Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth    Monday, March 24 2003    Volume 02 : Number 112




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Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 08:59:17 -0700
From: Desert Fox <bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stuttering at 4,500 rpm

Thanks for the quick reply Donald. They are widely gapped at 0.044", which
amazingly enough seems to be what is listed in all the cross reference
materials for our cars from the plug manufacturers. I got 28-29mpg on a
6,000 mile road trip January/February of this year so wide gaps obviously
produce better fuel mileage. However, everyone on the list seems to agree
that this gap is far too wide. Why would the plug manufacturers list this
gap for our vehicles? I've been paranoid of adjusting the gap on platinum
plugs per the warnings I have heard but am thinking it is my next move.

I'm a bit suspicious that they are Bosch... My suspicion is more due to the
fact that they were like $2/ea instead of $10/ea, thinking that I am getting
what I paid for...

- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent


on 3/23/03 8:55, Donald Ashby at dashbyiii@earthlink.net scribbled:

> Try pulling your spark plugs and regap them to factory specs.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 09:13:35 -0700
From: Desert Fox <bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stuttering at 4,500 rpm

on 3/23/03 9:10, Donald Ashby at dashbyiii@earthlink.net scribbled:

> If they are $2 you got copper plugs, in which case you can adjust them, if
> they are platinum you
> will end up breaking your gaping tool. My manual says gap at 1.0-1.1mm
> (.039-.043 inches). I have
> mine gaped at 1mm just to be safe. When was the last time you checked their
> gap?

They are Bosch Platinum 4201. The parts store showed these to be the proper
plug for my 95 VR-4 and listed the gap at 0.044" on the screen that the guy
showed me when he looked it up. I though it to be wide but decided to give
them a try anyway.

I've heard from some who swear that some cars like Bosch plugs while others
simply do not play nicely with them. My initial idea was to run several
thousand miles on them, then pull to inspect. Now I'm wondering if I should
pull and replace with NGK or other...

- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 09:24:39 -0700
From: Desert Fox <bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stuttering at 4,500 rpm

on 3/23/03 9:22, Donald Ashby at dashbyiii@earthlink.net scribbled:

>I'm running NGK coppers. Seem to be pretty good.

Is the only thing one gains from platinum plugs is longer life expectancy?
If so, I think I will give the coppers a try since I intend to monitor them
more frequently than 60K mile intervals anyway.
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 09:31:32 -0700
From: Desert Fox <bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Peeling headlights

on 3/21/03 12:14, Gross, Erik at erik.gross@intel.com scribbled:

> Here's Roger's response:
>> here is a link to the refinish on the headlights...
>> http://community.webshots.com/album/42431213XdAPfP
>
> --Erik
> '95 VR-4  www.team3s.com/~egross
>>> Roger Ludwig had the same problem as Paul on his '95 VR-4 and
>>> fixed it with some kind of polishing kit.  It didn't seem
>>> all that hard, and the results were great.  I don't have
>>> his website handy, but I'm sure he could point you to it.

Looking at Roger's images of his peeling, I noticed that it was also his
right headlight lens that was the problematic one. Why would the right side
be more prone to this peeling than the left?
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 12:31:06 -0500
From: JEMlNlX@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Electric Supercharger ??

What do you guys think about an electric supercharger.
Do you think itll do me any good to have it in my 1994 base 3000gt.
Would I know and feel the difference? How do electric superchargers work anyway?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 10:50:21 -0700
From: Desert Fox <bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Peeling headlights

on 3/21/03 15:16, Bob Forrest at bf@bobforrest.com scribbled:
>
> We have a page right on the Team3S site which covers both the '94 headlight
> condensation problem and the '95 peeling problem.  Look in the FAQ Index Page
> for "Fixing Headlight Condensation and Peeling"; it's in the Maintenance
> Section...

OK, I checked out this section and also saw Roger's album. Looks like I need
this kit. Where might I be able to obtain the polishing kit? I've found
links that show the kit but haven't found a source for purchase.

Also, is this endemic of 1995 models? Do the 99 headlights have the same
potential problem?
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 16:55:16 -0600
From: "cody" <overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: OT: a pic of my car

http://66.69.13.210:880/resized/new-3000b.jpg

Privately, what do ya think...  these cars are very intimidating from
the rear sans spoiler...  Even a few of my friends with Supras and such
love the look of the car without a rear spoiler...  From the back, the
car looks sooooo wide (will get some more pics)

- -Cody

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 00:54:54 +0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Team3S: Irridium plugs Denso IK24

I was asked by a lokal guy if the Denso Irridium IK24 fit our cars. Besides
of the fact that I'm not a big fan of them I simply could not say yes or no.
In fact they are two ranges colder than the stock ones but are they still
resistor type and does everything fit like thread and lenghts ??

Thanks, Roger
93'&96'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 20:35:09 -0600
From: "Dan Hyde" <danielhyde@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Irridium plugs Denso IK24

Since two weeks ago, I am running the Denso IK20 (stock# 5304) which is a
heat range Denso suggests for a stock VR4.

Based on the plug identification codes, the IK20 would be a non-resister
plug. Check out the link below.

http://www.densoiridium.com/identifyplugs.htm

The plugs I installed were all pre-gap to 0.040 (1mm).  I was tempted to
regap to a recommended 0.044 but decided against that for fear of breaking
an electrode.  My old plugs were NGKPFR6J-11 and nothing unusual looking
other than they were "worn". At 86K miles, I had no idea when the last
service was done - no records existed from the prior owner.

I am pleased with the change as it runs noticeably stronger from low-mid
RPM.  That's the best I can do to describe behavior.  It is possible any new
plugs would have yielded the same result.

Dan
Pearl White 1997 VR4
K&N; FlowMaster Catback;
Saner Performance Sway Bars (Front/Rear);
TEC Strut Tower bars (Front/Rear);
3SX Adjustable Rear Control Arms;
K40 Radar; Enkie 18x9 RP01 w/Nitto NT 555 - 245/40 ZR18


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To: "Team3S" <Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2003 5:54 PM
Subject: Team3S: Irridium plugs Denso IK24


I was asked by a lokal guy if the Denso Irridium IK24 fit our cars. Besides
of the fact that I'm not a big fan of them I simply could not say yes or no.
In fact they are two ranges colder than the stock ones but are they still
resistor type and does everything fit like thread and lenghts ??

Thanks, Roger
93'&96'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 20:21:01 -0700
From: "Trevor James" <trevorlj@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Irridium plugs Denso IK24

Yes they work great. I actually daily drive on IK27's. I tried IK31's but
they fouled in 110 miles.

Trevor
96 R/T TT
11.74@118.5 on 94 octane
11.57@119.7 on 100

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To: "Team3S" <Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2003 4:54 PM
Subject: Team3S: Irridium plugs Denso IK24


> I was asked by a lokal guy if the Denso Irridium IK24 fit our cars.
Besides
> of the fact that I'm not a big fan of them I simply could not say yes or
no.
> In fact they are two ranges colder than the stock ones but are they still
> resistor type and does everything fit like thread and lenghts ??
>
> Thanks, Roger
> 93'&96'3000GT TT
> www.rtec.ch

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 23:17:53 -0700
From: "Donald Ashby" <dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject: Team3S: Does anyone have pictures of stock intercoolers?

Does anyone have a picture of the stock intercoolers out of the car? I'm trying to figure out how to
plumb these end tanks, and my 3000 is my daily driver, so I can't take the intercoolers out to study
them. Thanks
Donald Ashby
'93 3000GT VR-4
"Don't drink and park, accidents cause people!"

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 00:25:11 -0600
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Does anyone have pictures of stock intercoolers?

> Does anyone have a picture of the stock
> intercoolers out of the car? I'm trying to
> figure out how to plumb these end tanks,
> and my 3000 is my daily driver, so I
> can't take the intercoolers out to study
> them. Thanks

You might be best off to just take off the wheelwell plastic splash panels
and take some measurements for where you want to place your plumbing.  You
should be able to see what you need from there.  Shouldn't be too much
trouble to get those panels off, except for the crappy Mitsu plastic
fasteners which like to strip out.  Grrr.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 00:43:33 -0800 (PST)
From: John Cipolletti <cipxyzb@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Transmissions

Is the Stealth trans reliable?  Is there any hidden
problems with them (I have a 93 Automatic)?  My 60K
maintenance cost $1000, will repairing the trans be as
costly?  Is there any telltale signs of problems?

                          John Cip

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 08:24:14 -0600
From: "Patrick Purviance" <purdaddy@associatedsys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Peeling headlights

Speaking of cleaning the insides of a 2nd gen headlight, I was following too
closely behind a truck last week......you know what's coming.......driver
side headlight got nailed by a rock or something and there's now a small
chip on the outside, which doesn't scare me half as much what happened on
the inside.  There's a "bubble" type splitting action on the inside side of
the glass.  It's look bad (I'd bold that if this were html!).  Anyway, I'm
wondering if I were to take the headlight apart with the cooking technique,
whether or not I could use a chip repair kit to fill the "bubble" on the
inside without effecting the lighting too much, or if I am out o' luck and
am going to have to replace it.  The "bubble/split" is roughly 1.5" tall by
.75" wide, with the chip on the outside of the glass in the middle of it and
looks kinda like this:

    /\
   /  \
   \  /
    \/
    /\
   /  \
   \  /
    \/

Hope that comes through.  Just the general look (not exact ;) )

Any ideas?

-Patrick

Patrick Purviance
'94 Stealth R/T TT, 59k miles, Open Air Intake, 1g DSM BOV,  Pro Boost MBC,
Blitz DATT
Wichita, KS

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 08:58:44 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Stuttering at 4,500 rpm

is it just at 4500 rpm, or actually at a specific point in the throttle movement as you accellerate?  If you are seeing this at the same point in throttle travel, you might suspect the TPS.

Chuck

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 08:52:47 -0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Slipping Transmission??

My 93 SL does the same thing on occasion if I stomp on it with the torque
converter locked (over drive on). It took me by surprise the first couple of
times and it could have been ugly as I REALLY needed the power it that
point. I just don't ask too much out of it if the converter is locked, it's
NEVER done it unlocked. Crummy work-around but CHEAP. If I need lots of
peddle I hit the switch on the shifter first. It's become automatic for me.
All the automatic tranny's I ever disassembled that have locking converters
use a co-axial double shaft system, the inner shaft attached directly to the
engine bypassing the converter and the outer one connected to the converter.
I don't know if the shifting is strictly electrical or if it is electric
over hydraulic but this is were it fails, the inner shaft disconnects and
the outer shaft never engages probably due to high torque conditions
over-powering the shifting mechanism.

Pete Rivenburg

- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Forrest [mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 4:12 PM
To: JimMcMa@aol.com; Team3S@team3s.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Slipping Transmission??

- ----- Original Message -----
From: <JimMcMa@aol.com>
> This is the third Automatic Transmission in my 1993 3000GT SL, which has
97k
miles on it. I do not race the car at all and try to just drive sensibly
with
it. The other two transmissions just simply stopped working. The first had
been under warrantee. This transmission now has 8500 miles on it in 2 and a
half years. While driving the car at speed , if I step on the gas to
accelerate, something slips causing the tach RPM's to increase, but no
movement out of the car. I need to let back off the gas and slowly increase
the speed for it to work normally. It happens infrequently, but it does
happen. This does not occur from a dead stop though. I Called the dealer who
states it should not be the transmission and they will need to check it.
They
want 300 dollars to diagnose a problem. Does anyone have any ideas before I
have to spend the money.
> Thanks,
> Jim
- ------------------------>

Unfortunately, very few of our members have automatics, so input from the
rest
of us will be relatively slight.  Since operation is only sluggish at times,
it's probably not an irreversible condition, but that also depends on
whether
or not there is something else wrong with the car - that caused the other 2
failures.

Basing it on past experience with other automatics, I'm guessing that any of
a
number of issues might apply: wrong amount of fluid (or wrong fluid),
improper
torqueing of something on the reinstall, improper reinstall, bent frame that
doesn't allow components to line up properly, you were charged for a rebuilt
tranny that never really was rebuilt, faulty electronic control (but it has
a
self-diagnostic built in), sticky damper clutch, debris in the converter,
control cable has slipped, transfer shaft pre-load is set incorrectly,
pressure control solenoid is shot...  You get the idea - there are probably
50
subsystems in a slushbox tranny.

If you have the manual (you DO have a manual, RIGHT!?!), and access to tools
(and you are comfortable with them), you can check many of the systems
yourself.  Without a manual, you're pretty much at the mercy of the dealer
or
shop.  You might want to contact that tranny shop listed on our "Good Guys"
Dealers and Vendors page, "East Coast Transmissions" (I think), since they
specialize in auto trannies for our cars.  Explain your problem and hope you
get lucky and they've "seen it before"...  If you want to check this out
yourself and you don't have a manual, we list sources for the manual in the
FAQ Index Page - under Basics.  You'll find the Good Guys page link there
too...  Good luck!

- ---Forrest

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 16:50:52 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Why not two level sensors?

>> It occurs to me that if we are dealing with conductive fluids ...

Oil, like gasoline, is *not* an electrically conductive fluid. This is why the fuel pump can be immersed in the gas tank. Oil, like gasoline, is an electrical insulator with resistance at the Megohm level (1 million ohms plus).

Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To: "John Monnin" <John.Monnin@3si.zzn.com>; <3sracers@speedtoys.com>; <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2003 4:47 PM
Subject: Team3S: Why not two level sensors?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #112
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