Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, March 24
2003 Volume 02 : Number
112
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 23 Mar 2003 08:59:17 -0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Stuttering at 4,500 rpm
Thanks for the quick reply Donald. They
are widely gapped at 0.044", which
amazingly enough seems to be what is
listed in all the cross reference
materials for our cars from the plug
manufacturers. I got 28-29mpg on a
6,000 mile road trip January/February of
this year so wide gaps obviously
produce better fuel mileage. However,
everyone on the list seems to agree
that this gap is far too wide. Why would
the plug manufacturers list this
gap for our vehicles? I've been paranoid of
adjusting the gap on platinum
plugs per the warnings I have heard but am
thinking it is my next move.
I'm a bit suspicious that they are Bosch...
My suspicion is more due to the
fact that they were like $2/ea instead of
$10/ea, thinking that I am getting
what I paid for...
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
on 3/23/03 8:55, Donald Ashby
at
dashbyiii@earthlink.net
scribbled:
> Try pulling your spark plugs and regap them to factory
specs.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 09:13:35
-0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Stuttering at 4,500 rpm
on 3/23/03 9:10, Donald Ashby at
dashbyiii@earthlink.net
scribbled:
> If they are $2 you got copper plugs, in which case you
can adjust them, if
> they are platinum you
> will end up breaking
your gaping tool. My manual says gap at 1.0-1.1mm
> (.039-.043 inches). I
have
> mine gaped at 1mm just to be safe. When was the last time you
checked their
> gap?
They are Bosch Platinum 4201. The parts store
showed these to be the proper
plug for my 95 VR-4 and listed the gap at
0.044" on the screen that the guy
showed me when he looked it up. I though it
to be wide but decided to give
them a try anyway.
I've heard from some
who swear that some cars like Bosch plugs while others
simply do not play
nicely with them. My initial idea was to run several
thousand miles on them,
then pull to inspect. Now I'm wondering if I should
pull and replace with NGK
or other...
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR
aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 09:24:39
-0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Stuttering at 4,500 rpm
on 3/23/03 9:22, Donald Ashby at
dashbyiii@earthlink.net
scribbled:
>I'm running NGK coppers. Seem to be pretty good.
Is
the only thing one gains from platinum plugs is longer life expectancy?
If
so, I think I will give the coppers a try since I intend to monitor them
more
frequently than 60K mile intervals anyway.
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT
VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and
prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 09:31:32
-0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Peeling headlights
on 3/21/03 12:14, Gross, Erik at
erik.gross@intel.com
scribbled:
> Here's Roger's response:
>> here is a link to
the refinish on the headlights...
>>
http://community.webshots.com/album/42431213XdAPfP>
> --Erik
> '95 VR-4
www.team3s.com/~egross>>>
Roger Ludwig had the same problem as Paul on his '95 VR-4 and
>>>
fixed it with some kind of polishing kit. It didn't seem
>>>
all that hard, and the results were great. I don't have
>>>
his website handy, but I'm sure he could point you to it.
Looking at
Roger's images of his peeling, I noticed that it was also his
right headlight
lens that was the problematic one. Why would the right side
be more prone to
this peeling than the left?
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98
VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and
prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 12:31:06
-0500
From:
JEMlNlX@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Electric Supercharger ??
What do you guys think about an electric
supercharger.
Do you think itll do me any good to have it in my 1994 base
3000gt.
Would I know and feel the difference? How do electric superchargers
work anyway?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 10:50:21
-0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Peeling headlights
on 3/21/03 15:16, Bob Forrest at
bf@bobforrest.com scribbled:
>
> We have a page right on the Team3S site which covers both the '94
headlight
> condensation problem and the '95 peeling problem. Look
in the FAQ Index Page
> for "Fixing Headlight Condensation and Peeling";
it's in the Maintenance
> Section...
OK, I checked out this section
and also saw Roger's album. Looks like I need
this kit. Where might I be able
to obtain the polishing kit? I've found
links that show the kit but haven't
found a source for purchase.
Also, is this endemic of 1995 models? Do the
99 headlights have the same
potential problem?
- --
Paul/.
95 black
3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and
prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 16:55:16
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: OT: a pic of my car
http://66.69.13.210:880/resized/new-3000b.jpgPrivately,
what do ya think... these cars are very intimidating from
the rear sans
spoiler... Even a few of my friends with Supras and such
love the look
of the car without a rear spoiler... From the back, the
car looks
sooooo wide (will get some more pics)
- -Cody
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 00:54:54
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: Irridium plugs Denso IK24
I was asked by a lokal guy if the Denso
Irridium IK24 fit our cars. Besides
of the fact that I'm not a big fan of
them I simply could not say yes or no.
In fact they are two ranges colder
than the stock ones but are they still
resistor type and does everything fit
like thread and lenghts ??
Thanks, Roger
93'&96'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 20:35:09
-0600
From: "Dan Hyde" <
danielhyde@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Irridium plugs Denso IK24
Since two weeks ago, I am running the
Denso IK20 (stock# 5304) which is a
heat range Denso suggests for a stock
VR4.
Based on the plug identification codes, the IK20 would be a
non-resister
plug. Check out the link below.
http://www.densoiridium.com/identifyplugs.htmThe
plugs I installed were all pre-gap to 0.040 (1mm). I was tempted
to
regap to a recommended 0.044 but decided against that for fear of
breaking
an electrode. My old plugs were NGKPFR6J-11 and nothing
unusual looking
other than they were "worn". At 86K miles, I had no idea when
the last
service was done - no records existed from the prior owner.
I
am pleased with the change as it runs noticeably stronger from
low-mid
RPM. That's the best I can do to describe behavior. It is
possible any new
plugs would have yielded the same
result.
Dan
Pearl White 1997 VR4
K&N; FlowMaster
Catback;
Saner Performance Sway Bars (Front/Rear);
TEC Strut Tower bars
(Front/Rear);
3SX Adjustable Rear Control Arms;
K40 Radar; Enkie 18x9 RP01
w/Nitto NT 555 - 245/40 ZR18
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To:
"Team3S" <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, March 23, 2003 5:54 PM
Subject: Team3S: Irridium plugs Denso
IK24
I was asked by a lokal guy if the Denso Irridium IK24 fit our
cars. Besides
of the fact that I'm not a big fan of them I simply could not
say yes or no.
In fact they are two ranges colder than the stock ones but are
they still
resistor type and does everything fit like thread and lenghts
??
Thanks, Roger
93'&96'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 20:21:01
-0700
From: "Trevor James" <
trevorlj@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Irridium plugs Denso IK24
Yes they work great. I actually daily drive on
IK27's. I tried IK31's but
they fouled in 110 miles.
Trevor
96 R/T
TT
11.74@118.5 on 94 octane
11.57@119.7 on 100
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
To:
"Team3S" <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, March 23, 2003 4:54 PM
Subject: Team3S: Irridium plugs Denso
IK24
> I was asked by a lokal guy if the Denso Irridium IK24 fit
our cars.
Besides
> of the fact that I'm not a big fan of them I simply
could not say yes or
no.
> In fact they are two ranges colder than the
stock ones but are they still
> resistor type and does everything fit like
thread and lenghts ??
>
> Thanks, Roger
> 93'&96'3000GT
TT
>
www.rtec.ch***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 23:17:53
-0700
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Does anyone have pictures of stock intercoolers?
Does anyone have
a picture of the stock intercoolers out of the car? I'm trying to figure out how
to
plumb these end tanks, and my 3000 is my daily driver, so I can't take the
intercoolers out to study
them. Thanks
Donald Ashby
'93 3000GT
VR-4
"Don't drink and park, accidents cause people!"
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 00:25:11
-0600
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Does anyone have pictures of stock intercoolers?
> Does anyone
have a picture of the stock
> intercoolers out of the car? I'm trying
to
> figure out how to plumb these end tanks,
> and my 3000 is my
daily driver, so I
> can't take the intercoolers out to study
>
them. Thanks
You might be best off to just take off the wheelwell plastic
splash panels
and take some measurements for where you want to place your
plumbing. You
should be able to see what you need from there.
Shouldn't be too much
trouble to get those panels off, except for the crappy
Mitsu plastic
fasteners which like to strip out. Grrr.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 00:43:33
-0800 (PST)
From: John Cipolletti <
cipxyzb@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Transmissions
Is the Stealth trans reliable? Is there any
hidden
problems with them (I have a 93 Automatic)? My
60K
maintenance cost $1000, will repairing the trans be as
costly?
Is there any telltale signs of
problems?
John Cip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 08:24:14
-0600
From: "Patrick Purviance" <
purdaddy@associatedsys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Peeling headlights
Speaking of cleaning the insides of a 2nd
gen headlight, I was following too
closely behind a truck last week......you
know what's coming.......driver
side headlight got nailed by a rock or
something and there's now a small
chip on the outside, which doesn't scare me
half as much what happened on
the inside. There's a "bubble" type
splitting action on the inside side of
the glass. It's look bad (I'd
bold that if this were html!). Anyway, I'm
wondering if I were to take
the headlight apart with the cooking technique,
whether or not I could use a
chip repair kit to fill the "bubble" on the
inside without effecting the
lighting too much, or if I am out o' luck and
am going to have to replace
it. The "bubble/split" is roughly 1.5" tall by
.75" wide, with the chip
on the outside of the glass in the middle of it and
looks kinda like
this:
/\
/ \
\ /
\/
/\
/ \
\ /
\/
Hope that
comes through. Just the general look (not exact ;) )
Any
ideas?
-Patrick
Patrick Purviance
'94 Stealth R/T TT, 59k
miles, Open Air Intake, 1g DSM BOV, Pro Boost MBC,
Blitz
DATT
Wichita, KS
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 08:58:44
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Stuttering at 4,500 rpm
is it just at 4500 rpm, or actually
at a specific point in the throttle movement as you accellerate? If you
are seeing this at the same point in throttle travel, you might suspect the
TPS.
Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 08:52:47
-0700
From: "Rivenburg, Pete" <
privenburg@firstam.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Slipping Transmission??
My 93 SL does the same thing on
occasion if I stomp on it with the torque
converter locked (over drive on).
It took me by surprise the first couple of
times and it could have been ugly
as I REALLY needed the power it that
point. I just don't ask too much out of
it if the converter is locked, it's
NEVER done it unlocked. Crummy
work-around but CHEAP. If I need lots of
peddle I hit the switch on the
shifter first. It's become automatic for me.
All the automatic tranny's I
ever disassembled that have locking converters
use a co-axial double shaft
system, the inner shaft attached directly to the
engine bypassing the
converter and the outer one connected to the converter.
I don't know if the
shifting is strictly electrical or if it is electric
over hydraulic but this
is were it fails, the inner shaft disconnects and
the outer shaft never
engages probably due to high torque conditions
over-powering the shifting
mechanism.
Pete Rivenburg
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Bob Forrest [mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 4:12
PM
To:
JimMcMa@aol.com;
Team3S@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Slipping Transmission??
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
JimMcMa@aol.com>
> This is the third
Automatic Transmission in my 1993 3000GT SL, which has
97k
miles on it. I
do not race the car at all and try to just drive sensibly
with
it. The
other two transmissions just simply stopped working. The first had
been under
warrantee. This transmission now has 8500 miles on it in 2 and a
half years.
While driving the car at speed , if I step on the gas to
accelerate,
something slips causing the tach RPM's to increase, but no
movement out of
the car. I need to let back off the gas and slowly increase
the speed for it
to work normally. It happens infrequently, but it does
happen. This does not
occur from a dead stop though. I Called the dealer who
states it should not
be the transmission and they will need to check it.
They
want 300 dollars
to diagnose a problem. Does anyone have any ideas before I
have to spend the
money.
> Thanks,
> Jim
-
------------------------>
Unfortunately, very few of our members have
automatics, so input from the
rest
of us will be relatively slight.
Since operation is only sluggish at times,
it's probably not an irreversible
condition, but that also depends on
whether
or not there is something else
wrong with the car - that caused the other 2
failures.
Basing it on
past experience with other automatics, I'm guessing that any of
a
number
of issues might apply: wrong amount of fluid (or wrong
fluid),
improper
torqueing of something on the reinstall, improper
reinstall, bent frame that
doesn't allow components to line up properly, you
were charged for a rebuilt
tranny that never really was rebuilt, faulty
electronic control (but it has
a
self-diagnostic built in), sticky damper
clutch, debris in the converter,
control cable has slipped, transfer shaft
pre-load is set incorrectly,
pressure control solenoid is shot... You
get the idea - there are probably
50
subsystems in a slushbox
tranny.
If you have the manual (you DO have a manual, RIGHT!?!), and
access to tools
(and you are comfortable with them), you can check many of
the systems
yourself. Without a manual, you're pretty much at the mercy
of the dealer
or
shop. You might want to contact that tranny shop
listed on our "Good Guys"
Dealers and Vendors page, "East Coast
Transmissions" (I think), since they
specialize in auto trannies for our
cars. Explain your problem and hope you
get lucky and they've "seen it
before"... If you want to check this out
yourself and you don't have a
manual, we list sources for the manual in the
FAQ Index Page - under
Basics. You'll find the Good Guys page link there
too... Good
luck!
- ---Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 16:50:52
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Why not two level sensors?
>> It occurs to me that if
we are dealing with conductive fluids ...
Oil, like gasoline, is *not* an
electrically conductive fluid. This is why the fuel pump can be immersed in the
gas tank. Oil, like gasoline, is an electrical insulator with resistance at the
Megohm level (1 million ohms plus).
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
"John Monnin" <
John.Monnin@3si.zzn.com>; <
3sracers@speedtoys.com>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Saturday, March 22, 2003 4:47 PM
Subject: Team3S: Why not two level
sensors?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V2
#112
***************************************
