great idea for low compression upgrades..gives you back the
torque
you gave up in lowering the compression.
Consider that your redline MAY have to go lower because of the
stroke..but
if you use good rods and pistons..you'll be ok.
On Thu, 3 Apr 2003, bdtrent wrote:
> John,
>
> One of the less known facts about long stroke
designs is that they utilize
> combustion pressure more efficiently.
As the bore diameter increases
> relative to the stroke, a greater
percentage of combustion pressure is
> acting on the bore wall, i.e. bore
wall surface area increases at a greater
> rate than piston top area as
the bore dia. increases. Down side? Less heat
> sink area to
move combustion heat to the water jacket (good for efficiency,
> bad for
reliability). Otherwise, you nailed it. Max rpm is reduced
in
> order to bring max piston velocity down to a reliable speed.
>
> Regards,
> DaveT/92TT
- ---
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Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Porsche/SAAB/Volvo parts!**
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 16:28:47 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: fading black trim
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Darlene Madden" <
dmadden@selectis.com>
> I am
getting ready to repaint my 93 Stealth ES and asked the body shop if
they can
buff out the black trim that goes around the roof of the car from
front to
back and goes under the rear spoiler. He didn't sound too
encouraging.
Anybody have any ideas?
> Darlene Madden,
-
---------------------->
Hey, Darlene,
I've heard rumors about using everything from transmission
fluid (don't let it
touch the car finish!), to shoe polish and furniture
cleaners... But our
resident "detailing" expert is Gregg Couture, and
his suggestion is for a
"Mother's" product made for this type of trim.
Gregg's Detailing Page is on
our website, Check the Team3S FAQ Index Page, in
the Cosmetics section.
Best,
Forrest
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Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2003 21:18:04 -0500
From: "Joseph Spainhour" <
spainhou@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Ouch, Found my boost leak :(
Hey Jeff,
Any idea what the part number is on the black piece of plastic that
holds
the wiring harness for the injectors that is in your picture?
Joseph
93 VR-4
------------------------------
Hey Russ,
So, old gas is not a good thing, if you wanted to stabilize it,
you
should have put this in the tank in the first few months of it
sitting.
My advice is to empty it out and pony up for the extra tank. Better
to
be safe than sorry!!
Jason
GarageDynamics
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#121
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