Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, March 25
2003 Volume 02 : Number
113
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 24 Mar 2003 11:53:02 -0500
From: "Ken Lovell" <
wklovell@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Why not two level sensors?
I'm responding in ignorance, but if
that is case, could you build a
sensor by measuring
resistance?
Ken
'97 VR4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Jeff Lucius
Sent: Monday,
March 24, 2003 11:51 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Why not two level sensors?
>> It occurs to me that
if we are dealing with conductive fluids ...
Oil, like gasoline, is *not*
an electrically conductive fluid. This is
why the fuel pump can be immersed
in the gas tank. Oil, like gasoline,
is an electrical insulator with
resistance at the Megohm level (1
million ohms plus).
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
"John Monnin" <
John.Monnin@3si.zzn.com>; <
3sracers@speedtoys.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, March 22, 2003 4:47 PM
Subject: Team3S: Why not two level
sensors?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 16:59:21
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: wiring harness
I have never been a proponent of just
replacing parts to see if that fixes a problem, unless the part is cheap and
easily available. Did anyone actually test the TPS/IPS to see if it was bad?
Anyway, most of the engine harness is one big "piece" that costs about
$600 or so. The harness connection to the TPS can be tested by observing the
voltage levels on the ECU connector terminal associated with the TPS/IPS
movements (use a datalogger, MUT, or voltmeter). If the TPS/IPS itself tests
good (see the service manual for how to test the TPS/IPS resistance) yet the
voltage does not change smoothly and as expected at the ECU (ignition on, engine
off), suspect the harness. But there is no point in replacing the entire
harness. You will have to try to trace the problem to a specific area or length
of harness and rebuild that section. Be sure to closely check all connectors and
grounds (though the TPS/IPS grounds through the ECU).
ECU connector
terminal info:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-ecu94.htmJeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Michael Tanenbaum" <
gtg509d@mail.gatech.edu>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, March 20, 2003 2:11 PM
Subject: Team3S: wiring harness
Hello
all,
How are you? I cannot seem to get my car ('91 Stealth R/T)
totally straight -
I had a problem with the ECU which is now replaced with a
remanufactured one.
Then an error code pointing to the TPS was coming
up. I had the TPS replaced
and that didn't solve it completely.
The mechanic said maybe the harness that
plugs into is bad.
If
you don't mind, I have two questions for you:
1) Does this diagnosis sound
reasonable?
2) Might anyone know where I can get a harness for this one
sensor and not the
whole car? It is a pig-tail type with four
horizontal pins in one row.
Thank you very
much,
Michael
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 08:59:55
-0800
From: "James Mutton" <
james@playstream.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Irridium plugs Denso IK24
I've been Driving on IK24's for several
thousand miles. No spark
blowout yet on out of box gap with stock coils
and Accel wires. No
symptoms of fouling, plugs look great. They're a
great choice if you're
running 14 or so psi of boost. They're fine for
stock boost levels but
you may want to heat them up a bit now and then just
for fun. ;)
- -James
95 Green VR4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Trevor James [mailto:trevorlj@cox.net]
Sent: Sunday,
March 23, 2003 7:21 PM
To: Roger Gerl; Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Irridium plugs Denso IK24
Yes they work great. I actually daily drive
on IK27's. I tried IK31's
but they fouled in 110 miles.
Trevor
96
R/T TT
11.74@118.5 on 94 octane
11.57@119.7 on 100
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To:
"Team3S" <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, March 23, 2003 4:54 PM
Subject: Team3S: Irridium plugs Denso
IK24
> I was asked by a lokal guy if the Denso Irridium IK24 fit
our cars.
Besides
> of the fact that I'm not a big fan of them I simply
could not say yes
> or
no.
> In fact they are two ranges colder
than the stock ones but are they
> still resistor type and does
everything fit like thread and lenghts ??
>
> Thanks, Roger
>
93'&96'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 10:50:09
-0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Plug gap
On Sun, 23 Mar 2003 20:35:09 -0600, "Dan Hyde" <
danielhyde@attbi.com>
wrote:
> The plugs I installed were all pre-gap to 0.040 (1mm).
I was tempted to
> regap to a recommended 0.044 but decided against that
for fear of breaking
> an electrode. My old plugs were NGKPFR6J-11
and nothing unusual looking
> other than they were "worn". At 86K miles, I
had no idea when the last
> service was done - no records existed from the
prior owner.
>
> I am pleased with the change as it runs noticeably
stronger from low-mid
> RPM. That's the best I can do to describe
behavior. It is possible any new
> plugs would have yielded the same
result.
Where have you seen the recommended gap be set at 0.044"? I'm
running that
wide of a gap currently and had questions as to whether or not
it was the
cause of hesitation at around 4,500rpm under WOT.
My fuel
mileage has been unbelievably good (28-29mpg highway) and
the
hesitation/stutter is absent below and above that rpm. Nor is there
a
noticeable hesitation if I'm not flooring it, WOT.
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 12:52:04
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: Team3S:
RE: 3S-Racers: Re: Looking for low oil LEVEL sensor that could beadapted
to transfer case
How about a sensor like the brake light?
I think
they work on impedance, detecting fluid between plates.
Just need to
determine if there is room to mount.
Kurt
- -----Original
Message-----
From: John Monnin [mailto:John.Monnin@3si.zzn.com]
Sent:
Saturday, March 22, 2003 12:07 PM
To:
3sracers@speedtoys.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
3S-Racers: Re: Looking for low oil LEVEL sensor that could
beadapted to
transfer case
Thanks Phillip:
Somehow I knew this thread would get
your attention.
I agree a float type sensor will probably not work unless
a transfer
case was modified to have an additional sump. A separate
reservoir
attached by hard lines to the oil drain hole in the bottom of the
case and to the fill hole in the side would create additional volume
of
oil and provide a calm environment for a float level sensor. I
don't
like this idea because more connections just mean more
locations to leak
from and I have to find room to put a reservoir at
the same level as the
transfer case.
Some of the sensors I have seen are pressure transducers,
the
pressure is created by the weight of the oil above the transducer.
The oil level can still be above the transducer but low enough to
lower
the pressure and trigger and alarm. Using a sensor of this
type I
could drill out he center of the lower drain plug and make a
kit that anyone
could install with transfer case still on the car.
The problem with this
is the shallower the oil level , like in our
transfer case, the more
sensitive the transducer has to be and the
more prone to failure it will
be.
Again a temperature sensor might be the easiest, except that I
would really like to destroy a transfer case to determine the
correct
temperature to trigger a warning. OR I could get a
volunteer to
measure temperatures while driving in Death Valley. If
you ever get
your oil hotter than driving up steep grades in Death
Valley you definitely
have a problem.
Anyone live near Death Valley who wants to be a guinea
pig?
John Monnin
Original messge below
>Good idea. Sorry I
do not have more sensor ideas, but I wanted to
>tell you that you also
need to plan how to read that sensor
>correctly. The transfer case is
very compact, and I imagine all
>the oil gets splashed around once the
car starts moving. A
>traditional float will not know what to do, so you
>might want to set it up to give you a reading only when the car is
>standing still.
>Philip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 18:24:55
+0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Looking for low oil LEVEL sensor that could beadapted to transfer
case
Don't you guys check your transfercase fluid when you change
oil? Seems kind
of a waste to go looking for some sort of gauge to
detect loss of oil when you
could just look under the car periodically to
see if the bottom of the
transfercase is wet. If a leak develops that
is severe enough to leak a lot
of fluid out in 3000 miles, you should notice
the fluid drips on the garage
floor.
If you use Redline Shockproof
Heavy for fluid, it is flourescent pink. Kinda
tough to miss that
stuff leaking.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 20:36:09
-0600
From: "Dan Hyde" <
danielhyde@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Plug gap
From: "Desert Fox" <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Sent: Monday,
March 24, 2003 11:50 AM
Subject: Plug gap
<snip>
>Where have
you seen the recommended gap be set at 0.044"?
Paul
The link below has
the various plug gap recommendations for the Denso.
Why the IK20's I
installed were gapped at 0.040 rather that 0.044 escapes
my
explanation.
http://www.densoiridium.com/sparkplugspecs.phpDan
97
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 01:08:51
-0600
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Stuttering at 4,500 rpm
The brother of a good friend of mine
that drag races big block muscle cars,
AND is a Bosch engineer, showed us all
these different plugs, and what was
going on in my friends car just by
looking at the plugs. We got to talking
about Bosch's platinum offerings, and
when it finally came down to it, Bosch
themselves don't recommend them for
ANY forced induction applications.
Straight from the horse's mouth!
I
thought I knew how to gap plugs, and read them, but this guy was
lightyears
beyond me :) I trust him. Iridium is great only for one thing,
longevity
(another thing he mentioned). It doesn't conduct as well as
standard copper
plugs, but doesn't foul out like plat's do on our cars. Then
he went and
showed us some silver plugs that have to be replaced every 3000
miles or so
on his own car (he gets anything he wants for free I guess :).
We went
with a .032" gap on ours with the amount of boost running through
the car,
YMMV, but it seemed to idle nice and smooth, and not miss when the
boost hit.
He said to use the OEM brand plugs with our cars.
Vinny Singh -
http://www.manualcd.com/ - Service Manuals
on CD for your DSM or 3/S!
http://kaizen.eaglecars.com/>
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
> Subject:
Re: Team3S: Stuttering at 4,500 rpm
>
> on 3/23/03 9:10, Donald
Ashby at
dashbyiii@earthlink.net
scribbled:
>
> > If they are $2 you got copper plugs, in which
case you can adjust them,
if
> > they are platinum you
> >
will end up breaking your gaping tool. My manual says gap at 1.0-1.1mm
>
> (.039-.043 inches). I have
> > mine gaped at 1mm just to be safe.
When was the last time you checked
their
> > gap?
>
>
They are Bosch Platinum 4201. The parts store showed these to be
the
proper
> plug for my 95 VR-4 and listed the gap at 0.044" on the
screen that the
guy
> showed me when he looked it up. I though it to be
wide but decided to give
> them a try anyway.
>
> I've heard
from some who swear that some cars like Bosch plugs while
others
>
simply do not play nicely with them. My initial idea was to run several
>
thousand miles on them, then pull to inspect. Now I'm wondering if
I
should
> pull and replace with NGK or other...
>
>
Paul/.
> 95 black 3000GT VR-4
> 98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
> formerly reasonable and prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 04:20:42
-0500
From: "Arthurs Family" <
arthursfam@madbbs.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Engine Installation
Greetings,
After a full weekend of
work, my dad & I finally have the engine & transaxle
removed from my
'92 Stealth TT. Even using a lift, this was an
"unforgettable
experience". The engine etc. were removed "by the book" and
using pages
from Mr. Singh's book as a check list.
Looking ahead, my Dad says it
looks possible to drop in the engine/transaxle
as an assembly from the top
(he is an old English car kind of guy) by
jacking the passenger side of car
and tilting engine/trans unit on hoist.
I searched archives & found
Barry King's treatise on this subject from
October '99 but little
else.
Can anyone offer me a bit more detail as to the possibility of this
type
installation? Obviously there would be fewer left over bolts if
the
engine/trans can be put together on the bench rather than in the
car.
Please feel free to e-mail me directly on this subject, or post it
for
general consumption. Frankly, I'd rather read about hardcore car
stuff
rather than politics. I'm a prime candidate for the draft if it
gets
reinstated. I get enough current events at the dinner
table!
As always, thank you for your help.
Jon
Arthurs
Jamestown, NY
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 11:55:23
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Irridium plugs Denso IK24
Thanks Trevor,
What gap did
you choose on those Iridiums ? Also, I'm not sure but do yo
urun some
ignition upgrades too ?
Roger G.
93'&96'3000GT
www.rtec.chAt 20:21 23.03.2003 -0700,
Trevor James wrote:
>Yes they work great. I actually daily drive on
IK27's. I tried IK31's but
>they fouled in 110
miles.
>
>Trevor
>96 R/T TT
>11.74@118.5 on 94
octane
>11.57@119.7 on 100
>
>----- Original Message
-----
>From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
>To:
"Team3S" <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Sent:
Sunday, March 23, 2003 4:54 PM
>Subject: Team3S: Irridium plugs Denso
IK24
>
>
> > I was asked by a lokal guy if the Denso
Irridium IK24 fit our cars.
>Besides
> > of the fact that I'm not
a big fan of them I simply could not say yes or
>no.
> > In fact
they are two ranges colder than the stock ones but are they still
> >
resistor type and does everything fit like thread and lenghts ??
>
>
> > Thanks, Roger
> > 93'&96'3000GT TT
> >
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 07:18:37
-0600
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Engine Installation
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Arthurs Family
Sent: Tuesday,
March 25, 2003 3:21 AM
To:
Team3S@team3s.comSubject: Team3S: Engine
Installation
Greetings,
After a full weekend of work, my dad &
I finally have the engine & transaxle
removed from my '92 Stealth
TT. Even using a lift, this was an
"unforgettable experience".
<<<SNIP>>>
Agreed...unforgetable experience is a good
description....especially if,
like me, you've never done a motor
before.
<<<SNIP>>
Looking ahead, my Dad says it
looks possible to drop in the engine/transaxle
as an assembly from the top
(he is an old English car kind of guy) by
jacking the passenger side of car
and tilting engine/trans unit on
hoist.
<<<SNIP>>>
Here's a link to some pics you
might find interesting.
http://home.earthlink.net/~wjcrabtree/engineinstall/This
is my engine install. If you can do it this way I HIGHLY
reccomend
it. I had a problem with my tranny and had to remove it again
and then
re-install it AFTER the pics you are looking at. The
transmission is such a
pain-in-the-ASS to get up into the car from below
because you have to twist
and turn it every which way to get it lined up
right. The frame crossmember
by the firewall is to blame for
this....bad design!!(but I digress) SO, my
point is, from experience,
it's much easier to just drop the motor down to
floor level in the
great wide open of your garage floor and bolt up the
tranny than to do it
while the motor is in the car.
I will suggest that you go spend a few
bucks on a load leveler(SEE TOP OF
PIC:
http://home.earthlink.net/~wjcrabtree/engineinstall/MVC00011.JPG)
to
make it easier to "rock" the motor and tranny into place. I bought
mine at
harbor freight tools(
http://www.harborfreight.com/ ) for
around
$30.....well worth the money when you consider what it accomplishes
for you.
Have fun with it....mail me if you have Q's.
- -Jeff
Crabtree
'91 R/T TT (3SI # 0499)
2K Wrangler TJ Sport
St. Louis,
MO
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 05:49:00
-0700
From: "Jim Floyd" <
jim_floyd7@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Engine Installation
Is everyone aware of the difference
between an engine and a motor ?
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of William J. Crabtree
Sent:
Tuesday, March 25, 2003 6:19 AM
To:
Team3S@team3s.comSubject: RE: Team3S:
Engine Installation
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Arthurs Family
Sent: Tuesday,
March 25, 2003 3:21 AM
To:
Team3S@team3s.comSubject: Team3S: Engine
Installation
Greetings,
After a full weekend of work, my dad &
I finally have the engine & transaxle
removed from my '92 Stealth
TT. Even using a lift, this was an
"unforgettable experience".
<<<SNIP>>>
Agreed...unforgetable experience is a
good description....especially if,
like me, you've never done a motor
before.
<<<SNIP>>
Looking ahead, my Dad says it
looks possible to drop in the engine/transaxle
as an assembly from the top
(he is an old English car kind of guy) by
jacking the passenger side of car
and tilting engine/trans unit on
hoist.
<<<SNIP>>>
Here's a link to some pics
you might find interesting.
http://home.earthlink.net/~wjcrabtree/engineinstall/This
is my engine install. If you can do it this way I HIGHLY
reccomend
it. I had a problem with my tranny and had to remove it again
and then
re-install it AFTER the pics you are looking at. The
transmission is such a
pain-in-the-ASS to get up into the car from below
because you have to twist
and turn it every which way to get it lined up
right. The frame crossmember
by the firewall is to blame for
this....bad design!!(but I digress) SO, my
point is, from experience,
it's much easier to just drop the motor down to
floor level in the
great wide open of your garage floor and bolt up the
tranny than to do it
while the motor is in the car.
I will suggest that you go spend a few
bucks on a load leveler(SEE TOP OF
PIC:
http://home.earthlink.net/~wjcrabtree/engineinstall/MVC00011.JPG)
to
make it easier to "rock" the motor and tranny into place. I bought
mine at
harbor freight tools(
http://www.harborfreight.com/ ) for
around
$30.....well worth the money when you consider what it accomplishes
for you.
Have fun with it....mail me if you have Q's.
- -Jeff
Crabtree
'91 R/T TT (3SI # 0499)
2K Wrangler TJ Sport
St. Louis,
MO
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 14:04:18
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Engine Installation
>> Is everyone aware of the
difference between an engine and a motor ?
>From Webster's Ninth New
Collegiate Dictionary:
engine (n) 4. a machine for converting any of
various forms of energy into mechanical force.
motor (n) 2.b.
INTERNAL-COMBUSTION ENGINE; esp: a gasoline engine.
[caps are in the
original]
As described in the definitions above and as it pertains to our
automobile and this thread, a motor is a type of engine. "Motor" is a sub-class
of the general Class "Engine". Granted, there are other definitions of the words
"motor" and "engine".
:) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :)
Jeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Jim Floyd" <
jim_floyd7@earthlink.net>
To:
<
Team3S@team3s.com>
Sent:
Tuesday, March 25, 2003 5:49 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Engine
Installation
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 14:07:52
-0500
From: "Ken Lovell" <
wklovell@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
CD Changer
I'm interested in adding a CD changer to my '97 VR4 on the
cheap.
Anyone have a good source to buy the stock CD changer that I can
just
plug in? I came up dry on e-bay.
Thanks,
Ken
'97
Green VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V2
#113
***************************************
