Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, March 21
2003 Volume 02 : Number 110
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 04:16:57 -0600
From: "Vineet Singh \(3S\)" <
stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Slipping Transmission??
That's some very good advice! I'd like to add that the Mitsu tranny's used
in the Turbo DSM's and NT 3000gt/Stealths are basically the same. As such, a
weak point is the seals and plates that engage overdrive/rev.
Does your transmission still slip with the OD button off? If not, then it
could be a simple fix, for around $200 or less, and can be done in about an hour
w/o taking the whole transmission out. Talk to Charles at
www.plymouthlaser.com , as he can point
you to affordable sources for uprated/overhaul kits and parts for performance
and longevity. I put the thicker frictions and steels from I believe the ALTO
kit on my 97 Talon AWD, as well as the wife's 98 GSX. My 91 AWD used to slip
from time to time, sort of like you described, until that too got a similar
upgrade. It's not hard to fix if that's all it is.
Had you ever changed the fluid? Was the proper fluid used? I only recommend
the standard Mitsu ATF, and avoid the joeschmoe Dexron II/III and synthetic
stuff, it just doesn't seem to work right with most other fluids.
> Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 15:11:49 -0800
> From: "Bob Forrest"
<
bf@bobforrest.com>
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Slipping Transmission??
>
> - ----- Original
Message -----
> From: <
JimMcMa@aol.com>
> > This is the
third Automatic Transmission in my 1993 3000GT SL, which
> > has 97k
miles on it. I do not race the car at all and try to just drive
>
sensibly with it. The other two transmissions just simply stopped
>
working. The first had been under warrantee. This transmission now has
>
8500 miles on it in 2 and a half years. While driving the car at speed
>
, if I step on the gas to accelerate, something slips causing the tach
>
RPM's to increase, but no movement out of the car. I need to let back
>
off the gas and slowly increase the speed for it to work normally. It
>
happens infrequently, but it does happen. This does not occur from a
>
dead stop though. I Called the dealer who states it should not be the
>
transmission and they will need to check it.
>
> They want 300
dollars to diagnose a problem. Does anyone have any
> ideas
>
before I have to spend the money.
> > Thanks,
> > Jim
>
- ------------------------>
>
> Unfortunately, very few of our
members have automatics, so input from
> the rest of us will be relatively
slight. Since operation is only
> sluggish at times, it's probably
not an irreversible condition, but
> that also depends on whether or not
there is something else wrong with
> the car - that caused the other 2
failures.
>
> Basing it on past experience with other automatics,
I'm guessing that
> any of a number of issues might apply: wrong amount of
fluid (or
> wrong fluid), improper torquing of something on the reinstall,
improper
> reinstall, bent frame that doesn't allow components to line up
properly,
> you were charged for a rebuilt tranny that never really was
rebuilt,
> faulty electronic control (but it has a self-diagnostic built
in),
> sticky damper clutch, debris in the converter, control cable
has
> slipped, transfer shaft pre-load is set incorrectly, pressure
control
> solenoid is shot... You get the idea - there are probably
50
> subsystems in a slushbox tranny.
>
> If you have the
manual (you DO have a manual, RIGHT!?!), and access to
> tools (and you
are comfortable with them), you can check many of the
> systems
yourself. Without a manual, you're pretty much at the mercy
> of
the dealer or shop. You might want to contact that tranny shop
>
listed on our "Good Guys" Dealers and Vendors page, "East Coast
>
Transmissions" (I think), since they specialize in auto trannies for
>
our cars. Explain your problem and hope you get lucky and they've
>
"seen it before"... If you want to check this out yourself and you
> don't have a manual, we list sources for the manual in the FAQ Index
> Page - under Basics. You'll find the Good Guys page link there
too...
>Good luck!
>
> - ---Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 06:39:44 -0600
From: Slayton Shaw <
scshaw2@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 3KGT ad material upload
Jeff has allotted me server space and have started to upload the
files.
The years are actually 1994 to 1999, although only a few color photos
are available in the later years.
Once Jeff let's me know my test posts are working then I'll upload all
the artwork. Don't know how to tell you to download them but I guess
Jeff will provide the details to the list.
The files will be separated into folders for each year, and by color
within each year if available. The filenames are Mitsubishi driven so
the 3KGT SL for 1996 may have the same filename for the 3KGT SL for
1997. Basically all three models (Base, SL and Turbo) are offered with
profile and three-quarter views. Some years feature front and rear
views.
These TIFF files are anywhere from 0.5MB to 1.8MB for grayscale and 5MB
to 12MB for the full color photos. All artwork is at 200 dpi. The full
color photos are in CMYK colorspace which means you may want to convert
them to RGB color space for web use or ink jet printing. If you will
use
any of them on a website then (to save bandwidth and display speed)
resample
the image to 72 dpi using Photoshop or some other photo
editing
software.
Understand that these are national agency illustrations and
photographs, therefore what you download is what you get...I am not the
originator of this artwork.
The "Street-Seeking Missile" ad will be in the 1997 folder and labeled
as 3000GT.TIF.
Enjoy!
scShaw
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 10:31:13 -0500
From: Thor Holth <
thorholth@snet.net>
Subject: Team3S:
1991 R/T Turbo for sale.
Hey all:
I'm looking to sell my 1991 Stealth r/t turbo, which is
presently in storage in southeastern Connecticut (in new london, near groton and
mystic if you know where those towns are).
I have not driven the car more than a couple thousand
miles in the last year, and would rather see someone else enjoy the car, instead
of it resting in storage. That being said, here are the details:
1991 Stealth R/T Turbo, AWD.
Mileage: approx 125,000
Exterior Color: (arrest me)
Red (few small nicks on hood though)
Interior Color:
Black (leather)
Wheels restored to factory spec and
re-painted by Precision Wheel
New Tires 5,000 miles
ago.
60 k service performed @ 112,000 Miles (new water
pump, pulleys, etc.)
A/C converted from R12 to R134a
(dealer installed, nice alternative
to
paying for a recharge, anyway. See
my
prior post regarding this, as
the
conversion, with freon, cost about
$150,
as opposed to a R12 refill for
hundreds
more.)
ECU has been repaired/upgraded as of last year by
outfit in FLA
recommended by Jeff
Lucius (I think it was auto and
truck
electronics).
Transfer Case replaced by Dodge in 2001
(recall program) - T/C has about 5k miles on it
Mods: Car is completely original, with following
exceptions:
i. K&N
Filterpack/Filtercharger (I forgot which, but had not
yet
even
been through its first recharge. It's the filter
which
replaces the stock airbox and fastens directly to the
MAS)
ii. Replaced stock oil, turbo
and water temp gauges
with
Autometer Phantom gauges. Also added fuel pressure, a/f
ration
and
Air temp gauges (latter is digital by cyberdyne). Air
temp
A/F
ratio interchange on A-pillar mount, turbo is mounted
above
on
a-pillar. For individual sensing of each cylinder bank,
A/F
ratio
has selector switch mounted on console.
This would be a great project car for someone looking to
get into mods, for two reasons: First, car runs great as it is, so mods
could be put off until later. Second, you'd be starting with a blank
slate.
Right now, car is in storage in garage in New London,
CT. Included would be a brand new "Noah" fabric car cover. Allows
car to "breath" so moisture isn't trapped against paint, but outside layer
repels rain water. By the way, no rust on car. I've owned it for two
years, and never driven it during winter or early sprint\g.
The car needs nothing, except gas. Current synthetic oil
has only 300 miles on it.
Sad to
see it go, but hate to see it sit there.
I can e-mail pics to anybody interested, or you could
look here:
Asking price - $7,000, but reasonable offers
entertained
------------------------------
Hey all,
After suffering with the dreaded leaking oil cap (and finally
fixing it by
replacing the hard plastic gasket with a cork one) I need to
clean my
engine. Any tips or suggestions specific to these cars? (93 Stealth
NA). Thanks
------------------------------
Hey all, I've got a question that's looms in the back of my mind every time
someone comes up from behind me out on the road to a stop (light or
sign).
;)
My '94 R/T TT has no "R/T" or "Turbo" or "Stealth" badging on the tail,
like all the others I've seen. Granted, there aren't a lot of 2nd Gen
Stealths I've seen in Wichita (or in person for that matter), but the only place
on my car that tells anything about it is the TwinTurbo badging on the doors.
I've had a lot of people ask what kind of car it is because it simply doesn't
say it anywhere. In fact my grandpa, when admiring for the first time,
asked what a "dochie" was.....everyone giggled behind his back, cause he was
reading the DOHC on the C-pillar glass thinking that was the model.
So does anyone know if they just stopped marking the Stealths in '94, or is
mine a loner?
Thanks,
-Curious in Wichita (a.k.a. Patrick)
Patrick Purviance
'94 Stealth R/T TT, 59k miles, Open Air Intake, 1g DSM
BOV, ProBoost MBC, Blitz DATT Wichita, KS
------------------------------
> I removed mine just for that reason. I like to keep them
guessing.
>
> Jim
> 91 RTTT
Yeah, I like that no one knows for sure (except that my tag says "BOOSTIN",
if that doesn't give it away), but just wondered if it was factory or not.
-Patrick
Patrick Purviance
'94 Stealth R/T TT, 59k miles, Open Air Intake, 1g DSM
BOV, Pro Boost MBC, Blitz DATT Wichita, KS
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 11:24:13 -0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Peeling headlights
Can someone point me to the website that had instructions for fixing the
peeling headlight problem that I suffer on my right headlight cover? It's a 95
if it makes any difference.
TIA.
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
------------------------------
Paul,
It's not too much of a PIA as it is time consuming. I don't recall
the website but this is how I did mine.
Remove Headlight assembly from vehicle (Don't forget about bolt behind
front yellow side lights.
Gently pry off silver clips around light assemble and remove mounting
brackets. (my brackets were quite rusty so I cleaned them up and repainted
them)
Now the time consuming part: Using a hot air gun or hair dryer heat up
around lens and base seam to melt black caulking and gradually remove caulking
from around assemble and gently pry assembly apart.
Clean lens and apply new black silicon gasket goo to base of assembly and
reinstall lens cover. Replace silver clips around seam of assembly.
Any Questions let me know
Dan Labonte
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 12:49:13 -0600
From: "Patrick Purviance" <
purdaddy@associatedsys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Peeling headlights
> Clean lens and apply new black silicon gasket goo to base of
assembly
> and reinstall lens cover. Replace silver clips around
seam of
> assembly.
>
> Any Questions let me
know
>
> Dan Labonte
What's the best product for the "black silicon gasket goo"?
-Patrick
Patrick Purviance
'94 Stealth R/T TT, 59k miles, Open Air Intake, 1g DSM
BOV, Pro Boost MBC, Blitz DATT Wichita, KS
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 10:59:35 -0800 (PST)
From: Casey Spivey <
spiv99@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Popping noise while turning
Would the popping develop over time? I have had the springs in for about
30K miles and that's when it started. Could the lower ball joint cause this or
bad struts? Thanks, Casey
There are three holes in the upper spring perch. The center one is
larger than the other two. This larger hole must be aligned with the hole
in the lower spring perch (the strut body). If it is not, when you turn,
the upper spring perch will press against the inner wall of the upper strut
tower, and will cause the spring to rotate within the perch. This will cause a
clunk sound every time it happens. I learned this when I first installed
Intrax springs on my car. Look in the service manual, there is a detailed
diagram with this info on it...
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 13:58:42 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Peeling headlights
They have things like this down to a science
Russ F
CT
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 10:47:30 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Peeling headlights
Correct me if I'm wrong, Paul, but I think you're referring to the topmost
layer peeling off of the Lexan ('95-'98) headlights, not the fogging and
discoloration associated with the '94 glass headlights. Removing the cover
from the lights and cleaning them won't do anything for the outer surface
peeling...
Roger Ludwig had the same problem as Paul on his '95 VR-4 and fixed it with
some kind of polishing kit. It didn't seem all that hard, and the results
were great. I don't have his website handy, but I'm sure he could point
you to it.
Roger, you out there?
- --Erik
> Can someone point me to the website that had instructions for fixing
> the peeling headlight problem that I suffer on my right headlight
> cover? It's a 95 if it makes any difference.
------------------------------
yes, the rotation of the upper spring perch can develop over time,
especially when you go over a lot of bumps that unload the strut to the top of
its travel. Rich Merritt even had his strut shafts rotating and winding up
the ECS connector until it disconnected.
Chuck Willis
- -----Original Message-----
From: Casey Spivey
[mailto:spiv99@yahoo.com]
Sent: Friday, March 21, 2003 1:00 PM
Would the popping develop over time? I have had the springs in for about
30K miles and that's when it started. Could the lower ball joint cause this or
bad struts? Thanks, Casey
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 11:14:40 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Peeling headlights
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 14:16:58 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Peeling headlights
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Desert Fox" <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
> Can
someone point me to the website that had instructions for fixing
> the
peeling headlight problem that I suffer on my right headlight
> cover?
It's a 95 if it makes any difference.
-
----------------------------------->
We have a page right on the Team3S site which covers both the '94 headlight
condensation problem and the '95 peeling problem. Look in the FAQ Index
Page for "Fixing Headlight Condensation and Peeling"; it's in the Maintenance
Section...
- ---Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 16:58:35 -0700
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 4-6 Feet of snow in Colorado
Here's my car at the end of my driveway:
http://www.geocities.com/raverdude30391184/DCAO0003.JPGI
noticed something strange, when I'm on that much snow and getting absolutely no
traction my car pulls heavily to the driver's side. Is that because there is no
front LSD so my front left tire is spinning away? Or is there something wrong? I
have to say though, driving around on a snowpack of a foot of snow (whenever I
wasn't "plowing" through it with my hefty 4 inches of ground clearance) was
quite a bit of fun :) Did several doughnuts in a nearby parking lot. I'm on
Yokohama non studded snow tires which seemed to be doing better then a lot of
bigger cars out there. Had a snowplow behind me get stuck where I pulled away,
it was quite amusing. Donald Ashby '93 3000GT VR-4 "Don't drink and park,
accidents cause people!"
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 17:52:41 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 4-6 Feet of snow in Colorado
That's the torque of the drivetrain.
All that power being moved around the drivetrain, will do that.
- ---
**Now offering replacement
Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Porsche/SAAB/Volvo parts!**
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2003 23:04:32 -0700
From: "Donald Ashby" <
dashbyiii@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 4-6 Feet of snow in Colorado
Oh yea, rear passenger side was about 2 1/2 feet off the ground, best thing
was absolutely nothing was damaged on the car, my active aero still works too.
Basically what happened was I was trying to pull up the driveway, had the wheel
turned all the way to the right, and floored it, and suddenly I was sliding to
my left, which was not a good thing since I ran out of road on my left. Anyway I
took a lot of pictures. Just finished getting the car out today (Picture was
taken on Tuesday), took 3 days of shoveling to get to the end of my driveway so
I could get wedge the car out of that hole. Ended up with a sunburn and a
scratch on my front fender. Donald Ashby '93 3000GT VR-4 "Don't drink and park,
accidents cause people!"
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#110
***************************************
