Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, March 31
2003 Volume 02 : Number
118
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 30 Mar 2003 10:21:35 -0600
From: Jarrod Proctor <
jproctor@alfalight.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Electric window problems
Dodge Stealth RT 94 model.
Does
anyone know common faults for electric windows. My drivers side
window
stopped working (fortunately it's in the up position). On the back of
the
drivers side switch is a comparator IC but there is no supply voltage to
it.
Is this normal ?
Is the PCB anything to do with the windows or is
this for the central
locking ?
Can anyone send me the part of the circuit
diagram that relates to the
electric windows.
How do they work, ie are
there external limit switches/ torque detection
internally in the motor/
slipping clutch ?
Is the motor grounded through the case and you simply
apply 12v to either
the up or the down wires?
Are the switches the likely
cause ?
Any help would be of
use.
Thanks
Jarrod
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 11:50:51
-0500
From: "Marven Lamarre" <
neoblackjack21@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 3KGT is dead
Kimberly,
Have you ever had your engine
control computer (ECU) changed. Because I'm
thinking thats the problem,
becuase the same thing used to happen to my
Stealth before I changed my
ECU.
Marven
'92 Dodge Stealth
> [Original Message]
>
From: <
kimbyrd@webtv.net (Kimberly
Byrd)>
> To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Date: 3/30/2003 7:56:24 AM
> Subject: Team3S: 3KGT is dead
>
>
I was driving my 1994 non-turbo 3000GT yesterday. It was running
great,
> but when I pulled up at a stop sign and stopped, it died. I then
pulled
> out and the next time I stopped it died again. I was near
my mechanic's
> shop and when I stopped to turn in there, it died again.
He popped the
> hood and I started it. It idled fine. I had just filled
the tank with
> gas and he put some kind of gas treatment/fuel injector
cleaner in it
> and told me to call him if I needed to be towed in. When I
attempted to
> leave the parking lot, it died again. By the time I left
there, the only
> way to keep it idling was to keep my foot on the gas. If
I let off, it
> would die immediately. He thinks that it could be a dirty
throttle body
> or a vacuum problem. Any other
suggestions?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 10:50:16
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tire choices
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
> I'm just
catching up on this but have had some time to evaluate the Yoko AVS
ES100
tires for the last two weeks. I highly recommend them. I was
skeptical
at first but have "seen the light" so to speak.
-
---------------snip-------------->
> The Yoko has a treadwear of 280
(realizing that not all mfg ratings are
equal) but it performs as if it is a
softer compound than that.
- ---"Flash"
-
---------------snip-------------->
People used to swear by the Yoko
AVS Intermediate until they were discontinued
in 2000. They were the
best street tire I ever drove on, even surpassing my
(fave) Nitto Extreme
Performance 450's (on the street *and* on the track).
None of the other
offerings by Yokohama even came close, and many (of us)
wrote to them asking
for the Intermediate to be reissued. It appears that
they were
listening, since in Flash's (excellent) review of the Yoko AVS
ES100's, they
sound like they perform just like the Intermediates used to. ET
tried
the ES100's on a friend's VR-4 at Thunderhill, and although they
were
slippery the first lap (she dropped two wheels off the track in turn
14), they
warmed up quickly. By the last lap, she was taking turn 1 (an
high-speed
dogleg left) at 80+ mph, and they didn't even squeal. I'm
just echoing
Darren's eval of these tires - they sound like a good choice,
IMO, and I'll be
trying them out myself at Thunderhill next weekend - again
on Bob W's '93
VR-4... Kudos to Cody and Flash for giving us all some
good info about this
new offering from Yokohama.
-
---Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 13:31:06
-0600
From: "Steve" <
denon11@insightbb.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Electric window problems
To test the integrity of the window
motor
You need to apply 12 volts to the motor its self
bypassing all other
circuits.
Then you need to unplug the connecter and check for
proper
voltage.
Note: The voltage is only applied to the motor when the
ignition
is in the acc or on position.
Also check the wire harness that plugs into the
door.
AS this is a know problem for the wire to break in the loom.
I think
it is the brown wire that supplies voltage to the switch.
If you need a wire
diagram I can send it to you off list
I doubt that the motor is bad.
You
can also clean the power window switch but this will require
that you take
the switch apart and clean the contacts.
If you have never done this before I
would recommend that you
have someone help you that has done this
before.
Regards, Steve
1995 artic White 3000gt N/A
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Jarrod Proctor
Sent: Sunday,
March 30, 2003 10:22 AM
To:
'Team3S@Team3S.com'Subject: Team3S:
Electric window problems
Dodge Stealth RT 94 model.
Does anyone know
common faults for electric windows. My drivers side window
stopped working
(fortunately it's in the up position). On the back of the
drivers side switch
is a comparator IC but there is no supply voltage to it.
Is this normal
?
Is the PCB anything to do with the windows or is this for the
central
locking ?
Can anyone send me the part of the circuit diagram that
relates to the
electric windows.
How do they work, ie are there external
limit switches/ torque detection
internally in the motor/ slipping clutch
?
Is the motor grounded through the case and you simply apply 12v to
either
the up or the down wires?
Are the switches the likely cause
?
Any help would be of use.
Thanks
Jarrod
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 14:05:24
-0600
From: "Steve" <
denon11@insightbb.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 3KGT is dead
I don't think you have a vacuum problem
But
to be on the safe side you can check
your manifold vacuum presser.
You
need to check your throttle position sensor.
If you do or don't have cruse
control check the solenoid
on throttle Control actuator this is the big box
where all the
throttle cables go to. It is on the drivers side right
by
the strut tower.
I could go on and on there is so many thing to
check.
Regards, Steve
1995 Artic White 3000GT
N/A
Marven
'92 Dodge Stealth
> [Original Message]
>
From: <
kimbyrd@webtv.net (Kimberly
Byrd)>
> To: <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Date: 3/30/2003 7:56:24 AM
> Subject: Team3S: 3KGT is dead
>
>
I was driving my 1994 non-turbo 3000GT yesterday. It was running
great,
> but when I pulled up at a stop sign and stopped, it died. I then
pulled
> out and the next time I stopped it died again. I was near
my mechanic's
> shop and when I stopped to turn in there, it died again.
He popped the
> hood and I started it. It idled fine. I had just filled
the tank with
> gas and he put some kind of gas treatment/fuel injector
cleaner in it
> and told me to call him if I needed to be towed in. When I
attempted to
> leave the parking lot, it died again. By the time I left
there, the only
> way to keep it idling was to keep my foot on the gas. If
I let off, it
> would die immediately. He thinks that it could be a dirty
throttle body
> or a vacuum problem. Any other
suggestions?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 14:22:17
-0600
From: Slayton Shaw <
scshaw2@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 3KGT-Stealth artwork - 94-99 - complete listing!
Here is the
complete list of ad artwork.
Notice that I've included two Stealth images
for 1994, one the base
model and the other the turbo (sorry do not have any
earlier models).
These are the original filenames as supplied by Mitsubishi
and Dodge.
On some of them you can usually decipher which model is featured
and on
others you just have to download the file to tell.
www.Team3S.com/Images/94bw-MIT30001.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/94bw-MIT30002.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/94bw-MIT30003.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/94bw-MIT30004.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/94bw-MIT30005.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/94bw-MIT30006.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/94bw-MIT3000G.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/94bw-Stealth1.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/94bw-Sealth2.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/95bw-3000GT.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/95bw-3000GTPR.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/95bw-3000GTS1.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/95bw-3000GTSL.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/95bw-3000GTV1.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/95bw-3000GTV2.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/95bw-3000GTVR.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/96bw-GTSL.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/96bw-GTSLPRP.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/96bw-GTVR4.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/96bw-GTVR4A.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/96bw-GTVR4PRP.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/97bw-3000GT.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/97bw-M30GT.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/97bw-M30GTA.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/97bw-MGTSL.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/97bw-MGTSL3.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/97bw-MGTVR.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/97bw-MGTVR3.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/97col-M30GT.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/97col-MGTVR.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/98bw-M30GT.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/98bw-M30GTA.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/98bw-M3GSL.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/98bw-M3GSLA.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/98bw-M3GTB.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/98bw-M3GTBA.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/98bw-M3GVR.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/98bw-M3GVRA.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/98col-GTVRC4.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/98col-GTVRC4A.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/99bw-M30GT.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/99bw-M30GTA.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/99bw-M3GTS.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/99bw-M3GTSA.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/99bw-M3GTV.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/99bw-M3GTVA.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/99col-M3000.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/99col-M3VR4.jpg***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 12:21:42
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 3KGT is dead
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Kimberly
Byrd" <
kimbyrd@webtv.net>
> I
was driving my 1994 non-turbo 3000GT yesterday. It was running great,
but
when I pulled up at a stop sign and stopped, it died. I then pulled out
and
the next time I stopped it died again. I was near my mechanic's
shop and when
I stopped to turn in there, it died again. He popped
the
hood and I started it. It idled fine. I had just filled the tank
with gas and
he put some kind of gas treatment/fuel injector cleaner in it
and told me to
call him if I needed to be towed in. When I attempted to leave
the parking
lot, it died again. By the time I left there, the only way to
keep it idling
was to keep my foot on the gas. If I let off, it would die
immediately. He
thinks that it could be a dirty throttle body or a vacuum
problem. Any other
suggestions?
-
---------------------------------
You should try to run the car (in
neutral, with no load on the engine) for
10-15 minutes at high-rpm.
Vary it for a minute at 4000, then a minute at
5000, then a minute at 3000,
and repeat - you get the idea. In between, rev
it to almost redline
with a couple of throttle blips (do NOT do this if the
engine sounds strange
in any way). If there was serious fouling in the
injectors, it can
occasionally get worse before it gets better, since
dislodging gunk can
temporarily clog a fouled injector. But the cleaner
should eventually
clear it out. Water in the gas line, dirty injectors or
throttle body,
vacuum problem, ECU are all possibilities, so you should try to
test and
eliminate them one at a time. Running a tankful of gas with
cleaner
will usually solve the problem in a few hundred miles, but you
should
experience less sputtering right after running it at varying
rpms. If not, it
may be more serious, but give it a little time -
unless the engine sounds
*strange* to you.
Best,
-
---Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 15:23:45
-0500
From: Dennis Ninneman <
dninneman@comcast.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 3KGT ads - full URLs - updated list
Hats off to all
involved. Granted there were no black VR4's (a pity),
but I did mail
the red ones to my son tso he can continue to feel bad
about selling his red
'94 VR4! Another reason this board is so good.
Dennis -==-
Philly
Slayton Shaw wrote:
> This is the latest on the file
locations - thanks to the admin guys at
> Team3S for making this work so
well.
>
> The images in color are RGB converted from CMYK. The "bw"
images are
> 100 KB to 460 KB in size. The "col" images are 0.5 MB to 2 MB
in size.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 16:36:31
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tire choices
Bob - Glad to know I can take these Yoko AVS ES100
tires from the street to
the track when we have some of those impromptu "open
track days" at the
nearby course. I'll have to do that and report on
them. I am especially
lucky today. No other time can I remember
having the summer tires mounted
and being able to test in 80 degree temps on
dry roads and then two days
later have the opportunity to test on the same
roads in 30 degree temps and
snow-dusted and damp conditions. What an
opportunity.
I'll report later as I get to test them on Pittsburgh's
version of San
Fran's Lumbar Street. It is called Blackburn Road and if
you are from this
area then you know of the road (it ends right in a small
affluent town where
luckily there is a Porsche/Audi/BMW dealer as well as an
Aston Martin spot,
Range Rover, and Rolls Royce I think - but it has long
been the test drive
road for anybody taking a car off of the Porsche/Audi/BMW
lot - for obvious
reasons).
One more note on these tires - I saw this
in an ad in Automobile and only
read it since I just bought a set of
them. But they have what is called
"rim protecting bead" or
something. The tire's sidewall is not flat in the
vertical plane but it
has a rib or bead that is in the middle of the
sidewall and protects the
wheel from a gentle rub with a curb when parallel
parking. Obviously,
if you hit the curb at 3 mph at an angle of 30 degrees
then the tire will
deflect and scratch a rim; however, if you creep in
slowly then you can
feel/hear the tire rub the curb and then steer away and
this is enough to
save the wheel from the small incidental scratches from
curbs. A very
nice feature that I was not aware of when choosing tires.
And yes, it does
work (I'll say I just *had* to try it out to make sure but
actually I
couldn't reach the ticket machine at the turnpike toll booth so I
pulled
closer and felt the tire rub the curb and after inspection noticed
the tire
was rubbed but not the wheel - perfect).
- --Flash!
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Forrest [mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2003 13:50
It appears that they were
listening, since in Flash's (excellent) review of
the Yoko AVS ES100's, they
sound like they perform just like the
Intermediates used to.
<snip> I'm just echoing Darren's eval of these tires
- - they sound
like a good choice, IMO, <snip> Kudos to Cody and Flash
for
giving us all some good info about this new offering from
Yokohama.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 15:56:22
-0600
From: Slayton Shaw <
scshaw2@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Corrected 3KGT-Stealth artwork - 94-99 - complete listing!
Sorry
- I misspelled Stealth in the original post on the second image.
www.Team3S.com/Images/94bw-MIT30001.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/94bw-MIT30002.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/94bw-MIT30003.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/94bw-MIT30004.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/94bw-MIT30005.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/94bw-MIT30006.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/94bw-MIT3000G.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/94bw-Stealth1.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/94bw-Stealth2.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/95bw-3000GT.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/95bw-3000GTPR.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/95bw-3000GTS1.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/95bw-3000GTSL.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/95bw-3000GTV1.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/95bw-3000GTV2.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/95bw-3000GTVR.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/96bw-GTSL.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/96bw-GTSLPRP.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/96bw-GTVR4.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/96bw-GTVR4A.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/96bw-GTVR4PRP.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/97bw-3000GT.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/97bw-M30GT.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/97bw-M30GTA.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/97bw-MGTSL.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/97bw-MGTSL3.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/97bw-MGTVR.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/97bw-MGTVR3.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/97col-M30GT.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/97col-MGTVR.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/98bw-M30GT.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/98bw-M30GTA.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/98bw-M3GSL.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/98bw-M3GSLA.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/98bw-M3GTB.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/98bw-M3GTBA.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/98bw-M3GVR.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/98bw-M3GVRA.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/98col-GTVRC4.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/98col-GTVRC4A.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/99bw-M30GT.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/99bw-M30GTA.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/99bw-M3GTS.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/99bw-M3GTSA.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/99bw-M3GTV.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/99bw-M3GTVA.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/99col-M3000.jpgwww.Team3S.com/Images/99col-M3VR4.jpg***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 16:58:01
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tire choices
That would be "Lombard" Street and not "Lumbar"
Street. Darn smellchecker
anyway. =)
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Darren Schilberg [mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Sent:
Sunday, March 30, 2003 16:37
I'll report later as I get to test them on
Pittsburgh's version of San
Fran's Lumbar Street.
<snip>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 23:13:31
-0500
From: Michael Tanenbaum <
gtg509d@mail.gatech.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: wiring for TPS
Hi,
Thank you again for the
advice. I was under the impression that the mechanic
checked these
parameters (voltages, resistances, continuity) - but I don't know
for sure -
so I'm starting to check them myself (sorry it took so long). I
measured resistance and voltage at the TPS, and I hope to get to the ECU
today
or tomorrow (the ECU is rebuilt - and I switched it out for another
rebuilt one
already to see if the first one was the problem). Here are
the
resistance/voltage in Ohms/Volts in the four slots at the plug at the
TPS:
1) 0.7 / 0.07
2) no reading / 4.65
3) 6.0 /
0.04
4) 731 / 5.03
Is there anything to deduce from this
yet? I will get the other information
shortly. Thank you
again.
Michael
>there is a check engine light pointing to the
TPS. Switched
out the TPS, but still didn't fix it. Mechanic
said he wasn't getting good
readings at the TPS (I think with a
voltmeter). He says the harness is bad.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 22:55:35
-0600
From: "Dan Hyde" <
danielhyde@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Rear turbo housing gets cherry red when I run it hard
I am
serving as a 'proxy' of sorts for another VR4 owner. I have quickly
reached
an end to what I could suggest to help him.
Has anyone else ever heard of the
following before? Quote: "rear turbo
housing gets cherry red when I run it
hard"
He is running DR500 turbos
Please reference the bottom of this
post. If anyone has suggestions I'll
forward the responses.
Weird....
Thanks
Dan
97VR4
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: <
Reinman25@aol.com>
To: <
danielhyde@attbi.com>
Sent: Sunday,
March 30, 2003 10:35 PM
Subject: Re: vr 4 question
thank you for your
quick reply. I just had my turbos upgraded to the DR
500s
and I had
the oil lines replaced. I had the pre-cats checked to see if they
were gutted
and they are. What do you think now?
thanks
sergio.
p.s. if you
get a chance to ask someone, please let me know
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Dan Hyde" <
danielhyde@attbi.com>
To: <
Reinman25@aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, March
30, 2003 10:29 PM
Subject: Re: vr 4 question
Sergio
I have
never heard anyone mention a problem symptom like this and I've
been
monitoring all the TEAM3S technical traffic for well over a year
now.
I'm not an expert by any stretch but it strikes me that you might have
a
nearly seized turbo. It's a wonder it's not also making some noise.
I'd
suspect an oil line flow problem. I can't conceive that pure
exhaust gas
temps could not cause this.
Good luck
Dan
-
----- Original Message -----
From: <
Reinman25@aol.com>
To: <
danielhyde@attbi.com>
Sent: Sunday,
March 30, 2003 10:07 PM
Subject: vr 4 question
would you be willing to
help me out with my car? I am having a problem that
I can't figure
out. For some unknown reason my rear turbo housing gets
cherry red when
I run it hard, can you tell me why or give me some direction
into how to fix
it?
thanks
sergio
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 22:52:58
-0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rear turbo housing gets cherry red when I run it
hard
Cuz..thats what turbos do?
cuz..its really
rich?
cuz..its really lean?
all 3 are correct. We'll need to
know a lot more, to hellp.
what is "running it hard", what other
mods?
On Sun, 30 Mar 2003, Dan Hyde wrote:
> I am serving as a
'proxy' of sorts for another VR4 owner. I have quickly
> reached an end to
what I could suggest to help him.
> Has anyone else ever heard of the
following before? Quote: "rear turbo
> housing gets cherry red when I run
it hard"
> He is running DR500 turbos
>
> Please reference
the bottom of this post. If anyone has suggestions I'll
>
forward the responses. Weird....
>
> Thanks
>
Dan
> 97VR4
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
<
Reinman25@aol.com>
> To:
<
danielhyde@attbi.com>
>
Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2003 10:35 PM
> Subject: Re: vr 4 question
>
thank you for your quick reply. I just had my turbos upgraded to the
DR
> 500s
> and I had the oil lines replaced. I had the pre-cats
checked to see if they
> were gutted and they are. What do you think
now?
> thanks
> sergio.
> p.s. if you get a chance to ask
someone, please let me know
>
> ----- Original Message
-----
> From: "Dan Hyde" <
danielhyde@attbi.com>
> To:
<
Reinman25@aol.com>
> Sent:
Sunday, March 30, 2003 10:29 PM
> Subject: Re: vr 4 question
>
> Sergio
>
> I have never heard anyone mention a problem
symptom like this and I've been
> monitoring all the TEAM3S technical
traffic for well over a year now.
> I'm not an expert by any stretch but
it strikes me that you might have a
> nearly seized turbo. It's a wonder
it's not also making some noise. I'd
> suspect an oil line flow
problem. I can't conceive that pure exhaust gas
> temps could not
cause this.
>
> Good luck
> Dan
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 23:56:12
-0600
From: "Dan Hyde" <
danielhyde@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rear turbo housing gets cherry red when I run it hard
>For
some unknown reason my rear turbo housing gets
> cherry red when I run it
hard, can you tell me why or give me some
direction
> into how to fix
it?
ADDITIONAL DATA POINTS BELOW
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: <
Reinman25@aol.com>
To: <
danielhyde@attbi.com>
Sent: Sunday,
March 30, 2003 11:32 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear turbo housing gets cherry
red when I run it hard
These are the mods I currently have:
Bitz
DSBC-DC
gutted pre-cats
custom downpipe
3" exhaust with borla
muffler
dr 500s
denso fuel pump
intake with heatshield
unorthodox
underdrive racing pulley
RPS stage III racing clutch
Its a 1992
VR-4 I live in Mission tx, which is in south texas humidity is
like 99%
during the summer live about 1 hour from the beach which most
people
have
heard of (south padre Island) I run on 93 octane from exxon only
and
no fuel managment systems. I am running 9, 11, and 14 psi respectively
in
the
three channels that the dsbc offers. when I go WOT the car
takes up to
about
3k rpms to pull really hard on the 14psi but its like a
start and stop kind
of action, don't know if that is normal or not.
any
other information that you need to help me diagnose my problem, just ask
me
please.
thanks
sergio
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 23:20:59
-0800
From: "dakken" <
dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rear turbo housing gets cherry red when I run it hard
What
would really help is A/F readings or at least O2 sensor
voltage
readings.
Doug
92 Stealth RT TT
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 02:32:49
-0600
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Doing 120K, should I change Oil Pump?
I'm pretty sure you
have to drop the oilpan to get the front case and
oilpump assembly off, but
it might be worth the effort!
offtopic, those 3kgt ad material scans...
holy cow, I want a stealth rt/tt
or 3000gtvr4 bad right now (again), anyone
want to trade a 97 Talon AWD with
16g, and ~27k miles? Black :)
Vinny
Singh -
http://www.manualcd.com/ -
Service Manuals on CD for your DSM or 3/S!
http://kaizen.eaglecars.com/>
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 10:30:19 -0500
> From: "Walter D. Best" <
wdb039@erols.com>
> Subject: Team3S:
Doing 120K, should I change Oil Pump?
>
> I am getting ready to do
the 120K service, water pump and timing belt, and
> it was recommended by
a friend that it might not be too bad of an idea to
> change out the oil
pump (rotors), since it's in the same general area.
What
> do you guys
think?
>
> And by looking at the engine manual it doesn't seem to be
too hard to do,
I
> was planning on replacing the oil pump gasket,
inner and outer rotors and
> crankshaft gasket , would I need anything
else, maybe the relief spring?
>
> Is it harder to do than it
appears in the engine manual, is it even worth
> it?
>
>
Thanks,
>
> Dave Best
>
http://www.gofastgoodies.com/ for
custom polished and powder coated spark
> plug plates, plenums and valve
covers.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 05:02:22
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Yoko AVS ES100 tire report
(Subject was "RE: Team3S: Tire
choices")
Okay, the cold weather dry condition tests have been completed
on the
Yokohama AVS ES100 tires and the results are good. I was able to
finally
get the car to oversteer in a turn (90-right to an Interstate
entrance ramp)
but not too many tires would be able to hang on in a turn with
the ambient
temperature around 35 degrees F and experiencing 15 psi in 2nd
gear around
4,000 RPM so I don't think that is a bad score for these
tires.
They might track a little in the road but I attribute that to
their new
tread instead of a tire that has been through 20k miles and has
much more
shorter tread blocks. After a 20-mile drive the wheels were
still stone
cold (after some spirited driving a few miles before stopping)
and the front
tires were slightly warm to the touch (on the tread area) but
the rear tires
were hardly warm. Certainly easy to tell when ambient is
30 F and tire
temps are warm to the hand so I'd guess around 100-110 F but
when the
difference in temps is 70 F degrees then it is an easy chore (much
harder in
summer when it is 90 degrees, tires are 120 degrees, and the hand
is 98
degrees).
The front tires warming up and rear tires still
remaining a tad cold
reinforces the fact that the car understeers into turns
(or more to the fact
that it doesn't oversteer) so the rear tires don't see
as much scrubbing as
the front tires do. Since the tires are still new
I can note that the
scrubbing on the front tires is just touching the top of
the wear triangles
around the outside shoulder of the tires - a sign of
proper inflation to the
type of driving performed or course being
driven. I took some corners very
aggressively for "data gathering" and
either felt the AWD "enabling" or the
tires sort of plowing along the
ground. I'm not sure which but man do these
cars hug the
road.
On the return trip (tires were now at the ambient temp of 22 F) a
traffic
light start (slightly less aggressive than a drag strip launch) did
not get
the tires to lose grip/traction even when the road surface and tires
were
all 22 degrees F. Very nice. A stop on the downward slope of
the hill
(just about impending ABS) left no skid mark, did not squeal any
tire, and
felt quite normal given the temps of everything.
The only
time I was able to get the rear of the car loose and cause
oversteer was on
purpose (downhill, left hand turn, wide sweeper taken very
fast to find the
limit of the tires - under control of course). The car
slid the back
end a little while the front tires were still pulling forward,
halfway
through the slide some countersteer came in to play, then the car
snapped
back into line and then some steering correction the other way kept
it in
line. But again, third gear at 15 psi, 3,500 RPM, not a lot of
tires
will hold that anyway so I don't see this as a mark against
them.
One more ABS-impending stop at the bottom of the hill and the tires
were
hardly warm. The brake pads were starting to stink more than the
tires were
getting warm. Maybe in today's light I can see the new scrub
marks on the
side to see if I have worn past the "wear triangles" or maybe
the cold
inflation is about right.
Note: I tried not to do tests that
were suspension-related since someone
with Ground Control coilovers can
corner better than someone without I
didn't want to do skidpad type tests but
test straight line braking,
acceleration, sweeping turns, short blunt turns,
etc. that would not have
major influences from suspension changes.
-
--Flash!
1995-1/2 VR-4
Rear anti-sway bar and front KYB struts as the only
suspension upgrades
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 09:00:09
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear turbo housing gets cherry red when I run it hard
I would
want to know what boost pressure he's running (in KG or PSI) does he
have
larger injectors and some form of fuel control?
If not then he is running
damn lean and really needs to be careful....
I once did a full third gear
and partial 4th gear pull at 15 psi on my stock
hairdryers. Immediately
pulled into a rest stop (on the MA Pike) and the
manifolds + turbine housings
were glowing a bit (it was 1AM so not too hard
to see).
Russ
F
CT
"The cash cow has arrived, time to go shopping muwahhh"
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Hyde
[mailto:danielhyde@attbi.com]
Sent: Monday, March 31, 2003 12:56 AM
To:
Geoff Mohler; Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear turbo housing gets cherry red
when I run it
hard
>For some unknown reason my rear turbo housing
gets
> cherry red when I run it hard, can you tell me why or give me
some
direction
> into how to fix it?
ADDITIONAL DATA POINTS
BELOW
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
Reinman25@aol.com>
To: <
danielhyde@attbi.com>
Sent: Sunday,
March 30, 2003 11:32 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear turbo housing gets cherry
red when I run it hard
These are the mods I currently have:
Bitz
DSBC-DC
gutted pre-cats
custom downpipe
3" exhaust with borla
muffler
dr 500s
denso fuel pump
intake with heatshield
unorthodox
underdrive racing pulley
RPS stage III racing clutch
Its a 1992
VR-4 I live in Mission tx, which is in south texas humidity is
like 99%
during the summer live about 1 hour from the beach which most
people
have
heard of (south padre Island) I run on 93 octane from exxon only
and
no fuel managment systems. I am running 9, 11, and 14 psi respectively
in
the
three channels that the dsbc offers. when I go WOT the car
takes up to
about
3k rpms to pull really hard on the 14psi but its like a
start and stop kind
of action, don't know if that is normal or not.
any
other information that you need to help me diagnose my problem, just ask
me
please.
thanks
sergio
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 16:26:36
+0000
From: "gareth hannah" <
alcoholika_02@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Dallas Race Wars
Anyone on this list going to
the Nopi Nationals here in Dallas?
I was hoping to find other people with 3/s
cars to meet up with. I dont know
anyone here with a 3/s car and it would be
alot of fun to cruise down to
Ennis with other people with the same
cars.
Let me know guys!
Thanx
P.s. Who do i send a post to to let them
know i want to attend? Only a
certain amount of space is available right? so
i guess they need an estimate
on how many 3/s cars will be
there..
Gareth
Black 92' RT/TT
"Goin all Black"
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V2
#118
***************************************
