Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, April 1
2003 Volume 02 : Number
119
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 31 Mar 2003 12:00:15 -0500
From: Adam May <
adam.may@lrp.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Active Aero rear fin sticking
HI,
I have a 94 VR4 and in the last
few months the rear fin on the active aero
system has begun to stick on
occasion, maybe like once a week at most.
The front air dam is working fine
and I am still getting a green light
on the
active aero
switch. Does anybody know what could be causing this?
Or better
yet a quick easy fix?
Thanks
Adam
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 10:31:20
-0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear turbo housing gets cherry red when I run it hard
Overly
retarded timing (like when the ECU sees knock) will also raise EGT's
significantly.
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Furman, Russell [mailto:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
> Sent: Monday, March 31,
2003 6:00 AM
> To: 'Dan Hyde'; Geoff Mohler; Team3S
> Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rear turbo housing gets cherry red when I run it
> hard
>
>
> I would want to know what boost pressure he's running (in KG
> or PSI) does he
> have larger injectors and some form of fuel
control?
>
> If not then he is running damn lean and really needs
to be careful....
>
> I once did a full third gear and partial 4th
gear pull at 15
> psi on my stock
> hairdryers. Immediately
pulled into a rest stop (on the MA
> Pike) and the
> manifolds +
turbine housings were glowing a bit (it was 1AM
> so not too hard
>
to see).
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 10:33:13
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Rear turbo housing gets cherry red when I run it hard
My guess --- turbos
will glow when run hard, I would expect the rear to run
hotter because of
it's location. The front gets more air flow and probably
shows less
heat.
I've never shown fuel problems at 15 psi and a stock fuel system,
including
many miles on road tracks where binary throttle is the norm. I've
had a data
logger on a few times [ not at the track ] and didn't see a drop
in O2 readings.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 13:48:06
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear turbo housing gets cherry red when I run it hard
Jim I
have no doubt that you never saw a problem my concern is doing
long/full gear
pulls (like I mentioned below) going from 55 to say 140-150.
You are going to
run out of fuel my pocket logger by the upper part of 4th
(5spd) so IDC at
100% and my knock counts steadily rising.....
The knock sums are why I
let out, I will have to see if I can find my logs
from various shakedown runs
(kind of made a habit of stretching the cars
legs when traveling to and from
Boston)
Russ F
CT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 12:48:50
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rear turbo housing gets cherry red when I run it hard
Question
though, 15 psi on stock turbos, or upgraded? DR500's are on
the car in
question, so my guess the whole time would be that it is
running
lean...
- -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 11:11:48
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Rear turbo housing gets cherry red when I run it hard
Good point ---
stock turbos in my case, which of course will not hold 15 to
redline. At
California Speedway they would drop to about 12 psi, 4th gear
at about 145 on
the front straight.
Jim Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 13:49:54
-0600
From: Jarrod Proctor <
jproctor@alfalight.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Sticking hydraulic lifter
Does anyone know of anything that would
free up a sticking lifter without
the expense of an engine strip down?
I
bought the car one owner from new, very well maintained (full
service
history) but high mileage. After about 4 months it sounds like one
lifter
has begun to stick intermittently (Normally if you leave it to idle
for a
minute or two). It tends to be worse when the engine is hot.
Any
inspiration welcomed.
Jarrod
Dodge Stealth 1994
(250,000km)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 17:06:12
-0500
From: "B Koditek" <
koditek@attbi.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Tire/Wheel/Brake Upgrades
I am looking to
install further & substantial Staged Upgrades to a 1st
gen vr4 for street
use only, but want to start from the bottom up (i.e.,
tires, wheels, brakes,
suspension, etc.) with the best available equip.
>From reading the Team 3S
List replies, it appears to me that the wheel size
may be dependent upon what
brakes are installed, since the stock wheels
(17") will not accomodate the
larger disks of the best brakes available.
What are the best brakes available
for my purpose; what size wheels are the
necessary/best (including possible
lowering of suspension/offsets, etc.),
and what are the best tires for
regular road use (not used in winter/snow).
I am sure some
of you know what is the "hot" set up (cost no object), and
do I need to get
involved (and to what detail) with suspension upgrades for
upgrade
modifications to tires/wheels/brakes? If so, what are my
options/what
is the best that can be done for street use? Thanks for
all
input/suggestions supplied.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 17:16:05
-0500
From: Russ Williams <
3000gt@wildweaselweb.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Maximum Wheel/Tire Size for 1995 3000GT GT?
I currently have 15"
ICW Racing Rims on my 1995 3000GT GT and am
looking to get larger
ones. Does anyone know how large I can go and
if there are any nice
looking 10-Spoke Rims out there that would be
compatible with my
car?
Thanks,
Russ Williams
Smithsburg, MD
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 17:24:35
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Maximum Wheel/Tire Size for 1995 3000GT GT?
Hey what do ya
know another Russ on the list :) Russ there a few
options
out there I would recommend check our faq pages and also try Discount
Tire
Direct or Tire Rack. I personally recommend DTD due to their
generally
better pricing and the fact that we are fortunate enough to have
one of
their employees as a fellow 3s enthusiast.
Russ
F
CT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 16:28:08
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Maximum Wheel/Tire Size for 1995 3000GT GT?
16" is common, as is
17 and 18"... 19" and 20" also will fit, 19" quite
easily assuming
proper tire sizing...
17" is by far most popular due to price and
flexibility... It looks
good too...
Read my article here:
http://www.team3s.com/FAQplussizing.htmAnd
check out
www.tires.com and
www.tirerack.com for the best
selection
from reputable companies... Both will let you show what the
wheels
would look like on your car...
- -Cody
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Russ Williams
Sent: Monday,
March 31, 2003 4:16 PM
To:
Team3S@team3s.comSubject: Team3S:
Maximum Wheel/Tire Size for 1995 3000GT GT?
I currently have 15" ICW
Racing Rims on my 1995 3000GT GT and am
looking to get larger ones.
Does anyone know how large I can go and
if there are any nice looking
10-Spoke Rims out there that would be
compatible with my
car?
Thanks,
Russ Williams
Smithsburg, MD
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 16:49:05
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tire/Wheel/Brake Upgrades
So why would you want to upgrade
the car if you are only contemplating street use? Most everything that you
are going to consider for upgrades is going to compromise the comfort and
"steetability" of the car. For example, upgraded brake pads are going to
stop faster, but likely will have more dusting and squeaking than stock
pads. A boost controller is likely to compromise gas mileage.
Stiffer suspension components are going to make the ride unpleasant on bumpy
streets. Lowering the car is going to make it more susceptible to
potholes.
Not want to throw cold water on you, but it's worth considering
what your purpose is before going down the modification path. Some people
engage in modifications just to satisfy their curiousity about the car, as a
vehicle for learning. There are a large number of owners who are
interested in modifying the car for appearance only, and this is okay,
too.
Chuck Willis
- -----Original
Message-----
From: B Koditek [mailto:koditek@attbi.com]
Sent: Monday,
March 31, 2003 4:06 PM
To:
Team3S@team3s.comCc: Bob @
work
Subject: Team3S: Tire/Wheel/Brake
Upgrades
I am looking to install further
& substantial Staged Upgrades to a 1st
gen vr4 for street use
only
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 16:13:14
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Sticking hydraulic lifter
A quart of transmission fluid added to the oil
and left to idle for 10 to 20
minutes seems pretty effective. You need to
drain a quart of oil out first
and you don't want to put a load on the engine
with the trans fluid in the
car. You can rev the engine up to 3000 rpm a
occasionally then just
change oil as you normally would.
In the case
of a badly stuck lifter I've even driven the car around under
light load for
10 miles or so.
If you're sure it's a lifter it can be replaced without
tearing the heads apart.
There is a procedure in the manual for changing
lifters.
Jim
Berry
===============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Jarrod Proctor" <
jproctor@alfalight.com>
>
Does anyone know of anything that would free up a sticking lifter
without
> the expense of an engine strip down?
> I bought the car
one owner from new, very well maintained (full service
> history) but high
mileage. After about 4 months it sounds like one lifter
> has begun to
stick intermittently (Normally if you leave it to idle for a
> minute or
two). It tends to be worse when the engine is hot.
>
> Any
inspiration welcomed.
> Jarrod
> Dodge Stealth 1994
(250,000km)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 17:27:21
-0700
From: "Curtis McConnell" <
Curtis.McConnell@pulte.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Sticking hydraulic lifter
Do you run the tranny fluid until
the next oil change or is it drained
immediately?
Curtis
McConnell
1995 Vr-4 Spyder
- -----Original Message-----
From:
fastmax [mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
Sent: Monday, March 31, 2003 5:13 PM
To:
Jarrod Proctor;
Team3S@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Sticking hydraulic lifter
A quart of transmission fluid added to the oil
and left to idle for 10
to 20
minutes seems pretty effective. You need to
drain a quart of oil out
first
and you don't want to put a load on the
engine with the trans fluid in
the
car. You can rev the engine up to 3000
rpm a occasionally then just
change oil as you normally would.
In the
case of a badly stuck lifter I've even driven the car around
under
light
load for 10 miles or so.
If you're sure it's a lifter it can be replaced
without tearing the
heads apart.
There is a procedure in the manual for
changing lifters.
Jim
Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 16:45:55
-0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: AutoX Track Report (w/pics and video)
Finished up my track report
from the BSCC spring Autocross school that was
held on March 16th...
details, pictures, and video can be found on my
website here:
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/DrivingStuff/BR20030316/intro.htmlIt
was absolutely a blast, and I'm really enjoying the way I currently have
the
car set up. I can't wait to get out to PRI or PIR soon for a track
day.
Some excerpted comments from the web page, if you'd just rather read
text:
Anti-sway Bars:
- ---------------
The car really doesn't lean
much in the corners anymore (at least compared
to the stock suspension) and
is much more controllable at the edge of
traction. The car is much more
neutral at all speeds I encountered (< 55mph)
at the school. The handling
oval was especially telling as I could correct
slight oversteer through mild
throttle application and the car did not plow
at all when I slightly
overcooked the corners occasionally. In fact, the
ONLY time the car plowed at
all during the day, was at the 15mph hairpin
turnarounds at the ends of the
slalom stations. And even then, if the car
started to understeer, I could
ease up on the steering input and either
maintain of slightly reduce the
throttle to make the car would stop plowing
and do what I wanted it to. I
suppose some of this could be attributed to my
being a better driver since I
last hit the track (I'm so punny), but I don't
think I'm gonna claim that.
One last thing that I noticed to be a big
difference with the upgraded sway
bars is the transition between sticking
and sliding. It used to be a rather
abrupt change, often associated with
shaking/vibration as the tires
alternated between having grip and not having
grip. Now, it's a much
smoother, more gradual change, and the car feels much
more predictable and
controllable at the edge of traction.
Gauges:
- -------
My new
Defi-link Display Unit was an excellent addition to the car. Its peak
hold
features were very useful for monitoring how the car was performing,
and also
for how I was improving (peak speed). The digital speed readout was
generally
visible in the video footage, so you can easily see if I was
faster during
one session vs. another. My oil temps hit 110C, compared to
the highest I've
seen them on the street (3rd gear WOT up a hill) of 105C.
However, water
temps peaked at 98C, so I don't think I had any cooling
issues. EGTs were
well under control, as they stayed below 650C in the
downpipe (right after
each turbo), probably due to the 50F ambient
temperature and the
water/alcohol injection. Oil pressure was at or above
1.1kg/cm^2 at all
times, even at idle and when oil temps approached 110C.
Enjoy!
-
--Erik
'95 VR-4
www.team3s.com/~egrossTrack
report from Kitsap Kup XXIII Event 1 (3/23) coming soon...
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 16:41:39
-0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Sticking hydraulic lifter
As a first try I would just let it idle for 20
minutes with the occational revving
of the motor then changing the oil
immediatly. Warning --- the trans fluid
will thin the oil so when removing
the drain the oil will come out much
faster.
Jim
Berry
===============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Curtis McConnell" <
Curtis.McConnell@pulte.com>
Do
you run the tranny fluid until the next oil change or is it
drained
immediately?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 20:02:15
-0500
From: "anthonymelillo" <
anthonymelillo@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: page for model specs
Sometime ago I had come across a web page
that would list the specifications for the model 3000GT when you entered some
info, like
the model and year.
Has anyone seen this and could you tell
me the URL ?
The help will be greatly appreciated.
We are soon to
become a two 3000GT family as my brother just put a deposit on a 1995 VR-4 and I
have my awesome 1997 VR-4.
Thanks
Anthony Melillo
1997 VR-4,
Firestorm Red
http://home.sprintmail.com/~anthonymelillo/3000gt.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 21:17:20
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: page for model specs
One site is Dave Black's page. Not
sure of others.
http://www.daveblack.net/asp/3SiSpecs.asp-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: anthonymelillo
Sent:
Monday, March 31, 2003 20:02
Sometime ago I had come across a web page
that would list the specifications
for the model 3000GT when you entered some
info, like the model and year.
Has anyone seen this and could you tell me
the URL ?
The help will be greatly appreciated.
We are soon to
become a two 3000GT family as my brother just put a deposit
on a 1995 VR-4
and I have my awesome 1997 VR-4.
Thanks
Anthony Melillo
1997 VR-4,
Firestorm Red
http://home.sprintmail.com/~anthonymelillo/3000gt.htm***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 21:54:59
-0500
From: "Bobby Brown" <
bobbybrown@direcway.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Tein HA Suspension
Vie been watching the emails for about a week
now as requested prior to any
inquires. I have not seen anything on the
question I am about to ask so
here goes. I am getting ready to lower my
car because I have purchased low
profile tires and of course the space
between the tire and chassis is more
than I want. Should I go with the
Tein HA suspension or the Ground Control
Coil over? A stiff ride is not
that big of a deal to me. Any suggestion
would be greatly
appreciated.
Bobby Brown
98 3000GT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 22:01:16
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tein HA Suspension
What size tires did you purchase?
-
-Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Bobby Brown
Sent: Monday,
March 31, 2003 8:55 PM
To:
Team3S@team3s.comSubject: Team3S: Tein
HA Suspension
Vie been watching the emails for about a week now as
requested prior to
any
inquires. I have not seen anything on the
question I am about to ask so
here goes. I am getting ready to lower my
car because I have purchased
low
profile tires and of course the space
between the tire and chassis is
more
than I want. Should I go with
the Tein HA suspension or the Ground
Control
Coil over? A stiff ride
is not that big of a deal to me. Any suggestion
would be greatly
appreciated.
Bobby Brown
98 3000GT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 00:56:00
-0600
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth (UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: Team3S: New
wheels!!! Wahoo!!
Well, after much deliberation and time brooding on
which wheel is better than which wheel, and after driving around on crappy azz
tires since I've owned the car, I finally perked up and got me a set of new
wheels! They're Eagle 168's, 17x9 23mm offset. I know I got some feedback saying
that 23mm wasn't a good offset, but after hearing that people have been running
on 25mm spacers on their stock wheels, I knew it would work. Anyways, if anyone
wants to take a peek, here's the addresses. Thanks to all who put in feedback,
and for those out there still on the fence about wheels, maybe this will help! I
love my car, I just have to ogle at it every time I walk by it now... Gotta love
Team3S... =0)
-b
P.S. If you look you can also see
my newly installed '99 corners, no problems there!
http://web.umr.edu/~bwish/000_0220.jpghttp://web.umr.edu/~bwish/000_0221.JPGhttp://web.umr.edu/~bwish/000_0222.JPGhttp://web.umr.edu/~bwish/000_0223.JPGhttp://web.umr.edu/~bwish/000_0225.JPG***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 14:05:25
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: OT: Thunderhill HPDE April 5&6 - Big Team3S 'Gathering'!
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Elferdink" <
macintosh@sunra.com>
>
Forrest:
> I was just about to sign up for this weekend but the online
registration
says the price is $299, not $286. How do I go about signing up
as part of the
"5 for the price of 4" deal?
> Many thanks!
>
--Jim
- ---------------------------->
The "5-for-4" discount prices
were unpublished - they are specifically for
Team3S since we're a
"NASA-Sanctioned" group. Michael already got money back,
since there
was an early signup discount of $20 (published). But you'll have
to pay
the full price, then NASA will send each person a rebate check after
I
provide them with a list of Team3S people on Monday. I'll do the math
for
them, and they'll send out the checks. If there are even multiples
of 5
people signed up, your best price will be ~$235; for uneven
numbers, say 9
people, the most you'll pay is ~$265. I'll figure it out
with the NASA
accountant lady, and make sure that each of you get your
rebate.
We've got well over a dozen people coming, 6- 3000GTs and 4-
Stealths, but
some are just coming to check us out - and glom free rides as
passengers with
the rest of us who are
participating... ;-)
It's not too late to sign up, folks!
www.nasaproracing.comBest,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V2
#119
***************************************
