Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, March 20
2003 Volume 02 : Number 109
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 23:40:05 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: FRAM filter question
I dunno..the only tests out there are -years- old, and if they sucked so
bad, how come every Detroit POS out there with 200,000 miles on it on 5,000 mile
old Wal-mart recycled oil still runs with em?
On Thu, 20 Mar 2003, Philip V. Glazatov wrote:
> I keep hearing advice to stay away from FRAM filters. There must be a
> good reason why I should do that. So if you know the reason please
explain.
> Also, are there any particular models that are bad? Are there
any models
> that are good?
>
> I went to a local car parts
store today and bought a Mobil1 filter for
> my daily driver for $9.99
plus tax. EXPENSIVE, damn! A salesman tried to tell
> me to buy a $3.69
Fram filter because he claimed it was much better. I
> compared the
labels and Mobil1 says "...one of the highest single pass
> efficiency
ratings available, with 98% particle removal at 10 to 20
> microns.
Multiple pass tests ... are 95% efficient in removing harmful
>
contaminants from engine oil". A Fram filter had the same statement with
> respective numbers of 97% and 94% at 1/3 the price. I should have
bought
> AC-Delco, but the salesman told me they did not have AC-Delco
filters for
> my car (lied again, I realized only now).
>
>
So what do those bad Fram filters do to cars and which models are okay
>
and which models I should stay away from?
>
> Philip
- ---
**Now offering replacement
Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Porsche/SAAB/Volvo parts!**
------------------------------
From: Darren Schilberg [mailto:dschilberg@pobox.com]
Date: Thursday,
March 20, 2003 00:36
Subject: Voltage regulator question
I have a problem that a friend diagnosed (as a guess) as the voltage
regulator. With those keywords I searched the archives and found this
post. However, there is no answer to the thread in the archives so I don't
know what the solution is.
What is strange is I have the same symptoms: Just the same three lights
(Brake, Battery, and Radiator), they glow dimly up to 3,000 RPM and then flicker
from 3,000-6,000 RPM, the battery is good charge (new Optima Red Top last year),
the headlights do not get brighter or dimmer with the RPMs revving.
The only answer in the archives was "perhaps it is a grounding problem -
add another ground to the engine." I'm sure there are other answers and
have a multimeter but don't have a clue where to start hunting.
The only thing to add is that I have three aftermarket gauges wired to the
driver footwell fuse box as well as a scanner and CB. This has not been a
problem so far but maybe something welded itself to another circuit or this just
popped up after the winter.
Any ideas?
--Flash!
-----Original Message-----
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 10:29:14
-0700
From: "Terry Swift" <
tlswift@hotbot.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Electrical Malady
Have encountered in the past and its really present now (had an aftermarket
alarm installed) a electrical gremlin that causes only certain of my dash idiot
lights to light up / flash. This is the scenario:
NIGHT DRIVING: Headlights on (fogs make no difference whether on or off),
A/C on - fan low, stereo on, dash light turned up about 3/4's = From idle to
3,000 rpm there is NO dash light problems. Above 3,000 rpm, the battery,
brake, and the Parthenon (far lower right light) start to dimly glow (the brake
light will sort of flash/blink)to growing brighter as the rpm's increase.
DAY DRIVING: Headlights off, A/C ON Full Blast, stereo on, dash
lights as above 3/4: Idle to 3,000 = No glow or blinking 3-4,000 = no noticeable
glow / blinking Over 4,000 = glow and blinking (Some drain is noticeable
(slight) when running A/C full blast at idle - when rpm's start to kick up a
little, fan speed sound increases some and the Climate Control lighting goes a
little brighter.
Any ideas, i.e. the alternator / voltage regulator and is there an
aftermarket version that is a high output. Battery seems to be ok as it
cranks up easily - not sure how old, but doesn't seem to be correct size.
My main question would be - "Why only these three lights, are they somehow
tied into together thru a fuse block / relays, etc?"
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 01:12:02 -0600
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: FRAM filter question
Try reading this...it changed my mind. That Mobil One filter you
bought was a good choice.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Sent: Wednesday,
March 19, 2003 11:44 PM
> I keep hearing advice to stay away from FRAM filters.
<<SNIP>>>
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 06:42:23 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Automatic Transmission and FWD to AWD
You would have to purchase all the parts from Japan to do this type of
conversion... The rear frame will need some modification as well...
The automatic tranny was offered with all-wheel-drive on a non-turbo car
over there. This will be extremely cost prohibitive...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From: Keith Morgavi
Sent: Saturday,
March 15, 2003 8:58 PM
Hello,
I would like to know if it is possible to convert my FWD '93 Stealth RT NT
with Automatic Transmission to an AWD version of the same car. I know this may
be difficult and do not know where to start or if it is even possible.
Thank you very much for you consideration.
Regards,
Keith Morgavi
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 08:26:55 -0500 (EST)
From: Patrick James
Ouellette <
pouellet@mix.wvu.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: I have an electronic gremlin
Hey guys, this is my first post in a long time. There has been
similar
posting but let me assure you my problem is not the same. Let
me tell
you what is happening...Occasionally (not always) when the door is
ajar
the interior lights don't work, when I begin to turn the car over the
A/C fan comes on automatically, once the car is started the fan remains
on till I turn it off and the radio doesn't work, the interior lights
still don't work. It is not the door pin, they have been checked, nor
is it a loose battery terminal. At times everything will start working
while driving down the road maybe for a 1/2 hour then back again. This
is very mysterious and annoying. Any suggestions will be greatly
appreciated.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 07:43:37 -0600
From: Slayton Shaw <
scshaw2@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 3KGT ad material
Been lurking since buying a 97 3KGT SL in December. Work with an ad
agency and started looking at archived Mitsubishi ads from 1996 on and
came across some interesting artwork and one ad (black and white only)
with the catch-phrase of "Street Seeking Missile". Of course we all
know
the 3KGT is just that.
If any members of the list are interested in downloading this ad I will
request web space from Jeff Mohler or Bob Forrest. Some other agency
artwork found is full color and b&w photos and illustrations of this
"missile" for 1996 to 1999 model years. You will need some sort photo
editing software such as Photoshop to open any of these items which I
have converted to PC-compatible TIFFs.
Please post your interest to the list and not me. I will upload only to
approved list web space.
scShaw
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 09:17:45 -0500
From: Adam May <
adam.may@lrp.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Anybody interested in buying a 94 VR4?
Hi,
I am selling my 3000 vr4.
Its in excellent
condition, 74k miles
Black exterior, dark grey leather interior
Black
tinted windows.
Everything works great.
Clutch, timing belt and plugs, etc
were replaced at 58k
(little over a year ago)
Car has been garage kept and
serviced by dealership all her life. Car includes the chrome wheels, 6disc cd
changer, mud flaps and sunroof.
Car has never been in an accident and only has one or two
minor
dings.
Yes I am the original owner
Asking $15000 or best offer.
Car is located in Jupiter Florida
Pictures are available upon
request.
email me if interested.
thanks
Adam
PS. Yes it is very difficult for me to part with her, but I must.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 07:37:40 -0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: FRAM filter question
I'm not sure how you drew this conclusion as that web page states that
Mobil 1 oil filters have been prone to failure.
The problem I've had with Fram filters is that I have had them crush when
trying to remove them. Very disconcerting. I have used them on cars other than
my VR-4 without any engine damage, just that removal problem that left a bad
taste in my mouth and oil all over my hands. I'm not into the version they have
which is impregnated with Teflon either. No solids in my oil please... I have
used the Fram X2 (their $10 filter) on my F150 several times and it has worked
as it should. Notice from the web page link that the two less expensive Frams
have a plastic bypass valve whereas the Fram X2 has a metal one. If you must go
Fram, I'd say use this one, although at $10 a pop, I'd rather use the K&N or
several Mitsu.
My vote goes for the K&N Gold (I think it is model 1-1004 or
something). It has a 1" nut on the end cap for easy removal with a socket
instead of a filter wrench. There is nothing wrong with the Mitsu filter for $6
or less either. The Honda filter for the V6 Accord works well too at around the
same price.
I change filters every 3,000 miles and do full oil changes at 6,000 or
9,000 depending on time, season, etc. So I go through at least 2 filters per
full oil change.
My car ticks badly with Mobil 1 oil but is silent with Amsoil 10W30 so I
steer clear from Mobil 1. I've even experimented with different weights (0W30
and 5W30) but both of those seemed to tick much more than the less expensive,
regular Amsoil 10W30. I've extensively used the Amsoil oil filters too, which
also seem to perform just fine and I have never crushed one on removal.
The guy at the auto shop likes Fram because his IQ is probably equal to his
age.
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 09:31:31 -0600
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: FRAM filter question
The guy says in his study that it's a good filter product except that he
has heard of failures at high pressures....whatever that means. I've been
using them on my jeeps for years now and can attest that I've not once had them
fail on me. I like the fact that it is a synthetic element that filters
smaller particulates. If I could buy the K&N locally, I would give it
a shot, but as of now, I've not seen one place that carries it....and I'm not
about to start mail ordering oil filters. I can pick up the Mobil one
filter for just about $10 at Autozone.
- -Jeff C.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 08:46:55 -0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: FRAM filter question
Makes sense to me. Pragmatism rules.
I bet Autozone would order some if you persisted in inquiring.
With all this war and such, I keep wondering why the obvious benefits of
synthetic oils aren't brought to the forefront as a good way of decreasing our
nation's dependency on foreign oil.
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
> The guy says in his study that it's a good filter product except that
> he has heard of failures at high pressures....whatever that
means.
> I've been using them on my jeeps for years now and can
attest that
> I've not once had them fail on me. I like the fact
that it is a
> synthetic element that filters smaller particulates.
If I could buy
> the K&N locally, I would give it a shot, but as of
now, I've not seen
> one place that carries it....and I'm not about to
start mail ordering
> oil filters. I can pick up the Mobil one
filter for just about $10 at
> Autozone.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 10:29:17 -0600
From: Jon Paine <
ppainej@attglobal.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: FRAM filter question
Synthetic starts out as dino oil and is modified; it's not entirely
synthesized. Using the same quantity of synthetic as dino doesn't
conserve resources.
We could conserve oil if the user of the synthetic oil actually used the
extended change intervals that the synthetic provides - i.e. instead of
changing at 1/2 the mfr recommended interval with dino oil, synthetic
would change at the mfr recommendation or close to it.
Desert Fox wrote:
> Makes sense to me. Pragmatism rules.
>
> I bet Autozone would order some if you persisted in inquiring.
>
> With all this war and such, I keep wondering why the obvious benefits
> of synthetic oils aren't brought to the forefront as a good way of
> decreasing our nation's dependency on foreign oil.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 10:42:33 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: FRAM filter question
Yes, data nearly 3 years old too.
On Thu, 20 Mar 2003, William J. Crabtree wrote:
- ---
**Now offering replacement
Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Porsche/SAAB/Volvo parts!**
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 09:50:29 -0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: FRAM filter question
I've put over 10,000 miles on a single oil change, going through 3 filters
in the process. Analysis showed that I could have continued to run it even
longer. But I, as all of us on this list, have a hard time going too far on an
oil change as I want to keep my car in tip top shape for many years to come -
the old "hard to teach old dog new tricks" mindset.
So what we really need is oil synthesized entirely in the lab from domestic
ingredients. I guess I should get busy inventing...
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 08:56:59 -0800
From: "James Mutton" <
james@playstream.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: FRAM filter question
And only a year-and-a-half ago before I found this web site, I found the
cure for my major top end valve noise on overnight starts (on my 3G Eclipse V6)
was replacing the Fram filter. Seems to me this data would be corroborated
as of 1.5 years ago. I've been using the K&N filter on my VR-4 for the
5 or 6 oil changes with great results.
Is there any evidence to dispute the findings besides age?
- -James
95 Green VR-4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 12:00:15 -0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: FRAM filter question
Not so much to dispute findings as to see if there is anything more
comparable at a lesser cost to the Mobil 1 filter...
Russ F
CT
------------------------------
Here are my thoughts on this: if there is no known performance/price
leader, then I will stick with Mobil1, Mitsu OEM, and other supposedly
high-quality filters. There is really no reason to try to save money by buying
cheap filters.
Here is my cost-benefit analysis:
If I run a car for 10 years and 200,000 miles and change my filters every
5,000 miles, I will spend $399.60 on Mobil1 filters. I could spend about $147.60
on cheap Fram filters instead. That would save me $252 dollars over these 10
years. If my car is still running great after 200,000 miles, I will be glad I
spent these $252 dollars. If it runs bad, then I won't feel happy that I saved
$252 by choosing Fram. My point is that car's performance and peace of mind over
the 10-year span is worth much more to me than $252. I think I will stick with
known quality filters as long as they are priced under $10. I think the best
value is to buy Mobil1 filters in bulk or buy OEM filters from our friendly
discount Mitsu dealers for a little over $5.
Phillip
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 13:05:11 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
NASA Pro Racing special offers: Discounted fees - Free track time
March22/23!
For California folks (or anyone within driving distance of Vegas), if
you're itching to get in some free track time, here's a great
opportunity... From a NASA mailer that just came in:
- -----------------------
Sign up for April 5/6 at Thunderhill or May
24/25 at Willow Springs and run Vegas for Free!!
When you sign up for either of the above events you will be allowed to
participate in the March 22/23 Las Vegas event for free. Just print out the
confirmation receipt that is emailed to you and show it at registration and you
will be allowed to run. It is that simple. We have a very low turnout in Vegas
this weekend and want to extend this special offer to our die hard supporters.
The weekend will also be some of the most track time you could ever wish for. If
you want inexpensive track time this is the way to do it. Take some time off to
enjoy this special offer and make mini vacation out of it!
-
----------------------
What's even better is that NASA has rolled back their HPDE prices to $286
for a weekend. And if 4 people sign up for ANY event, the 5th person is
FREE! If you spread out the freebie among the 5 people, that means that
each of you pays only $229 for the whole weekend.
We've already got a bunch of people signed up for the April 5/6 event, and
we expect even more, so we only need three more to sign up to get the $229 price
for all ten people! (You don't have to wait for other people to sign up -
NASA is very good about rebating right away). If you want to sign up for
it, contact me so we add you to the local list, and I'll contact NASA for us as
a group, and make sure the discounts are applied. I'll post the gathering
info separately...
Please reply privately..., OFF the list, or on the Team3S Racers
list...
- ---Forrest
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 16:11:17 -0500
From: Michael Tanenbaum <
gtg509d@mail.gatech.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: wiring harness
Hello all,
How are you? I cannot seem to get my car ('91 Stealth R/T) totally
straight -
I had a problem with the ECU which is now replaced with a
remanufactured one.
Then an error code pointing to the TPS was coming
up. I had the TPS replaced
and that didn't solve it completely.
The mechanic said maybe the harness that
plugs into is bad.
If you don't mind, I have two questions for you:
1) Does this diagnosis
sound reasonable?
2) Might anyone know where I can get a harness for this one
sensor and not the
whole car? It is a pig-tail type with four
horizontal pins in one row.
Thank you very much,
Michael
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 21:31:52 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: FRAM filter question
> Has anyone pulled apart a Mitsu OEM filter? I
> have had three
problems, all on different
> Mitsubishi cars?????!!!!! I switched to
Mobil
> 1. My two cents worth, John
What were the three problems?
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 13:33:37 -0800
From: John Sheehan <
johns@kyso.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: FRAM
filter question
bypass fail on two and a seam split on one. I have oil pressure gauges on
all my cars
>>Has anyone pulled apart a Mitsu OEM filter? I
>>have had
three problems, all on different
>>Mitsubishi cars?????!!!!! I
switched to Mobil
>>1. My two cents worth, John
>
>What
were the three problems?
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 13:49:30 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Automatic Transmission and FWD to AWD
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
> You
would have to purchase all the parts from Japan to do this type
of
conversion... The rear frame will need some modification as
well...
> The automatic tranny was offered with all-wheel-drive on a
non-turbo
> car over there. This will be extremely cost
prohibitive...
> -Cody
I received a request for CAPS from a non-member who *claims* to have
converted a manual FWD to AWD for $2500(!?!); he also said that now he was
planning to do it with an automatic, which is why he requested CAPS - to get
part numbers. I have no idea if it's true, nor any details...
- ---Forrest
------------------------------
>I received a request for CAPS from a non-member who *claims* to have
>converted a manual FWD to AWD for $2500(!?!); he also said that
now he
>was planning to do it with an automatic, which is why he
requested CAPS
>- to get part numbers.
I told you guys the other day where to get a complete 91 VR4 AWD with a
blown engine for $2500. That has all the parts you need, all neatly enclosed in
a red, white and blue steel package.
Rich/slow old poop>
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 19:05:52 -0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: FRAM filter question
How could you catch a failed bypass valve with an oil pressure gauge? Was
it in winter when it would not open? I do not believe you could catch it in
the summer. I try to catch things like that for living, so I am really
curious.
And what is a "seam split"?
Philip
At 04:33 PM 3/20/2003, John Sheehan wrote:
>bypass fail on two and a
seam split on one. I have oil pressure
>gauges on all my cars
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 20:18:02 -0800
From: "Richard L. Barron" <
radanc@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: Unused
parts for Sale
I have 2 Walbro 341 HP pumps for sale. Box is still unopened - purchased
from MVP Motorsports. Asking $150 to get rid of them.
Also have a TMO datalogger with software, never installed for sale. Asking
$200.
My car was totaled so I want to start selling stuff I have purchased and
never used.
Rich
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 21:36:37 -0800
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: Hub
centric spacers
FWIW --- someone on 3SI.org is selling a pair of H&R 25mm hub centric
spacers. That's what I use on the front of my 93 to increase front track --- I'm
pleased with
the way the car handles but have no way to attribute any of the
improved handling to the spacers. When I installed them I had done several other
mods. They do cause the front tires [ 255 40's ] to stick out of the wheel well
some so if looking cool is important you might want to pass.
These use the stock studs to bolt the spacer to the hub and the spacer has
another set of studs that the wheel bolts to, as a result you don't have to
replace your studs.
Jim Berry
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#109
***************************************