Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth   Wednesday, April 2 2003   Volume 02 : Number 120
 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 16:13:54 -0700
From: "Donald Ashby" <dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject: Team3S: Restrictor piece in tubing
 
There is a small metal restrictor piece in my vacuum hose. Its the one that has red ends on it, comes off the throttle body elbow. Anyway, would it be necessary to keep this piece, or is it not vital at all? Donald Ashby '93 3000GT VR-4 "Don't drink and park, accidents cause people!"
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 15:39:35 -0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Restrictor piece in tubing
 
Yank it!  If you take that out, you'll get a free boost upgrade.  It's just a restrictor to limit boost in 1st gens to 10 PSI or so.  If you take it out, I believe you'll get about 12 PSI - 2nd gen stock boost.
 
- - Brian
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 16:07:36 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Restrictor piece in tubing
 
If that's a restrictor in the hose on the y-pipe (the one with the red stripe), then that's the wastegate actuator vacuum line.  Theoretically, putting a restrictor in that would either do nothing (slight restriction) or slow the response of the wastegates (big restriction) but not affect steady-state boost.  Thus you'd either have no difference or have more spiking, but the same sustained boost...  not great IMHO.
 
I'm not sure why there'd be a restrictor in the hose from the y-pipe - that doesn't make any sense to me.  A bleeder valve, yeah, but not a restrictor.
 
I think the restrictor Brian mentioned is a ring inside one of the nipples of the stock boost solenoid on the 1G cars.  This limits the amount of air that is vented back to the intake by the solenoid, so it does affect maximum boost.  When the solenoid is closed, it doesn't change anything, so the wastegates' functionality would be unaffected.
 
- --Erik
'95 VR-4  www.team3s.com/~egross
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 16:35:20 -0800
From: "James Mutton" <james@playstream.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Restrictor piece in tubing
 
Possibly a check valve that someone installed.  Can you describe it?
 
- -James
95 Green VR4
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 18:15:06 -0700
From: "Donald Ashby" <dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Restrictor piece in tubing
 
Not a check valve, just takes the 3/16ths pipe down to about 1/16th. I yanked it, nothing wrong yet Donald Ashby '93 3000GT VR-4 "Don't drink and park, accidents cause people!"
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf Of Donald Ashby
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 18:14
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Restrictor piece in tubing
 

There is a small metal restrictor piece in my vacuum hose. Its the one that has red ends on it, comes off the throttle body elbow. Anyway, would it be necessary to keep this piece, or is it not vital at all? Donald Ashby '93 3000GT VR-4 "Don't drink and park, accidents cause people!"
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 20:57:31 -0600
From: "Dan Hyde" <danielhyde@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear turbo housing gets cherry red when I run it hard
 
I think the 'exchange' on this one has now come to a close. The following is an email thanking TEAM3S for contributing thoughts and ideas.
 
Dan
97 VR4
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <Reinman25@aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 10:48 AM
 
Hey guys,
thank everyone for their help on this issue.  I greatly appreciate the fact that I can come to the boards to have my issue discussed and hopefully solved. I will be working closely with my mad scientist mechanic to resolve this issue and when we figure it out, I will make a post for future 3sier's to know thanks sergio
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 23:51:45 -0700
From: "Donald Ashby" <dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject: Team3S: Ouch, Found my boost leak :(
 
Turns out I stripped a hole in the plenum. Its the bottom row middle hole, one of the studs that holds the plenum onto that thing (I call it a runner because I don't know what it's called). I was changing gaskets after replacing a lot of worn out vacuum tubing, and I tightened it a little too much and POP. Pulled the stud out and the threads pulled all the metal out. Now there is nothing to bolt it onto. I pressure tested it to about 5 psi, leaks to 0 in about 30 seconds. Here is the problem I'm having: First of all, what is that thing the plenum bolts to called? Second, would not having that bolt there cause it to leak that much air, or could there be another problem? Third, is it normal for over tightening a bolt (I was using a little 5" 3/8 drive ratchet, not even putting my weight into it, and I'm not exactly a big person) to rip out the threads? And finally how much would a new one of those things cost? Thanks to everyone.
 
*Update* Another stud just came out, its the one where if your looking at the plenum from the front, it would be the close right nut. I was tightening it down, and pop, out came the whole stud, now my whateveryoucallit is missing 2 studs. Car has 100,034 miles on it Donald Ashby '93 3000GT VR-4 (can't boost past 6 psi) "Don't drink and park, accidents cause people!"
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 01:21:06 -0800 (PST)
From: John Cipolletti <cipxyzb@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: WARNING ABOUT RUSTING
 
I have a 93 Stealth and had a headlight go out the
other day.  It was a bit of a problem removing the
unit but when I did I found that water had gotten into
the light housing and had produced rust that ate
through the metal.  I rebuilt both headlight housings
and used epoxy filler to make it better then ever.  I
haven't seen any comments on rusting of these cars.
Is there some special treatment everyone uses to keep
rust away?
 
                         John Cipolletti
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 05:41:00 -0500
From: "Walter D. Best" <wdb039@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ouch, Found my boost leak :(
 
First, it's called a lower plenum.
Second, yes when ever you build up pressure it could leak, especially if you have two striped Third, These parts are only aluminum and that is why the shop manual has torque specs. Lastly, yes call around to an auto parts re-cycler you should be able to pick one up for $20 -$25, the upper plenums are the hard things to find and the lower plenum are the same for turbos and N/A so there plenty of them out there.
 
Hope this helps,
 
Dave Best
For polishing and powder coating: http://www.gofastgoodies.com
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 08:29:26 -0500
From: Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com
Subject: Team3S: re: Active Aero rear fin sticking
 
Adam, there are two lever-arm switches located in the rear wing motor assembly. When they start to go bad, the wing will exhibit the behavior you describe. You may also notice that when the weather is damp, the wing works more consistently. Replacement of these switches will usually solve the problem, and it wouldn't hurt to lubricate the cables while you're in there. The switches are available at Radio Shack for about $2 each. Part number is 275-017. If you've never done it before, it's about a 2 hour job to replace these switches, and requires a 10mm socket wrench, Phillips screwdriver, wire cutter/stripper, and a soldering iron. For detailed instructions, John Adams has some good ones on his site at www.vr4stealth.com. Hope this helps.
 
Jeff W
'92VR4
 
>I have a 94 VR4 and in the last few months the rear fin on the active
>aero system has begun to stick on occasion, maybe like once a week at
>most. The front air dam is working fine and I am still getting a green light
>on the active aero switch.   Does anybody know what could be causing this?
>Or better yet a quick easy fix?
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 09:08:59 -0500
From: "Mike Shupp" <mshupp@rothrock.com>
Subject: Team3S: FW: Drivability-cold engine-spits and sputters cold-unable to accelerate until warm.----STILL HAVING PROBLEMS
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike Shupp [mailto:mshupp@rothrock.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2003 7:55 AM
 
Hello All,
 
I am still looking for any help with the listed problem below on this vehicle. I have performed 2 additional repair attempts- a coil pack, and engine control module. This puppy still will not run!!!1
 
91 Dodge Stealth Turbo, vehicle identification number- jb3xe74c7my011521. Vehicle has a cold engine problem where the car spits and sputters, also seems to backfire until vehicle warms up. The problem is so severe in the cold weather the vehicle needs to idle 15 minutes before you can drive. The recent repairs that have been performed on the vehicle are- spark plugs and ignition cables, also replaced the Mass Airflow Sensor (vehicle would run cold with sensor unplugged but lost idle quality). None of these repairs have helped the above condition. We also have performed drivability tests on vehicle-no codes in the system and fuel pressure is ok, o2 sensors and coolant sensors are operating properly. Last year the vehicle  had upper engine work due to timing belt failure, the current mileage on the vehicle is 131,000. If anyone has experienced this type of problem and can help- It would be appreciated greatly.
 
Thanks, Mike
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 14:16:40 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Restrictor piece in tubing
 
This is not a factory item that you describe. It sounds like a makeshift "boost increaser" - something like the small clamp I used on the same hose as my first "boost controller". Any "restriction" in the hose that comes off the Y-pipe will increase boost. Total restriction of this hose will not let any Y-pipe air reach the wastegates (and they should not open). If you have a real boost gauge, has the max boost changed at all since you removed this item?
 
Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Ashby" <dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 6:15 PM
 
Not a check valve, just takes the 3/16ths pipe down to about 1/16th. I yanked it, nothing wrong yet
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2003 14:22:41 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ouch, Found my boost leak :(
 
Don,
 
It sounds like you need to get a 3000GT service manual and a basic "auto mechanics" manual.
 
Is that "thing" what is pictured on my web page below?
 
http://www.stealth316.com/2-intmanifport.htm
 
If so, the only studs are on the outer ends of the intake manifold. They do not protrude into the ports as far as I remember, but if you pulled one out it may have broken through the edge of a port (if so, time for a new manifold). Do not blame yourself in this. You would have to be a real brute to be able to twist a good stud out with a 5" wrench. I would guess the previous owner damaged the manifold and poorly installed a new stud. Perhaps the same person that installed the "boost controller" you mention in another thread.
 
You are not referring the hex-head cap screws are you? What many (including myself and Mitsubishi) would call "bolts". There are 5 cap screws that hold the plenum to the intake manifold and two nuts (the nuts go on the two studs described above).
 
If you were changing the intake manifold plenum gasket, you might have been changing the spark plugs also. Did the plugs look good?
 
http://www.stealth316.com/2-sparkchange.htm
 
Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Ashby" <dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 11:51 PM
 
Turns out I stripped a hole in the plenum. Its the bottom row middle hole, one of the studs that holds the plenum onto that thing (I call it a runner because I don't know what it's called). I was changing gaskets after replacing a lot of worn out vacuum tubing, and I tightened it a little too much and POP. Pulled the stud out and the threads pulled all the metal out. Now there is nothing to bolt it onto. I pressure tested it to about 5 psi, leaks to 0 in about 30 seconds. Here is the problem I'm having: First of all, what is that thing the plenum bolts to called? Second, would not having that bolt there cause it to leak that much air, or could there be another problem? Third, is it normal for over tightening a bolt (I was using a little 5" 3/8 drive ratchet, not even putting my weight into it, and I'm not exactly a big person) to rip out the threads? And finally how much would a new one of those things cost? Thanks to everyone.
 
*Update* Another stud just came out, its the one where if your looking at the plenum from the front, it would be the close right nut. I was tightening it down, and pop, out came the whole stud, now my whateveryoucallit is missing 2 studs. Car has 100,034 miles on it Donald Ashby '93 3000GT VR-4 (can't boost past 6 psi) "Don't drink and park, accidents cause people!"
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 08:38:01 -0600
From: "Philip Kennedy" <pkennedy@sfigroupinc.com>
Subject: Team3S: 94 3000GT N/A: Strange ticking sound from the driver side dash after getting some rear quarter panel body work done.
 
I just got my baby back from the shop yesterday, had some damage fixed. The damage was located on the rear passenger door/rear quarter panel area. Now for my question, There is now a ticking sound coming from the driver side dash/steering column area. It sounds like a small electrical switch not working  quite right or not making the circuit. The sound isn't there while the car is stationary, but as soon as I start going through the gears the sound is there. It seems as though the ticking might pick up the tempo a little the faster I go. At a steady speed the ticking happens about every 5-10 seconds. I can drown out the ticking with my radio turned up a little, which I don't listen to much anyways. Does anyone know what the repair shop might have done to cause this ticking sound? What they might not have connected right when putting things back together? Has anyone heard this sound before? Any help here would be very appreciated.
 
- -Philip K
94' 3000GT N/A
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 10:33:03 -0500
From: "Nick Moore" <nmoore33@purdue.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: FW: Drivability-cold engine-spits and sputters cold-unable to accelerate until warm.----STILL HAVING PROBLEMS
 
Hey
 I had this problem last year with my car. Eventually, my car wouldn't do anything, so I took it in. They found that I had some wiring problems. The ground wire for the ECU was corroded. All they did was clean it and the car was good as new. I didn't really get it, but it worked so you might want to check that out.
 
Nick
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 12:15:17 -0500
From: "stealth@quixnet.net" <stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 94 3000GT N/A: Strange ticking sound from the driver side dash after getting some rear quarter panel body work done.
 
Does the change in the ticking coincide with changes in RPM on the tach, or just with vehicle speed?
 
You say the ticking happens every 5-10 seconds: is that 5-10 seconds between ticks?  Or does it tick for a while, go away for a while, tick for a while, ad infinitum?
 
Dennis Moore
93 Stealth ES
 
Original Message:
- -----------------
[snip]
 
There is now a ticking sound coming from the driver side dash/steering column area. It sounds like a small electrical switch not working  quite right or not making the circuit. The sound isn't there while the car is stationary, but as soon as I start going through the gears the sound is there. It seems as though the ticking might pick up the tempo a little the faster I go. At a steady speed the ticking happens about every 5-10 seconds. I can drown out the ticking with my radio turned up a little, which I don't listen to much anyways. [snip]
 
- -Philip K
94' 3000GT N/A
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 09:40:02 -0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Restrictor piece in tubing
 
Yep, the solenoid ring is the one I thought he was talking about.  I didn't read carefully enough to realize he was talking about something else.  :)
 
- - Brian
 
> I think the restrictor Brian mentioned is a ring inside one of the
> nipples of the stock boost solenoid on the 1G cars. This limits the
> amount of air that is vented back to the intake by the solenoid, so it
> does affect maximum boost. When the solenoid is closed, it doesn't
> change anything, so the wastegates' functionality would be unaffected.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 11:59:13 -0600
From: "Philip Kennedy" <pkennedy@sfigroupinc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 94 3000GT N/A: Strange ticking sound from the driver side dash after getting some rear quarter panel body work done.
 
The tick happens every 5-10 seconds roughly, not to sure on the exact timing. Since I just got it back yesterday, I'm not to sure if the ticking coincides with changes in my RPM, but I don't think it does. The ticking does not happen when the car is stationary only when moving. It doesn't sound like anything in the engine bay. I had a problem with lifter tick a few months ago, followed the instructions under the FAQ section of the website, fixed that right up. On my drive to work this morning, while driving, I tried to get an idea of where the ticking was coming from and if I could feel the tick through the dash. It seems to be coming from either the steering column or right behind the main gauge display. I couldn't feel anything with my hand to narrow down the location. It does seem as though the ticking picks up the tempo while accelerating, but then again it might not. I will do more testing on that theory later on today on my drive home. It's just got me worried, new sounds worry me when I can't identify them. Anyone have any tests they want me to conduct to try and narrow it down some more? I'm about to have to head to Chicago for my grandmothers funeral tomorrow, won't be back at a computer until early next week. I'm going to give the Body shop a call and see what they tell me later on today also.
 
94' 3000GT N/A
- -Philip K.
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <stealth@quixnet.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 11:15 AM
 
> Does the change in the ticking coincide with changes in RPM on the
> tach, or just with vehicle speed?
>
> You say the ticking happens every 5-10 seconds: is that 5-10 seconds
> between ticks?  Or does it tick for a while, go away for a while, tick
> for a while, ad infinitum?
>
> Dennis Moore
> 93 Stealth ES
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 12:36:07 -0600
From: "Philip Kennedy" <pkennedy@sfigroupinc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 94 3000GT N/A: Strange ticking sound from the driver side dash after getting some rear quarter panel body work done.
 
Just took my car to the corner store for some smokes. Let me make a little note, it's every 10-15 seconds. When I was parked, I put it in neutral and revved the engine a bit to see if it was my RPM gauge that was ticking, no tick sounded. On my way home I'm going to check if it has anything to do with my A/C. Any other tests I could do to figure this out would be great. Thanks to all that have responded so far.
 
94' 3000GT N/A
- -Philip K.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 16:07:12 -0500
From: "anthonymelillo" <anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: VENDOR ALERT-COVERKING AND HEAVEN FOR CARS
 
As many of you may know I have been trying since December of last year to get a cover replaced that CoverKing lost on me.  They refuse to replace the cover or refund my money, even after me sending them documentation and shipping receipts showing that.  UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES DEAL WITH COVERKING OR DASHKING.
 
I have also dealt with Heaven For Cars Motoring since I originally purchased the cover form them, and they refuse to lend any assistance, plus, I heard they are going out of business.  DON'T DEAL WITH THEM EITHER.
 
Just wanted to warn everyone before you get taken like I did.  I am out a $300 car cover
 
Anthony Melillo
1997 VR-4, Firestorm Red http://home.sprintmail.com/~anthonymelillo/3000gt.htm
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 16:19:12 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: DIY rotor resurfacing
 
OK Guys, Let's get another 'get that crap out of my face' thread.
 
Has anyone tried out the grinding pads as seen on TV ?
They are brake pads with grinding material surface, you stick em in, turn your wheels for awhile, and they are supposed to get resurfaced.
 
Looks a bit hokey, but they do have 'on car' brake lathe equipment, so it might work for light resurfacing. Wouldn't expect it to cure any serious damage or warping.
 
Thoughts?
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 15:21:00 -0600
From: "Philip Kennedy" <pkennedy@sfigroupinc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 94 3000GT N/A: Strange ticking sound from the driver side dash after getting some rear quarter panel body work done.
 
I called up the body shop and asked if they baked the paint to dry it. The person handling my body/paint work said, they didn't use a UV or IR bake. So no UV/IR bake was used on my car's paint unless they are not telling me something.
 
94' 3000GT N/A
- -Philip K.
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <Rod2414738@aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 12:28 PM
 
> Do you know if the body shop baked the paint to dry it?  If so, what
> temperature?  Maybe the tick you are hearing is a solenoid/relay that
> is controlled by the ECU.  The heat from baking paint could possibly
> have caused an already bad electrolytic capacitor to start to leak. 
> The leaky capacitor may have increased in Equivalent Series Resistance
> (ESR) and be letting noise through it, causing the solenoid/relay to
> open and close.  If this is the problem, there is really no way the
> body shop could be responsible.
>
> -Rod
> '93 Stealth R/T TT
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 13:48:46 -0800
From: "Dean Benz" <dean@benzfamily.us>
Subject: Re: Team3S: DIY rotor resurfacing
 
I personally don't believe in turning rotors unless they are damaged in some way. In fact, everything I have read from a racing perspective says brake in new rotors with old pads, and new pads with old rotors.
 
Cutting away perfectly good material only shortens the life of the rotor IMHO.
 
Then again, I don't mind a little brake squeal as long as the things will drag me down from 100+ at the end of the straight.
 
I would also be concerned about some of that abrasive material getting embedded in my pads and continuing to eat at my rotors.
 
I wish somebody in my area had a rotor grinder instead of a lathe, they do a beautiful job...
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 16:54:28 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: DIY rotor resurfacing
 
Agreed Dean, it is amazing what a zero cut grinder does to rotors and flywheels.  Of course it is my understanding that remachining our stock flywheels is a BAD idea....
 
Russ F
CT
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 16:03:18 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: DIY rotor resurfacing
 
why? I thought this was standard practice during clutch replacement.
 
Chuck
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Furman, Russell [mailto:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 3:54 PM
 
Agreed Dean, it is amazing what a zero cut grinder does to rotors and flywheels.  Of course it is my understanding that remachining our stock flywheels is a BAD idea....
 
Russ F
CT
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 17:05:21 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: DIY rotor resurfacing
 
I thought most of us DID NOT reuse the stock flywheel but generally replaced it with a Fidenza or RPS (both of which have replaceable friction surfaces on the face of the flywheels)....
 
If you are reusing the stocker I would at least get it machined or get it ground (on the previously mentioned zero cut grinder)
 
Russ F
CT
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E. [mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 5:03 PM
 
why? I thought this was standard practice during clutch replacement.
 
Chuck
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 17:06:51 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: DIY rotor resurfacing
 
I had the same understanding as Russ.  When I did my clutch, I recall reading somewhere (perhaps in the service manual) that if there is a suspicion that the flywheel might be warped, to change it, and not resurface it.  The reason is that the extreme horsepower it handles might cause it to fly apart if resurfaced.
 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E. [mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 5:03 PM
 
why? I thought this was standard practice during clutch replacement.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 16:08:31 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: DIY rotor resurfacing
 
Huh..well, that assumes 100%Q functional calipers..etc I suppose.
 
- ---
   **Now offering replacement Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Porsche/SAAB/Volvo parts!**
 
Where do you buy YOUR brakes from?
orders@speedtoys.com  Maybe I can help..asking is free.  :)
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2003 15:24:46 -0800
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: DIY rotor resurfacing
 
My guess --- It probably removes some smaller grooves but probably has little affect on warping which is about the only reason I have rotors turned --- I have mine ground.
 
They make it sound as though it's a big labor saver --- If you want to do all four rotors you still have to remove the wheels and pads add the grinders
reinstall the wheels drive the car [ with abrasive pads -- yikes ] then reverse the process --- AWD would be a little easier.
 
Sounds like a PITA to me although if you lived in the middle of West Armpit
Nevada and had to drive 80 miles for service it'd be worth a try.
        Jim Berry
 
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
 
> Huh..well, that assumes 100%Q functional calipers..etc I suppose.
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
------------------------------
 
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #120
***************************************